what a great video sending off for some copper sulfate today already have loads of old carbon brushes and a fine saw so cant wait to get busy making spare brushes...thanks for doing the video
I noticed your video because it was about motor brushes.. I rebuild auto starters for old (obsolete) cars as there is a push for not having parts for them any more. The idea of copper plating the brush material is Very interesting! Yes, the scale is different, your issues are getting the camera to focus and such, mine are with generated heat melting solder and the lack of knowledge. Generic brushes are available and can be ground down, but the main problem has been getting the leads to stick. I did rc car racing for a while, rewinding the motors but found the solder holding the winding to the commutator would melt during a run and the windings would "explode" all over the inside of the motor. The answer was silver solder alloyed to melt as low as possible. Auto brushes contain silver and other materials to make them last a lot longer than regular brushes used in drills and the like due to the amp loads they work under. I'm going to experiment! Nice work, great presentation!!
Thanks for looking. It's interesting to hear about your work with starters. I'm just rebuilding a Fordson Major starter from the late fifties. The brushes have a wire embedded but work is required to change them. It sounds like your RC car motors got really hot to melt that solder. Thanks for taking the time to pass on the information. All the best to you
Thank you Mr Snooze. That was a terrific video and it is great to see you back again. This is really the sort of 'can do' video that I enjoy most and I am grateful for the knowledge that you are prepared to share. Two things to offer from my own limited experience. I have manufactured dublo type brushes using the graphite found in the flat pencils that carpenters use and I now test my XO3/4 type brushes for continuity using my multimeter after finding a faulty, non conducting one supplied as a replacement. Cheers from Western Australia.
It's interesting to hear about your own brushes, are these for the vertical motor? if so have you rounded them up? It's always good to know what other people have made, Thanks for passing this info on. All the best to you
As far as I can remember, it was in a two rail Dublo Barnstable so that would be a horizontal ringfield motor and yes, after removing the graphite 'lead' from the pencil, I used a file and then fine sandpaper to shape the replacement bush. Regards. Jim@@MrSnooze
Oh welcome back. What an informative video and the result is excellent. Now I know why replacement brushes are copper coloured. Brilliant. I have saved this video to one of my libraries and will be sure to refer to it in future. By the way, I fitted the ball race bearing to the motor from my 08 shunter and it runs as smooth as silk. It wasn't anywhere near as difficult as I was anticipating and I am pleased with the result. 😊
It's good to hear you have made your motor better with a ball race, I assume it's in the rear bearing, I've found sometimes this is the only one that wants upgrading. Thanks for looking in at this video, all the best to you
Great video. May I suggest (as an electronics eng of over 30 years), ditch the lead free solder, and get proper leaded solder, ideally multicore. You will be amazed at how much better your joints are.
That is a great suggestion, I just wish I could find the large box of Ersin Multicore solder I have in ' a safe place ' I have actually been searching for it for many years. Thanks for looking in at the channel again, all the best to you
@MrSnooze We only used Ersin on the production line. Am impressed with your copper plating rig and how successful it is. May I suggest adding an ammeter, because the current is what matters as I'm sure you know. Also self gripping fine tweezers either side of the carbon brush would reduce current and hence copper flow to your clip. Kindest regards Gary
@@MrSnooze interestingly, it's not long since resoldering a broken brush was an option in a X.05 motor. This option of being able to make your own solderable carbon brush pad is such a great idea. Thank you.
Great video! I had often wondered about this as the replacement brushes available online seem to be less carbon internally, more of a mix of impurities that i expect would wear the commutator. Will be good to see how much life you get out of yours. Great to be able to do this especially for brushes on rocket and that kind of rarer motor. Once again lovely to see it work out well. Regards Will
My worn out brush arms have a square hole in the end if I remove the old solder. I have recently made carbon brushes like yours but slightly thicker front to back. I ground away the back edge to form a square of carbon that matched the size of the hole horizontally but would stick out vertically at the rear of the arm. I used a small amount of Super Glue on the inside of the arm to stick the brush in place (carefully avoiding the edges of the square that goes through the brush). When the glue dried I then ran solder around the rear of the brush arm to make contact with the vertical square to provide electrical contact. Working OK at present but do not know what sort of life expectancy the repaired brushes will have.
