Used a rigid orbital sander for my shower epoxy job 40, 120, 240 grit dry. Then I used 400 and 800 wet with a different sanding machine (not by hand). I'm at 4 hrs, as it's a full tub and surround with corners, soup dish, etc. Will finish up with the 1200 and then move onto the polish machine. Much harder than a flat countertop 🥵. But it looks a lot better so far thanks to your simple easy to follow instructions!👍
Great job, I'm actually learning to use this product. Thank you so much for video. I messed up my first table. From going forward, I know what to do now
Thank you Matt .. am A carpenter from India ... Been watching some videos of yours.. was Quite Helpful.. apologies for subscribing late..but was Very very Helpful... Thank you Namaste..
WOW looks great. I have to say I used stonecoat countertop's product for my tops about 60 square worth. They say on there channel they cannot bring it back to a high luster. I am just about 2 years in and have a bunch of scratches which I would like to take out. I do have a da and an orbital with a bunch of pads. Still kind of afraid to do this cause once started I am commited and if it does not work out the wife will not be very happy. It is like a mirror and do not want to lose that.
Finally, a video that explains what i need to do to remove scratches from a 39ft bar! Was going to use Megulars Car Compound and Polish to fix the scratches!!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video :) There are various combinations of polish that will work, but this is the combination I use and that has worked successfully for me. Make sure to use get the surface as shiny as possible with the the fast cut compound first, to a level where you think it’s doesn’t even need a final polish with the fine compound. Then move on to the fine compound and you’ll get an incredible shine. Think of the fine compound as more of a cherry on top after the main work is already done. If you don’t polish to an almost complete level with the fast cut compound, you will still see small scratches in the surface when you move on to the fine compound. It’s really satisfying when you get it right. So, you’ll probably end up using maybe 3 times more of the fast cut than you will the fine compound.
Thank you for posting this. Every other video I have watched as well as info I have read online fails to mention how much time should be spent to achieve the final high gloss finish as it's always made to appear so quick and easy which I couldn't figure out why it was taking me a couple hours for the entire process. I think I must be rushing through much quicker then i should be.
can you share the names of the products you used please? we just had ours done professionally. loved the countertops so much they were like glass..looked like real marble..but then the guy put a sealant on the next morning with a roller and they look like dimpled plastic. I'm devastated. I sanded one piece back with a 120 orbital sander and it's lifed most of the sealant off. Will polishing and buffing be enough to bring it back to the original epoxy? and will the epoxy be enough on its own without a sealant?
The result was great, but is there a real advantage to all this work vs just putting a light coat over the top? Does the newly resurfaced layer last longer since it's been hardening for years?
You could just pour over the top, you’d need a good key 120-180 grit for it to stick well. And you’ll end up with a thicker layer of epoxy overall. But each method works. Up to you. It would probably take around the same amount of work in preparation and time overall.
I tried your link for the machine and sponges, etc. but they no longer work. I would like to know what specific 3M polishes you used, but can't pick it out right from the video. Thanks.
A bit of both. Swirling your hand when sanding is easier to get more random sanding process and stops you from sanding to much in one area, which could cause dips in the surface. But as long as your careful I don’t think it really matters. As the polish will remove the scratches in the end.
The only link you forgot to leave was for those super rad work slippers! Other than that…excellent video. Answered all my questions and more. Great job brother!
Clear and concise, but I'm not sure why all the wiping with acetone is necessary, producing much noxious fumes. Surely water, or perhaps some light detergent, will do just fine?
I am brand new to Epoxy Resin! I have bought and old table with scratches and chips however I want to save it and bring out the luster to the table. I sanded it with the proper snd paper however I did not use the wet sandpaper. Then I polished it with Promise and I am not doing something right. What do I need to do to bring back the shine to the best possible shine?
