When i did my last fiberglass rocket i put balsa wood on the motor tube on each side of the fin and made channel so i could fill them with epoxy and then put the fun in. i havent flown it yet i hope it works
If you're planning on flying extremely fast and you're not confident on your bonding skills, it doesn't hurt. I did tip to tip carbon on my 4.5" Arcas with a 98mm mount, though it wasn't entirely necessary. This rocket could likely handle an N1000 or something along those lines. I'm not sure I'd trust something like an N5600 in it, though
Do you always drill the holes alongside the fin slots to inject epoxy? And 4 holes each side? Maybe I missed why you do that. I've seen other people's videos where they use a tube attached to the injector and inject from back and then slip fit rear motor ring on to hold center. Then they can check internal fillets once dry. Side note, what is a good level 1 high power rocket for cert flight? LOC-IV is what I'm looking at or possibly the Apogee Zephyr. I'm ok with cardboard tube for first high power, no electronics except maybe a Jolly Logic altimeter. Hoping to find local shop that I can buy motors or grains, at least for first one.
The LOC IV is a fantastic level 1 and even level 2 kit. Anything 4" In the LOC range is solid. As far as injection fillets, I find that this is the least messy and easiest controlled way to do it. Plus, it allows you to use both the front and rear centering rings as a dam for your internal fillets. If you watch my V2 video, I used the silicone hose method with the syringe and, while it works fine, fin slot holes have always worked out way better for me!
@@BrianKelsay The Zephyr is really popular for L1 flights right now. It's really similar to LOC kits. If you're interested in going to composite, the Wildman Punisher 3 is a great rocket that can fly I through L. It's one of my favorite rockets I have.
@Roberto Vidal Garcia Thanks. I was already looking at that one. Apogee seems to be sold out right now and some places are sold out of the LOC-IV. I like both, but I kinda want the Zephyr because its bigger and can take up to a J motor. There are a lot of extra little touches and tons of good info on Apogee site and support videos.
Those dang couplers always get stuck in the nose cone during shipping, Tim should change the way he packs em. Although to be fair I've also gotten kits from him with the coupler over the top of the nose cone, which avoids the issue. Its just not consistent
@@RocketVlogs ahh, so you caused the problem! lol. Yeah when you dry fit em together before washing them, they can get suck. Doesn't seem to be an issue after washing the dust off though.
@@FerretyWeasel Interestingly enough this nosecone in particular had some sort of production artifacts that took a good 20 minutes of sanding or so with 80 grit to flatten out inside it. Never seen it before, but now I know to look.
When i did my last fiberglass rocket i put balsa wood on the motor tube on each side of the fin and made channel so i could fill them with epoxy and then put the fun in. i havent flown it yet i hope it works
Love being able to see build techniques for high power before jumping in.
Would you ever see a need to do a tip to tip when you have both internal and external fillets on a fiberglass kit?
If you're planning on flying extremely fast and you're not confident on your bonding skills, it doesn't hurt. I did tip to tip carbon on my 4.5" Arcas with a 98mm mount, though it wasn't entirely necessary.
This rocket could likely handle an N1000 or something along those lines. I'm not sure I'd trust something like an N5600 in it, though
Do you always drill the holes alongside the fin slots to inject epoxy? And 4 holes each side? Maybe I missed why you do that. I've seen other people's videos where they use a tube attached to the injector and inject from back and then slip fit rear motor ring on to hold center. Then they can check internal fillets once dry.
Side note, what is a good level 1 high power rocket for cert flight? LOC-IV is what I'm looking at or possibly the Apogee Zephyr. I'm ok with cardboard tube for first high power, no electronics except maybe a Jolly Logic altimeter. Hoping to find local shop that I can buy motors or grains, at least for first one.
The LOC IV is a fantastic level 1 and even level 2 kit. Anything 4" In the LOC range is solid.
As far as injection fillets, I find that this is the least messy and easiest controlled way to do it. Plus, it allows you to use both the front and rear centering rings as a dam for your internal fillets. If you watch my V2 video, I used the silicone hose method with the syringe and, while it works fine, fin slot holes have always worked out way better for me!
@@RocketVlogs What are some other Level 1 rockets I should look at?
Zephyr is out of stock BTW. LOC IV is still in the running.
@@BrianKelsay The Zephyr is really popular for L1 flights right now. It's really similar to LOC kits.
If you're interested in going to composite, the Wildman Punisher 3 is a great rocket that can fly I through L. It's one of my favorite rockets I have.
@Roberto Vidal Garcia Thanks. I was already looking at that one. Apogee seems to be sold out right now and some places are sold out of the LOC-IV. I like both, but I kinda want the Zephyr because its bigger and can take up to a J motor. There are a lot of extra little touches and tons of good info on Apogee site and support videos.
Badass rocket im building a 8ft irish i hope it wil be ready for kloudbusters in the spring thanks for the video
Curious is that a MadCow Black Brant in the background?
Yep! It's my dad's.
Love the shirt!!
Those dang couplers always get stuck in the nose cone during shipping, Tim should change the way he packs em. Although to be fair I've also gotten kits from him with the coupler over the top of the nose cone, which avoids the issue. Its just not consistent
In Tim's defense, I put the coupler in the nosecone during the unboxing video, haha. It had no trouble going in, it just wanted to stay
@@RocketVlogs ahh, so you caused the problem! lol. Yeah when you dry fit em together before washing them, they can get suck. Doesn't seem to be an issue after washing the dust off though.
@@FerretyWeasel Interestingly enough this nosecone in particular had some sort of production artifacts that took a good 20 minutes of sanding or so with 80 grit to flatten out inside it. Never seen it before, but now I know to look.
Ah... someone else uses my drill holes in the BT fillet technique ;)