I did my 1988 Civic drum break years ago, it is very refreshing to see how professional auto mechanic did it. Thanks for your video. Your explanation is quite clear and getting to the point. The video angles are quite good and clear. One of the best videos.
@@HowtoAutomotive , Thank you again. I got it done on both rear drum brake on replacing shoes, drum and wheel cylinder with new set of springs. First installation on the passenger side, I found that 1988 civic adjuster stud fork was too fat for the new shoes. A little bit of grinding to make it fit the bill. By the way, I was confused on the adjuster stud differences on its right or left turn in order to screw it in. I ended up came back to review your video which is on the passenger side wheel (by looking at the muffler is on its left side) and it is right turn (clockwise turn make it shorter). This saves me a tremendous trouble in the future. * By the way, I like to find that tool you used to push and turn the lock spring. I wish I had one like that and like to get one for the next use.
You're a hero. I spent hours trying to get the top spring on and with your method I had the brakes back on and assembled in about 10 minutes. THANK YOU!!!!
Thank you a million times for making this video. I have a 2012 civic and it’s pretty much the same. I’ve done lots of drum brakes but this one seemed weird until I watched your video. Takes all the mystery out of the brake adjuster
He made it look easy when he putting back. But in reality its harder that it seems. Those springs are hard to stretch out. I just did mine yesterday , i did it differently but it works for me.
Eyes wide shut for expert who do this constantly on a daily/weekly basis. They all are pretty much same from small cars, suv and sometimes trucks (GM/Chev) if your having problems with wheel hub check it any noise with too change it or just change everything. Remember to bleed the brakes, I note on the drum the date it has been changed like for example (04/27/20)
Bleeding the brakes, especially for drums, is a critical step. The ends of the wheel cylinders that contact the shoes can quite literally be pulled out of the cylinder itself with minimal force or by pushing one end in too far. Beyond that, as with any brake repair job or brake part replacement, removing any compressible gasses or other foreign materials, whether solid or liquid, from the brake lines is of the utmost importance to your safety, the safety of your passengers, and the safety of other people on the roads around you. As for these being a pain to install, I agree that pads and rotors are so much easier and more straight forward, but I almost enjoyed doing these on my Honda. It gave me a chance to get everything cleaned up for the new hub bearing assemblies, as well as took a drill with steel brushes and got the backing plates returned to much better condition with the removal of rust. All in all I enjoyed getting it all back together as a much more complex mechanical system and having it work as wee as or better than the old ones!
I am guessing a Honda Fit is the same thing, I will find out tomorrow. Last time i replaced drum breaks was back in the 90's. Just need a refresher course. A man that knows what he is doing, you made that look easy.
I just did my 2008 Civic, I saw every Civic drum brake video on yt accept yours!!! Wish I had!!!! Yours is the absolute best!!!!!!!!!!! Got mine done but damn do my fingers and hands hurt!!!!
Thanks for this! QUICK TIP: Use vice grips to take the springs off, then remove the clips holding on the shoe, then take them off... then do it in reverse! Way easier than trying to juggle the second shoe on
Let me first say this video will definitely give you what you need to replace your drum brakes... but let me tell you it’s not as easy as it looks.. this dude has probably replaced drum brakes 10,000 times!! Awesome job!
Brian, this is nothing short of a fantastic video. A good friend of mine is a Honda "master" technician as they are called at the dealership, and the process he uses, which I'm sure is a specific Honda method with a personal touch, is essentially exactly your process here. The step many struggle with, as I have seen personally helping people with their cars and on videos here, is the installation of the top most spring. I call it the "rotation method" and it takes all the danger of damaging the wheel cylinder out if the equation if your advice is heeded properly. Too many attempt to fight the spring on its home turf; meaning, they try to pull the spring along the linear axis where the spring is the strongest. Rotation introduces the lever, our simple machine best friend, to do our bidding. Once the shoe is seated in the cylinder notch and is rotated around that fulcrum, the forces pushing on the cylinder from each side begin to balance out quickly allowing for the focus to move to proper positioning of the front shoe. From there it takes no more than slight pressure from a single finger to hold the shoe in its desired place while installing the peripheral springs and retainer. I have been fixing up my '06 coupe 5mt to have something I can not worry about putting additional miles on and still know it's solid. I've owned it since December 2005 and all but 12 of the ~270k miles were driven by me. I had watched this some time ago while fixing up a friend's 2007 coupe nearly a year ago, and the process stuck with me to the point that I watched this after to make sure I hadn't screwed anything up. Nailed it!
Pushing in the hold-down springs without a special tool can be overcome by using a wide-blade screw driver. Place the screw driver blade on one side of the hold-down spring in the groove and press in and turn slightly, whilst holding the dowel in place from behind. It only takes a slight turn for the dowel to catch, but once it is hooked, you can then move it completely into the grove with needle nose pliers. I spent three hours one night trying everything to get something to work, and stumbled across this trick. Good luck.
A lot of information and straight to the point. The best part about this video was simply just that. Straight to the point. This video was very well made and I am thankful for it
This video works for a 2012 honda civic lx. I also wanted to add that I used two M12 -1.25 mm x 35 mm metric class 8.8 bolts from home depot to remove the drums. I also used clear tubing from home depot to bleed the brakes, but I can't find the size. It's probably the second thinnest tubing they sell. Hope this helps.
Thank you so much for doing this video!! The part I like best is installing the opposite shoe. I would usually try to spread the large spring up top after the two shoes are installed and I would stretch it out and end up having one of the piston boots come off in the process of stretching the spring and make a mess. It took me half the time to do my rear brakes. This is the best video!!
