You missed the biggest pro tip.. The length of the spurs should be set so that when the beater is just touching the batter head, the shaft of the beater ends up being perpendicular to the floor. This removes wasted energy in your kick stroke. When the beater overextends the 90-degree point, it turns into wasted energy and becomes less efficient. This is a game changer approach.
I just bend the beater shaft forward in a strong vice so the head twats the skin on the bass drum before you lose your 90deg effort of leverage energy..it's great if you like loose springs and a high foot pedal action.. 😊
As always, I can't agree hard enough. Same thing with the tom positioning: I bet I can tell by the way toms are mounted on the bassdrum whether the guy can play or not. At school almost no music teacher knows how to set up a kit correctly, but how could they know, they don't watch your channel! Excellent work, Sir!
Thank you! YES - about toms. I am in schools all the time, and the toms are the number one giveaway that there are other problems. I'm going to be making another video about that exact issue soon, specifically for band/school music teachers. Thanks for the comment!
You are spot-on, particularly about centering the logo. My reso head is printed with a badge with two vertical stripes, so it HAS to be straight! And you know what I use for a drum mat? A plain $9 6'x6' furniture moving blanket from Harbor Freight. I got sick and tire of having to roll up my previous drum rug at the end of a gig. The moving blanket does the same job, and at the end of the gig, I just fold it up in 15 seconds. And it takes up less space in the back of my SUV! It's lighter, too!
@@arturofernandez6088 Good question. The answer is no, because I have the rubber "feet" unscrewed far enough that the spikes are buried within the rubber. And I have had no trouble with the bass drum moving forward with this configuration.
If you have a good rug and your pedal has velcro underneath you actually don’t need to tighten the pedal to the hoop at all. The bond between the velcro and the carpet is sursprisingly strong.
I just got a new DW pedal and the baseplate is HUGE. I was noticing that it could easily stand alone without being connected to the hoop. Good call! Thanks for the comment!
There is such a great tool on the market and thats a kind of bassdrumm stabilisator. Very easy to attach on the front side of the basedrumm with two screws. I am not a drummer but a guitar player but I have seen it in a few recording studios.
I play Ludwig and they have by far the best bass drum spur's. They have four per drum and their just one piece, on front they curve forward and on rear curve back. They also have nice large rubber feet on the ends. My drum goes nowhere at all, just love these spur's. Take Care
Crazy. I just set my spurs on a brand new kit. I’m a self taught drummer and I’ve been drumming for 15 years so I had no idea what to do. In all my reasoning I did it all right. Thanks for this validating video. Wait… I think I still need to tighten up the set screws on the spurs. Anyway, thanks.
Good advice - especially for younger drummers. Another piece of equipment I’ve found recently that helps with bass drum creep is the kickstrap. It wraps around your throne base and then wraps underneath your kick pedal. If you play heel up (and hit hard)… I do both… it helps mitigate the kick drum from drifting away. 👍
As always what an interesting and informative video. I agree on every point, spur adjustment with the front of the bass drum raised by one inch at the most is one I’ve used for all my drumming life. That’s a great tip on getting the logo head straight by attaching string to the two tension rods. Another great point is protecting the bass drum hoop from damage by the pedal, I’ve used hoop protectors for as long as I can remember, even 40 years back I used a beer mat torn in half which was better than nothing. I recently spent £400 on a pair of Yamaha RC hoops and there’s no way they wouldn’t be protected but a simple £5 hoop protector is a fraction of the cost compared to a damaged hoop! Another little thing I do is every time I change a head, when replacing the hoop I always line the claws up in exactly the same position on the hoop where they came off. Great video (can’t believe people carry the bass drum with the pedal still attached!) and by the way at 2:50 what brand and model is the little walnut finish bd & mounted tom (Yamaha tom holder) kit, it’s beautiful!
Thanks for the great comment! You make an excellent point about putting the claws in the same place each time. Consistency is key! The bass drum you're asking about is an 18" Ludwig Bubinga. I bought it used, and the previous owner had put the Yamaha tom mount on it. I love it. Sounds and looks great, and is a joy to play. Thanks again for stopping by!
1) raising the front of the kick drum off the ground a little bit also places the batter head more at a 90° angle to the pedal beater so you don’t have to go past 90° with the beater. 2) the Kickstrap product does a great job from keeping your bass drum from sliding while taking pressure off the hoop and allowing you to not have to crank down the tension on the pedal clamping to the hoop. Also, since the strap attaches to your throne, you can quickly figure out the distance you will need from the bass drum pedal to your throne when quickly gauging set up space.
Agree 100% on both points. The Kickstrap is a killer product. As for the 90 degree pedal beater angle, I am actually struggling with my 18" kick. Since it's on a riser, I have to mount it a little further away from the drum to clear the rim (with the chain, etc.), and it goes past 90 when it hits the drum. Still working on a fix, because it takes a serious amount of adjustment every time I play that kit. Thanks for the comment!
5:15: can’t help but notice the dichotomy. You speak about getting the drum off the floor so it can vibrate/resonate - yet there’s that big pillow in the drum, to deaden those vibrations.
It's a matter of control. It's best to get the drum to resonate as much as possible given other factors like choice of drum heads, giving you a solid base to then tweak further. You can't really control the sound and how much you deadening you get if the floor is simply doing it for you
Nice catch! You make a good point. The pillow I'm using is a DW Pro-Cushion, and it's super lightweight. It's more designed to shorten the length of time that the heads resonate rather than dampen the shell. The effect is comparatively small. As with all things drum, it's never just one thing, but every little thing has an effect. Thanks for the comment!
To get the best feel, the bass drum should be raised so that the beater never has to go past vertical in order to hit the drum head. Spurs don't always work that well, and the spikes can go through the rug and damage the floor underneath. Replacing the spurs' feet with KBrakes has been life-changing for me. They also make attachments that will keep your bass drum and hi-hat in place on a hard floor without a rug, although I cannot comment on how well they work.
Nice. I agree with you on all points. I've never tried one of the strap/attachments that you're talking about, but I think I need to. KBrakes look cool, gonna have to give them a shot. Thanks for the comment!
I would even take the bass drum high nerdy ness one step further and also adjust it so where when your bass drum beater hits the batter side it is exactly parallel at the impact point. This was taken from Dave Weckl and I have done this for years. Especially for pedals that do not have an adjustable cam.