Question: I have black epoxy floors all over my loft and recently, when I decided to get rid of a carpet, I realized that it had left a discoloration where it used to be, under my super heavy dining table (that I literally can't move on my own). Would a sanding and polishing job, as featured in this video, work to fix it? I'm hoping to not have to redo the whole loft if possible 😅
Also please.. i am now doing epoxy experiment.. i have used two part Varnish to give topcoat to the table... I i want to wax and polish the Varnish ... please advise .. thank you
My DIY epoxy countertops absorbed dye from food packaging …which was really disappointing after all the work I’ve done . Would this method remove the dye or am I just going to have to replace the whole thing ?
Nice video. Yet for such a large area how did you not get any swirls or possible scratches while sanding without wiping after each pass not just when changing grits of paper. I have gone from 80 - 2000 twice still scratch 🤷♀️ my project is a bit smaller but still the same process. I have the right sander! the right paper! the right vacuum! the right rags for wiping! All is right yet again if it’s not swirl marks it it scratches. Now my last piece manage to get no swirls and only some scratches. One question I have how long would you recommend on each grit of paper? A good speed on sander? I did enjoy the video thank you for sharing.
For the polish: This is the equivalent for the Fast cut compound : www.amazon.ca/3M-Perfect-Rubbing-Compound-Quart/dp/B0186C87LW/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=3m+09374&qid=1615238193&sr=8-4 And this is the equivalent for the Fine Polishing Compound: www.amazon.ca/3M-06064-Perfect-Machine-Polish/dp/B000P0Q1J4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=3m+machine+polish&qid=1615238674&sprefix=3m+machine&sr=8-3
3 ปีที่แล้ว +1
@@MattHutton thanks. It's really expensive products if we use it only one time :) I'll try to find if some car wash can have it in smaller quantity.. never know. I found it around 62$ each. I'll order that.. If I have extra.. I'll put in on my car :)
Great video! I have a number of resin tables that are easily scratched. I'm trying to find a "scratch resistant" product that provides a gloss finish that I can apply to the tables. Rubio provides a flat finish so something else is required. thank you
My kids are very disrespectful to my expensive epoxy flooring. Glad to see there's a option available to bring the shine back to my children abused floors😅😅😅 Is like a skating rink to them
Great video Matt. I did try my first epoxy project with some wood coasters. The tops turned out great, but the sides got some scuff marks which happened when I moved them. I used 400 grit on the sides which got the scuff out, but what would you suggest for getting the shine back?
Love this. I am almost there I think. Please tell me that the 3m compounds are worth the money, it's getting expensive 😅. I am still getting burls might be trying too hard with the wet sanding.
You can polish metal with the 3M compounds which are harder than epoxy so I’m sure it will work for you. Are you using a machine polisher with a sponge? Make sure that that whole surface has only 1200 grit scratches or higher, no lower. If you see courser scratches you might need to go back in those areas and work your way up again. Stay longer on the 3m fast compound that your might think. The 3m fine compound is really just an icing on the cake. The fast cut compound will do pretty much all of the polishing from 1200 grit up to a high gloss shine. You can if you want, only use the fast cut compound and it will look great when your finish. Just be patient and take your time with it, you’ll see it working after a while. I hope that helps
@@MattHutton Thank you very much for you reply. I just got a 7" machine polisher and was using my variable speed sander. Yes I think I will take it a step back a bit, watch and pause your video :) again. The right polishing pads seem to be hard to find on amazon, the links you shared are no longer available for me to even see and look them up and I am in Canada. I have called an autobody supply store so will go from there. I think it will be worth it. Thanks again. 👍👍
At last someone from the UK, with UK bought products :-) Did you epoxy the counter top? Had accident with mine, so costing £900+ to replace. Hence last 3 weeks watching and learning on this epoxy stuff, so be doing mine. Dont like gloss look, not that referring to yours, always preferred matte or satin. So i be best starting with say 240, stopping around 600? For a honed look, (BASE COAT BE A CHARCOAL). Cheers thx for the vid
Bro, can I sand just a small part of the area that has some problems, and then polish the rest so that the portion I just corrected blends with the area?