I was struggling so hard taking the top spring off in my 2010 Honda Insight, which has the same exact drum brake setup in this video. When I tried your method of removing old shoes and assembly of new shoes, I was finally able to get this job done sooner. Most videos start with removing that longer top spring which is on there super tight, but that never worked for me. I don't have vice grips and don't wanna use side cutters, so there had to be a better way, which is to remove the shorter bottom spring. Doing that is way easier and quicker.
Thank you. I spent countless hours trying to install the top spring on each side of my vehicle. Each time I tried I failed. I sat back and scratched my head many many times. Thank you.🤣
Just one trick to add is when get the shoes close to postion with the drum, go in and press the brake pedal with both drums on and see if it frees up the drum. This process centers the brake pads. once i thought I had adjusted them tight enough and pressed the pedal and they were pretty loose and then adjusted them a bit more and they were perfect
I watched this video 3 times before I started the job on my 2008 Civic. I have done disk brakes many times an never had any issues, but this job one one problem after another. It is not as simple as the video led me to believe. First, was unable stretch the return spring enough to release the shoes. I found no place to get enough leverage. I ended up using a bolt cutter to cut the spring. Second, I did not have the special pliers with the wedge that permits spreading the horseshoe clamp. I tried buy could not remove the parking brake pin from the rear brake shoe. The rear brake had very little wear, so I decided to keep it. Third. In replacing the rear brake shoe, I had trouble replacing the retaining clip. Ever thing kept slipping out of place. You really need 3 hands to do this task! Fourth: Even though the replacement spring was an exact duplicate of the original. I could not get it to hook up to the rear brake shoe. The parking brake assemble arm blocked access to the triangular slot . This, of course, is a show stopper, so I'm still trying to find a way to make it work.
Super helpful dude, you def have a sequence going on here that makes it a bit easier and quicker than trying to thread every spring through one at a time. This video is also relevant to anyone with a Honda Fit. Exact same drum brake setup
Hey i changed brake shoes on the left side and the cylinder pistons came out put back in and finished that one side, but i didn't change passenger side yet. If the passenger side pistons stay in, do i have to bleed all 4 brake cylinders are just the side that came out?
Honda Engineer for Drums is something so simple yet over complicated. Whoever invented these are the devil, why didn't they just include Rear Rotors to the LX model? It's just insane to save a couple of pennies.
Well done as always!!. WHY can’t people learn the killers of doing most wrong! Like pure ignorance, especially with profanity which will offend those Who choose to use English, but will never offend those who speak like sailors. It’s a win/win. And conceivably ruining the video. BIG things like, loud annoying music, poor sound or bubbling. Attempting to pad their lack of knowledge. As a NASE cert.mechanic for 40 years, “just a car nut,” that rarely does a Honda and even with tiny hands, Uuuuuh, that can’t fit and hasn’t done this one or drums, for 10 years, “I never did it for a living, I got wanted my tech degree before I went to college”, it was nice to be refreshed and feel confident while taking a much needed bad back break. So much to be learned by You tubers trying to build a channel for the masses. Another hero to add to my list. It’s called doing it right! Thanks again, A simple Thorough and refreshing Video, Lee,FL
Great video man! lol I will leave this up to my mechanic to do the labor. The upside is that now I know how the process works, and I know all the components that ideally should be replaced. I’m here after getting cursed out by a customer’s mom for selling a car in which the drum’s failed after a few month of ownership. The downside to the drum brake system is that when they fail, they will fail hard. The brakes worked just fine on the car before selling the car. Moving forward, my buy here pay here dealership will be replacing the drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and hardware on all used cars we sell. Same thing applies for brake pads and rotors. We also are getting our customer’s car fixed. Thank goodness we have the wiggle room to replace stuff like this. I can only imagine the issues that Independent cash car dealers run into. They can’t mark up their prices much like buy here pay here dealer’s can, therefore it’s not much wiggle room for them to fix the cars. Then if cash dealers do try to fix everything properly, they can’t sell the car because cash buyers usually will not want to pay the increased cost of the car associated with all the repairs. At the end of the day, dealer financing allows dealers the wiggle room to properly fix used cars, especially vehicles more than 6 years old.
I really like the order you do the shoes in. It avoids trying to pull the big spring with pliers, which is always a challenge. I have a quesiton though. When I was doing my rear shoes on my civic, I pulled the spring too hard without holding the shoes and the brake cylinder popped out and a little bit of brake fluid leaked out. I put it back together, but my question is: Do I now need to replace the wheel cylinder because some brake fluid leaked out when the wheel cylinder got pushed too much to one side? Did I damage the wheel cylinder?
Michael Most likely you will not need to replace the cylinder after putting it back together. You will need to bleed the brakes when you’re done. To be on the safe side I would drive it for a few miles pull the drum back apart and just make sure that it’s not leaking.
@@HowtoAutomotive Thanks for the response. I have been watching my brake level in my resevoir and it hasn't moved or gotten low. Btw, you should show everyone this method you use because it is so much easier than the way I was shown to do it. All the other people tell me to remove the big spring first, but that spring is quite hard to remove. Your way is so much better. I really love your method regarding brake drums. Awesome. I just subscribed to your channel.
This guy is a true mechanic. I was stressed just thinking about doing this job. Just follow the video and you'll be fine. Only thing I did different was to remove the parking brake cable so that it was easier taking off the horseshoe clip(hardest part about the job). Also push in the brake piston by hand to give yourself more room to leverage the last brake shoes in place.
