How To Change A Light Switch | Beginners Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2024
- Klein Tools Voltage Tester (NCVT-3P): amzn.to/3yYjzh8
I will cover the complete process of changing out or wiring a 2-way light switch. I will also show an example of a 3-way light switch just in case that is the type you need to replace. This video is made with the beginner in mind and as such, I cover all aspects of the project to ensure you only need to take 1 trip to the home improvement store
Chapters
0:00 Project Introduction
1:23 Testing To Confirm No Power
2:20 Removing The Faceplate
3:09 Removing Light Switch From Electrical Box
4:11 Difference Between 2-way and 3-way Light Switch
6:50 Selecting the Correct Faceplate and Light Switch
9:47 Install New 2-way Light Switch
12:44 Finishing Job and Installing Faceplate
13:53 Final Project Notes
Tools and Parts Used
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Word of advice my friends. I had a similar wall setup with actually 3 switches. We needed to change the switches out as well. We shut the power off and checked the first switch and confirmed there was no power. However, the second and third still had power and we got zapped. The second and third were on different breakers. So if you have a something like what’s showing here, make sure ALL switches have no power going into them before touching wires with your bare hands.
I love your videos, but I also have a problem with my smart switches, to explain in details my hallway has three lights connect to my three way . Do I purchase a 4 way light switch with 2 black connector and 2 brace connector. My smart light wifi switches only have a hot connection and 4 out connection. I don't see a load connection. Just a hot and 4 out and a ground.
even with power off confirmed, I still avoid touching bare wire when possible.:-)
Good point. I just replaced a quad receptacle in my kitchen. Each side (duplex) in the box was fed from a separate breaker, so I had to shut off two breakers to change the one Quad.
@@1953beckley I don't understand what you are trying to do. If the lights are on the same circuit, wire them in series. You only the one wire from the switch. Down side is if one light burns out the downstream lights will turn off. You could wire them in parallel using one wire coming from your light switch, this is preferred as any light on the same circuit not working will not affect the ones downstream. This applies to a regular old school switch as well as a smart Wi-Fi connected light switch. I'm not sure why you need 4 wires of load coming from the switch.
Good. You got what you deserved.
Somehow I made it to 65 without ever changing a light switch. Thanks to you, I will never again have to hire anyone for this simple task. your video was clear and concise, thank you!
Thank you so much for posting this. My Electrician Husband passed away and I don't feel comfortable hiring an outside contractor, so your instructions made me feel comfortable enough to do this myself. I so appreciate this that I will follow your channel now.
I’m sorry for your loss
Thank you. You are the first person to show me how to easily make a J-hook using the wire strippers.
Absolutely! I’m 69 and I have wrestled with the things for years!
exactly. I never knew how easy it was to do.
Me too! I had no idea. I've always used needle nose pliers.
I absolutely love how clear you are verbally and visually. Thank you so much!!!
I just replaced my light switch following your step by step instructions. No prior experience. Invest in a voltage tester period. Thanks for posting.
Came across your video for help with replacing two broken light switches. You were so clear and informative - I was able to do this safely with so much ease! Thank you so much!!
Hey I just successfully replaced my first switch and had every confidence after watching your video and looking at the diagram on the box. I am having to learn these basic skills as my husband has memory impairment and can no longer do home repairs. I just saved a bunch of money. Thank you very much.
This is another great video Scott, thank you. One thing that I do with a switch install, when I'm trying to determine which might be the traveler and load vs line (if all black) is disconnect the power, remove switching receptacle and wires, put the Wago 221 (2 conductor) on each of the black conductors. Next, I will flip the power back on at the breaker and test them. The ones that don't show up as the hot line, I remove the Wago (that way when I'm going between receptacle and breaker no one will come along and touch a hot and I know that the one that still has the Wago on will be on the hot).
New subscriber. Good videos. I'm no electrician, but I was taught to never touch the conductive part of the screwdriver when working with electrical (as you did when you removed the switches) at 4:00. I know, you had checked and the power was off. However, it's kind of like treating every gun as if it's loaded. You don't take any chances. Many years ago (1978), I was removing the cover plate of an outlet and the screwdriver slipped and went right into the outlet. There was a large "pop", the lights in the building briefly dimmed, and the end of the screwdriver melted. Fortunately, I was only touching the rubber part of the screwdriver. My coworker came over and asked if I was okay, which I was. If I had been touching the shaft of the screwdriver then who knows what would have happened. Today, I triple check that power is off and I still never touch the shaft of the screwdriver.
