Just installed this at my home after months of issues with MyQ HACS integration not working. This was my first endeavor with EspHome and was definitely a learning curve. Completed installation today and got automatons with HA working beautifully. Thank you for your great contribution with this video and documentation.
Noticed MyQ was down for me many hours last week. Of course during one of the few times I've needed to see remotely the status of the door via HA. Thanks for pushing me to finally go local with the overhead doors.
@@digiblurDIY Getting ready to use your setup. One function I'd like to add is detection of a vehicle that is too close to the closing door, from the inside anyway, to prevent another way my wife can ding the vehicle. The stock transmitter and receiver are recommended to be placed down low where a small child could set it off. This can allow the trunk or bed overhang of a vehicle to be in the path of the door, but the wheel not in the sensor's view. With the newer Chamberlain/Liftmaster doors you can't simply add another set of their sensors up higher. Did I hear you will be playing with sonic sensors with ESP32? Thx
Yes. Checking out a few sensors for car detection. Haven't decided what I want to use just yet. This was one reason I went with the esp32 and not two simple Shelly1 devices. I do believe there is a code required for the doors and the height of the sensor. We had to send pictures of the sensors to the homeowners insurance of them installed.
Man i love your vids. You explain concepts in a way that is so easy to follow. You have a gift! Second gizmo i have made with your education. I have used this to smarten up a motorized projector screen and it works perfectly!
I think you're about to get a lot of interest in this as a way to open the garage doors without going through MyQ as you've probably heard they're locking out 'non authorized' integrations from the myq api. This allows us tinkerers to have local control with the ability to go back to "stock" if we ever sell the house. Personally I think it's a winner! I'll be using one of my spare remotes for this. Thanks for posting.
Yep especially for ratgdo being out of stock. They have come a long way with the design since I did this one as I did look at them but they required soldering to the opener at the time which I couldn't do with being under warranty.
Thanks for helping with the layout! I went back and forth with several solutions but once I saw the remote was 3.3V capable and this was the perfect isolation to be able to throw this box anywhere without touching the openers themselves.
Just completed this build and works great! Chose this over the RATGDO solution for a few reasons. 1) I liked that this didn't require wiring anything into the existing system. 2) Cost. I was able to automate both my garage doors for under $40(is it weird that the project box was the most expensive part. I used reed switches from Ali express 3) Availability Looks like the RATGDO boards are on backorder. 4) I got to use a soldering Iion! I used 3 pin connectors for the reed switches so I could bench test everything easily (clipped the green wire). It also saved me from having to dink around with the connections while the box was mounted to my ceiling. Thanks for all you do!
At the time for me Ratgdo was solder only and then I needed two so I opted for this method since it was purely isolated and I could really locate it anywhere in the house I wanted. I did opt for the project box to add additional sensors though. Keeping that warranty intact was key for my setup.
This is a very solid build, but for those looking for an easy solution, I discovered a much simpler approach. The key simplification is that you don't need a relay at all. In fact, if you only have a single gate to control, you don't even need multiple wire pairs -- you can perma-short the remote button, and use the digital pins on an ESP (or Raspberry) to briefly apply _power_ to the remote (instead of a battery). These remotes use so little power that digital pins can power them without issues. If a wired position sensor is not an option, one can use the _wattage_ readout from the smart outlet controlling the gate opener to detect if the command has been received. Combined with a Z-wave tilt sensor, it's a pretty reliable setup.
I have been pouring over the internet for someone who has figured out a low cost solution like this! Do you think it is possible to augment the remote mounted on my wall (be it wired or wireless, have not looked) with an esp8266 in the same way? Sort of simulating a button press using the digital lines?
@@copperthedergy My solution was an Wemos D1 Mini ESP8266 and the D1 Mini Relay Shield. Might not need the relay, but i like hearing the click....lol and it was cheap. I did mine in Home Assistant so I had access to ESP Home which made it really easy to code it.
love this solution. great walkthrough too. thanks for helping to educate consumers on the dangers of using equipment that is cloud dependant that doesn't have a local API
Nice work mate. My garage door has an AUX pin for a manual momentary button. I connected a Shelly uni and use there firmware with a one second auto off. Works great and I use one of my ESP-NOW door sensors to tell me if the door is open or closed. I can open / close it from Home Assistant, I don’t use it much for opening. I have a bad habit of leaving home with the door open, node-red sends me an SMS if the door has been open for longer than x minutes. Grate work, thanks for the video
My dumb Garage door opener was made smart. I modified a Sonoff Basic, Isolating the relay contacts so I had "Dry Contacts". Then with the Wired door open button that comes with the garage door opener, I wired the Sonoff relay contacts to the button contacts. Works Flawlessly.
lol - I did something very similar a few years ago but I use a HC-SR04 sensor instead. I did however leave the battery in the remote board that esp32 triggers, but I really like your idea of using power from the esp32 board instead - will need to make that change before my battery dies!
I did test the amperage draw from the board while the button was being pushed. Boring part of the footage.. it was using 0.008A at 3.3V when holding the button on the remote down. I knew the ESP32 dev board would laugh at that power draw.
Great video, I was about to do almost exact same thing i.e. tapping to Garage Remote with ESP8266/ESP32. I am actually planning to tap to the wall mount remote instead that has more functionality(timer, status led, light), so instead of only open/close you can also set/re-set/disable auto-close timer, control light and as bonus you can read voltage of the status LED to know if door is blocked(led rapidly blinks) May be too many thing, but should not be much more work then what you already done. BTW, I had a quick measure on the wall unit buttons voltage and it was 3v, so it might be possible to direct wire pins from espp to the buttons, i.e. no need for relay, but need to remeasure this thoroughly first, or simply use relays. Thanks for the video, great work please keep it up.
I'm a garage door installer, first the beeping of the opener is a building code thing, off site remote operation of the unit requires not only the safety sensors and the force settings to be set properly like with using the remotes but also requires a additional audible and visual alert. Won't be a issue as long as there isn't a accident, I say it's your house, do what you want, just a contractor can't set it up that way. We use to carry liftmaster but recently changed to Genie due to call back and warranty issues after the 2021 models that have the updated firmware due to the lawsuit with Genie. As a diy motor I still recommend chamberlain (LiftMaster product) over the non pro Genie units, the build quality is better however I recommend getting a contractor to install a pro Genie.
I get it is a code thing for sure. Someone didn't think it all the way through which is a good thing. The first day I had them installed, I was next door and the opener was in my pocket. I mashed the button about 5 or 6 times, no beeps and I couldn't physically see the door either. What's a good opener that still is old school? Meaning the simple button contact style.
