Hi man, i bought an L3 WS PVS 14 gen 3 in "just" 1,300 USD What I should check? I´m worried about the life time of the intensifer tube, some thing broke or dust Give me an advice please, I still in time to give back if the product don´t work. thanks man and excellent video.
That it meets your expectations. The expectations on an item for which you've paid ~ 40% less than retail. If your worried about tube life, dust or parts breaking, return it. Whether you use it or not, it will fail at some point. No matter what we do, everything will wear out, get damage or simply fail from the aging process.
I have an older model like the one in the video and I want to switch it to a single battery housing- I assume the circuit interrupter lead and gain adjustment installation is the same? Yes or no? Also- when I do this will nitrogen entering this part of the system compromise performance?
I have several questions. Is this a kit or did the parts get bought separately? If so what if any are the savings. I see that the normal cost is around 3K+ for this monocular but i really don't want o spend that much. I appreciate any answer. Thanks.
So I can contact one of the vendors in the video description and they'll sell me all the individual parts to do this? Which particular one do you suggest? Or do I need to go through more than one vendor to get all the parts I need/more affordably?
A complete PVS-14 parts kit will come with all the necessary components and will be the cheapest option when buying new from a reputable vendor. All the vendor listed should be able to help you. Here's an example of what a PVS-14 kit can be expected to contain: www.ultimatenightvision.com/PVS-14-Parts-Kit-p/unv-14-pk.htm This is also a great option: www.ultimatenightvision.com/Vyper-14-Parts-Kit-p/unv-vy14-pk.htm
I purchased a PVS14 that seems to have no infinity lock ring. It looks like from this video that I'll have to tear it completely down to install one? What would be the reasoning for someone to build one without an infinity lock ring? I see it mentioned in a few threads around the Internet. Will it effect me much if I just leave it off?
Yes, the entire system will need to be disassembled to install the infinity stop. It may very well be that the infinity stop simply cracked and was removed prior to your acquiring it or the builder just didn't feel the need to source one. As to whether you should install one, you most certainly should. With out this stop you run the risk of damaging the tube since the objective can over travel and potentially exert a significant amount of force on the face of the image intensifier. You may want to purchase a basic tool kit from here: www.abnightvision.com/collections/night-vision-tools-accessories
Carpe Nocturnum thanks so much for the reply. with the tool kit and your video is that all I need? ive been reading I shouldn't disassemble anything without the ability to nitrogen purge, any truth to that?
Patience and the tool kit are all you need. A properly sealed system is of much greater importance than whether or not the internal atmosphere is nitrogen, argon or atmospheric air. Pulling a vacuum on the system to insure the system is properly seals more import and than purging yet this isn't ever brought up. To directly address your question, no, you don't need to have the ability to purge before disassembling the system. If you can purge the system great otherwise don't worry about it. There are a significant number of system that aren't purged. You can buy this Argon wine preserving kit and DIY as many purges as you like from your kitchen table. www.amazon.com/Pek-Preservino-Hand-Held-Preserver/dp/B000JLIREG www.preservino.com/store.aspx?prod_id=134&cat_id=1 Only buy kits with 100% Argon, not those that use a mix of Argon, CO2 and Nitrogen.
hey, nice video, have question have a damm micro hair between the image intensifier and the ocular lens, if disassemble the ocular lens for clean it , later I should do the nitrogen purged? or just its inside the housing the nitrogen
I watched this video tutorial several times, and I would like to say that it is very useful. I have one question, as I am not too familiar with the PVS-14 internal wiring. What is the purpose of the "circuit interrupt leads" ??? Thank you in advance.
+Carpe Nocturnum So, would it be possible to bypass the flip up feature by not installing the lead, or by fabricating a jumper for the contact? I don't find it the least bit useful since I have to cycle power to get them to turn back on when flipped down, unlike the anvis-6 that turns on and off automatically.
+Skinflaps Meatslapper Yes, though I'm not an advocate of bypassing this feature as it's saved many units from damage. There are numerous ways to disable the cutoff, though if your going to disconnect a socket or both I suggest you cap the pin/s and socket/s with shrink tubing or an insulator of your choice.
