Fixing Knots and Voids With Epoxy
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I demonstrate how fixing knots in wood with epoxy is an easy and quick process. Epoxy has a place in every wood shop and repairing a knot in wood can turn an otherwise useless board into a workable piece. It is important to add that with the particular epoxy that Im using, you need to pour it in layers no more than 1/4" deep when filling large voids. Wait for each layer to cure before pouring the next one on top. This will prevent overheating and cracking of the epoxy. Feel free to ask questions in the comments section and let me know what you think of the video.
Click here for full blog tutorial: www.penaltyboxwoodshop.com/pl...
Follow: / penaltyboxwoodshop
Instagram: / penaltyboxwoodshop
Website: www.penaltyboxwoodshop.com/
List of all my tools: www.penaltyboxwoodshop.com/tools
Tools and products used in this video:
Total Boat Epoxy Kit: amzn.to/2IafHBc
Dewalt 13” Planer: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Card Scraper: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Armor Tool Workbench and Accessories: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
DSLR Cannon T6i: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
External Lavalier Mic: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Blue Snowball iCE Mic: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Neewer Video Light LED: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Video Tags:
penalty box woodshop,fixing knots in wood,fixing cracks in wood,fixing cracks in wood furniture,woodworking for mere mortals router,filling knots with epoxy,filling voids with epoxy,fixing knots and voids with epoxy,epoxy resin wood projects,ecopoxy,how to repair a knot in wood,repairing wood floors,how to fix cracked wood furniture,using epoxy on wood,does epoxy work on wood,how to sand epoxy,how to remove epoxy from wood,wood filler how to - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA GF D1 | Summer | แข่งที่ไทย ต้องใส่ให้สุด](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Jkuf7nCS7jI/mqdefault.jpg)
If you watch all the way to the end of the video you will see how I use my leftover epoxy!
Totally saw that. Rock on!
Haha thanks man!
I used glue to lay down my hardwood (white oak) 3/4 thick and the glue which is like rubber once it dries. Has seeped into the not holes. Do you have any suggestions on getting that out before laying the epoxy or do think it’ll be ok to go on and finish filling the hole.
I don’t think it would hurt to just pour it but that’s without me actually seeing it. You could always use a small forstner bit to drill that stuff out
Not only was this a very straightforward and concise video, but I just gotta say that the background music was really gorgeous.
Yessss that relaxing TH-cam woodworking goodness
👊👊👊👍
What?! Epoxy tables are NOT just river tables?! Revolutionary 😂
In all seriousness, this was quite helpful with a project, thanks!
Hahaha thanks for the support brother!
such calming background music, I love it
Thanks!👊👊
This was super helpful!
Great video! Very useful information!
Thanks Jason! I appreciate that!
That epoxy is awsome! that wood is totaly restored! great video man!
Christofix Thank you! Yea, it’s amazing how well it can blend in!
I like knotted wood and if the knot is loose and done correctly, makes the project pop! Good Job!
Great way to save a nice board. The figure around that knot was great. I like the dye you used rather than a charcoal black. Thanks. I will give it a try.
Thank you! I use this method a lot, especially around knots. Let me know if you have any questions or need any help!
exactly what I was looking for, thanks
Glad it was helpful!!!
Even knowing it's epoxy, the knot fill blends in perfectly with the surrounding wood! Great work
Thanks! I was impressed that the pigment blended so well! Perfect for walnut!
That is exactly the information I need for this table top I am making for a client. I got a lot of old black walnut slabs that were cut in the early 1970's and sitting in the millhouse for all of that time. Bugs got in the wood and did what they do so there are some holes and tunnels that need filling. I was thinking that I would have to make a mold and do the whole thing in epoxy but that would be major overkill as I am not making a river table or anything of the sort. I just need to fill the holes and tunnels and knots. This is the perfect solution. Thanks for the video!
Great video! A surprise 2 in 1! Filling knot holes and impromptu coasters!!
Jacob Holland haha Thanks man! Wonder how many people will watch all the way through to get that last tip! 😂
Hello Jessy. WOW! Thanks so much for your video, very
useful and clear! I would be grateful if you could give me a suggestion.