You can use your iPhone as a level. Standard tool on every one called “Measure” - you can set your tom angles too. And it works for distance. Yer snare is always in the same spot. You only need to establish measurements once.
I've had my spur length sorted for a few years now, but I can't believe I never though of the idea of using a level to set it, will definitely try tat method out the next time I've to adjust kick drum spurs
The correct high of the spurs it depends on the beater, I use DW, Classic felt Danmar and Square Zoro model, all require different highs in order to hit correctly the drumhead.
I agree with everything you say EXCEPT the spikes on the spurs. Even with carpets, I have damaged floors with these. The solution is simple, just recess them fully into the rubber feet and use a thin, plastic coated wire cable which slips around the foot pedal heel pad of the hi hat stand and the bass drum heel pad (I know that pedals are different, but my basic matching Yamaha pedals are perfect for this.) and also around the front two feet of the throne. I made my two cables (one loop on each end, they stay attached to the throne when packed). I spent less than $10 at the hardware store for a short cable of about 1/8" diameter and 4 u-clamps.) I can set up on bare floors or carpeted floors with no damage to them, plus the hi hat stand and bass drum stay permanently adjusted with no creeping. Set up is quick and easy. Since I like my 18" bass drum beater to hit dead center on the head, I use a 2" Gibraltar riser. For my permanent adjustment, I elevated the front of the drum to be perfectly level (yes, use a level) from front to rear. Then I leveled the spurs from side to side. This little bit of elevation makes the little bass drum sound much bigger. The bass drum and riser stay attached in the soft case with plenty of room and the grip on the hoop is spread out in an arc with no damage to the hoop (the pedal grips onto the steel riser instead of the wood hoop). This initial set up is time consuming but it only has to be done once. Afterwards, the amount of time saved is amazing!
Now that you mention it, I have at least one drum that I actually double up the carpet/rug under the spurs. I went to a carpet store and bought some old samples (12 x 18) that I can thrown down under anything that might damage the floors. I have hardwood in my studio, and I try to be as careful with it as I can. Great point, and I love your solution. Very creative. I hope a lot of people read your comments, because you know what you're talking about! Thanks again for the comment!
@@CommonSenseMusician Thanks. I just did this by trial and error. I got tired of the bass drum and hi hat stand creeping away, and I sure regretted damaging floors. This just came to me almost by accident.
My spurs are so good that I can usually get away with playing on bare floors. In a pinch though I once used the floor mats out of my car lol Dude my logo was crooked as hell last night at the gig and the crowds face was eye level with it. I rocked with it though lol Man this channel has a good way about deeply explaining things other channels might overlook. Like the video about cymbal stands. I learned so much, even a old head like me. One topic I’d like to see somebody cover is how to select cymbals that work well together for a kit.
Thanks for the kind words. I honestly feel great if even one person learns one thing, so I really appreciate your comment. I will admit to having used car floormats a time or too, as well. Hey, if it works, it works, right? I'll put cymbal selection on my list of videos to make! Thank you!
When attaching the beater pedal to the bass drum, look for center, or the positioning guide as you demonstrated, but, in addition, as you begin to tighten the clamp, watch the pedal towers. At the moment the clamp makes contact, the pedal will often shift slightly to the left, or right. When this happens, move the clamp, just a bit, toward the direction of lean. Repeat until the clamp doesn't change the vertical angle of the pedal at all. This provides the largest available contact area for the clamp, reduces "point pressure" on the hoop, directs maximum energy to the drum head during play, properly aligns with the front spurs and makes for a more stable, secure setup.
Good morning, Mr. Common Sense Musician, thank you for yet another entertaining and informative show. All the little things can add up to a very important big thing, and you did a good job addressing that theme.❤️🙏👏❤️🙏👏❤️
If you play a pedal with an eccentric cam or, even "worse", a direct drive, the angle of the head will affect your pedalfeeling massively. Therefore you should try to always have the heads exactly perpendicular to the surface the kit stands on, so the height of your hoopclamps lower part is exactly the height you want to lift your bassdrum with the spurs. I have a small "spirit level" - device (right word?) for that adjustment. EDIT: Okay, in a later part of the video there's the level, but I would also use it in the other dimension, holding the level at the head.
I liked your vid although none of this info was new to me. I follow all those 'rules' except the logo. I use Ludwig drums currently but with any kit I use (that still has the drum company logo head) I like the logo vertical rather than horizontal. Just a quirky little thing I like to do.
Also if your bass is off the ground to much. Is will make a felt beater wear uneven over time. It wears at a angle because of the friction everytime you hit you beater against the drum.
There are two types of drummers. There are those who do this. Measuring all of this stuff, setting seat to a precision height, elbows bent to a perfect degree. All drums at measured heights. Sticks held at a specific balance point. This is all in your mind. I mean, this guy is stretching strings? THEN, there is the drummer who is so adept with his hands, that it does not MATTER what is in front of him…he ROCKS! The perfect height will ONLY really work, for the snare drum, if you sit like a piano player…don’t get me started on THAT. Drummers reach and move in huge arcs. HOPEFULLY! I knew a drummer who had some disabilities. Once he had no sticks at a sudden, impromptu jam. He LITERALLY played with antique, curved WOODEN SPOONS! Because he was such a good drummer, it sounded the same. If you create TOO MANY set up requirements, you are DEPENDENT upon these BARRIERS that you yourself created. Just LEARN THE FEEL. You’ll know if you’re doing it right, it will sound good. Same with all of the rudiments. They are great if you can make it work. But if you need to change the laws, feel free. As long as you can do what needs to be done, and it sounds great. Where did the rules come from? Some guy made them up, for teaching others. Who is to say that this is the GOSPEL? Break the rules. Create some NEW rudiments. There can be more than 40! Guys with LONG upper legs need to play differently that guys with short uppers (hams). Long shins, SO different from guys with short shins. See what I mean? Be ready to experiment.
I've been a drummer for 20 years and i didnt know people lift their bassdrums using their spurs. I mean, i do it with small kicks like the 16" i use now, but i always placed bigger drums on the ground and THEN adjust the spurs so the hit the ground.
In my experience, most people have the kick off the ground a little bit, but it comes down to how it sounds and feels for YOU. If you like what you're getting, I say keep doing it. But it might be worth a little experimentation. Thanks for the comment!
The older I get, more I play, more I obsess over the fundamentals like this. You’d be amazed how long people can play without really learning this stuff.