Hello there, I just got a relatively cheap ATN gen 3 pvs14, which was cheap for a reason. There's intense blinking / flickering when it isn't extremely dark, we're talking ambient light from night sky entering a room's white wall during is enough to trigger the blinking. Before I hunt for a tube replacement, I read that it blinking / flickering could be caused by arcing and that it's not insulated properly. Would that be a possible explanation for when the unit does that only when "too much" light enters the unit? (by too much I mean... very very little, clearly the unit is faulty), any tips would be appreciated, thanks!
+aaron4820 Either the tube's high voltage power supply is faulty or the variable resistors used for adjusting voltage to the various components have been adjusted improperly. If your in the U.S. get in touch with the folks over at HVM www.hvmtech.com/hv_solutions.php to see what your options are.
+Carpe Nocturnum Great, thanks very much for the advice! I've since returned it to the seller after a few further test as the unit is just entirely un-usable with the flickering kicking in at such dim light level. Appreciate the help, good day.
Night Vision Depot www.nvdepot.com Michael Graham 1 (610) 395-9743 Ultimate Night Vision Tyler Adair or Richard Ishihara www.ultimatenightvision.com/All-Products-s/2452.htm 1 (800) 769-0159 Summit Night Vision www.summitnig...mage_tubes.html Stefan Pryor 1 (972) 992-0046 Adams Industries www.adamsindustries.com Chris Adams 1 (308) 254-6322 Outer Edge Optics www.nvmods.com Tom Lyons 1 (214) 789-5110 Ident Marking Services identmarking....ght-vision-page Jason Crum 1 (469) 464-5500 MODArmory www.modarmory.com Hunter Hamilton 1 (719) 325-8070 I^2 Technologies www.isquarednightvision.com/ Peter Lesbo 1 (208) 944-4299 This is by no means an exhaustive list nor are they listed in a preferential order but should get you started should you need a tube. Take Care!
Carpe Nocturnum Hey thanks for that. Unfortunately my brand new PVS14 Gen 2+ has an "emission point" in zone 4 of the tube. Do you know of emission points go out on their own or will later destroy the tube as time goes on? Also do you know of any possible repairs for that? It's a shame the unit came like that in a new condition. Though I assume the the tubes were from failed MIL Spec tubes or something along the lines of that which I got a good price on it from where I ordered it.
If the emission is a cathode emission, it is possible to use a laser rework technique to eliminate the cathode emission. Though emission points can cause catastrophic tube failure, those that are no brighter or larger than background scintillations are usually of no concern and either remain stable or 'burn' themselves out. An emission point rework service was offered by a brilliant physicist named Timothy Sinor. I'm not sure if he's still offering the service but it wouldn't hurt to get in contact with him. You could also contact Jason Crum over at Ident Marking Services as I believe the service was run out of Jason's shop identmarking.com/index.php/shop-online
Which part of the PVS ar you supposed to purge and fill with Nitrogen ? I opened the battery housing of mine the other day to check for a loose cable or so. I have some issues with my NVG shutting down randomly after prolonged use (1 or 2h)
+Robin L The completely assembled unit! As for your unit randomly shutting off, if these random shut downs require a re-cycling of the power switch, a component of either the auto off circuit is triggering the shut down or the photodiode in the high light cut off circuit is malfunctioning thereby triggering a shut down. If you hand holding the unit, something as simple as a finger touching the external contact points of the auto off circuit can trigger a shut down.
i broke one of the circuit interupt leads on the battery compartment and the pin on the housing, is this a magnetic switch meant to turn on and off with some mounts? will it work without them?
hemiram05 The primary purpose of purging a system such as a PVS-14 is to introduce a gaseous insulator that acts to reduce thermal shock between the internal and external atmospheres. If this insulating effect is discounted, then the main purpose of purging is effectively eliminated and it is unlikely for there to be any effect from not purging. However, if a system, such as a PVS-14 were to be assembled in a corrosive atmosphere, say one in which high concentrations of SO2 were present, then it's possible for there to be accelerated corrosion of exposed contacts and/or components including the optical coatings on the internal lens elements. Maintaining a truly effective non-reactive, insulatory atmosphere within the system will require very regular purging, optimally every 3 months.
