Anycubic Vyper Hotend Dissasembly/ Reassembly

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ม.ค. 2022
  • The single greatest cause of nozzle blockages, and especially repeated nozzle blockages, is from incorrectly installed bowden tubes. It is not enough to just shove these things in and hope for the best, there is a method you need to follow and this is it.
    I disassemble the hotend in this vid and show you how to correctly assemble and fit the bowden tube.
    I forgot to say how to rectify the issue of the nozzle tightening onto the heat block, but basically all you need do is with the nozzle loose, rotate the heat sync 1 turn to screw the heat brake in 1 turn and tighten the nozzle again, if still no gap back nozzle out and turn heat sink another turn until the nozzle locks onto the heatbreak not the block.
    Hopefully this will help you understand the hotend a bit better and stop you wasting money and resources on whole new hotends instead of just cleaning it and putting it back together.

ความคิดเห็น • 88

  • @jameslechner726
    @jameslechner726 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    I thought I knew these things pretty well but this was by far the best overview I've seen and learned a few things. Jolly good.

  • @penz-n-more
    @penz-n-more 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Thanks, Louise, you've expanded your audience. Your help in the group is invaluable, and these videos and the links to them perhaps will prevent you from having to repeat yourself so often. You've helped me immensely with issues that have come up with my Vyper. I read every one of your responses, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks Paul, it makes it all worthwhile knowing it helps someone :)

  • @monkeysnark7043
    @monkeysnark7043 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Just found this, and it's great! Totally new to 3D printers, and the Vyper, and I appreciate layman terminology and instructions. Too often content creators think we have eaten with, slept with, and coddled our printers for years, on the way they explain and show. I learn by example watching, and not by a quick mention and go read pages of text. This leaves so many unanswerable questions and 🥴 frustrated head scratching.
    Thank you for this and a much deserved like and subscriber! 👍
    Cheers

  • @marvwollam733
    @marvwollam733 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Nicely Done. I really could have used that a few days ago! LOL! Thank You for sharing your knowledge and taking time for all of us.

  • @Tommymang
    @Tommymang ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I have been 3D printing for more than 3 years... I learn every day ;-) Thanks mate!

    • @LouisePaisleyUK
      @LouisePaisleyUK ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Every day is a school day for all of us 😂

  • @fazekasistvan74
    @fazekasistvan74 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you very much for the highly professional and comprehensive tutorial!
    By far the best I have found on youtube.

  • @mariuspetcu7482
    @mariuspetcu7482 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank You, Thank You, Thank You - I have 5 years since I am working with 3D printers and Nobody Explained Why & How must be done this operation just by following those simple couple steps . Keep up mate, I am right behind you ... 🙂🤝👍

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  ปีที่แล้ว

      It became obvious to me how much information being shared is done so with no understanding why they do it, and a huge amount of it is just wrong.
      If someone tells you that you need to do something and cannot explain WHY then its just sheeple passing on imaginary fences..
      I try to offer an explanation, so people understand WHY they do things

  • @robertclaude5961
    @robertclaude5961 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hi, Just have some issue with me Vyper. Sometime my print feel ok for me sometime not. People says look at you calibrations (heat, filament size , length of 100mmm , Z offset , ETC... ) . I just change the tube by the blue one (call capricorn , everyone says It is the best I follow). But yesterday I print two parts at 220°c for Sunlu coffee PLA then nothing my printer was not able to push any filament even if I push with pronterface my heat to 240°C and I push manually on the filament. So this morning I decide to disassembly the hotend. The day pass I work on other bussiness to help my neighbor and now I check how to make this job. I find your video... I have only two words Thank a lot. I will try now tomorrow with more confidence on this job it is my first time to touch on hardaware of the printer. Really appreciate this video.

