Quick tip: Auto- locking munter hitch

I mentioned this device in a recent video and thought it could use a specific video to talk about the different versions and how to set it up.
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[@chadrambo1038]

Systems is my thing so I’m not usually impressed. Good job dude!

[@NPC-fl3gq]

That's actually really useful to know. Thanks Ryan.

[@mala-koza6059]

A simple progress capture, cool..

[@dodger2051]

It looks like the second method could make it easier to switch back to a regular Munter hitch, if you just used an autoblock connected to your harness to pull on the load strand and flip the hitch around. Then I think you could pop out the carabiner even under tension? Have you tried this? (Other advantage: your third hand for safe lowering is already in place)

[@Zolodar]

That's super cool! Thanks so much for sharing this 🙂

[@DevinH-64]

Nice!!!

[@erimendan]

Thanks for sharing, Ryan - that's pretty cool! One quick question, how does one lower the load side if needed? We'd have to go back to the original munter hitch?

[@ryantilley9063]

Ya there's not really a good way to release this set up, you would have to switch to a normal munter hitch in some way.

[@erimendan]

@@ryantilley9063 Well, that's one thing to keep in mind, then. Thanks for all the great info, Ryan. Keep it up! Cheers.

[@JimmySendsSometimes]

The only way I found that works is using the first method that Ryan shows. You unclip the locker from the load strand and then flip that carabiner through the other one. Now you're setup to lower. It's a bit clunky and cumbersome but it works, give it a try. If you use the second method you're screwed, there's no way to do it without setting up some kind of weird 3:1 into a progress capture. It's very complicated and not worth doing.

[@erimendan]

@@JimmySendsSometimes thanks for sharing, Jimmy. I'll give it a try

[@natetronn]

Is it Auto-Locking or Assisted-Locking and the break hand stays on no matter what, similar to Assisted breaking/blocking devices?

[@ryantilley9063]

You can pretty much treat it as a standard break assist device just like any other belay from above set up.

[@simonwilliams9850]

Would this be seen as adequate alternative to ATC belay on multipitch? If so, would you change anything for climber continuing above other than adding a quickdraw past it?

[@ryantilley9063]

It could be a substitute but I would only use it if I dropped my device, I don't think I would really use it as my primary belay. If I was going to belay my partner on lead with the Munter hitch on the anchor as a direct lead belay I wouldn't use an auto- locking munter just a regular Munter hitch.

[@urik]

Interesting!
Should for any reason you lower the climber a bit, is there any way to achieve that under tension?

[@ryantilley9063]

No not really, the only way to set up the blocking carabiner is if the Munter hitch is flipped into he taking in position. If you have it flipped in the lowering position you can't add in a blocking carabiner until you flip it back into the take in position.

[@Cypher7765]

Side loading a carabiner? What could go wrong.

[@johngo6283]

Sideloading is very different than cross loading. The technique shown here has zero risk of damaging or overloading your carabiner.

[@Cypher7765]

@@johngo6283I have no recollection of commenting this. I was probably drunk. I’ve since stopped drinking.
My bad.