15˚-20˚past Tinker Bell snug is tight enough. Torquing to hamfisted gorilla snug will be a bit to much. So long as the ocular assembly doesn't rotate with diopter adjustments you should be GTG.
+Chris Tolentino Purging is simpler than bleeding a single brake line and nowhere near as messy. My videos are to serve as a basic guide to those with zero access to proper equipment. A video is unlikely as most won't have the equipment to follow along.
Hey, what is the estimated cost to build a pvs-14 yourself? I have seen packages ranging from $600-$1000 for the housing minus the amplifying tube. I have seen the tubes anywhere from $500 to over $1000. I have limited knowledge on the components, and what to look for. What is the best way to go about this? Thanks
+SuperShooterX Complete housing assembly is around $650, the tubes are the hard part to find. They range from $400 with heavy blemishes to $2500+ for amazing new tubes. Do a lot of homework before you buy a tube, lots of shady sellers out there too. Also check out ABnightvision.com, good folks with outstanding products.
Yes! You need not have touch any NVG to assemble. Building yourself allows you to build to your standards, you control every aspect of the build. The majority of retailers, who build these up, don't do any better of a job than the end user could do. If you need a primer video, here's a good one th-cam.com/video/nzzwWOuhhK0/w-d-xo.html
Uses a hydrophilic coating to increase wettability at the surface. The increased degree of wetting, produced by the hydrophilic coating, reduces surface tension which results in a thin and continuous layer of water over the surface. Some demist shields are known to reduce visual acuity, it's preferable to apply an anti-fog agent directly to the exterior of the lens than using a demist shield.
@@cnoct would looking with naked eyes at the glowing bulb of 940nm IR be totally invisible? or the red glow still be visible? and are they safe to look at?
@@pastelambong Unless the beam divergence is significant, distance from the emitter is great and total output is very low, I wouldn't look at it. It's personally not something I'm comfortable doing. As for a 940nm LED emitter being visible, sure, just depends how much of it's spectra is in visible wavelengths.
@@jorgepablolopezmola4684 The patent isn't really what what makes them expensive (various competitors like L3 have been able to get around patents with their own technology), it is the fact that it is very hard to produce usable units. They produce a whole bunch and like only 10% are usable, and of that 10% only like half will be flawless enough to be usable in military service. That's why you find blemished tubes on the market all the time, which is great for us builders.
@@3000gtwelder Know your gear right, building yourself is so much more than just the $$$. Another video to reference when building is th-cam.com/video/nzzwWOuhhK0/w-d-xo.html 🖖🏻 🤘
everywhere and i mean every friggin where i look the damn intensifier tube doesnt come with the kit and nowhere has one. unless that is you know a guy who knows a guy
The past decade a whole bunch of people learned they can make their own units and have bought up parts kits and tubes. These days it is cheaper to buy a surplus unit and buy extra tubes whenever you come across it, and then buy the parts kit. There are also more companies buying up these tubes direct from military surplus and private auctions to use in their own builds so that is another factor in why there are less parts trickling down to us laymen.
Excellent!
🖖🏻
Well done sir!
I should have written down my tube number before putting mine back together.
Carpe Nocturnum, Can you post a video on "How to Build a PVS-7"?
Outstanding video. It helped my very much. Thank you.
your vids are great!!
nice choice on the music =)
Hi man, i bought an L3 WS PVS 14 gen 3 in "just" 1,300 USD
What I should check? I´m worried about the life time of the intensifer tube, some thing broke or dust
Give me an advice please, I still in time to give back if the product don´t work. thanks man and excellent video.
That it meets your expectations. The expectations on an item for which you've paid ~ 40% less than retail. If your worried about tube life, dust or parts breaking, return it. Whether you use it or not, it will fail at some point. No matter what we do, everything will wear out, get damage or simply fail from the aging process.
I have an older model like the one in the video and I want to switch it to a single battery housing- I assume the circuit interrupter lead and gain adjustment installation is the same? Yes or no? Also- when I do this will nitrogen entering this part of the system compromise performance?
Where are some places to purchase the tubes? Also for autogated tubes ect is there any difference in assembly?
I have several questions. Is this a kit or did the parts get bought separately? If so what if any are the savings. I see that the normal cost is around 3K+ for this monocular but i really don't want o spend that much. I appreciate any answer. Thanks.