Typicality you want to use screwdrivers that have insulation on the shaft which prevent this sort of thing, but electrical theory states that electricity always takes the path of least resistance. Assuming your skin has a much higher resistance than your metal screwdriver I doubt you would have been harmed. If your hands are wet on the other hand, all bets are off.
Back in 1978 the circuit breakers were not what they are today. You could arc weld on a 20amp circuit by grounding out the phase conductor. Breakers never seemed to trip out.
Thank you! The first electrical work I've ever done, and I didn't die (or even get shocked!). I figured it would be a simple job, but your explanation touched on everything I needed, making it even easier than I expected. The rare job that only required one trip to the hardware store. Much appreciated.
Thank you for this great video. It helped me change a switch and only make one trip to the store. I used to have my dad do these repairs but he is gone now so you were a big help.
One thing I would add for people to know. When testing the switch box or plug outlets the electrician at the store said one prong of the outlet is hot and one is neutral. So when you test you might get a green light on the tester when the box is still hot. Sorry if I'm not using the right technical terms but bottom line is test both prongs of you outlets before doing amything.
My light is now fixed and I am grateful for your video. Thanks again.
I find this channel very helpful. Things I THOUGHT I knew how to do, I find myself learning new things or learning how to do them better. Great content! 👍🏻
Exactly.
Here, we talk about single pole vs three way switch (or four-way, if that's the case). Also, with the model of switch you could have put the wire behind the plate and tighten the screw. This type of switch (probably a Cooper), allows you to put two wires in (on the hot side), instead of using a wire-nut (when feeding a second light switch somewhere else).
OH wow. I needed to change the switch in the bathroom. Saw that speed wiring and freaked. You really helped me understand. I just replaced the switch following your instructions. I'm constantly amazed that people do these videos to share. Now I'm ready if if I need to do this again. 😗
Just thought I'd throw something else out there when buying switches - face plates can also change the appearance of your project.
Doing my own, I found out plates (for switches and receptacles) come in either nylon or plastic.
Nylon is bit more $$ but it's got a more glossy finished look over plastic.
Also it's more pliable, so if you've got uneven walls or a multi switch plate that's not laying flat nylon is the better bet.
I purchased a #1 Robertson screwdriver in Canada and use it all the time when changing out switches and receptacles. It is much less likely to slip and ruin the screw head than a slotted or phillips head screwdriver.
Really well done video. In a future video you should discuss the wire strippers you use and why, and how to properly use them. I have always struggled pulling the wire casing off with the “cutter portion” of the tool, not as you did with the end of the tool. So I learned something here!
Thank you for that! Teach it in your next electrical video…..
Me too: I'd never seen that cut and pull trick.. And using the holes to bend the wires was nifty too.
Can I just use regular pliers?? I don’t know how often I’ll do this job and not sure I really want to buy an extra tool to sit around
@@kimmccoy9870 Hi Kim, no, you can't use regular pilers for stripping wires. Just asking this question suggests that maybe you should not do this job, but if you do, please be sure the breaker is OFF to the circuit you are working on. Cheers
Thank you for all of your videos! First-time homeowner, bought an old house that needed a lot of work, and so many of your videos have helped me tremendously.
I always write the breaker number on the inside of the face plates for each switch. Then no guess work there after.
I just recently found your channel. Already I’ve learned so much from you, things I really wanted to know. I love to do my own home repairs but have always been reluctant to tackle electrical projects. Your videos have given me the knowledge, tools, and confidence to make the basic repairs and upkeep in my 30 year old house! Thanks!
At 72, and a home DYI guy, I can't believe how much I have learned in this video. Where were you 30 years ago?
How do you know if your light switch has two or three wires connected to it without opening it up?
I replaced all of the light switches in my 3-story house and I had a collection of single pole, 3-way and even a 4-way switch. The rocker switches were beige and from the 90s and I wanted to replace them with bright white ones. It wasn't very difficult except that it wasn't always clear which wire was the hot wire since they weren't different colors. The orientation of the placement of the neutral and hot wires in the old rocker switches were not the same as in the new rocker switches. This means I couldn't just remove one from one switch and put it in the same place as the other switch. In your video, your wires are also the same colors. How did you open it up and automatically know which one was the hot wire? I had to go turn the power back on and use my tester to determine which one was hot. I also didn't realize that I didn't have to connect the copper or ground wire to the switch until your video? Why is it there?
