E3D’s Rapidchange Revo-lution?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 เม.ย. 2024
- E3D's new RapidChange Revo system breaks with existing standards - and it comes with news highlights and drawbacks. Let's get it tested and find out if it's worth it!
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Read the article to this video here: toms3d.org/2022/02/11/review-...
Models shown:
Articulated Dragon by McGybeer www.myminifactory.com/object/...
Salty McCreedy by Ben Dansie www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
Get the E3D RapidChange Revo from E3D go.toms3d.org/E3DRevo
from Matterhackers go.toms3d.org/MatterRevo
Some of the other stuff shown in the video:
Filaments used: Various Prusaments go.toms3d.org/Prusament and DAS FILAMENT go.toms3d.org/DAS
Aliexpress Nozzles go.toms3d.org/AliNozzles
Slice Engineering Mosquito hotend from Matterhackers go.toms3d.org/bite
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E3D's Revo ecosystem has its ups and downs - will you switch?
Maybe. My trademark infringing extruder and v6 hotend is still working fine for me so I'm not sure it's worth the money and time to upgrade.
Yes, but Whats with the Prusa cables?
Which one would you reccomend for a Prusa Mini?
I really like the idea of the Revo and will consider switching when hardened nozzles are available. I'm currently running a volcano with a hardened 0.4mm nozzle and a copper heat block.
On the other hand, why fix what is not broken? I might switch if/when my volcano starts having issues.
Can vouch for PIA! They're great.
There are people who have a custom end gcode so it retracts the filament out of the Revo after every print. That way you can always just swap nozzles :)
Yeah, I already do that so I can cold swap filaments in between prints.
A simple change once you realize the issue.
Actually I have a large retraction after cooling the filament a bit at the end, so that I can swap filaments with it cold, and clean the area a bit, kind like a cold-pull I guess ?
You can do this whether you have a Revo or not, works great on my rapido and on my dragon hf
@@runklestiltskin_2407 exactly, works with every hotend 😁
@@PeterTPhan I actually don't retract for the purpose of nozzle or filament changes at the end of a print. I am planning to do that though. Just got a Revo installen on my Voron v0.1
The speed of the nozzle change was furthest from my mind. But not having to hot tighten everything is a game changer for me. I hate torquing the hot nozzles to keep them from leaking.
A torque wrench designed for nozzles makes changing nozzles consistent and pretty much idiot-proof.
@@haysoos123 How much are accurate ones? $30ish yeah? That’s more than the price difference between an E3D V6 and an E3D Revo 6. If you’ve got a single machine and obliterate your V6, might as well grab a Revo 6.
The more walled off ecosystem/ closed source-ness of recent things including this is saddening, but it is great to see creators like you keep “carrying the torch”.
With creators like you advocating for you we can keep the flame alive!
Agreed. This is the reason I won't be considering Revo. It's just not going to have the flexibility that an open ecosystem has, and £19 per nozzle is just hilarious, no chance.
As 3D printing gains more popularity, things like this are bound to happen. The best we can do is not purchase these products and speak out against it. This goes against the nature of the 3D printing community and we should not tolerate it tainting this space. Next thing you know we'll have hot ends and extruders that only work with certain filaments or slicers. That's not the world I want
@@CandidProle But we want companies to keep creating new stuff, spending all the time ans money on r&d only to get cloned by aliexpress shops so they can undercut the creator and run with the money. The amount of engineering that went into this is pretty insane and I completely understand why they took out a patent looking at the state of the v6 market
@@MrBoydheeresThe amount of engineering that went into this is not insane and is built off the back of other technologies that already exist. Patents and copyrights do nothing but stifle innovation and artificially raise prices.
To be fair patents never stopped chinese manufacturers. I'm expecting to see clones on aliexpress in a couple of months for quarter the price
I’ll be sticking with V6. The open standards combined with cheaper replacement for nozzles is important.
