New cast acrylic lifeboat window - the first of seven. Expedition lifeboat conversion Ep113 [4K]
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.พ. 2024
- To HELP CHARGE ALAN'S BATTERIES for the journey north, to buy merch, and to support my videos and help them grow in scope and quality here: www.alexhibbert.com/aho
(I forgot my pop filter, so apologies for the plosives)
EPISODE 113
We've long known that Alan has inadequate windows. I've experimented with polycarbonate secondary glazing over the original glass, and haven't been satisfied. So, they are all coming out, are getting bigger, and the hatches are being treated too. I'm going for very thick cast acrylic / Plexiglass / Perspex.
I'll learn from this first window in terms of technique for the rest.
Products mentioned:
10mm cast acrylic sheet with polished edges and factory-machined radiuses.
Arbosil 1096 glazing sealant
Stixall adhesive/sealant
Feel free to ask any questions in the comments!
___
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I just noticed that @ProjectBrupeg just did a video fitting glass windows. I've picked up a few tips for the next panes I do.
A truism of ship building: If it's flat, square or level it was purely by accident.
I like that.
And in the 3rd year Alan said, “let there be light (without condensation or environmental contaminants if possible)”, and he saw that it was good
6:59 I'm really glad to know it isn't just me that thinks that about those trees. Didn't expect you to be on that stretch of the M6.
Having some problems with some windows, i'm following this and the rest of the windows episodes with particular care 👍👍
I watch and try to support several boat building videos. The trouble I find is the size of the T shirts. The problem for us lounge chair or ex sailors is that we have expanded around the waist. 4x and 5x t shirts would aid us in supporting you.
Thanks Alan. I'll see what the manufacturer can manage.
I was on the train to Glasgow in the week and saw the same funny shaped tree growth!
I’m thinking a would be relatively simple to make a dehumidification system using a a small pump, finned tube coil, small fan, and using the cold water outside. Just a thought.
I’ve enjoyed your problem solving skills from the beginning.
Nice one thanks
Just so you know, there are reduced shank drill bits commonly available. Of course the strain on the drill chuck can easily go beyond design limits so you must use plenty of pilot holes. They are a godsend. Remember to turn down the drill speed when using them. The holes they create are ideal for inserting hacksaw blades into.
Ive always been told to use dull bits for drilling acrylics, apparently a sharp bit is more likely to cause cracks as it breaks through. Another little trick is to not crank the chuck up too tight, that way if the bit does bite the chuck will slip, reducing the chance of damaging the workpiece
I knew the former, but the latter is news. Thank you.
@@AlexHibbertOriginalsdrills have a clutch for this very purpose. Keep it on #1. My impact driver has a button which selects a digital version of a clutch, on the lightest setting you can use the impact driver to gently put a self tapper into very thin sheet metal without chewing out the hole. (Milwaukee 18v)
That was a very interesting episode. Are you planning on securing the hatch window with some hardware too? Maybe 4 stainless steel Z-shaped profiles as a "window frame" from the outside? I think you did a good job with the sealant but I for myself wouldn't trust it alone. Dont want the acrylic sheet to go missing in a hard storm.
Yes, some metal braces for sure.
If you're finding the M74 dull, come off at Moffat and take the A701 to Edinburgh. It takes about the same time as the motorway and far better scenery.
I took the A702 a couple of times (when not doing the A1), until tractors and ice happened!
@@AlexHibbertOriginals A701 is a lot better than the A702. After Moffat it's mostly moorland and the odd farm through to Broughton, worst is the log lorries. 100% wind your windows up and lock the doors going through Broughton. Then skip across to the A702 at Romanno Bridge. Way quicker and scenic.
Cheers - not a route google or waze has brought to my attention.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals If you want extra scenic and are not in a hurry, off at Moffat then head up to St Marys Loch, then over to Innerleithen, Peebles and Edinburgh. Almost like the highlands in places.
Cheers
At least we got some grinder action! It'll be interesting to see what you have planned regards the windows. Are you going to put secondary glazing inside?
I'm going to see how we get on with the thick 10mm acrylic. If the condensation is limited to light misting (especially with a surface treatment) I'll leave it. The foam inserts deal with insulation and black-out when not in use.
hm...even though the hatch seem fairly robust I have a hunch that there will be some torsion while opening/closing it. This may break the bond in the long run...but maybe not. We will see. Anyway, awesome project mate!
Indeed. The third stage will be the bolted through aluminium strips. I've used a low modulus inner sealant so it can deal with hatch flex.
@@AlexHibbertOriginalsthank you for using mechanical fastenings as well, it could be disaster to have it delaminate and depart said vessel
Will you use aluminium strips inside as well as outside? That would stiffen things up nicely, especially if the inner ones are a few inches wider than the aperture, though that might be a struggle with the insulation in place!
I'll have an experiment with backing strips vs merely using large washers.