Thank you so much for this video! Now I have no excuse to change my light switch!
Good way to check for power is have the light on, see it, use the NCV tester to confirm it's working . Then hit your power breaker off. You visually confirm light power is off but you also use the NCV because there still could be a 2nd power source. From some funky DIYer
Just leave the power on. If you don't shock yourself you saved a trip downstairs.
@@KingSobieski If you do shock yourself, you may get a free trip upstairs. Like you, I do a lot of installations on hot circuits. An AC voltmeter, gloves and insulated screwdrivers and pliers have kept me alive. Finding neutral and hot in a circuit is critical for 110 VAC boxes.
Pro tip:
If the light is only controlled by one switch then the switch is a single pole, if the light is controlled by two switches then you must use a "three way" switch.
If a house was built before 2011 then you were allowed to have non-grounded switches and have a white wire, the 2011 NEC code required all switches in dwellings to be grounded and both wires are black.
Thankyou for your clarification.
1) I stayed because of your eyes. I'm secure enough in my maculinity to say that.
2) I appreciate the up close view and percise explanation. I didn't die, so instructions were good. Thanks!
😅 He does have beautiful eyes.
Excellent presentation. I appreciate your emphasis on safety as well. Over the years - in several homes in several states - I have encountered a few abominations in hosehold wiring, some i was able to fix but many I had to call in professionals. I had a long career in repairing & calibrating elecrical-electronic test & measurement equipent, but I still know when something is outside my level of competence.
I know generally the push in connectors are thought to be inferior. I have a house that's 43 years old and I've replaced almost all of the outlets and switches in the house. They used the push in connectors on every one and I never found one that was loose, in fact I would have to break the plastic to get it out. However, I did find at least one screw that the wire was nearly off and two others that were loose. Also as far as colors, what you are calling an almond in the past used to be called ivory which I believe was the same as one of your almond. Also there is a dark brown color. I wired an addition on this house and finished the upstairs on a previous house and I always used 12 gauge wire. After I make the hook for the screw terminal I take a pair of needle-nose pliers to squeeze them together so they actually make a loop around the screw. Interesting as always.
The problem with them is that the connection only makes contact with the wire across a tiny area when compared to the screw terminals. While it could be a strong physical connection it makes for a weak electrical connection.
@@ericstoverink6579 this is very interesting but I would have to say that a loose screw doesn't really make a good electrical connection either. I don't remember that I've ever had trouble with either one but I just thought the push in connector was more secure. Are these no longer put on any outlets? Thank you for the information.
I'm glad you brought up the paint issue and using razor blade. It will make tears in your walls paint.
Yes! Thank you! This is a great break down. After watching I was able to easily remove a second switch for a light accessory on a fan that I wasn't using. Most videos like this leave you completely guessing if your doing it right or possibly going to electrocute yourself. The details here are clear and concise. Thank you for doing it right. One more Subscriber.
My mathematical self loved that you line up the screws to all be vertical at the end.😍😍
Wow! I have learned so much! Being a bit nervous still, but inspired! I’m going to throw the main power probably, and then fix all the ancient outlets and switches I have. Still will be using a Fluke tester. But thank you so much!
I just found your channel, first I had to admire your green eyes, then back up the video, and try to concrete on the project. I think I’m feeling confident to change my light switch. My switch has 4 dimmer switches. A bit scary, so I think I’ll turn off the main breaker. Thank you for your step by step video.
Thank you! You made it seem so simple
This was a fantastic video! I managed to safely repair a broken switch in my dining room. I just subscribed; thank you for providing such great tutorials :)
I appreciate the tips keeping me from electrocuting myself. Very simple instructions and glad I ran into your instructions. Thanks!
I'd love an opinion on Aluminum Vs Copper wiring. I assume mine is original in a 1974 Rancher home, but in various places where previous owners have done improvements in finishing the basement, there is a mix of Al and Cu. The Al at the box looks in good shape, no signs of powdering, but if it is original to the house is it getting too old?
I didn't know about using the hole in the wire stripper to make the j-hook. That'll save me lots of time in future and do neater work. Thanks!
It wasn't explain as to which wire goes into which terminal? Does that matter for a 2-way switch?