Same. I got into 3D printing on the promise of open hardware, E3D reversing their 2017 promise "to move more towards fully open source design." ("After all, we're confident that what makes an E3D product truly worthwhile is more than just its schematics." *ahem*). I mean, it's their choice how they want to do business, but this isn't what _I,_ personally, signed up for.
I think the speed of changes is not an actual concern, but the ease is. Not having to deal with having it leak will be an enormous advantage.
So much this! No matter how careful I am, I'm always terrified of either breaking my heatbreak or failing to tighten the nozzle enough to avoid leaks. Doing away with that union is magic.
We have several printers with V6 at work, trying to dig out the hot end after someone printed a 18h petg tennis ball on it without breaking the termistor or heat cartridge cables is a challenge...
This!
Agree 👍 screwing back a nozzle is always a flight on sight an leaves you alone with the question if the nozzle really has contact with the tube screwed from above 😞
This is my biggest issue with the V6 especially when using hardened nozzles.
Hey Tom, thanks for taking the time to review our Revo ecosystem, it's a great informative video! In order to make nozzle changes as quick as possible we recommend removing filament from the nozzle as part of your Slicer's end gcode. This way you won't have to first heat up the nozzle to remove the filament, as this is already done. Thanks, Team E3D
That's a great idea! I'm waiting on mine to arrive, can't wait to convert all of my printers over to the new hot end. I switch between .4mm and .8mm nozzels waaay to often
Patents :(
What's the bore of this heatbreak element though? If it's ~1.95-2.0mm or more, following your recommendation is most likely gonna cause a jam for anyone using Capricorn tubing anywhere near the hotend/collet or extruder. If this is the case, you really should make that advisory caveat clear.
I was thinking it would be cool if they made a special "nozzle break" which could fit standard V6 nozzles. Then you could have the best of both worlds, quick change and the large ecosystem of different and replacable nozzles. Sort of a customisable nozzle break as it were. I wouldn't even mind if it was lower performance and more bulky than the standard nozzlebreaks; and the greater difficulty of hot tightening (although the nozzle may increase the length of the melting zone?), the modularity and cheaper replacable nozzles would be worth it for many people, and make Revo more palletable in the open source community
Also you only need to make one "special" nozzle break rather than all the different ones for the different nozzles. It would give options for higher cost but better ease of use and performance of the standard nozzlebreaks or swappable standard nozzles for advanced or money concious users.
When are you guys going to release hardened nozzles?
Super easy, barely an inconvenience, gotta love Ryan George
as soon as i heard it, i went straight to the comments to see how many others got it
Revo nozzles are tight..
When the characters say the thing, that's tight.
Wow wow wow..... Wow
I have to say, the nozzle being locked down is a major deterrent to buying into the ecosystem.
Also, they may have a very hard time actually defending design patents surrounding this nozzle, as the thread and shape of the "cold" end are functional interfaces. Only the design of the silicon sock may have some merit, but who cares if that end is round or hexagonal...
' design patents ' ' as the thread and shape of the "cold" end are functional interfaces.' Exactly. Amazing how many people do not really understand that design patents fail where the design is a consequence of function, that requires a unique enough solution to get a utility patent.
Design is like a Nike swoosh, it doesn't stop someone else from making a shoe the same size and shape, only in putting the design swoosh on it..
Instead of a circular end make it an octagon, clearly recognizable as a different design..
9:38 Nevermind the relative values here, I would have never guessed that it can take more than "0.5kg" (~5N) of force to extrude PLA at relatively standard settings! Would have guessed maybe 50-100g, a Bowden setup being able to deliver >1kg of force along a PTFE tube feels really surprising and counterintuitive
14:04 Might be nice to link that video in the description
17:54 "quick geometric approximation" *overlays graph of total confirmed covid cases* xD Out of all the ways to do extrapolation badly, this is the best worst
This translates to my experiece when using shitty heater blocks. Why cheap printers with weak extruders cause problems. Investment in a decent copper block and tuning temps is the only way to go.