@@greglegakis4177 I solved my issue by applying a new layer on top of the old one. But for your problem, the answer is yes, it works to fix the area and then sand it down. After sanding, there is a special polish for epoxy. As a tip, I can say that the tools and how you organize your work are very important. For example, polishing in a certain direction and ensuring equal portions receive the same amount of polish can make a big difference
@@greglegakis4177 I solved my issue by applying a new layer on top of the old one. But for your problem, the answer is yes, it works to fix the area and then sand it down. After sanding, there is a special polish for epoxy. As a tip, I can say that the tools and how you organize your work are very important. For example, polishing in a certain direction and ensuring equal portions receive the same amount of polish can make a big difference
‘In my opinion’ a regular rotating polisher is able to heat up the surface and allow the compound to work better. An orbital sander would take absolute ages and work extremely poorly. And I’ve not actually tried a dual action polished, might be a good option, but I prefer rotation only so as not lose torque in another direct. I feel like there are less variable with rotation only so your are more in control of the result you’ll get.
@@MattHutton THanks for the reply! You were the only one to actually give one. Here's a link to the dual action orbital i was looking at: www.harborfreight.com/20mm-long-throw-random-orbit-6-in-da-polisher-56367.html?_br_psugg_q=polisher It still has variable speed, if it lacks torque could it perhaps make up for it in the opm?
@@MattHutton I was going to polish wood/resin tables, and use the polisher to buff in 3m cutting compounds, and then osmo. There are so many different osmos tho I'm confused lol
It should work the same for most plastic finishes. Polyurethane is a little softer than epoxy so you may not have to push as hard to achieve the same results. If you try on a small test area first that should help get the process down before you do the whole thing.
are there equivalent but cheaper option for these products? I experimented with resin and did a large paint. I m at the last step: polishing and waxing. but I don't wanna spend too much on these products cos I don't think I would do other paints using resin.thanks
You can use the orbital sander with the wet and dry paper too. But I like to do it by hand at that time because you’re really just buffing the surface after you get to 400-1200 grit. And I feel like I have a bit more control when I do it by hand. The orbital sander is good at getting the surface flat, but it can be quite harsh.
@@MattHutton this makes so much more sense now. I've spent weeks redoing projects because I still see scratches in my work. No matter how many times I go over it. Just the same outcome
I bought a £3 polishing pad to go on my random orbit sander (180mm diameter c 20mm thickness). Hook & loop to just sticks on. Seemed to work ok for polishing a wood/epoxy shelf I made. I used some Meguiars car compound and then polish, as I already had that. Total spend £6 (bought 2 pads). Worth a go if you don't have the budget for all the tools etc
You can use water. Acetone doesn’t leave a residue and you can see if there any dust left over very quickly after wiping. As it evaporates very quickly. If you don’t like the smell water is fine :)
Yes, if you want them shining as brilliantly as the first day they were poured. However, they are still very shiny even with all of the little scratches. If your not looking closely at the surface you won’t notice. But if you really want the brilliant shine you will need to re-polish every 2-3 years.
Just put sealer No needs all this work will not protect the surface it is like waxing car nice for short time. Sand lightly 220 Dry by hand. Clean . Put sealer protect for everything. Last long . No need all this sanding and process looks good but no protection Forget about it
WOW I was a spray painter for 30 years and know exactly how much mess the excess polishing is sprayed all over the place! Your misses must of killed you for the mess on everything else!!
You can just polish. But you have deeper scratches you will need to start from a coarser grit and work your way up if you would like to get rid of them
Okay the problem is, i do understand Indians Chinese even though philipinos :) but how is possible to do not understand British 😂😂😂 this driving me crazy 😂😂
![Why You Should NOT Do Epoxy Resin Countertops [Do THIS Instead]](/img/n.gif)
I’ve been in this industry for 10 years and I have never heard a better explanation for polishing! Bravo
Thanks Matt, I have 12 surfaces to polish at my Hotel and this gave me the process to do it right
Used a rigid orbital sander for my shower epoxy job 40, 120, 240 grit dry. Then I used 400 and 800 wet with a different sanding machine (not by hand). I'm at 4 hrs, as it's a full tub and surround with corners, soup dish, etc.