Hello Scott, I am trying to do many repairs to my 1999 Triple wide Manufactured home on my own. I thought I knew what I was doing but after replacing only 1 light switch to upgrade to the flat panel switches and outlets. I also replaced 4 outlets but now for some reason, my outlets and the one lite switch, nothing is working at all. I think what you were saying is that a light switch will be a double switch if there are more than 1 switch that goes to 1 room. The power has worked fine before but I don’t know where the problem lies. The light switch does have two switches for the dining room and it has 2 black wires and one Red wire. I investigated a different switch but it is different than the first switch. I was taking only 1 wire off at a time so I am sure it’s correct then go to the next wire and repeat. Both of these switches have a separate switch to light the hallway and dining room. The wires are different so I left those others alone. I did the same thing using just 1 wire at a time to not screw it up and I have replaced 4 of them. Can you please let me know if I am doing something wrong and how to fix the problem. I, like you don’t like the holes to pinch the wires in to so I did the same as you making the J- Hook. I am 61 yrs old and a widow so I have no one that could be able to assist me. I can’t afford to pay an electrician to com out to fix them. Is there a site that you have on here somewhere that would tell me what I did incorrectly? I am trying to work thru my disability and do the work myself or I may never get it done. I would appreciate any help you can give me. Thank you so much.
Jill from Washington State
Excellent job. The only concern I had regatds the colors referred to asbetween light almond and almond - I know them labeled & referred to as almond, and Ivory, and is much less confusing, IMO.
The traditional light color for switches, receptacles and plates is called "Ivory." The traditional dark color is "brown." "Black" is additionally now appearing in the stores.
I would NEVER snip off wires when changing these! Those wires are always too short already. Wires that have been inserted through the backstab wiring holes can be released by inserting a small blade screwdriver in the slot next to the hole.
Backstabs seem to break too easily
i caught that also. white, almond, ivory. i have picked up the wrong one in the wrong box, at the store that someone put back wrong.
The length of wire that goes into the backstab is usually damaged, so you have to remove it. If the wire is too short you can/should pigtail it.
I would not have cut off the existing J-hook if it looks to be in good shape. I always cut off backstab wires since the tab (and often the process of trying to free the wire from the backstab hole) scores the wire and makes it weaker.
Your video and clear instructions gave me the confidence to do this on my own. Just replaced a bunch of light switches today. Thank you!!
I had a difficult time replacing a light switch today because 12 gauge stranded wires were used. The box contained one outlet and two single pole switches, and was full of AlumiConn adapters that have 12 g leads for greater wire flexibility. When I unscrewed the existing wires from the terminals, the stands were completely flattened and messed up. I used a pliers to twist the strands back into their original shape but it was not as neat as I'd hoped. I formed a J hook loop and found that it was nearly impossible to force the thick bundle of unkempt strands under the screw terminals. The strands kept flattening out and "oozing" out from under the screw. I was reluctant to cut the wires shorter and start with a fresh end. (I know the technique for installing new stranded wire on screw terminals, leaving a short section of insulation at the end of the wire to maintain the shape of the wire). After struggling for 20 minutes on one connection without success, I decided to use a different switch that has pressure plates under the screws, allowing the wire to go straight under the plate without bending. I still had difficulty forcing a thick bundle of slightly messed up strands under the plate. (The switch was marked as allowing 20 g wires.) This time I only needed to struggle for 10 minutes to finally get the wire to push in. Even if I cut the wire and made a fresh start, I'm not sure it would had made that much of a difference. Would making a pigtail be in order? It sure would have been easier. Anyone have a comment?
Some options:
Strip off a bit of the insulation without cutting the wire and pull it to the end of the wire.
Use a Wago lever nut to form the pig tail. (You could use a wire nut, but I think the Wago would work better.)
Solder the wires and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
The technique for bending a hook using stranded as you already mentioned works ok. But the easiest way to do it would be to buy a device that allows for back wiring, which uses the little pressure plates. The next best option would be to crimp yellow insulated forks on.
Good thing to do while at Lowe's...If you're shopping for single pole switches, Make sure if you need more than one. To check that they are ALL the same kind. I needed 3 single pole switches and when I got home. 2 of them were double pole switches in the single pole bin at the store. Now I have to return the 2 doubles.
Just changed my switch! Didn’t even have to call my Dad 😭 thanks for the video, it was very easy to understand.
Thank you. Followed easily and changed my first switch. The only think I could have used more help with is buying a wire stripper. There must have been at least twenty version at my local hardware. And the prices ranged all over the place. The most basic model did just fine. Best.
I loved how you used the wire stripper to make the J hook !
