On the basis Mavis is very similar in appearance to a BR class 04 DM3 locomotive, which is very similar to a class 03 that I've have the good fortune to work on and drive. I can confirm, they are a mechanical nightmare.
First gear box is gears 1 2 3, gearbox 2 is low high and overdrive. For lighter loads you can set gearbox 2 to overdrive and just shift through 1 2 3 on gearbox 1, makes it super easy.
@@ianmillard1604I would like to see older Steam Trains from the 1920s to the 1950s. That are more for light freight operations instead of heavy ones. Maybe one from the UK.
That is pretty hands on and love more work to learn but after learning that is like driving a stick shift cat or truck. 4-5-7-8-10-13-15-18 speed trans. So lot of learning but you will get it moving and down.
I imagine the gears like a bycicle transimision system, where you have 2 "gearboxes": one on the wheel side and one near the pedals, it makes much more sense like that.
This is obviously based on the British Rail Class 03. It's not the same, there are a few differences. However, I wonder why they made the throttle lever work inversely. It's supposed to be pushed forward for more throttle. The other thing is that the British Rail Class 03 does not have a double gear box, but I like this one in the game actually better. Once you have figured it out, it is very rewarding.
Waaaaait... They have modeled a super-intricate lighting system for the DM3, but still haven't done anything about the fan button in the DE2? 🤔 Looking forward to Simulator a lot but this feels like a weird priority 😅
I think the cabin fan in DE2 is now working properly. What Squirrel meant by that is that the fan doesn't do anything for the actual driving. But what can it do realistically? It's a cabin comfort feature.
it idles at (if i'm reading the gage correctly) 250 RPM not, 2,500 it's a x10 RPM not x100 or x1000 like in a car. that redline is 1000 RPM on that gauge, it's a very slow engine it seems
That creep feature is more like a manual than an automatic car as the diesel mechanical loco works like a manual car, and we can just assume that both gearbox levers on their initial position can be treated as gear "1"
@@theraildynasty_ Depends on the engine and how fast you release the clutch. Otherwise the engine will stall. The fact you can put the reverser forward with brakes applied and the engine doesnt stall is more like an automatic transmission.
typical fluid coupllings are designed either with the knowledge that the operator knows how to operate it and doesnt normally need to constantly change its mode from coupled to uncoupled (and the automatic portion of the transmission usually handles the upshift and downshift as need be, as well as pushing it into neutral) its there to ALLOW slip, which prevents flat out mechanical coupling, which can have CATASTROPHIC results so im wondering whether or not the simulation is actually realistic, because it seems to act too quickly for a fluid coupling, as fluid needs to "come up to speed" in order for both ends to be at the same speed also, iirc, its the vacuum, and not compression with diesel engines that is used to cause the braking force, which is why its so loud, because its a popping sound as they are released when the valve finally opens
Yup, I'm probably never using a DM3, considering both DE2 MU and DH4 are better options with no ability to blow up the engine because of a wrong gear combination. The game already requires a lot of attention and looking around the cabin to use the levers to add the tedious task to use two more deadly levers.
Wow that’s a hooter! One thing I did notice is that I don’t think is correct is the hole wheelslip dynamic. When you thrown the power down the train is experiencing wheelspin, not wheelslip. Putting sand down will not stop wheelspin, but it will stop wheelslip which is caused by wet tracks. This has been an issue since day one and it’s a shame it’s not been sorted.
with 3 axles vs 2 she has more adhesion than the de2, plus shes pretty much a pure shunter for those who love hands on shunting.. much like a steamer. driving is an artform. once you learn her ways youll get alot more back. much more rewarding than a diesel electric
Is there still an 0-6-0 steam locomotive planned for the Simulator release? I have not seen any pictures or updates regarding it yet... Regarding the DM3, can you "play" with the gear selectors when the reverser is in neutral without blowing the gearbox?
did you really just compare the dm3 to an automatic car with the creeping? have you ever driven a manual car, put it into gear and then just let go of the clutch? it will do it as well (if you dont stall it of course) thats a better thing to compare it to as this train is a manual as well and not an automatic
@@squirrel Not just automatic. It does in manual cars too. My manual VW diesel creeps forward in 1st gear or 2nd without stalling. Same with other manual diesel cars i've driven. If its petrol or small engine then will it be more likely to stall when you release the clutch instead of move slowly.
I'm curious anyone know the tonnage that the DM3 and the DH4 can haul? I assume more than the DE2 but I wounder by how much might dictate if I skip this thing outside of sandbox or invest in it for the sake of easy but slow early game heavy hauls
According to wiki, the DM3 can haul 500 tons. According to my gameplay, it can comfortably haul ~500 tons (even from harbor) and shut ~700 tons. Don't expect any stellar speeds though, when up hill, you'll be mostly seeing single digits on the speedometer and when on even ground, expect around 50-55 km/h top, 60 if you push it off a cliff. Not sure about DH4, according to wiki it can haul 800t, I hauled 550 from harbor and it managed, albeit slowly. I will probably edit this part whenever I get more drive time on it.
I suspect I'll be filing this one into the "never going to use that" category... Not so much because I think the gears are hard but because I'm 100% confident I'd get distracted for just long enough to blow the thing up every time I got to a slight hill.
@@kederaji Maybe, maybe not, but most people don't use the front gear all that much. Perhaps it's different on a mountain bike / trails, but on normal bikes it stays most of its life on the middle one (or the big one, depending on the person and the bike).
In real life and in VR this train would be much easier to operate. My first job trucking I used to drive a 1964 Mac truck with a twin shifter that had a reversed overdrive kinda like this train does. Took a few weeks of practice but once I got the hang of it, I was good to go!