  • @RobertWCrouch
    @RobertWCrouch 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Cheers! This fixed the issue I was still having after cleaning and re-adjusting multiple times. Like another commenter, I didn’t have much if any gap after tightening. However the tube was down as far as I could get it (checking multiple times and marking estimated depth with a marker). It’s printing fine, but I’ll check after a few prints to confirm there’s no leakage.

  • @ekkosanchez6695
    @ekkosanchez6695 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I learned something new and the way he explained it was beautiful step by step

  • @OnTeamHumanity
    @OnTeamHumanity ปีที่แล้ว

    This video was a huge help. A million thank yous. I was confused on a few things you explained but as I made my way working on the printer, this helped me tremendously avoid miatakes and i only had to figire out a few things. Great video.

  • @rueben68
    @rueben68 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you for this very helpful video Louise. Looking forward to more content.

  • @YXRAYXY
    @YXRAYXY ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you very much for the video it helped me a lot. Greetings from Germany and stay healthy...

  • @ericbarker3850
    @ericbarker3850 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Why did I buy spare hotends? LOL. thank you that will save me a bit in the future. And I wanted to know how that all came apart. I have taken the nozzle out, and then the heat block became loose... first time thought I broke it all to heck.
    And what about those thermistor wires, eventually those will have to be replaced. becoming brittle and all.
    And I can tell you it never occurred to me to grab the block with the way you have instructed. I always put my adjustable end wrench on the other way, which could cause damage to the thermistor wires - oops! lucky so far!
    The good thing is I can learn! the better thing is you are willing to teach!

  • @kppolich
    @kppolich ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you for taking the time to document this and upload.

  • @einfachluk
    @einfachluk ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you VERY much for this great video. After a while I got back to my printer and wanted to start to optimise some things on it and during a print i saw "hey theres not enough plastic coming out the nozzle" so i knew that things clogged. So off i went to the internet googling what might be the problem. I knew that I pulled out the bowdentube when decided to disassemble the printing head. Luckily i found your video on how to install it properly again, because im pretty sure that the incorrect installment of the bowdentube is the problem.

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  ปีที่แล้ว

      You are very welcome, glad it helped you out

  • @lyledonauer3934
    @lyledonauer3934 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you very informative you are right there is not a lot of content on you tube about the Viper and I just got mine and still learning 😀 😊 🙂 👍

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I will try to build up a useful library of bits for you all.. if theres any requests shout out :)

  • @richardalonzo2879
    @richardalonzo2879 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Thank you for this amazing video and the invaluable information ! Anycubic should cut you checks for this information which they do not provide . I'm hooked on your videos ...Thank you again !!

  • @TheSkyHive
    @TheSkyHive ปีที่แล้ว

    I would like to graciously thank you for this my friend! Really amazing help!

  • @kristerlundmark1089
    @kristerlundmark1089 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the great tutorial!

  • @moodberry
    @moodberry 2 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Brilliantly explained! But I have a question. There is a strain gauge at the top. When I autolevel my Vyper, the first two autolevel probers work fine. But when it gets to the third probe, it smashes down on the bed. Many have told me that the strain gauge is bad, but if it were bad, why would it work for the first two and always quit on the third? I don't want to buy another gauge and just "maybe" have it work, when it might be something wrong with the hot end or even something else. Can anyone give me a clue what might be wrong, or is it the strain gauge for sure. And if so, please explain how it could work twice and always fail on the third?

  • @RenatoT66
    @RenatoT66 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    First of all, thank you for the video. I didn't actually understand how to fix the radiator, which, in order to be aligned with the holes relative to the hot end, needs to be unscrewed by about ten degrees. Once the Teflon tube is inserted and the nozzle is closed, the missing part of the radiator is still soft and rotates, causing the plastic to come out from the top of the hot end.