Will finish up with the 1200 and then move onto the polish machine. Much harder than a flat countertop 🥵. But it looks a lot better so far thanks to your simple easy to follow instructions!👍
Awesome, nice work!
I’m gonna try this on my epoxy painting tomorrow! Thanks!
Great job, I'm actually learning to use this product. Thank you so much for video. I messed up my first table. From going forward, I know what to do now
Thank you Matt .. am A carpenter from India ... Been watching some videos of yours.. was Quite Helpful.. apologies for subscribing late..but was Very very Helpful... Thank you Namaste..
Glad you found my videos useful :)
WOW looks great. I have to say I used stonecoat countertop's product for my tops about 60 square worth. They say on there channel they cannot bring it back to a high luster. I am just about 2 years in and have a bunch of scratches which I would like to take out. I do have a da and an orbital with a bunch of pads. Still kind of afraid to do this cause once started I am commited and if it does not work out the wife will not be very happy. It is like a mirror and do not want to lose that.
"My wife shamed me into using PPE so that I wouldn't breathe in tons of epoxy dust." You've got the right wife, dude. She's a keeper! :)
:) she de one ☝️
Death by pulmonary fibrosis is horrible! Keep that respirator on anytime you’re sanding! 😉
Use a respirator/ n95 mask kids.... Esp if not wet sanding or at least outside
Finally, a video that explains what i need to do to remove scratches from a 39ft bar! Was going to use Megulars Car Compound and Polish to fix the scratches!!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video :)
There are various combinations of polish that will work, but this is the combination I use and that has worked successfully for me. Make sure to use get the surface as shiny as possible with the the fast cut compound first, to a level where you think it’s doesn’t even need a final polish with the fine compound. Then move on to the fine compound and you’ll get an incredible shine. Think of the fine compound as more of a cherry on top after the main work is already done.
If you don’t polish to an almost complete level with the fast cut compound, you will still see small scratches in the surface when you move on to the fine compound.
It’s really satisfying when you get it right.
So, you’ll probably end up using maybe 3 times more of the fast cut than you will the fine compound.
great content my guy
Thank you for posting this. Every other video I have watched as well as info I have read online fails to mention how much time should be spent to achieve the final high gloss finish as it's always made to appear so quick and easy which I couldn't figure out why it was taking me a couple hours for the entire process. I think I must be rushing through much quicker then i should be.
can you share the names of the products you used please?
we just had ours done professionally. loved the countertops so much they were like glass..looked like real marble..but then the guy put a sealant on the next morning with a roller and they look like dimpled plastic. I'm devastated.
I sanded one piece back with a 120 orbital sander and it's lifed most of the sealant off. Will polishing and buffing be enough to bring it back to the original epoxy?
and will the epoxy be enough on its own without a sealant?
Good job. But how long will this shine last for?
Wow! Looks amazing! Thanks for the tips! ✨💎
Glad you liked it Vince
Super awesome teaching & explaining,, thank you so so much
Glad you liked it
Great video thanks!
Thanks for this tutorial. I just subscribed to your channel.
The result was great, but is there a real advantage to all this work vs just putting a light coat over the top? Does the newly resurfaced layer last longer since it's been hardening for years?
You could just pour over the top, you’d need a good key 120-180 grit for it to stick well. And you’ll end up with a thicker layer of epoxy overall. But each method works. Up to you. It would probably take around the same amount of work in preparation and time overall.
nice tips...what method should i use for epoxy boards.
Can you use a sheet power sander or is orbital the preferred one?
Looks great
I tried your link for the machine and sponges, etc. but they no longer work. I would like to know what specific 3M polishes you used, but can't pick it out right from the video. Thanks.
3m perfect it 1, 2, 3, are what you need. The three polishes go from coarse to fine and can be ordered online.
for wet sanding do you prefer swirl sanding or back forward sanding method?
to prevent swirls marks and scratches
A bit of both. Swirling your hand when sanding is easier to get more random sanding process and stops you from sanding to much in one area, which could cause dips in the surface.
But as long as your careful I don’t think it really matters. As the polish will remove the scratches in the end.
