I became the lead at my property this year. In the past we've always had at least 1 other experienced maintenance person to help brainstorm different issues or just offer a simple answer when I'm over-complicating an issue. I don't have that anymore. Your videos have been that extra voice for me and I appreciate it. Even basic stuff like this can help. Sometimes I just know by behavior and past experience to replace a certain part but it's nice to get more in-depth tutorials about why. I'm getting more sharp and accurate with diagnosis with your vids and some of the comments from viewers 👌
Hey man been watching your vids...new to apt maintenance and I got hired despite not being hvac certified. Rewarded my boss by getting certified but still need to learn a lot. I appreciate all your vids being new to the industry and hvac so Thank you.
If you're a homeowner and want to, and the coil still works, you can take these contactors apart and sand a shiny new flat surface on the contacts with about a 600 grit sandpaper on a flat table. works great. just like new. reduce, reuse, recycle, and save money too.
I was wondering why some units have a single pole and double pole. I have a crankcase heater for my unit but it comes with a double pole from factory though.
I have a outside condensing unit where the fan is not running. When i push the plunger to the contactor in, everything seems to run normally. Ive replaced the capacitor. Aside from a bad contactor, are there other possible reasons for this, for example, low freon?
I personally would shut off all breakers and thermostat, question if the spring is sticking is there a lubricant I can use if that happens...on the contactor?
It seems I always remember the crankcase heater being fed in the contactor line side. I always thought manufacturers used the single pole contactor to cut manufacturing costs.
L2 to T2 measured 217v. You said it's a bad contactor. But then text appears on screen saying the opposite, that L2 and T2 should be connected when contactor coil energized. What am I misunderstanding please? Aren't they connected when they read 217v? Did you mean to say, "shouldn't"? Thank you.
I replaced the contactor because it was stuck in the closed position, plus the contacts were badly pitted. New contact is also stuck in the closed position... I don't see markings to identify T1, L1, or T2, L2...? Could I have it upside down?
Question from a homeowner. My carrier infinity AC keeps giving me an error “74 - No 230V to compressor”. It happens irregularly. Some days it will work all day, others it will give me this error and not cool. After researching it seems it may be the contactor. Would a contactor fault irregularly like that?
Nice video. Only you did not torque the lugs to the proper in/lb settings. That information is on the contactor. (25 in/lb for screws, 40 in/lb for lugs, most often).
Yes this is true, one might need a dedicated torque screwdriver to be preset to know when proper torque is reached from the clicks. That's what I would recommend using for your first 1-5 years of replacing contactors and such. But once you have been doing this for over 20 years and have replaced and installed about 1,000 contactors you get a good 'feel' for what 25 inch/lbs is on a contactor. Not diy advice 👍
@ApartmentMaintenancePro You are partly right. I have been teaching students that they need to torque contactors. It's the students that are in the trade that don't realize correct torque. So veteran tradesmen are the ones that need the torque wrench the most. In my experience. Thank you for the reply.
I would have to see the contactor and your scenario. there are 120v contactors out there so just saying this isn''t a easy question to answer without more information
Replaced the contactor 2 times, condenser fan turns on after replacing it and works for a day and half just fine! Then, only the blower comes on but not the condenser fan. Any ideas what could be the problem? Thanks!
You are wrong in this video. And should not be given information to someone they will get shocked when you went L1 to T1 you showed zero go from ground to T1 and you will have 120v this is a 2pole single throw breaker if you have 240v on L1 L2 then the side that does not have the throw it carries the power across the metal bar.
I became the lead at my property this year. In the past we've always had at least 1 other experienced maintenance person to help brainstorm different issues or just offer a simple answer when I'm over-complicating an issue. I don't have that anymore. Your videos have been that extra voice for me and I appreciate it. Even basic stuff like this can help. Sometimes I just know by behavior and past experience to replace a certain part but it's nice to get more in-depth tutorials about why. I'm getting more sharp and accurate with diagnosis with your vids and some of the comments from viewers 👌
Thanks for watching! Check out the apt maintenance Facebook group great resource and active members to answer questions as well 👍
NCVT !😊
Don't be a part swapper. No bad habits!!
Singl porl repacing buoring carben poqer nor passing
No fluff straight clear explanation. Good video. Thanks.
Hey man been watching your vids...new to apt maintenance and I got hired despite not being hvac certified. Rewarded my boss by getting certified but still need to learn a lot. I appreciate all your vids being new to the industry and hvac so Thank you.
this was actually good to watch because we see it everyday on maintenances. so yeeeaahhhh!!! woooo!!!
