Hoorah! You’re the first person I’ve heard explain how to confirm that a square is actually square. Plus, I now know what to do if such is not the case. Brilliant!!!
I think this channel will soon take off and become one of the big ones. I very much like the format of short but not too short videos explaining one thing at a time and in detail. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world.
At first I thought, a video on squares, those are pretty basic, but sure enough I learned 3 new things from this video and only regret I am way too far away to sign up for a class. Hell, I would pay for a class just to thank Graham in person for all the free lessons I already got from him!!!!
Congratulations! You have a wonderful collection of squares. Thank you for sharing them in this excellent video. Thank God for your life and for the knowledge you share with us. It is invaluable. Blessings!
Thank You Graham. This video really highlights the importance of checking the quality of your tools. Recently i helped a friend who was having issues with his table saw jamming - which turned out that his square was out, and hence he had set his fence askew... Appreciate the video.
I did not know that you can use that angled edge of a bevel for dovetails. Ahh the things you teach us, and the enormous knowledge you have Graham. Thank you.!
Many old bevel gauges has body sides that aren't parallel. It's a problem because an angle is no longer symmetrical when you flip it, and say miters aren't accurate. So every vintage bevel must be checked the same way a square is checked, and if sides aren't parallel they need to be filed, sanded or planed.
Hi, Graham, i enjoy you channel and your books. Today I have some innformation to add. You showed a device with a 90 degree angle that attaches to a combination square and illustrated how it can be used to mark a 45 degree angle, which it certainly can. Its real superpower is finding center on round stock. Fit the rnd of the round sock as far into the angle as you can and use the edge that bisects the angle to strike a line. Rotate the stock, strike a second line, and the inntersection of the two lines will mark the center of the stock. Cheers, Stu
7:38 I’ve always referred to that particular tool as a combination square - is that incorrect?? I can’t wait for the session on bevels. I know there’s a few secrets in that little gem that I need to learn! Back in the 1960’s, if you were “square”, that meant you were a boring, and often a goody two-shoes, person. Kind of a stretch from ‘normal’! I don’t know about y’all, but I’m not normal or square … thankfully! 😜
Yep, 'combination square' is often used - seems a bit illogical since a square is a square, but it the tool can do other things... Meanwhie I guess it's still useful not to be seen as 'square'!
8:05 and dont forget, one of the things that attachment can also do is, find the center of a dowel or other round stock. You place the V over the end of the stock and the rule is used to draw a line. Then do it a second time on a different radius and you found the center. It's one of my favorite features of a combination square
That particular book has inspired me to make some bevels myself form old saw blades. I especially want to make a boat builder's double bevel. Will I need it? Only after I've made it I'll know :^) Thank you for great video!
On a good combination square is a square stock with spirit level on for right angles.Then a protractor followed by a Vee shaped sliding "centre finder" for cylinders or pipes.In fact all three slide on the rule
In geometry at least, normal still means perpendicular/square (with some added conditions depending on the number of dimensions). It's just in non-math it's changed.
A little off topic: Did people have a way to rejuvenate the blacking on folding wooden rulers, or did they just replace the rulers when the scale became hard to read? The latter seems wasteful, so I'm hoping there is a way!
@@gjbmunc That didn't work very well, even with a fine tipped one. I think they manufactured these by stamping the scale into the wood and then pressing "blacking" into the impression, finally sealing in with finish. Blacking was something like coal dust and a binder. I wondered if there was a way to make blacking or if there is a substitute. That way, the result would be sharp and crisp. Also, I could scrape or even bleach some discoloration away from the wood surrounding the markings. I'll try the sharpie again, but it didn't seem satisfactory the last time. Thank you for the reply.
Thank you Graham! How do you make sure your combination square is square? Mine, bought new, was perfectly square (measured by good machinist square), but became out of square in a while.