I disagree whit having the logo straight, sometimes heads had a premade hole to put the mic on, and maybe the sound operator wants it to be right or left depending where you put the snare drum to help prevent bleed. Sorry my English, hope you can understand it😅
Your English is just fine! I think if you have a reason to mount your bass drum head a different way, you absolutely do it. I was mostly addressing players who aren’t paying attention or are not putting in a little bit of effort to get the logo straight. Thanks for the comment!
I do have the beater slightly off center, but many players put it right in the center. It comes down to how it feels and sounds. I really like how mine sounds off-center. Thanks for the comment!
These are my favorite because you can silver sharpie them to spike where the stands and pedals go. You can also hose them off after your lead singer spills a beer on it. I carry them around stacked up in a 50 gallon trash bag just in case they end up dirty.
@@brandoncoffey3449 they’re great. They last forever. Hose off the gunk and off you go again. No space in the van & they stick to linoleum. Not every carpet stays put.
I like the topic you're on, but my bass drum is from the 1960's and the spurs are telescope type and are angled at a low angle, thus it's almost useless... but it's original.
I'm a big fan of hard tile floors for drum recordings. The rug is practical, but the drums sound better when the floor is reflective. Rugs dampen the floor reflections too much imo
Hi, not sure if you will reply since I'm really late to this video and im kind of panicking. I don't know drum vocabulary that well but I'll try my best to explain-- on my bass drum legs (i think they're called spurs) the spiky thing at the end goes in the rubber usually. But for one of the legs on my bass drum the spiky thing went through the rubber and idk if it broke or not but now my bass drum slides on that side and left a massive line that it engraved in my floor. I tried fixing it but nothing worked, im not sure if im stupid or if it's broken. Edit: turns out im just stupid. thanks anyway!!
Man, I'm sorry about the new "engraving" in your floor. That's a tough way to get an education. Glad you figured it out! Thanks for watching and for the comment.
Very well done, smart, commonsense and important. I have studied, physics and engineering design. So, you know what An anal nightmare I am around drums. You nailed this. Another thing, keep your gear wiped down and clean . Stay awesome everyone.
Nice catch! I was filming another couple of videos when I made this one. My hats are from this video: th-cam.com/video/-5Po31bdYiw/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CommonSenseMusician
They are the stock spurs that came on the drum when I bought it, so I actually don’t know. Good question! If I had to guess, I’d say long because it’s a 22” bass drum.
It just kills me, how one can not mention that you can’t have four points touching a level plane, only three. This applies especially for hi-hat stands with three legs. I know some come with the little spur anchors on the back of the foot pedal itself, and that suggests you should lower that part until it meets the ground; but that causes the weight of the whole thing divide through the four parts. One would believe, well that gives more stability; well it doesn’t. By making contact with the center part (the pedal itself) you’re reducing, ever so slightly, the weight on the surrounding legs, and subsequently also reducing their capacity of “gripping” to the ground.
OMG, while it was great to sit down at a kit again after months of my drums in storage it was disappointing to find that the kick drum was stuffed full of pillows and felt like kicking a cardboard box, muffles taped to every tom and the snare with the bottom head on the snare too loose to sing. Oh well, at least the metals were resonant and the drums tonal enough to groove with the band.
@@CommonSenseMusician If I ever get enough work to afford to get my kit out of storage! I don't recommend being a white guy trying to find work right now. The tilt to hire anyone but me is real and the evidence is above deck if you look in the right places. That said, not my kit so I can't just pop the heads off and take out pillows and tune it. My kick drum booms loud and clear and my toms sing, my snare pops like a firecracker cause I looked into how to tune them. Anyway, my pleasure! Your channel has lots of great info.
I actually discovered on my own before anyone told me to set my spurs that way. It improved the tone greatly, as well as removing the blanket I had stuffed in it. This helps me understand better how to set them up, but I got close. Certainly I would never pick up the kick drum without taking the pedal off! That would obviously put undue pressure on many important metal parts.
Always take gaffer/duct tape with you to a gig. If you have to play a crappy kit on a shiny wooden floor, tape your pedal down...not ideal, but should hold the bass drum steady enough to get you through
Gaff tape.. always keep gaff tape and a rug with you. Duct tape will leave a sticky residue on the equipment and floor and have seen others pull up some of the floor finish.
MAPEX DRUMS have small notches, on the extension legs, that you can use as your PERFECT SETTING so you don’t have to guess “Are my spurs set evenly???” I don’t know why all drum manufacturers don’t use this technology 😢😢😢😢🥁🥁🥁🥁🥁🥁
😬 *"...UUTTT-OHH..."* 🤔 SOMEONE..., *_DIDN'T_* FOLLOW, 😧 his own advice w/regards to having a straight 📐 *_"LOGO"_* ON HIS "Reso" side kick drum head!!! YUPPER.., A CROOKED *_"REMO"_* logo for our CHANNEL HOST!! 😨 MY-OH-MY!! 😂 *ANYWAY KEEP ON KEEPING ON BROTHER DRUMMER!!!!!* 😎🤘🏼
@@CommonSenseMusician No worries!!! I was just messing with ya on that!! HOWEVER... I can be a bit of a stickler about things like that with my own set(s.) Although, I was lucky enough, back when I had a drum tech, to have one who was like a "whole lotta" anal about that stuff, making me ALWAYS LOOK GOOD, from an aesthetic's point of view. And with respect to this video, I am very surprised that you were able to catch all those drum mistakes, I was always under the impression that drummers took great pride in not only their craft, but also the little things, that you pointed out as well. Anyway, I appreciate your being a good sport and a cool dude with me calling you out on the crooked reso head, as the world needs a lot of people who aren't always uptight about stuff!!! 😎🤘🏼
Ha! That’s awesome. Yeah, my videos are mostly aimed at newer players who just haven’t been taught the basics yet. When I first started teaching I was blown away by all the things I didn’t think I’d ever have to tell my students. But it’s all good. We’re all still learning at some level. Thanks again!
You ool and your straight logos or logo lined with badge. Sure my bass drum head is straight cuz im not dumb, but i don't line it up with the badge cuz im not a psychopath
You know neighbors I get a kick out of these drummers also that used pillows blankets sleeping bags tape mufflers it's hilarious I used none of above straight up skin on drums is the tuning process of the resignation of the g note
My last band I played a wide open kick for rock music but now that I’m doing country, I’ve been experimenting with a pillow again. Working pretty good so far but I had to pull out a bunch of the stuffing to get it sounding good. I agree that a lot of kick muffling people do gets goofy. But, it can be done tastefully and with a great tone. Depends on what you’re going for.