I just replace the shoes and drums in my 2006 honda civic lx sedan I follow all your instructions and man I did really good I only didn't have the special tools to take the clips of and I had a hard time with horse shoe clip but other than that I have new shoes and drums in honda, thank you 😉😎
Thanks for sharing the information. I watched the video and I changed my rear brakes. But after changing by rear brake pads, my pedal and my parking brake both are not working. My pedal brake hardly stop my car even at very slow speed 15-20km/hr and my pedal also goes all the down. While changing brake pads, I poped out one side if my cylinder ans some oil leaks from that cylinder, I cleaned the part and put it back. But after I put on everything and I did my test drive. I figured out none of my brakes are working. Please tell me what to do now? My pedal brake working only like 10% and even the pedal goes all the way down. I also added brake fluid in the main cylinder but it was just little bit less( even I thought If I did not add the brake fluid it was fine).
What about the parking brake cable has to be loosen up under the venter console for the drums to come off. Mine aren't coming off. Looked it up on Mitchell demand.
oh and as for the brakes grinding. it was the lower end of the shoes where the small spring at the very bottom connect. the are suppose to be behind the groove on the plate but one side wasn't so it was grinding. I fixed it. so now on to the otherside. still a pain though
This is a great video ! The instructions are clear and the information on where to get the tools is particularly useful. By the way, could I know where to buy the horseshoe clip pliers?
Thank you for the video, i do have a problem tho.. one of the brake has the cylinder kind of stuck, when pressing on brake one of them only will move causing it to go out and leak...any suggestion ?
@@HowtoAutomotive yeah most of the time it always move from the same side, causing the cylinder to fall and leak..but it was working fine before taking it apart i guess
Driver side went fine, I cannot get the rotor back on passenger side. Are all 4 brake pads identical? Only difference between two is I replaced the cylinder and spacer on the passenger side. They were identical size to original. Why won’t it fit?!
This is a great video! thanks! I do have a question, I noticed my brake pedal feeling a bit soft over the last month or two... so I just did my front brakes... rotors and pads. My brake pedal feels the same.. Some people say that I may have to adjust the adjuster on the rear drums to fix this? Does this sound like the first thing I should try,?
Very useful if we all had ideal conditions. Can you repeat the whole thing, but this time, on your driveway with the work 2 feet off the ground and sun shining at 86 degrees. Plus, without the specialized tools you showed us. Thanks.
Many other videos show them popping the brake cylinder end caps off by mistake, which can introduce air into the system. You managed to keep them in place - that's the way to do it.
Windy City I would put them back together and pump the pedal if it feels soft then bleed it . If it feels firm I think you’ll be OK. But if you bleed it you’ll be 100% safe.
I wish I would have seen this video before another tutorial, the other guy was using plier grips to pull that spring which is a pain to remove,I noticed while doing this, I ended up pushing the cylinder all the way to one side, releasing brake oil fluid, and I think air got inside the lines as the brake pedal feels like a sponge. Going to take my car to a shop to see what happened, I hope I did not damage the cylinders.
How to Automotive No I did these on a yaris ‘13 one day after seeing the wheel cylinder was leaking. The top spring gave me a hell of a time. Also I missed cleaning the rust from one of the contact points at the bottom of the backing plate which caused squeaking after a few days. Maybe next weekend I will try these again on a hondu civic ‘10, and hopefully get my revenge on those springs. Most people, including myself would connect both sides of the shoes at the top with the top spring. Your way is pretty neat when connecting them at the bottom and already having connected the top spring. I think this way it facilitates things a lot more.
OK so I did one brake shoe by myself. I follow your instructions now I'm test driving and the brakes are barely Working. I have to push almost all the way Down for it to break. And the Car to stop
As.diary I don’t. To bleed the rear brakes you’ll need somebody to pump the pedal 3 or 4 times and then hold the pedal down while you open the bleeder screw on the back of the drum. At the same time they continue holding down and tell you we close the valve and then they can release the pedal and do that three or four times until all air has bled out. You also need to check the master cylinder fluid level to make sure that it has enough fluid to do this.
@@HowtoAutomotive sorry for all the questions and thank u for the quick reply...very appreciated..last questions..what is the fluid call that I need? Do i put the fluid in the same way it came out out? And should i do that before i bleed the system or after?..thank you
How to Automotive it did after I saw your video. I was having trouble removing that spring on top that connects both breaks and your tip helped. Also putting the same spring back together was easy the way you showed In the video 👍🏼
Hello Brain, First off THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO I would have never been able to replace the brakes on a2009 Honda civic without this video. I watched the whole Video twice and was able to remove and replace old and new brake shoes. After many problems I test drove the car and the pedal went to the floor and I hear loud grinding sounds coming from the rear brakes? So what is wrong ? since your video is at chest level and I am working in my garage I can't see the bottom of the drum brakes to well. So I put the drums back on and went for a drive, immediately I hear aloud grinding noise and the brake pedal went to the floor. So I drove back to the garage to see what the problem was. I took off the drums only to find grind mark on the front of them not where the pads touch so I didn't know why this was happening so I checked the bottom spring of the drum brake and I noticed its was outside of the mount pin on the bottom which is really hard to see when your in your garage and working on a lift like you had I couldn't notice that I had mounted the brake wrong and the spring was on the outside of the tab so I played with the brakes and the bottom spring fell off and I moved the brake assembly to the right and it fell into it's original spot and after adjusting the star wheel no more grinding and the brakes worked just find. Thanks for your help.