I left a bottle of gel bleach in a bag on the floor. It is an old,
light colored, parquet; therefore, there is a very thin line of empty
space between the pieces of wooden strips. For some reasons, the gel
bleach leaked and, since the bag was not made of plastic (it was a cloth
bag), it passed through and got to the floor. It stayed there for a
very long time. The gel bleach had the time to literally dig a large
hole in the parquet. Which now looks like a crater, about 6 cm or more
in diameter, exposing the bottom layer of the floor, some sort of
strange material. I thought to fill it with epoxy glue (Gorilla epoxy
with the 2 syringes), wait that it dries, and then paint. I am glad to
find out that I can mix the paint with the glue itself. I need to fix
this quickly. It's not my home. I would be GRATEFUL if you could help me
with the following questions: 1) Since I cannot fill from the back
side, how do I address the need to leave a thin line between the wooden
strips? (yes, the crater extends beyond 1 strip, affecting the two
confining strips at its two sides too. 2) If I send you a picture of the
parquet (how/where can I send it? Thanks), would you be able to tell
me, approximately, what colors of what kind of paint should I buy? 3) I
cannot spend much money on huge tanks, so, is the Gorilla Epoxy glue
with 2 syringes (
www.homedepot.ca/product/gorilla-epoxy/1000778451 ) suitable for
this job and can I mix that type too with the paint? 4) If the epoxy
will end up overflowing, how can I gently smooth it without damaging the
surrounding healthy parquet? 5) Any other suggestion? Like, if it had
happened to you, what would you have done saving as much time and money
as possible? THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I will anxiously wait for your
response and my apologies for the long comment. Kind regards.
Thanks for the easy to follow video.
Thanks Sam! I appreciate your support as always!
Dude awesome video. I am going to try fixing my plastic trim with your techniques taught. Thanks.
Awesome! Thank you and good luck
great video! thanks!
TotalBoat Thanks! The 2:1 is great stuff!
TotalBoat hello
TotalBoat I have many cracks in my dinning table it’s like 8cm in length and 3 mm in width and it’s on both side , top and bottom as it’s continuous crack , how can I fix it at home ? Please help
May I know what is 2:1 stuff please?
Nice one bro, thanx:)
Thanks!
Nice!
👊👊👊
Fantastic! Exactly what I needed to know. I'm laying some hardwood (red oak, white oak and hickory mix) in my house and it is grade 3. At $0.89/ft I'll gladly fill in some gaps and holes! The cost savings more than pays for the epoxy. Thanks for the video!
Heck yeah!!!! My buddy did the same thing and it worked well
Once again Jess I get to thank you! I have a bunch of walnut from a log at my neighbor's walnut tree and much of it is unusable that is until I saw this video. So I just got my Total Boat Epoxy, and the Card Scraper and Diamond Hazelnut tint are arriving today. I will be using it today as you illustrated in the video to fix some defects in a Wlnut Serving tray. I always earn from you Jess!
That’s awesome, Rich! Thanks for the kind words and I can’t wait to see what you make!
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop Will do Jess. I am making a live edge serving tray similar to your board. How do I get a pict to you.
Rich Ragan you can email it to me penaltyboxwoodshop@gmail.com or tag me in any social media posts
Nice video. Any tips on filling a 2 1/4 inch deep hole? Should I fill it all at once or do it in 1/4 inch stages? If in stages do I let it dry completely before continuing? Thanks 😄
Thank you
You’re welcome
Thanks
You’re welcome
great job on video content & quality! Sub'd
Thanks man! I appreciate the support and I’m glad you enjoyed!
Thank you for your video. I purchased some cedar woods for facia. There are many knots holes on the cedar boars. One of the knots hole came loose, should I fix it or return to Lowe's?
Brand of epoxy do you recommend for hardwood flooring when filling knots?
This vid is very helpful, just wondering if it works the same on large open cracks due to natural wood and not stress cracks. How about knife scales with tung oil or Tru oil finish . I usually use Loc Tite epoxy to bond scales just wondering if same would fill cracks and knot holes
Thank you! It will work on larger cracks just as long as you don’t pour it any thinker than recommends by the brand Epoxy that your using. I’ll typically do layers for larger pours and it works great. Not sure about the knife scars
I really like how this turned out. I've never used epoxy and don't really care for the bright metallic looking river bed tables. Can you advise if the diamond epoxy gives a metallic/sparkly finish? It doesn't appear to in the video however I may opt for a more flat pigment if it looks sparkly in reality.
Thanks brother! It does have some slight metallic to it. Once I Polly over it it never seem to stand out that much when used in darker walnut though.
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop Kazan
This is an awesome video.
Do you have any recommendations for knotholes that are already in installed wood trim? Meaning the wood is already vertical and I can't remove it.
Can you use the same painters tape trick and sand in place?
