I put a Lockmeister on my guitar about 2 ¹/² years ago. Greattech, super high quality. All the issues I had were caused by a mistake in installation. The version have also had shims but only to change radius from (if my memory serves me well) from 16" to 14".
I have a Tele installed Floyd Rose. I find the radius not matching at all. I custom made a thin plate with different thickness to compensate the radius and put it under the saddles. It works great.
hmm, I may be purchasing one of these for my Schecter soon. It has the Floyd Special Hot Rod and Ive been looking at the Floyd Original but didnt want to deal with the shims to get it to a 14" radius. This solves a lot of the issues! Thanks!
I've had Schaller lockmiester trems fitted to two of my guitars. I love them. I've got an Ibanez RG550 from the late 1980's, I bought it second hand in 1991. I liked the guitar, but it always sounded very bright, and had no sustain, it just sounded dead. But since I've had the trem changed, it sounds a million times better! And I've had the trem fitted to my Charvel as well, and I love that as well. I wish I could afford to have more of those terms fitted to my guitars!
Thank you for these precious informations, so that I could order a bridge from Schaller in 14' radius (Ibanez Wizard II neck). I will feed back when installed! 👍
I'm glad to know this exists, but Kahler bridges exist. I Just wanted to point that out. I recently got my first Kahler bridge and am just so impressed. It's just leaps and bounds better than a Floyd. To anyone that hasn't tried one I can only recommend it so much. The saddles can be adjusted in three axises - vertical, horizontal, and lateral. They are comparably priced to the LockMeister too (and Chinese knock offs exist if you are a 6 sting player). That is all haha
I love this ! I have always hated the ofr 10" garbage I tend to go with flatter radius 14" is the smallest i like i am a 20 inch person and i think it stems from learning and playing nothing but a classical guitar for the first 5 years. I will certainly be getting one of these. I am surprised floyds have changed so little in the last 40 years. I cant wait to see a bridge that fixes all the problems of the floyd from string tension/bends/double stops to drilling and routing the radius dilema a flutter dial so you can get your flutters perfect or not at all.
Schaller Lockmeister tremolo is really much more versatile than the OFR. However, for guitars with the 12"-16" compound radius fretboard, which are produced by such big guitar builders like Jackson and Schecter, the bridge should be about 18" radius for the best playability. I hope Schaller will add 18" radius option for their Lockmeister tremolo soon.
@@bretbrown7347 yup exactly, that’s the one I just ordered for my Charvel MIM San Dimas🤘R3 nut 12” and 16” bridge. I’m sure it’s gonna play like a dream!
I have a Lockmeister 6 for my Charvel So Cal. 16" bridge & 12" nut radius. I still feel, after adjustments, that I need to shim both the E strings. No matter what, I still have fret buzz. Got the shims, haven't installed them yet. Tuning wise, it's always in tune.
I've been looking into kahlers a lot lately. Never tried one, but if it stays in tune, it seems like a much better solution for a trem. I've used floyd roses for a long time but they do get annoying. First, like any tremolo with springs on the back, you gotta gut the guitar's body. If you want to make a guitar which is compatible with fender's pickup spacing, you're gonna have to put the studs way too close to the pickup routing, which can end badly down the line with softer woods. Then there's all the radius stuff. The Kahler can adjust the saddles up and down, back and forth and even change the string spacing, doesn't have a knife edge to wear out and has a much cleaner installation. The top shelf version costs an arm and a leg though.
I've always been confused as to why if guitar builders would like never say they radius every nut to 10" for every guitar, why would that be OK for the Floyd? I'm likely going to order only from Schaller going forward because Floyd has removed the "Made in Germany" stamp from their Original series, so it'll be difficult to know if that's what you're actually getting.
@@dale1289 Hmmm. That seems odd. Makes me not trust that they're actually building it there any more or something. It's very weird. Why build decades upon this is Schiller Made in Germany quality to relegate it to a note on the box that'll get tossed?
this was the biggest problem of floy rose and schaller... it was never possible to find the 2 components that had the specs the customer needed... you had to buy the bridge and in combo you got a nut with a 10" radius some were 12" but you never knew what you were buying... that's why i relied on gotoh. it was so frustrating to go to the FR and schaller site and only get 41mm NUTs with 10" radius there was no other choice in the last few years, ... personally the R3 is my favourite, i have an esp from 2007 and at the capo it's 43,4mm, they fitted an R1 as standard... it was obvious that it was too small but probably there were no other variants available at the time, and i've seen this on many guitars... and finally now on the official schaller website this has become clear and simple... why did it take so long? all's well that ends well
So what radius tremolo would I get if I have a compound radius fretboard I have a Jackson from the 80s the trem has seen better days. I know the compound is 12 to 16. So in other words I should get a 12 in radius nut and a 16 in radius saddles correct?