I recommend Legrand switches because they have back wire (not speed-wiring) and side wire. it says spec-grade as well, but they are $2.30 a piece at menards
Appreciate you vids. I have been using the tools I you show for years and never knew all of then ways to use to make the jib easier!
Get a Non-Contact Voltage Detector like this video says! Especially if there is more than one switch in the box. The one I just replaced was in a double. The breaker panel was poorly labeled. By trial and error we got the good switch power to turn off, as evidenced by the light bulb going off. At that point I would have assumed that the power to both switches were off, however the Non-Contact Voltage Detector told me otherwise. In fact, the two switches were fed by two different breakers. I didn’t want to spend the eighteen dollars at first, but I am glad I did.
I am changing out a double light switch that is almond, it has 2- 15amp switches. I bought heavy duty white switches that say up to 20amps. Are these okay to use or should I just switch them out for the 15 amp? I'm seeing it might be a little tight fit in the box. But I'm also wondering if there could be an electrical issue using the larger replacement switches? Thanks so much.
Funny I had a problem with the local electrician he put all allmond in my bathroom when everything else was white, so I had to have him come back and put white in. He told me almond was called ivory. Whatever at least it all matches now.
Lots of good information here, thanks for putting it together. Any time I put together a box with more than one fixture in it I wrap every other fixture with black tape to prevent any short between the fixtures. Some people do all of them, but I think thats overkill.
Yeah, I really only wrap with electrical tape in a tight metal box. Appreciate the feedback.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Hello, during the '50s and 60's used friction tape for electrical work. is there an advantage or disadvantage or safety reason or self-life for friction tape? or am maybe I'm old school
@@jameskappel Friction tape DOES NOT insulate. You should only use "plastic" electrical tape for a wire repair or wrapping a switch or receptacle. In the old days splices were dipped in solder then wrapped with rubber tape for an insulation then friction tape was applied over the rubber tape for mechanical protection.Friction tape will dry out from heat and crumble off the splice. The first wire nuts were porcelain followed by bakelite and then modern plastics, now the Wago type connectors are becoming popular (with some electricians) I imagine those old timers freaked out when the first wire nuts came on the scene just like they do today with Wagos.
thank you. got it. much appreciated. have a nice day @@thomasdragosr.841
Electric tape is for hacks and amateurs. There is literally no need for it. Nothing is magically shorting out and there's not near enough voltage to jump an air gap of that size. A needless waste that gums up the inside and traps heat and can actually lead to failures. Don't be that guy.
Suggestion for a video: I’m in illinois too. I’d like to see how to add an electrical outlet up to and behind a wall mounted TV. I think I’m required to use metal boxes and conduit.
There should be no reason to. Romex from existing receptacle to new plastic gang box and receptacle. You could use metal, though I have no idea why you would for a simple receptacle.
Depends what city your in but even in Chicago as long as it's under 6 feet you can use mc or Greenfield (yeah it's metal not Romex but you don't have to demo your wall, just fish through wall cavity)
I have a three way light switch and a dimmer switch which one can I connect and outlet to. I have it connected to the three way switch but if you put on the other light switch the electric to the outlet is shut off. Can I connect it to the dimmer switch without it affecting the power to the switch
I also like the Eaton face plates for toggle switches as well. On the toggles, the Leviton plates have a gap above and below the switch, which collects dust. The Eaton plates are actually made to exactly match the size of the border on the switch itself, right down to the slightly rounded corners. Much cleaner look. (Not to mention, the Eaton toggle itself has a more modern, flatter and dust resistant design rather than the ugly, dust-collecting notch in the top and bottom of the Leviton and p&s ones.) my least favorite wall plate design has to be the old toggle ones from the 90s that had unnecessary lines near the top and bottom screws, not to mention a giant gap between them and the switch itself. I think these were made by Sierra electric. I do, however, like the old ribbed Art Deco plates, and think they need to make a reproduction of those for older homes.
Djij....they do make them, and Lowe's and HD both carry em! Lot of people like smooth style...easier to clean!
I have replaced a number of outlets and switches. Back when the house was built, they oftentimes used backstab, and we have 12 gauge wiring, which was allowed back in the day.
So when I do replacements, I frequently end up using "commercial grade" or "heavy duty" as those support backscrew (the residential grade do not always support this - esp if switching to decora style). It is easier and quicker to release the old outlet backstab, and then substitute in a new outlet with backscrew - less time spent bending wires
12 is still allowed
Modern homes use 12 and 14 gauge wiring. A 12 gauge wire can handle more current without overheating, which is better than 14 gauge wire. A 12 gauge wire is also suitable for lights because it has less resistance do to its larger diameter.
