Thanks so much for this awesome video. I am a newbie and the dealer and his mechanic didn't do a great job explaining to me how to do this. Thanks very much for the great instructions! A thousand thumbs up!
Thank you for the great review. We had orientation to all of this at pick up, but seeing this again, in a well-explained and visually well-produced video really makes us feel better about using it.
I wish I knew this when I got the camper! I could not figure out how to use the pry bar tool and wound up using a rubber mallet to get the sway arms in place. I do not have a power jack and did not latch the ball did not lift the truck with the hand crank. After watching this video it very easy to hook up my new Forest River camper trailer now.
Great Video ... on the GREATEST Hitch!!! If I were to add anything, it would be about the unlikely situation where you are either trying to couple/uncouple where the trailer and tow vehical are not approximately level, or if you can not raise the tongue jack high enough to loosen the spring bars. I would suggest: A.) When vehicales are not level ... uncouple on level ground, prior to un/coupling; or B.) If you can not loosen the spring bars ... you may not be getting enough hight from your tounge jack. In this case, it may be necessary to use blocking (preferably a sincle, large 4”x6”x?” block of wook, or two) in order to give the tongue jack more “travel” hight to loosen the spring bars enough. Thanks! LOVE MY Equil-i-lizer 1200 ... the Greatest Hitch Ever!!!
Thanks for the compliment We’re glad you love your Equal-i-zer hitch. Great advice, thanks for the comment. Have you tried a Fastway Flip [www.fastwaytrailer.com/flip-jack-foot] automatic jack foot? It’s super fast and easy, saves you about 50 cranks every time you hitch up or unhitch, and gives you an extra 6” of length on the jack.
I'm new to this hitch system. I recently purchased a 2018 forest river heritage glen and have this new E2 system. We took it out this past weekend. One issue I had was removing the bars. The release pins didn't release the bars. What am I doing wrong. I hope it's something simple. Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks in advance..
My old TT had an E4 and I loved it, but sold it with the trailer. Lance dealer talked me into the Anderson, which has a lot to like, but lacks the sway control I am accustomed to. I put a new E4 on and am once again a happy camper!...
This is the same as when using the chain style. What I do like about this setup is there is no guessing on how many links of the chain you should use. I am upgrading to one of these for this trailer season. You guys are spoiled with the power jack :-) You get a good work out doing it manually
thank you for the great video. i bought my new equalizer hitch and ball from camping world in nc heading to ky monday to buy a new travel trailer. i would have bought the tt in my home state of n.c but the dealer beat all the dealers in nc by more then 5k.
Awesome video. Quick question though man, when you unhitch, what do you do with spring arms? Do you leave them attached to your hitch when your not towing? Or, do you detach them?
Thanks for watching! We recommend removing the bars when not in use. Most people will put them in their garage, or in their truck bed (if covered). That will help the bars and hitch avoid rusting as well.
I've owned this hitch for several years and it is fantastic. I have had some issues unhooking the sway bars when my truck is on an upward incline and can't get the jack high enough to take the tension off. I carry a pry bar just in case; but this is pretty brutal. Any suggestions?
A dub, When you are parked with the front of the tow vehicle on an incline, with the front raised slightly over what it would otherwise be on level ground, you are changing the angle between the tow vehicle and trailer. Extending that out to the ends of the spring arms, what you are effectively doing is increasing the distance they must be moved to be placed on the L-brackets, or you your case, to be removed from the L-brackets. One solution might be to stop and remove the spring arms at a level area near the location you're going to park. For example: if this is happening in a camp ground, stop on the road near your camp spot, drop the jack and remove the spring arms, then park the truck and trailer, and uncouple it as you normally would. Another solution would be to place some additional blocks under the tongue jack, or use a jack extension foot like the Fastway ONEstep jack foot. (www.fastwaytrailer.com/flip-jack-foot). This will give you a few more inches to raise, and should help make it easier to release the spring arms. One last solution you might try. Go back through the Equal-i-zer hitch owner's manual, and check your weight distribution set up. If you are getting a lot of weight distribution with the current set up (all the way back to the baseline height), you may be able to drop the L-brackets one hole, as long as that still gives you enough weight distribution to be within the recommended range (at least halfway back). If you know that the location you're going to is on an incline, you could quickly and easily make this change for these trips, then put the L-brackets back up a hole for towing to locations where the incline is not an issue. Thanks for the comment. Good luck!
I wish I had seen this 12 years ago when I got mine; I had to figure it out myself. I love it though, 28' TT + F150 and it tracks straight as an arrow no matter what. What's more, it's a manual jack so I get plenty of exercise.
We’re so glad to hear that you’re having a great experience with your Equal-i-zer hitch. If you ever need an upgrade on the jack, you should check out the Fastway Flip Jack Packs [ www.fastwaytrailer.com/flip-jack-feet ]. They are a top of the line jack, and come with a Flip automatic jack foot included to give you an extra 6” of lift, and no need for wood blocks. They save you about 50 cranks up or down.
I want to see the spring bars installed and removed otherwise you haven't shown me a from scratch install. I'm considering your product as a replacement for a system with heavy bars and don't want to replace it with something as heavy. thanks
Hi Karen! You're correct, this installation video doesn't go into specific detail in regards to putting in and taking out the spring arms. If you need specific instructions on that, you can refer to our EQ instructions, as well as contact our customer service team at (800) 478-5578 and they can walk you through that process as well. Here is the link to the installation guide. www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-and-guides/manuals/6k-14k-owners-manual
maxamus2012, This is a great question, thanks for asking! To answer, let us explain that there are three different categories of hitches. We like to classify them good, better, and best. A good hitch is a typical chain-style trunnion or round bar hitch. They have been around for a long time, and are manufactured by many different companies. We classify them as “good” because they are a better option than just towing with a ball mount. If you use them correctly, they help distribute the tongue weight back to the front axle of the tow vehicle, which improves your steering and braking control. They do not provide any sway control. The “better” class holds all of the other hitches (except the Equal-i-zer hitch) that are weight distribution hitches with built-in sway control. There are many hitches in this class by many different manufacturers. They are better than the “good” class, because they do add a measure of sway control. In our testing, the ones at the low end are comparable to a typical chain-style hitch with add-on sway bars. The very best of these we test at about 1/3 as good as the Equal-i-zer. The Andersen hitch would be somewhere in the “better” class. The Equal-i-zer hitch is the only hitch in the “best” class. It has been around for more than 70 years, so millions and millions of road tested miles and experience. It is made in America (and always has been), using only steel produced in the United States. More than 99% of our customers would recommend the hitch to their friends, and it has been voted the best hitch by the readers of Trailer Life magazine all four years in a row. No other hitch has ever been given the gold in their Reader’s Choice survey - only the Original Equal-i-zer Sway Control hitch. This is the court of public opinion - your peers - saying it is the best, not us tooting our own horn. In our internal testing, the Equal-i-zer hitch outperforms all other hitches by up to 8x. It comes with a lifetime warranty, and delivers the safety and performance trailer owners want and need. That’s why it’s the best. Hope this answers your questions. If you would like more information, get in touch with our customer support team M-F, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Mountain time at 800-523-9103, or drop them an email at Support@EqualizerHitch.com. They are the best.