Great video describing your DIY solution! I use a 819LMB MyQ HomeKit bridge and Home Assistant can talk directly to it using HomeKit protocol - basically bypassing the cloud to get to my Liftmaster. You’re solution seems cooler though!
Very nice build, i will use it for inspiration on my garage :) I would put two extra relays on the ESP and have it turn on/off the power instead of the smartplugs. Less standby usage.
I still don't get that beeping noise thing where it only comes from the app. First day I had them installed, I had the remote in my pocket across the street. I hit the button a few times on accident without visual contact of the door and no beeping required there. I guess I need to be quiet before they enable that on all closings...doh!
My reeds are just shy of the ragged edge of picking up when the doors are closed. The other set is wired to the alarm panel. Boils down to personal preference I guess. I like the smart switch on the power cord. I've been looking into options for mechanically locking the doors via the slot in the rails and having the power dead makes me feel better doing that. 👍 One thing I need to do is set the relay to pulse instead of using HA to reset the contact.
I have my other door in my alarm panel but is a manual style door for mainly storage of junk and the push mower. The smart plug isn't as secure as the door lock but pretty simple for my setup.
Did the exact same thing. Actually you can’t just Hotwire the new MyQ. The wall buttons are smart and send a digital signal to the main unit. So that’s why I used a powered remote like you did.
They do have $10 additional wall button you can use as well but since I needed two and wanted to "air gap" things electronically I went with this method. Works out great as I've been using it for weeks.
@@digiblurDIY I do have very rare times when the 500ms relay click is heard but the remote won’t trigger. Never figured it out. Does that mean ever happen to you?
I haven't had that issue yet. Only time I had it not work was when the motor went into protect mode from mashing the button over and over too many times. OG had a little too much fun helping with b roll clips.
Travis, Great part 2 to your your part 1 video. Thanks for sharing your tips/tricks/techniques (e.g. eliminating the 3V coin cell) for the project. Can't wait to see your solution for car presence. Have you considered using Time Of Flight (TOF) sensors for measuring distance. You could tell if your car is parked in the garage, or not (based on the distance from the sensor to the roof of your car. Thanks again! 🙂
You could've just run two wires to the screw on terminals where the button on the wall connects to the garage door opener instead if using an old remote. Most garage door openers are triggered if those terminals are just momentarily closed. The trick is to have some mechanism for detecting when the door is closed. Most garage door automation devices mounts a permanent magnet on the door and position a hall effect switch to be next to it when the door is closed, the Wyze adapter puts a QR-2 code sticker on the door and aim a camera at where it would be when closed. Presumbly a simple "electric eye" could be done with a bicycle reflector mounted on the door.
@@digiblurDIY The button on the wall must be connected somehow. As you have a numeric key pad on the outside, I can see that it may be a serial link between it and a controller just to avoid allowing hot wiring the numeric panel but if so, you could just tap into the serial link with a pass through, indeed that's how Appletalk did it for local area networks. It would still be worthwhile to imitate the hardwire link instead of using a remote and if it is a serial data link, there are ways of doing it though granted most people have forgotten all the serial link tricks of the past (note elevators used to be all connected together by such pass through serial links). However, I guess even the commercial garage door opener adapter units all have mimicking a remote garage door opener as a backup to the hard wire so it isn't a bad choice, just not a preferable choice. Note, the test that the commercial smart home adapters give you to see if the hardwire is a contact switch instead of a keypad data link is to short the screw on terminals together with the points of a needle nose pliers and see if the door activates.
@@digiblurDIY Uhh, what do you think a serial link is, you know Rs-232, RS-422, etc... Even AppleTalk is a serial link. Technically USB and PCI are serial links, even ethernet is technically a serial link.
I believe the Liftmaster/chamberlain multi-button wall openers do NOT send a digital serial signal. Each button on the opener just puts a different resistance across the two wires, in a voltage divider circuit. The opener detects the voltage to determine what it is supposed to do. The main door open/close button puts a direct short across the two wires, just like a “doorbell” button will do. So wiring to and old remote was not necessary.
I really appreciated the video but why go with LiftMaster in the first place as the garage door system? I'll eventually need to replace my garage door system and I am sure I won't go with a LiftMaster because of all the horror stories around MyQ. Probably will look into Genie.
For me, it was just what I bought, didn’t do my research ahead of time, and I regret that, but it was decent cost wise and other than this and one other issue, it’s been great. When my garage was being built onto my house, and after the opener was installed, at least 4 different times, hammering nails somewhat close to the opener, within 10 feet or so caused the opener to trigger and without any of its limits, it actually bent the rod clear up until it damaged the drywall on the ceiling, and destroyed the door itself making it be replaced, and with the battery backup, simply unplugging it didn’t stop the damage. I purposely hammered near it very hard and was able to reproduce the issue one time, don’t know what the contractor did to make it happen 4 times, and I have to admit I didn’t really believe him even though he covered all the damage voluntarily, until I did finally see it happen. So now that I typed all this, it wasn’t such a good deal after all lol.
Most of us inherit what comes with the home. Unluckily 99% of professional installers in my area only stick to Liftmaster/Chamberlin openers. So you get stuck with limited options unless you DIY it yourself.
This was all they were installing in my area as well. I waited for a bit on some older openers on backorder but due to scheduling and such we didn't want to wait any longer. They were very confused on why I didn't want the "app thing". I'm sure myQ is waiting to pounce on some premium features for a monthly bill. Lock you in type thing.
Oh god, please don’t go to Genie if Wi-Fi capabilities are important to you. I own a garage door installation/repair company and Genie is significantly more frustrating to program. Just dive into the reviews between the two apps in the App Store, both 5 stars but when you take a closer look at the reviews on Aladdin Connect you see several more bad reviews. For a good while, Aladdin Connect sat at 2 stars but I’ll admit they’ve made small strides to make it better but the UI for MyQ is more fleshed out and simpler. Aladdin Connect is slower too. I’m not sure why this person’s MyQ is so slow, mine works instantaneously despite my router being on the 3rd floor of my apartment and my garage door being below on the ground floor. I’ve had customers that have had bad Wi-Fi coverage in the garage and it still takes less than 10 seconds to open (which is still a lot but nowhere near this slow). That issue we can remedy by just adding in a Wi-Fi booster for $50 or less and not only will that alleviate the garage problem and significantly easier but fill in the dead spot in your house. I do have to say that if you are technical enough to go this method it would work wonderfully but for the average person, they’re not going to attempt this. Also MyQ’s server’s will go down every now and then but it’s only happened to me twice in the last 2.5 years.