@@barrakuda17009 I can't wait to dust off my Index and jam gears for a few hours! Unfortunately I work 70 hours a week actually jamming gears so this'll be the first time I've played a game in forever. IRL American Truck Simulator is quite taxing, as it's now the NPC's that are the bad drivers 😅
also of note, this thing hill climbs a heck of a lot better than the DH3 and DE2 do to the manual gearing, where the others would get stuck, this thing WILL keep moving with a lot more than the others, just slowly
No, the DH4 compensates the lack of a low range (it's diesel hydraulic) with a very nice increase in overall power. It's strong enough to tow a 20 car train up most hills...
Problem is, yes the DM3 has better pulling power but thats it. Main issue with the DM3 is speed. On top of that it doesnt support MU, so as soon as you starting using multiple DH4/DE6's whatever advantage DM3 had, goes out of the window. DM3 also doesnt support remote, nor can you get around issue like you can in the DE6 by conneting a DE2/DH4 to it
the shadows are too aggressive in this game (and many games). anything that isn't in direct sunlight is completely black and that's not how reality works
@@hugoslr some games like ARMA and squad have dynamic brightness changing based on whether you're in a dark interior or a bright exterior, but this still is a cheap imitation to what the eye is capable of. Ray tracing lighting may fix the issue though, you'd get much more realistic ambient light.
Actually for me the lights switches makes more sense as they are there - in default setting it has shunter (switcher) configuration, where you have white lights on both ends (it is more convenient as when shunting, the driver then doesn't need to change white/red on each end depending on if going forward or backward as during the shunting the directions is changed quite often) - not sure if this is as a rule in US but in Europe, white on each end is used for shunting from that reason. In contrary, it would be more confusing if for one side the switch would have white light in lower position and red in upper position and for the other side switch it would be opposite (white in uper position and red in lower position of the switch).
Not to mention that the light switches on DE2 and DM4 behave the same; when I flick the switches of the front and rear lights in the same direction, I have the same lights actuve on both ends. Which is absolutely logical in my opionion.
@@manitoba-op4jx Some of the bigger ones I've seen operate around 200-750 RPM. But this is reserved for huuuuge diesel engines like the generator at my old college or the train in this video.
The largest engine in the world, the Wärtsilä-Sulzer RTA96-C, a 2,300 ton,14 cylinder, two-stroke turbocharged diesel engine, produces 80 megawatts of energy and operates between 15-102 RPM. That is a very slow rotational speed, taking from 1.7 to 4 seconds to complete one full rotation. Compare that to an automotive engine which takes a 1/5th to a 1/10th of a second to rotate at idle (300-600 rpm)
it is a bit strange. the order is 11, 12, 21, 22, and then 32, 23 and 33 would be easier that last part were 23, 32, 33, because right stick seemed to be less change. you go 1 small up or 1 big up minus 1 small down, that is more logic. it has a strange order at finish. will be a mechanical thing. maybe making two gears big on the same level is harder than alternating it. two big are huge space, and 2 small very few, while big + small and small+ big changes would be more equilibrated
Gears as shown by Squirrel (A/B): 1/1 1/2 2/1 2/2 3/1 3/2 2/3 3/3 Shifters have 3^2 = 9 combinations in total, and here we can see one missing, and that's 1/3, which should also be possible. These combinations are basically ratios and we can work out the actual multipliers if these are indeed properly ordered. Here's one useful mnemonic to let you learn the order in which to shift. Imagine if Gearbox A had the following positions x1, x2, x4 and Gearbox B had x2, x3, x7 This is what happens 1: "1/1" 1x2 = 2 2: "1/2" 1x3 = 3 3: "2/1" 2x2 = 4 4: "2/2" 2x3 = 6 5: "1/3" 1x7 = 7 6: "3/1" 4x2 = 8 7: "3/2" 4x3 = 12 8: "2/3" 2x7 = 14 9: "3/3" 4x7 = 28 I don't claim I know the exact ratios, this is just a mnemonic I developed through trial & error.
Perhaps a bit easier is to think of the gearboxes like there is only B with positions 2, 3, 7 Shifting A is then basically a "doubling action" So you start with A on x1 B is at 2, shift to 3 And then instead of shifting B to 7, you double A Shift B back (4), then forward (6) (This shift is discouraged, Squirrel skips it) Then you shift B to 7 (move A back to x1) 7 Then you quadruple (A is twice forward) Shift B back to 2 (8), then forward (12) Then you shift B to 7 (move A back to x2) 14 Finally you push A forward (to quadruple) 28 I think this is a pretty decent mnemonic, and also contains an explanation why 1/3 is discouraged. When shifting from 1/3 to 3/1 you need to introduce an intermediate shift of either 3/3 or 1/1 before you can do 3/1. 1/1 is unsafe being a much lower gear ratio, and 3/3 is the max ratio and will slow you down, so when at 2/2 (double 3) you basically skip 1/3 and head immediately for 3/1 (quadruple 2).
@@milanstevic8424 yep that is exactly why 1/3 is discouraged, I used to drive an old 1964 Mack truck with a similar gearbox. The guy who trained me told me to never use 1/3 because you're going to need both hands on each shifter and none on the wheel if you want to do it fast without the clutch, otherwise you're breaking the gearbox, or your knuckles!
What's interesting, as they show the marks on the control desk that should be for dual control, having driven a BR class 03, the lack of dual control will be very disappointing, as it comes in handing for shunting duties for one of these.
@@lordsanityfree all the levers (except the train brake one) are copied and mirrored on the other side of the control table, so you can drive the engine from the left window/side instead of the right you can see that on the left side of the table that holds the controls there are slots for the duplicate levers
Oh i love that locomotive, even tho its propably much harder to use than the others, im propably gonna use it a lot because i love the challenge! Awesome Video, thanks for explaining, im really looking forward for Derail Valley Simulator!
@@crestfallensunbro6001 I think its still a lot of fun to drive it, because its challanging. The speed is low but its still enough to get the bonus time money.