My drum does not want to fit back on, and I adjusted everything closed it all the way and it still does not fit! What can it be?? Should I buy new drums? Please I really need the help, thank you
If they fit on when taken off they should fit back on, be sure to clean it off, use mild sanding paper to clean inside to remove any grooves. But if it's been on since new change it. Peace of mind to have new stuff
@@HowtoAutomotive i got it i tensioned it alot and adjusted it as well and it feels a little too strong but its 11 pm and im tired but after a test drive it isnt too strong it feels close enough to before
2 hrs later stuck trying to get the second shoe on under tension, dunno why, cant get this method to work. EDIT: got it to work, just needed to stop trying to juggle the adjuster spon and install it later
Still working on this. At 8 minutes in, the video jumps to skip over the magic that makes the brake adjuster clip fall into place. I have been trying to make this happen for over an hour. You can see the before and the after but not how it was done.
Word of warning be careful not to pop off the cylinder when installing the brake shoes, mine came off and I believe I introduced air in the system as my pedal falls to the floor now, I need to bleed my system now
@@HowtoAutomotive errr.. I meant the horseshoe lock ring pliers! I ordered some off Amazon..wish me luck. Thanks for your efforts teaching people how to work on their cars!
Nice tutorial Brian 👍🏻What is the grease lubricant brand are you using? Can this apply for the front brake pads as well? Where can I get that clip tool at?
You skipped the most important part... Those drums many times dont come off easy even when pounding it with a hammer. Some have a slot in the back that you have to take a small screwdriver and turn the adjuster wheel or else no chance on getting drums off
In the front of the drum, there are two screw holes. Put a screw 10mm by 1.25 thread pitch in each hole and turn each one till drum brakes loose. Hopes this helps
I did my 1988 Civic drum break years ago, it is very refreshing to see how professional auto mechanic did it. Thanks for your video. Your explanation is quite clear and getting to the point. The video angles are quite good and clear. One of the best videos.
Bruce Huan thank You!
@@HowtoAutomotive , Thank you again. I got it done on both rear drum brake on replacing shoes, drum and wheel cylinder with new set of springs. First installation on the passenger side, I found that 1988 civic adjuster stud fork was too fat for the new shoes. A little bit of grinding to make it fit the bill. By the way, I was confused on the adjuster stud differences on its right or left turn in order to screw it in. I ended up came back to review your video which is on the passenger side wheel (by looking at the muffler is on its left side) and it is right turn (clockwise turn make it shorter). This saves me a tremendous trouble in the future.
* By the way, I like to find that tool you used to push and turn the lock spring. I wish I had one like that and like to get one for the next use.
You're a hero. I spent hours trying to get the top spring on and with your method I had the brakes back on and assembled in about 10 minutes. THANK YOU!!!!
Thank you a million times for making this video. I have a 2012 civic and it’s pretty much the same. I’ve done lots of drum brakes but this one seemed weird until I watched your video. Takes all the mystery out of the brake adjuster
Took me 5min to take everything out and 3 hours to put it back i have nightmares with these brakes!
He made it look easy when he putting back. But in reality its harder that it seems. Those springs are hard to stretch out. I just did mine yesterday , i did it differently but it works for me.
Hate drum brakes with a passion
Eyes wide shut for expert who do this constantly on a daily/weekly basis. They all are pretty much same from small cars, suv and sometimes trucks (GM/Chev) if your having problems with wheel hub check it any noise with too change it or just change everything. Remember to bleed the brakes, I note on the drum the date it has been changed like for example (04/27/20)
Bleeding the brakes, especially for drums, is a critical step. The ends of the wheel cylinders that contact the shoes can quite literally be pulled out of the cylinder itself with minimal force or by pushing one end in too far. Beyond that, as with any brake repair job or brake part replacement, removing any compressible gasses or other foreign materials, whether solid or liquid, from the brake lines is of the utmost importance to your safety, the safety of your passengers, and the safety of other people on the roads around you.
As for these being a pain to install, I agree that pads and rotors are so much easier and more straight forward, but I almost enjoyed doing these on my Honda. It gave me a chance to get everything cleaned up for the new hub bearing assemblies, as well as took a drill with steel brushes and got the backing plates returned to much better condition with the removal of rust.
All in all I enjoyed getting it all back together as a much more complex mechanical system and having it work as wee as or better than the old ones!
I just wanted to see how he got that mainspring back in.
I am guessing a Honda Fit is the same thing, I will find out tomorrow. Last time i replaced drum breaks
was back in the 90's. Just need a refresher course. A man that knows what he is doing, you made that
look easy.
William Wynn yes it should be the same. Good luck with the brakes. Thank you for watching!
looks identical to our honda fit i just did a few days ago, 100%
It’s the same as the Honda Fit !
I just did my 2008 Civic, I saw every Civic drum brake video on yt accept yours!!! Wish I had!!!! Yours is the absolute best!!!!!!!!!!! Got mine done but damn do my fingers and hands hurt!!!!
OMG!!!!!! This is by far the best vid for Honda drum breaks I have seen! I have a 1999 and it's the same thing as this. You are such a lifesaver!!!!!!
Thanks buddy! Did this 5 years ago and almost lost an eye trying to pull that main spring over. This was definitely a lot easier. Thanks again!
Thanks for this! QUICK TIP: Use vice grips to take the springs off, then remove the clips holding on the shoe, then take them off... then do it in reverse! Way easier than trying to juggle the second shoe on
Let me first say this video will definitely give you what you need to replace your drum brakes... but let me tell you it’s not as easy as it looks.. this dude has probably replaced drum brakes 10,000 times!! Awesome job!