Thanks for your video; it is an example of what people can do if they think outside the box. My issue, before seeing your approach, is that the MyQ solution for automation is far from complete. For example: You set up MyQ to automatically close the door at a certain time so you don't leave the garage door open overnight. Now, you come home from shopping and open the rear gate on a minivan, which goes through the path of the garage door. You go inside and forget that you left the rear gate open. Instead of providing a notification that your garage door is open, MyQ closes the garage door automatically. You inadvertently left the back door of the minivan in the path of the garage door. When the garage door comes down, it is going to strike the car door, damaging it... severely! There are no options in MyQ to send you a notification, instead of closing the garage door. With your solution, I can see that an additional extension of the software can be implemented to check the status of the door (open or closed) and, instead of automatically closing the door, it can notify you (via several routes) that the door is open when the desired state is closed. Your action at that point can be to close the door, check on the status of the doorway, or ignore it... YOUR CHOICE. Thanks, again, for the ideas...
Indeed. Local and flexible is the way. Something like this is prefect for an actionable notification in Home Assistant. "Hey dummy, you left the garage open again! Close it for you?" I love the nice personable notifications to myself like that ;)
I can verify that solution works well. I made a similar garage door opener and used 2N2222 BJTs to bridge the button contacts on my remote as @Danny Z suggests so I can still press the buttons on the remote. They're so small they fit inside the remote control case. Still going strong 5 years later. You can get a bag of 200 2N2222s off of Amazon for $7 right now (yes, 3.5 pennies each compared to over a dollar each for relays).
I’ve had the myQ HomeKit hub controlling two liftmaster doors for 5 years. Ones had any issues that mount on the side. Rarely have any issues with them over the last 5 years.
Is this common in America - 2 garage doors for a garage this size? We would have a 2 car garage with 1 door, then it’s easier to enter at weird angles and straighten up later.
I'd say not common, more up to the design of the builder if it was new. But it was cheaper and how I got the doors really as I had a beam issue on the front which required either pulling the roof and replacing the beam for some massive project and bill, or the easier part. Put in a post and frame it in for garage doors for a fraction of the cost and get an upgrade in the process. So of course you know what I did... But after having both methods and if I was building new, I'd go with 2 separate doors again.
I would say that it is not rare or even unusual to have two doors on a 2-car garage in America, depending on where you live, although not as common as a single 16-foot door. In some places, it is common for new homes to have a 3-car garage, with one 16-ft door, plus an 8-ft door. I have a 24x24 foot garage and we ended up with 2 8-ft doors, primarily to put more distance between the cars in the garage, but it also gives me less chance of capturing both cars if a door fails (yes, door springs break) and a lighter door if I need to open it without the springs.
There seem to be quite a few different versions of the ESP32-WROOM-32D. I've looked at quite a few different Amazon ones including the link here and the pins are all different. I assume these are all pretty similar and would only need slight modification of the code to account for the different pins? Also, did you ever upgrade this project to include vehicle presence sensors?
They do vary but they don't change the use of things. Just match up the pins that you choose. No I got delayed with the heat wave and haven't been in the garage much. Trying to get it done in the next few months.
Hey! fantastic video, finally able to break free of the MyQ overlords... Quick question, you seem to skip over the "logger" portion of the code and im struggling to figure out whaty exactly this is and what its for? Thanks so much!
What multi-status sensor/switch do you use(the one one with three light up color buttons) ? Does it integrate well with Home Assistant (without cloud) ? Thanks.
What's the advantage of this setup over running ESPHome on a Sonoff SV, using the output pins on the SV to close the contacts directly on the garage door opener?
Sonoff SV is ESP8266 and was only single relay so two strikes for me there. I actually thought about using two Shelly1's as they are already ready to go in cases and have screw terminals on them but then I wanted ESP32 and to add more stuff later. Now for the contacts on the opener, you can't do that on newer openers. They use a type of digital signal on the line so shorting the wires together does nothing.
Nice vidéo. Kudos to you! I'm in the process of doing mine but I'm a bit unclear about a part of the code. What is the web_server: auth credential for in the esphome code?
Awesome! A couple more questions, I have only one garage I'll be using one gang relay, how should I wire the two wires. And I'll be using the 891LM, same board but only one but does that make a difference in connection to the board?
The real "easy button" for anything that requires a momentary switch is using the Fortrezz Mimolite. It is a zwave device and it has a jumper inside that when jumped before you adopt turns it into a 1 second button push each time you trigger it. Big fan of totally local control. I setup OpenVPN on my pfSense router so I can control everything "locally" even when I'm anywhere with an internet connection directly to the house. OpenVPN is really bomb proof! (Obviously no help when you are having "Cox barfed" issues.)
Definitely got my attention since MyQ definitely does suck! However, can we at some point figure out how those 2 wires actually control the door, power back lighting, work the lock, and I think more, and connect to those wires instead of using a remote? Not that it’s not an easy and great solution, but it could be even better. Nice job, looks and works great.
Someone already did that in a project, I can't remember the name off hand right now, but I went the method of using ESPHome and the opener as it fit my dual door scenario and car sensor automation a little easier.
RatGDO is what you're wanting. It does have the threat of you harming your garage door opener circuit board. Using the clicker like Digiblur did hear is high results and low harm.
It was back to that reasoning of needing two doors and this was a good isolated solution for my setup that wouldn't impact me saying, "Hey Mr Doorman...you stuff stopped working. Come fix it."
I'm pretty sure there's a way easier way to do this, unless these newer models have introduced too much complexity. The simple "doorbell" style button used on openers traditionally is simply a momentary switch. Newer openers like this support a bit more complexity with the multi button panel that controls the door and the light, sometimes included with a motion sensor, BUT I think that if you simply short the two wires running from the opener to the button, it should equate to pressing the door button. For older openers that is definitely the case. So really you could simply wire a shelly contact relay to the back of the opener where the button wires are attached and use simple zigbee contact sensors on the door.
That's not the case on the newer openers, you might have missed the first one I did explaining why I went the remote route. I should have explained it again here. They've moved away from shorting the wires together. If this was the case you'd see me doing a Shelly with a reed sensor like I showed in the end clip for a few seconds. The Shelly1 is a great solution and my go to for older GDOs.
If the remote uses 3.3v, why do you even need a relay? Couldn’t you just connect the GPIO directly to the points on the remote to pull them down to ground as desired? Also, look into HW622 boards if you only have one door you want to control. Cheap, and they have a built-in relay and opto-isolated gpio, but you need a 3.3v FTDI adapter to program them
The downside of not disabling the stock radio is that you are still vulnerable to Lift-Master rolling code grabbers that you can buy on ebay or Alliexpress. It would be nice if they would take security seriously, and do real encryption.
