The original bearings on my saw had inner races that were a good deal wider than the outer races, therefor they held that bushing quite snuggly but when i replaced the bearings, everything was a little different due to the replacements not habing the inner races any wider, I imagine getting ahold of the NOS originals would be difficult and exorbitantly costly. The saw is working absolutely great now despite the protective shaft bushing basically just rattling around in there now.
My Daughter just found me this same saw , along neighborhood sidewalk, good video answered all my restoration questions . Rockwell 10" 34-348 1975. THX Gil So Cal.
Helpful. I forgot that I have a bad memory (you can see how that works lol). I did a full disassembly on a model 10 and let several days pass before I even ordered the bearings so everything that looked so easy to remember became a pile of puzzle parts. Your camera shots and angles are great and did the trick of unlocking the memory. Thank you.
I inherited a Rockwell saw from the 60s, from a man who taught me wood working. He was a perfectionist and I really learned a lot from him. He lived to 101 and was so happy that I took his tools. When I brought the saw home, it was sitting a few years not used and I found the bearings are howling, so this video was very helpful. Luckily I have all the manuals from when it and it shows the bearings and a exploded view
@@ordinarypete Thanks, yes I do. I learned wood working on these machines and I never thought I own them. They help in the restoration of antique music machines that I have on my channel
I have this puppy, too: I got it from Habitat for a steal. Mine is in nice shape - even has the manual and the blade wrench, but you got the miter gauge. Thanks for this video. Beautiful job on the saw. I’m going to clean the underbelly of mine today; I’ll use your video for reference.
I have a much older version of this saw (40's Delta Rockwell according to my research) I recently replaced the bearings on, that one on the arbor side is a MUTHA to get off and back on as well! I put the shaft into the freezer and the bearing into the oven on 250 for about thirty twenty minutes and it was ok getting onto the shaft but had one helluva time gettin the old one off.
Hey just wanted to thank you for taking the time to document your project. I am restoring an 80's Model 10 and was not sure what to do at the spanner wrench stage.
Well, I've got the new bearings ordered and have the saw mostly torn down, except for removing the recessed nut from the arbor behind the pulley. It wants a 7/8ths deep well and wouldn't ya know, with all the ratchets and sockets I have, that ain't one of them, LOL! So, got one of those ordered too and it should be here tomorrow. I'll be adding one of those link belts too as the original belt is, I think, the actual original belt....it's cracking with dry rot and wasn't even aligned straight. I don't know how the adjustment wheels ever did work with all the sawdust caked up inside of it, but it's been cleaned and vacuumed out now. I do like that the stand has wheels in the back to make it easy to move around. Its stand looks different than yours, though the actual saw looks identical. I think someone must have changed the motor in the past as well as mine's motor isn't Rockwell, it's a 1.5hp Dayton.
I have a Rockwell 10” that I bought new. I could tell it needed new bearings from the howling noise it made when in use. I got it apart before finding your video but found it very helpful for disassembling and reassembling the spindle itself. Thanks for good videoing and narration. Tom.
Thank you sir... I'm working on a rockwell 10" saw quite similar...very rusted and sitting for decades... Your information really really helps.... Thank you for sharing your knowledge.... From Fiji Island...
This was very helpful. I have a Delta 34-410B, which has an identical configuration inside. I have done a lot of searching and wasn't sure how best to handle the replacement of the arbor bearings. For one thing, the exploded diagrams on parts websites don't seem to account for the 7/8" nut that fits inside that bearing retainer ring/nut. I gave up looking for Delta and searched for Rockwell instead. Your video made all the difference. I had everything apart, and the arbor wasn't moving. I wasn't sure how hard to hit it, and then I saw your demonstration. I hit it a little harder, and it popped right out. I wish mine went back together as easily. My bearings fit tightly, even with the addition of a bit of 3-in-1 oil to help them slide. I used my scroll saw to cut a plug similar to the one you did on the lathe. Not as elegant, but it worked. I haven't put everything back together again, but I'm pretty confident that it's going to work.