A 1A pancake motor in a BMG or similar extruder can absolutely destroy bowden tubes. Even the short length in a direct drive.
Sensible tuning is work out the peak flow from die stress (when your prints warp like crazy, print a vase mode test with lots of straight lines and smooth curves and crank the speed up until it screws itself up into a ball), and then drop extruder current so you can achieve that flow but not much more.
If you have some kind of MMU, you might be able to add some custom gcode to up the stepper current during a filament change, as PrusaSlicer style ramming is quite violent.
Long time viewer, first time commenter:
Thomas thank you so much for mentioning Color Vision Deficiency in this review. I'm a strong deutan and these issues really affect me but I never hear them discussed. Well done!
Paused the video at 5:39 to mention this, now back to watching.
9:20 To those saying he should be using load cells, many modern digital kitchen scales use load cells... This way, Tom doesn't have to rig up an amp and a micro to figure out the applied force.
Just being able to not have to heat tighten to prevent leaks is enough for me to want one.
Reading this as I'm waiting for round 3 of fighting a Volcano nozzle leak. Think the next thing I'll need to warm up is my debit card...
@@hostinggeek I did buy one and its been good ... i dont have to many prints with it but the few ive done has been fine. Not had to "hot swap" a nozzle yet...
E3D is the Apple of manufacturers. I'm glad you called them out on that.
whoaaa new vid from Thomas. Love you're videos dude. they're always full of great content that even I, who don't really keep up with the latest, find helpful and often times also entertaining
Excellent analysis, always appreciate how deep you dive into the technical details!
Great in depth vid Tom!! Had to be tons of prep time for this one that we never see. Very Well Done!!
Thank you for your honest review. As someone relatively new to the Prusa Mk3S+, I am fine with the stock extruder. Also thanks for the tip about the 0.6 nozzle. I will definitely try that!
Great Test Thomas, creative approach to how you done it. My Revo present toself is on the way :-)
Following up on this even though I've already commented - you mentioned 0.6mm nozzles being able to do basically everything you need toward the end of this video. Having freedom to quickly choose between slicer profiles and nozzles (I made a 2 minute nozzle swap gcode routine that I run each time), I've found I'm basically entirely swapped over to 0.6mm for my parts these days. If I'm doing anything that requires tight tolerances, I'll drop to 0.4, and if I'm in a rush it's great to have 0.8 at the ready, but for the random items I tend to need, 0.6 has been fantastic and has saved me hours. Great call!
You always bring a new way of thinking about things. Thanks Tom!
I've read that Dragon/Mosquito heatbreaks have issues with abrasive filaments. Apparently the thin connecting tube likes to wear out and break after some time. I wonder what the nozzle/heatbreak of Revo will look like in it's hardened steel version. If thin metal tube will be the same as in brass version it might face the same issue as Dragon - just in Revo case it will fall down along with heater.
The V6 heatbreak can wear out at the neck also causing the same failure.
The heater block is clipped on with the spring. It won't fall down if the heatbreak fails.
The last thing I would do is moving from an open design to a closed one.
Quick nozzle swapping isn't anywhere on my priority list as I made my hotends swappable; that takes less time than just unscrewing a revo nozzle and can be done without burning your hands even when the hotend is hot.
Thank you very much for the awesome review, learned a lot and your final conclusion rings true for myself too, the 0.6 CHT nozzle from Bondtech will be good enough for 99% of my prints.
Thanks for the thorough review. I look forward to using the Revo system eventually - but I’m not in a big hurry. For me, it is less about the reduced _time_ to change nozzles, but instead the _ease_ of changing nozzles. No more risk of tearing out tiny thermistor wires. No more burning of fingers. No more HEATER ERROR when you grab the heat block with pliers and it sucks the heat out, and the heater can’t keep up. No more leaks because I didn’t torque it enough since I was afraid of bending the heatbreak, etc. I can imagine even changing nozzles during a single print - going to 0.20 nozzle to get fine text to show up properly at the top of a print, for example.