Typical, this turns up a week after I took an old washing motor along with other scrap metal to the household waste site😂 An excellent video. And an inspiration, and I will have to have a go myself. I even saved a pint jug glass from the recent sort out.
I always find a use for something once I've chucked it. It can be in a cupboard for years untouched but once gone the need arises., very frustrating. Thanks for looking at the video, all the best to you
This could be excellent for triang minic motorways brushes , they can be made from xo4 brushes but the carbon often drops off during filing them down to size and is impossible to solder back on well until now Thank you for this excellent solution .
@@MrSnooze needs must and no one makes them , the brass bits don’t need much work but the carbons are way too big , yes they are very similar to the Rocket brushes , the soldering carbon pads comes up very often on forums for people with motors that they can’t get brushes for but have the remains of the old ones , your video will get a hell of a lot of likes I predict .
Excellent video and quality was fine despite your concerns. I was thinking Triang X500 (Rocket motor) and early Minic and then you mentioned it. Those brushes are impossible to source in my experience so this is really good news on that front. I have both vintage Minic and a Rocket. Good to have you back! Tom.
@MrSnooze Looking back at my notes, I "made" X500 brushes by filing down the width of MK1 minic brushes (the type that were used on the open frame brass chassis) and adjusting the bend. The problem now is that these brushes are not available either. I still have a second Rocket for spares; the X500 is repaired as it overheated and the nylon that holds the brushes was melted. My working Rocket is radio controlled to overcome the shortcomings of poor pick-ups and no magnahesion on nickel track. The smoke still uses the track supply to reduce current draw on the battery. Regards, Tom
Hi Mr Snooze. No need for Blu tack; unnecessarily messy. Just make the square holes in the wooden template the correct dimensions and BINGO, the carbon 'lump' will just slot in and remain in position. Paul. 👍❤
I agree, I'm in the process of making a better tool, when I started this video I just hacked a couple of recesses with my penknife. Not very good I know. Thanks for looking, all the best to you
You can get replacement axles and wheels I replaced a 1959 jinty tank loco which the pick up wheels were deeply pitted and replaced the front and rear wheels and axles and we had a brand new running model
Great process. Thank you for sharing this. Getting new brushes for a Tri-ang TT XT.60 motor is not easy these days. This will solve some problems with that in the future. 👍 Check out my latest short on my channel for the Tri-ang TT Project if you have time. Stay safe. Mon
Nice to see our old school boy physics in application. Very inspiring Mr Snooze. Thank you for sharing this.
I've made a few repairs using this process and all still seems to be well. Thanks for looking, all the best to you
what a great video sending off for some copper sulfate today already have loads of old carbon brushes and a fine saw so cant wait to get busy making spare brushes...thanks for doing the video
Very good - I had actually pondered about how the carbon was fixed to the metal, copper plating had never occurred to me!
Thank you for the tutorial👍🏻
I'm glad you found this interesting, Thanks for looking, all the best to you
Excellent idea! Getting new brushes in France has become an issue since Brexit. So this will no doubt become very useful !!! Thanks Mr S
Lots of items are harder to get now, no matter where you live. Thanks for looking, all the best to you
Very interesting watch works well thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for looking at this Martin, Take care, all the best to you
I noticed your video because it was about motor brushes.. I rebuild auto starters for old (obsolete) cars as there is a push for not having parts for them any more. The idea of copper plating the brush material is Very interesting! Yes, the scale is different, your issues are getting the camera to focus and such, mine are with generated heat melting solder and the lack of knowledge. Generic brushes are available and can be ground down, but the main problem has been getting the leads to stick. I did rc car racing for a while, rewinding the motors but found the solder holding the winding to the commutator would melt during a run and the windings would "explode" all over the inside of the motor. The answer was silver solder alloyed to melt as low as possible. Auto brushes contain silver and other materials to make them last a lot longer than regular brushes used in drills and the like due to the amp loads they work under. I'm going to experiment! Nice work, great presentation!!