Thanks for the video, I've been using it as a guide for my 10" Contractor saw because they seem to be dang near identical. Surprisingly I had two 6203 bearings in my tool chest! 😂
Thank you for this video. Very thorough and methodical. I have a 1950’s Delta Homecraft that I’m fixing up, and everything with the trunion, arbor, and such looks identical. Very helpful.
Quite helpful, just recently picked up a 1980 34-440, so far everything is the same except motor size and not having the the “square” stop bolt for the tilt.
Finally got the saw back together and nothing will adjust, blade will move up and down about an inch and the tilt won't budge at all. Broke the wheel trying to get it to move. If I adjust the blade to where it stops it locks the blade up so it won't turn either. I'm about disgusted enough to just keep the motor, haul the rest to the county dump and just buy another one. Edit: 3 days later...Took it back apart and put it back together and now it is adjusting just fine...I have no idea what I did this time that I didn't do the first time but now it's working just like it is supposed to.
Well, I finally got the arbor shaft out but that one bearing is giving me fits, lol. It will break, and in fact has broke the outer race off, but the inner race is stuck good. I'm going to take it to the bench grinder tomorrow and grind on it till the inner ring has ground through on one side so I can get the !@$@! thing off.
Hey, this was great. Question: I dont have enough room to center blade with trunnion adjustment. Is there a way to move the arbor flange to the right, If I am looking from the rear? Currently the blade cuts into the red throat plate, when my blade is at 45 degrees. Thanks.
The blade should be about 1 inch from the right edge of the opening in the bed when standing in front of the saw. The trunnions have a limited range. Mostly just to square up the blade. If the blade is off by a lot I suspect something is not in the correct place. If the blade is correct the throat plate may be the issue. Is it stock?
I’m using your video to help me replace bearings. Also’ I notice a 1/16 rust void in the middle space. This means that the arbor moved recently towards the pulley side. I’m hoping that the washer holding in the bearing is loose.
I also have this same saw. Would you mind saying what size bearings I should order for it? Hope to have mine looking and operating as well as yours soon :) Would also love to know how that riving knife was attached.
I don't have the number memorized but they are a very common size and available on Amazon. Check the side of the bearing when you remove it. There should be a number on it that can be ordered. Documentation on line for the saw should also specify the bearing number to be used. As a last resort, you can measure ID, OD and thickness and just order by specs from a bearing company.
I just bought a Rockwell Mod. 9 at an auction... brand new in the unopened box... dated 1979 for $100.00. Is that a good deal? I have to assemble it tomorrow.
Did it come with the motor? Even without it is a good price for one that does not require rebuild and has all the bits and pieces that come with it. So many times the blade guard is missing or the fence is not right. Did it come with the side extensions?
Ok, so it looks like I've commented before BUT man, I could use some help. I need a replacement bearing for a 1940s Walker-Turner 10 inch table saw I'm restoring. This bearing is for where the arbor tilt worm gear attaches to the base. It's marked like this on the outer race: L 02 SKF C Made in USA Any thoughts?
@@black1985vette yeah I figure this one is too old to cross reference. So, probably need to get some calipers or a micrometer? Oh, hey another note I thought about your work today and bought a pneumatic die grinder and thought I remembered you had links to wire spindle brushes.
@@black1985vette so I got a $14 die grinder from HF as well as the nylon cup wheel. But it would bog out once I touched the table saw surface. Do you think that is because of the cost and rating of the die grinder? Maybe I would need a more expensive tool? Unless it's a setting on the set screw. Any thoughts?
I have a table saw like that one. Are you interested in selling the bracket, blade guard, and splitter or know of someone who has those parts ? Mine is also a Rockwell Model 9 Contractor Saw. My father-in-law gave it me . I would appreciate the help. Thanks
The original bearings on my saw had inner races that were a good deal wider than the outer races, therefor they held that bushing quite snuggly but when i replaced the bearings, everything was a little different due to the replacements not habing the inner races any wider, I imagine getting ahold of the NOS originals would be difficult and exorbitantly costly. The saw is working absolutely great now despite the protective shaft bushing basically just rattling around in there now.
My Daughter just found me this same saw , along neighborhood sidewalk, good video answered all my restoration questions . Rockwell 10" 34-348 1975. THX Gil So Cal.