I'm late to the party here... As a fairly long term sub, somehow I missed this video during the quest to add this featuer to my home assistant project. Originally just grabbed a wemos d1 mini and a 4 relay add-on board. During testing, quickly realized that during a reboot of the d1, for some odd reason, all of teh outputs went high just long enough to trip the relays which would trigger a garage door open event. Not cool. On an ENTIRELY unrelated project, my BOG standard garbage door remotes all started to die.... no, it wasn't the batteries. Being the junkyard rat I am, I remembered that GM has sprinkled the Homelink garage door modules in every vehicle they've produced in the last 20 years... Grabbed a bunch of those from a local pick-n-pull yard for about 20 bucks each. Got one of them programmed up and made some solder connections, which I connected to my wemos d1 mini relay board. The homelink module requires you to press and hold the button for about 2000ms before it'll transmit an event. Winning! Wired that module up to the relay board, bobs yer auntie! Now I can sleep safe, knowing a random CPU crash or power loss event won't result in my garage doors opening, which would be a MAJOR security issue for my house.
I told the installer I was going to pop the speaker off and he goes uhhh... well that's one less warranty I have to worry about then. :) Smart ass for sure.
first off if your system cant open locally youve installed it wrong. I have MyQ Jack Screw systems on my garage doors. I can open them with the app without internet. Also that "stupid beep" is legally required for all automated doors that can be remotely operated for ADA compliance to alert anyone in the area Like someone blind that the door is closing.
Sounds like they aren't compliant then. I opened and closed them from across the street on accident with the remote on day 1. Mine have the safety beam anyways in case anyone steps in the way. Should I call my installer and tell him it doesn't work locally?
@@digiblurDIY well what you built is basically the home bridge device that they sell in addition to the myQ. Some of them branded myQ are not the full Home automation openers. There are many versions of the MyQ system, I only run the RJO70 JackShaft. The Homebridge bypasses the MyQ app and ties it into your Home automation be it Homekit, Alexa, HomeAssistant Etc. I have mine on Homekit so its native to the iOS infrastructure and Alexa. This ties it into the CarPlay in our vehciles and works locally without an internet connection as it uses the local network to talk to an Apple TV Hub for connection.
Except the whole open source part that will accommodate bluetooth presence and also car sensors and the homeowner controls the project and not someone else if they ever decide to start charging for stuff.
My myQ works just fine .You will only hate it if you want a premium feature. I want mine to open from anywhere, give me door position and alerts. It does all that flawlessly. And it never drops my WiFi. BYW. If someone gets hurt by your garage door, you altered its building code compliant beeping and flashing requirement while operating with your phone. You get sued, your insurance won’t cover you. You could lose everything you own. Think little child getting hit by a closing door and heartbroken parents with a hungry lawyer.
Actually since the video they broke MyQ totally and they pulled the API. So it is worse now. I didn't modify the door at all. This is the same as when I bring my door remote with me across the street and open and close the door from his living room. No beeps then either. Sounds like the door should have beeps all the time with all the lawyers like you say. If only they had it where when you walked in front of the door it would reverse the close. Hmm....
@@digiblurDIY hey bud. I’m not trying to be nasty just trying to inform. I appreciate your content. I don’t do tik tok either. You have an audience. I’m super appreciative of your content. You are very informative and by far the best content creator of this platform we are trying to understand. I’m still a fan one way or another. I want to contribute to your monetary success. 👍
Yup. It wasn't out then except for a solder only version and I couldn't void this new door warranty. Things have changed a little especially now with the open source ratgdo boards supporting esp32 and the official one unfortunately do not. I do wonder if I can add car presence sensors to those boards as well.
Really nice video! Kudos! I really want to do something but I'm not sure what the "web_server" auth credential is for, is it for the relay integration?
Just installed this at my home after months of issues with MyQ HACS integration not working. This was my first endeavor with EspHome and was definitely a learning curve. Completed installation today and got automatons with HA working beautifully. Thank you for your great contribution with this video and documentation.
Nice job!! It's awesome to get away from the MyQ integration.
Noticed MyQ was down for me many hours last week. Of course during one of the few times I've needed to see remotely the status of the door via HA. Thanks for pushing me to finally go local with the overhead doors.
It drove me nuts everyday! Of course now I've moved past it a bit with the powering off the openers and doing car automation stuff.
@@digiblurDIY Getting ready to use your setup. One function I'd like to add is detection of a vehicle that is too close to the closing door, from the inside anyway, to prevent another way my wife can ding the vehicle. The stock transmitter and receiver are recommended to be placed down low where a small child could set it off. This can allow the trunk or bed overhang of a vehicle to be in the path of the door, but the wheel not in the sensor's view. With the newer Chamberlain/Liftmaster doors you can't simply add another set of their sensors up higher. Did I hear you will be playing with sonic sensors with ESP32? Thx
Yes. Checking out a few sensors for car detection. Haven't decided what I want to use just yet. This was one reason I went with the esp32 and not two simple Shelly1 devices.
I do believe there is a code required for the doors and the height of the sensor. We had to send pictures of the sensors to the homeowners insurance of them installed.
Took some trial and error to get things working with the code, but THANK GOD we don't have to depend on MyQ Cloud anymore! THANK YOU!!
Nice!
Man i love your vids. You explain concepts in a way that is so easy to follow. You have a gift! Second gizmo i have made with your education.
I have used this to smarten up a motorized projector screen and it works perfectly!
Awesome, thank you! I love to hear about the adapted projects. Thanks!
I think you're about to get a lot of interest in this as a way to open the garage doors without going through MyQ as you've probably heard they're locking out 'non authorized' integrations from the myq api. This allows us tinkerers to have local control with the ability to go back to "stock" if we ever sell the house. Personally I think it's a winner! I'll be using one of my spare remotes for this. Thanks for posting.
Yep especially for ratgdo being out of stock. They have come a long way with the design since I did this one as I did look at them but they required soldering to the opener at the time which I couldn't do with being under warranty.
You know what i'm doing this weekend! Thank you for always stepping it up and sharing the genius that you've come up with.
Thanks for helping with the layout! I went back and forth with several solutions but once I saw the remote was 3.3V capable and this was the perfect isolation to be able to throw this box anywhere without touching the openers themselves.
Just completed this build and works great! Chose this over the RATGDO solution for a few reasons.
1) I liked that this didn't require wiring anything into the existing system.
2) Cost. I was able to automate both my garage doors for under $40(is it weird that the project box was the most expensive part. I used reed switches from Ali express
3) Availability Looks like the RATGDO boards are on backorder.