Travis Presnell Travis I don’t know if I’ve done 10,000 but I’ve done a lot. Glad the video helped you out thank you for watching!
Brian, this is nothing short of a fantastic video. A good friend of mine is a Honda "master" technician as they are called at the dealership, and the process he uses, which I'm sure is a specific Honda method with a personal touch, is essentially exactly your process here.
The step many struggle with, as I have seen personally helping people with their cars and on videos here, is the installation of the top most spring. I call it the "rotation method" and it takes all the danger of damaging the wheel cylinder out if the equation if your advice is heeded properly. Too many attempt to fight the spring on its home turf; meaning, they try to pull the spring along the linear axis where the spring is the strongest. Rotation introduces the lever, our simple machine best friend, to do our bidding. Once the shoe is seated in the cylinder notch and is rotated around that fulcrum, the forces pushing on the cylinder from each side begin to balance out quickly allowing for the focus to move to proper positioning of the front shoe. From there it takes no more than slight pressure from a single finger to hold the shoe in its desired place while installing the peripheral springs and retainer.
I have been fixing up my '06 coupe 5mt to have something I can not worry about putting additional miles on and still know it's solid. I've owned it since December 2005 and all but 12 of the ~270k miles were driven by me. I had watched this some time ago while fixing up a friend's 2007 coupe nearly a year ago, and the process stuck with me to the point that I watched this after to make sure I hadn't screwed anything up. Nailed it!
yourfinaldecree glad you like the video. Sounds like you take good care of your car and it should be around for a long time. Thank you for watching!
Pushing in the hold-down springs without a special tool can be overcome by using a wide-blade screw driver. Place the screw driver blade on one side of the hold-down spring in the groove and press in and turn slightly, whilst holding the dowel in place from behind. It only takes a slight turn for the dowel to catch, but once it is hooked, you can then move it completely into the grove with needle nose pliers. I spent three hours one night trying everything to get something to work, and stumbled across this trick. Good luck.
A lot of information and straight to the point. The best part about this video was simply just that. Straight to the point. This video was very well made and I am thankful for it
Thank you and thank you for watching!
This video works for a 2012 honda civic lx.
I also wanted to add that I used two M12 -1.25 mm x 35 mm metric class 8.8 bolts from home depot to remove the drums.
I also used clear tubing from home depot to bleed the brakes, but I can't find the size. It's probably the second thinnest tubing they sell.
Hope this helps.
…
Thank you so much for doing this video!! The part I like best is installing the opposite shoe. I would usually try to spread the large spring up top after the two shoes are installed and I would stretch it out and end up having one of the piston boots come off in the process of stretching the spring and make a mess. It took me half the time to do my rear brakes. This is the best video!!
Amazing tutorial! You saved my dad and I so much time of struggling with that break spring 😅 thank you so much!
Bravo, sir! Thank you so much for just showing the content without fluff!
No annoying background music.
Bless you!
Thanks so much for this vid!! I followed it to a tee and it went super well. Saved my daughter a few hundred bucks for sure!!
This is by far the best video I found for changing rear brake shoes on a Honda!!!
best video on drum brakes ive seen so far
I was struggling so hard taking the top spring off in my 2010 Honda Insight, which has the same exact drum brake setup in this video. When I tried your method of removing old shoes and assembly of new shoes, I was finally able to get this job done sooner.
Most videos start with removing that longer top spring which is on there super tight, but that never worked for me. I don't have vice grips and don't wanna use side cutters, so there had to be a better way, which is to remove the shorter bottom spring. Doing that is way easier and quicker.
This guy saved me a Headache.. thnxx bro. Simple as 123
This is the most comprehensive video on you tube! Thank you sir!
Thank you for watching!
Thank you. I spent countless hours trying to install the top spring on each side of my vehicle. Each time I tried I failed. I sat back and scratched my head many many times. Thank you.🤣
Glad you got it. I know it’s a pain. Thank you for watching!
Just one trick to add is when get the shoes close to postion with the drum, go in and press the brake pedal with both drums on and see if it frees up the drum. This process centers the brake pads. once i thought I had adjusted them tight enough and pressed the pedal and they were pretty loose and then adjusted them a bit more and they were perfect
nick elias like the tip👍🏻 thank you and thank you for watching!
I watched this video 3 times before I started the job on my 2008 Civic. I have done disk brakes many times an never had any issues, but this job one one problem after another.
It is not as simple as the video led me to believe.
First, was unable stretch the return spring enough to release the shoes. I found no place to get enough leverage. I ended up using a bolt cutter to cut the spring.
Second, I did not have the special pliers with the wedge that permits spreading the horseshoe clamp. I tried buy could not remove the parking brake pin from the rear brake shoe. The rear brake had very little wear, so I decided to keep it.
Third. In replacing the rear brake shoe, I had trouble replacing the retaining clip. Ever thing kept slipping out of place. You really need 3 hands to do this task!
Fourth: Even though the replacement spring was an exact duplicate of the original. I could not get it to hook up to the rear brake shoe. The parking brake assemble arm blocked access to the triangular slot . This, of course, is a show stopper, so I'm still trying to find a way to make it work.
Jim Walsh all you need for this is pliers and a couple of flat screwdrivers. No special tools needed those just make the job easier
Haha, it would have been hilarious to hang out with you in your garage and watch or video you
Super helpful dude, you def have a sequence going on here that makes it a bit easier and quicker than trying to thread every spring through one at a time. This video is also relevant to anyone with a Honda Fit. Exact same drum brake setup
Hey i changed brake shoes on the left side and the cylinder pistons came out put back in and finished that one side, but i didn't change passenger side yet. If the passenger side pistons stay in, do i have to bleed all 4 brake cylinders are just the side that came out?
