3d printer enclosure with Si7021 temperature control fan exhaust for Prusa mk3s with raspberry pi

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ธ.ค. 2020
  • Remember that a CPU fan should not have more than 12v supplied to it and most fans cannot handle more than 300mA without burning out. If you are not sure how to measure those then make sure you use a standalone fan with a built in power supply that handles that voltage regulation for you.
    0:32 - IR remote control - The one shown is not the one I am using, mine has a custom setup so I can run the sensor lead up to the top of the printer.
    4:44 - Relay setup for mains power control of the fan using the raspberry pi
    5:46 - Si7021 temperature sensor wiring setup
    8:20 - Code
    3d print files
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:286...
    blog.prusaprinters.org/mmu2s-...
    Temperature display
    www.adafruit.com/product/576 (wire this up to a 5v usb cable)
    Si7021
    www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adafruit-S...
    Instructions - learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-s...
    Raspberry pi zero
    www.raspberrypi.org/products/...
    Relay
    www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Relay-Modu...
    Johnny five - johnny-five.io/
    If you found this useful and want to show some appreciation you can buy me a coffee - www.buymeacoffee.com/dirkteucher

ความคิดเห็น • 17

  • @JeremyRoberts007
    @JeremyRoberts007 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Thanks for the build walkthrough.

  • @DirkTeucher
    @DirkTeucher  3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    TLDR
    0:32 - IR remote control - The one shown is not the one I am using, mine has a custom setup so I can run the sensor lead up to the top of the printer.
    4:44 - Relay setup for mains power control of the fan using the raspberry pi
    5:46 - Si7021 temperature sensor wiring setup
    8:20 - Code

  • @Plastiny
    @Plastiny 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Your video is awesome!
    It's interesting how you edited the video to show the 360 of the parts.
    Can you tell me how? Or what app you use?

    • @DirkTeucher
      @DirkTeucher  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thank you! I used blender 2.90 which you can get here for free www.blender.org/ it is an incredible 3d program and you can start to learn how to do what I did in this video here th-cam.com/video/bpvh-9H8S1g/w-d-xo.html (for the most part). I had to render out a png sequence with an alpha and import that into davinci resolve 17 which you can also get totally free for non commercial videos - www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/ ... EDIT - Oh and I recorded the audio on my phone and edited the video around that.

    • @Plastiny
      @Plastiny 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@DirkTeucher Thank you very much :D

  • @bfkmnemonic
    @bfkmnemonic 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    The relay seems complete overkill. You could just have used a mosfet and a capacitor. Then you could control the speed with a PWM signal.

    • @DirkTeucher
      @DirkTeucher  3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Ha Absolutely, I could have also just wired up a switch or a pot and turned it on manually each time without a PI but this was all just a bit of fun for me and this is definitely overkill. Just put a fan in and switch it on at the plug ... it does the same thing if you get the size of the intake right :D
      And by overkill do you mean there is no need for the PI?
      I am using the PI to talk to Octoprint so I can monitor the print progress with a webcam while I am downstairs and I thought why not hook it up to a fan at the same time. Yep, definitely overkill.
      Otherwise if you meant the relay was overkill then to me it's easier than using a mosfet and a capacitor.... Its just 0 and 1 and takes 2 minutes to wire up and I don't need or want PWM. My guess is that you would want PWM and you obviously can't get that with a relay unless you enjoy the sound of clicking :D

  • @prashkd7684
    @prashkd7684 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    These plexiglass enclosure look really cool however when I started my enclosure built I faced two key challenges:
    1. Plexiglass is far more expensive (almost 5 time) then a piece of plywood (or MDF) of same size.
    2. The key purpose of this enclosure if to maintain high (approx 100 degrees) temperatures inside the enclosure. While Plexiglass can tolerate such temperatures, they do tend to disfigure and discolour over a period of time.
    So now I have one ugly looking wooden enclosure but functionally its perfect. If only I had better woodworking skills !

