How To Install The Subfloor For A Tiny House | Tiny House Build
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 เม.ย. 2022
- #tinyhouse #tinyhousesubfloor #tinyhousebuild
In this video I walk you through the steps to install the aluminum flashing (aka belly pan) and the subfloor for a tiny house on wheels. In addition, I show you how to install the insulation below the subfloor.
// MATERIALS
3 rolls aluminum flashing 20" x 50'
Hillman #8 x 3/4" Socket Drive Self Tapping Sheet Metal Screws
(3 packs) Owens Corning R-13 Fiberglass Batt Insulation 15" W x 93" L
(9) R-6.5 1" x 4 x 8' Rigid Foam Board Insulation
Loctite PL400 Subfloor Adhesive (Wood to Metal)
(9) 23/32" x 4' x 8' Tongue and Groove OSB Subfloor
Power Pro #10 1 1/2" Multi Material Screws
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Some Tiny House trailer models have a perimeter flange where the exterior walls are anchored and supported. However, a perimeter flange has the potential to facilitate thermal bridging since an uninsulated corner is formed where the subfloor and exterior walls meet. This vulnerability causes condensation to form inside the living space. In order to maintain a consistent insulated envelope a Tiny House will require a trailer with a full width subfloor, built within the trailer frame, that extends out to the space usually occupied by the vulnerable perimeter flange; eliminating any uninsulated corners.A trailer with a full width subfloor is preferred to eliminate non insulated corners. Trailers with uninsulated perimeter flanges or outriggers maybe susceptible to thermal bridging between the corners where the perimeter walls and subfloor meet with the potential to form condensation near the inside corner the Tiny House floor.
What a good video. I know you were very satisfied with the work done so far. I can’t wait to see the final reveal. If you can just do the updates on how much you’re spending on materials. Thanks 😊
Sweet. Finally found it. Building my own tiny right now and was on the fence as to which insulation to use for the subfloor of my trailer as well as what flashing material to use on the bottom of the trailer. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
As a side note, I would also use some large diameter washers together with those self tapping screws for attaching the aluminium flashing and preventing it from being torn in the areas around heads of the screws.
I bet you'll make sure they install the belly pan at the factory next time. LOL It's fun to watch the progress!
Yeah absolutely! Whatever the cost...it's worth it. Took me 3 days between the rain just to install it.
A question: I will build the tiny for cold weather and every video i saw put in a vapor barrier underneath and also, wood slats under the plywood. why don't you do that? (insulation will be R-30) for Canada. thanks!
That's exactly the reason. It's doesn't get that cold here. So an R-20 floor is sufficient. Also I asked NOAH if a vapor barrier is necessary and they said no. Looking back it would probably be cheap insurance. Builders choice however.
Any way to cut that foam without it spreading worldwide I wonder?
I suppose I could have cut it in my shop with a vacuum. It was pretty messy.
Is there any overlap on the edges of the steel flashing? Also, if you were to add a water vapor barrier, where would it layer in to the process?
Yes underneath the flashing does overlap by about an inch. My orders of new trailers will come pre installed with the belly pan flashing. That was too much of a pain in the butt to install it myself.
The vapor barrier would go between the insulation and the OSB subfloor. It was optional this time but I will add it on future builds.
Is it better to use rockwool insulation or spray foam insulation at this stage?
In my opinion spray foam would be preferred because you can close so many gaps. But the method that I used was approved by NOAH.
I ended up with an r value of r19 which meets subfloor requirements for my area.
Did you take the seams on top and bottom?
I zip taped the aluminum belly pan and that was it.
Thermal bridging not addressed here, are you concerned about condensation issues?
I was at first and considered putting down a vapor barrier but before I did anything I consulted an inspector at NOAH, who is certifying this build, and they said it is not necessary. However I feel it is added insurance and my future builds will have it.
There has to be an easier option