The bridge should be about 17" or 18" radius. That's the way the conical fretboard performs the best. The fretboard radius raises for 1.33" by every quarter of the scale: 12" at the nut, 16" at the 24th fret, (16-12)/3= 1.33. So, 16+1.33= 17.33.
yes correct, simple mat, you want 12 at nut, you can chose R1 or R3 ( which has wider E to e ) and the bridge as to be 16 " no other complex math formula to do :)
When I replaced my 1987 Jacksons bridge , the lock meister, was what I got ,I didn't consider the nut radius,great tip
Great tremolo, as all Shaller hardware. Very well manufactured and very durable painting.
There have been bridge saddle shims for Floyds for years to allow for different necks with various radius'
Yeah, we know that, but the FR nut has always been a 10” radius only. Until now. And with this new system, you don’t have to fuss with silly shims.
I did not know the lockmeister offered those options. the lockmeister has been out for a few years. thanks for the info
Brand new for 2023.
I put a Lockmeister on my guitar about 2 ¹/² years ago. Greattech, super high quality. All the issues I had were caused by a mistake in installation. The version have also had shims but only to change radius from (if my memory serves me well) from 16" to 14".
Yup, I only use the Schaller lockmeister these days. Quality is top notch. Never any issues.
I’d just like to point out that Schaller was the company that made the original Floyd bridges for Floyd Rose. As far as I know they still do.
Yep, made in Germany. Just ordered a black one with R2 nut from Amazon for $197. I'm done with the crappy QC Korean Floyd Rose junk.
I have a Tele installed Floyd Rose. I find the radius not matching at all. I custom made a thin plate with different thickness to compensate the radius and put it under the saddles. It works great.
hmm, I may be purchasing one of these for my Schecter soon. It has the Floyd Special Hot Rod and Ive been looking at the Floyd Original but didnt want to deal with the shims to get it to a 14" radius. This solves a lot of the issues! Thanks!
I've had Schaller lockmiester trems fitted to two of my guitars. I love them. I've got an Ibanez RG550 from the late 1980's, I bought it second hand in 1991. I liked the guitar, but it always sounded very bright, and had no sustain, it just sounded dead. But since I've had the trem changed, it sounds a million times better! And I've had the trem fitted to my Charvel as well, and I love that as well. I wish I could afford to have more of those terms fitted to my guitars!
Which charvel did you put the lockmeister to?
I have a model 2 and Im not sure which tremolo I should get
Thank you for these precious informations, so that I could order a bridge from Schaller in 14' radius (Ibanez Wizard II neck). I will feed back when installed! 👍
Sorry, it is 16'' 🙂
I'm glad to know this exists, but Kahler bridges exist. I Just wanted to point that out. I recently got my first Kahler bridge and am just so impressed. It's just leaps and bounds better than a Floyd. To anyone that hasn't tried one I can only recommend it so much. The saddles can be adjusted in three axises - vertical, horizontal, and lateral. They are comparably priced to the LockMeister too (and Chinese knock offs exist if you are a 6 sting player). That is all haha
My only gripe with Kahlers is the intonation adjustment screw. They are a pain to adjust with the strings installed.
@@HighlineGuitars That's a fair point. The whole thing is so wonderfully over engineered you'd think they could have a fix for that haha
I have to know, what is going on with the bridge on the guitar hanging to your immediate left?
www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803324848118.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.25.4dd81802efEOeH&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
@@HighlineGuitarsoh ok, interesting, thanks Chris. Those "handscrews" give it a really unique look.
The lockmeister is a fab system..it isn't new though. It's been available (with multiple radius options) since 2012
NO! What I described in this video was introduced this year!!!
Different radii for compound fret boards.