I would not have been able to do this without your video. Thanks
Honda Engineer for Drums is something so simple yet over complicated. Whoever invented these are the devil, why didn't they just include Rear Rotors to the LX model? It's just insane to save a couple of pennies.
Your video was best on TH-cam thanks
Well done as always!!. WHY can’t people learn the killers of doing most wrong! Like pure ignorance, especially with profanity which will offend those Who choose to use English, but will never offend those who speak like sailors. It’s a win/win. And conceivably ruining the video. BIG things like, loud annoying music, poor sound or bubbling. Attempting to pad their lack of knowledge. As a NASE cert.mechanic for 40 years, “just a car nut,” that rarely does a Honda and even with tiny hands, Uuuuuh, that can’t fit and hasn’t done this one or drums, for 10 years, “I never did it for a living, I got wanted my tech degree before I went to college”, it was nice to be refreshed and feel confident while taking a much needed bad back break. So much to be learned by You tubers trying to build a channel for the masses. Another hero to add to my list. It’s called doing it right! Thanks again, A simple Thorough and refreshing Video, Lee,FL
Thank you Lee! I’m glad you like the content and you’re back to working on your car. Thank you for watching!
Great video! You make it look so easy… very skilled mechanic!
Great video man! lol I will leave this up to my mechanic to do the labor. The upside is that now I know how the process works, and I know all the components that ideally should be replaced. I’m here after getting cursed out by a customer’s mom for selling a car in which the drum’s failed after a few month of ownership. The downside to the drum brake system is that when they fail, they will fail hard. The brakes worked just fine on the car before selling the car. Moving forward, my buy here pay here dealership will be replacing the drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and hardware on all used cars we sell. Same thing applies for brake pads and rotors. We also are getting our customer’s car fixed. Thank goodness we have the wiggle room to replace stuff like this. I can only imagine the issues that Independent cash car dealers run into. They can’t mark up their prices much like buy here pay here dealer’s can, therefore it’s not much wiggle room for them to fix the cars. Then if cash dealers do try to fix everything properly, they can’t sell the car because cash buyers usually will not want to pay the increased cost of the car associated with all the repairs. At the end of the day, dealer financing allows dealers the wiggle room to properly fix used cars, especially vehicles more than 6 years old.
Well I hope you can get the car fixed up. Glad the video helped you make the right decision to pay someone. Thank you for watching!
@@HowtoAutomotive yep we took care of our customer’s car Friday.
I really like the order you do the shoes in. It avoids trying to pull the big spring with pliers, which is always a challenge. I have a quesiton though. When I was doing my rear shoes on my civic, I pulled the spring too hard without holding the shoes and the brake cylinder popped out and a little bit of brake fluid leaked out. I put it back together, but my question is:
Do I now need to replace the wheel cylinder because some brake fluid leaked out when the wheel cylinder got pushed too much to one side? Did I damage the wheel cylinder?
Michael Most likely you will not need to replace the cylinder after putting it back together. You will need to bleed the brakes when you’re done. To be on the safe side I would drive it for a few miles pull the drum back apart and just make sure that it’s not leaking.
@@HowtoAutomotive Thanks for the response. I have been watching my brake level in my resevoir and it hasn't moved or gotten low. Btw, you should show everyone this method you use because it is so much easier than the way I was shown to do it. All the other people tell me to remove the big spring first, but that spring is quite hard to remove. Your way is so much better. I really love your method regarding brake drums. Awesome. I just subscribed to your channel.
Michael I struggled for years with drum brakes and now I have a pretty good system. Thank you so much for watching and subscribing!
Is there an adjustment window on the backside? Drums usually have a window do you can adjust w/o taking off the drum, maybe honda is different?
This guy is a true mechanic. I was stressed just thinking about doing this job. Just follow the video and you'll be fine. Only thing I did different was to remove the parking brake cable so that it was easier taking off the horseshoe clip(hardest part about the job). Also push in the brake piston by hand to give yourself more room to leverage the last brake shoes in place.
Glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching!
Can you tell me the name of the pliers you used to remove the horse shoe clip from parking break please!
I just replace the shoes and drums in my 2006 honda civic lx sedan I follow all your instructions and man I did really good I only didn't have the special tools to take the clips of and I had a hard time with horse shoe clip but other than that I have new shoes and drums in honda, thank you 😉😎
tiger-chapincito13 those clips are a pain. Glad the video helped. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for sharing the information. I watched the video and I changed my rear brakes. But after changing by rear brake pads, my pedal and my parking brake both are not working. My pedal brake hardly stop my car even at very slow speed 15-20km/hr and my pedal also goes all the down. While changing brake pads, I poped out one side if my cylinder ans some oil leaks from that cylinder, I cleaned the part and put it back. But after I put on everything and I did my test drive. I figured out none of my brakes are working. Please tell me what to do now? My pedal brake working only like 10% and even the pedal goes all the way down. I also added brake fluid in the main cylinder but it was just little bit less( even I thought If I did not add the brake fluid it was fine).
What about the parking brake cable has to be loosen up under the venter console for the drums to come off. Mine aren't coming off. Looked it up on Mitchell demand.
What is the tool called that you used to remove and install the horseshoe clip?
