a continuation of the last video... great explanation of the process of putting a club onto the shaft and the proper procedures to follow to making the club work and look as best as possible... biggest thing to take away is the importance of the epoxy and using it properly and quick enough
Great vid, love the tech to remove the shaft in part one followed by plain old whacking it back in against the floor :). Been wanting to learn about how to do this and replacing some hybrid shafts with some prolaunch blues. Great start for me, thanks for sharing your knowledge and uploading. Great stuff!!
As far as spine alignment goes, I've been given to understand that, as far as graphite shafts, that the fancy logo work on the shaft is a good alignment guide. You want it either looking up at you as you address the ball, or on the bottom of the club out of sight, like the guy in the vid had it. As far as steel shafts go, I've never heard of spine alignment being all that big a deal.I just noticed there's a spine alignment vid from Palmetto Golf Shop which I will now view.
Couple comments - I mean them to be constructive Mixing does matter- when one has air bubbles in the epoxy, it actually weakens the epoxy. In some circumstance, by alot. The beads, or any other filler, give the epoxy "body" filling the space between shaft and hosel "better". You can use anything - I've used stainless steel in gunwork. 10min is a good middle ground. the faster the set time, the more brittle the epoxy. Great vide
Make sure you have the shaft firmly inside the hozel by tapping in on the ground to make sure it is secure. With fast drying epoxy your newly shafted golf club can be ready to play with in only a few minutes.
can a set of irons with a non-typical hosel be bored out to a larger size to accommodate a larger tipped steel parallel shaft? I have an old set of irons club heads with a very small hosel bore size (I have not found a shaft with that size of a tip) Could those hosels be bored out to accommodate a .370.
This video explains the club re-shafting sequence by attaching the club head back to the shaft. Very important to fully mix the epoxy fully and quickly so it does not cure before application. Very important to bang the butt end of the club on the ground to ensure correct fitting of the new club head. Clean well and allow 15-20 minutes epoxy to cure
@momo671 You abrade to give surface tension. You should also degrease. Tiny surface "grit" means the epoxy has more surface to bite. Think gecko feet or velco.
If you could see the difference between a club face correctly aligned with shaft spine you will never forget the reaction and why you do it. Sort like setting the valve timing on your V8 Chevrolet. Maybe why pros have their clubs set up for them. It just takes a little more time and know how. precise club reaction equals yardage and straightness of ball flight. But what do I know?
Yes, definitely a point there, how, if I buy some prolaunch blues for my 4 hybrids, do I align them properley with the spine when reshafting????????? I have read alot of the same about correct spine alignment and how it has a huge impact on shot dispersion. Maybe in 2010 when these vids were made it wasn't a big thing. We must always remember that as time passes someone somewhere will come out with something that we just gotta do and maybe it's now tuning and alignment??????? Who knows????
a continuation of the last video... great explanation of the process of putting a club onto the shaft and the proper procedures to follow to making the club work and look as best as possible... biggest thing to take away is the importance of the epoxy and using it properly and quick enough
Great vid, love the tech to remove the shaft in part one followed by plain old whacking it back in against the floor :). Been wanting to learn about how to do this and replacing some hybrid shafts with some prolaunch blues. Great start for me, thanks for sharing your knowledge and uploading. Great stuff!!
thanks. i just reshafted my 8 and 9 irons using this video!
As far as spine alignment goes, I've been given to understand that, as far as graphite shafts, that the fancy logo work on the shaft is a good alignment guide. You want it either looking up at you as you address the ball, or on the bottom of the club out of sight, like the guy in the vid had it. As far as steel shafts go, I've never heard of spine alignment being all that big a deal.I just noticed there's a spine alignment vid from Palmetto Golf Shop which I will now view.
Great videos, thank you.
Couple comments - I mean them to be constructive
Mixing does matter- when one has air bubbles in the epoxy, it actually weakens the epoxy. In some circumstance, by alot.
The beads, or any other filler, give the epoxy "body" filling the space between shaft and hosel "better". You can use anything - I've used stainless steel in gunwork.
10min is a good middle ground. the faster the set time, the more brittle the epoxy.
Great vide
Make sure you have the shaft firmly inside the hozel by tapping in on the ground to make sure it is secure. With fast drying epoxy your newly shafted golf club can be ready to play with in only a few minutes.
Thank you great video.
Ben Cheng
Thanks great video
where do you get "nice" paper towels at?
can a set of irons with a non-typical hosel be bored out to a larger size to accommodate a larger tipped steel parallel shaft? I have an old set of irons club heads with a very small hosel bore size (I have not found a shaft with that size of a tip) Could those hosels be bored out to accommodate a .370.
A nice paper towel.
This video explains the club re-shafting sequence by attaching the club head back to the shaft. Very important to fully mix the epoxy fully and quickly so it does not cure before application. Very important to bang the butt end of the club on the ground to ensure correct fitting of the new club head. Clean well and allow 15-20 minutes epoxy to cure
Go Noles!
nice
I noticed you did not remove hardened epoxy from inside the shaft. Should epoxy be removed?
2:29 did something fall out of his nose ? Eye booger ?
@momo671
You abrade to give surface tension. You should also degrease. Tiny surface "grit" means the epoxy has more surface to bite. Think gecko feet or velco.
it also may through off the weight/balance of the club
If you could see the difference between a club face correctly aligned with shaft spine you will never forget the reaction and why you do it. Sort like setting the valve timing on your V8 Chevrolet. Maybe why pros have their clubs set up for them. It just takes a little more time and know how. precise club reaction equals yardage and straightness of ball flight. But what do I know?
Yes, definitely a point there, how, if I buy some prolaunch blues for my 4 hybrids, do I align them properley with the spine when reshafting????????? I have read alot of the same about correct spine alignment and how it has a huge impact on shot dispersion. Maybe in 2010 when these vids were made it wasn't a big thing. We must always remember that as time passes someone somewhere will come out with something that we just gotta do and maybe it's now tuning and alignment??????? Who knows????
Shaft cleaning solvent... so acetone?
You didn't spine align the shaft. Is spine aligning that important?
Exactly what type of epoxy did you use?
Don't you need to spine/true iron shafts?
golf club manufacturers don't do it and a lot of golf shops don't do it as they believe it's a load of rubbish and doesn't do anything
Mm kaaay
hes not even going to check the spine
if I am paying $100 for the shaft I want to see that label at address not hidden around the back !!
where do you get "nice" paper towels at?