Why I dont play the DE6 much and honestly use the DE2, 282 and DH4 more than anything. Much more engaging to drive and having to micromanage keeps things intresting. DE6 is just boring for me, makes everything just too easy and loses alot of the fun factor. DE6 would be fine if the map was bigger and/or with steeper grades to challenge it. In the games current state DE6 feels like a cheat code vs doing jobs with a DE2 or 282 etc.
I drove one a BR 03 for 4 years shunting in a Refinery it was a nightmare to drive lol had similar controls a 5 speed semi auto gears and was prone to stall happy shunting.
Yes I noticed that too, which means that this train red lines where a normal car would sit at idle 😮 But then that is also why these things last for a 100 years.
@dlmunlimited they also have a lot of moving mass. We have a couple of gas compressors at another location, one with a Caterpillar 3608 engine and another with a Caterpillar 3612; they both run like 750 rpm at idle and 1000 rpm at working speed.
besides the horrible interface on other train sims, these games really need to include "operation manuals" for each model. i think like a ebook with some fake (or if it a real train, real) manuals of the start up and shut down procedures and the gear box and such. i think that would be a nice touch.
I kinda hate how rusted and broken it looks. Was it at the bottom of a lake for a decade? I'd figure if we are buying a train for a business we could get a somewhat used rather than apocalypse tested.
I figure the condition of it is meant to imply how old it is along with the non-self lapped breaking like the steamers and more awkward and primitive controls. Probably kept around as extra stock as backup for the other shunters
I recommend trying to stay in the higher gears as much as possible especially when going up hill. You want to have as much momentum to hopefully reach the top before the little guy loses power and you need to downshift. It definitely has way more muscle than the de2 however in terms of creeping its way along.
I went through the control guide in game and watched this video. I thought I was ready for this, but on my first outing, I completely destroyed the drivetrain. I had to tow it into the roundhouse and spend $40k on repairs. When I was driving, all the dials seemed to be in the good zones, guess I need more practice.
the gears should be arranged in a way that you can get to a valid gear most of the time with a single switch of one of the levers. your sequence is more intuitive in theory, but makes the driver much more likely to money shift
The tutorial broke when I first got into this loco and I just drove it how my heart dictated and noticed that with lower loads or light loco I can just start with both gears on 3 without choking it out. I like this loco more than I expected to. People compare it to Class 04 but I think it also has a lot of FAUR L30H in it. The paint scheme also looks like the ones used on these.
In real life and in VR it will be much easier, I used to drive a 1964 Mac truck with a twin shifter that had a reversed overdrive just like this train does. Took a few weeks of practice but once I got the hang of it I was good to go
I thought the same, so I drawn the gears on a sticky note and put it on my screen when playing. After 3 hauls or so, I was already shifting automatically. You're basically combining the knowledge from driving a car (how transmission works) and a bicycle with front and rear gears. You can basically customize your gear ratio by shifting in combinations of transmission A and B. Career-wise, considering its cost and the fact that it does not need any previous licenses and does not increase your copay by a penny, the game leaves you all the tools to learn to drive it without paying much at all. Also, it pulls. Oh it pulls like crazy. Definitely give it a shot, even if on a separate save slot, try it.
*thinks twice about buying this mechanical one* "It's like driving a manual truck" yes except THOSE HAVE 1 GEARBOX The steam locomotive (in theory) is a lot easier to drive, even considering the firing side of things, since you get feedback (visual via the gauges and audible feedback) about safety valve etc.
Thank you much, that was a very nice explanation of the gearbox. Seems to me it's more like a tractor than a locomotive, with the left lever setting the range and the right lever the gears within the range. I do NOT understand why 2-3 is higher than 3-1, though. It's like the gearbox is the product of a deranged mind.
That gear sequence will certainly take some getting used to! Haha. Would be better if they modelled the damage as locking-up the driving wheels if shifting down too far, as there shouldn't be that much friction at speed to halt the locomotive so quickly? Still, looks very fun indeed
8:00 why is any of this confusing? you have exactly the same configuration on the flick dials in other locos, here's it's just exploded into three separate switches. type switch: with flick dials you go to the left or to the right, here you just select one or the other. switches: with flick dials you go 0, 1, 2 steps in any one direction, here you just make a combination. essentially there are 2^3 = 8 states in total and this is probably true for both input mechanisms. flick dials -> -3, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 (where positives indicate a white light; so 3 red states, 4 white states and off). switches -> 0/0/0, 0/0/1, 0/1/0, 0/1/1, 1/0/0, 1/0/1, 1/1/0, 1/1/1 (exactly 8 combinations matching the above). finally, in other locos you have two flick dials, front and rear, here you have two columns, front and rear.
Hey Squirrel, that's a great guide, the DM3's gears in particular really irritated me and I rode more by ear. One question that brought me here.... is it more worth spending the money on a DM3 or rather the double traction for the DE2. I know at the end of the day you have the licences for all the locos anyway, but just when you are working your way up you are faced with the decision of what is more profitable per run.
@@jamesgraham4586It is also why I asked for a video on the steam engines in the first place. Not only is there another one, but the controls to them are also updated to be more realistic as well.
Squirrel only can do what the devs want him to, since hes beta tester with permission. the 0-6-0 im sure will be great, as will the new 2-8-2 revamp. all in good time.. i assure you they havent taken steam out :)
I wonder what the optimal RPM is. Engines are usually more efficient at low RPMs and high load. The problem is that in the circumstances of low RPM/high Load you get lots of heat and stress.
I run my between 600 and 800 and I only repair the engine from time to time. Definitely avoid staying in low (sub 200) and high (over 1000) RPM for prolonged periods of time, as well as shifting gears with throttle/engine brake engaged. These 2 things are brutal to the engine. If you avoid these, you'll be golden.