Have you tried a dedicated nozzle torque wrench? They are extremely inexpensive.
@@saf3ty3rd Yep. I have one. It helps, and of course, practice makes it easier over time. But -- still more involved than I'd like.
@@saf3ty3rd They are, but still, using a torque wrench and all risks of damage, compared to just hand tightening a nozzle is day and night.
I want to make my own version of this out of a tianglelabs chc pro with CNC Stephan's custom volcano cht nozzle. Im drooling over the possibilities of the copper wires in the filament path also heating up, transferring even more heat into the filament 😍
I was thinking the same. What would be cool is a "mixing nozzle" like geometry used on epoxy tubes that is designed specifically so that every bit of what flows through makes maximum contact.
Such a nice and quality review. Thank you!!
Excellent review!
also, i really liked the discussion about the implications of the patent. Very nicely done, without imposing an opinion, just raising questions.
And as your conclusion said, perhaps i just need to slap a 0.6 nozzle to my MK2.5 to have faster prints and be happy :)
If you have the Prusa eject filament after each print then there's less of an issue with quick change. Anybody with an MMU2 will have this happen automatically for them, so it really is quick change.
Dang you should have included a clip of you creating those cutouts. They look insanely cool.
Great video as per usual, just was hoping for one piece of data to further confirm the extrusion force. Did you do any flow calibration or testing between the nozzles? Anything to say that both 0.4mm nozzles are within tolerance to prevent any skew in the data due to manufacturing error?
Es ist echt krass, ich glaube jeder Deutscher hat einen Deutschen-Radar, mit dem er erkennt, dass ihm gegenüber auch ein Deutscher sitzt. Klar, bei dem Namen ist es nicht allzu schwer, aber trotzdem. Respekt dafür, dass du so flüssig und akzentfrei englisch sprechen kannst und danke für den guten Content!
"akzentfrei" oh komm jetzt wie tief in den Arshc willst du ihn denn noch kriechen.
i been waiting for this video! thanks Thomas!
- I bet it's gonna be difficult to replace the original V6 for the new Revo.
- Actually, super easy, barely an inconvenience.
I love your imagination coming up with these test procedures!
Love 4K, it is even possible to see a grooves in rod at X axis.
Thanks for your review, I was considering the Revo , although I am now going to hold off getting it, V6 is good enough for me at the moment.
@thomassanladerer thank you sir for all the great videos you produce. I am fairly new to actually printing and not just research. Your videos have fast become my goto for the information I seek. It seems you just answer the questions I have better than anyone else. Thanks
I am watching with interest. I have a couple of questions for you. The first is whether there are any problems with chambered printing, and the second is durability. What do you think?
The problem with inserted Filament at 3:40 is really interesting, because I've not thought of that problem due to the MMU2 removing Filament anyway
To avoid swapping nozzles I always had “cold swap” V6 dangling on the side preloaded with 2nd most common nozzle size I use. Might seem pricey but we’ll worth it.
I do this, I have 3 or 4 voron (afterburner/stealthburner/ABBN) toolheads between two printers, a 0.4 with a bimetallic heatbreak, a high temp capable 0.4, a 0.6 CHT in a V6 clone with a genuine heatbreak, and a spare/experimental clone v6
Great insight on the nozzle-swap. Would it be possible to just cut the filament just above the extruder and then remove the nozzle and that part of the filament, all without heating it up (possibly holding some lever on the extruder to allow the filament to turn)?
How is the heat-break attached to the nozzle and the cold-end threads? Swaged, brazed, or solderd?
I couldn't tell by the closeup of the sectioned hot end. Did you do that sectioning?
I'd love to see more dimensional detail of the assembly.
Great review. What cooling duct are you using 👀?