Thanks for making this video. It was a huge help as I did my rear brakes today.
hello! Please what is the size and thread type of the screw to remove the rear brake drum? thanks
oh and as for the brakes grinding. it was the lower end of the shoes where the small spring at the very bottom connect. the are suppose to be behind the groove on the plate but one side wasn't so it was grinding. I fixed it. so now on to the otherside. still a pain though
Omar Chisolm sounds like your doing well with 👍🏻
Do you have a link to where you buy the pliers you used to remove the horse shoe clip?
After few months on the new brakes I need to adjust the brakes again or the adjustment is automatic?
I'm not paying $400 to the dealership for this. Thanks you so much, this was very thorough !!!
Glad to help you save. Thank you for watching!
never go to the dealership either bro, always 1.5-2x more expensive. This job averages around $60-90 for labor, $20-40 for parts at a private place
Thank you for this video. You saved my life.
Is the hand brake supposed to be engaged or released?
I did my breaks on a 04 civic looks almost identical to this it took me 5 hours to complete the job! Wish I would of found this video before.
i could use any honda civic 8th gen durms and shoes together? Not just one single brand for both?
What a great and clear video thanks a lot HAPPY Memorial Day...will be doing my 2001 Honda LX breaks
This is a great video !
The instructions are clear and the information on where to get the tools is particularly useful.
By the way, could I know where to buy the horseshoe clip pliers?
Thank you for the video, i do have a problem tho.. one of the brake has the cylinder kind of stuck, when pressing on brake one of them only will move causing it to go out and leak...any suggestion ?
Alessandro Terracciano just replace the wheel cylinder with a new one. Cylinder should move side to side and not get stuck.
@@HowtoAutomotive yeah most of the time it always move from the same side, causing the cylinder to fall and leak..but it was working fine before taking it apart i guess
did you have to adjust them at the end because you did assembled and lubed up the adjuster? what if I don't disconnect it do it still have to adjust?
Omar Chisolm I would check to see if they need adjusting. If they are loose you will have a low brake pedal and the park brake will not hold.
Great video! It gives me 90% of the details I need. How similar are 2014 Civic rear drum brakes to the ones in this video?
ken444444 I believe they’re exactly the same.
Such a great tutorial. THANK YOU
Thank you for watching!
Driver side went fine, I cannot get the rotor back on passenger side. Are all 4 brake pads identical? Only difference between two is I replaced the cylinder and spacer on the passenger side. They were identical size to original. Why won’t it fit?!
Thanks for the video, i would have been in big trouble if you hadn't showed me how to replace these brakes.
My God, thank you so much for this video, you surely kept it real. That's what i'm talking about!!!
This is a great video! thanks! I do have a question, I noticed my brake pedal feeling a bit soft over the last month or two... so I just did my front brakes... rotors and pads. My brake pedal feels the same.. Some people say that I may have to adjust the adjuster on the rear drums to fix this? Does this sound like the first thing I should try,?
Late response, but did you try flushing your brakes?
Bleeding them will get the air out
Could you please provide the brand and part number of the horseshoe clip pliers. Thanks. Great video.
Imperial
Brake Service Steel C Ring Pliers.. Matco have this as well. Snap on also have one
Very useful if we all had ideal conditions. Can you repeat the whole thing, but this time, on your driveway with the work 2 feet off the ground and sun shining at 86 degrees. Plus, without the specialized tools you showed us. Thanks.
Louis Emery homeowners association wouldn’t allow me.
Many other videos show them popping the brake cylinder end caps off by mistake, which can introduce air into the system. You managed to keep them in place - that's the way to do it.
Timetryp I’ve had my share of them popping out. And learned some tricks or two.
@@HowtoAutomotive If they do pop out and you lose some fluid, do you have to bleed that brake, or bleed all brakes?
Windy City I would put them back together and pump the pedal if it feels soft then bleed it . If it feels firm I think you’ll be OK. But if you bleed it you’ll be 100% safe.
Sadly mine popped off and I have no brakes as of right now I need to bleed the brakes
This sure will help me out. Thanks for the video.
Rudy B thank you for watching!
thanks for the clear instructions
I wish I would have seen this video before another tutorial, the other guy was using plier grips to pull that spring which is a pain to remove,I noticed while doing this, I ended up pushing the cylinder all the way to one side, releasing brake oil fluid, and I think air got inside the lines as the brake pedal feels like a sponge. Going to take my car to a shop to see what happened, I hope I did not damage the cylinders.
Man you made it look so easy.... good stuff 👍🏼
camram thank you. Are you doing your brakes this weekend?
How to Automotive No I did these on a yaris ‘13 one day after seeing the wheel cylinder was leaking. The top spring gave me a hell of a time. Also I missed cleaning the rust from one of the contact points at the bottom of the backing plate which caused squeaking after a few days. Maybe next weekend I will try these again on a hondu civic ‘10, and hopefully get my revenge on those springs. Most people, including myself would connect both sides of the shoes at the top with the top spring. Your way is pretty neat when connecting them at the bottom and already having connected the top spring. I think this way it facilitates things a lot more.
Preguntas relacionadas
Can I replace drums without replacing shoes? Because they are un good shape
Thank you so much. I wish I watched this video before busting my wheel cylinder.
Same the cylinders pop out 🤷♂️
OK so I did one brake shoe by myself. I follow your instructions now I'm test driving and the brakes are barely Working. I have to push almost all the way Down for it to break. And the Car to stop
As.diary Sounds like you got air in the system you need to bleed or the brakes are not adjusted right
@@HowtoAutomotive I got air in the system.. do u have a video on how to bleed the lines?
