Count me among the half dozen people still watching by the end! As a design engineer all my life I can't want to build an LPB and then do some variations using your techniques. Well done.
Hi Brian. I have always enjoyed your videos on the process of designing and building your boats and this was no exception. I particularly liked the discussion on achieving more secondary stability. Having built an F1, I very much appreciate the time and effort you put into your designs and video building classes. Thank you for all your work and take care.
Really interested in the catamaran twin hull idea, with it staying small enough to car top. These can be lashed or bolted on so to travel a distance to get to the destination and then separated so two people can have their own fishing craft while working the same area around the campsite.
Late to the party. Brian, since you already do steam bending for the ribs, have you considered doing shallow steam bends for the deck beams? That will prove stronger than the laminated deck beams and will allow you to play with the shape more dramatically. Since the radius is so large, you may even be able to get a piece of cedar to steam bend to that radius relatively easily. If you wanted a more complex shape, say a flat beam top with a tight radius down to the gunnels, you could use a light but strong wood like cherry. Cherry has the additional advantage of being at least as rot-resistant as cedar. (It may be possible to still do this with cedar or pine, but it would have to be a good piece.) Also, I am in love with your work. I can't wait to buy the F1 plans and course and build myself a pair of kayaks for my fiance and me. Thank you so much for putting in all the effort you do to these.
Great ideas, I would have liked to see a drawing at the start to see where you want to end the design. I was thinking on the deck stringers and the areas for your cam cleat why can't you add a longer piece from where the stringer attaches to the gunwahl and taper it down to 0. This way there is backing for your cleat w/o air under the skin at this location. Yes it will add a few ounces on port and starboard but be solid as heck. Bored we ain't stinking bored. Like to be in your shop brainstorming with you. Happy Holidays to you and Liz. Be well!
thick wall high pressure pvc pipe rings with a slot for C-clamps.. double or triple up like spring leaves to double clamping pressure.. Suuuper cheap super light & epoxy & glue proof
Whatever the "functionnal" reasons behind it, I like the improved esthetics of these lower/flat decks that streamline an bit the front of the F1 for non-long-term-campers (some of us are only day-boaters, or ultralight packers). Although not considering quaramaran or even sailing, this is the kind of esthetic "tuning" option that may just convince me to start kayak building 🙂. Curious to see when it goes from here and what the next prototype will look like (and compare to the whitewater SOF prototype).
Just putting in a plug for developing a beta release of your river touring kayak plans. There's nothing available like that except some cripplingly heavy and awkward roto molded monsters. Lots of rivers in UT/ID/WY await! Thanks.
I’ve got at least a year of other design work before I can even think about that again but at this point I’m not sure I’m gonna develop it any further because 98% of the correspondence that I’ve gotten about that boat is from people who really should either be in an F1 or a plastic Whitewater kayak from the 1990s. It’s just such an ultra specific use boat, Designed for high-volume rivers with mostly class one swift water but also a few must run class 2 to 3 Rapids, in a multi day loaded boat triping context meant to be used by someone who is a good enough pilot that they can avoid just crashing super hard directly into big rocks or taking bad or dangerous lines. That’s a lot of specifics and if you change any one of those variables it’s not the right boat. Also the Hydro dynamics are just teetering on this knife edge that I’m not sure if I can fix as soon as I brought the volume up to what I needed for stability it lost a little bit of the magic and it was that magic that gave it an edge over other crossover boats that are out there. So at that point you have to ask yourself is the 20 pounds that I’m saving worth of the possibility of breaking the boat if I pin against the rock? And also the fact that you can run those boats in very shallow water and this one you can’t. Lots to consider….
I suggest custom building the foot braces. I am not a fan of plastic equipment. I prefer aluminum. This way, you have a design that will work in all the Kayak designs.
The problem that we’ve had with aluminum is that it freezes the second it touches salt water or any kind of sand which is why you don’t see commercial foot braces is being made that way anymore.
Anything is possible but I’m not sure it’s really worth it. Those footbraces had some significant problems and being forced to rework my whole system is allowing for a lot of new options.
_Loved_ the ten-minute tangent on secondary stability trades. Your insights and the clear way you convey them are delightful. Thank you.
Indeed, agree.
I agree, I wish you didn’t stop it there. Thank you I enjoy your videos.
Great Work, Brian. It is very good for us potential customers to see how thoughtful and knowledgeable you are.
Count me among the half dozen people still watching by the end! As a design engineer all my life I can't want to build an LPB and then do some variations using your techniques. Well done.
I think I’m number seven to make it to the end!
Hi Brian. I have always enjoyed your videos on the process of designing and building your boats and this was no exception. I particularly liked the discussion on achieving more secondary stability. Having built an F1, I very much appreciate the time and effort you put into your designs and video building classes. Thank you for all your work and take care.
Bored who is bored, this was interesting on how you are redesigning your boat.
I think if we were bored we would be watching something else (Netflix???)
Really interested in the catamaran twin hull idea, with it staying small enough to car top. These can be lashed or bolted on so to travel a distance to get to the destination and then separated so two people can have their own fishing craft while working the same area around the campsite.