Thanks for looking. It's interesting to hear about your work with starters. I'm just rebuilding a Fordson Major starter from the late fifties. The brushes have a wire embedded but work is required to change them. It sounds like your RC car motors got really hot to melt that solder. Thanks for taking the time to pass on the information. All the best to you
Your videos are a goldmine of information.
Thanks for the kind remark. It's good to hear this has been helpful. Best regards to you
Great to see you back mr snooze, brilliant video all the best
Thanks for watching, I'm glad you found this of interest. Take care, all the best to you
Excellent tip, well done 🎉
Glad you liked seeing this Mike, take care, all the best to you
Thank you Mr Snooze. That was a terrific video and it is great to see you back again. This is really the sort of 'can do' video that I enjoy most and I am grateful for the knowledge that you are prepared to share. Two things to offer from my own limited experience. I have manufactured dublo type brushes using the graphite found in the flat pencils that carpenters use and I now test my XO3/4 type brushes for continuity using my multimeter after finding a faulty, non conducting one supplied as a replacement. Cheers from Western Australia.
It's interesting to hear about your own brushes, are these for the vertical motor? if so have you rounded them up? It's always good to know what other people have made, Thanks for passing this info on. All the best to you
As far as I can remember, it was in a two rail Dublo Barnstable so that would be a horizontal ringfield motor and yes, after removing the graphite 'lead' from the pencil, I used a file and then fine sandpaper to shape the replacement bush. Regards. Jim@@MrSnooze
Oh welcome back. What an informative video and the result is excellent. Now I know why replacement brushes are copper coloured. Brilliant. I have saved this video to one of my libraries and will be sure to refer to it in future. By the way, I fitted the ball race bearing to the motor from my 08 shunter and it runs as smooth as silk. It wasn't anywhere near as difficult as I was anticipating and I am pleased with the result. 😊
It's good to hear you have made your motor better with a ball race, I assume it's in the rear bearing, I've found sometimes this is the only one that wants upgrading. Thanks for looking in at this video, all the best to you
@@MrSnooze Yes, rear bearing. Cheers
great video, fantastic project
Thanks for looking ang taking the time to comment. All the best to you
Great video. May I suggest (as an electronics eng of over 30 years), ditch the lead free solder, and get proper leaded solder, ideally multicore. You will be amazed at how much better your joints are.
That is a great suggestion, I just wish I could find the large box of Ersin Multicore solder I have in ' a safe place ' I have actually been searching for it for many years. Thanks for looking in at the channel again, all the best to you
@MrSnooze We only used Ersin on the production line. Am impressed with your copper plating rig and how successful it is. May I suggest adding an ammeter, because the current is what matters as I'm sure you know. Also self gripping fine tweezers either side of the carbon brush would reduce current and hence copper flow to your clip. Kindest regards Gary
Nice work.
Great idea.
Thanks Mon, you ought to try this if you have any broken brushes. Take care, all the best to you
@@MrSnooze interestingly, it's not long since resoldering a broken brush was an option in a X.05 motor.
This option of being able to make your own solderable carbon brush pad is such a great idea.
Thank you.
Thanks Mr Snooze, that was very interesting and informative as I wondered how the carbon was soldered in place.
Thanks for looking at this and I'm glad you found it of interest. Take care, all the best to you
Thank you for making this video as the price of brushes is getting silly, but not sure if I am brave enough to have a go 😊👍all the best Phil.
I bet you could do this, everything you need is shown, try it out for fun. All the best to you
Great video! I had often wondered about this as the replacement brushes available online seem to be less carbon internally, more of a mix of impurities that i expect would wear the commutator. Will be good to see how much life you get out of yours. Great to be able to do this especially for brushes on rocket and that kind of rarer motor. Once again lovely to see it work out well.
Regards
Will
Thanks for looking, I'm looking forward to see how the replacement fares compared to an original. Best regards to you
I often wondered about that very subject.