Roman, if you take the blade out of the combo square and look in the slot where it was installed, there are two tiny raised spots - one on either end of the slot. The blade does not rest on the bottom of the slot - it rests on these two raised spots. To re-square your combo square, you need to very carefully file one of these down. Go slowly because it's easy to overshoot. It's also easy to file the wrong one, making your square more out-of-square. File a little, then reinstall the blade and check for square using the method Graham showed. On you test board, make sure the long edge that you are registering the square against is perfectly straight. Hope that helps.
In addition to the previous comments I would like to add that before filing the pads to retrue the square you should clean them thoroughly to confirm that there is no dirt or debris throwing the square off.
That can happen for a few reasons - or example, cheap tools might not be square from the get-go, or tools can get out of square over time, especially if they get dropped a lot or otherwise abused. I think it's a good idea to invest in a decent metal mechanics square so you check other squares and adjust (or replace) as necessary. You don't need a large one; I have one that's 2 or 3 inches.
Hoorah! You’re the first person I’ve heard explain how to confirm that a square is actually square. Plus, I now know what to do if such is not the case. Brilliant!!!
Glad to help!
I think this channel will soon take off and become one of the big ones. I very much like the format of short but not too short videos explaining one thing at a time and in detail.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world.
I keep thinking that Christopher Walken and Graham need to do a live woodworking channel. Between the two I think it would blow up!
@@JBuck-cu7xd Who is Christopher Walken?
That's the plan!
It’s a two hour drive from Wilton CT to Woodstock. I’m sure someone would be willing to drive him to your shop!
One thing ive noticed is Graham does alot of his videos in ONE take! Which is pretty darn Impressive! :)
Just trying to be efficient with the editing.
At first I thought, a video on squares, those are pretty basic, but sure enough I learned 3 new things from this video and only regret I am way too far away to sign up for a class. Hell, I would pay for a class just to thank Graham in person for all the free lessons I already got from him!!!!
Maybe we could convince him to host classes remotely? There’s tons I’m sure we could all learn that way.
Thanks!
Kind of what the TH-cam episodes are...?
@@gjbmunc kind of, but even more in depth and with limited number of participants, so people can ask questions. Zoom, Teams, etc. are all options.
Or buy (or in my case, keep buying) his books! They are fantastic and he does some really neat illustrations!
Definitely looking forward an episode on bevel gauges! Thanks Graham.
Coming soon!
Congratulations! You have a wonderful collection of squares. Thank you for sharing them in this excellent video. Thank God for your life and for the knowledge you share with us. It is invaluable. Blessings!
You are so welcome!
Another excellent and important session!
Thanks Graham.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank You Graham. This video really highlights the importance of checking the quality of your tools. Recently i helped a friend who was having issues with his table saw jamming - which turned out that his square was out, and hence he had set his fence askew... Appreciate the video.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the helpful information!
You'r welcome!
Thanks for another lesson, Graham! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too!
I did not know that you can use that angled edge of a bevel for dovetails. Ahh the things you teach us, and the enormous knowledge you have Graham. Thank you.!
Thank you so much, happy to pass it on.
Many old bevel gauges has body sides that aren't parallel. It's a problem because an angle is no longer symmetrical when you flip it, and say miters aren't accurate. So every vintage bevel must be checked the same way a square is checked, and if sides aren't parallel they need to be filed, sanded or planed.
Sure, very true if you want to use the bevel fromm both sides.
Hi, Graham, i enjoy you channel and your books. Today I have some innformation to add. You showed a device with a 90 degree angle that attaches to a combination square and illustrated how it can be used to mark a 45 degree angle, which it certainly can. Its real superpower is finding center on round stock. Fit the rnd of the round sock as far into the angle as you can and use the edge that bisects the angle to strike a line. Rotate the stock, strike a second line, and the inntersection of the two lines will mark the center of the stock. Cheers, Stu
Very true; I ought to have mentioned that.
7:38 I’ve always referred to that particular tool as a combination square - is that incorrect??
I can’t wait for the session on bevels. I know there’s a few secrets in that little gem that I need to learn!
Back in the 1960’s, if you were “square”, that meant you were a boring, and often a goody two-shoes, person. Kind of a stretch from ‘normal’!