Revo ticks a lot of boxes for things that are cool and make life easier, but at the same time, none of the pros is worth switching over for me. It will be interesting to see if printer manufacturers will use this system.
Then there is me with my cheap $95 RepRapGuru i3 printer I snagged off eBay brand new in box. I must have somewhat lucked out as after tweaking a few things it works great! Not fast but consistent prints in PLA & PLA+. I have only changed my nozzle & heater block with a micro-swiss one. But thanks for the great in-depth video.
Great video. Very useful information! Mahalo for sharing! : )
great review! what fan shroud are you using on your Mk3s?
I would be interested to see how the micro works on the mini. Will it banish the clog issues and improve flow performance for faster printing.
Nice sectioning work Tom! Not everyone understands to pot parts to get great cross sections.
And to degas the resin properly! Looked great. I want some as desk toys.
I've already saw that test setup. Is it by chance the same Extrusion Force Testing Machine of @Vector3D?
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Like your flow test resistance method !
what are your thoughts on Revo vs CHT ?
Great look at this Tom. So the way I am seeing it is "If you are in the market for a new/replacement hot-end, then Revo is a good way to go- If there is nothing wrong with your existing hot-end, maybe wait for the eco-system to develop a bit more before jumping onboard."
Will be interesting to see how Prusa's Nextruder compares to this. Was kind of hoping to see the Revo system implemented in the XL.
I genuinly love your conclusion!
I think I will get one for my Prusa Mini, the lower extrusion force sounds like a win for the Bowden setup it has and jumping from printing miniatures and models to large simple designs, jumping from 0.25 to 0.6 sounds great to me. Just have to wait for my preferred NA supplier to get them back in stock. In firearms there is a patented standard called M-Lock that has been widely adopted and IIRC its licensed freely as long as the manufacturer is able to keep to the quality requirements. Early days for the Revo so we will have to wait and see how things shake out.
Those cutaways are so cool!
HI thomas. You have any idea why the thread is so long on the Revo? I mean, it looks it takes ages to screw it in... btw, I agree that the swap is not that fast due to the fixation of the filament to the nozzle. Although they say it can ben swapped when cold...
I have broken the wires on my v6 heater cartridge several times and just dont change nozzles anymore. I am very excited for the ease of use aspect of it.
Thomas making a Ryan George reference. That is two great tastes that taste great together, together again for the first time. Screen Pitch quotes are tight.
As usual, incredibly thorough and very interesting video. I’m gonna try this in my Voron!
Excellent review. Love the focus on real-world practicality. I would love to see e3d eventually offer first-party cooling duct reference designs for all three (Hermera, Micro and Groovemount) packages. It's so hard to find good ducts on thingiverse etc, and its really not easy to design one yourself either. Having a standard, first-party, reference design from e3d with convenient nozzle access and verifiably engineered fluid dynamics would be hugely helpful.
Yes, that and a wire guide! Like, cut a channel in the hemera somewhere to route my wires from the hot end or a tab on the heat sink I can attach them to.
I've been using 0.6 as standard for over a year. There's practically nothing I can do with a .4 that the .6 can't do just as nicely and faster. I installed it for some big parts and never took it out, just dialed down width and height when I needed the extra detail, which is surprisingly rare.
how much does it actually differ in time? just curious
Would you get better performance if you used thermal paste like the one Tech Ingredients made to fill up the gaps in the threads?
I have pre ordered it and the main reason for me was the ability to change nozzles without worrying about creating a choke, a gap thAt creates a blockage. Perhaps I am being foolish but every time I end up changing something on the hotend, apart from heater and thermistor I’ve had problems with chokes or partial chokes. I thought perhaps wrongly that this would stop that? Am I wrong? I often am but it seemed to me that not having to torque it down was worth having.
Anyway I have bought it now and will see how it goes.
The extra cost does not really bother me as I do not print with very abrasive filaments.
One question about marlin. I assume you have to modify the thermistor option?