Helpful. I forgot that I have a bad memory (you can see how that works lol). I did a full disassembly on a model 10 and let several days pass before I even ordered the bearings so everything that looked so easy to remember became a pile of puzzle parts. Your camera shots and angles are great and did the trick of unlocking the memory. Thank you.
I inherited a Rockwell saw from the 60s, from a man who taught me wood working. He was a perfectionist and I really learned a lot from him. He lived to 101 and was so happy that I took his tools. When I brought the saw home, it was sitting a few years not used and I found the bearings are howling, so this video was very helpful. Luckily I have all the manuals from when it and it shows the bearings and a exploded view
That’s awesome man! I hope you love what you have. I’m trying to put together tools for the first time in my life
@@ordinarypete Thanks, yes I do. I learned wood working on these machines and I never thought I own them.
They help in the restoration of antique music machines that I have on my channel
I have this puppy, too: I got it from Habitat for a steal. Mine is in nice shape - even has the manual and the blade wrench, but you got the miter gauge.
Thanks for this video. Beautiful job on the saw. I’m going to clean the underbelly of mine today; I’ll use your video for reference.
I have a much older version of this saw (40's Delta Rockwell according to my research) I recently replaced the bearings on, that one on the arbor side is a MUTHA to get off and back on as well! I put the shaft into the freezer and the bearing into the oven on 250 for about thirty twenty minutes and it was ok getting onto the shaft but had one helluva time gettin the old one off.
Hey just wanted to thank you for taking the time to document your project. I am restoring an 80's Model 10 and was not sure what to do at the spanner wrench stage.
Well, I've got the new bearings ordered and have the saw mostly torn down, except for removing the recessed nut from the arbor behind the pulley. It wants a 7/8ths deep well and wouldn't ya know, with all the ratchets and sockets I have, that ain't one of them, LOL! So, got one of those ordered too and it should be here tomorrow. I'll be adding one of those link belts too as the original belt is, I think, the actual original belt....it's cracking with dry rot and wasn't even aligned straight. I don't know how the adjustment wheels ever did work with all the sawdust caked up inside of it, but it's been cleaned and vacuumed out now. I do like that the stand has wheels in the back to make it easy to move around. Its stand looks different than yours, though the actual saw looks identical. I think someone must have changed the motor in the past as well as mine's motor isn't Rockwell, it's a 1.5hp Dayton.
Thank you, I have this exact saw and had no idea how to adjust it until I saw this video.
Second time watching this one. Love love love! the teaching!
I have a Rockwell 10” that I bought new. I could tell it needed new bearings from the howling noise it made when in use. I got it apart before finding your video but found it very helpful for disassembling and reassembling the spindle itself. Thanks for good videoing and narration. Tom.
Thank you sir... I'm working on a rockwell 10" saw quite similar...very rusted and sitting for decades... Your information really really helps.... Thank you for sharing your knowledge.... From Fiji Island...
This was very helpful. I have a Delta 34-410B, which has an identical configuration inside. I have done a lot of searching and wasn't sure how best to handle the replacement of the arbor bearings. For one thing, the exploded diagrams on parts websites don't seem to account for the 7/8" nut that fits inside that bearing retainer ring/nut. I gave up looking for Delta and searched for Rockwell instead. Your video made all the difference. I had everything apart, and the arbor wasn't moving. I wasn't sure how hard to hit it, and then I saw your demonstration. I hit it a little harder, and it popped right out. I wish mine went back together as easily. My bearings fit tightly, even with the addition of a bit of 3-in-1 oil to help them slide. I used my scroll saw to cut a plug similar to the one you did on the lathe. Not as elegant, but it worked. I haven't put everything back together again, but I'm pretty confident that it's going to work.
Thanks for the video, I've been using it as a guide for my 10" Contractor saw because they seem to be dang near identical. Surprisingly I had two 6203 bearings in my tool chest! 😂
Thank you for this video. Very thorough and methodical. I have a 1950’s Delta Homecraft that I’m fixing up, and everything with the trunion, arbor, and such looks identical. Very helpful.
Quite helpful, just recently picked up a 1980 34-440, so far everything is the same except motor size and not having the the “square” stop bolt for the tilt.
I am still using the one my Dad bought a month after I was born.