So I can contact one of the vendors in the video description and they'll sell me all the individual parts to do this? Which particular one do you suggest? Or do I need to go through more than one vendor to get all the parts I need/more affordably?
A complete PVS-14 parts kit will come with all the necessary components and will be the cheapest option when buying new from a reputable vendor. All the vendor listed should be able to help you. Here's an example of what a PVS-14 kit can be expected to contain: www.ultimatenightvision.com/PVS-14-Parts-Kit-p/unv-14-pk.htm
This is also a great option: www.ultimatenightvision.com/Vyper-14-Parts-Kit-p/unv-vy14-pk.htm
Carpe Nocturnum thanks for the info! Now looking for best deal on tube
I purchased a PVS14 that seems to have no infinity lock ring. It looks like from this video that I'll have to tear it completely down to install one? What would be the reasoning for someone to build one without an infinity lock ring? I see it mentioned in a few threads around the Internet. Will it effect me much if I just leave it off?
Yes, the entire system will need to be disassembled to install the infinity stop. It may very well be that the infinity stop simply cracked and was removed prior to your acquiring it or the builder just didn't feel the need to source one. As to whether you should install one, you most certainly should. With out this stop you run the risk of damaging the tube since the objective can over travel and potentially exert a significant amount of force on the face of the image intensifier. You may want to purchase a basic tool kit from here: www.abnightvision.com/collections/night-vision-tools-accessories
Carpe Nocturnum thanks so much for the reply. with the tool kit and your video is that all I need? ive been reading I shouldn't disassemble anything without the ability to nitrogen purge, any truth to that?
Patience and the tool kit are all you need. A properly sealed system is of much greater importance than whether or not the internal atmosphere is nitrogen, argon or atmospheric air. Pulling a vacuum on the system to insure the system is properly seals more import and than purging yet this isn't ever brought up. To directly address your question, no, you don't need to have the ability to purge before disassembling the system. If you can purge the system great otherwise don't worry about it. There are a significant number of system that aren't purged.
You can buy this Argon wine preserving kit and DIY as many purges as you like from your kitchen table.
www.amazon.com/Pek-Preservino-Hand-Held-Preserver/dp/B000JLIREG
www.preservino.com/store.aspx?prod_id=134&cat_id=1
Only buy kits with 100% Argon, not those that use a mix of Argon, CO2 and Nitrogen.
hey, nice video, have question have a damm micro hair between the image intensifier and the ocular lens, if disassemble the ocular lens for clean it , later I should do the nitrogen purged? or just its inside the housing the nitrogen
I watched this video tutorial several times, and I would like to say that it is very useful. I have one question, as I am not too familiar with the PVS-14 internal wiring. What is the purpose of the "circuit interrupt leads" ??? Thank you in advance.
+Brain Byte
The 'circuit interrupt leads' connect the internal and external components of 'flip-up cutoff' system.
+Carpe Nocturnum
So, would it be possible to bypass the flip up feature by not installing the lead, or by fabricating a jumper for the contact? I don't find it the least bit useful since I have to cycle power to get them to turn back on when flipped down, unlike the anvis-6 that turns on and off automatically.
+Skinflaps Meatslapper
Yes, though I'm not an advocate of bypassing this feature as it's saved many units from damage. There are numerous ways to disable the cutoff, though if your going to disconnect a socket or both I suggest you cap the pin/s and socket/s with shrink tubing or an insulator of your choice.
Hello there, I just got a relatively cheap ATN gen 3 pvs14, which was cheap for a reason. There's intense blinking / flickering when it isn't extremely dark, we're talking ambient light from night sky entering a room's white wall during is enough to trigger the blinking. Before I hunt for a tube replacement, I read that it blinking / flickering could be caused by arcing and that it's not insulated properly. Would that be a possible explanation for when the unit does that only when "too much" light enters the unit? (by too much I mean... very very little, clearly the unit is faulty), any tips would be appreciated, thanks!
+aaron4820
Either the tube's high voltage power supply is faulty or the variable resistors used for adjusting voltage to the various components have been adjusted improperly. If your in the U.S. get in touch with the folks over at HVM www.hvmtech.com/hv_solutions.php to see what your options are.