4) I got to use a soldering Iion!
I used 3 pin connectors for the reed switches so I could bench test everything easily (clipped the green wire). It also saved me from having to dink around with the connections while the box was mounted to my ceiling.
Thanks for all you do!
At the time for me Ratgdo was solder only and then I needed two so I opted for this method since it was purely isolated and I could really locate it anywhere in the house I wanted. I did opt for the project box to add additional sensors though. Keeping that warranty intact was key for my setup.
This is a very solid build, but for those looking for an easy solution, I discovered a much simpler approach.
The key simplification is that you don't need a relay at all. In fact, if you only have a single gate to control, you don't even need multiple wire pairs -- you can perma-short the remote button, and use the digital pins on an ESP (or Raspberry) to briefly apply _power_ to the remote (instead of a battery). These remotes use so little power that digital pins can power them without issues. If a wired position sensor is not an option, one can use the _wattage_ readout from the smart outlet controlling the gate opener to detect if the command has been received. Combined with a Z-wave tilt sensor, it's a pretty reliable setup.
Interesting concept there for sure! I like it!
I have been pouring over the internet for someone who has figured out a low cost solution like this! Do you think it is possible to augment the remote mounted on my wall (be it wired or wireless, have not looked) with an esp8266 in the same way? Sort of simulating a button press using the digital lines?
@@copperthedergy It's certainly possible, but it's more complex, and an extra generic wireless transmitter is very cheap (
Check this one out. It is the one I looked at in my project github.com/PaulWieland/ratgdo
@@copperthedergy My solution was an Wemos D1 Mini ESP8266 and the D1 Mini Relay Shield.
Might not need the relay, but i like hearing the click....lol and it was cheap.
I did mine in Home Assistant so I had access to ESP Home which made it really easy to code it.
love this solution. great walkthrough too. thanks for helping to educate consumers on the dangers of using equipment that is cloud dependant that doesn't have a local API
Indeed! Removing that dependency so they open every time is the way to go!
Nice work mate.
My garage door has an AUX pin for a manual momentary button.
I connected a Shelly uni and use there firmware with a one second auto off.
Works great and I use one of my ESP-NOW door sensors to tell me if the door is open or closed.
I can open / close it from Home Assistant, I don’t use it much for opening. I have a bad habit of leaving home with the door open, node-red sends me an SMS if the door has been open for longer than x minutes.
Grate work, thanks for the video
Jealous of the simple openers, so much easier to throw on a Shelly and be done. Love that easy solution!
My dumb Garage door opener was made smart.
I modified a Sonoff Basic, Isolating the relay contacts so I had "Dry Contacts".
Then with the Wired door open button that comes with the garage door opener, I wired the Sonoff relay contacts to the button contacts.
Works Flawlessly.
I am jealous! I wanted dumb garage doors.
lol - I did something very similar a few years ago but I use a HC-SR04 sensor instead. I did however leave the battery in the remote board that esp32 triggers, but I really like your idea of using power from the esp32 board instead - will need to make that change before my battery dies!
I did test the amperage draw from the board while the button was being pushed. Boring part of the footage.. it was using 0.008A at 3.3V when holding the button on the remote down. I knew the ESP32 dev board would laugh at that power draw.
Great video, I was about to do almost exact same thing i.e. tapping to Garage Remote with ESP8266/ESP32.
I am actually planning to tap to the wall mount remote instead that has more functionality(timer, status led, light), so instead of only open/close you can also set/re-set/disable auto-close timer, control light and as bonus you can read voltage of the status LED to know if door is blocked(led rapidly blinks)
May be too many thing, but should not be much more work then what you already done. BTW, I had a quick measure on the wall unit buttons voltage and it was 3v, so it might be possible to direct wire pins from espp to the buttons, i.e. no need for relay, but need to remeasure this thoroughly first, or simply use relays.
Thanks for the video, great work please keep it up.
I'm a garage door installer, first the beeping of the opener is a building code thing, off site remote operation of the unit requires not only the safety sensors and the force settings to be set properly like with using the remotes but also requires a additional audible and visual alert. Won't be a issue as long as there isn't a accident, I say it's your house, do what you want, just a contractor can't set it up that way. We use to carry liftmaster but recently changed to Genie due to call back and warranty issues after the 2021 models that have the updated firmware due to the lawsuit with Genie. As a diy motor I still recommend chamberlain (LiftMaster product) over the non pro Genie units, the build quality is better however I recommend getting a contractor to install a pro Genie.
I get it is a code thing for sure. Someone didn't think it all the way through which is a good thing. The first day I had them installed, I was next door and the opener was in my pocket. I mashed the button about 5 or 6 times, no beeps and I couldn't physically see the door either.
What's a good opener that still is old school? Meaning the simple button contact style.
Great video describing your DIY solution! I use a 819LMB MyQ HomeKit bridge and Home Assistant can talk directly to it using HomeKit protocol - basically bypassing the cloud to get to my Liftmaster. You’re solution seems cooler though!
My opener has all that built in. No Hub stuff.
Very nice build, i will use it for inspiration on my garage :) I would put two extra relays on the ESP and have it turn on/off the power instead of the smartplugs. Less standby usage.
but those relays will be at mains voltage ..
@@jyvben1520 And? Keep the box closed and away from prying fingers.
@@zaprodk not all relays are rated for high voltage (> 24 Volt)
@@jyvben1520 All the eBay-special relays are rated for 240 Volts AC, so not a problem.
@@zaprodk i never bought from ebay
Awesome!! I can't stand the beeping before it shuts the door. I am def doing this, thank you!
I still don't get that beeping noise thing where it only comes from the app. First day I had them installed, I had the remote in my pocket across the street. I hit the button a few times on accident without visual contact of the door and no beeping required there. I guess I need to be quiet before they enable that on all closings...doh!
My reeds are just shy of the ragged edge of picking up when the doors are closed. The other set is wired to the alarm panel. Boils down to personal preference I guess.
I like the smart switch on the power cord. I've been looking into options for mechanically locking the doors via the slot in the rails and having the power dead makes me feel better doing that. 👍
One thing I need to do is set the relay to pulse instead of using HA to reset the contact.
I have my other door in my alarm panel but is a manual style door for mainly storage of junk and the push mower.
The smart plug isn't as secure as the door lock but pretty simple for my setup.
Did the exact same thing. Actually you can’t just Hotwire the new MyQ. The wall buttons are smart and send a digital signal to the main unit. So that’s why I used a powered remote like you did.
They do have $10 additional wall button you can use as well but since I needed two and wanted to "air gap" things electronically I went with this method. Works out great as I've been using it for weeks.