+David Dion, After you get the tow vehicle unhitched and out of the way, use the tongue jack to get the trailer level, then use the stabilizer jacks to stabilize the trailer. When you're ready to go, raise the stabilizer jacks first, then use the tongue jack to raise or lower the trailer as needed to couple it back to the tow vehicle.
Before the video was shot he probably had gone through the process so that the trailer was perfectly positioned over the hitch ball. Often, especially when unhitching, the back of the truck will begin to rise as I lift the trailer to free it from the ball. I've learned to feel the positioning of the coupler vis a vis the ball with my finger and then pull the truck forward or backward a tad so the trailer lifts freely off the ball. Never comfortable with my finger under that thing. I wonder if there's a trick to proper positioning that he might tell us.
+Craig Knowles, The most valuable trick I know for coupling and uncoupling your trailer is practice. The more you do it, the more familiar you become with where it has to be. Aside from that, here are my tips: Grease the hitch ball and coupler. When I'm coupling up, I try to stop the ball just a little short of the socket in the coupler - maybe 1/4" to 1/2". Just enough that the coupler is past the flat on the top of the hitch ball, and will catch the rounded surface. When you drop the coupler onto the ball, it puts a little tension between the two, and pulls the ball into the front of the coupler. This gives you space at the back of the ball so the latch can come up against the ball easily. If I have dropped the trailer onto the ball, but can't get the latch to lock into place, I put the tow vehicle in drive (with my foot on the brake, and the trailer tires chocked), and let the idle pull forward just a bit so there's some tension between the ball and coupler, pulling the ball to the front of the coupler, and allowing the latch to move into position. To uncouple, I get the trailer where I want it, then chock the tires, (both sides). I use the ONEstep by Fastway trailer products. They are rock solid. www.fastwaytrailer.com/onestep-chock If it's on level ground, the trailer usually comes off easily. If you backed into place, or if you're parked on a slope where the trailer is higher than the tow vehicle, the ball may be pushing backward against the coupler latch, making it difficult to release. In this case, I use the same trick as above, put the vehicle in drive (after the trailer is chocked), and let it come forward enough to take the pressure off the latch. If you pulled forward into place, or if you're parked on a slope where the tow vehicle is higher than the trailer, the ball may be pulled forward in the socket tightly, also making it difficult to release. This commonly results in what you described above - the back of the truck rising as you try to lift off the trailer. It will lift until gravity overcomes the tension between the ball and coupler, allowing them to release. In this case, with the trailer chocked, I put the tow vehicle in reverse, and let it shift backward just enough to release this tension, then uncouple the trailer. Hope these are helpful!
Equal-i-zer hitch would this have any benefits on a small car and cargo trailer, pulling a 4-wheeler or lawnmower. Total weight of trailer and cargo probably won't ever see 2000lbs, on average probably 1000-1200lbs.
+Hill Billy, Yes, it would. The same principles apply to smaller trailers as to large ones. However, in practice, it is more difficult to do. Most small tow vehicles' frames are not designed for the forces of weight distribution. Check your owner's manual, or ask the manufacturer of your specific vehicle if it is designed to tow with weight distribution. If so, you could use the 4K Equal-i-zer hitch with your setup. You would need to have a 2" receiver installed on the tow vehicle, and make sure the tongue of your trailer has enough room and a place to install the brackets that hold up the spring arms.
I've heard that you can hook up your bars while your trailer hitch is still in the air before you lower it onto your truck , does that work also ? Thanks
We’ve never tried it that way, but we think it is not likely to work with a hitch that uses rigid brackets like the Equal-i-zer hitch. This is because the angle of the weight distribution bars from the hitch head backward is sloping toward the ground. This angle helps get the leverage you need for the weight distribution to work properly. Usually the ends of the bars are a few inches below the brackets on the trailer before hitching up. This method may work to attach the arms on a hitch that uses chains to hold up the weight distribution bars, but once you lower the trailer onto the hitch ball you will have to adjust the chains to get good weight distribution, so it doesn’t seem like a very efficient method of hitching up.
I also wished we had seen this video before our first trip. We came home with our first TT after having had 4 pop ups. Because we were camping the next day , we just left it hitched. Everything was going great until we got to the campsite and could not figure out how to get the swing arms off. I finally dug out the manual and we did get unhitched but this video explained it so very well. I still watch this video even though we have the process pretty well down. Good presentation and easy to understand. Thank you
terri mcfetridge Yup. The morons at the dealership had it hooked up when we came out from signing the papers & the maintenance guy didn't describe it well enough. I had the same experience as you when I got home.
Just bought a Grand Design 2650RK...the EQ was the first thing we worked into the deal (a memory foam mattress, bedroom TV, and rear camera were the others). Thanks for this basic explanation video -- clear and concise. Perfect. Thanks for the posting! Jennifer and Alan, tablesandtravels.com
The Engles, Congrats on the new trailer! Sounds like a beauty. Thanks for using the Equal-i-zer hitch, we are confident that you will love its safety and performance. Save travels!
Equal-i-zer Hitch Great video, what you didn't show is how to remove the bars completely. Please do a video on that. It would be very helpful not only for me, but for others owners of this new system.