Hey, I really like the music in the opening. What song is it? I can't seem to find it.
Would this be compatible with an anycubic vyper?
As i believe we also use the e3d volcano?
"Trademark infringing..." LOL. I love your videos Tom.
Thanks for all your work.
Thomas, what about us that use a titanium heatbreak and hotter stuff on the hemera now. like very high temps, do they have an option for super high prints, such as poly carb or peek very high materials, or like the nozzle X style and revo combined?
Just woke up today to a huge blob of plastic around my V6... thermistor cables broken and so on. Not first time but this time I didnt have spare thermistor on hand. Decided to order Revo, I hope it really is more robust and maybe now I finally try 0.6 nozzle :) Thanks for your review.
I'd be interested in seeing a video on the Trianglelab CHC ceramic heater cores that are compatible with the V6 ecosystem. I just got one, but it'll be a while until it gets here and I get to play with it.
Do you have a link to the fan shroud you have there on your Mk3? I have a similar one but yours looks better..
16:50 - Good to see safety first, Tom. 😎👍
I believe a new hotend might be the fix to resurrect my 3D printer. And these showed up on your channel a while ago, so I thought about going with E3D for getting something good. Will wait for your judgement tho - so it being a long and in depth video is always great.
This looks like a fun upgrade. I think the only snafu on my uses is making sure I re-adjust the BL Touch distance to the nozzle and adjust the z offset again
Thanks for all the info. For me, the main advantage would be that I can quickly change between .4 and .8 mm nozzles, which I do a lot actually. But at 20 bucks a pop, I can have that with CHT nozzles and still be free to use all of the standard V6 stuff.
I think I'm the most excited for the better heat output, and slapping one in my Voron.
One of the great things about 3D printers, compare to other maker devices, is the open nature. Supporting a proprietary replacement of a well working open product would make little sense for me. Thank you for laying out the advantages and disadvantages.
This is the first product I've ever pre ordered in my life and I'm stoked for it! I'm contemplating making a compact portable printer that I can take places and print parts on the spot. The variation of nozzle sizes and future hardened versions will make it easier to take what I need and have a versatile machine.
Loved the video and the Screen Rants reference!
I’ve gotten into 3d printing this past year…… i had seen this new revo…… and was on the fence….. I never actually change too many nozzel sizes…. So not the most important thing for me right now. Thank you for the input
Hallo Thomas! Danke für den Überblick über das neue E3D System.
Da du das Revo Hozzle (or Nearbreak) einmal durchgeschnitten hast wirst du mir hoffentlich sagen können wie groß der innere Durchmesser ist.
Ich drucke in Farbe mit der Palette 3 Pro von Mosaic. Mit PETG und einem Dragon Hotend gab es extreme Probleme weil der innere Durchmesser der Dragon Heartbreak so klein war, dass bei jedem Farbsplit das Filament cloggte. Es Blieb mir nichts anderes übrig als zurück zum vom V6 Hotend zu gehen-
E3D hatte meine Frage mit „2mm“ beantwortet, doch vertraue ich dir da eher als einem Supportmitarbeiter des Herstellers.
VG!
Love your work ‼️👍😊
Because I use the mmu2s the filament is always unloaded after a print. However a touch of custom end gcode is a super easy solution.
I just ordered my Revo with all 4 nozzles. I'm rather excited.
there are quite some parts i modelled under the assumption of a 0.4 mm Nozzle so with 0.85 mm wall thickness
Still with modern Hotends printing 0.85 with a 0.6mm nozzle should be ok.
Strange enough - i have seen nozzlebreaks over 5 years ago on aliexpress (not well made, with a very poor heatbreak).
I am really happy you spoke about the growing number of patents!
As of swapping nozzlebrakes as mentioned prior long retract at the end.gcode or you could potentially snap filament at the top of heatsink and pull it through.
When is a hardened steel or a nozzle X equivalent going to be available?
