Mike, this was great and as a result I bought a couple DROK Buck Converters. Very Handy. I appreciate all you do. Just a thought…when I was out in the field with my 818, Bioenno and Buck Converter it occurred to me that bringing along the Buck Converter was “solving a non-problem”. If you’ve got the Bioenno just turn off the Windcamp and plug in the Bioenno. Super fast and keep operating. Especially easy if you’ve got the Windcamp Powerpole mod for the 818 charging socket. Why bring along an extra piece of gear when it’s really not needed?
Mike, very timely! I have a 110VAC to 12vdc regulated power supply that recently started putting out 20+ vdc... meaning the internal voltage regulator has developed an issue. I was loath to try to diagnose and repair the regulator circuit in it, so this little do-dad is an inexpensive band-aid to make the power supply usable again. Update: received mine today... those red do-dads are not to keep junk out of the in/out screw terminals, they go in the two slots to the right of the display on the top plate , the "legs" straddle micro switches. When the top is in place, they will actuate the switches when depressed. Thanks for posting this video!! 73 de KN6VMK
those little red things are the buttons. Take the top off and push them in the two holes from under the top and they will stick out through the top to push the buttons.
Good video. I have some stuff that the ferrules won't fit into, didn't think to just crush the end a little, usually you can tell that it would fit if it was flatter and wider, so I like that idea.
The red things are for the buttons they go under the top cover. To use for the mode to turn on usb and off and other button us to see the voltages and the current set for and to see what the current is drawing for the buck converter
Thanks for sharing this video and information. De AA4SH I’ve never used a buck converter therefore I especially was happy to learn something new. 73 Steve
Funny coincidence, I just installed one of these on my mobile rpi (#%*&! 5.1v requirement LOL). BTW, the red plastic bits extend the setup buttons through the case🙈. Great vid as always!
I bought two units from Amazon, BOTH were DOA. I am using a transformer 110 volt AC to output DC 14.5 @ 1.5 amps to provide power thru a two trigger relay that supplies input power to the DROK Buck Converter. Is this frying the Volt Adjustment?? The documentation says: "Note: please dont adjust voltage during short circuit" When I first switched it on, the Amp display showed 0.01 amp draw to a test bulb. Then when I turned the Adj-V, it went to Zero. Output from the DROK converter is staying the same as the input voltage. I guess the Feds Postal Inspector fried another of my electronics. I got to get off the LIST!
Just watching this video, the red things that you say are for the plug ports are actually supposed to go next to the display on the right over the buttons.
I got the Drok boost / buck version and planned to use it to maintain constant voltage for my QDX running at 9V and QRP Guys digital transceiver running at 13.8V. I also wanted to monitor / limit the current to protect the QRP rigs. Unfortunately, I found that the current readings were so inaccurate as to be useless and sent it back.
@@chrissewell1608 You can calibrate the voltage and current separately. The voltage was accurate out of the box. The current was high (double my DMM) when the rig was receiving and low (~1/3 my DMM) when transmiiting. Calibration is only a one-point adjustment so it didn't fix this very nonlinear error.
I am sceptical about this but I am regulating a water wheel generator output. Range is from 11 to 18 volts. My question it will this device hold it's quality without malfunction? I can't afford a blackout at night in the woods.
That sounds like it would need more than the 5 amps this thing is rated for I would imagine. But I've been using mine for years without issue for what it's worth.
Yo Mike, I don't think the USB connector is a straight 5V USB but rather whatever the buck converter is set to so be careful plugging USB devices into that connector unless the converter is set to 5V. A friend fried his cellfone on a similar unit when it was set to 12v...
Excellent! Quick question. What size is the barrel connector for the Windcamp Charger? Or did you just cut the Windcamp Charger and put a Powerpole on it?
Hey Mike, have you had a problem or noticed that the battery meter you use in your battery boxes don't track power in? I believe I have the same meter, and when I charge it, it keeps counting up on the Wh and Ah tracker, so I can't see how much power I should have left in the battery. Any thoughts?