@@digiblurDIY I do have very rare times when the 500ms relay click is heard but the remote won’t trigger. Never figured it out. Does that mean ever happen to you?
I haven't had that issue yet. Only time I had it not work was when the motor went into protect mode from mashing the button over and over too many times. OG had a little too much fun helping with b roll clips.
Haha. Got one the same age I get it!
Really nice project! Well done
Thanks yo! Still kicking strong and loving it...
Travis, Great part 2 to your your part 1 video. Thanks for sharing your tips/tricks/techniques (e.g. eliminating the 3V coin cell) for the project. Can't wait to see your solution for car presence. Have you considered using Time Of Flight (TOF) sensors for measuring distance. You could tell if your car is parked in the garage, or not (based on the distance from the sensor to the roof of your car.
Thanks again! 🙂
Thanks! I a few options I am looking at and that is one of them. Or should I say options I am testing for the accuracy.
You could've just run two wires to the screw on terminals where the button on the wall connects to the garage door opener instead if using an old remote. Most garage door openers are triggered if those terminals are just momentarily closed. The trick is to have some mechanism for detecting when the door is closed. Most garage door automation devices mounts a permanent magnet on the door and position a hall effect switch to be next to it when the door is closed, the Wyze adapter puts a QR-2 code sticker on the door and aim a camera at where it would be when closed. Presumbly a simple "electric eye" could be done with a bicycle reflector mounted on the door.
That doesn't work here. Otherwise I would have just used a Shelly1 like in my other videos.
@@digiblurDIY The button on the wall must be connected somehow. As you have a numeric key pad on the outside, I can see that it may be a serial link between it and a controller just to avoid allowing hot wiring the numeric panel but if so, you could just tap into the serial link with a pass through, indeed that's how Appletalk did it for local area networks. It would still be worthwhile to imitate the hardwire link instead of using a remote and if it is a serial data link, there are ways of doing it though granted most people have forgotten all the serial link tricks of the past (note elevators used to be all connected together by such pass through serial links). However, I guess even the commercial garage door opener adapter units all have mimicking a remote garage door opener as a backup to the hard wire so it isn't a bad choice, just not a preferable choice.
Note, the test that the commercial smart home adapters give you to see if the hardwire is a contact switch instead of a keypad data link is to short the screw on terminals together with the points of a needle nose pliers and see if the door activates.
@@johnwang9914 they changed to a digital signal.
@@digiblurDIY Uhh, what do you think a serial link is, you know Rs-232, RS-422, etc... Even AppleTalk is a serial link. Technically USB and PCI are serial links, even ethernet is technically a serial link.
I believe the Liftmaster/chamberlain multi-button wall openers do NOT send a digital serial signal. Each button on the opener just puts a different resistance across the two wires, in a voltage divider circuit. The opener detects the voltage to determine what it is supposed to do. The main door open/close button puts a direct short across the two wires, just like a “doorbell” button will do. So wiring to and old remote was not necessary.
I really appreciated the video but why go with LiftMaster in the first place as the garage door system? I'll eventually need to replace my garage door system and I am sure I won't go with a LiftMaster because of all the horror stories around MyQ. Probably will look into Genie.
For me, it was just what I bought, didn’t do my research ahead of time, and I regret that, but it was decent cost wise and other than this and one other issue, it’s been great. When my garage was being built onto my house, and after the opener was installed, at least 4 different times, hammering nails somewhat close to the opener, within 10 feet or so caused the opener to trigger and without any of its limits, it actually bent the rod clear up until it damaged the drywall on the ceiling, and destroyed the door itself making it be replaced, and with the battery backup, simply unplugging it didn’t stop the damage. I purposely hammered near it very hard and was able to reproduce the issue one time, don’t know what the contractor did to make it happen 4 times, and I have to admit I didn’t really believe him even though he covered all the damage voluntarily, until I did finally see it happen. So now that I typed all this, it wasn’t such a good deal after all lol.
Most of us inherit what comes with the home. Unluckily 99% of professional installers in my area only stick to Liftmaster/Chamberlin openers. So you get stuck with limited options unless you DIY it yourself.
This was all they were installing in my area as well. I waited for a bit on some older openers on backorder but due to scheduling and such we didn't want to wait any longer. They were very confused on why I didn't want the "app thing". I'm sure myQ is waiting to pounce on some premium features for a monthly bill. Lock you in type thing.
Genie makes the worst openers on the market period.
Oh god, please don’t go to Genie if Wi-Fi capabilities are important to you. I own a garage door installation/repair company and Genie is significantly more frustrating to program. Just dive into the reviews between the two apps in the App Store, both 5 stars but when you take a closer look at the reviews on Aladdin Connect you see several more bad reviews. For a good while, Aladdin Connect sat at 2 stars but I’ll admit they’ve made small strides to make it better but the UI for MyQ is more fleshed out and simpler. Aladdin Connect is slower too.
I’m not sure why this person’s MyQ is so slow, mine works instantaneously despite my router being on the 3rd floor of my apartment and my garage door being below on the ground floor. I’ve had customers that have had bad Wi-Fi coverage in the garage and it still takes less than 10 seconds to open (which is still a lot but nowhere near this slow). That issue we can remedy by just adding in a Wi-Fi booster for $50 or less and not only will that alleviate the garage problem and significantly easier but fill in the dead spot in your house.
I do have to say that if you are technical enough to go this method it would work wonderfully but for the average person, they’re not going to attempt this. Also MyQ’s server’s will go down every now and then but it’s only happened to me twice in the last 2.5 years.
Thanks for your video; it is an example of what people can do if they think outside the box.
My issue, before seeing your approach, is that the MyQ solution for automation is far from complete. For example: You set up MyQ to automatically close the door at a certain time so you don't leave the garage door open overnight. Now, you come home from shopping and open the rear gate on a minivan, which goes through the path of the garage door. You go inside and forget that you left the rear gate open. Instead of providing a notification that your garage door is open, MyQ closes the garage door automatically. You inadvertently left the back door of the minivan in the path of the garage door. When the garage door comes down, it is going to strike the car door, damaging it... severely! There are no options in MyQ to send you a notification, instead of closing the garage door. With your solution, I can see that an additional extension of the software can be implemented to check the status of the door (open or closed) and, instead of automatically closing the door, it can notify you (via several routes) that the door is open when the desired state is closed. Your action at that point can be to close the door, check on the status of the doorway, or ignore it... YOUR CHOICE.
Thanks, again, for the ideas...