If you're a homeowner and want to, and the coil still works, you can take these contactors apart and sand a shiny new flat surface on the contacts with about a 600 grit sandpaper on a flat table. works great. just like new. reduce, reuse, recycle, and save money too.
Dave, thanks for this video! Couldn't be any more clear and simple!
Thanks for video. By the way contactor doesn’t has mark L1 & L2 T1 & T2 is’t doesn’t matter opposite directions.
I was wondering why some units have a single pole and double pole. I have a crankcase heater for my unit but it comes with a double pole from factory though.
Not sure. Wire could be fed from bottom of contactor as well
Great video. I'm having a contactor issue now. So I'll replace the contactor. Hopefully this will work?
Well did it work?
@@Brekstahkid no
I have a outside condensing unit where the fan is not running. When i push the plunger to the contactor in, everything seems to run normally. Ive replaced the capacitor. Aside from a bad contactor, are there other possible reasons for this, for example, low freon?
I personally would shut off all breakers and thermostat, question if the spring is sticking is there a lubricant I can use if that happens...on the contactor?
Great explanation dave thanks 🙏👍
It seems I always remember the crankcase heater being fed in the contactor line side. I always thought manufacturers used the single pole contactor to cut manufacturing costs.
I think you want those separated on l1 to t1. Though not sure why it would matter
Excellent video. You got yourself another follower sir!
so if the two 24volt wires from the contactor touch each other, will that blow the transformer? I'm having an issue with blown transformers
That’s a short circuit yes it will blow the transformer
Why the one of the lines still have power if the disconnect got unplugged?
L2 to T2 measured 217v. You said it's a bad contactor. But then text appears on screen saying the opposite, that L2 and T2 should be connected when contactor coil energized. What am I misunderstanding please? Aren't they connected when they read 217v? Did you mean to say, "shouldn't"? Thank you.
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I replaced the contactor because it was stuck in the closed position, plus the contacts were badly pitted. New contact is also stuck in the closed position... I don't see markings to identify T1, L1, or T2, L2...? Could I have it upside down?
Sounds like you have constant 24 volt going to the contactor coil -
what if the condensor fan starts but not the compressor what could be the problem?
thanks Dave!!!!
4:08 Take note of that 1:1 replacement. It'll save you a lot of headaches if your a DIYer!
Question from a homeowner. My carrier infinity AC keeps giving me an error “74 - No 230V to compressor”. It happens irregularly. Some days it will work all day, others it will give me this error and not cool. After researching it seems it may be the contactor. Would a contactor fault irregularly like that?
Possibly
Great video! Thank you for sharing.
Nice video. Only you did not torque the lugs to the proper in/lb settings. That information is on the contactor. (25 in/lb for screws, 40 in/lb for lugs, most often).
Yes this is true, one might need a dedicated torque screwdriver to be preset to know when proper torque is reached from the clicks. That's what I would recommend using for your first 1-5 years of replacing contactors and such. But once you have been doing this for over 20 years and have replaced and installed about 1,000 contactors you get a good 'feel' for what 25 inch/lbs is on a contactor. Not diy advice 👍
@ApartmentMaintenancePro You are partly right. I have been teaching students that they need to torque contactors. It's the students that are in the trade that don't realize correct torque. So veteran tradesmen are the ones that need the torque wrench the most. In my experience. Thank you for the reply.
@@leealtmansr.3811 Thanks for the input 🙏
Great video brother 🤘💯🌎
Appreciate it👍
Thanks for sharing! 👍💯
Thanks good explanation 🙌
Tnx for sharing your knowledge
Good show thanks
What could it mean if sides of contactor is reading over 100 volts instead of 24 volts ?
I would have to see the contactor and your scenario. there are 120v contactors out there so just saying this isn''t a easy question to answer without more information
you said its dead but showed 280.08
non-loading meter. just ghost voltage. This exact meter takes awhile to get used to
Thanks dave 👍🏻
Welcome!
That will do it!
How come you didn't try to clean it?
Well done
Yes
That wasn't the breaker you pulled out it was the disconnect
👍👍👍👍🔥🔥
🍻
Replaced the contactor 2 times, condenser fan turns on after replacing it and works for a day and half just fine! Then, only the blower comes on but not the condenser fan. Any ideas what could be the problem? Thanks!
You are wrong in this video. And should not be given information to someone they will get shocked when you went L1 to T1 you showed zero go from ground to T1 and you will have 120v this is a 2pole single throw breaker if you have 240v on L1 L2 then the side that does not have the throw it carries the power across the metal bar.
First comment😀
🤣🤣you want to make money out of the TH-cam but don’t want to take responsibilities (for intertaiment purposes only)