They only don't track power when they are turned off. Sounds like yours is working exactly like it should. The meter doesn't care if you're charging or discharging. If there's power going through it, it's going to count it. If you're charging, just note what the capacity used is and then what the meter says when you're done charging. Subtract the two and there you go. Until you fully charge it that is. Then you can reset the whole thing and start over.
I don't think it's really anyones fault. It's just the type of cells that are in the battery. LiPo cells have I think a 3.7V nominal voltage. So 3 in series when fully charge would be at the ~12.2 that they charge up to. You'd be over 15V with a 4 cell pack. Now, could they have put some circuitry to step down the voltage inside the door? Maybe. There seems to be room. That would have been nice, but I understand what they did.
Yes, Drok seems to do VERY nicely with USB voltage gizmos and 12ish volt gizmos. They've done a nice job becoming a reliable brand name.
Mike, this was great and as a result I bought a couple DROK Buck Converters. Very Handy. I appreciate all you do. Just a thought…when I was out in the field with my 818, Bioenno and Buck Converter it occurred to me that bringing along the Buck Converter was “solving a non-problem”. If you’ve got the Bioenno just turn off the Windcamp and plug in the Bioenno. Super fast and keep operating. Especially easy if you’ve got the Windcamp Powerpole mod for the 818 charging socket. Why bring along an extra piece of gear when it’s really not needed?
Mike, very timely! I have a 110VAC to 12vdc regulated power supply that recently started putting out 20+ vdc... meaning the internal voltage regulator has developed an issue. I was loath to try to diagnose and repair the regulator circuit in it, so this little do-dad is an inexpensive band-aid to make the power supply usable again. Update: received mine today... those red do-dads are not to keep junk out of the in/out screw terminals, they go in the two slots to the right of the display on the top plate , the "legs" straddle micro switches. When the top is in place, they will actuate the switches when depressed. Thanks for posting this video!! 73 de KN6VMK
those little red things are the buttons. Take the top off and push them in the two holes from under the top and they will stick out through the top to push the buttons.
You can also use a buck coverter to step down a solar panel for charging :)
I myself am doing this, i cant configure the Buck Converter correctly, any suggestions?
Check the manual, and set the output voltage to the normal charging voltage for your battery type... Is your buck converter adjustable@@starwarskid93
Good video. I have some stuff that the ferrules won't fit into, didn't think to just crush the end a little, usually you can tell that it would fit if it was flatter and wider, so I like that idea.
The red things are for the buttons they go under the top cover. To use for the mode to turn on usb and off and other button us to see the voltages and the current set for and to see what the current is drawing for the buck converter
Thanks for sharing this video and information. De AA4SH I’ve never used a buck converter therefore I especially was happy to learn something new. 73 Steve
A buck convertor would be a handy tool on the test bench, for testing LED lights, strips, fans, and other gizmos! 🛠
I use this same converter for my MT5B Mountain Topper since the max input voltage is 12.0 volts. I normally run the MT5B at 11.5 Volts.
The red plastic pieces are the button insert for the front.
Yep. They sure are. I found that out after editing this video when I finally read the manual lol!
Funny coincidence, I just installed one of these on my mobile rpi (#%*&! 5.1v requirement LOL). BTW, the red plastic bits extend the setup buttons through the case🙈. Great vid as always!
yup, noticed that too!🙃
I was just thinking the same thing.. He is wrong those red plastic bit extenders.. they don't go to the input or output slots...
Ooh...😮 I love a kit build!
The little red things are the buttons to control it
Nice find at that price. Thanks Mike
I liked your video so much that I bought one. what is it called and where to buy the connectors that you have at the entrance and at the exit? 😊😊😊
I bought two units from Amazon,
BOTH were DOA.
I am using a transformer 110 volt AC to output DC 14.5 @ 1.5 amps to provide power thru a two trigger relay that supplies input power to the DROK Buck Converter.
Is this frying the Volt Adjustment??
The documentation says:
"Note: please dont adjust voltage during short circuit"
When I first switched it on, the Amp display showed 0.01 amp draw to a test bulb.
Then when I turned the Adj-V, it went to Zero.
Output from the DROK converter is staying the same as the input voltage.
I guess the Feds Postal Inspector fried another of my electronics.