I've always believed that a wide open drum with nothing on the heads or in the shell is the best way to go. That said, I've experimented with a lot of different products on/in my bass drum to get the sound I'm after. I envy your g note! Thanks for the comment!
All I know is when I played last night my kick thumped like mfer! Which it was mic'd. And the tone I was getting was a nice deep thud! and the head response is satisfying to play on. I also to further clarify, I have essentially an EMAD batter head with the ring and all. which adds to the tone I'm getting greatly. I say essentially bc it was cut off a real EMAD head and I glued it onto a fresh remo head. I know I'm ghetto lol.
Seems odd as all heck. Especially if the hardware is mounted incorrectly. As a Carpenter by trade, the torpedo level is extremely sensitive instrument. I Use it on my motorcycle also. Can never trust the ground or floor. In commercial construction, we measure down off the acoustical ceiling which is set by a laser. ( sugar...where was I ).
@@edwardkaminsky8142 Yep. I thought of that, too. In my studio I'm on an LVP floor over concrete, so there's almost guaranteed to be some inconsistency with the floor. But it will get you as close as you can get, I think. And most people won't go that far. But if you do the level, the naked eye won't be able to detect if it's not level. That's what I was going for in the video. But you make a great (and very accurate) point. Thanks for the comment!
If you do not know this information already, you are officially still a rookie. Cheers! P.S. Everyone is a rookie at some point in time. Just don't stay there without learning and growing. That's all I'm saying. This video would have been great if you had pictures or video clips of all the problems, mistakes and issues that you witnessed.
Yep! This video is aimed squarely at rookies, for sure. And I actually have some pictures and videos of the kits I saw, but it was difficult to get clear shots without people in them, and even blurred out, I didn't feel good about putting my colleagues or their students on this video. I tried to approximate what I saw with my own drums, but - you're right - it would have been more effective to have the real deal. I am definitely a TH-cam rookie, but I'm working on learning and growing! Thanks for the comment!
I have been playing drums for 36 years this is super beginner stuff, who doesn’t set their bass drum spurs correctly? That and the floor Tom’s are the easiest thing to set, then the snare and finally Tom’s and cymbals. Where a lot of people fail is when they go for looks instead of ergonomics. But this video is way over explaining entry level concepts. Second thing your gig drums should be drums that you are ok with damaging not your collectors kit.
Thank you for your comment. I agree that these are beginner concepts. Like I said at the beginning of the video, I've seen things that (to me) required an extremely simple, clear, and detailed explanation. What seems obvious to an experienced drummer can be an enigma to the beginner. Thanks for watching!
As a self-taught drummer, I find myself a tad bit annoyed that mistakes like these get made to begin with. I guess I'm just glad I've never had these issues.
You missed the biggest pro tip.. The length of the spurs should be set so that when the beater is just touching the batter head, the shaft of the beater ends up being perpendicular to the floor. This removes wasted energy in your kick stroke. When the beater overextends the 90-degree point, it turns into wasted energy and becomes less efficient. This is a game changer approach.
Yep, I left that out. Good call! I’ll have to make a part 2. Thanks for the comment!
Very good advice.
U can eliminate this problem with the right beater too
Yeah, it’s so frustrating when I’m at the rehearsal studio and someone before me has the kick mounted with that angle. It kills my playing.
I just bend the beater shaft forward in a strong vice so the head twats the skin on the bass drum before you lose your 90deg effort of leverage energy..it's great if you like loose springs and a high foot pedal action.. 😊
I play dubble pedal on my set this is so true
As always, I can't agree hard enough. Same thing with the tom positioning: I bet I can tell by the way toms are mounted on the bassdrum whether the guy can play or not. At school almost no music teacher knows how to set up a kit correctly, but how could they know, they don't watch your channel! Excellent work, Sir!
Thank you! YES - about toms. I am in schools all the time, and the toms are the number one giveaway that there are other problems. I'm going to be making another video about that exact issue soon, specifically for band/school music teachers. Thanks for the comment!
Been abiding by these details since the beginning. It's amazing how common sense is not so common anymore.
I sometimes think this channel should be called, “Things you never thought you’d have to tell someone.”
You are spot-on, particularly about centering the logo. My reso head is printed with a badge with two vertical stripes, so it HAS to be straight! And you know what I use for a drum mat? A plain $9 6'x6' furniture moving blanket from Harbor Freight. I got sick and tire of having to roll up my previous drum rug at the end of a gig. The moving blanket does the same job, and at the end of the gig, I just fold it up in 15 seconds. And it takes up less space in the back of my SUV! It's lighter, too!
Great tip about the mat. But won't the bass drum spikes tear it up?
@@arturofernandez6088 Good question. The answer is no, because I have the rubber "feet" unscrewed far enough that the spikes are buried within the rubber. And I have had no trouble with the bass drum moving forward with this configuration.
Nice! I love this idea. Thanks for the comment!
@@ScottyDrake Thanks. I'm going to look into doing the same.
Centering the logo... please..
If you have a good rug and your pedal has velcro underneath you actually don’t need to tighten the pedal to the hoop at all. The bond between the velcro and the carpet is sursprisingly strong.
I just got a new DW pedal and the baseplate is HUGE. I was noticing that it could easily stand alone without being connected to the hoop. Good call! Thanks for the comment!
There is such a great tool on the market and thats a kind of bassdrumm stabilisator. Very easy to attach on the front side of the basedrumm with two screws. I am not a drummer but a guitar player but I have seen it in a few recording studios.
I’ll definitely check it out. Thanks for watching my channel, and thanks for the tip!
I play Ludwig and they have by far the best bass drum spur's. They have four per drum and their just one piece, on front they curve forward and on rear curve back. They also have nice large rubber feet on the ends. My drum goes nowhere at all, just love these spur's. Take Care
Agreed. I have one Ludwig kit, and the spurs are just one of the things I love about it. Thanks for the comment!
You must have an OLD Ludwig kit.... they haven't used that setup in years
Crazy. I just set my spurs on a brand new kit. I’m a self taught drummer and I’ve been drumming for 15 years so I had no idea what to do. In all my reasoning I did it all right. Thanks for this validating video. Wait… I think I still need to tighten up the set screws on the spurs. Anyway, thanks.
I'm glad it was validating! Thanks for the comment!
