Hp5 can be rated as low as iso 50, and for night time photography, whatever film stock you’re using it’s a matter of practice and self judging of the light that will produce a good image. You cannot overexpose the highlights with 2 stops of overexposure with film neither, highlights can easily be dropped in post, but you cannot bring back shadow details if they are absent. When shooting film you always want to expose for the shadows, not the highlights. At night it’s a bit different of course because it’s the most contrasty it gets naturally, but the same principle applies I’m afraid. You still need to expose for the shadows, but develop for the highlights, and that’s why it’s actually common to rate a film lower so that the highlights aren’t as contrasty on the negative. Lower iso create flatter images and a flat image is easy to adjust, but a very contrasty one doesn’t have the same latitude for editing. Using a 35mm roll isn’t the best for understanding how night photography with film works because you’ve got to make so many exposures to fill a roll. The best way to practice is actually choosing one area, or about 3 very good compositions with something really interesting to photograph and do bracketing. That means taking multiple exposures of the same subject using different settings, and taking notes, that’s how you get your first great night shot, and know what works on paper, and from there practicing judging the light with the naked eye will simply make you a more decent photographer. Judging the light by the glance of the eye is everything and before you get to the night you already have to master the daylight.
Expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights - so target the shadows to around zone IV, and cut development by 20 percent to keep the highlights from blowing out - or look into developing with something like Diafine. Diafine lasts a good long time and is a compensating developer.
Interesting that you consider HP5 to be contrasty at box speed (although of course that depends in part on the developer). Although if the comparison is Kentmere 400, then, I suppose HP5 has some contrast. Great photography!
Cool photos! I do have to try B&W at night. Nikons, particularly the F2, FE, FM, etc. had 60/40 center-weighted meters; 60% of the reading from that central 12% circle in the center, 40% from the surrounding area. The F3 had an even stronger weighting towards that circle, something like 75/25. Not sure about your FG…
Hp5 can be rated as low as iso 50, and for night time photography, whatever film stock you’re using it’s a matter of practice and self judging of the light that will produce a good image. You cannot overexpose the highlights with 2 stops of overexposure with film neither, highlights can easily be dropped in post, but you cannot bring back shadow details if they are absent.
When shooting film you always want to expose for the shadows, not the highlights. At night it’s a bit different of course because it’s the most contrasty it gets naturally, but the same principle applies I’m afraid. You still need to expose for the shadows, but develop for the highlights, and that’s why it’s actually common to rate a film lower so that the highlights aren’t as contrasty on the negative. Lower iso create flatter images and a flat image is easy to adjust, but a very contrasty one doesn’t have the same latitude for editing.
Using a 35mm roll isn’t the best for understanding how night photography with film works because you’ve got to make so many exposures to fill a roll. The best way to practice is actually choosing one area, or about 3 very good compositions with something really interesting to photograph and do bracketing.
That means taking multiple exposures of the same subject using different settings, and taking notes, that’s how you get your first great night shot, and know what works on paper, and from there practicing judging the light with the naked eye will simply make you a more decent photographer.
Judging the light by the glance of the eye is everything and before you get to the night you already have to master the daylight.
Love this video. The photo at 7:09 is my personal fav. Dig it!
Thank you so much!
Love learning new things about my favorite b&w stock.
Let’s goooooooo! HP5 is the way to go in my opinion, you made it look 🔥🔥 even dodging the weather!
Thank you so much! You just can't trust the weather I guess, haha.
Expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights - so target the shadows to around zone IV, and cut development by 20 percent to keep the highlights from blowing out - or look into developing with something like Diafine. Diafine lasts a good long time and is a compensating developer.
Interesting that you consider HP5 to be contrasty at box speed (although of course that depends in part on the developer). Although if the comparison is Kentmere 400, then, I suppose HP5 has some contrast. Great photography!
Damn I love your photos😍😍
Thank you so much!
I love shooting night as well, don’t do black and white too often, as I love the shifts you get on color film. Andy’s is good stuff!
Hp5 is awesome at night at box speed it's the best black & white film there is
Love the videos🙏🏼
Cool photos! I do have to try B&W at night.
Nikons, particularly the F2, FE, FM, etc. had 60/40 center-weighted meters; 60% of the reading from that central 12% circle in the center, 40% from the surrounding area. The F3 had an even stronger weighting towards that circle, something like 75/25. Not sure about your FG…
Thank you! Those numbers sound right for the FG from my limited experience.
Sick stuff! I have a roll I haven't been sure what to do with. Night stuff might be cool 👀
What is HP5?
A fantastic and extremely versatile black and white film stock by an English company called Ilford
Ilford hp5 is my favorite b&w Film stock