+Chuck Faubel, That would be a good video topic, we'll put it in the queue! To remove the bars on the Equal-i-zer hitch, go through the unhitching process and take the spring arms off the L-brackets. Then, remove the clips and pins that hold the arms in the sockets in the hitch head. The arms should easily slide out of the sockets.
Quick question, I have a 2016 5.7 Tundra double cab and I have an equalizer hitch installed . I pull a 26' travel trailer . I haven't had any issues so far but do I also need air bags ?
+Brian Gutierrez With your Equal-i-zer hitch set up and working well, you should not need to do anything with air bags. It will work very well to lift the sag and distribute the weight by itself. Using air bags does not increase the towing capacity of the tow vehicle. They do take the sag out, but do not distribute any weight. However, they are a great way to make it so you can quickly and easily adjust the stiffness of your suspension. Basically, it is like adding or removing leafs on the springs, but you don't have to take everything apart and put it back together to do it, just inflate or deflate. If you do decide to use air bags, make sure you inflate them to your desired towing pressure BEFORE you set up your weight distribution. Otherwise, they will actually counteract the benefits you're getting from the hitch.
+terri mcfetridge, subscribe to our social media channels and watch for giveaways and discount codes. You might get lucky! Facebook.com/EqualizerHitch TH-cam.com/EqualizerHitch twitter.com/EqualizerHitch google.com/+EqualizerHitch
+Caleb Cissna There is no need to remove the Equal-i-zer hitch to back up, with one rare exception. If you are backing from a flat piece of ground where there is an abrupt or sharp transition to a steep incline, you should take the spring arms off. For example, a flat street backing the trailer up a very steep driveway, where the intersection between the street and drive is very sharp. In this case, the angle of the trailer relative to the tow vehicle, and pushing instead of pulling, changes the way the load is applied to the adjustable shank, and can put too much stress on it. Otherwise, back it up anywhere you want to!
Just to add, under normal situations, RV’ers are used to removing sway bars and/or J-type distribution bars. With the Equil-i-zer Hitch, there is no need for that, with the exceptions they mentioned.
If you're unhooking at a campsite, can't you simply lift the tongue of the trailer a bit and unhook the shank from the receiver and drive the truck away?
+Howard Ochs, thanks for the question. Nope, you can't. This might work for a weight carrying hitch, like a ball mount, but not for a weight distribution hitch. When you have the weight distribution arms engaged, it puts a lot of upward force on the hitch shank and the tow vehicle receiver. This binds them together, and you cannot pull the shank out of the receiver. Raising the tow vehicle and trailer together lifts the weight off the spring arms so they can be disengaged, but increases the bind on the receiver. Once the arms are off and the vehicles lowered, the bind on the receiver is removed, and it is possible at this point to pull the tow vehicle ahead off the hitch shank
Pulling a Grand Design Imagine 2150RB with a Ford F150. The Equal-i-zer system really keeps things steady and smooth on the highway. Question - there is a lot of creaking and groaning (NOT from my wife lol!) when making turns, like at an intersection, or when backing into a campsite. Is this normal? Does it cause unnecessary wear and tear on the hitch parts?
Norton Newmann, We're glad you have been having a great experience with the Equal-i-zer hitch! Great question about the creaks and groans. The simple answer is yes, from time to time you will probably experience some noise. However, it should be taken as a sign that the hitch is working well, and your sway control is in force. This seems strange, because noise while driving is usually associated with something being wrong. In this case, it's nothing to worry about, and no, it won't damage the hitch parts. The safety and performance you get from your Equal-i-zer hitch comes from the sway control that is integrated into the hitch. This happens at the four friction points (we call it 4-Point Sway Control), two in the hitch head, and two on the rigid trailer brackets. When under load (while you're towing) there is a TON of pressure at these points, which creates friction between the steel surfaces. That is where your sway control comes from. The harder it's pinched, the more that joint resists movement. When you're in a slow, tight turn, the hitch components are forced to move to adjust to the changing angles between truck and trailer. But in order to move, they must overcome that friction. At the point where enough force is present to move the spring arms, the friction is overcome for a fraction of a second, and that release and movement generates a vibration that comes across as a creak or groan. With some imagination, it can be compared to the plucking of a guitar string, or drawing the bow across a violin string. The best thing to do to minimize or eliminate the creaks and groans, is to regularly take a minute and put some grease on the friction surfaces of the hitch head. We have a great blog post that shows you how to do it quickly and easily, which you can read here: www.equalizerhitch.com/blog/02-25-2016/how-to-lube-your-equal-i-zer-hitch (use ctrl + "+" or "-" to zoom in and out if needed). In almost all cases, this will take care of it. If your wife is still groaning about the creaks after you lube the hitch, you can try some of our Sway Bracket Jackets, which you can find here: www.equalizerhitch.com/store/hitch-accessories/sway-bracket-jacket-pair Good luck, and safe towing!
@@GeoffWhittaker no, there is downside to the Sway Bracket Jackets. They have been used successfully by thousands of customers for many years. Yes, they do slightly reduce the friction between the weight distribution bars (spring arms) and the L-brackets, but it is really unnoticeable because the majority of the sway control with the Equal-i-zer hitch comes from the hitch head. If you are looking to reduce noise, we suggest that you first lubricate the sockets in the hitch head properly [eqhit.ch/o] and try it out. This usually eliminates the noise. Then, if it does not, try the Sway Bracket Jackets.
@@ironflange, thanks for the comment. You’re right about the noise and friction, nothing to be worried about, just evidence that it’s working well. One thing you can do to reduce the noise a lot is keep the sockets in the head well greased. Here is an article about how to do that. [ eqhit.ch/o ] Thanks for towing with an Equal-i-zer hitch!
Charly, Sorry to hear that you're having some frustration with your hitch. Unfortunately, the Original Equal-i-zer hitch is not a round bar style hitch. Is it possible that you have a Fastway e2 round bar hitch, or perhaps some other hitch brand? If it is an e2 hitch, please get in touch with the Fastway customer support team, and they can quickly help you find a solution to the problem. You can reach them via phone at 877-523-9103, M-F from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Mountain time, and also via email at Support@FastwayTrailer.com. Good luck!
never mind. The e2 has 2 points of friction vs the 4 of the Equalizer. They(Fastway) also offer the option of trundle bars or round bars. It is the same basic design and no one really wants to say how Fastway and Equalizer are related, or if they are.