  • @TBL_stevennelson
    @TBL_stevennelson ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I takes longer than 5 minutes but it's a skill people do need to learn.
    Having extra if your time is limited or very New to this Hobby and DIY, ETC Having a replacement or 2 is great and maybe after.cleaning your used one you would think about having one with a 0.6 or whatever other size you use. Then just switch them when needed. Tips do go bad not all tip are the same great Quality even within the same batch.
    If your having issues with first layers or bad looking walls it could be the tip if your changing the tip for that reason cleaning out the whole thing might be a time issue.
    I think he did a great video showing what your goal is and how to so I hope you all do well and if you have a Vyper and have some knowledge you want to share we do need more videos on youtube. There's just not enough for how good these printers are and popular they really are. I would also like to see people mod them with useful stuff.
    Most of all replacement hotends that are all metal and can reach higher Temps.

  • @hydroturd
    @hydroturd 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    thanks a bunch for these ! Learned a lot

  • @mr.guakacado970
    @mr.guakacado970 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Great video
    One question
    When pushing the ptfe tube through to clean, is the hotend heated up or cold?

  • @DanielMigneault
    @DanielMigneault ปีที่แล้ว

    So glad i found that video, thank you.

  • @popcuka6174
    @popcuka6174 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    that's very helpful, thank you

  • @luggles72
    @luggles72 ปีที่แล้ว

    thank you for the video. i have changed my hotend on my viper and all of the sudden my temp shoots up to 700 degrees instantly. can't get it to go down. any idea what i may have done wrong?

  • @heavingdown8229
    @heavingdown8229 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Brilliant, thank you!

  • @monkeysnark7043
    @monkeysnark7043 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Howdy. Just a thought can one change the heatbreak to a all metal one so there is no Bowden tube to deal with? Also, just wondering what after market hotend assembly that is better then the stock one can purchase? After watching other creative content, there seems to be a variety but few discuss this printer. I am not knowledgeable enough to figure this on my own.
    Thanks and regards

    • @hydroturd
      @hydroturd 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

      not sure if you're still printing, but yes you can change the heatbreak (search for E3D heatbreaks). It's not necessary if you are just printing with PLA filament though (200C or lower)

  • @KiMi_KaL
    @KiMi_KaL 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you, very useful 👌

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      woa, how on earth!!!
      its a brand new channel, and first upload is not even fully processed!!! How on earth did you find it LOLOLOL
      Thats amazing LOL

  • @luckynat299
    @luckynat299 ปีที่แล้ว

    Fantastic video thank you

  • @user-pd1zm4vw2c
    @user-pd1zm4vw2c ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks! Came useful.

  • @Poulpc
    @Poulpc ปีที่แล้ว

    Super video, thank you

  • @Hrn19
    @Hrn19 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks brother.🙏

  • @paindavoine_design
    @paindavoine_design 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Very instructive !

  • @eddiezj
    @eddiezj 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    the hotend block moved about 45 degrees when I was changing the nozzle (first time). I used pliers to move it back. Not sure if I broke it?

  • @w7-derbrettspielkanal178
    @w7-derbrettspielkanal178 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hey ho, thanks for the video.
    CUrrently I found different explanations about the bowden tube.
    Some telling, the nozzle and the Heatbreak should fit together, without the bowden tube between, you mention, that I should apply the hotend, then the nozzle and into the gap the bowden.
    Is both possible ? I am confused but very new to the 3d Printer topic.
    Thanks.

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  ปีที่แล้ว

      Some people advise backing out the bowden connector at the top of the heatsync and screwing nozzle in fully then fit bowden and tighten connector..
      Imo this tends to damage the bowden when the connector it tightened and is an inferior method..
      Backing out the nozzle, fitting the bowden, then tightening the nozzle fully gives the best compression of the bowden and seal onto the nozzle, in my experience it is the most effective method by far

  • @user-gn5cc9ow8q
    @user-gn5cc9ow8q 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hey. I had to clean my hotend. I did it but the PTFE tube was burned and stuck into it. So I heated up with lighter and cleaned it. But i somehow inhaled accidentally fumes from that. Should I be concerned about something?

  • @sjorlando7282
    @sjorlando7282 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    If the nozzle is slightly lower than the original will that affect bed levelling? Or will it compensate and adjust ?