I think gaining a reduction of extrusion force is important as high force plus compliance, even with direct extruders gives rise to oozing and more visible z seams.
Thanks for the in-depth testing. I am seeing lots of people reporting clogging problems with the Revo Micro when used on the Prusa Mini with the E3D small fan and PLA. I believe it is due to the firmware PWM reduction of fan speed combined with the small E3D fan resulting in heat creep. E3D is telling people to make fan changes if they think that is a problem, which seems a little dodgy. If you have the chance, please test the performance of the Revo Micro and its apparent susceptibility to heat creep. Reports also claim that the problem is solved by using a non-E3D carriage modification that allows use of the stock fan which moves much more air. It is also possible to tie the E3D fan directly to ground, avoiding the PWM regulation, but it is said to be quite noisy.
What holds me back on getting into the Revo is the fact that Prusa announced something similar yet different. I'm still wondering whether it will be adopted by other vendors or whether it will become something that is only sold by E3D.
The biggest Chang I got was the overhangs. I used this for like 8 month now and the overhangs are so much better then on genuine v6 nozzles.
Finally some normal and objective talk about that hype hotend... I totally see beneficial use over V6 or V6 clones but me, who uses Mosquito... nah... but still... nice video m8! Kudos!
I'd have loved to hear the vol flow rate you're getting from Revo. I'm wondering how it compares to a by with a CHT nozzle or compact highflow hotend like mosquito or phaetus dragon.
Depends on how hard your extruder is able to push without slipping - the graphs to deduct flowrate from that are all included in the video.
It doesn't compare.
@@MadeWithLayers yep, I can do some maths and guess, but my extruders can inflate a PTFE tube like a balloon of there's a blockage, and I get die shrink issues well before the extruder skips.
Did you ever run the same extrusion-force tests for Mosquito hotends (or even a chinese "Dragonfly" clone)? I´d love to see how they compare to Revo/V6 Hotends. Maybe i´ve missed a past video?
part of me is somewhat sad that a lot of the cool tech are not open source now
(a lot of high end printer design is open source, but I'm talking more about part/part designs)
at the same time i kind of also see why they would need to do it, after all, you can't really get paid via exposure, being the grandfather of all major 3D printer hotend is one thing, making profit is another, can't really fight mass scale production game when you also need to do RnD and actually want to do QC
but i think there's still the idea though, of a more elegant hotend system that are not just slapping parts to a block of aluminum, if someone else would make a new standard to move on from v6, that'd be cool but not really having my hopes up
Super easy? Barely an inconvinience? I see you are a man of culture, Thomas! :D
i ordered one mostly cos i was tired of the wires on my thermistor on my mk3 constantly catching and wearing giving me min temp errors. i could just fix with a whole new thermistor and cable run but tbh i feel 4 years of service and the v6 has earnt retirement to the backup box. i do sometimes want to just print chonky stuff or try a spiral with a thicker wall or print some tiny stuff but i dont because its more faff that risks breaking cables when changing nozzles
As a novice would i need to do anything software related to install the revo on y prusa mk3s or is it a simple fit and continue using prusaslicer as i have always done?
Late answer: But to install the revo it is mostly a case of fitting the hotend and then running your standard Z-calibration and PID Tuning. Once tuned you don't have to do anything special in the software.
It used to be that for the Prusa Mini+ you had to use custom gcode in the slicer cause of a firmware thing, but that has been resolved.
What filament is the dragon made of? Looks amazing.
Prusament Premium PLA Mystic Green
www.prusa3d.com/category/prusament/#a_aid=toms3DP&a_bid=1ab9a933
schönes Video, gute Infos! Ja ich hab gleich zur Vorbestellung mein Set geordert und ärger mich etwas, dass nun eine Voron Version noch kommen soll - aber das versuche ich einfach mal zu ignorieren. Ich würde mich jedenfalls schon mal freuen überhaupt das Set bald zu bekommen.