Thanks. Yes, you can use painters tape but I’m not sure how you can keep the epoxy from running out with it being verticle
Can you suggest any low or no VOC epoxy fixes for boards, and perhaps any that are already mixed with a hardener? I want to repair a knot hole in my spiral staircase and need to do the epoxy fix inside the house. Bad allergies to chemical smells. Thanks!
That’s a great question and one that I’m not sure of. I bet if you contact total boat or any of the other brands they would be able to help you
I have had good results from combining unused ground coffee beans in the epoxy. It gives the fill an organic look when planed and sanded and accepts finishes well. Different varieties of coffee have definite different shades of brown which allows you to match wood well, and since we like a variety of coffees, it cost nothing to keep a small amount of each. Hope this helps!
Not something I’ve heard of but I’m sure it works great! Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for that, soon as i read it, it just feels right, that it would work.
I'm going to do some experiments, creating a coffee/ epoxy, grout.
Thx
👊👊
Looks great. I may try this on a walnut desktop I’m working on. What finish do you then recommend? Any finishes that don’t work well /won’t stick well to the epoxy?
Thank you! I have done poly and General Finishes Arm-R- Seal (my favorite) and they work great!
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop marine varnish should be fine?
More than enougg
That turned out fantastic! Can holes like that be filled using a 5 minute epoxy?
Thanks! It can
Any tips on resawing a board after filling voids with epoxy? I have a 3x5-in juniper board with some really cool knotholes and voids that I'd like to turn into 3/4" shelves. Is it better to do a deep pour then resaw, or resaw first and fill twice as many holes?
It should do fine resawing however it wouldn’t be hard to do it after either
quick question from some one just new at all this, as I said very new to this and am wondering what are the pros and cons to using cood colouring for pigment with epoxy?
I’ve never used food coloring to be honest.... that’s a good question that I don’t know the answer to. Sorry
I love tints dyes etc.....but no need to use tint "unless" the hole on the other side will actually see light(rare) in the final piece. Plain clear epoxy(or slightly amber will mimic the color of the hole below and wood surrounding almost perfectly; it will even look more like wood and it won't darken the wood around it like tints will. Give clear a try!
Will do! Thanks!
I look great, but wonder this epoxy can be applied for pine wood - soft one? and after planning this wood foil can go for molding without any problem? the final product is wood skirting. Please advise
Yes you can apply this to soft woods like pine as well. Shouldn’t have any problems planning that either
What was brand of tint you used? Thanks
Hey was it the matte hazelnut? And which is darker hazelnut or there mahogany? Thanks
How do you like your Dewalt planer? I have been using a Porter Cable bench top planer for a while now and it works well overall. However, the snipe is pretty bad at times. I was wondering how bad the snipe is on the Dewalt?
+zillie36 I do not experience any or very little snipe with this planer. I have been very happy with it since I got it last year.
Great video - very helpful. A question on the Total Boat epoxy. Is it super stinky?
Thanks! No it’s not too bad. I would definitely recommend wearing a proper mask while using it though.
Hi There! Thank you for this great video, very helpful. One question though-- you mention in the description that you recommend filling large voids in layers. What constitutes as a large void? My particular knot is about 1.5"x1"x1.25". I wouldn't call it "large" but this is new for me. Based on the knot you filled in the video, I think it's probably ok to do in one pour, but figured I'd ask first.
It’s really gonna depend on what epoxy and hardner your using. All of them of the suggested pour thickness on the bottles and I would refer to that
I ended up getting the total boat 2:1 with medium hardener. Bottles do not give a max depth per pour. I did a test pour to fill a very small through hole in a board (we're talking a cylinder 3/8" diameter and 6/8" long) and it generated enough heat to volcano out through partially hardened epoxy (no heat dryer was popping bubbles anymore). So....I read that you have to time mulitiple pours so that it bonds to but doesn't crack the previous pour. Do you know what the wait time would be for that?
It’s typically around 1-2 hours depending on your temp in the shop. I would have thought you would be good with that epoxy and the size hole you stated in you original comment with pouring 1/4” deep layers. But, it will depend on shop temp and climate.
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop I'll keep playing around with it. Thank you for your time!
Is it necessary to clean out any splinters or pieces that are barley hanging on? Some of them add character, rather than having a larger epoxy circle. I’ll be using a black tint.
The epoxy will cast it in there so no need to if you don’t want to
I have a wooden door I'm hanging as a pantry door. There was an door knob that i gave removed. What is the best way to fill this hole so that I can stain the door…? Is minwax wood filler better idea ??
