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Making great photo & art prints with your new printer. Whats the best paper & software to start with
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ธ.ค. 2023
- Choosing the right software and paper to start making great prints with your new inkjet printer. The basic approach to using printer profiles and different types of paper/card for Epson and Canon inkjet printers.
How to start printing better quality images with a new printer. Why some basic paper and printer software will get you off to a good start.
All my current printer reviews [which include videos and ICC profile info] are at:
www.northlight...
The test images are at:
www.northlight...
For a full index of all my 500+ videos, see:
www.northlight...
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![[UNCUT] หวั่นขาดความเชื่อมั่น ศาล รธน. วินิจฉัยคดีถอนถอนนายกฯ เศรษฐา | คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ | 14 ส.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8hKvQe_vh3o/mqdefault.jpg)
Keith, thank you for opening up a whole new world for me. I've had photo printer for years and thought that was all I needed for great prints.
Glad the info is of use!
There is much more of my print related stuff at:
www.northlight-images.co.uk/photography-articles-and-reviews/printing-paper-reviews-articles/
and a proper [categorised] index of my videos at:
www.northlight-images.co.uk/keith-cooper-photography-videos-index/
I bought a canon 300 and stuck to using the canon software with all the icc profiles built in for the canon papers first print was amazing matched the screen (iMac) your advice on starting out simple was Excellent and really helped me thanks a million
Thanks - glad it helped!
Thanks Keith! I now understand why My prints look like mud, Lol, and that probably my Epson actually can print, thanks to your great information. Appreciate You, learning a lot.
Glad to help
Thank you Keith for a very informative and helpful video. Much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful!
HI Keith! just wanted to say thanks for making these videos. I have always liked to print my own stuff, but my Canon Pro9000 Mark II just wasn't acting right (after years of non use). So I got a Canon Pro-200 and I couldn't be happier with it. I downloaded your color test print image, and used the Canon Print and Layout software as recommended, and the print came out really nice. Then I decided to print a family photo from our summer vacation at the beach. I did some cropping and mild adjustments to the photo, I was amazed at how good this print looked on the letter size Canon Luster paper. I have a Mac Studio and Studio Display (I haven't changed any of the factory settings) and I had wondered just how good things might look. For the first print out of the box, WOW! You have provided some great advise and guidance, thanks!
Thanks! - glad it's been of help!
Paper choice should be based on what you want to use the photos for . If you are making up say wedding albums then use semi gloss or glossy photo paper, if you’re pictures are too be framed and hung on the wall then use matte or lustre paper.
Yes, those are some factors to consider, but there are no hard and fast rules - 'matte' is far too broad a category for example, and I've seen some very good large glossy prints on a wall...
Keith, thank you so much for all your hard work, and GREAT and informative videos. I've just recently bought a Canon Pro 200 and thus far am thrilled with it. I will take your advise and utilizee the test prints suggested, although I've already had great results with Canons' luster paper. I'm now working on the Red River luster papers, and have had good luck as well.. CHEERS!!
Thanks - glad to help!
Another terrific and very informative video - this is a huge help, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! I appreciate your responsiveness to a question from another video. Now I'm going to see if you have videos about color calibration and spectrophotometers.
Some, but many articles as well...
Thanks - I have quite a few articles as well
For an index of the videos, see
www.northlight-images.co.uk/keith-cooper-photography-videos-index/
As the old saying goes, " failing to prepare is preparing to fail " 😋 Best to keep things simple, do your research before even considering buying a printer and learn to walk before you run. The more variables you include when setting up your printer for the first time the harder it is to work out whats causing any potential issues. Initially I'd suggest as you have here, select a semi gloss/lustre paper from the manufacturer of your printer ( be that Canon or Epson ). Select that specific media type in the driver and let the printer control colour management. Keep it super simple. Your printer should produce a good rendition of the test image straight out the box assuming all is well with the initial set up of the printer. By all means experiment with various paper types from 3rd party vendors ( in fact I'd actively encourage it ) using their canned ICC profiles, even create your own custom profiles if you are so inclined! Don't however try to jump in too quickly, make sure you are starting from a good point with everything working ok at the basic level. At least if something doesnt come out right later its much easier to locate what causes the problem ( almost always user error ) 🙂
Apart from the fact that I never test or use 'printer colour management' [other than for B&W print modes] I'd agree
Good review for those of us new to printing, thank you!