A Dixson bass drum lift keeps both rims off the floor and protects the rim. It also puts the beater in a better position for small drums.
Yeah! That’s a solid product. Thanks for the comment!
Good advice - especially for younger drummers. Another piece of equipment I’ve found recently that helps with bass drum creep is the kickstrap. It wraps around your throne base and then wraps underneath your kick pedal. If you play heel up (and hit hard)… I do both… it helps mitigate the kick drum from drifting away. 👍
Nice! I have seen the kickstrap, but never tried it. I need to give it a go. Thanks for the comment!
I also do the trick of putting something under the reso hoop for setting up the spurs! Makes things so much easier
I absolutely love easy, quick hacks like that. Thanks for the comment!
As always what an interesting and informative video. I agree on every point, spur adjustment with the front of the bass drum raised by one inch at the most is one I’ve used for all my drumming life. That’s a great tip on getting the logo head straight by attaching string to the two tension rods. Another great point is protecting the bass drum hoop from damage by the pedal, I’ve used hoop protectors for as long as I can remember, even 40 years back I used a beer mat torn in half which was better than nothing. I recently spent £400 on a pair of Yamaha RC hoops and there’s no way they wouldn’t be protected but a simple £5 hoop protector is a fraction of the cost compared to a damaged hoop! Another little thing I do is every time I change a head, when replacing the hoop I always line the claws up in exactly the same position on the hoop where they came off. Great video (can’t believe people carry the bass drum with the pedal still attached!) and by the way at 2:50 what brand and model is the little walnut finish bd & mounted tom (Yamaha tom holder) kit, it’s beautiful!
Thanks for the great comment! You make an excellent point about putting the claws in the same place each time. Consistency is key! The bass drum you're asking about is an 18" Ludwig Bubinga. I bought it used, and the previous owner had put the Yamaha tom mount on it. I love it. Sounds and looks great, and is a joy to play. Thanks again for stopping by!
ive left a double kick pedal on while gigging. never damaged a hoop ever. i crank mine super tight as well.🍻
As they say, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Thanks for the comment!
1) raising the front of the kick drum off the ground a little bit also places the batter head more at a 90° angle to the pedal beater so you don’t have to go past 90° with the beater.
2) the Kickstrap product does a great job from keeping your bass drum from sliding while taking pressure off the hoop and allowing you to not have to crank down the tension on the pedal clamping to the hoop. Also, since the strap attaches to your throne, you can quickly figure out the distance you will need from the bass drum pedal to your throne when quickly gauging set up space.
Agree 100% on both points. The Kickstrap is a killer product. As for the 90 degree pedal beater angle, I am actually struggling with my 18" kick. Since it's on a riser, I have to mount it a little further away from the drum to clear the rim (with the chain, etc.), and it goes past 90 when it hits the drum. Still working on a fix, because it takes a serious amount of adjustment every time I play that kit. Thanks for the comment!
Good advice, for beginners !
Thank you! I appreciate the comment!
5:15: can’t help but notice the dichotomy. You speak about getting the drum off the floor so it can vibrate/resonate - yet there’s that big pillow in the drum, to deaden those vibrations.
It's a matter of control. It's best to get the drum to resonate as much as possible given other factors like choice of drum heads, giving you a solid base to then tweak further. You can't really control the sound and how much you deadening you get if the floor is simply doing it for you
Nice catch! You make a good point. The pillow I'm using is a DW Pro-Cushion, and it's super lightweight. It's more designed to shorten the length of time that the heads resonate rather than dampen the shell. The effect is comparatively small. As with all things drum, it's never just one thing, but every little thing has an effect. Thanks for the comment!
Very nice and detailed explanation. I'll give a 👍🎼🥁💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Thank you!
I actually used a small level across the upper most lugs and adjusted the legs that way.
Perfect every time.
I’m a fan of using a level. Very simple, doesn’t take much time, and the result is perfect. Thanks for the comment!
To get the best feel, the bass drum should be raised so that the beater never has to go past vertical in order to hit the drum head.
Spurs don't always work that well, and the spikes can go through the rug and damage the floor underneath. Replacing the spurs' feet with KBrakes has been life-changing for me. They also make attachments that will keep your bass drum and hi-hat in place on a hard floor without a rug, although I cannot comment on how well they work.
Nice. I agree with you on all points. I've never tried one of the strap/attachments that you're talking about, but I think I need to. KBrakes look cool, gonna have to give them a shot. Thanks for the comment!
I would even take the bass drum high nerdy ness one step further and also adjust it so where when your bass drum beater hits the batter side it is exactly parallel at the impact point. This was taken from Dave Weckl and I have done this for years. Especially for pedals that do not have an adjustable cam.
Good call. Weckl is a great source for that. Thanks for the comment!
Agreed, just the tip is more than enough for me.
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You can use your iPhone as a level. Standard tool on every one called “Measure” - you can set your tom angles too. And it works for distance. Yer snare is always in the same spot. You only need to establish measurements once.
iPhone! That’s BRILLIANT. Thanks for the tip!
Ty, new drummer, needed this info
Glad you found it. Thanks for the comment!
I've had my spur length sorted for a few years now, but I can't believe I never though of the idea of using a level to set it, will definitely try tat method out the next time I've to adjust kick drum spurs
Thanks for the comment!
@@CommonSenseMusician Thanks for the content, I discovered your channel a few hours ago and I'm digging your stuff. A new subscriber!
The correct high of the spurs it depends on the beater, I use DW, Classic felt Danmar and Square Zoro model, all require different highs in order to hit correctly the drumhead.
100% agree. I’ll have to make a part 2, and go further in depth on that point. Thanks for the comment!
I agree with everything you say EXCEPT the spikes on the spurs. Even with carpets, I have damaged floors with these. The solution is simple, just recess them fully into the rubber feet and use a thin, plastic coated wire cable which slips around the foot pedal heel pad of the hi hat stand and the bass drum heel pad (I know that pedals are different, but my basic matching Yamaha pedals are perfect for this.) and also around the front two feet of the throne. I made my two cables (one loop on each end, they stay attached to the throne when packed). I spent less than $10 at the hardware store for a short cable of about 1/8" diameter and 4 u-clamps.) I can set up on bare floors or carpeted floors with no damage to them, plus the hi hat stand and bass drum stay permanently adjusted with no creeping. Set up is quick and easy.