Last time I used an old door as a barn door I used some door knob plugs from lower to fill the area where the knob was. They were metal but plug the hole perfectly and looks fine. If you wanted to use wood I would most likely use a hole saw to make a plug the same size as the door knob hole. Then, once you put the wood plug in place use a small amount of Epoxy to fill any void areas and the small hole in the center
Thank you for this video. My issue is filling knots in hardwood that is already laid. How could this method be used to do that without being able to flip the board?
Any luck filling the holes in your project? Any advise? I’m Have a similar situation.
I’m assuming you mean hardwood floors? You could go ahead and fill it just fine. Might be a little difficult to tear up when the time comes though.
Great job, but I liked the knot!
Thanks!!!
Would this work for filling the handle screw holes in cabinet doors? Plan on painting then. Thanks.
To be honest I’m not sure how well epoxy holds paint. Might want to try it out on a scrap piece first to see
Thanks for the video. I am making a desk for the kids and plan to stain the wood. Should I do the Epoxy on the knots first, then sand, then stain? It seems like that is the way to go. Thanks for the video... probably gonna buy the Total Boat just because the mixing is so easy!
Thanks Ryan! Yes you are spot on as it pertains to the sanding and staining and the total boat is good stuff!
Can I use sawdust (cedar) as a pigment to add to the epoxy? Thanks!
Yep ice don’t that before
What tape did you use?
Ive found curing times are NOT as printed when filling knots in wood. Ive used many quality epoxies. I believe it has more to do with the quantity or thickness of the epoxy application can have drastic effects. Id like to see a video that covers this.
nice job. whats the title of background music?
Ok few things. I'm playing now with epoxy and filling up knots on oak boards that I'll be using for treads. Brand I used was called Epodex and it was curing for 2 days, not sure if it can be so drastically different and if it's normal. I also used painters tape but it was a total fiasco. It started squeezing through and leaking out, total disaster. Is this tape in any way special
I have a question for ya!! Do you think that this technique will work out good for hardwood floor holes and voids?
Lmao about the river tables comment!
😂😂🤷♂️
I have a dining table from Ashley’s and it has holes, it’s a finished table so I’m not sure if o can sand it what’s the best way to fix this?
Without being able to see the table it’s hard to say. If it’s real wood you can sand it and refinish
Do you clean the knot? Or does the epoxy stabilize it?
The epoxy should stabilize it even if the knot is loose. Sometimes I’ll scrape out some dirt or dust but other than that it doesn’t require much
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop thank you for the quick reply.
If I used this method, Can I paint the piece of wood in white without the fear of getting knot bleeding through out the paint leaving a stain mark. I wanna build a twin bed frame with some 2x4 from my local Home depot, but they have knots,,,
As long as you have completely filled the holes it shouldn’t bleed through.
You would still want to hit the knots (including intact knots) with shellac. The part of the knot that isn't fully covered by epoxy can still bleed. I have had good luck buying shellac flakes and dissolving them in denatured alcohol to get just the small quantities I need. (Shellac has a shelf life, including store-bought.)
My cherry picnic dining table is beautiful, but there is exposed wood that the polyurethane either never covered, or it has worn off. I'm assuming I need to clean those spots first because there are some food particles in there, then I should use epoxy to fill in those knot holes or imperfections, but there are some areas that may just need more polyurethane. How should I begin this project, or should we take it to a professional? I could send pictures. BTW, I am super anal about this table, as my grandfather made it from a cherry tree in his yard, many years ago. Thanks for any help you could give.
First off, thanks for watching and supporting the channel! Sounds like a great table and I love a piece with history like that! If you are super worried about it then I would take it to a professional. If I were doing it I would sand the entire thing starting at 80 grit and then fill the knots with epoxy. Then I would sand from 100 grit and incrementally go up in grit until hitting 220 grit. Then, I would finish with a poly or Arm-R-Seal.
Where exactly does one buy the like your using at? Lowes? Thanks
Pretty sure I put a link in the description for it on amazon. Check it out and let me know if it doesnt work.
How much epoxy did you mix for that size hole? (Approximately)
I just eyeballed it so I’m not really sure. It was not very much at all
what if the teak furniture has a slightly glossy/oily finish ?......how to repair the hole and cracks (on a vertical surface) without messing up the finishing around the defects ?
I’m not sure how you can do this vertically. It’s so thin that you almost have the be able to pour it on a horizontal surface
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop many thanks for your quick reply.......i reckon a wood putty or filler crayon might work ?........i just took delivery of a solid teak armchair (indoor use) a week ago, but already noticing hairline cracks......and even 2 holes (poor quality control i reckon).......the teak has a slightly oily/glossy finish.......i know the teak is grade C though
What color pigment you used on walnut
Hazelnut
Is the pigment just an oil stain or is it something purpose made to mix with epoxy resin?