I replaced 2 switches in the bathroom next to a sink, one was a light switch and the other for a vent. I noticed that the GFCI outlet was connected to both switches. Do I need to do the same? Is it a safety issue? I didn’t but now I’m starting to wonder if I should have done so. Hopefully you understand what I’m trying to say.
At 10:12 on your How to change a light switch/ Beginners Guide video
Notice that there are two slits on the device where the mounting screw is located.
One slot is for 12 AWG the other side is for 14 AWG wire, both can be used as a stripper.
Followed this and it worked. Thank you!
I need to replace a bathroom dimmer switch, but my contractor messed up my housing box and it is now super crooked into the wall! Is there anything I can put behind the light switch so that it is even with the wall as 1/2 of the box is too far into the wall?
Great video. I've been watching all your electrical videos this past week and I thank you for passing all you knowledge. Greatly appreciated. I have a question. If you have a standard double light switch and wanted to change them to Decor switches will they fit or do you have to change the box? Thanks ahead if time.
@m rapacki thank you
I’m for snipping the conductors right off the device (especially if they’re long enough) instead of fighting with them (12 AWG).
If you have a new house and plenty of wire left.
I always put electric tape around before inserting switches or outlets. Good presentation
I only use electrical tape if the contacts are too close to the edge of a box or mud ring (my home has metal boxes). otherwise you are left with a sticky switch if you ever replace it. Theres nothing wrong with electrical tape, it's just not necessary in most homes that use plastic boxes.
Wow. There are plenty of DIY channels on TH-cam, but yours is the best I’ve seen so far. I’m not a beginner, but certainly no pro when it comes to performing simple electrical projects around the house. But I watch to pick up tips I may not know…. For example: I have the exact same wire stripping tool, but never used the hole to prep my wire for screwing into the switch. Now I don’t have to carry needle nose pliers anymore! Thanks for the tip! I clicked on your channel because I have two black wires leading into my switch, and I’ve always seen one black and one white. Now all I have to do is test for the hot wire and hook them up. Thanks again - - very well done!
Do you not typically wrap switches/outlets with electrical tape before stuffing in box?
I installed a "lighted" (one that emits a very low light when turned off) switch, but I still have power in either switch direction. I tried a different lighted switch suspecting the switch may be bad, and I get the same results. I then replaced the switch with a normal two way switch and it works as expected. Does the lighted switch still run a small amount of voltage for the indicator light to work, and if so, what is the draw? I suspect that is how it works, but want to validate. This would make for a good instructional video.
I always install the faceplate screws vertical to keep you from breaking a fingernail it is very possible to get your fingernail caught in that screw if it's horizontal
that's a problem i've yet to come across in the 2 years i had horizontal screws.
Great job on the video. Very clearly communicated and fully informative.
Thank you! You very clearly explained something I'd been unable to find an answer to.
1) I've replaced the outlets and switches in 4 of my own houses and just finally got some wire stripper. The DIY'r has a Stanley knife and plyers.
2) I will do anything I can to not cut the wires when changing an outlet. In almost every instance they are too short already and I don't need to make that problem worse.
Brett, if the wires get too short you can add a pigtail using an IDEAL Splice line, a 2 port port push in, or a 2 port Wago lever nut. You may also use a traditional wire nut, but they will typically need a little more wire to work with.
@@surferdude642 Agreed. It can be a time saver to just cut the conductors from the device then re-strip (exposing new copper).
@@rocketrider1405I disagree - in general, I only trim a wire if it is damaged or excessively long. Having to work around a short wire is a pain and I don't see how saving a few seconds on a job is worth it. A good house can last a century or more - mine is 130 years old and going strong. Modern cables may stay in good shape for that length of time, but aren't easily replaced with all the staples that are used. I remodelled my kitchen 10 years ago and already I replaced a few switches. I think the best solution is to move from cheap switches with just looped-screw connections to better switches that have straight wire screw plates that are easy to disconnect. Otherwise, I reuse the wire loops when possible - it usually isn't that hard with the right tools.
Bret, do not listen to Ted. More cost & more clutter in the box than before you started👍
@@JasonEDragon Especially with fragile wires in the tiny boxes of the old houses.
Of the two black wires to the switch, should the load/scource wire be connected to the top screw of the switch?