I don't know if they have this service in the UK, but since there is a State aquarium near me, a few of the local Glazier Shops have built custom windows and enclosures for the aquarium and for a few other local businesses and private individuals. I have seen some custom triple paned nitrogen filled windows with frames they have made. I realize that even if they do offer that service local to you, the cost would probably be extremely prohibitive. But you might drop a note and ask for their opinion on how to best seal and secure the new windows.
Sounds beautifully indulgent!
take a bar of soap and rub a little on the inside of the window wipe it off stops fog great.
Perhaps I should use cast acrylic for my next custom side panel for my PC. 🤔
The condensation has absolutely nothing to due with window glass material . OTHER THAN , how the material translates heat / from outside , etc . You need two or three constant solar exhaust fans . Or a central , humidity controlled fan . You don’t need much , but you need it . Condensation is not at all related to windows . It’s just manifesting on the cooler interior surface of the window . Double pane set up would eliminate condensation . Very cool videos and unusual project 👍🏼😘
Cheers, although surely the window glass material is directy related to condensation. Using multiple glazing is, in practice, the addition of vacuum/air between panes of glass or plastic. That air insulation, or void fill/foam should you no longer need to see through, solves condensatio, and represents a change of window material. Acrylic, polycarbonate and glass have different heat conduction/insulation properties, and if you chose exceptionally thick single panes of each, say 50mm for the sake of argument, condensation won't be the same for each test piece. I don't counter your points about ventiliation or multi-panes, but the material is a factor. When I had half the panes glass and half replaced with acrylic, the glass accumulated a lot more water.
_No pane ~ NO {solar} gain!_
I have driven that road many times. I KNOW what you mean about the trees.
Beware of 90º angles at portlights and the like. 1st it's easy for gear and clothing to to get entangled on those corners. On a more "elevated" point, it's a weakness form the point of view of material stress (ok, Alan is not a de Havilland Comet, but still...) and stress fractures
Yes indeed, those corners can be tapered back so there's no 'hook'.
✌🙂✌
No link to the hatch cover art? I mean, I guess you could sell them too.
Oh it's too shocking for that 😂
Any thoughts on rainex
Philosophical ones?
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Rain-x has a anti fog for windows
I was being facetious... Yes I have it, and a few competitors - also a rain-beading version for outside. Will test.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals thought you were really enjoy watching your journey and humor 👍👍
Drilling acrylic can be expensive and dangerous, unless you have the correct drill bit. You need to back off the cutting edges (many people call this "dulling" the drill but it is not) so that it does not try to screw itself in. Here is a simple video, showing the hazard and how to avoid it.
th-cam.com/video/8Ri6poVpQM8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4NzrIIpgvaWZX9I9
I have a specialist 6mm Perspex bit on the way :) Seemed worth a tenner to have one.
CORRECTION PLEASE - It’s not an Angle Grinder … it’s The Magic Tool!
No magic here - merely grinding greatness.
In Australia those aren’t even called angle grinders, they’re called cut off tools in Brupeg territory.
:)
Don't you think you should bolt those windows on? Just adessive is asking for issues.
Certainly - did so last week - epsiode to come.
This seems very unsafe. The door obviously bends easily, such a window should be contained by bolts and gaskets, and stiff frame. Even the stiffness of the door is compromised? Have been watching you since the start, and concerned this will be an unfixable disaster if the glue fails. You have gone beyond the design limits here I think.
In the video you can see the hatch door moving as pressure is applied, but that's not the hatch itself flexing - it's the whole thing moving since I had power tool cables coming out the hatch. The flat part of the hatch is 10mm GRP, which over that area is stiff. The removal of the rectangle will reduce this, but I tried hard to flex the middle of the hatch before inserting the plastic, and couldn't make it flex noticeably.
The third stage of fixing (once I've sourced the metal stock) I mentioned is bolt-through retaining bars - not frames per se, but enough to retain the pane. The initial sealant I used has 50% movement accommodation, so is highly unlikely to be a failure point.
Some boat projects I've seen merely adhere their windows onto steel/alu/GRP, so I'm going rather belt and braces here.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I hear you. But this is the hatch on a lifeboat. Love your work, but my engineer gut feeling flipped over when I watched this. I can see the door failing, and water pouring in. I don't think this is the same as a window in the main wall of a boat. Please do check this with some proper fibreglass boat engineers. Wishing you all the best.
Thanks - it's appreciated. Although, I simply can't see a hatch snapping or collapsing with all that solid GRP (c. equiv to 3+mm of steel), unless there's a huge point impact that would defeat anything else in its place. It's worth saying that the hatches are well above the waterline, and the boat, even if sliced into two halves, is buoyant. The hatch seals are there for the lifeboat not so much to keep water out, but smoke in the event of an oil fire on the sea. There were air cylinders onboard to maintain the internal environment.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals So long as you stay dry, we'll all be happy. If you ever need assistance in the Indian Himalayas, do reach out.
Not sure if you are familiar with how strong and stiff that thickness of fibreglass is but I guess from your comment it is a material you have not worked with it. Anyhoo - the job is not finished yet and the boat is destined for Northern latitudes where the chances of the door failing failing are rather less than Alan being attacked by the Kraken.