I love shunters, the 03, 04.. This is heaven for me, an 03ish thing with a split gearbox. i can see it delighting ETS2 players to cross that road/rail divide
I seriously don't get it. No matter how hard I try to understand, this gear sequence just doesn't make sense to me. Why does it go 1,1 / 1,2 / 2,1 / 2,2 / 3,1 / 3,2 / 2,3 / 3,3? Wouldn't it make more sense to go 1,1 / 1,2 / 1,3 / 2,1 / 2,2 / 2,3 / 3,1 / 3,2 / 3,3? Can we get a separate whole video explaining how this particular gear sequence makes any logical sense at all? lol
Honestly this is my favorite little loco. I was gutted when i found out it is only a 100t increase to the de2. Considering it’s on par size wise to the diesel hydraulic at 800t. But then again it has 4 sets of motors over the 3. Still a great shunter and a recommended upgrade to the de2 asap for shunting or small halls
Mavis must have been a mechanical nightmare in 'Thomas and Friends'.
On the basis Mavis is very similar in appearance to a BR class 04 DM3 locomotive, which is very similar to a class 03 that I've have the good fortune to work on and drive. I can confirm, they are a mechanical nightmare.
Lol
@@Lemonaitor Was the gearbox on that ever blown?
@@Lemonaitor according to wiki Mavis is indeed a BR class 04, with added side plates and cowcatcher
Omg THATS why ot looks so familiar!
First gear box is gears 1 2 3, gearbox 2 is low high and overdrive. For lighter loads you can set gearbox 2 to overdrive and just shift through 1 2 3 on gearbox 1, makes it super easy.
Woo. BR class 03 finally gets in to Derail Valley.
Just needs a class 08
@@firefox3187that would be heaven!
@@ianmillard1604I would like to see older Steam Trains from the 1920s to the 1950s. That are more for light freight operations instead of heavy ones. Maybe one from the UK.
@@Vixen1525railroader if u want older steam trains.
That is pretty hands on and love more work to learn but after learning that is like driving a stick shift cat or truck. 4-5-7-8-10-13-15-18 speed trans. So lot of learning but you will get it moving and down.
I imagine the gears like a bycicle transimision system, where you have 2 "gearboxes": one on the wheel side and one near the pedals, it makes much more sense like that.
sooo if this is preparing you for the steam locos; could we say the DM3 is the gateway drug to steam?
Can't wait to drive that Loco 😮
Reminds me British Class 03 and other locos like it. That one has Mechanical gearbox too
arrrrrh man thats awesome i love driving cars in manual gears but trains with manual gears my mind is blown, hats off to you devs
I could see this being alot of fun with vr
I can't wait to try it out, I drive truck and love the aspect of shifting gears in a train.
I love how truck drivers say "I drive truck" instead of "trucks."
I'm a truck driver myself and I say it now too lol
This is obviously based on the British Rail Class 03. It's not the same, there are a few differences. However, I wonder why they made the throttle lever work inversely. It's supposed to be pushed forward for more throttle.
The other thing is that the British Rail Class 03 does not have a double gear box, but I like this one in the game actually better. Once you have figured it out, it is very rewarding.
Waaaaait... They have modeled a super-intricate lighting system for the DM3, but still haven't done anything about the fan button in the DE2? 🤔
Looking forward to Simulator a lot but this feels like a weird priority 😅
I think the cabin fan in DE2 is now working properly. What Squirrel meant by that is that the fan doesn't do anything for the actual driving. But what can it do realistically? It's a cabin comfort feature.
Just wanted to say thanks for your informative and light hearted vids, very helpful and entertaining. Cheers from Aus
I must only 2 Days wait for this Great Update of Derail Valley
Sweet. After two years we get a graphical update and a few confusing locos. Still gonna spend so many more hours in VR playing
Failing to appreciate work done under the hood is a common problem for newbie gamers. A whole lot of refactoring went into this update.
@@Squant I've been playing DV for several years.
Dear god. Two gear shifters in a DM engine. And I thought driving a stick was hard enough
it idles at (if i'm reading the gage correctly) 250 RPM not, 2,500 it's a x10 RPM not x100 or x1000 like in a car. that redline is 1000 RPM on that gauge, it's a very slow engine it seems
That creep feature is more like a manual than an automatic car as the diesel mechanical loco works like a manual car, and we can just assume that both gearbox levers on their initial position can be treated as gear "1"
manual cars don't creep....
@@murmaider2 what? 😂😂😂 Put the car in first, release the clutch and the car will creep without touching the accelerator
@@theraildynasty_ my car will stall
@@Dmahon247 well my car doesn't and no other manual car doesn't stall
@@theraildynasty_ Depends on the engine and how fast you release the clutch. Otherwise the engine will stall. The fact you can put the reverser forward with brakes applied and the engine doesnt stall is more like an automatic transmission.
Looks alot like a BR Class 03
Yes it is and i drove one for 4 years shunting in a Refinery nightmare to drive lol
so cool! never taught trains had ever have gears like that
Same
It exists, its just not common and mainly only used on smaller locomotives
lol it's literally driving a twin stick truck on rails
edit: as a big truck fan; I LOVE the twin stick and engine brake features
0:18 looks like a British rail class 03
That's because it's based off of it and the BR Class 04
Derail Valley is becoming a good game but I wonder how map rebuilding will be.
We definitely need two cursors for this loco, dayum
Oh my God, How many new locomotives are there in the derail valley simulation game? Its Absolutely beautiful and amazing. 😂😂😂
typical fluid coupllings are designed either with the knowledge that the operator knows how to operate it and doesnt normally need to constantly change its mode from coupled to uncoupled (and the automatic portion of the transmission usually handles the upshift and downshift as need be, as well as pushing it into neutral)
its there to ALLOW slip, which prevents flat out mechanical coupling, which can have CATASTROPHIC results
so im wondering whether or not the simulation is actually realistic, because it seems to act too quickly for a fluid coupling, as fluid needs to "come up to speed" in order for both ends to be at the same speed
also, iirc, its the vacuum, and not compression with diesel engines that is used to cause the braking force, which is why its so loud, because its a popping sound as they are released when the valve finally opens
I'm still surprised the DM2/3 aren't turbo charged.