Since I like my 18" bass drum beater to hit dead center on the head, I use a 2" Gibraltar riser. For my permanent adjustment, I elevated the front of the drum to be perfectly level (yes, use a level) from front to rear. Then I leveled the spurs from side to side. This little bit of elevation makes the little bass drum sound much bigger. The bass drum and riser stay attached in the soft case with plenty of room and the grip on the hoop is spread out in an arc with no damage to the hoop (the pedal grips onto the steel riser instead of the wood hoop). This initial set up is time consuming but it only has to be done once. Afterwards, the amount of time saved is amazing!
Now that you mention it, I have at least one drum that I actually double up the carpet/rug under the spurs. I went to a carpet store and bought some old samples (12 x 18) that I can thrown down under anything that might damage the floors. I have hardwood in my studio, and I try to be as careful with it as I can. Great point, and I love your solution. Very creative. I hope a lot of people read your comments, because you know what you're talking about! Thanks again for the comment!
@@CommonSenseMusician Thanks. I just did this by trial and error. I got tired of the bass drum and hi hat stand creeping away, and I sure regretted damaging floors. This just came to me almost by accident.
My spurs are so good that I can usually get away with playing on bare floors. In a pinch though I once used the floor mats out of my car lol
Dude my logo was crooked as hell last night at the gig and the crowds face was eye level with it. I rocked with it though lol
Man this channel has a good way about deeply explaining things other channels might overlook. Like the video about cymbal stands. I learned so much, even a old head like me.
One topic I’d like to see somebody cover is how to select cymbals that work well together for a kit.
Thanks for the kind words. I honestly feel great if even one person learns one thing, so I really appreciate your comment. I will admit to having used car floormats a time or too, as well. Hey, if it works, it works, right?
I'll put cymbal selection on my list of videos to make! Thank you!
Another great and informative video, thank you!!
You are kind. Thanks for watching!
When attaching the beater pedal to the bass drum, look for center, or the positioning guide as you demonstrated, but, in addition, as you begin to tighten the clamp, watch the pedal towers. At the moment the clamp makes contact, the pedal will often shift slightly to the left, or right. When this happens, move the clamp, just a bit, toward the direction of lean. Repeat until the clamp doesn't change the vertical angle of the pedal at all. This provides the largest available contact area for the clamp, reduces "point pressure" on the hoop, directs maximum energy to the drum head during play, properly aligns with the front spurs and makes for a more stable, secure setup.
This is a KILLER tip. Thank you!
Good morning, Mr. Common Sense Musician, thank you for yet another entertaining and informative show. All the little things can add up to a very important big thing, and you did a good job addressing that theme.❤️🙏👏❤️🙏👏❤️
Hey! Thanks again for watching. I’m glad it was informative!
Well done.
I keep a level in my stick bag for this exact reason. I also like to get real nerdy and make sure my kit is centered on stage
Oh, yeah. Stage position is critical. Thanks for the comment!
That's a good idea to use the rubber band to help get the logo level!
Thanks! Glad you found my video!
If you play a pedal with an eccentric cam or, even "worse", a direct drive, the angle of the head will affect your pedalfeeling massively. Therefore you should try to always have the heads exactly perpendicular to the surface the kit stands on, so the height of your hoopclamps lower part is exactly the height you want to lift your bassdrum with the spurs.
I have a small "spirit level" - device (right word?) for that adjustment.
EDIT: Okay, in a later part of the video there's the level, but I would also use it in the other dimension, holding the level at the head.
Definitely something I’ll have to mention in a future video. Thanks for the comment!
I liked your vid although none of this info was new to me. I follow all those 'rules' except the logo. I use Ludwig drums currently but with any kit I use (that still has the drum company logo head) I like the logo vertical rather than horizontal. Just a quirky little thing I like to do.
That’s cool! I love it. Sounds like you’re thoughtful about your setup and look. Thanks for the comment!
Or ddrum already vertical
Having a Kick Block 🧱, or any similar product, is also helpful to prevent the bass drum from sliding away if the spurs don't work well
Great tips! Thanks for sharing!🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Subscribed
Thanks for the sub!
Also if your bass is off the ground to much. Is will make a felt beater wear uneven over time. It wears at a angle because of the friction everytime you hit you beater against the drum.
Good point. Thanks for the comment!
There are two types of drummers. There are those who do this. Measuring all of this stuff, setting seat to a precision height, elbows bent to a perfect degree. All drums at measured heights. Sticks held at a specific balance point. This is all in your mind. I mean, this guy is stretching strings? THEN, there is the drummer who is so adept with his hands, that it does not MATTER what is in front of him…he ROCKS! The perfect height will ONLY really work, for the snare drum, if you sit like a piano player…don’t get me started on THAT. Drummers reach and move in huge arcs. HOPEFULLY! I knew a drummer who had some disabilities. Once he had no sticks at a sudden, impromptu jam. He LITERALLY played with antique, curved WOODEN SPOONS! Because he was such a good drummer, it sounded the same. If you create TOO MANY set up requirements, you are DEPENDENT upon these BARRIERS that you yourself created. Just LEARN THE FEEL. You’ll know if you’re doing it right, it will sound good. Same with all of the rudiments. They are great if you can make it work. But if you need to change the laws, feel free. As long as you can do what needs to be done, and it sounds great. Where did the rules come from? Some guy made them up, for teaching others. Who is to say that this is the GOSPEL? Break the rules. Create some NEW rudiments. There can be more than 40! Guys with LONG upper legs need to play differently that guys with short uppers (hams). Long shins, SO different from guys with short shins. See what I mean? Be ready to experiment.
You slayed that
SO slay! Thank you!
The hole positon I found is best at about 4:30 as it gives the right amount of low end and not too much.Pretty common I would think.
That’s about where mine is, too.
Very good advices! Thanks for that
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the comment!
Some of this is why i cant let anyone " help" me load in or out. They dont care about the little details that make a big difference.
Right!
I sure like this guy
Many thanks!
In theory you could attach the bass drum pedal to the wrong side of the drum to set the height.... never thought of this before!
Yes! I've been doing this for years. It works really well.
BRILLIANT. Thanks for the comment and great idea!
I've been a drummer for 20 years and i didnt know people lift their bassdrums using their spurs. I mean, i do it with small kicks like the 16" i use now, but i always placed bigger drums on the ground and THEN adjust the spurs so the hit the ground.