It’s made just for epoxy. It’s powder
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop thanks mate.
What is the shelf life of the epoxy? It would take me a long time to get through that.
No clue man. Sorry, but I’m just not sure
The epoxy i tried is 72 hour cure time..this seems more practical what is the brand
Yeah that’s too much. You can get some that cure in 15 min if you want. Link in my bio
if it's a piece your gonna stain would you stain it first?
No I would do it after
Am I missing the link for the tint?
It should be in the description
What do you do when it's still in the floor and the hole goes all the way through to air?
If you can reach the back side you can put masking tape on the back to keep it from running out the back. If not you can stuff almost any material in the void and push it down below the surface so the epoxy will cover it once you pour it and it should seal off and fill the void. Use something that’s a similar colour to the knot so it doesn’t show through if a piece of it ends up near the surface. You can wait to pour the mixed epoxy until it starts to set and then lay it in and it won’t run through as easily. Mix up a tablespoon sized batch and try it on a scrap of wood to get the feel of it. Once you do that you’ll be able to see what it does and how long it takes to start to set up and all that. Use a little stick like a popsicle stick or something to pick it up and let it run in with. I usually just mix little amounts like that on a scrap of board of cardboard or whatever is around. You’ll enjoy the process.
How to fix a fence with the knots, or how to stop them from happening?
Like a wooden slat fence?
Why does the link take me to a 5:1 epoxy?
Im not sure why that link changed but I have corrected now. Thank you for brining that to my attention!
where is the link, sorry that I could not find it.
never mind, got it. I have a picnic table and it has a piece of wood rotten. Can I paint it with deck paint after filling with epoxy resin?
I’m sure you can
"Milled to final width." You meant "thickness."
Hahaha exactly
Good video, but your audio is way too hot and you're clipping all over the place.
Woodworking has gone from a painstaking art form to yahoos pouring goo in a hole & proclaiming themselves tradesmen...
Hello Jessy. WOW! Thanks so much for your video, very
useful and clear! I would be grateful if you could give me a suggestion.
I left a bottle of gel bleach in a bag on the floor. It is an old,
light colored, parquet; therefore, there is a very thin line of empty
space between the pieces of wooden strips. For some reasons, the gel
bleach leaked and, since the bag was not made of plastic (it was a cloth
bag), it passed through and got to the floor. It stayed there for a
very long time. The gel bleach had the time to literally dig a large
hole in the parquet. Which now looks like a crater, about 6 cm or more
in diameter, exposing the bottom layer of the floor, some sort of
strange material. I thought to fill it with epoxy glue (Gorilla epoxy
with the 2 syringes), wait that it dries, and then paint. I am glad to
find out that I can mix the paint with the glue itself. I need to fix
this quickly. It's not my home. I would be GRATEFUL if you could help me
with the following questions: 1) Since I cannot fill from the back
side, how do I address the need to leave a thin line between the wooden
strips? (yes, the crater extends beyond 1 strip, affecting the two
confining strips at its two sides too. 2) If I send you a picture of the
parquet (how/where can I send it? Thanks), would you be able to tell
me, approximately, what colors of what kind of paint should I buy? 3) I
cannot spend much money on huge tanks, so, is the Gorilla Epoxy glue
with 2 syringes (
www.homedepot.ca/product/gorilla-epoxy/1000778451 ) suitable for
this job and can I mix that type too with the paint? 4) If the epoxy
will end up overflowing, how can I gently smooth it without damaging the
surrounding healthy parquet? 5) Any other suggestion? Like, if it had
happened to you, what would you have done saving as much time and money
as possible? THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I will anxiously wait for your
response and my apologies for the long comment. (Loved the leftover epoxy idea! :) ). Kind regards.
Thanks for the comment and support! Not knowing the situation entirely it’s hard for me to comment to exactly the right move here. But, it sounds like you are on the right track. You might be able to heat the excess epoxy with a blow drier (be careful to not get the surrounding area too hot) and then the excess epoxy might get pliable enough to scrape off with a card. But, again, not knowing the exact type of floor it’s hard for me to help you that much. Sorry, this is a tricky question.
@@PenaltyBoxWoodshop Thank you Jessy, no need to apologize. On the contrary, thanks for replying and so quickly. Well, at least now I know that the little Gorilla Epoxy works just as fine as those huge tanks you used :)