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It should not make any difference to the level, as in the points tested, but it will make a difference to the z offset..

  • @wtf-og
    @wtf-og 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    thank you so much :-*

  • @toxicculture4682
    @toxicculture4682 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    thanks so much

  • @BreganAufKargath
    @BreganAufKargath ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice Video!

  • @R3dprinting
    @R3dprinting 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    i did exatly what you did but i have no gap

  • @tdantv1
    @tdantv1 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks by rhe way you think that tutorial works for a anycubic mega s ? I apreciate to share the información

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes.. it sure does.. in fact most ptfe lined hotends are the same principal if its the bowden that runs down to the nozzle..
      Some have a separate ptfe lineing tube but not many..

  • @nathunterstudio8391
    @nathunterstudio8391 ปีที่แล้ว

    hello , good tuto, i got my head print dead cuz seem pla are melted away inside..so i put a new one and stupid question , when you remove the cable tie lie , we dont need to put a new one like the video Anycubic ? on not neccessary? sorry im just affraid to dont destroy my 3d printer

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      You can fit a new tie, or better still you can print a bowden connector clip that fits in it and works better..
      www.thingiverse.com/thing:5229023

    • @BAB520AZ
      @BAB520AZ ปีที่แล้ว

      the cable tie acts as a lock to prevent the bowden tube from backing off the tight connection to the tip.

  • @lanesteele240
    @lanesteele240 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    What thermistor do i buy for this head. Yeah. I messed up the wire on mine.

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      they are not as easy to get plug in replacements.. I think the chiron etc are all the same..
      its the same as a Creality ender/ cr thermistor but has a shorter lead and jst connector, but you can easily cut the wires on the old one and splice a creality on on after cutting back the cable, just nmake sure to properly insulate the joints with heat shrink or insulation tape.. the two wires can connect in any order, it has no polarity

    • @Robotg295
      @Robotg295 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      For mine I bought an NTC3950

  • @pwal8468
    @pwal8468 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi. Great video. I just went through this because of black bits in my prints and thought I would pass along the things I found. I couldn't get the Bowden tube out of the heat sink, so had to take it all apart. Basically like your video. I found that the end of the Bowden tube seemed partly melted; the bottom 10mm got smaller towards the end and old PLA had worked its way up between the tube and the heat sink and was a mess that was stopping me from removing the tube. Anyways, I got that all cleaned up, cut off the weird end of the tube, and it seems to be working fine. This is leading up to a question... could this be a symptom of cheap Bowden tubing in the machine? Is there a better quality tube that you would recommend? Thanks again. Paul

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  ปีที่แล้ว +4

      The stock bowden is piss poor.. capricorn xs is the gold standard and i always switch to it.
      However, be careful where you buy as there is fake on marketplaces like ebay and amazon..
      The stock tube is actually glued in, so even brand new its difficult to remove, its unlikely it was the heat damage that made it hard to extract.
      Cap xs is more heat resistant than stock, unless you are exceeding 250, 260 degrees it will last a good long time without trimming back.
      If you switch, i would make the cap 30 to 50mm longer than stock, then you will be able to trim back 10mm prob 5 to 8 times before having to replace it which at normal temps and nin abrasive filaments, it will prob last the life of the printer.

  • @CdrCARN
    @CdrCARN ปีที่แล้ว

    Thankyou

  • @AlexPlaysVideoGamez
    @AlexPlaysVideoGamez 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    My thermistor wires keep breaking away from the heatblock. I've gone through 3 or 4 hotends already. The wires seem to degrade with heat and motion.
    I was thinking of getting some heat resistant epoxy and sealing the thermistor wires in place, could that potentially work?

    • @LouisePaisleyUK
      @LouisePaisleyUK 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Not sure why that is happening, i have had no issue like that or heard of it either

    • @user-nq2cl1dn5e
      @user-nq2cl1dn5e 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Same issue. What could I use to seal these in? Absolute trash connection. Trying to pry them loose from the connectors was a nightmare as well.