In my experience, most people have the kick off the ground a little bit, but it comes down to how it sounds and feels for YOU. If you like what you're getting, I say keep doing it. But it might be worth a little experimentation. Thanks for the comment!
The older I get, more I play, more I obsess over the fundamentals like this. You’d be amazed how long people can play without really learning this stuff.
I couldn't agree more. Truth be told, this is why I started a TH-cam channel - to try and help a few people out there. Thanks for your comment!
Maybe also do a detailed video of how to lift a BD from the floor like a pro
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I disagree whit having the logo straight, sometimes heads had a premade hole to put the mic on, and maybe the sound operator wants it to be right or left depending where you put the snare drum to help prevent bleed. Sorry my English, hope you can understand it😅
Your English is just fine! I think if you have a reason to mount your bass drum head a different way, you absolutely do it. I was mostly addressing players who aren’t paying attention or are not putting in a little bit of effort to get the logo straight. Thanks for the comment!
Balance. Good thing I’m a Libra! ⚖️
Ha!
Do you also recommend having the beater slightly off-center? Thanks.
I do have the beater slightly off center, but many players put it right in the center. It comes down to how it feels and sounds. I really like how mine sounds off-center. Thanks for the comment!
I got one of those cheap puzzle foam mats. I think it was $20 bux.
These are my favorite because you can silver sharpie them to spike where the stands and pedals go. You can also hose them off after your lead singer spills a beer on it. I carry them around stacked up in a 50 gallon trash bag just in case they end up dirty.
@@brandoncoffey3449 they’re great. They last forever. Hose off the gunk and off you go again. No space in the van & they stick to linoleum. Not every carpet stays put.
That’s a great idea. Thanks for the tip!
I like the topic you're on, but my bass drum is from the 1960's and the spurs are telescope type and are angled at a low angle, thus it's almost useless... but it's original.
Yeah, the vintage drums are a different story, for sure. Thanks for the comment!
I'm a big fan of hard tile floors for drum recordings. The rug is practical, but the drums sound better when the floor is reflective. Rugs dampen the floor reflections too much imo
Too much lift kills the low end and may damage the hoops. Set your kick level with the floor - mount the pedal and use a level to set up the legs.
Solid advice. Thanks for your comment!
Where did you go for state music festival?
Provo High School in Utah. I am a high school band director.
Ah, I was just wondering because Montana also had state music festival this weekend I want to say
Yep! It’s that time of year!
Hi, not sure if you will reply since I'm really late to this video and im kind of panicking. I don't know drum vocabulary that well but I'll try my best to explain-- on my bass drum legs (i think they're called spurs) the spiky thing at the end goes in the rubber usually. But for one of the legs on my bass drum the spiky thing went through the rubber and idk if it broke or not but now my bass drum slides on that side and left a massive line that it engraved in my floor. I tried fixing it but nothing worked, im not sure if im stupid or if it's broken.
Edit: turns out im just stupid. thanks anyway!!
Man, I'm sorry about the new "engraving" in your floor. That's a tough way to get an education. Glad you figured it out! Thanks for watching and for the comment.
Very well done, smart, commonsense and important. I have studied, physics and engineering design. So, you know what An anal nightmare I am around drums. You nailed this. Another thing, keep your gear wiped down and clean . Stay awesome everyone.
Thank you so much! I am glad it is resonating with a few people.
what is going on with your hi-hats? I'm very curious
Nice catch! I was filming another couple of videos when I made this one. My hats are from this video: th-cam.com/video/-5Po31bdYiw/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CommonSenseMusician
agree on every point
Thank you!
Hi. Just to know. Your spurs are dw. But are short o long ones? I wanna replace mine with dw spurs.
They are the stock spurs that came on the drum when I bought it, so I actually don’t know. Good question! If I had to guess, I’d say long because it’s a 22” bass drum.
I saw a photograph of Elvin Jones nailing his front bass drum hoop to the stage. Yikes!
What! That's insane! I would love to see that photo.
@@CommonSenseMusician You can Google it. Type "elvin jones nailed his front hoop to the stage" then go to images. It's the first one.
That is amazing to see. Crazy. Thanks!
You're welcome.
It just kills me, how one can not mention that you can’t have four points touching a level plane, only three. This applies especially for hi-hat stands with three legs. I know some come with the little spur anchors on the back of the foot pedal itself, and that suggests you should lower that part until it meets the ground; but that causes the weight of the whole thing divide through the four parts. One would believe, well that gives more stability; well it doesn’t. By making contact with the center part (the pedal itself) you’re reducing, ever so slightly, the weight on the surrounding legs, and subsequently also reducing their capacity of “gripping” to the ground.
Interesting point. It’s worth experimenting with that factor, especially on hi-hat. Thank you for the thoughtful comment!
OMG, while it was great to sit down at a kit again after months of my drums in storage it was disappointing to find that the kick drum was stuffed full of pillows and felt like kicking a cardboard box, muffles taped to every tom and the snare with the bottom head on the snare too loose to sing. Oh well, at least the metals were resonant and the drums tonal enough to groove with the band.
Hopefully you can get it sounding the way you like. Thanks for the comment!
@@CommonSenseMusician If I ever get enough work to afford to get my kit out of storage! I don't recommend being a white guy trying to find work right now. The tilt to hire anyone but me is real and the evidence is above deck if you look in the right places. That said, not my kit so I can't just pop the heads off and take out pillows and tune it. My kick drum booms loud and clear and my toms sing, my snare pops like a firecracker cause I looked into how to tune them. Anyway, my pleasure! Your channel has lots of great info.
I actually discovered on my own before anyone told me to set my spurs that way. It improved the tone greatly, as well as removing the blanket I had stuffed in it.
This helps me understand better how to set them up, but I got close. Certainly I would never pick up the kick drum without taking the pedal off! That would obviously put undue pressure on many important metal parts.
Always take gaffer/duct tape with you to a gig. If you have to play a crappy kit on a shiny wooden floor, tape your pedal down...not ideal, but should hold the bass drum steady enough to get you through
Yes! Gaff tape is an essential. Thanks for the comment!
Gaff tape.. always keep gaff tape and a rug with you. Duct tape will leave a sticky residue on the equipment and floor and have seen others pull up some of the floor finish.
MAPEX DRUMS have small notches, on the extension legs, that you can use as your PERFECT SETTING so you don’t have to guess “Are my spurs set evenly???” I don’t know why all drum manufacturers don’t use this technology 😢😢😢😢🥁🥁🥁🥁🥁🥁
Seriously! Mapex’s design team has been killing it for a long time. Very underrated product line. Thanks for the comment!