Very well executed, thank you!
Finally got the saw back together and nothing will adjust, blade will move up and down about an inch and the tilt won't budge at all. Broke the wheel trying to get it to move. If I adjust the blade to where it stops it locks the blade up so it won't turn either. I'm about disgusted enough to just keep the motor, haul the rest to the county dump and just buy another one.
Edit: 3 days later...Took it back apart and put it back together and now it is adjusting just fine...I have no idea what I did this time that I didn't do the first time but now it's working just like it is supposed to.
WOW! That was amazing. Do you do Shop Calls to Sequoia National Park?
Well, I finally got the arbor shaft out but that one bearing is giving me fits, lol. It will break, and in fact has broke the outer race off, but the inner race is stuck good. I'm going to take it to the bench grinder tomorrow and grind on it till the inner ring has ground through on one side so I can get the !@$@! thing off.
The bearings are readily available and quite cheap.
Hey, this was great. Question: I dont have enough room to center blade with trunnion adjustment. Is there a way to move the arbor flange to the right, If I am looking from the rear? Currently the blade cuts into the red throat plate, when my blade is at 45 degrees. Thanks.
The blade should be about 1 inch from the right edge of the opening in the bed when standing in front of the saw. The trunnions have a limited range. Mostly just to square up the blade. If the blade is off by a lot I suspect something is not in the correct place. If the blade is correct the throat plate may be the issue. Is it stock?
Yes it’s stock, nice and red, the original. I want to move the arbor 1/16 to 3/32 in the left looking from the front. @@black1985vette
I’m using your video to help me replace bearings. Also’ I notice a 1/16 rust void in the middle space. This means that the arbor moved recently towards the pulley side. I’m hoping that the washer holding in the bearing is loose.
I also have this same saw. Would you mind saying what size bearings I should order for it? Hope to have mine looking and operating as well as yours soon :) Would also love to know how that riving knife was attached.
I don't have the number memorized but they are a very common size and available on Amazon. Check the side of the bearing when you remove it. There should be a number on it that can be ordered. Documentation on line for the saw should also specify the bearing number to be used. As a last resort, you can measure ID, OD and thickness and just order by specs from a bearing company.
I have one of these,also has bad bearings. how did you find the bearing part number?
It was marked on the side of the bearing. They are generic not proprietary. You can also look them up by measuring each dimension.
I just bought a Rockwell Mod. 9 at an auction... brand new in the unopened box... dated 1979 for $100.00. Is that a good deal? I have to assemble it tomorrow.
Did it come with the motor? Even without it is a good price for one that does not require rebuild and has all the bits and pieces that come with it. So many times the blade guard is missing or the fence is not right. Did it come with the side extensions?
Hola, tengo una sierra como esta. Dónde podría conseguir partes para este tipo de sierras?
Some parts are available on eBay. Common parts like the bearings can be found on Amazon or hardware suppliers.
Ok, so it looks like I've commented before BUT man, I could use some help.
I need a replacement bearing for a 1940s Walker-Turner 10 inch table saw I'm restoring. This bearing is for where the arbor tilt worm gear attaches to the base. It's marked like this on the outer race:
L 02 SKF C Made in USA
Any thoughts?
Measure the bearing and find one with the same specs. Cant always cross reference a part number.
@@black1985vette yeah I figure this one is too old to cross reference. So, probably need to get some calipers or a micrometer?
Oh, hey another note I thought about your work today and bought a pneumatic die grinder and thought I remembered you had links to wire spindle brushes.
@@ForestWoodworks yes. At Harbor freight.
@@black1985vette so I got a $14 die grinder from HF as well as the nylon cup wheel. But it would bog out once I touched the table saw surface. Do you think that is because of the cost and rating of the die grinder? Maybe I would need a more expensive tool? Unless it's a setting on the set screw. Any thoughts?
@@ForestWoodworks what is your air pressure? That is how much power the tool has available. I run about 75 lbs.
I have a table saw like that one. Are you interested in selling the bracket, blade guard, and splitter or know of someone who has those parts ? Mine is also a Rockwell Model 9 Contractor Saw. My father-in-law gave it me . I would appreciate the help. Thanks
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