Yup, I'm probably never using a DM3, considering both DE2 MU and DH4 are better options with no ability to blow up the engine because of a wrong gear combination.
The game already requires a lot of attention and looking around the cabin to use the levers to add the tedious task to use two more deadly levers.
Wow that’s a hooter!
One thing I did notice is that I don’t think is correct is the hole wheelslip dynamic. When you thrown the power down the train is experiencing wheelspin, not wheelslip. Putting sand down will not stop wheelspin, but it will stop wheelslip which is caused by wet tracks.
This has been an issue since day one and it’s a shame it’s not been sorted.
I was once excited to use this engine but now
Shifting would be so much easier in VR
Based on this video it seems like this can't haul as much as a DE2, that really sucks. Is it a requirement to shut the throttle to change gear?
it does haul more than the DE2.
Yes. "It has no clutch, so you must disengage the throttle when shifting in order to avoid damaging the locomotive."
Based on this video it hauls more than DE2. He attached around 450t of steel rails to it.
"Is it a requirement to shut the throttle to change gear?" Yes it works just like a manual car shifter. Shutting throttle acts like a clutch.
with 3 axles vs 2 she has more adhesion than the de2, plus shes pretty much a pure shunter for those who love hands on shunting.. much like a steamer. driving is an artform. once you learn her ways youll get alot more back. much more rewarding than a diesel electric
How did he get his mouse like that?
Is there still an 0-6-0 steam locomotive planned for the Simulator release? I have not seen any pictures or updates regarding it yet...
Regarding the DM3, can you "play" with the gear selectors when the reverser is in neutral without blowing the gearbox?
The developers have said that the 0-6-0T won't be ready by the time of Simulator release, but they plan to release it in the weeks afterwards.
Can't wait ,2 days ...
Why does it feel like you are in a boat on the sea and not in a locomotive?
Where are the streams ?
I think squirrel is the only one showcasing the simulator update as far as I know according to discord.
Wheres the fuel guage ? Or do u dip the tanks manually?
you'll find out when your low when the lights start screaming.
and i thought that the dm3 was a swedish iron ore locomotive
did you really just compare the dm3 to an automatic car with the creeping?
have you ever driven a manual car, put it into gear and then just let go of the clutch? it will do it as well (if you dont stall it of course) thats a better thing to compare it to as this train is a manual as well and not an automatic
Doesn't any car have creep in first gear since clutch is engaged?
Only automatics since with a manual you have to depress to clutch before you put it in gear..
@@squirrel Not just automatic. It does in manual cars too. My manual VW diesel creeps forward in 1st gear or 2nd without stalling. Same with other manual diesel cars i've driven. If its petrol or small engine then will it be more likely to stall when you release the clutch instead of move slowly.
Nice
"Even if im idling and i choose the wrong gear" Instant Money Shift
#Squirrel 2023
I'm curious anyone know the tonnage that the DM3 and the DH4 can haul? I assume more than the DE2 but I wounder by how much might dictate if I skip this thing outside of sandbox or invest in it for the sake of easy but slow early game heavy hauls
I'm sure the manuals/licenses will tell us when the update comes out.
According to wiki, the DM3 can haul 500 tons. According to my gameplay, it can comfortably haul ~500 tons (even from harbor) and shut ~700 tons. Don't expect any stellar speeds though, when up hill, you'll be mostly seeing single digits on the speedometer and when on even ground, expect around 50-55 km/h top, 60 if you push it off a cliff.
Not sure about DH4, according to wiki it can haul 800t, I hauled 550 from harbor and it managed, albeit slowly. I will probably edit this part whenever I get more drive time on it.
I am never going to drive this thing 😆
I think it would be more confusing if the rear light switch was reversed
Whoever designed this locomotive must have hated the drivers, or I don't know why else they would've made such counterintuitive controls.
This loco is def only for a certain type of driver. And that type of driver is me.
I suspect I'll be filing this one into the "never going to use that" category... Not so much because I think the gears are hard but because I'm 100% confident I'd get distracted for just long enough to blow the thing up every time I got to a slight hill.
Me too when I buy M&Ms I eat every one except the blue ones. They are in the "never going to eat that" category.
Just stay in top gear and below 55km/h
It's actually surprisingly easy to memorize the shifting pattern, and using keyboard controls makes it super quick too. Just remember to skip 1-3
Geez, that gearbox is a crapfest... I see a lot of broken gearboxes in the future.
it's pretty similar to the way bicycle gearings work
@@kederaji Maybe, maybe not, but most people don't use the front gear all that much. Perhaps it's different on a mountain bike / trails, but on normal bikes it stays most of its life on the middle one (or the big one, depending on the person and the bike).
@@kederajiSimilar to a Spicer gearbox on old trucks
@@kederaji Or just Manual on cars really
@@JustVolvo No, not really.
In real life and in VR this train would be much easier to operate. My first job trucking I used to drive a 1964 Mac truck with a twin shifter that had a reversed overdrive kinda like this train does. Took a few weeks of practice but once I got the hang of it, I was good to go!
I was thinking this as well. Would be much easier in VR being able to manage the throttle and gearbox at the same time
@@barrakuda17009 I can't wait to dust off my Index and jam gears for a few hours! Unfortunately I work 70 hours a week actually jamming gears so this'll be the first time I've played a game in forever. IRL American Truck Simulator is quite taxing, as it's now the NPC's that are the bad drivers 😅
OMG, I drove the same truck in school. Never got to drive one on the job.