You sure about that acetone? It's a pretty strong solvent so I'd expect it to soften the top epoxy layer, which isn't exactly what you want.
alcohol would be better
The only link you forgot to leave was for those super rad work slippers! Other than that…excellent video. Answered all my questions and more. Great job brother!
Hahah how did you notice :)
@@MattHutton Just by chance…but I also own cozy winter work slippers I wear when pouring epoxy in my garage. Flip flops in the summer.
@@joeymorelli4300 haha nice! You should upload some videos of your pours. I’d watch them, and the slippers :)
Can i sandpaper the same way on a coffee table?
Manually?
Clear and concise, but I'm not sure why all the wiping with acetone is necessary, producing much noxious fumes. Surely water, or perhaps some light detergent, will do just fine?
I am brand new to Epoxy Resin! I have bought and old table with scratches and chips however I want to save it and bring out the luster to the table. I sanded it with the proper snd paper however I did not use the wet sandpaper. Then I polished it with Promise and I am not doing something right. What do I need to do to bring back the shine to the best possible shine?
Question: I have black epoxy floors all over my loft and recently, when I decided to get rid of a carpet, I realized that it had left a discoloration where it used to be, under my super heavy dining table (that I literally can't move on my own). Would a sanding and polishing job, as featured in this video, work to fix it? I'm hoping to not have to redo the whole loft if possible 😅
When you used the wet sand paper, did you just soak the paper in water before sanding?
Storage life is 2yrs unopened what if it's older say 3 or4 yrs. Is it still ok to use?
Any cheap alternative to 3M. Doing some fun project but not wanting to spend that much for a Pro product
Also please.. i am now doing epoxy experiment.. i have used two part Varnish to give topcoat to the table... I i want to wax and polish the Varnish ... please advise .. thank you
Woowww..... Beautiful Man !!! ;-)
Is there an spray I can use to remove small scratches?
My DIY epoxy countertops absorbed dye from food packaging …which was really disappointing after all the work I’ve done . Would this method remove the dye or am I just going to have to replace the whole thing ?
How do you clean the dripping of epoxy on the edges
Nice video. Yet for such a large area how did you not get any swirls or possible scratches while sanding without wiping after each pass not just when changing grits of paper.
I have gone from 80 - 2000 twice still scratch 🤷♀️ my project is a bit smaller but still the same process. I have the right sander! the right paper! the right vacuum! the right rags for wiping! All is right yet again if it’s not swirl marks it it scratches. Now my last piece manage to get no swirls and only some scratches. One question I have how long would you recommend on each grit of paper? A good speed on sander?
I did enjoy the video thank you for sharing.
Please list what you feel is the right sander. Also are you using a DA Random Polisher? That is VERY important!
Please tell me what are the compounds that can be used for polishing other than the one you used
My good UK friend Wayne De Wet.. is ledgendary. I know he is one of the best reviewers ever!!
for the people in Canada, someone know what are the equivalent products ?
For the polish:
This is the equivalent for the Fast cut compound : www.amazon.ca/3M-Perfect-Rubbing-Compound-Quart/dp/B0186C87LW/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=3m+09374&qid=1615238193&sr=8-4
And this is the equivalent for the Fine Polishing Compound: www.amazon.ca/3M-06064-Perfect-Machine-Polish/dp/B000P0Q1J4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=3m+machine+polish&qid=1615238674&sprefix=3m+machine&sr=8-3
@@MattHutton thanks. It's really expensive products if we use it only one time :) I'll try to find if some car wash can have it in smaller quantity.. never know. I found it around 62$ each. I'll order that.. If I have extra.. I'll put in on my car :)
@@MattHutton I finally bought the products :)
@ nice! Would love to hear how it goes :)
Ive done everything you have done but my epoxy has gone from glass like to a matte finish, what have I done wrong?? 😭
Great video! I have a number of resin tables that are easily scratched. I'm trying to find a "scratch resistant" product that provides a gloss finish that I can apply to the tables. Rubio provides a flat finish so something else is required. thank you
glass
Water based polyurethane is what they use to make epoxy floor coatings scratch resistant
Let epoxy cure, sand down with 220 grit sandpaper evenly, vacuum and clean, apply water based polyurethane.