*****, You are correct, the Equal-i-zer hitch has four points of friction sway control, and the Fastway e2 hitches have two. Both brands are manufactured by Progress Mfg. Inc., in Provo, UT. The Fastway e2 hitches are an improvement on the traditional trunnion and round bar hitch, with the addition of rigid brackets and built-in sway control. Both styles (trunnion or round bar) give you two-point sway control. These are comprable or better than all of the other sway control hitches on the market. The Original Equal-i-zer Sway Control Hitch is not similar in design to a traditional trunnion or round bar hitch, other than using the spring arms to get weight distribution. Its 4-point sway control design gives it the best sway control you can get in a hitch, and puts it in a class by itself as the best sway control hitch available.
Raise the trailer jack, remove the L-Pins, swing the bars out off the L-bracket, and remove the socket pin and clip. Then you can just pull the bar right out of the hitch head.
+Kenny Cosway, thanks for the comment. The best way to deal with this is to use the tongue jack to raise both vehicles a little higher, so that all of the weight is taken off the ends of the spring arms. Congrats on the 10 year anniversary!
There are two common causes of this problem. Not enough grease in the coupler/coupler latch/hitch ball, and movement of the tow vehicle or trailer that puts forward or backward pressure between the hitch ball and coupler. The primary solution is to add a good layer of grease like the Equal-i-zer High Performance Lubricant [eqhit.ch/1m] to the hitch ball, and within the coupler socket, especially on the moving parts of the coupler latch. This will solve the no-grease problem, and also help if there is pressure on the ball. If pressure is the problem, make sure the trailer is chocked well on both sides and if possible, determine if the hitch ball is being pulled forward in the socket, or pushed backward. Put the tow vehicle in drive or reverse (depending on which direction you need to go) and let it move just enough to relieve the pressure. Rarely, but also an occasional problem, is a coupler that has been bent or damaged, or that was manufactured slightly out of tolerance and is a bit smaller than it should be. In this case, you may need to repair or replace the coupler. If this does not help you, please get directly in touch with our Customer Support team for help at 800-478-5578 or support@equalizerhitch.com. Thanks for watching, and thanks for towing with an Equal-i-zer hitch.
Great question! The noise comes from the friction surfaces in both the hitch head, and at the sway control brackets. The easiest way to imagine it is to envision the way a violin makes sound. When the bow is moved across the string, it grabs and releases it very quickly over and over again. The result is the string vibrating, with that vibration being transferred to the body of the violin, and producing a sound. With the hitch, as you make a turn, the friction surfaces grab and release in much the same way, and this produces the creaking and groaning you hear. It is amplified by the frame and interior space of the tow vehicle and trailer. It is sometimes unsettling because most of us associate loud noises in our vehicles as an indication that something is wrong. However, in this case, it is a good sign because it is an indication that you are getting good friction at those points in the hitch, and that is what provides the superior sway control of the Equal-i-zer hitch. The best way to reduce this noise is to follow the lubrication guidelines in the maintenance section of the Equal-i-zer hitch owner’s manual [www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-guides/manuals/6k-14k-model-owners-manual/regular-maintenance]. Keep the friction surfaces in the head well lubricated and free from road grime and dirt. In most cases, this eliminates the noise. Additionally, you can make a slight adjustment to the setup to make the spring bars more parallel to the trailer frame. This may involve adding a spacer washer and lowering the L-bracket one hole, or vice versa. Finally, you can use a pair of the Equal-i-zer Sway Bracket Jackets [www.equalizerhitch.com/store/hitch-accessories/sway-bracket-jacket-pair]. These sit on top of the L-bracket, between the L-bracket and spring bar. Thanks for the question, and thanks for towing with an Equal-i-zer hitch!
Thanks so much for this awesome video. I am a newbie and the dealer and his mechanic didn't do a great job explaining to me how to do this. Thanks very much for the great instructions! A thousand thumbs up!
+Ginny Miller,
You're welcome! Thanks for towing with an Equal-i-zer hitch!
Thank you for the great review. We had orientation to all of this at pick up, but seeing this again, in a well-explained and visually well-produced video really makes us feel better about using it.
Arnold Bleicher,
Thank you. Happy camping and safe towing!
Thank you.
We were not sure about lifting the jack to remove the sway bars. You showed us the way. Our first day!
Great! We love to hear success stories. Thanks for buying an Equal-i-zer hitch, and safe travels!
You did a wonderful job explaining the process in order. Perfect 10. Great Job!!!
Thanks Tammie!
I wish I knew this when I got the camper! I could not figure out how to use the pry bar tool and wound up using a rubber mallet to get the sway arms in place. I do not have a power jack and did not latch the ball did not lift the truck with the hand crank. After watching this video it very easy to hook up my new Forest River camper trailer now.
Great Video ... on the GREATEST Hitch!!!
If I were to add anything, it would be about the unlikely situation where you are either trying to couple/uncouple where the trailer and tow vehical are not approximately level, or if you can not raise the tongue jack high enough to loosen the spring bars. I would suggest: A.) When vehicales are not level ... uncouple on level ground, prior to un/coupling; or B.) If you can not loosen the spring bars ... you may not be getting enough hight from your tounge jack. In this case, it may be necessary to use blocking (preferably a sincle, large 4”x6”x?” block of wook, or two) in order to give the tongue jack more “travel” hight to loosen the spring bars enough.
Thanks!
LOVE MY Equil-i-lizer 1200 ... the Greatest Hitch Ever!!!
Thanks for the compliment We’re glad you love your Equal-i-zer hitch.
Great advice, thanks for the comment. Have you tried a Fastway Flip [www.fastwaytrailer.com/flip-jack-foot] automatic jack foot? It’s super fast and easy, saves you about 50 cranks every time you hitch up or unhitch, and gives you an extra 6” of length on the jack.
Great video. Equal-i-zer hitch is #1
Wished I still owned a travel trailer, it's the ONLY set up I would use.
I'm new to this hitch system. I recently purchased a 2018 forest river heritage glen and have this new E2 system. We took it out this past weekend. One issue I had was removing the bars. The release pins didn't release the bars. What am I doing wrong. I hope it's something simple. Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks in advance..