    • @LouisePaisleyUK
      @LouisePaisleyUK 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@user-nq2cl1dn5e there should be no need to seal them..
      On the vyper, older versions, there is a wee screw next to the hole the therm goes in, that screw should be LIGHTLY tightened onto the wires to hold it in place.
      On kobra max or new hotends the thermistor is metal clad ina wee tube and is held in by a grub screw, again this should only need light tightening and the thermistor should be fully inserted so the screw contacts the metal case..
      The connectors on the board are somewhat shite and the plastic can pull off the board pins, a bit of hot glue on the side if the connector and the board should hold the socket on the board and then there should be no issue just plugging in the therm.
      There should be virtually no movement of the therm wires because the whole print head and everything moves together so its highly unlikely tht movement is contributing

    • @user-nq2cl1dn5e
      @user-nq2cl1dn5e 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Thanks, was referring to the connector on the wires that plugs into the board. Also yes, the plastic bits do come off the pins very easily but the wires connecting into the male connector bit that goes into the female plastic bit on the board is the one where the wires are completely loose. Thanks for the advice with some glue.
      @@LouisePaisleyUK

    • @LouisePaisleyUK
      @LouisePaisleyUK 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@user-nq2cl1dn5e gotcha.. you can use the same method and fix the wires into the plug with a dab of hotglue or epoxy.. just be carefull to not get it on outside of plug obviously and make sure wires are prooerly in place first

  • @badgrendels
    @badgrendels ปีที่แล้ว

    A very helpful video

  • @spanierjuan
    @spanierjuan 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    weil explained, Remember the People to relevel

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Well, actually theres no need to re-level.. but the z offset will def need checking! Good catch :)

  • @dcbloomer
    @dcbloomer 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Another solution for the blockage problem is a genuine Slice Engineering Copperhead Bimetallic Heat Break, then you could push the heat higher to

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Opinions vary regarding all metal..
      I dont doubt the genuine e3d one is good, but PTFE lined is still the best option for low temp, and if fitted correctly (which is ver often NOT the case and the purpose of the vid) pretty trouble free.
      If you are going to go that route then I would not cheap out on a clone because you are likely going from bad to worse.

  • @danitestsstuff3921
    @danitestsstuff3921 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Everything looked easy till I realized it has to be done while the nozzle is heated

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  ปีที่แล้ว

      Removing nozzles always has to be done heated... and of course to push out any burnt crud

    • @danitestsstuff3921
      @danitestsstuff3921 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Just3DPrinting I'm not that confident I can navigate all those things while the nozzle is heated, I might need a video of how to avoid burning myself doing it.

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@danitestsstuff3921 it is only the heat block and nozzle which gets hot, the heat sink, round bit, stays cold

    • @Just3DPrinting
      @Just3DPrinting  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@danitestsstuff3921 for cleaning ut the hotend, changing nozzles, reseating the bowden you dont need to split the heat block/ heat break/ heat sink..
      You just remove the nozzle, and bowden tube, the rest stays as is..
      I only split it down to demonstrate the internals and how it DOES come apart, ordinarily you dont need to take it apart

  • @krauselee877
    @krauselee877 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    What a shit design. Spending hours trying to fix this shit. Thanks for the vid tho

    • @philipp6682
      @philipp6682 ปีที่แล้ว

      my bowden tube is stuck to the heatbreak, everywhere petg xD what a shit mess on a new vyper

  • @bitbizsydney7463
    @bitbizsydney7463 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hi, PLEASE DONT THROW YOUR TOOLS DOWN ON MICROPHONE ON YOUR NEXT VIDEO. thanks

    • @LouisePaisleyUK
      @LouisePaisleyUK 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Learn how to use capitals and stop asking me to not do things i have not done to start with.
      'If you have nothing good to say, say nothing' is a phrase you should keep in mind.