I needed to see and hear everything you presented.
Loved the stability tangent…I’m an engineer 😁. Great video I love watching you build these masterpieces.
I really liked the discussion about the stringer placement and stability / speed.
Замечательная работа
Late to the party. Brian, since you already do steam bending for the ribs, have you considered doing shallow steam bends for the deck beams? That will prove stronger than the laminated deck beams and will allow you to play with the shape more dramatically. Since the radius is so large, you may even be able to get a piece of cedar to steam bend to that radius relatively easily. If you wanted a more complex shape, say a flat beam top with a tight radius down to the gunnels, you could use a light but strong wood like cherry. Cherry has the additional advantage of being at least as rot-resistant as cedar. (It may be possible to still do this with cedar or pine, but it would have to be a good piece.)
Also, I am in love with your work. I can't wait to buy the F1 plans and course and build myself a pair of kayaks for my fiance and me. Thank you so much for putting in all the effort you do to these.
Unfortunately that doesn't work, the boat slowly flattens out over time. Top or bottom needs to be rigid.
@@capefalconkayak Good to know. Thanks for taking the time to respond.
Great ideas, I would have liked to see a drawing at the start to see where you want to end the design. I was thinking on the deck stringers and the areas for your cam cleat why can't you add a longer piece from where the stringer attaches to the gunwahl and taper it down to 0. This way there is backing for your cleat w/o air under the skin at this location. Yes it will add a few ounces on port and starboard but be solid as heck. Bored we ain't stinking bored. Like to be in your shop brainstorming with you. Happy Holidays to you and Liz. Be well!
thick wall high pressure pvc pipe rings with a slot for C-clamps.. double or triple up like spring leaves to double clamping pressure.. Suuuper cheap super light & epoxy & glue proof
Whatever the "functionnal" reasons behind it, I like the improved esthetics of these lower/flat decks that streamline an bit the front of the F1 for non-long-term-campers (some of us are only day-boaters, or ultralight packers). Although not considering quaramaran or even sailing, this is the kind of esthetic "tuning" option that may just convince me to start kayak building 🙂. Curious to see when it goes from here and what the next prototype will look like (and compare to the whitewater SOF prototype).
Coming, friend. Amazing. The best video, friend.. great.. greetings from your best friend, Indonesian Traditional Gold Seeker🇺🇸🇮🇩🚣♀️🙏👍👍
Здравствуйте! Подскажите что за дерево вы используете для каяка
Just putting in a plug for developing a beta release of your river touring kayak plans. There's nothing available like that except some cripplingly heavy and awkward roto molded monsters. Lots of rivers in UT/ID/WY await! Thanks.
I’ve got at least a year of other design work before I can even think about that again but at this point I’m not sure I’m gonna develop it any further because 98% of the correspondence that I’ve gotten about that boat is from people who really should either be in an F1 or a plastic Whitewater kayak from the 1990s. It’s just such an ultra specific use boat, Designed for high-volume rivers with mostly class one swift water but also a few must run class 2 to 3 Rapids, in a multi day loaded boat triping context meant to be used by someone who is a good enough pilot that they can avoid just crashing super hard directly into big rocks or taking bad or dangerous lines. That’s a lot of specifics and if you change any one of those variables it’s not the right boat. Also the Hydro dynamics are just teetering on this knife edge that I’m not sure if I can fix as soon as I brought the volume up to what I needed for stability it lost a little bit of the magic and it was that magic that gave it an edge over other crossover boats that are out there. So at that point you have to ask yourself is the 20 pounds that I’m saving worth of the possibility of breaking the boat if I pin against the rock? And also the fact that you can run those boats in very shallow water and this one you can’t. Lots to consider….
Hope you are well
hello sir, I want to ask the canoe that you built, what is the total length and how wide is the widest point? i.m from Indonesia
Are these designs adaptable to upgrade for larger paddlers? Thanks
Yes they are he has them laid out in the plans. Check out his free skin boat prep course he talks about that on there.
Yes they are he has them laid out in the plans. Check out his free skin boat prep course he talks about that on there.
I suggest custom building the foot braces. I am not a fan of plastic equipment. I prefer aluminum. This way, you have a design that will work in all the Kayak designs.
The problem that we’ve had with aluminum is that it freezes the second it touches salt water or any kind of sand which is why you don’t see commercial foot braces is being made that way anymore.
Putting other builders ideas in one project.
“Balsa” for stem and stern?
It would probably be a bit hard to seal and a bit weak.
Огонь. Всех благ.
Can you or one of your subscribers 3D print a copy of your previous style foot brace.
Anything is possible but I’m not sure it’s really worth it. Those footbraces had some significant problems and being forced to rework my whole system is allowing for a lot of new options.
Matias Wandel has a new video on wood plasticity.
Just so verbose.
Coming, friend. Amazing. The best video, friend.. great.. greetings from your best friend, Indonesian Traditional Gold Seeker🇺🇸🇮🇩🚣♀️🙏👍👍