My old TT had an E4 and I loved it, but sold it with the trailer. Lance dealer talked me into the Anderson, which has a lot to like, but lacks the sway control I am accustomed to. I put a new E4 on and am once again a happy camper!...
We're glad to hear you are enjoying your Equal-i-zer hitch! Thanks for watching!
This is the same as when using the chain style. What I do like about this setup is there is no guessing on how many links of the chain you should use. I am upgrading to one of these for this trailer season. You guys are spoiled with the power jack :-) You get a good work out doing it manually
*****,
We agree, a power jack is a luxury!
Thank you! we couldn't figure out how to unhinge our camper and as soon as I saw this we figured it out.
Our pleasure!
Great video. I had laugh. I had just backed my brand new trailer into the driveway and realized I didn’t know how to uncouple. You saved me!
Glad to hear we could help! Thanks for watching!
I love your hitch!! Works perfectly!!
Thank you!
This is great! Wish I had seen before I picked up the trailer. Very helpful
Larry Mashaw,
Thanks. And thanks for using an Equal-i-zer hitch!
Just what I needed. Thank you.
Glad to hear it +Randy Ozburn! Thanks for watching.
thank you for the great video. i bought my new equalizer hitch and ball from camping world in nc heading to ky monday to buy a new travel trailer. i would have bought the tt in my home state of n.c but the dealer beat all the dealers in nc by more then 5k.
+Chad Bergman,
Sweet! Enjoy the new rig, and thanks for putting an Original Equal-i-zer hitch on it!
Thank you for the reply. I the new rig yesterday. The equalizer preformed perfect. The tow was very good. Love the hitch!! Great product
Hi Dave!..another great vid!
Please when you can man, could you do a video of how to remove the sway bars?
Awesome video. Quick question though man, when you unhitch, what do you do with spring arms? Do you leave them attached to your hitch when your not towing? Or, do you detach them?
Thanks for watching! We recommend removing the bars when not in use. Most people will put them in their garage, or in their truck bed (if covered). That will help the bars and hitch avoid rusting as well.
I've owned this hitch for several years and it is fantastic. I have had some issues unhooking the sway bars when my truck is on an upward incline and can't get the jack high enough to take the tension off. I carry a pry bar just in case; but this is pretty brutal. Any suggestions?
A dub,
When you are parked with the front of the tow vehicle on an incline, with the front raised slightly over what it would otherwise be on level ground, you are changing the angle between the tow vehicle and trailer. Extending that out to the ends of the spring arms, what you are effectively doing is increasing the distance they must be moved to be placed on the L-brackets, or you your case, to be removed from the L-brackets.
One solution might be to stop and remove the spring arms at a level area near the location you're going to park. For example: if this is happening in a camp ground, stop on the road near your camp spot, drop the jack and remove the spring arms, then park the truck and trailer, and uncouple it as you normally would.
Another solution would be to place some additional blocks under the tongue jack, or use a jack extension foot like the Fastway ONEstep jack foot. (www.fastwaytrailer.com/flip-jack-foot). This will give you a few more inches to raise, and should help make it easier to release the spring arms.
One last solution you might try. Go back through the Equal-i-zer hitch owner's manual, and check your weight distribution set up. If you are getting a lot of weight distribution with the current set up (all the way back to the baseline height), you may be able to drop the L-brackets one hole, as long as that still gives you enough weight distribution to be within the recommended range (at least halfway back). If you know that the location you're going to is on an incline, you could quickly and easily make this change for these trips, then put the L-brackets back up a hole for towing to locations where the incline is not an issue.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck!
I wish I had seen this 12 years ago when I got mine; I had to figure it out myself. I love it though, 28' TT + F150 and it tracks straight as an arrow no matter what. What's more, it's a manual jack so I get plenty of exercise.
We’re so glad to hear that you’re having a great experience with your Equal-i-zer hitch. If you ever need an upgrade on the jack, you should check out the Fastway Flip Jack Packs [ www.fastwaytrailer.com/flip-jack-feet ]. They are a top of the line jack, and come with a Flip automatic jack foot included to give you an extra 6” of lift, and no need for wood blocks. They save you about 50 cranks up or down.
I want to see the spring bars installed and removed otherwise you haven't shown me a from scratch install. I'm considering your product as a replacement for a system with heavy bars and don't want to replace it with something as heavy. thanks
Hi Karen! You're correct, this installation video doesn't go into specific detail in regards to putting in and taking out the spring arms. If you need specific instructions on that, you can refer to our EQ instructions, as well as contact our customer service team at (800) 478-5578 and they can walk you through that process as well.
Here is the link to the installation guide. www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-and-guides/manuals/6k-14k-owners-manual
thanks alot
I've seen debates about where to grease the hitch. What are the grease points?
Check out our video on where to grease your hitch!
th-cam.com/video/FVKQgTh3Eew/w-d-xo.html
How does this compare to the Anderson Andersen 'No-Sway' Weight Distribution Hitch? Why is this a better choice?
maxamus2012,
This is a great question, thanks for asking!
To answer, let us explain that there are three different categories of hitches. We like to classify them good, better, and best.
A good hitch is a typical chain-style trunnion or round bar hitch. They have been around for a long time, and are manufactured by many different companies. We classify them as “good” because they are a better option than just towing with a ball mount. If you use them correctly, they help distribute the tongue weight back to the front axle of the tow vehicle, which improves your steering and braking control. They do not provide any sway control.
The “better” class holds all of the other hitches (except the Equal-i-zer hitch) that are weight distribution hitches with built-in sway control. There are many hitches in this class by many different manufacturers. They are better than the “good” class, because they do add a measure of sway control. In our testing, the ones at the low end are comparable to a typical chain-style hitch with add-on sway bars. The very best of these we test at about 1/3 as good as the Equal-i-zer. The Andersen hitch would be somewhere in the “better” class.