Indeed. Local and flexible is the way. Something like this is prefect for an actionable notification in Home Assistant. "Hey dummy, you left the garage open again! Close it for you?" I love the nice personable notifications to myself like that ;)
you just could use a couple of transistors on the spot of the buttons on the remote control board. so you could leave the relays out of it.
I might try some photocouplers as well given the low voltage.
I can verify that solution works well. I made a similar garage door opener and used 2N2222 BJTs to bridge the button contacts on my remote as @Danny Z suggests so I can still press the buttons on the remote. They're so small they fit inside the remote control case. Still going strong 5 years later. You can get a bag of 200 2N2222s off of Amazon for $7 right now (yes, 3.5 pennies each compared to over a dollar each for relays).
Concerning the multi status sensor that you show at 6:12, who manufactures that and do you know thepart number?
www.tindie.com/products/logixpcb/3-button-esp-controller-w-rgb-led/
I’ve had the myQ HomeKit hub controlling two liftmaster doors for 5 years. Ones had any issues that mount on the side. Rarely have any issues with them over the last 5 years.
Homekit isn't too bad but I wanted to stay more open source and the ability to add sensors.
Is this common in America - 2 garage doors for a garage this size? We would have a 2 car garage with 1 door, then it’s easier to enter at weird angles and straighten up later.
I'd say not common, more up to the design of the builder if it was new. But it was cheaper and how I got the doors really as I had a beam issue on the front which required either pulling the roof and replacing the beam for some massive project and bill, or the easier part. Put in a post and frame it in for garage doors for a fraction of the cost and get an upgrade in the process. So of course you know what I did...
But after having both methods and if I was building new, I'd go with 2 separate doors again.
I would say that it is not rare or even unusual to have two doors on a 2-car garage in America, depending on where you live, although not as common as a single 16-foot door. In some places, it is common for new homes to have a 3-car garage, with one 16-ft door, plus an 8-ft door. I have a 24x24 foot garage and we ended up with 2 8-ft doors, primarily to put more distance between the cars in the garage, but it also gives me less chance of capturing both cars if a door fails (yes, door springs break) and a lighter door if I need to open it without the springs.
There seem to be quite a few different versions of the ESP32-WROOM-32D. I've looked at quite a few different Amazon ones including the link here and the pins are all different. I assume these are all pretty similar and would only need slight modification of the code to account for the different pins? Also, did you ever upgrade this project to include vehicle presence sensors?
They do vary but they don't change the use of things. Just match up the pins that you choose.
No I got delayed with the heat wave and haven't been in the garage much. Trying to get it done in the next few months.
Hey! fantastic video, finally able to break free of the MyQ overlords... Quick question, you seem to skip over the "logger" portion of the code and im struggling to figure out whaty exactly this is and what its for? Thanks so much!
That's just for the serial output if you need to debug things.
What multi-status sensor/switch do you use(the one one with three light up color buttons) ?
Does it integrate well with Home Assistant (without cloud) ?
Thanks.
Yes, it is 3 buttons, 3 WS2812 RGB LEDs, etc on an ESP8266. www.tindie.com/products/logixpcb/3-button-esp-controller-w-rgb-led/
@@digiblurDIY Thanks, I will give it a try !
I tried to get my new MyQ garage door to connect to my network several times to no avail. I just use old fashioned radio transmitters.
What's the advantage of this setup over running ESPHome on a Sonoff SV, using the output pins on the SV to close the contacts directly on the garage door opener?
Sonoff SV is ESP8266 and was only single relay so two strikes for me there. I actually thought about using two Shelly1's as they are already ready to go in cases and have screw terminals on them but then I wanted ESP32 and to add more stuff later.
Now for the contacts on the opener, you can't do that on newer openers. They use a type of digital signal on the line so shorting the wires together does nothing.
Nice vidéo. Kudos to you! I'm in the process of doing mine but I'm a bit unclear about a part of the code. What is the web_server: auth credential for in the esphome code?
It forces a password to open the web browser page on it.
Awesome! A couple more questions, I have only one garage I'll be using one gang relay, how should I wire the two wires. And I'll be using the 891LM, same board but only one but does that make a difference in connection to the board?
Just to ground and the first button.
The real "easy button" for anything that requires a momentary switch is using the Fortrezz Mimolite. It is a zwave device and it has a jumper inside that when jumped before you adopt turns it into a 1 second button push each time you trigger it.
Big fan of totally local control. I setup OpenVPN on my pfSense router so I can control everything "locally" even when I'm anywhere with an internet connection directly to the house. OpenVPN is really bomb proof! (Obviously no help when you are having "Cox barfed" issues.)
Any zigbee versions? Zwave is mess in my area.
Excellent, thanks for sharing.
Definitely got my attention since MyQ definitely does suck! However, can we at some point figure out how those 2 wires actually control the door, power back lighting, work the lock, and I think more, and connect to those wires instead of using a remote? Not that it’s not an easy and great solution, but it could be even better. Nice job, looks and works great.
Someone already did that in a project, I can't remember the name off hand right now, but I went the method of using ESPHome and the opener as it fit my dual door scenario and car sensor automation a little easier.
@@digiblurDIY oh man nice, will have to look for that, was it on TH-cam? You usually do have good reason for the things you do.
RatGDO is what you're wanting. It does have the threat of you harming your garage door opener circuit board. Using the clicker like Digiblur did hear is high results and low harm.
It was back to that reasoning of needing two doors and this was a good isolated solution for my setup that wouldn't impact me saying, "Hey Mr Doorman...you stuff stopped working. Come fix it."
@@calebjpryor awesome thanks, I think I’m more interested in knowing how than actually doing it, however once I know, look out ha ha.
I'm pretty sure there's a way easier way to do this, unless these newer models have introduced too much complexity. The simple "doorbell" style button used on openers traditionally is simply a momentary switch. Newer openers like this support a bit more complexity with the multi button panel that controls the door and the light, sometimes included with a motion sensor, BUT I think that if you simply short the two wires running from the opener to the button, it should equate to pressing the door button. For older openers that is definitely the case.
So really you could simply wire a shelly contact relay to the back of the opener where the button wires are attached and use simple zigbee contact sensors on the door.
That's not the case on the newer openers, you might have missed the first one I did explaining why I went the remote route. I should have explained it again here.
They've moved away from shorting the wires together. If this was the case you'd see me doing a Shelly with a reed sensor like I showed in the end clip for a few seconds. The Shelly1 is a great solution and my go to for older GDOs.
Linear still works in that fashion but most residential operators like to "communicate" with the wall console.
@@digiblurDIY got it. Ironically I just watched your older video where you explored this method. I'm used to working on the older style.
I did a similar build using a Shelly Relay v1
I almost went with a Shelly again here but I would need two and needed some extra pins/voltages too.