    • @DirkTeucher
      @DirkTeucher  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yeah totally and if I had to rebuild it again I would probably make 3 of the sides our of wood and just have the front panels as plexi to be able to glance over at it from my desk to see how its going. Its working pretty sweet as it is now in any case :D

  • @pintail120
    @pintail120 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I assume this enclosure won’t accommodate ABS ?

    • @DirkTeucher
      @DirkTeucher  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I have to turn the fan up to max with ABS to get rid of most of the odors and it does do a pretty good job of evacuating the gases as I can hardly smell it when printing, however I CAN smell it and this enclosure is not completely air tight, so it depends on what level of safety you are comfortable with.
      I always leave the room when ABS is printing and have the windows open even though I can barely smell anything. But in short, this enclosure is better than no enclosure but no this enclosure is not of an industrial quality so some of the gas will escape into the room unless you improve the design somehow. You could tape up the gaps between the panels and the tables to improve the seal pretty easily and that way the doors would be the only place where fresh air was sucked into the enclosure and it would improve it quite a bit I would imagine but if you did a lot of printing with ABS I would definitely get a bigger fan and outlet pipe. It does not bother me enough to do that as I rarely print with ABS.

    • @pintail120
      @pintail120 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@DirkTeucher what I meant to ask was: if you are constantly disposing of fumes, how do you keep the temperature at a minimum of 35C in the cabinet? ABS would heavily warp should the temperature be in the 20's in your cab ?
      To print ABS, ideally your cab is totaly sealed and all the heat and air is kept inside to maintain temperature

    • @DirkTeucher
      @DirkTeucher  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      ​ @Gavin Beverley Oh I see what you mean now ... I have complete control of the temperature with the sensor 5:46 . So can program in whatever temperature I want the fan to start. I currently have it set to keep a 30c air temperature for printing PLA. If it gets to 29C the fan switches off.

    • @DirkTeucher
      @DirkTeucher  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@pintail120 This is the code that controls when the fan switches on or off 8:33

  • @sidneyott1719
    @sidneyott1719 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Too much spinning

  • @aether3885
    @aether3885 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    As someone who just got their first 3D printer, is trying to build a similar enclosure setup, and is a noob with electronics, linux, python and 3D printing, this is immensely helpful, thanks. I don't have a way to set up an outtake vent leading outside, so I'm just going to use this filter / fan enclosure design to pump the air out into carbon and HEPA filters:
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:4746033
    Wasn't sure how to go about hooking it up to a pi, monitoring the temperature, and controlling the fan accordingly, so yeah - very helpful. The IR receiver is another great idea that I'm definitely going to take advantage of. The room I'll have it in is also my living / home theater room, and I have a smart wifi controlled IR blaster that will be in sight of the printer, so that'll allow me to control it with voice commands. Another task list for my endless rabbit hole of a to-do list lol... Can't wait for the finished product.
    Where does the air intake come from btw? Just cracks around the enclosure edges? I'm also going to be building it with stacked lack tables like you did, but I think I'm only going to have the front panel (and maybe also the side panel) acrylic, and use hardboard for the rest to save money, make sealing it and mounting stuff a little easier, and because I'll also have a camera inside the thing monitoring it with octoprint.
    Curious if you're able to print ABS in here, does it stay warm enough without the PSU's heat and the outtake vent going out the top? If you turn the fan off I imagine you'd have ABS fumes leaking out the sides, so I might need to use filtered intake vents if I'm planning on printing ABS

    • @DirkTeucher
      @DirkTeucher  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Nice. I hope you manage to get enough airflow through the filter as it gets pretty toasty in the enclosure . And yes the intake is just from the gaps between the acrylic panels and the table.
      This setup prints ABS perfectly fine and I cannot smell a thing but the fan is always on. If i turned it off it would definitely stick up the room and the prints might fail as it gets really hot in there the longer the print without a fan on.
      I am glad this video was of some help to you, it sounds like you have your hands full with that project and hopefully this video shaved off a few hours of time for you :D