The Equal-i-zer hitch is the only hitch in the “best” class. It has been around for more than 70 years, so millions and millions of road tested miles and experience. It is made in America (and always has been), using only steel produced in the United States. More than 99% of our customers would recommend the hitch to their friends, and it has been voted the best hitch by the readers of Trailer Life magazine all four years in a row. No other hitch has ever been given the gold in their Reader’s Choice survey - only the Original Equal-i-zer Sway Control hitch. This is the court of public opinion - your peers - saying it is the best, not us tooting our own horn. In our internal testing, the Equal-i-zer hitch outperforms all other hitches by up to 8x. It comes with a lifetime warranty, and delivers the safety and performance trailer owners want and need. That’s why it’s the best.
Hope this answers your questions. If you would like more information, get in touch with our customer support team M-F, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Mountain time at 800-523-9103, or drop them an email at Support@EqualizerHitch.com. They are the best.
Very helpful - Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Great Job! At what point do you raise or lower, as applicable the electric stabilizer jacks? thank you.
+David Dion,
After you get the tow vehicle unhitched and out of the way, use the tongue jack to get the trailer level, then use the stabilizer jacks to stabilize the trailer. When you're ready to go, raise the stabilizer jacks first, then use the tongue jack to raise or lower the trailer as needed to couple it back to the tow vehicle.
Thank you, one of the very best video/explanations I’ve seen. Great Job!
+David Dion,
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Before the video was shot he probably had gone through the process so that the trailer was perfectly positioned over the hitch ball. Often, especially when unhitching, the back of the truck will begin to rise as I lift the trailer to free it from the ball. I've learned to feel the positioning of the coupler vis a vis the ball with my finger and then pull the truck forward or backward a tad so the trailer lifts freely off the ball. Never comfortable with my finger under that thing. I wonder if there's a trick to proper positioning that he might tell us.
+Craig Knowles,
The most valuable trick I know for coupling and uncoupling your trailer is practice. The more you do it, the more familiar you become with where it has to be.
Aside from that, here are my tips:
Grease the hitch ball and coupler.
When I'm coupling up, I try to stop the ball just a little short of the socket in the coupler - maybe 1/4" to 1/2". Just enough that the coupler is past the flat on the top of the hitch ball, and will catch the rounded surface. When you drop the coupler onto the ball, it puts a little tension between the two, and pulls the ball into the front of the coupler. This gives you space at the back of the ball so the latch can come up against the ball easily. If I have dropped the trailer onto the ball, but can't get the latch to lock into place, I put the tow vehicle in drive (with my foot on the brake, and the trailer tires chocked), and let the idle pull forward just a bit so there's some tension between the ball and coupler, pulling the ball to the front of the coupler, and allowing the latch to move into position.
To uncouple, I get the trailer where I want it, then chock the tires, (both sides). I use the ONEstep by Fastway trailer products. They are rock solid. www.fastwaytrailer.com/onestep-chock
If it's on level ground, the trailer usually comes off easily.
If you backed into place, or if you're parked on a slope where the trailer is higher than the tow vehicle, the ball may be pushing backward against the coupler latch, making it difficult to release. In this case, I use the same trick as above, put the vehicle in drive (after the trailer is chocked), and let it come forward enough to take the pressure off the latch.
If you pulled forward into place, or if you're parked on a slope where the tow vehicle is higher than the trailer, the ball may be pulled forward in the socket tightly, also making it difficult to release. This commonly results in what you described above - the back of the truck rising as you try to lift off the trailer. It will lift until gravity overcomes the tension between the ball and coupler, allowing them to release. In this case, with the trailer chocked, I put the tow vehicle in reverse, and let it shift backward just enough to release this tension, then uncouple the trailer.
Hope these are helpful!
Equal-i-zer hitch would this have any benefits on a small car and cargo trailer, pulling a 4-wheeler or lawnmower. Total weight of trailer and cargo probably won't ever see 2000lbs, on average probably 1000-1200lbs.
+Hill Billy,
Yes, it would. The same principles apply to smaller trailers as to large ones. However, in practice, it is more difficult to do. Most small tow vehicles' frames are not designed for the forces of weight distribution.
Check your owner's manual, or ask the manufacturer of your specific vehicle if it is designed to tow with weight distribution. If so, you could use the 4K Equal-i-zer hitch with your setup. You would need to have a 2" receiver installed on the tow vehicle, and make sure the tongue of your trailer has enough room and a place to install the brackets that hold up the spring arms.
Thank you! This helped tons!
We're so glad!
Excellent video thank you !
Thanks, Brian!
I've heard that you can hook up your bars while your trailer hitch is still in the air before you lower it onto your truck , does that work also ? Thanks
We’ve never tried it that way, but we think it is not likely to work with a hitch that uses rigid brackets like the Equal-i-zer hitch. This is because the angle of the weight distribution bars from the hitch head backward is sloping toward the ground. This angle helps get the leverage you need for the weight distribution to work properly. Usually the ends of the bars are a few inches below the brackets on the trailer before hitching up. This method may work to attach the arms on a hitch that uses chains to hold up the weight distribution bars, but once you lower the trailer onto the hitch ball you will have to adjust the chains to get good weight distribution, so it doesn’t seem like a very efficient method of hitching up.
Nice video. Just wish I’d watched BEFORE attempting do this for the first time. 😬
+AAV8R,
Glad it helped out!
I also wished we had seen this video before our first trip. We came home with our first TT after having had 4 pop ups. Because we were camping the next day , we just left it hitched. Everything was going great until we got to the campsite and could not figure out how to get the swing arms off. I finally dug out the manual and we did get unhitched but this video explained it so very well. I still watch this video even though we have the process pretty well down. Good presentation and easy to understand. Thank you
Thanks for watching and commenting +terri mcfetridge!
terri mcfetridge Yup. The morons at the dealership had it hooked up when we came out from signing the papers & the maintenance guy didn't describe it well enough. I had the same experience as you when I got home.
Very good video
Thanks +Jon Reagan!
can i back up into a campsite with equalizer on
Edward Marsland
Absolutely! You should be able to back into any campsite you want without having to remove or worry about your Equal-i-zer hitch.
Just bought a Grand Design 2650RK...the EQ was the first thing we worked into the deal (a memory foam mattress, bedroom TV, and rear camera were the others). Thanks for this basic explanation video -- clear and concise. Perfect. Thanks for the posting! Jennifer and Alan, tablesandtravels.com
The Engles,
Congrats on the new trailer! Sounds like a beauty. Thanks for using the Equal-i-zer hitch, we are confident that you will love its safety and performance.