I love this ! I have always hated the ofr 10" garbage I tend to go with flatter radius 14" is the smallest i like i am a 20 inch person and i think it stems from learning and playing nothing but a classical guitar for the first 5 years. I will certainly be getting one of these. I am surprised floyds have changed so little in the last 40 years. I cant wait to see a bridge that fixes all the problems of the floyd from string tension/bends/double stops to drilling and routing the radius dilema a flutter dial so you can get your flutters perfect or not at all.
Set my reminder.
Schaller Lockmeister tremolo is really much more versatile than the OFR. However, for guitars with the 12"-16" compound radius fretboard, which are produced by such big guitar builders like Jackson and Schecter, the bridge should be about 18" radius for the best playability. I hope Schaller will add 18" radius option for their Lockmeister tremolo soon.
I doubt there would be enough demand to justify making them. It would be easier and more accurate to shim the saddles to get the radius you want.
Just buy shims and do it yourself
seems like you could get a 12" radius nut and a 16" radius trem and that should take care of the compound radius, no?
@@bretbrown7347 yup exactly, that’s the one I just ordered for my Charvel MIM San Dimas🤘R3 nut 12” and 16” bridge. I’m sure it’s gonna play like a dream!
I have a Lockmeister 6 for my Charvel So Cal. 16" bridge & 12" nut radius. I still feel, after adjustments, that I need to shim both the E strings. No matter what, I still have fret buzz. Got the shims, haven't installed them yet. Tuning wise, it's always in tune.
Small update to this - They now offer custom radius saddle sets for around $80
I've been looking into kahlers a lot lately. Never tried one, but if it stays in tune, it seems like a much better solution for a trem. I've used floyd roses for a long time but they do get annoying. First, like any tremolo with springs on the back, you gotta gut the guitar's body. If you want to make a guitar which is compatible with fender's pickup spacing, you're gonna have to put the studs way too close to the pickup routing, which can end badly down the line with softer woods. Then there's all the radius stuff. The Kahler can adjust the saddles up and down, back and forth and even change the string spacing, doesn't have a knife edge to wear out and has a much cleaner installation. The top shelf version costs an arm and a leg though.
Thanks Chris
Why didn't Eddie think of this? I miss him soo much! RIP EVH
I've always been confused as to why if guitar builders would like never say they radius every nut to 10" for every guitar, why would that be OK for the Floyd?
I'm likely going to order only from Schaller going forward because Floyd has removed the "Made in Germany" stamp from their Original series, so it'll be difficult to know if that's what you're actually getting.
@@dale1289 Hmmm. That seems odd. Makes me not trust that they're actually building it there any more or something. It's very weird. Why build decades upon this is Schiller Made in Germany quality to relegate it to a note on the box that'll get tossed?
this was the biggest problem of floy rose and schaller... it was never possible to find the 2 components that had the specs the customer needed...
you had to buy the bridge and in combo you got a nut with a 10" radius some were 12" but you never knew what you were buying... that's why i relied on gotoh. it was so frustrating to go to the FR and schaller site and only get 41mm NUTs with 10" radius there was no other choice in the last few years, ... personally the R3 is my favourite, i have an esp from 2007 and at the capo it's 43,4mm, they fitted an R1 as standard... it was obvious that it was too small but probably there were no other variants available at the time, and i've seen this on many guitars... and finally now on the official schaller website this has become clear and simple... why did it take so long? all's well that ends well
hey bro, my name is Lalo and i´m your new follower. I´m Interesting on bass guitar neck thru. How can i contact you?
Sorry, but I no longer accept custom commissions unless you're a super famous guitarist who makes an offer I can't refuse.
🙂
So what radius tremolo would I get if I have a compound radius fretboard I have a Jackson from the 80s the trem has seen better days. I know the compound is 12 to 16. So in other words I should get a 12 in radius nut and a 16 in radius saddles correct?
The bridge should be about 17" or 18" radius. That's the way the conical fretboard performs the best. The fretboard radius raises for 1.33" by every quarter of the scale: 12" at the nut, 16" at the 24th fret, (16-12)/3= 1.33. So, 16+1.33= 17.33.
I would ask Schaller before pulling the trigger.
yes correct, simple mat, you want 12 at nut, you can chose R1 or R3 ( which has wider E to e ) and the bridge as to be 16 " no other complex math formula to do :)