@@GaryParkin LoL! Lucky, I wished I didn't have to drive that hunk of unkillable junk for 2 years 😅
Driving this loco got me thinking about that. Was always kinda scared of twin sticks but once I understood the pattern i just love the depth in it
also of note, this thing hill climbs a heck of a lot better than the DH3 and DE2 do to the manual gearing, where the others would get stuck, this thing WILL keep moving with a lot more than the others, just slowly
it also makes a good heavy shunter as i have found out for heavy loads, almost worth dragging around in a DE6
Emphasis on slowly, on flat track with no load it struggles to go past 60 and climbing with a load it's rarely in the double digits
You're really better off hooking up 2 DH4s. It'll cost more fuel, but you'll get 2 trips done in the same amount of time.
No, the DH4 compensates the lack of a low range (it's diesel hydraulic) with a very nice increase in overall power. It's strong enough to tow a 20 car train up most hills...
Problem is, yes the DM3 has better pulling power but thats it. Main issue with the DM3 is speed. On top of that it doesnt support MU, so as soon as you starting using multiple DH4/DE6's whatever advantage DM3 had, goes out of the window.
DM3 also doesnt support remote, nor can you get around issue like you can in the DE6 by conneting a DE2/DH4 to it
They really need to do something about the brightness in the cab during day time.
the shadows are too aggressive in this game (and many games). anything that isn't in direct sunlight is completely black and that's not how reality works
Yeah i dont think ill ever use this locomotive if the cab is gonna be this dark
Yeah the lighting needs some adjustments by the looks of it
@@murmaider2 that's because game engines can't replicate the sensibility of the human eye to brightness and different contrasts.
@@hugoslr some games like ARMA and squad have dynamic brightness changing based on whether you're in a dark interior or a bright exterior, but this still is a cheap imitation to what the eye is capable of. Ray tracing lighting may fix the issue though, you'd get much more realistic ambient light.
this "sneak preview" video series made me SO excited for the release on Friday, I wish it was today already.
thanks for the great content
there were also the shorts that the devs posted on their YT
@@happyburger23 yeah I've been binging the shorts recap :)
2 more days to go, guys. I cannot wait.
Actually for me the lights switches makes more sense as they are there - in default setting it has shunter (switcher) configuration, where you have white lights on both ends (it is more convenient as when shunting, the driver then doesn't need to change white/red on each end depending on if going forward or backward as during the shunting the directions is changed quite often) - not sure if this is as a rule in US but in Europe, white on each end is used for shunting from that reason.
In contrary, it would be more confusing if for one side the switch would have white light in lower position and red in upper position and for the other side switch it would be opposite (white in uper position and red in lower position of the switch).
Not to mention that the light switches on DE2 and DM4 behave the same; when I flick the switches of the front and rear lights in the same direction, I have the same lights actuve on both ends. Which is absolutely logical in my opionion.
Looks to me like 240rpm, not 2400rpm.
Big diesels turn slooooow.
@@VolksDragon Chugga chugga
@@manitoba-op4jx Some of the bigger ones I've seen operate around 200-750 RPM. But this is reserved for huuuuge diesel engines like the generator at my old college or the train in this video.
The largest engine in the world, the Wärtsilä-Sulzer RTA96-C, a 2,300 ton,14 cylinder, two-stroke turbocharged diesel engine, produces 80 megawatts of energy and operates between 15-102 RPM. That is a very slow rotational speed, taking from 1.7 to 4 seconds to complete one full rotation. Compare that to an automotive engine which takes a 1/5th to a 1/10th of a second to rotate at idle (300-600 rpm)
I think I just had an aneurysm trying to understand the gear sequence...
With todays politics, keep that medical insurance money rolling then.
it is a bit strange. the order is 11, 12, 21, 22, and then 32, 23 and 33
would be easier that last part were 23, 32, 33, because right stick seemed to be less change. you go 1 small up or 1 big up minus 1 small down, that is more logic. it has a strange order at finish. will be a mechanical thing. maybe making two gears big on the same level is harder than alternating it. two big are huge space, and 2 small very few, while big + small and small+ big changes would be more equilibrated
The tachometer is in x10 format, so instead of 20,40,60 being in thousands it’s actually in hundreds. So it’s 200,400,600,800,1000 redline
Gears as shown by Squirrel
(A/B):
1/1
1/2
2/1
2/2
3/1
3/2
2/3
3/3
Shifters have 3^2 = 9 combinations in total, and here we can see one missing, and that's 1/3, which should also be possible.
These combinations are basically ratios and we can work out the actual multipliers if these are indeed properly ordered.
Here's one useful mnemonic to let you learn the order in which to shift.
Imagine if Gearbox A had the following positions x1, x2, x4 and Gearbox B had x2, x3, x7
This is what happens
1: "1/1" 1x2 = 2
2: "1/2" 1x3 = 3
3: "2/1" 2x2 = 4
4: "2/2" 2x3 = 6
5: "1/3" 1x7 = 7
6: "3/1" 4x2 = 8
7: "3/2" 4x3 = 12
8: "2/3" 2x7 = 14
9: "3/3" 4x7 = 28
I don't claim I know the exact ratios, this is just a mnemonic I developed through trial & error.
i printed your comment in anticipation of the update
@@pedro1492 true train gamer move. Copying that haha
Perhaps a bit easier is to think of the gearboxes like there is only B with positions 2, 3, 7
Shifting A is then basically a "doubling action"
So you start with A on x1
B is at 2,
shift to 3
And then instead of shifting B to 7, you double A
Shift B back (4),
then forward (6)
(This shift is discouraged, Squirrel skips it)
Then you shift B to 7 (move A back to x1)
7
Then you quadruple (A is twice forward)
Shift B back to 2 (8),
then forward (12)
Then you shift B to 7 (move A back to x2)
14
Finally you push A forward (to quadruple)
28
I think this is a pretty decent mnemonic, and also contains an explanation why 1/3 is discouraged. When shifting from 1/3 to 3/1 you need to introduce an intermediate shift of either 3/3 or 1/1 before you can do 3/1. 1/1 is unsafe being a much lower gear ratio, and 3/3 is the max ratio and will slow you down, so when at 2/2 (double 3) you basically skip 1/3 and head immediately for 3/1 (quadruple 2).
