I had the exact same prøblem with a Black&Decker 20V battery. It loox exactly like your blown PB battery from the inside, and I did exactly the same: solder blob that wanky fuse. The battery is working happily ever since. BTW it's a stupid thing. This battery is supposed to be able to deliver 40A current (2x20A) continuously. That fuse burns at around 10A which sux. The tools (and battery) are capable of much more with that 40A.
Dude, when you opened the new battery, saw that it was different and said "That sucks"! Exactly what and how I would have said it. That was awesome. Thank you for the video. I'll definitely check more of yours out.
I discovered the same thing with a battery that only lasted 2 months and trying to get in touch with Porter Cable is worthless. I finally decide to open it up and yep that’s what I found. I had a really tough time trying to solder it but I finally found your video and said if you can do it so can I. It finally works again. Incidentally, the hammer drill I got free with this battery also quit. I don’t know if Porter Cable has much future now because they refuse to go brushless and that’s what all the rest have done.
I would be terrified bridging those two connectors together, they are fusible links that serve a safety purpose. I highly do not recommend anyone to do this. This is the same as using aluminum foil to replace common fuses in your car fuse box, it is dangerous. I have seen personally what just a 3.7 volt lithium iPhone batteries can do when they become defective and catch on fire and its terrifying. It burns like a roman candle, you can't put it out and I can only imagine what a 20 volt battery like this would do.
Will change something in production line halfway through if something's cheaper or to repair a defect in the first round that went out. Be aware that when you try that in the future
Not a big examining it and see you took it apart cleaning up real good. Before you take it back even check your screw marks to make sure you didn't make a Nick in the painted screw. Sometimes you'll go up there and it won't be a regular lady you'll get the manager and they're a little more strict on examining products on return. Clean it up real well if you plan on returning it
I have that battery and yes you are correct there is a small piece of metal soldered flush between the two sections if you didn't know what you were looking for it almost appears solid.
The idea is that if the metal connection over heats then the metal melts away in an instant to prevent a fire or hazardous situation. The link needs to be a material that will melt at a lower temperature than any other object in the battery but will still carry the correct current. Bypassing this could result in bad things happening. With some engineering calculations I am sure a suitable replacement could be fabricated. Solder will stick but a lot of heat has to be applied quickly to surfaces of that size.
I was waiting for that one they can change a product line halfway through production. ManTech jumps so fast now something about 3 months ago might not be the same product 3 months later.
You just created a fire hazard. Unless the metal you used is the same size and material of the original. Now, if the battery overheats when charging, the material you used may not burn away as intended. Good way to fool insurance company if you wanted to burn down a turd of a house though. Wink ')
Very helpful ironic just did the exact same thing I almost thought about returning the old one since I bought it there brand new months ago it never worked and I forgot to return it
If you download the PDF from the manufacturer and got your butt off TH-cam they don't have it all on youtube. The manufactures PDF would have had it broke down for you in the schematic and you would known. Take the part number the manufacturer of the battery look up the PDF which not just the manual the schematics it would have shown you that battery apart and you would have known if that should have been soldered or not. Every product out there has a PDF that shows the part separated number so each piece you know what it is just got to take your time and research to do it
I had the exact same prøblem with a Black&Decker 20V battery. It loox exactly like your blown PB battery from the inside, and I did exactly the same: solder blob that wanky fuse. The battery is working happily ever since.
BTW it's a stupid thing. This battery is supposed to be able to deliver 40A current (2x20A) continuously. That fuse burns at around 10A which sux. The tools (and battery) are capable of much more with that 40A.
Dude, when you opened the new battery, saw that it was different and said "That sucks"! Exactly what and how I would have said it. That was awesome. Thank you for the video. I'll definitely check more of yours out.
I discovered the same thing with a battery that only lasted 2 months and trying to get in touch with Porter Cable is worthless. I finally decide to open it up and yep that’s what I found. I had a really tough time trying to solder it but I finally found your video and said if you can do it so can I. It finally works again. Incidentally, the hammer drill I got free with this battery also quit. I don’t know if Porter Cable has much future now because they refuse to go brushless and that’s what all the rest have done.
I would be terrified bridging those two connectors together, they are fusible links that serve a safety purpose.
I highly do not recommend anyone to do this. This is the same as using aluminum foil to replace common fuses in your car fuse box, it is dangerous.
I have seen personally what just a 3.7 volt lithium iPhone batteries can do when they become defective and catch on fire and its terrifying. It burns like a roman candle, you can't put it out and I can only imagine what a 20 volt battery like this would do.
Dude…you just saved so many lives.😁
Did you battery show any charge or voltage before hand
Sorry of your experience but that moment 'that sucks' was hilarious, best laugh I've had in days.
Will change something in production line halfway through if something's cheaper or to repair a defect in the first round that went out. Be aware that when you try that in the future
Not a big examining it and see you took it apart cleaning up real good. Before you take it back even check your screw marks to make sure you didn't make a Nick in the painted screw. Sometimes you'll go up there and it won't be a regular lady you'll get the manager and they're a little more strict on examining products on return. Clean it up real well if you plan on returning it
I have that battery and yes you are correct there is a small piece of metal soldered flush between the two sections if you didn't know what you were looking for it almost appears solid.
Do you have to use copper or can you use regular solder?
A solder bridge will most likely work just fine.
The idea is that if the metal connection over heats then the metal melts away in an instant to prevent a fire or hazardous situation. The link needs to be a material that will melt at a lower temperature than any other object in the battery but will still carry the correct current. Bypassing this could result in bad things happening. With some engineering calculations I am sure a suitable replacement could be fabricated. Solder will stick but a lot of heat has to be applied quickly to surfaces of that size.
I was waiting for that one they can change a product line halfway through production. ManTech jumps so fast now something about 3 months ago might not be the same product 3 months later.
OUT FUK'N STANDING JOB! YOU HAVE A NEW SUB! CARRY ON.
You just created a fire hazard. Unless the metal you used is the same size and material of the original. Now, if the battery overheats when charging, the material you used may not burn away as intended. Good way to fool insurance company if you wanted to burn down a turd of a house though. Wink ')
It's just like the home depot version of Dewalt is not the same from Dewalt direct
Thank you so much for the video mine done the same thing and now it's fixed
Very helpful ironic just did the exact same thing I almost thought about returning the old one since I bought it there brand new months ago it never worked and I forgot to return it
I just got a charger and battery from tractor supply on sale for 99 it was 119.99
Solder welder and solder is chump change
If you download the PDF from the manufacturer and got your butt off TH-cam they don't have it all on youtube. The manufactures PDF would have had it broke down for you in the schematic and you would known. Take the part number the manufacturer of the battery look up the PDF which not just the manual the schematics it would have shown you that battery apart and you would have known if that should have been soldered or not. Every product out there has a PDF that shows the part separated number so each piece you know what it is just got to take your time and research to do it
Could you post the link for the battery pdf?
Thanks guy.
I was expecting it
Thanks bud
Thanks🎉❤