You got the water-pump fixings figured out, which is good. However, based on my experiences from about a decade ago, I would try to source good used water-pump studs. The originals are shorter on the housing end and longer on the pump side. The replacements I got from several vendors (again, about a decade ago) are of equal length on each side. This is a bit of a problem in all circumstances; however, the thickness of the bases on replacement water pumps varies quite a bit, and for the thicker ones the shorter studs are a serious problem--you'll never get a nut on them, especially with a lock washer. (I discuss this in a little bit of detail [with photos] in a segment of Episdoe 8 on my channel.) Anyway, I've been doing the exact same cleanup work on my GT6 water-pump housing, so your video is quite timely!
Thanks for the info! I saw that Rimmers had ones that were correct as you described. Ill be sure to look for that before I order. The ones I pulled out were going into the water channels impeding flow, so that clearly tells me they were wrong.
@@StevesProjectCarGarage If you get a chance, let me know what you get when you order studs. By my measurement, the studs should have 7/16" threads on the housing side and 11/16" threads on the pump side. Off the top of my head, I can't remember the exact vendors I tried, but the studs I received were about 7/16" on both sides. That's really too short for the water-pump side, especially given the thickness of some of the aftermarket water-pump bases. Keep up the good work!
Check where the weep hole is, bottom of the pump, for leaking after startup cause it's about 50/50 chance to leak from corrosion working its way into the seal faces while its been sitting. If it's leaking, just let it run, with the cap off so there's no pressure pushing coolant through the seal, for 5-15 minutes to let the seal faces cut through any corrosion and start doing their job of sealing again. If 15 minutes doesn't do it, then it's time for another one. The studs should be available at any good(not a chain) auto parts place, seen those big orange Dorman cabinets with all the drawers of different stuff, or just cut up a bolt, or get a long bolt from a starter, generator or those wooden spools that electrical supply houses throw out and cut your own threads on it!. Just crazy to order stuff like that unless you're in the middle of the desert & all ya got is camel dung..
Thankfully while the engine was stored I would spin it so fingers crossed there isnt much corrosion. But we will see! I tried ACE and two auto parts stores this weekend and came up empty handed. Ill just have to tac it onto another order or smalls. Im running out of things to order. LOL
I'm curious how you treated the main body between evaporust and paint - did you remove all the surface rust/flash rust? Primer?
I just used high temp rustoleum. Prior to paint though I did wipe it down with Prep All which allowed that surface rust to wipe right off.
Flying Dutchman in Oregon, if you want to upgrade. 6 vane prop.
Oh interesting! Ill keep that in mind. Thank you!
You got the water-pump fixings figured out, which is good. However, based on my experiences from about a decade ago, I would try to source good used water-pump studs. The originals are shorter on the housing end and longer on the pump side. The replacements I got from several vendors (again, about a decade ago) are of equal length on each side. This is a bit of a problem in all circumstances; however, the thickness of the bases on replacement water pumps varies quite a bit, and for the thicker ones the shorter studs are a serious problem--you'll never get a nut on them, especially with a lock washer. (I discuss this in a little bit of detail [with photos] in a segment of Episdoe 8 on my channel.)
Anyway, I've been doing the exact same cleanup work on my GT6 water-pump housing, so your video is quite timely!
Thanks for the info! I saw that Rimmers had ones that were correct as you described. Ill be sure to look for that before I order. The ones I pulled out were going into the water channels impeding flow, so that clearly tells me they were wrong.
@@StevesProjectCarGarage If you get a chance, let me know what you get when you order studs. By my measurement, the studs should have 7/16" threads on the housing side and 11/16" threads on the pump side. Off the top of my head, I can't remember the exact vendors I tried, but the studs I received were about 7/16" on both sides. That's really too short for the water-pump side, especially given the thickness of some of the aftermarket water-pump bases.
Keep up the good work!
Check where the weep hole is, bottom of the pump, for leaking after startup cause it's about 50/50 chance to leak from corrosion working its way into the seal faces while its been sitting. If it's leaking, just let it run, with the cap off so there's no pressure pushing coolant through the seal, for 5-15 minutes to let the seal faces cut through any corrosion and start doing their job of sealing again. If 15 minutes doesn't do it, then it's time for another one. The studs should be available at any good(not a chain) auto parts place, seen those big orange Dorman cabinets with all the drawers of different stuff, or just cut up a bolt, or get a long bolt from a starter, generator or those wooden spools that electrical supply houses throw out and cut your own threads on it!. Just crazy to order stuff like that unless you're in the middle of the desert & all ya got is camel dung..
Thankfully while the engine was stored I would spin it so fingers crossed there isnt much corrosion. But we will see!
I tried ACE and two auto parts stores this weekend and came up empty handed. Ill just have to tac it onto another order or smalls. Im running out of things to order. LOL