+Carpe Nocturnum Great, thanks very much for the advice! I've since returned it to the seller after a few further test as the unit is just entirely un-usable with the flickering kicking in at such dim light level. Appreciate the help, good day.
Awesome video. I have a question though if you don't mind? Eventually Gen 2 and 3 tubes go out, where can you buy replacements at? Thanks.
Night Vision Depot
www.nvdepot.com
Michael Graham
1 (610) 395-9743
Ultimate Night Vision
Tyler Adair or Richard Ishihara
www.ultimatenightvision.com/All-Products-s/2452.htm
1 (800) 769-0159
Summit Night Vision
www.summitnig...mage_tubes.html
Stefan Pryor
1 (972) 992-0046
Adams Industries
www.adamsindustries.com
Chris Adams
1 (308) 254-6322
Outer Edge Optics
www.nvmods.com
Tom Lyons
1 (214) 789-5110
Ident Marking Services
identmarking....ght-vision-page
Jason Crum
1 (469) 464-5500
MODArmory
www.modarmory.com
Hunter Hamilton
1 (719) 325-8070
I^2 Technologies
www.isquarednightvision.com/
Peter Lesbo
1 (208) 944-4299
This is by no means an exhaustive list nor are they listed in a preferential order but should get you started should you need a tube.
Take Care!
Carpe Nocturnum Hey thanks for that. Unfortunately my brand new PVS14 Gen 2+ has an "emission point" in zone 4 of the tube. Do you know of emission points go out on their own or will later destroy the tube as time goes on? Also do you know of any possible repairs for that? It's a shame the unit came like that in a new condition. Though I assume the the tubes were from failed MIL Spec tubes or something along the lines of that which I got a good price on it from where I ordered it.
If the emission is a cathode emission, it is possible to use a laser rework technique to eliminate the cathode emission. Though emission points can cause catastrophic tube failure, those that are no brighter or larger than background scintillations are usually of no concern and either remain stable or 'burn' themselves out.
An emission point rework service was offered by a brilliant physicist named Timothy Sinor. I'm not sure if he's still offering the service but it wouldn't hurt to get in contact with him. You could also contact Jason Crum over at Ident Marking Services as I believe the service was run out of Jason's shop identmarking.com/index.php/shop-online
@@cnoct Awesome list thanks man. I got my first PVS awhile ago but since I’m an electronics nerd I can’t wait to assemble my first scratch built!
@@XJ290 Be sure to give build videos from others a review as well. Here's to your build 🤘 and 🖖🏻.
And somehow, to some company, this is worth $3000 dollars.
That's lowballing it 😜
Which part of the PVS ar you supposed to purge and fill with Nitrogen ?
I opened the battery housing of mine the other day to check for a loose cable or so. I have some issues with my NVG shutting down randomly after prolonged use (1 or 2h)
+Robin L
The completely assembled unit!
As for your unit randomly shutting off, if these random shut downs require a re-cycling of the power switch, a component of either the auto off circuit is triggering the shut down or the photodiode in the high light cut off circuit is malfunctioning thereby triggering a shut down. If you hand holding the unit, something as simple as a finger touching the external contact points of the auto off circuit can trigger a shut down.
ok thx !
i broke one of the circuit interupt leads on the battery compartment and the pin on the housing, is this a magnetic switch meant to turn on and off with some mounts? will it work without them?
Yes and Yes🖖🏻.
What happens, besides fogging, if you use it without purging?
hemiram05
The primary purpose of purging a system such as a PVS-14 is to introduce a gaseous insulator that acts to reduce thermal shock between the internal and external atmospheres. If this insulating effect is discounted, then the main purpose of purging is effectively eliminated and it is unlikely for there to be any effect from not purging. However, if a system, such as a PVS-14 were to be assembled in a corrosive atmosphere, say one in which high concentrations of SO2 were present, then it's possible for there to be accelerated corrosion of exposed contacts and/or components including the optical coatings on the internal lens elements. Maintaining a truly effective non-reactive, insulatory atmosphere within the system will require very regular purging, optimally every 3 months.
How tight do you want to have the rear ocular lense and rear ocular lock ring?
15˚-20˚past Tinker Bell snug is tight enough.
Torquing to hamfisted gorilla snug will be a bit to much.
