My personal experience with the "Diacord". including a comparison lens test, satisfied me that not only is the Dia more elegantly designed and better built than th Yahicamats,but the lens is a whole class step up, more like a Tessar equivalent.
Thanks for the video. I bought one of these (with the meter) in an op shop but there is a tiny screw missing on the lightmeter on the side, causing the clear plastic protecting the red indicator needle to sort of fall in on the needle. Will it be okay if I unscrew the lightmeter housing and try to reposition everything with a new screw (if I can find one)? Otherwise, everything seems to work, even though it looks a bit rougher than yours.
My old Diacord L is failing and thought to replace it with another, keeping my old friend as a donor camera. A Ricoh Auto 225 has been recommended and the Minolta Autocord. I'll get another Diacord.
Thanks for the video...I just purchased a ricohflex from your easy store...I shoot film (35mm) this will be my first medium format camera...thanks again cant wait to get it
At one time, I considered using a TLR, and I had access to a well stocked camera store inventory, so I did lens test chart shot comparisons of the following: Autocord, Ikofles (Tessar), Rolleicord (Xenar), Diacord, Yashicamat 124G(Yashinon) and Rolleiflex (Planar 3.5). This was motivated by having some optical issues with film images shot in the Rolleiflex, which I was planning to buy. The Rolleiflex turned out to have a serious calibration error between taking and focusing lenses. I decided not to buy it because while the fix was easy, it was clear that some prior, ignorant owner had been screwing around under the hood, so to speak. Test results among the 4 element Tessar-copies and the real Tessar: Best:: the Minolta Autocord, by a small margin. I don't know what Minolta did to their lens, but it is the best Tessar type out there. Next, the real Tessar and Xenar were equal but a bit less sharp than the Autocord at all apertures. The Diacord was a bit behind the to Rollei cameras, but not by so much as to make a real world different in the photos taken. The Yashicamat was a huge disappointment, the more so for being a like-new version a friend had purchased. All I can say is the I'd never spend the $250-400 asking price for a nice condition TLR (with its other known issues) when so many better cameras are out there and less costly.
@Japan Vintage Camera I just bought the L model recently. The ligthmeter is not working! Can it be the cells that ended its life (the camera came with Case). The dial where the needle is does not have the plastic protection anymore and seems that someone already opened the case dial attempting to repair it. Is it a simple thing to work out in terms of repairing?
The usual problem with the meters in these cameras are either bad connections or that the selenium light meter cell degrades. The first thing to check is the selenium cell, when exposed to light it should generate a small amount of voltage which you can check with a electrical multimeter. If the cell is producing voltage which changes as the light increases, the cell may be good. If the cell is good, you must check the connections where they are soldered, and finally the meter mechanism itself. The cell and meter are hard to replace, the connections are not so difficult to fix if they are weak or broken.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 thank you for taking your time to reply. I will try to check connections. But even though I am going to shoot with the camera using a hand ligthmeter!
My personal experience with the "Diacord". including a comparison lens test, satisfied me that not only is the Dia more elegantly designed and better built than th Yahicamats,but the lens is a whole class step up, more like a Tessar equivalent.
Thanks for the video. I bought one of these (with the meter) in an op shop but there is a tiny screw missing on the lightmeter on the side, causing the clear plastic protecting the red indicator needle to sort of fall in on the needle. Will it be okay if I unscrew the lightmeter housing and try to reposition everything with a new screw (if I can find one)? Otherwise, everything seems to work, even though it looks a bit rougher than yours.
what is the fastest shutter speed of the camera?
1/500 second on the one I have.
Hello,
Are the Bay1 lens hood for this camera ?
yes, as most Japanese TLR with those bayonet hood mount
Yes, these use Bay 1 hoods.
My old Diacord L is failing and thought to replace it with another, keeping my old friend as a donor camera. A Ricoh Auto 225 has been recommended and the Minolta Autocord. I'll get another Diacord.
Thanks for the video! Just got a Diacord L at an antique store and looking forward to putting my first roll of 120 through it!
Thanks for the video...I just purchased a ricohflex from your easy store...I shoot film (35mm) this will be my first medium format camera...thanks again cant wait to get it
How do the lenses compare with the Yashica, Autocord, and Rolleicord?
At one time, I considered using a TLR, and I had access to a well stocked camera store inventory, so I did lens test chart shot comparisons of the following: Autocord, Ikofles (Tessar), Rolleicord (Xenar), Diacord, Yashicamat 124G(Yashinon) and Rolleiflex (Planar 3.5). This was motivated by having some optical issues with film images shot in the Rolleiflex, which I was planning to buy. The Rolleiflex turned out to have a serious calibration error between taking and focusing lenses. I decided not to buy it because while the fix was easy, it was clear that some prior, ignorant owner had been screwing around under the hood, so to speak. Test results among the 4 element Tessar-copies and the real Tessar: Best:: the Minolta Autocord, by a small margin. I don't know what Minolta did to their lens, but it is the best Tessar type out there. Next, the real Tessar and Xenar were equal but a bit less sharp than the Autocord at all apertures. The Diacord was a bit behind the to Rollei cameras, but not by so much as to make a real world different in the photos taken. The Yashicamat was a huge disappointment, the more so for being a like-new version a friend had purchased. All I can say is the I'd never spend the $250-400 asking price for a nice condition TLR (with its other known issues) when so many better cameras are out there and less costly.
Good job
I just bought one of these from eBay thank u for the video
Nice video! Thanks!
@3:30
@Japan Vintage Camera I just bought the L model recently. The ligthmeter is not working! Can it be the cells that ended its life (the camera came with Case). The dial where the needle is does not have the plastic protection anymore and seems that someone already opened the case dial attempting to repair it. Is it a simple thing to work out in terms of repairing?
The usual problem with the meters in these cameras are either bad connections or that the selenium light meter cell degrades. The first thing to check is the selenium cell, when exposed to light it should generate a small amount of voltage which you can check with a electrical multimeter. If the cell is producing voltage which changes as the light increases, the cell may be good. If the cell is good, you must check the connections where they are soldered, and finally the meter mechanism itself. The cell and meter are hard to replace, the connections are not so difficult to fix if they are weak or broken.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 thank you for taking your time to reply. I will try to check connections. But even though I am going to shoot with the camera using a hand ligthmeter!
@@japanvintagecamera8869 sorry to bother you again but could you please tell me if this Ricoh Diacord L is a bay 1 to put filters on its lens?
is there a self timer on the version with light meter?
Yes, there is, it's in the same spot as on the Yashica C.
THE RICOHFLEX (WITHOUT METER) THAT YOU ARE SHOWING HAS A 3 ELEMENT TAKING LENS. THE OTHER CAMERA HAS A 4 ELEMENT TAKING LENS.
If the camera has a Riconar lens, it is a triplet, or 3 element lens. If it has a Rikenon lens, then it is a 4 element lens.
The Diacord versions use the same 4 element Tessar copy lens. No 3 element lenses were installed in them.