Save travels!
Equal-i-zer Hitch Great video, what you didn't show is how to remove the bars completely. Please do a video on that. It would be very helpful not only for me, but for others owners of this new system.
+Chuck Faubel,
That would be a good video topic, we'll put it in the queue!
To remove the bars on the Equal-i-zer hitch, go through the unhitching process and take the spring arms off the L-brackets. Then, remove the clips and pins that hold the arms in the sockets in the hitch head. The arms should easily slide out of the sockets.
Quick question, I have a 2016 5.7 Tundra double cab and I have an equalizer hitch installed . I pull a 26' travel trailer . I haven't had any issues so far but do I also need air bags ?
+Brian Gutierrez
With your Equal-i-zer hitch set up and working well, you should not need to do anything with air bags. It will work very well to lift the sag and distribute the weight by itself.
Using air bags does not increase the towing capacity of the tow vehicle. They do take the sag out, but do not distribute any weight.
However, they are a great way to make it so you can quickly and easily adjust the stiffness of your suspension. Basically, it is like adding or removing leafs on the springs, but you don't have to take everything apart and put it back together to do it, just inflate or deflate.
If you do decide to use air bags, make sure you inflate them to your desired towing pressure BEFORE you set up your weight distribution. Otherwise, they will actually counteract the benefits you're getting from the hitch.
Equal-i-zer Hitch thank you for that information .
You're welcome, Brian Gutierrez! Let us know if you have any other questions.
What is that orange thing below the tongue jack where the wheel usually sits? It looks like it tucks away then drops down when adjusting the jack.
Where in the video are you talking about?
What was that orange "foot" that swung down when you lowered the jack ?
+VBM Adventures,
That is the Fastway Flip automatic jack foot. It's awesome. Seriously awesome.
www.fastwaytrailer.com/flip-jack-foot
I Saw the foot a camping world i think i will buy that looks like it works very well!!
That jack is on my wish list!
+terri mcfetridge, subscribe to our social media channels and watch for giveaways and discount codes. You might get lucky!
Facebook.com/EqualizerHitch
TH-cam.com/EqualizerHitch
twitter.com/EqualizerHitch
google.com/+EqualizerHitch
Where can I get one of those rectractable legs thats on the tongue jack?
FastwayTrailer.com! It is called the FLIP Jack Foot.
I was told not to go in reverse when the equalizer bars are engaged.
What’s your take on this?
Backing up with the Equal-i-zer hitch is easy! No restrictions. Hope that helps!
Love my hitch. I tow a 26 foot travel trailer and I don't even know it's back there...
+Mr. Chisels,
Thanks for letting us know!
Should this be removed when backing up or not?
+Caleb Cissna
There is no need to remove the Equal-i-zer hitch to back up, with one rare exception.
If you are backing from a flat piece of ground where there is an abrupt or sharp transition to a steep incline, you should take the spring arms off. For example, a flat street backing the trailer up a very steep driveway, where the intersection between the street and drive is very sharp.
In this case, the angle of the trailer relative to the tow vehicle, and pushing instead of pulling, changes the way the load is applied to the adjustable shank, and can put too much stress on it.
Otherwise, back it up anywhere you want to!
Just to add, under normal situations, RV’ers are used to removing sway bars and/or J-type distribution bars. With the Equil-i-zer Hitch, there is no need for that, with the exceptions they mentioned.
If you're unhooking at a campsite, can't you simply lift the tongue of the trailer a bit and unhook the shank from the receiver and drive the truck away?
+Howard Ochs, thanks for the question. Nope, you can't. This might work for a weight carrying hitch, like a ball mount, but not for a weight distribution hitch. When you have the weight distribution arms engaged, it puts a lot of upward force on the hitch shank and the tow vehicle receiver. This binds them together, and you cannot pull the shank out of the receiver.
Raising the tow vehicle and trailer together lifts the weight off the spring arms so they can be disengaged, but increases the bind on the receiver. Once the arms are off and the vehicles lowered, the bind on the receiver is removed, and it is possible at this point to pull the tow vehicle ahead off the hitch shank
Saved me from having to call my friend who taught me how to put it on and off....guess I missed a point....thanks!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Pulling a Grand Design Imagine 2150RB with a Ford F150. The Equal-i-zer system really keeps things steady and smooth on the highway. Question - there is a lot of creaking and groaning (NOT from my wife lol!) when making turns, like at an intersection, or when backing into a campsite. Is this normal? Does it cause unnecessary wear and tear on the hitch parts?
Norton Newmann,
We're glad you have been having a great experience with the Equal-i-zer hitch!
Great question about the creaks and groans. The simple answer is yes, from time to time you will probably experience some noise. However, it should be taken as a sign that the hitch is working well, and your sway control is in force. This seems strange, because noise while driving is usually associated with something being wrong. In this case, it's nothing to worry about, and no, it won't damage the hitch parts.
The safety and performance you get from your Equal-i-zer hitch comes from the sway control that is integrated into the hitch. This happens at the four friction points (we call it 4-Point Sway Control), two in the hitch head, and two on the rigid trailer brackets. When under load (while you're towing) there is a TON of pressure at these points, which creates friction between the steel surfaces. That is where your sway control comes from. The harder it's pinched, the more that joint resists movement.
When you're in a slow, tight turn, the hitch components are forced to move to adjust to the changing angles between truck and trailer. But in order to move, they must overcome that friction. At the point where enough force is present to move the spring arms, the friction is overcome for a fraction of a second, and that release and movement generates a vibration that comes across as a creak or groan. With some imagination, it can be compared to the plucking of a guitar string, or drawing the bow across a violin string.
The best thing to do to minimize or eliminate the creaks and groans, is to regularly take a minute and put some grease on the friction surfaces of the hitch head. We have a great blog post that shows you how to do it quickly and easily, which you can read here: www.equalizerhitch.com/blog/02-25-2016/how-to-lube-your-equal-i-zer-hitch (use ctrl + "+" or "-" to zoom in and out if needed). In almost all cases, this will take care of it.
If your wife is still groaning about the creaks after you lube the hitch, you can try some of our Sway Bracket Jackets, which you can find here: www.equalizerhitch.com/store/hitch-accessories/sway-bracket-jacket-pair
Good luck, and safe towing!