I got to get off the LIST!
Thank you for this. Can you recommend an assembled version rather than kit form? I’m presently handicapped by time, tools and dexterity 😂
Just watching this video, the red things that you say are for the plug ports are actually supposed to go next to the display on the right over the buttons.
Yes, I found that out after reading the instructions (duh) after making this video.
@@hamradiotube :)
Gracias Mick muy buen video ud si sabe mucho felicitaciones amigo
I got the Drok boost / buck version and planned to use it to maintain constant voltage for my QDX running at 9V and QRP Guys digital transceiver running at 13.8V. I also wanted to monitor / limit the current to protect the QRP rigs. Unfortunately, I found that the current readings were so inaccurate as to be useless and sent it back.
Do you have to calibrate it, first? The Droke battery monitor has to be calibrated, by the user, before using it.
@@chrissewell1608 You can calibrate the voltage and current separately. The voltage was accurate out of the box. The current was high (double my DMM) when the rig was receiving and low (~1/3 my DMM) when transmiiting. Calibration is only a one-point adjustment so it didn't fix this very nonlinear error.
This is just a fancy converter right? No extras features
Any RFI from the converter?
Nope. Been using these for years in the shack.
Awesome Mike!!!!
I am sceptical about this but I am regulating a water wheel generator output. Range is from 11 to 18 volts. My question it will this device hold it's quality without malfunction? I can't afford a blackout at night in the woods.
That sounds like it would need more than the 5 amps this thing is rated for I would imagine. But I've been using mine for years without issue for what it's worth.
That is so funny! I got this same exact one a few months ago 👍
How do you increase the amperage? The instructions suck!
Does anyone know the max amp in I don't want to kill mine was planning on connecting it to a 20 amp car battery for out in the field charging
Yo Mike, I don't think the USB connector is a straight 5V USB but rather whatever the buck converter is set to so be careful plugging USB devices into that connector unless the converter is set to 5V. A friend fried his cellfone on a similar unit when it was set to 12v...
Excellent! Quick question. What size is the barrel connector for the Windcamp Charger? Or did you just cut the Windcamp Charger and put a Powerpole on it?
Cut the wire and put a power pole on it.
@@hamradiotube Thanks. I would have expected nothing less 😀 73
Two little "red things" that you dismiss are very important, they push buttons.
Yes. I learned that immediately after hitting the stop record button when I read the instructions lol!
@K8MRD Mike...what bag is that? I am looking for one for my FT-818ND as well.
It's the Red Rocks Bag. www.amazon.com/shop/k8mrdradiostuff/list/3IDFQ7RUY84A4?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d
Hey Mike, have you had a problem or noticed that the battery meter you use in your battery boxes don't track power in? I believe I have the same meter, and when I charge it, it keeps counting up on the Wh and Ah tracker, so I can't see how much power I should have left in the battery. Any thoughts?
They only don't track power when they are turned off. Sounds like yours is working exactly like it should. The meter doesn't care if you're charging or discharging. If there's power going through it, it's going to count it. If you're charging, just note what the capacity used is and then what the meter says when you're done charging. Subtract the two and there you go. Until you fully charge it that is. Then you can reset the whole thing and start over.
Hard to believe that the Windcamp system is not engineered to charge from automotive sources. That would seem to be a more than substantial oversight.
I don't think it's really anyones fault. It's just the type of cells that are in the battery. LiPo cells have I think a 3.7V nominal voltage. So 3 in series when fully charge would be at the ~12.2 that they charge up to. You'd be over 15V with a 4 cell pack. Now, could they have put some circuitry to step down the voltage inside the door? Maybe. There seems to be room. That would have been nice, but I understand what they did.
Is there a Spec for max Amperage?
Yes. It's in the manual which I threw away. A quick look at the Amazon page says max 5 amps, 4.5 continuous.
Is it pronounced DROK or DROK?
I believe it's "DROK". Just like it's spelled.
🤯🤣 And I thought it was pronounced "DRoK"!?
Drok
Or just use 2 diodes in series. Much simpler.
Not exactly variable.
what does the buck converter convert? the buck to a doe? lol :)
It steps down voltage