I want to know how I can move dual light switch from one side of wall to back side (directly opposite or original placement). Looks as if I can't do it, because light switch electrical box is already nailed in place (into a stud). Guessing I must make a larger hole in drywall to remove the electrical box, & just flip it around to face opposite wall (new hole, of course). And I don't know if any of this is clear enough to understand what I'm wanting to do.
In your case what you will need is a Sawzall with a bi-metal cutting blade, you will insert the blade between the box and the stud and just cut the two nails. then fight with the box to pull it out of the wall and also remove the wires from it. On the other side of the wall where you want to move the switches to, you'll get what they call a REMODEL box or OLD WORK box, trace it in the spot you want it to go and cut the hole for it. punch out the holes for the wires in the new remodel box, feed the wires into it and stick the box into the hole. the remodel box has two screws on opposite corners with flag style flip out arms, when you tighten the screws the flags swing out and will pinch the box into place against the drywall. they are very secure. do the wiring for the switches and then just repair the empty hole in the wall at the original location.
Another idea could be to cut the hole on the back side just -above- the height of the original box. After you remove the switch you should be able to pull the wires up and out of the original box then install an "old work" box on the new side and you should have enough length on the wires to get them in and attached..
This could work if the original box had the wires coming in to the top of the box.
If your house uses the bx metallic covered wire then it might be difficult to remove them and you may need more experienced help.
Charles is correct, but he didn't mention one advantage to doing it this way is that you can just add a blank wall plate to the original box which eliminates the need to do drywall repair. Also, if the wire enters the original box at the bottom instead of the top, just put the new box "below" the original on the opposite wall so you will have plenty of length on the wire. Your only issue would be if you have wires entering and exiting the top And the bottom. This frequently happens when they "pass through" power to an outlet closer to the floor from a switch box. If you have this situation, you will need to remove the box with the Sawzall method in order to maintain enough wire length.
Best complete explanation on every single detail I need to know!! Thx
Okay I have a similar set up but I can’t tell which way lines are running. The box is just under my fuse box. There are 3 red lines coming down to this box. There are 5 white lines coming in to the box as well as one black( assuming pass through down the stairs to the other switch.).
What’s the best way to figure out which ones to use ans which ones go where. Right now my upstairs is running fine but part of the downstairs is not working.
I had Wemo switches installed but I’m moving out and taking them with me ans re installing new switches and in the process I’ve messed it up apparently. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I really like they way you take time to explain the subject. thanks for the very helpful video
Is it reccommended to stick with the same type of light switch? Like can you switch from a light switch like the one you have to one that is a little knob you flip up, is it possible?
The faceplate colors are typically called white, almond (for the lighter colored plate) and ivory (for the yellower colored plate). These are the names you’ll typically see in stores.
Good video, one question..Can you replace a standard switch which controls high hat/recessed lights with a dimmer switch to make the lights dimmable? Thx
I think the push-in wire connectors are fine. I don't see manufacturers of electrical outlets risking their company's future producing products that can get them sued. And if they were a problem, it would be well developed fact, just like using aluminum wire was.
Sued for what?
Nobody said it was a safety issue. The problem is that with the frequent vibration and wiggling that light switches might experience, the wires can work loose over time. Then they don’t function properly.
@@totallyfrozen You mean no one told you it is a safety issue. I"ll do that now. When current passes through a resistance such as a lose contact, heat is generated per Watts law. Current squared times the resistance equals watts. In the case where aluminum house wire and copper terminals in outlets were used in 1960s, two metals expanded at different rates. That caused lose connections with higher resistance at the outlet terminations and hot spots at the outlets resulting in house fires.
I can show you photos of the push-in that burned open (and seriously scorched the receptacle and wire) from the one I just replaced. Granted it lasted about 20 years, but still. I replaced it (and the other receptacles in the room) with the commercial style, screw-down, and they should last as long as the house. Plus the commercial outlets will hold a plug tighter for many more years without wearing out.
I was always curious about how the term '2-way' and '3-way' are defined. A '3-way' should be called a '2-way' since there are *2* ways (via the travelers) that electricity will flow; a '2-way' should be called a '1-way' for since we only have a single circuit.
in other countries, they do call 3 ways 2 way switches. I guess Americans are just weird.
maybe they base it off how many screws there are?
I have 2 lights on 1 switch. I would like to split them to 2 switches with one of them being a motion switch. Not sure how to split them first and second is it possible to incorporate the motion switch? I also live in IL.