My kids are very disrespectful to my expensive epoxy flooring. Glad to see there's a option available to bring the shine back to my children abused floors😅😅😅 Is like a skating rink to them
Great video Matt. I did try my first epoxy project with some wood coasters. The tops turned out great, but the sides got some scuff marks which happened when I moved them. I used 400 grit on the sides which got the scuff out, but what would you suggest for getting the shine back?
Sand all the way up to 1200 and polish with the polishing compounds :)
Love this. I am almost there I think. Please tell me that the 3m compounds are worth the money, it's getting expensive 😅. I am still getting burls might be trying too hard with the wet sanding.
You can polish metal with the 3M compounds which are harder than epoxy so I’m sure it will work for you.
Are you using a machine polisher with a sponge?
Make sure that that whole surface has only 1200 grit scratches or higher, no lower. If you see courser scratches you might need to go back in those areas and work your way up again.
Stay longer on the 3m fast compound that your might think. The 3m fine compound is really just an icing on the cake. The fast cut compound will do pretty much all of the polishing from 1200 grit up to a high gloss shine. You can if you want, only use the fast cut compound and it will look great when your finish. Just be patient and take your time with it, you’ll see it working after a while.
I hope that helps
@@MattHutton Thank you very much for you reply. I just got a 7" machine polisher and was using my variable speed sander. Yes I think I will take it a step back a bit, watch and pause your video :) again. The right polishing pads seem to be hard to find on amazon, the links you shared are no longer available for me to even see and look them up and I am in Canada. I have called an autobody supply store so will go from there. I think it will be worth it. Thanks again. 👍👍
@@dianerossong7198 okay no worries, hope it goes well :)
At last someone from the UK, with UK bought products :-) Did you epoxy the counter top? Had accident with mine, so costing £900+ to replace. Hence last 3 weeks watching and learning on this epoxy stuff, so be doing mine. Dont like gloss look, not that referring to yours, always preferred matte or satin. So i be best starting with say 240, stopping around 600? For a honed look, (BASE COAT BE A CHARCOAL). Cheers thx for the vid
Yes stopping at 600 should look nice! Awesome, I hope it all goes well 😊
Bro, can I sand just a small part of the area that has some problems, and then polish the rest so that the portion I just corrected blends with the area?
That would be my question but he doesn't appear to be answering anybody's questions. Did you get an answer from somewhere else?
@@greglegakis4177 I solved my issue by applying a new layer on top of the old one. But for your problem, the answer is yes, it works to fix the area and then sand it down. After sanding, there is a special polish for epoxy. As a tip, I can say that the tools and how you organize your work are very important. For example, polishing in a certain direction and ensuring equal portions receive the same amount of polish can make a big difference
@@greglegakis4177 I solved my issue by applying a new layer on top of the old one. But for your problem, the answer is yes, it works to fix the area and then sand it down. After sanding, there is a special polish for epoxy. As a tip, I can say that the tools and how you organize your work are very important. For example, polishing in a certain direction and ensuring equal portions receive the same amount of polish can make a big difference
@@alinciobotar8320 thanks
Is there a benefit for using a regular rotating polisher over an orbital one or a dual-action one?
‘In my opinion’ a regular rotating polisher is able to heat up the surface and allow the compound to work better. An orbital sander would take absolute ages and work extremely poorly. And I’ve not actually tried a dual action polished, might be a good option, but I prefer rotation only so as not lose torque in another direct. I feel like there are less variable with rotation only so your are more in control of the result you’ll get.
@@MattHutton THanks for the reply! You were the only one to actually give one. Here's a link to the dual action orbital i was looking at:
www.harborfreight.com/20mm-long-throw-random-orbit-6-in-da-polisher-56367.html?_br_psugg_q=polisher
It still has variable speed, if it lacks torque could it perhaps make up for it in the opm?
@@koolkid1234ism worth a go! I’d be interested to see how you find it. What are you polishing?