So what shoes did you get?
Some noice and pretty bright yellow ones.
My digirage esp unit still works but does not update any longer since April 2024. any Ideas
What's the error?
what keypad are you using?
I stuck with the manufacturer brand model. I had to watch out for the knock offs. amzn.to/3fVZ8x0
@@digiblurDIY OHHH i thought you had like a zigbee keypad that just went to your HA install.
I do have a Linkind zigbee one but not for this case.
If the remote uses 3.3v, why do you even need a relay? Couldn’t you just connect the GPIO directly to the points on the remote to pull them down to ground as desired?
Also, look into HW622 boards if you only have one door you want to control. Cheap, and they have a built-in relay and opto-isolated gpio, but you need a 3.3v FTDI adapter to program them
You might be able to use some optocouplers or some other gate to pull things to ground instead of a relay but it might need some soldering action.
digrage good door name 😄
Two meanings for sure!
The downside of not disabling the stock radio is that you are still vulnerable to Lift-Master rolling code grabbers that you can buy on ebay or Alliexpress. It would be nice if they would take security seriously, and do real encryption.
I don't think that is really an issue for my install type but I do agree on always upping the game on encryption.
Plenty of other things that could be operated like this where a remote is the only way. Thanks.
Oh definitely! Lots of remotes out there for sure!
1:19, I'll bypass your code box and just pull the 5 cent rope on the garage door opener. I'm just busting balls..... good job
What rope? Just kool-aid through the door might be easier.
@@digiblurDIY 1:29 the emergency pull rope for when the power is out. Oh Yeah! right thru the door. lmao!!
Those may or may not have fallen off. The power is only out for maybe 20 seconds max. 😂
Next add an NFC tag that can be scanned to open the door(s) :)
I do have the secondary keypad outside the doors. That's how OG opened it in the middle of my recording.
I'm late to the party here... As a fairly long term sub, somehow I missed this video during the quest to add this featuer to my home assistant project. Originally just grabbed a wemos d1 mini and a 4 relay add-on board. During testing, quickly realized that during a reboot of the d1, for some odd reason, all of teh outputs went high just long enough to trip the relays which would trigger a garage door open event. Not cool.
On an ENTIRELY unrelated project, my BOG standard garbage door remotes all started to die.... no, it wasn't the batteries. Being the junkyard rat I am, I remembered that GM has sprinkled the Homelink garage door modules in every vehicle they've produced in the last 20 years... Grabbed a bunch of those from a local pick-n-pull yard for about 20 bucks each. Got one of them programmed up and made some solder connections, which I connected to my wemos d1 mini relay board. The homelink module requires you to press and hold the button for about 2000ms before it'll transmit an event. Winning! Wired that module up to the relay board, bobs yer auntie! Now I can sleep safe, knowing a random CPU crash or power loss event won't result in my garage doors opening, which would be a MAJOR security issue for my house.
Nice!! Never late to the party. Great idea for grabbing those modules.
I'm glad you got rid of all that complexity. /s
Yup. High in the WAF complexity.
I opened up mine and ran a screw through that damn speaker that made that annoying beeping sound every time i closed my garage door!
I told the installer I was going to pop the speaker off and he goes uhhh... well that's one less warranty I have to worry about then. :) Smart ass for sure.
SuddenStink and CenturyStink are crappy ISPs too, I know!
We called them SuddenBlink
I have it and can most certainly confirm that it SUCKS.
I fixed my myq opener with a vice and a hammer.
Hammers fix a lot of things! HA!
first off if your system cant open locally youve installed it wrong. I have MyQ Jack Screw systems on my garage doors. I can open them with the app without internet. Also that "stupid beep" is legally required for all automated doors that can be remotely operated for ADA compliance to alert anyone in the area Like someone blind that the door is closing.
Sounds like they aren't compliant then. I opened and closed them from across the street on accident with the remote on day 1. Mine have the safety beam anyways in case anyone steps in the way.
Should I call my installer and tell him it doesn't work locally?
@@digiblurDIY if you have the homebridge setup then yes you need to call them.
No. These were all in one and just wifi based. No external bridges like I have seen.
@@digiblurDIY well what you built is basically the home bridge device that they sell in addition to the myQ. Some of them branded myQ are not the full Home automation openers. There are many versions of the MyQ system, I only run the RJO70 JackShaft. The Homebridge bypasses the MyQ app and ties it into your Home automation be it Homekit, Alexa, HomeAssistant Etc. I have mine on Homekit so its native to the iOS infrastructure and Alexa. This ties it into the CarPlay in our vehciles and works locally without an internet connection as it uses the local network to talk to an Apple TV Hub for connection.
Except the whole open source part that will accommodate bluetooth presence and also car sensors and the homeowner controls the project and not someone else if they ever decide to start charging for stuff.
My myQ works just fine .You will only hate it if you want a premium feature. I want mine to open from anywhere, give me door position and alerts. It does all that flawlessly. And it never drops my WiFi. BYW. If someone gets hurt by your garage door, you altered its building code compliant beeping and flashing requirement while operating with your phone. You get sued, your insurance won’t cover you. You could lose everything you own. Think little child getting hit by a closing door and heartbroken parents with a hungry lawyer.
Actually since the video they broke MyQ totally and they pulled the API. So it is worse now. I didn't modify the door at all. This is the same as when I bring my door remote with me across the street and open and close the door from his living room. No beeps then either. Sounds like the door should have beeps all the time with all the lawyers like you say. If only they had it where when you walked in front of the door it would reverse the close. Hmm....
Why are your videos so damn long. I’m such a fan I can not watch your videos without speeding it up. It’s bad.
Because I don't do TikTok and explain it for the newbies. I put chapter marks for people to jump around.
@@digiblurDIY hey bud. I’m not trying to be nasty just trying to inform. I appreciate your content. I don’t do tik tok either. You have an audience. I’m super appreciative of your content. You are very informative and by far the best content creator of this platform we are trying to understand. I’m still a fan one way or another. I want to contribute to your monetary success. 👍
I never took it as such. I kinda laughed as that video was short and only 16 min.
hey nobody is making you watch it. Quit complaining. Most of us like this content only a.. like you don't
One word: Ratgdo
Yup. It wasn't out then except for a solder only version and I couldn't void this new door warranty. Things have changed a little especially now with the open source ratgdo boards supporting esp32 and the official one unfortunately do not. I do wonder if I can add car presence sensors to those boards as well.
Nice Video!
Really nice video! Kudos! I really want to do something but I'm not sure what the "web_server" auth credential is for, is it for the relay integration?