@@EqualizerHitch Is there any downside to the sway-bracket-jackets? Does it reduce the effective sway reduction?
@@GeoffWhittaker no, there is downside to the Sway Bracket Jackets. They have been used successfully by thousands of customers for many years. Yes, they do slightly reduce the friction between the weight distribution bars (spring arms) and the L-brackets, but it is really unnoticeable because the majority of the sway control with the Equal-i-zer hitch comes from the hitch head. If you are looking to reduce noise, we suggest that you first lubricate the sockets in the hitch head properly [eqhit.ch/o] and try it out. This usually eliminates the noise. Then, if it does not, try the Sway Bracket Jackets.
Mine makes a heck of a racket too, but I don't mind. It means there's lots of friction in the system, and that's what makes it work.
@@ironflange, thanks for the comment. You’re right about the noise and friction, nothing to be worried about, just evidence that it’s working well. One thing you can do to reduce the noise a lot is keep the sockets in the head well greased. Here is an article about how to do that. [ eqhit.ch/o ] Thanks for towing with an Equal-i-zer hitch!
thanks that helped alot
larry robley,
You're welcome!
It would be nice to SHOW how to get the round bar OUT of the hitch!!!!
Charly,
Sorry to hear that you're having some frustration with your hitch.
Unfortunately, the Original Equal-i-zer hitch is not a round bar style hitch.
Is it possible that you have a Fastway e2 round bar hitch, or perhaps some other hitch brand?
If it is an e2 hitch, please get in touch with the Fastway customer support team, and they can quickly help you find a solution to the problem. You can reach them via phone at 877-523-9103, M-F from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Mountain time, and also via email at Support@FastwayTrailer.com.
Good luck!
What round bar are you talking about? My hitch has square bars.
never mind. The e2 has 2 points of friction vs the 4 of the Equalizer. They(Fastway) also offer the option of trundle bars or round bars. It is the same basic design and no one really wants to say how Fastway and Equalizer are related, or if they are.
*****,
You are correct, the Equal-i-zer hitch has four points of friction sway control, and the Fastway e2 hitches have two. Both brands are manufactured by Progress Mfg. Inc., in Provo, UT.
The Fastway e2 hitches are an improvement on the traditional trunnion and round bar hitch, with the addition of rigid brackets and built-in sway control. Both styles (trunnion or round bar) give you two-point sway control. These are comprable or better than all of the other sway control hitches on the market.
The Original Equal-i-zer Sway Control Hitch is not similar in design to a traditional trunnion or round bar hitch, other than using the spring arms to get weight distribution. Its 4-point sway control design gives it the best sway control you can get in a hitch, and puts it in a class by itself as the best sway control hitch available.
How do you remove the sway bars?
Raise the trailer jack, remove the L-Pins, swing the bars out off the L-bracket, and remove the socket pin and clip. Then you can just pull the bar right out of the hitch head.
sometimes I get one bar off easy and the other side I have to fight with. Mine is 10 years old.
+Kenny Cosway, thanks for the comment.
The best way to deal with this is to use the tongue jack to raise both vehicles a little higher, so that all of the weight is taken off the ends of the spring arms. Congrats on the 10 year anniversary!
Having a problem followed directions perfectly ball will not release . What is up?
There are two common causes of this problem. Not enough grease in the coupler/coupler latch/hitch ball, and movement of the tow vehicle or trailer that puts forward or backward pressure between the hitch ball and coupler.
The primary solution is to add a good layer of grease like the Equal-i-zer High Performance Lubricant [eqhit.ch/1m] to the hitch ball, and within the coupler socket, especially on the moving parts of the coupler latch. This will solve the no-grease problem, and also help if there is pressure on the ball.
If pressure is the problem, make sure the trailer is chocked well on both sides and if possible, determine if the hitch ball is being pulled forward in the socket, or pushed backward. Put the tow vehicle in drive or reverse (depending on which direction you need to go) and let it move just enough to relieve the pressure.
Rarely, but also an occasional problem, is a coupler that has been bent or damaged, or that was manufactured slightly out of tolerance and is a bit smaller than it should be. In this case, you may need to repair or replace the coupler.
If this does not help you, please get directly in touch with our Customer Support team for help at 800-478-5578 or support@equalizerhitch.com.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for towing with an Equal-i-zer hitch.
Why does my hitch make SO MUCH noise when turning especially on the way home from a week away at the campsite
Great question! The noise comes from the friction surfaces in both the hitch head, and at the sway control brackets. The easiest way to imagine it is to envision the way a violin makes sound. When the bow is moved across the string, it grabs and releases it very quickly over and over again. The result is the string vibrating, with that vibration being transferred to the body of the violin, and producing a sound. With the hitch, as you make a turn, the friction surfaces grab and release in much the same way, and this produces the creaking and groaning you hear. It is amplified by the frame and interior space of the tow vehicle and trailer. It is sometimes unsettling because most of us associate loud noises in our vehicles as an indication that something is wrong. However, in this case, it is a good sign because it is an indication that you are getting good friction at those points in the hitch, and that is what provides the superior sway control of the Equal-i-zer hitch.
The best way to reduce this noise is to follow the lubrication guidelines in the maintenance section of the Equal-i-zer hitch owner’s manual [www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-guides/manuals/6k-14k-model-owners-manual/regular-maintenance]. Keep the friction surfaces in the head well lubricated and free from road grime and dirt. In most cases, this eliminates the noise. Additionally, you can make a slight adjustment to the setup to make the spring bars more parallel to the trailer frame. This may involve adding a spacer washer and lowering the L-bracket one hole, or vice versa. Finally, you can use a pair of the Equal-i-zer Sway Bracket Jackets [www.equalizerhitch.com/store/hitch-accessories/sway-bracket-jacket-pair]. These sit on top of the L-bracket, between the L-bracket and spring bar.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for towing with an Equal-i-zer hitch!
..thought you were gonna croak or something @ 1:45..lol
Yup...old knees. Thanks for the chuckle +Robert Allen.
Ready to go - ready to tow
Woohoo!
yOU DIDNT SHOW REMOVING SWAY BARS WHAT UP
+Bill Tobin, just lazy, I guess.