@@MattHutton I was going to polish wood/resin tables, and use the polisher to buff in 3m cutting compounds, and then osmo. There are so many different osmos tho I'm confused lol
@@koolkid1234ism you were going to polish the raw concrete with polishing compound?
Will that same process work on expoy floors with CRU polyurethane finish?
It should work the same for most plastic finishes. Polyurethane is a little softer than epoxy so you may not have to push as hard to achieve the same results. If you try on a small test area first that should help get the process down before you do the whole thing.
Do you think 1200 grit paper is high enough to get a high gloss look for resin jewelry? Thanks!!
Hi Rob, you can go higher it will just take less time to polish and will be easier to remove the scratches, this is just the fastest method.
@@MattHutton Gotcha! Thank You friend. I will support you videos in every way I can.. :))........
@@robjtko thank you 😊
are there equivalent but cheaper option for these products? I experimented with resin and did a large paint. I m at the last step: polishing and waxing. but I don't wanna spend too much on these products cos I don't think I would do other paints using resin.thanks
Yes, you can buy smaller bottle of the same polishing products
You're gorgeous! 😉💕
Why did you not use the sander when you used the wet and dry paper?
You can use the orbital sander with the wet and dry paper too. But I like to do it by hand at that time because you’re really just buffing the surface after you get to 400-1200 grit. And I feel like I have a bit more control when I do it by hand. The orbital sander is good at getting the surface flat, but it can be quite harsh.
@@MattHutton Thanks for that. Will try that to see if I get better results.
@@MattHutton this makes so much more sense now. I've spent weeks redoing projects because I still see scratches in my work. No matter how many times I go over it. Just the same outcome
@@JohnDoe-kg1on amazing :)
So how can I polish up an epoxy pyramid? I’m also kind of broke and don’t have the buffing pad. Is there anything at home I can use?
I bought a £3 polishing pad to go on my random orbit sander (180mm diameter c 20mm thickness). Hook & loop to just sticks on. Seemed to work ok for polishing a wood/epoxy shelf I made.
I used some Meguiars car compound and then polish, as I already had that. Total spend £6 (bought 2 pads).
Worth a go if you don't have the budget for all the tools etc
@@iainarthur7713 thank you!
Which polishing machine did you use? The link doesn't work anymore. I bought a cheap one from Amazon and it broke in half. 😡
Why aceton? For what reason?
You can use water. Acetone doesn’t leave a residue and you can see if there any dust left over very quickly after wiping. As it evaporates very quickly. If you don’t like the smell water is fine :)
@@MattHutton if that is only reason I would suggest cleaning alcohol. Should give you same results and is safer.
Looks like it took a long time though
The gloss is starting to dry 😰 Why?
Can you come do the odd job round my home Matt? Nothing needs doing, but I’ll make you a sausage sandwich😅
How much do you pay?
@@MattHutton ahh I’m just being friendly. You’re probably miles away from me anyway 😅
So this shows Empoxy resin floors will need maintenance in the future
Yes, if you want them shining as brilliantly as the first day they were poured. However, they are still very shiny even with all of the little scratches. If your not looking closely at the surface you won’t notice. But if you really want the brilliant shine you will need to re-polish every 2-3 years.
Just put sealer
No needs all this work will not protect the surface it is like waxing car nice for short time.
Sand lightly 220
Dry by hand.
Clean . Put sealer protect for everything.
Last long .
No need all this sanding and process looks good but no protection
Forget about it
WOW I was a spray painter for 30 years and know exactly how much mess the excess polishing is sprayed all over the place! Your misses must of killed you for the mess on everything else!!
Of all the programs on u -tube 4 applying epoxy resin they never ever do what u are showing here ,or put 2nd coats on!
Why sand so many time why can't I just polish my wife wants her counters shiney
You can just polish. But you have deeper scratches you will need to start from a coarser grit and work your way up if you would like to get rid of them
Okay the problem is, i do understand Indians Chinese even though philipinos :) but how is possible to do not understand British 😂😂😂 this driving me crazy 😂😂
Not that great of a job, I still see the swirl marks and scratches at the end of the video. not as bad as before but still see them.