😬 *"...UUTTT-OHH..."* 🤔 SOMEONE..., *_DIDN'T_* FOLLOW, 😧 his own advice w/regards to having a straight 📐 *_"LOGO"_* ON HIS "Reso" side kick drum head!!! YUPPER.., A CROOKED *_"REMO"_* logo for our CHANNEL HOST!! 😨 MY-OH-MY!!
😂 *ANYWAY KEEP ON KEEPING ON BROTHER DRUMMER!!!!!* 😎🤘🏼
Yep! I noticed that as soon as I put that string on my bass drum. Good eyes!
@@CommonSenseMusician No worries!!! I was just messing with ya on that!! HOWEVER... I can be a bit of a stickler about things like that with my own set(s.) Although, I was lucky enough, back when I had a drum tech, to have one who was like a "whole lotta" anal about that stuff, making me ALWAYS LOOK GOOD, from an aesthetic's point of view. And with respect to this video, I am very surprised that you were able to catch all those drum mistakes, I was always under the impression that drummers took great pride in not only their craft, but also the little things, that you pointed out as well. Anyway, I appreciate your being a good sport and a cool dude with me calling you out on the crooked reso head, as the world needs a lot of people who aren't always uptight about stuff!!! 😎🤘🏼
Ha! That’s awesome. Yeah, my videos are mostly aimed at newer players who just haven’t been taught the basics yet. When I first started teaching I was blown away by all the things I didn’t think I’d ever have to tell my students. But it’s all good. We’re all still learning at some level. Thanks again!
You ool and your straight logos or logo lined with badge. Sure my bass drum head is straight cuz im not dumb, but i don't line it up with the badge cuz im not a psychopath
🤣 Thanks for the comment!
This video compete with "How to Tune a Drum " and (2) Where to Hit the Drum" . Should made into a comic book ....oops sorry; a "graphic novel".
I love this plan. Better have good illustrations, though!
You know neighbors I get a kick out of these drummers also that used pillows blankets sleeping bags tape mufflers it's hilarious I used none of above straight up skin on drums is the tuning process of the resignation of the g note
My last band I played a wide open kick for rock music but now that I’m doing country, I’ve been experimenting with a pillow again. Working pretty good so far but I had to pull out a bunch of the stuffing to get it sounding good. I agree that a lot of kick muffling people do gets goofy. But, it can be done tastefully and with a great tone. Depends on what you’re going for.
I've always believed that a wide open drum with nothing on the heads or in the shell is the best way to go. That said, I've experimented with a lot of different products on/in my bass drum to get the sound I'm after. I envy your g note! Thanks for the comment!
@allenmitchell09 - I 100% agree. It gets crazy, but if it's what somebody wants, I say go for it. To each their own.
All I know is when I played last night my kick thumped like mfer! Which it was mic'd. And the tone I was getting was a nice deep thud! and the head response is satisfying to play on. I also to further clarify, I have essentially an EMAD batter head with the ring and all. which adds to the tone I'm getting greatly. I say essentially bc it was cut off a real EMAD head and I glued it onto a fresh remo head. I know I'm ghetto lol.
@@allenmitchell09 That works, though!
Dude ....if these people couldn't figure out how to use the standard hardware on a bass drum, they should maybe switch to the harmonica or something 🥱
Seriously, my videos are my release for things I never thought I’d have to explain when I started teaching.
Using a level on a round object 😂
Right?! On my bass drum, it sits on two tension rods and doesn’t actually contact the shell. But it looks funny, for sure. Thanks for the comment!
Seems odd as all heck. Especially if the hardware is mounted incorrectly. As a Carpenter by trade, the torpedo level is extremely sensitive instrument. I Use it on my motorcycle also. Can never trust the ground or floor.
In commercial construction, we measure down off the acoustical ceiling which is set by a laser. ( sugar...where was I ).
@@edwardkaminsky8142 Yep. I thought of that, too. In my studio I'm on an LVP floor over concrete, so there's almost guaranteed to be some inconsistency with the floor. But it will get you as close as you can get, I think. And most people won't go that far. But if you do the level, the naked eye won't be able to detect if it's not level. That's what I was going for in the video. But you make a great (and very accurate) point. Thanks for the comment!
If you do not know this information already, you are officially still a rookie.
Cheers!
P.S. Everyone is a rookie at some point in time. Just don't stay there without learning and growing. That's all I'm saying. This video would have been great if you had pictures or video clips of all the problems, mistakes and issues that you witnessed.
Yep! This video is aimed squarely at rookies, for sure. And I actually have some pictures and videos of the kits I saw, but it was difficult to get clear shots without people in them, and even blurred out, I didn't feel good about putting my colleagues or their students on this video. I tried to approximate what I saw with my own drums, but - you're right - it would have been more effective to have the real deal. I am definitely a TH-cam rookie, but I'm working on learning and growing! Thanks for the comment!
Nothing but common sense.
That’s the goal!
I have been playing drums for 36 years this is super beginner stuff, who doesn’t set their bass drum spurs correctly? That and the floor Tom’s are the easiest thing to set, then the snare and finally Tom’s and cymbals. Where a lot of people fail is when they go for looks instead of ergonomics. But this video is way over explaining entry level concepts. Second thing your gig drums should be drums that you are ok with damaging not your collectors kit.
Thank you for your comment. I agree that these are beginner concepts. Like I said at the beginning of the video, I've seen things that (to me) required an extremely simple, clear, and detailed explanation. What seems obvious to an experienced drummer can be an enigma to the beginner.
Thanks for watching!
Please don’t muffle anything on a drum set. The bass drum pedal will tell you if it’s placed correctly.
Depends on the sound you’re going for, but I agree in general. Let the drum be what it is. Thanks for the comment!
Muffling is stupid. Put a 421 in front of it. The front of the drum should be 2 inches up. Do what Peart, Copeland, and Cobham do.
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Muffling is determined by the song. Period the end. If you aren't pliable there you are a one trick pony. All those guys use muffling also.
Actually, they don't. Period. The end. @@morbidmanmusic
As a self-taught drummer, I find myself a tad bit annoyed that mistakes like these get made to begin with. I guess I'm just glad I've never had these issues.
This is literally why I started a channel. I'm making videos of all the things I never thought I'd have to say to a student. Thanks for the comment!