It had been on my mind for a while so it's been good to see what's possible. Best regards to you
Great to see you back
Thanks, it's good to have a little spare time for the vintage items. All the best to you
My worn out brush arms have a square hole in the end if I remove the old solder. I have recently made carbon brushes like yours but slightly thicker front to back. I ground away the back edge to form a square of carbon that matched the size of the hole horizontally but would stick out vertically at the rear of the arm. I used a small amount of Super Glue on the inside of the arm to stick the brush in place (carefully avoiding the edges of the square that goes through the brush). When the glue dried I then ran solder around the rear of the brush arm to make contact with the vertical square to provide electrical contact. Working OK at present but do not know what sort of life expectancy the repaired brushes will have.
Thanks for looking, that sounds like a very ingenious repair. I hope you get some good running from those. Take care, all the best to you
Typical, this turns up a week after I took an old washing motor along with other scrap metal to the household waste site😂 An excellent video. And an inspiration, and I will have to have a go myself. I even saved a pint jug glass from the recent sort out.
I always find a use for something once I've chucked it. It can be in a cupboard for years untouched but once gone the need arises., very frustrating. Thanks for looking at the video, all the best to you
Fabulous video, very informative and interesting to watch
Thanks for taking the time to watch, best regards to you
This could be excellent for triang minic motorways brushes , they can be made from xo4 brushes but the carbon often drops off during filing them down to size and is impossible to solder back on well until now
Thank you for this excellent solution .
It sounds like a fair bit of work altering XO-4 brushes for a Rocket. It is a great idea though. Thanks for looking, all the best to you
@@MrSnooze needs must and no one makes them , the brass bits don’t need much work but the carbons are way too big , yes they are very similar to the Rocket brushes , the soldering carbon pads comes up very often on forums for people with motors that they can’t get brushes for but have the remains of the old ones , your video will get a hell of a lot of likes I predict .
Excellent video and quality was fine despite your concerns. I was thinking Triang X500 (Rocket motor) and early Minic and then you mentioned it. Those brushes are impossible to source in my experience so this is really good news on that front. I have both vintage Minic and a Rocket. Good to have you back! Tom.
I'm glad you found this interesting Tom, those rocket brushes are tiny, I might have a go at some if I can find some arms. Best regards to you
@MrSnooze Looking back at my notes, I "made" X500 brushes by filing down the width of MK1 minic brushes (the type that were used on the open frame brass chassis) and adjusting the bend. The problem now is that these brushes are not available either. I still have a second Rocket for spares; the X500 is repaired as it overheated and the nylon that holds the brushes was melted. My working Rocket is radio controlled to overcome the shortcomings of poor pick-ups and no magnahesion on nickel track. The smoke still uses the track supply to reduce current draw on the battery. Regards, Tom
Great video I’ve tried to solder these brushes and failed now thanks to yo I know how
I hope you give the plating a try. Thanks for looking, all the best to you
Hi Mr Snooze.
No need for Blu tack; unnecessarily messy. Just make the square holes in the wooden template the correct dimensions and BINGO, the carbon 'lump' will just slot in and remain in position.
Paul. 👍❤
Brilliant video was wondering how they connected these now I know thanks
I agree, I'm in the process of making a better tool, when I started this video I just hacked a couple of recesses with my penknife. Not very good I know. Thanks for looking, all the best to you
Brilliant . that booze in the dimpled glass looks good
Bit too blue for my liking, I will want my glass back soon though. Take care, all the best to you
You can get replacement axles and wheels I replaced a 1959 jinty tank loco which the pick up wheels were deeply pitted and replaced the front and rear wheels and axles and we had a brand new running model
Thanks for watching and passing on the useful information. It sounds like you have yours up and running well. Take care, all the best to you
You can actually get conductive glue works well I got mine e of ebay
I've not seen that product, it sounds very useful stuff. Take care, all the best to you
Is this the epoxy with copper?
Great process.
Thank you for sharing this.
Getting new brushes for a Tri-ang TT XT.60 motor is not easy these days.
This will solve some problems with that in the future. 👍
Check out my latest short on my channel for the Tri-ang TT Project if you have time.
Stay safe.
Mon
I'll take a look soon Mon, take care, all the best to you