I don’t know about y’all, but I’m not normal or square … thankfully! 😜
Yep, 'combination square' is often used - seems a bit illogical since a square is a square, but it the tool can do other things...
Meanwhie I guess it's still useful not to be seen as 'square'!
8:05 and dont forget, one of the things that attachment can also do is, find the center of a dowel or other round stock. You place the V over the end of the stock and the rule is used to draw a line. Then do it a second time on a different radius and you found the center. It's one of my favorite features of a combination square
Very true!
Thank you Sir, Take Care
Thanks, you too!
Thanks a ton Graham!!!
My pleasure!
A small note is that the v-shaped attachment on the modern try-squares is to use it to find the center of wood and mark that.
YES INDEED!
Excellent information and knowledge to be gained here.
Glad to help!
Pura vida Don Graham great topic and well explained it. I like try square with Rosewood or cocobolo wooden handle ❤.pura vida
Thank you so much!
That particular book has inspired me to make some bevels myself form old saw blades. I especially want to make a boat builder's double bevel. Will I need it? Only after I've made it I'll know :^)
Thank you for great video!
You're welcome.
Would definitely like to know more about the jig mentioned for the brass riveted plates on the squares
I've read about it but ever tried it. I'll look into it some more.
On a good combination square is a square stock with spirit level on for right angles.Then a protractor followed by a Vee shaped sliding "centre finder" for cylinders or pipes.In fact all three slide on the rule
True!
In geometry at least, normal still means perpendicular/square (with some added conditions depending on the number of dimensions). It's just in non-math it's changed.
very true!
I know to check my metal square if I drop it. Is there any other reason I might need to check a metal square? Interesting episode. Thanks for sharing.
You never know what might get bent - even a little.
A little off topic: Did people have a way to rejuvenate the blacking on folding wooden rulers, or did they just replace the rulers when the scale became hard to read? The latter seems wasteful, so I'm hoping there is a way!
Try a sharpie!
@@gjbmunc That didn't work very well, even with a fine tipped one. I think they manufactured these by stamping the scale into the wood and then pressing "blacking" into the impression, finally sealing in with finish. Blacking was something like coal dust and a binder. I wondered if there was a way to make blacking or if there is a substitute. That way, the result would be sharp and crisp. Also, I could scrape or even bleach some discoloration away from the wood surrounding the markings. I'll try the sharpie again, but it didn't seem satisfactory the last time. Thank you for the reply.
Thank you Graham!
How do you make sure your combination square is square?
Mine, bought new, was perfectly square (measured by good machinist square), but became out of square in a while.
Check when tightening thumb screw that rule touches inside stock on both sides
Roman, if you take the blade out of the combo square and look in the slot where it was installed, there are two tiny raised spots - one on either end of the slot. The blade does not rest on the bottom of the slot - it rests on these two raised spots. To re-square your combo square, you need to very carefully file one of these down. Go slowly because it's easy to overshoot. It's also easy to file the wrong one, making your square more out-of-square. File a little, then reinstall the blade and check for square using the method Graham showed. On you test board, make sure the long edge that you are registering the square against is perfectly straight. Hope that helps.
Thank you guys for your replies, but I meant that event if you leveled ruler pads once, you never know when it gets out of square again.
I guess things wear.....which is why I check frequently.
In addition to the previous comments I would like to add that before filing the pads to retrue the square you should clean them thoroughly to confirm that there is no dirt or debris throwing the square off.
Love all your excellent explanations and show and tells. But why do all your tools that your showing seem dirty and rusty
Sorry, it's been a very cold and damp winter in my shop, things will get cleaned up soon - although I like hundred-year old patina....
Sliding T bevel,
Another name, which I prefer to use just for bevels with slots from one end of the blde to the other. Thanks!
my biggest problem is none of my squares show the same results
That can happen for a few reasons - or example, cheap tools might not be square from the get-go, or tools can get out of square over time, especially if they get dropped a lot or otherwise abused. I think it's a good idea to invest in a decent metal mechanics square so you check other squares and adjust (or replace) as necessary. You don't need a large one; I have one that's 2 or 3 inches.
Check them all...