Soooooo looking forward to hearing this thing fire up. I assumed you’re going to fire it with a single known good carb and then switch to the dual quad? 👍🏼
@@hutchhiperf agreed. Would be a good idea to stay conservative with the timing for initial fire-up as well. In case you didn’t get my message from a few months ago, I’m back in the Olds game…finally! Landed an 84’ Hurst/Olds last August. Let the fun (and nine building) begin. 👍🏼
After some research I decided to go with the BR30. There are other Break-In oils to choose from that will provide for proper break-in. After break-in, you could go to any quality synthetic oil and be fine. I'm going to use Driven HR6 Synthetic 10W-40.
Don't mind at all. pacificgbody.com/collections/oldsmobile-serpentine-adapter-brackets/products/oldsmobile-big-block-serpentine-adapter-kit The GM brackets came from a donor 93 S-10
Yes. Olds have an oil fill to the side of the timing chain area. They're tricky sometimes because you can't fill them too fast or it'll overflow everywhere.
I'm leaning toward the older BB Covers, but I can't say for sure until the engine is in and I see how much room I have between the cover and the A/C box.
Here is what worked for me on my 71-442 A body with A/C. I used a 5/16 gasket with my notched factory valve covers. It cleared all the moving parts underneath. I was able to use all my factory pully brackets. It cleared the ac box and the power brake booster.
I also made a heat deflector plate UNDERNEATH the ac box. The header tube on pass side runs close to the underside of box. If not, the heat off the header will melt the fiberglass. Good luck. (This worked for me)
Makes me want to get mine on road . Last inspected 93. With only coming out for weddings
DO IT!!!
You don't know when you'll need it but you will
Thank you for sharing your experience and taking the time to do so.
Thank you. That means a lot to me.
Soooooo looking forward to hearing this thing fire up. I assumed you’re going to fire it with a single known good carb and then switch to the dual quad? 👍🏼
Nope. Straight to Dual Quad.
@@hutchhiperf 😲 Risky…but I like it. 👍🏼
@@jayambry510 It's a Hyd Roller so as long as my air fuel ratio isn't fat it should be fine. I plan to have an AFR Gauge to help with that.
@@hutchhiperf agreed. Would be a good idea to stay conservative with the timing for initial fire-up as well.
In case you didn’t get my message from a few months ago, I’m back in the Olds game…finally! Landed an 84’ Hurst/Olds last August. Let the fun (and nine building) begin. 👍🏼
Were there any other oils you would consider for a break-in?
Since I is a roller cammed engine, will you move to an off-the-shelf lubrication?
After some research I decided to go with the BR30. There are other Break-In oils to choose from that will provide for proper break-in.
After break-in, you could go to any quality synthetic oil and be fine. I'm going to use Driven HR6 Synthetic 10W-40.
If you don't mind me asking where did you get your serpentine belt system.
Don't mind at all. pacificgbody.com/collections/oldsmobile-serpentine-adapter-brackets/products/oldsmobile-big-block-serpentine-adapter-kit
The GM brackets came from a donor 93 S-10
Is the tube in the front where you fill oil?
Yes. Olds have an oil fill to the side of the timing chain area. They're tricky sometimes because you can't fill them too fast or it'll overflow everywhere.
Where did u get belt set up from ???
Check these videos:
th-cam.com/video/PlZd33-1ibE/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/0zQYG9kzRO8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/DL8NVf6-2m0/w-d-xo.html
What valve covers did you go with?
I'm leaning toward the older BB Covers, but I can't say for sure until the engine is in and I see how much room I have between the cover and the A/C box.
Here is what worked for me on my 71-442 A body with A/C. I used a 5/16 gasket with my notched factory valve covers. It cleared all the moving parts underneath. I was able to use all my factory pully brackets. It cleared the ac box and the power brake booster.
I also made a heat deflector plate UNDERNEATH the ac box. The header tube on pass side runs close to the underside of box. If not, the heat off the header will melt the fiberglass. Good luck.
(This worked for me)