As.diary I don’t. To bleed the rear brakes you’ll need somebody to pump the pedal 3 or 4 times and then hold the pedal down while you open the bleeder screw on the back of the drum. At the same time they continue holding down and tell you we close the valve and then they can release the pedal and do that three or four times until all air has bled out. You also need to check the master cylinder fluid level to make sure that it has enough fluid to do this.
@@HowtoAutomotive sorry for all the questions and thank u for the quick reply...very appreciated..last questions..what is the fluid call that I need? Do i put the fluid in the same way it came out out? And should i do that before i bleed the system or after?..thank you
As.diary you’ll need Dot 3 Brake Fluid. You’ll feel it through the master cylinder under the hood
I went to 2 auto stores and I could not find these exact tools. I have a 2012 Honda I'm wondering if that's why or if I still need these exact tools..
You make me see that I can do this! The shop wants $600 and the parts are only about $100 if I diy
You’re the best for this video! So helpful. Thank you!
KingKristo _ thank you. Did everything go smooth?
How to Automotive it did after I saw your video. I was having trouble removing that spring on top that connects both breaks and your tip helped. Also putting the same spring back together was easy the way you showed In the video 👍🏼
KingKristo _ awesome glad the video helped out. Thank you for watching!!
Thanks man! You save my life 😇
Glad to help. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for making my day
Benny Blacksheep Thank you for watching the video!
Very informative video thanks 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for watching!
Hello Brain, First off THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO I would have never been able to replace the brakes on a2009 Honda civic without this video. I watched the whole Video twice and was able to remove and replace old and new brake shoes. After many problems I test drove the car and the pedal went to the floor and I hear loud grinding sounds coming from the rear brakes? So what is wrong ? since your video is at chest level and I am working in my garage I can't see the bottom of the drum brakes to well. So I put the drums back on and went for a drive, immediately I hear aloud grinding noise and the brake pedal went to the floor. So I drove back to the garage to see what the problem was. I took off the drums only to find grind mark on the front of them not where the pads touch so I didn't know why this was happening so I checked the bottom spring of the drum brake and I noticed its was outside of the mount pin on the bottom which is really hard to see when your in your garage and working on a lift like you had I couldn't notice that I had mounted the brake wrong and the spring was on the outside of the tab so I played with the brakes and the bottom spring fell off and I moved the brake assembly to the right and it fell into it's original spot and after adjusting the star wheel no more grinding and the brakes worked just find. Thanks for your help.
In the end I’m going it all worked out. That was cool how you worked through the problem. Thank you for watching!
Now that's a video!! Thank you
I wish I got an EX coupe instead of an LX... discs are so much easier to work on... I know drums last longer but they’re a pita to fix...
So true. You could do all 4 wheels if you had discs on them all in the time it takes to do just the rear drums.
But how do you take the drum cover off? Should probably start with that chief
My drum does not want to fit back on, and I adjusted everything closed it all the way and it still does not fit! What can it be?? Should I buy new drums? Please I really need the help, thank you
If they fit on when taken off they should fit back on, be sure to clean it off, use mild sanding paper to clean inside to remove any grooves. But if it's been on since new change it. Peace of mind to have new stuff
What does it mean if my E brake and brake pedal feel loose
Does it mean i didnt tension it
Or does it mean i didnt bleed them
That would be The tension. Adjust the brake shoes after that if it’s still loose adjust the Cable
@@HowtoAutomotive i got it i tensioned it alot and adjusted it as well and it feels a little too strong but its 11 pm and im tired but after a test drive it isnt too strong it feels close enough to before
2:20 I need this tool but no link nor do I know the name
Thank you for the refresher!
Where can i find a pair of those horseshoe clip pliers?
2 hrs later stuck trying to get the second shoe on under tension, dunno why, cant get this method to work.
EDIT: got it to work, just needed to stop trying to juggle the adjuster spon and install it later
stopped trying to juggle the adjuster spoon piece and this method now worked fine
Badass Brian thank you.
What are those special tool called?
I believe the name of them or brake C clip pliers.
@@HowtoAutomotive no
Still working on this. At 8 minutes in, the video jumps to skip over the magic that makes the brake adjuster clip fall into place. I have been trying to make this happen for over an hour. You can see the before and the after but not how it was done.
Word of warning be careful not to pop off the cylinder when installing the brake shoes, mine came off and I believe I introduced air in the system as my pedal falls to the floor now, I need to bleed my system now
When orientation is important point your camera at the parts your orienting, you keep doing stuff halfway out of frame
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SHARINGTHIS !👏👏👏👏
Automatic liked and subscribed ✅✅
L G thank you! Glad you like the video!
Do you need a slip ring pliers for this?
Windy City i’m not sure what you mean by slip ring pliers. Just follow the video and you’ll be OK.I show every tool that I use.
@@HowtoAutomotive errr.. I meant the horseshoe lock ring pliers! I ordered some off Amazon..wish me luck. Thanks for your efforts teaching people how to work on their cars!
Nice tutorial Brian 👍🏻What is the grease lubricant brand are you using? Can this apply for the front brake pads as well? Where can I get that clip tool at?
Geoki Yuen it’s Slye glide. There is a link in the description
You skipped the most important part... Those drums many times dont come off easy even when pounding it with a hammer. Some have a slot in the back that you have to take a small screwdriver and turn the adjuster wheel or else no chance on getting drums off
In the front of the drum, there are two screw holes. Put a screw 10mm by 1.25 thread pitch in each hole and turn each one till drum brakes loose. Hopes this helps
Excellent video.
You make it look very easy, my respects to you boss😎