So long as the ocular assembly doesn't rotate with diopter adjustments you should be GTG.
Can you post a video on how to purge a pvs 14 system? Is it even possible to do on your own?
+Chris Tolentino
Purging is simpler than bleeding a single brake line and nowhere near as messy. My videos are to serve as a basic guide to those with zero access to proper equipment. A video is unlikely as most won't have the equipment to follow along.
where can you get nitrogen purging done if you build it yourself? or is there a DIY for that?
Either DIY or send it out to a vendor that offers such a service.
Gostaria de comprar peças para construir um escopo noturno vc pode me dizer onde comprar?
Hey, what is the estimated cost to build a pvs-14 yourself? I have seen packages ranging from $600-$1000 for the housing minus the amplifying tube. I have seen the tubes anywhere from $500 to over $1000. I have limited knowledge on the components, and what to look for. What is the best way to go about this?
Thanks
+SuperShooterX Complete housing assembly is around $650, the tubes are the hard part to find. They range from $400 with heavy blemishes to $2500+ for amazing new tubes. Do a lot of homework before you buy a tube, lots of shady sellers out there too. Also check out ABnightvision.com, good folks with outstanding products.
Is it hard to build it yourself?
No, very easy. No harder than making homemade cookies.
@@cnoct Do you recommend a person who have never touched nvg to assembly yourself than buying from retailer?
Yes! You need not have touch any NVG to assemble. Building yourself allows you to build to your standards, you control every aspect of the build. The majority of retailers, who build these up, don't do any better of a job than the end user could do. If you need a primer video, here's a good one th-cam.com/video/nzzwWOuhhK0/w-d-xo.html
how do demist shields work?
Uses a hydrophilic coating to increase wettability at the surface. The increased degree of wetting, produced by the hydrophilic coating, reduces surface tension which results in a thin and continuous layer of water over the surface.
Some demist shields are known to reduce visual acuity, it's preferable to apply an anti-fog agent directly to the exterior of the lens than using a demist shield.
Do you sell any night optics?
@@pastelambong No
@@cnoct would looking with naked eyes at the glowing bulb of 940nm IR be totally invisible? or the red glow still be visible? and are they safe to look at?
@@pastelambong Unless the beam divergence is significant, distance from the emitter is great and total output is very low, I wouldn't look at it. It's personally not something I'm comfortable doing. As for a 940nm LED emitter being visible, sure, just depends how much of it's spectra is in visible wavelengths.
why the hell are these so damn expensive??? theres like nothing inside
Michael Breu lenses and patented technology
@@BunglowBill Military patented technology
its what the others have said + intensifier tubes, as these are really expensive
@@jorgepablolopezmola4684 The patent isn't really what what makes them expensive (various competitors like L3 have been able to get around patents with their own technology), it is the fact that it is very hard to produce usable units. They produce a whole bunch and like only 10% are usable, and of that 10% only like half will be flawless enough to be usable in military service. That's why you find blemished tubes on the market all the time, which is great for us builders.
How much is it !!!??????
New around 2800 or 3500 USD, just the light intensifer is around 2k (the more expensive part, soooo you can make your numbers)
What’s up with the music 😂
🤪
@@cnoct I think I'm gonna have to build one, now that I've heard it's so much cheaper.
@@3000gtwelder Know your gear right, building yourself is so much more than just the $$$. Another video to reference when building is th-cam.com/video/nzzwWOuhhK0/w-d-xo.html
🖖🏻 🤘
Would you happen to know where I could buy the housing for a EEV P8514KV ? I would appreciate it allot. Pm me on info.
Cheers mate
everywhere and i mean every friggin where i look the damn intensifier tube doesnt come with the kit and nowhere has one. unless that is you know a guy who knows a guy
The past decade a whole bunch of people learned they can make their own units and have bought up parts kits and tubes. These days it is cheaper to buy a surplus unit and buy extra tubes whenever you come across it, and then buy the parts kit. There are also more companies buying up these tubes direct from military surplus and private auctions to use in their own builds so that is another factor in why there are less parts trickling down to us laymen.
Светит только белым как перевести на зелёный свет
Must exchange tube for one with a green type phosphor e.g. P-20, P-22, P-43 etc...