@@milanstevic8424 yep that is exactly why 1/3 is discouraged, I used to drive an old 1964 Mack truck with a similar gearbox.
The guy who trained me told me to never use 1/3 because you're going to need both hands on each shifter and none on the wheel if you want to do it fast without the clutch, otherwise you're breaking the gearbox, or your knuckles!
What's interesting, as they show the marks on the control desk that should be for dual control, having driven a BR class 03, the lack of dual control will be very disappointing, as it comes in handing for shunting duties for one of these.
What do you mean by dual control?
@@lordsanityfree all the levers (except the train brake one) are copied and mirrored on the other side of the control table, so you can drive the engine from the left window/side instead of the right
you can see that on the left side of the table that holds the controls there are slots for the duplicate levers
@@diegokevin3824 I bet that could be an unlockable upgrade.
Despite the silly title, this is such a fascinating sim.
agreed!
Oh i love that locomotive, even tho its propably much harder to use than the others, im propably gonna use it a lot because i love the challenge!
Awesome Video, thanks for explaining, im really looking forward for Derail Valley Simulator!
It's strong for its license cost and no copay increase, but man it is *slow*
@@crestfallensunbro6001 I think its still a lot of fun to drive it, because its challanging. The speed is low but its still enough to get the bonus time money.
Why I dont play the DE6 much and honestly use the DE2, 282 and DH4 more than anything. Much more engaging to drive and having to micromanage keeps things intresting. DE6 is just boring for me, makes everything just too easy and loses alot of the fun factor.
DE6 would be fine if the map was bigger and/or with steeper grades to challenge it. In the games current state DE6 feels like a cheat code vs doing jobs with a DE2 or 282 etc.
@junkiexl86 I'd definitely perfer 282 and steam engines, I wish there were more but the So60 has such a limited range
I drove one a BR 03 for 4 years shunting in a Refinery it was a nightmare to drive lol had similar controls a 5 speed semi auto gears and was prone to stall happy shunting.
10:55 the tachometer is x10, so idle is about 250 RPM.
Yes I noticed that too, which means that this train red lines where a normal car would sit at idle 😮 But then that is also why these things last for a 100 years.
@dlmunlimited they also have a lot of moving mass. We have a couple of gas compressors at another location, one with a Caterpillar 3608 engine and another with a Caterpillar 3612; they both run like 750 rpm at idle and 1000 rpm at working speed.
DM3 looks like a handful.
I'll probably try it for a little before moving on to DH4. :D
besides the horrible interface on other train sims, these games really need to include "operation manuals" for each model. i think like a ebook with some fake (or if it a real train, real) manuals of the start up and shut down procedures and the gear box and such. i think that would be a nice touch.
I kinda hate how rusted and broken it looks. Was it at the bottom of a lake for a decade? I'd figure if we are buying a train for a business we could get a somewhat used rather than apocalypse tested.
I figure the condition of it is meant to imply how old it is along with the non-self lapped breaking like the steamers and more awkward and primitive controls. Probably kept around as extra stock as backup for the other shunters
14:54 "just a lil bit of wheel slip"
I recommend trying to stay in the higher gears as much as possible especially when going up hill. You want to have as much momentum to hopefully reach the top before the little guy loses power and you need to downshift. It definitely has way more muscle than the de2 however in terms of creeping its way along.
Holy crap, I've been skipping a bunch of gears... no wonder I have so much damage and can't get up to those speeds! Thank you!
I went through the control guide in game and watched this video. I thought I was ready for this, but on my first outing, I completely destroyed the drivetrain. I had to tow it into the roundhouse and spend $40k on repairs. When I was driving, all the dials seemed to be in the good zones, guess I need more practice.
They have really over done the cabin shake... I hope that is configurable or I am going to get very ill playing this
the light switch makes sense to me. Switch down, white (or lower) lights. Switch up, red (or upper) lights
So we've had engines with 2, 3, 4, and 6 axles, now we just need a 5 axle to fill in the gap.
Hmm... does Segway make a 1 axle locomotive :)
It's the new crew vehicle option, of course :P
Something to note when shifting gears, ALWAYS shift up before shifting down to avoid engine overspeeding
i though the gears would’ve been 1-1 , 1-2, 1-3. 2-1, 2-2, 2-3. 3-1, 3-2, 3-3. Just makes more sense in my head
the gears should be arranged in a way that you can get to a valid gear most of the time with a single switch of one of the levers.
your sequence is more intuitive in theory, but makes the driver much more likely to money shift
If you think this doesn't make sense, have a look at older John Deere tractors like the 3010.
So it’s like using a 3 speed gearbox with big Low Medium and High ranges?
The tutorial broke when I first got into this loco and I just drove it how my heart dictated and noticed that with lower loads or light loco I can just start with both gears on 3 without choking it out.
I like this loco more than I expected to. People compare it to Class 04 but I think it also has a lot of FAUR L30H in it. The paint scheme also looks like the ones used on these.
please! Can you make a video? guider s060 steam from Derail valley???
I bought her license and I'm having trouble😦
ALCO RSD EMD G22 ARGENENO 668b ALL TBA NCA LSM FEPSA COMSA B&L 2024 MSTS ❤❤❤❤🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷 Cómo era forro sur de Argentina
Definitely skipping this loco and will have DE2 until I can afford DH4 :D
Says idle is approximately 2500 RPM when the Tachometer is clearly reading 240 RPM. The Tachometer clearly states x10, not x100 as he is assuming.