Depends how they’re wired. If both lights have separate lines going from switch to fixture then you’re set. If they’re daisy chained (both lights running off one line from switch) then you would need to run a new wire to one of the fixtures.
nice job! learned a couple tricks I did not know, thanks so much
I am working on a ceiling fan and the LED lights are flickering. Any thoughts which might be the easiest things to check?
Thanks much
Dan
I have been a DYIr for many years having learned from my dad who did nearly all of his own electrical, plumbing, etc himself. I’m going on 70 and still learning, especially after watching your great videos.
So, I have one question for you…what is your take on wrapping electrical tape around the terminals of light and receptacles as well as connectors. I have a friend who is an electrician and he does it saying it’s just an additional layer of protection from short circuits and keeping connectors from unscrewing. Inquiring minds….
Thank you!!
Dennis Poltrino
I’m a diy’er myself but have worked on hundreds of electrical circuits and what I can say is that it’s probably overkill if the switch has all the screws tightened down and going into a plastic junction box, which is typically the case. On the other hand if the outlet or switch is going into metal junction box then it’s a good idea to wrap it with electrical tape.
I have a mobile home light switch in wall there are 4 black wires do it matter which 2 to hook up together .please help
Do all brands of Decora switches have the same loud click when they are actuated or is one brand quieter than the others? Despite the look of the Decora type, my wife is adverse to me installing them because they are louder than traditional toggle switches. I couldn't find a way to search comments so apologize if this question is already answered...
Hello. So I have two lighted switches that power led lights outside. I noticed that they don't turn off all the way off. Didn't have a problem with other led's in the same location. The led's that don't shut off all the way off have more wattage to them I think it's 28w compare to like 7w. What is the problem here Doc ?
I have a gas fireplace with a wall switch that turns on the fire. Does the above video describe how to change that type of switch? Anything different I should know?
How do I know which is the traveler hot wore and the regular hot?
Could you change the other switch so you don't have to change it later? Why is there no ground wire attached?
Great video! I am replacing 2 three-way switches and but one of them had 4 wires going to it... 2 travelers, a common, and then a wire directly from the other switch. On the one with 4 wires, two were on the same screw (one in the hole and the other wrapped around). Can't do that on the new switch. Any ideas of what I should do?
Did you figure it out? I'm struggling with similar thing right now. Had a "jumper" black wire between the 2 switches. No idea how to fix this. 1 switch keeps triggering the breaker box to go off when used.
You could add a pigtail, but I'd find out what it's for. It sounds like the switch boxes are being used to feed another outlet. Is the box where the 4 wires were on the switch the hot side? Is there a splice on the other end to some unknown wire?
@@118jar That just sounds like one or both sides are miswired. Get a length of romex (or a length of whatever wire you have) and test continuity with a multimeter/tester to confirm which wire is which. A Wago lever-nut would be good for this so you can easily connect and disconnect the wires. Once you know that, you can at least wire up the switches correctly.
I’m positive whoever put in a new light switch by our front door messed up.
One switch is for porch light, the other is for the two lights in the entryway/kitchen. The entryway light doesn’t work at all and both switches can be used to turn the one working kitchen light off/on.
Can we fix this ourselves or do we need a pro?
Thanks!
I have a switch that operates the fixture in a backward position. What I mean is when the fixture is on the switch is in the off position. I checked the orientation of the switch and it is installed correctly. Can you tell me what this means and how to fix it. Thank you !
I have a two way switch with 3 screws..is that for the ground wire?
When you were putting it back together how did you know which wire was the hot and which was the load? Seems like it would matter. At least to make sure the switch does not function backwards. Also how did you know which was which when taking it apart? I have a dimmer switch that has two terminals on it. There are 2 brown wires going to the terminals.
I can't find new dimmers like the one I have so I was thinking about replacing it with the single pole switch you showed. I do not need dimmer just want to use my lights.
Excellent video, outstanding instruction, easy to understand, clear and concise step by step. Keep the help coming!! Just another DIYer, who just subscribed to your site. Thank you.
Push-ins are totally fine for light switches. Even if it operates 10 bulbs at 60W each, that’s only 5A in a switch that’s rated for 15A.
Hi there, thank you so much for the video. Question I changed 2 of 3 switches. Of course, the very last switch surprised me by being a 3 way switch. The reason I'm surprised is that light (two outdoor foyer lights) is only controlled by one switch. So, my question is why is it a 3 way switch? Is it because it turns on two different bulbs outside?? Thanks in advance.
Can you use backwiring on that same eaton light switch ?