Thanks for demonstrating. But this unfortunately, seems way too complicated for me to operate successfully.
In real life and in VR it will be much easier, I used to drive a 1964 Mac truck with a twin shifter that had a reversed overdrive just like this train does. Took a few weeks of practice but once I got the hang of it I was good to go
I thought the same, so I drawn the gears on a sticky note and put it on my screen when playing. After 3 hauls or so, I was already shifting automatically. You're basically combining the knowledge from driving a car (how transmission works) and a bicycle with front and rear gears. You can basically customize your gear ratio by shifting in combinations of transmission A and B. Career-wise, considering its cost and the fact that it does not need any previous licenses and does not increase your copay by a penny, the game leaves you all the tools to learn to drive it without paying much at all. Also, it pulls. Oh it pulls like crazy.
Definitely give it a shot, even if on a separate save slot, try it.
This loco looks quite similar to a New Zealand Railways "Ds" or "Dsa" class shunter, but the gears are a 5 gear if I remember
They are a five speed.
This looks like a BR 03 class which had the same gearbox.
*thinks twice about buying this mechanical one*
"It's like driving a manual truck" yes except THOSE HAVE 1 GEARBOX
The steam locomotive (in theory) is a lot easier to drive, even considering the firing side of things, since you get feedback (visual via the gauges and audible feedback) about safety valve etc.
Older ones had main-auxiliary combinations a long time ago.
Thank you much, that was a very nice explanation of the gearbox. Seems to me it's more like a tractor than a locomotive, with the left lever setting the range and the right lever the gears within the range. I do NOT understand why 2-3 is higher than 3-1, though. It's like the gearbox is the product of a deranged mind.
That gear sequence will certainly take some getting used to! Haha. Would be better if they modelled the damage as locking-up the driving wheels if shifting down too far, as there shouldn't be that much friction at speed to halt the locomotive so quickly? Still, looks very fun indeed
Given the complexity of this loco, am I right in assuming you can't double head them ?
I believe there is no multi-unit support for this one.
I don't see a MU cable soo no.
I'll probably have to keep the DM3 aside for shunting only, that's way too much of a pain for haul work.
8:00 why is any of this confusing?
you have exactly the same configuration on the flick dials in other locos, here's it's just exploded into three separate switches.
type switch: with flick dials you go to the left or to the right, here you just select one or the other.
switches: with flick dials you go 0, 1, 2 steps in any one direction, here you just make a combination.
essentially there are 2^3 = 8 states in total and this is probably true for both input mechanisms.
flick dials -> -3, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 (where positives indicate a white light; so 3 red states, 4 white states and off).
switches -> 0/0/0, 0/0/1, 0/1/0, 0/1/1, 1/0/0, 1/0/1, 1/1/0, 1/1/1 (exactly 8 combinations matching the above).
finally, in other locos you have two flick dials, front and rear, here you have two columns, front and rear.
Hey Squirrel, that's a great guide, the DM3's gears in particular really irritated me and I rode more by ear. One question that brought me here.... is it more worth spending the money on a DM3 or rather the double traction for the DE2. I know at the end of the day you have the licences for all the locos anyway, but just when you are working your way up you are faced with the decision of what is more profitable per run.
I wish for an answer to this question too
Squirrel, can you cover BOTH steam engines later on? I am interested in the changes that are being applied according to the developers
There are 2 now?
@@RM-wo6km Yes, They are adding a 0-6-0 tank engine (Which has been after the update to get it done.)
@@jamesgraham4586It is also why I asked for a video on the steam engines in the first place. Not only is there another one, but the controls to them are also updated to be more realistic as well.
The 0-6-0 will be delayed by around 2 weeks
Squirrel only can do what the devs want him to, since hes beta tester with permission. the 0-6-0 im sure will be great, as will the new 2-8-2 revamp. all in good time.. i assure you they havent taken steam out :)
I wonder what the optimal RPM is. Engines are usually more efficient at low RPMs and high load. The problem is that in the circumstances of low RPM/high Load you get lots of heat and stress.
I run my between 600 and 800 and I only repair the engine from time to time. Definitely avoid staying in low (sub 200) and high (over 1000) RPM for prolonged periods of time, as well as shifting gears with throttle/engine brake engaged. These 2 things are brutal to the engine. If you avoid these, you'll be golden.
Thank you Squirrel. I really appreciate the how to on this. I would think the DM3 is more powerful then the DE2.
I love shunters, the 03, 04.. This is heaven for me, an 03ish thing with a split gearbox. i can see it delighting ETS2 players to cross that road/rail divide
Right up my alley
I seriously don't get it. No matter how hard I try to understand, this gear sequence just doesn't make sense to me. Why does it go 1,1 / 1,2 / 2,1 / 2,2 / 3,1 / 3,2 / 2,3 / 3,3? Wouldn't it make more sense to go 1,1 / 1,2 / 1,3 / 2,1 / 2,2 / 2,3 / 3,1 / 3,2 / 3,3? Can we get a separate whole video explaining how this particular gear sequence makes any logical sense at all? lol
😊eu gosto muito desse jogo ele tem português Br também é incrível 👍😍🤩
Honestly this is my favorite little loco. I was gutted when i found out it is only a 100t increase to the de2. Considering it’s on par size wise to the diesel hydraulic at 800t. But then again it has 4 sets of motors over the 3. Still a great shunter and a recommended upgrade to the de2 asap for shunting or small halls
100t over the DE2 ?
DE2 can barely do 200t, DM3 can do like 600t
@@user-si5fm8ql3c the de2 can do 400t the dm3 is rated for 500t