Thanks!
Thanks for another great video. I am going to try my older Epson photo printer with the newest software as you suggested to see what happens. My ultimate goal is to figure out how to make better Black and White prints that remind me of my darkroom days. That’s my 2024 project.
Thanks
B&W is very dependent on the printer and inks, so updated software may not be much help. I do have B&W specific sections in all my written printer reviews.
Good informative video Keith.
Thanks 👍
Hi Keith,
First things first - absolutely amazing. Not just this vid but all your vids. The wealth of information and knowledge that you give here and on your website is immeasurable. It is certainly appreciated by me (and undoubtedly everyone else, not least the printer manufacturers).
I'm a relatively new photographer who's in his sunset years. I'd like to print my work, perhaps one day even display it. Although I have shot in colour most of my photos are shot in Black & White. I've been looking at the ΕΤ-8550 but then you said something on this vid regarding printing in black & white that gave me pause and got me thinking. Are there purely monochrome printers out there that are specific to printing only black & white photos?
Glad it's of interest!
If only the makers would give a bit more attention to B&W...
The only way I know of doing this is to use third party inks and that would invalidate warranties.
Often, you also need to use different software for driving the printer as well.
Do some searching on QuadToneRIP
Here's the last time I looked at one such system in detail
www.northlight-images.co.uk/monochromepro-pigment-inks-for-black-and-white-printing/
[ 2005 ;-) ]
I’m a photographer. I have a Canon pixma Ip2070 photo lab quality printer it takes six ink cartridges one is a pigment black. I only ever use Canon inks and photo paper. I have never had any problems with print quality, all my camera gear is Canon. If you want photo lab quality pictures you need a printer with six inks minimum. And stick to generic ink and paper. I have found if I use other ink or paper brands the print quality drops. So I only use Canon ink’s and paper with my canon printer.
When I use to process my own films and photographs I use Jessops chemicals and ilford 20 grain verible silver paper . Now with Digital I use Canon 20grain photo paper. Correction my printer is the Canon pixma ip7250 photo lab bubble jet printer.
Whilst I agree in using OEM inks, it is worth noting that neither Canon or Epson make their own papers. Good third party papers are widespread, especially since the better suppliers almost always supply profiles, at least for better grade printers.
I use OEM papers as part of my printer testing, since they may have profiles and should work consistently.
However, for any large photo prints of worth, I'll usually use 3rd party papers with custom profiles.
As others said, great work, Keith. I would add my personal perspective in that people are inclined to spend a maximised budget on the printer (device) and forget about the costs of ink and high-quality paper.
Imagine we turn that around. I would actually just start with the art paper, myself. I understand and appreciate your position, very valid and relevant in your context, but if I have to make adjustments to the print head in the driver or printer, I may have to do it twice.
I would stay away from lustre paper (assuming it is textured or pebbled) like the proverbial plague ;).
That leaves us with smooth papers: maximum glossy, totally matte, and a smooth matte that still has a bit of shine (probably because it is baryta paper). Acid free, no optical whiteners and assuming that baryta is not in the suspect optical whitener class.
People have to understand that, with high-quality photographic printers, the cost of ink roughly will equate the cost of art paper.
I would allocate a budget to learning to print - the beginner's version of what you do, Keith - in ink and paper that may be wasted, or hopefully not, but that's a bonus. Just be prepared of throwing away failures.
As all these high-quality photographic printers are inkjet (AKA gicleur or giclé - the French words for squirter or squirted because that's essentially what these printers do) come with a starter ink pack that serves to fill the ink lines from the cartridges to the head/nozzles and make a few test prints, people should allocate up to 40% (? just a guess) on the printer price to a complete new set of ink in cartridges that are 100% filled now.
As one may be able to figure out some ink utilisation per square unit of paper surface, I would add the amount of paper to the budget that covers the "real" set of ink cartridges. Buying this in discrete steps is your way to not have to come up with the lump sum in one go.
The average photographer (not talking about the value of their shots) will print less than they anticipate.
So it is tempting to buy a larger printer, but you may never earn the added money back.
If you want to use tools to calibrate, then add these to the print budget too.
IMO every professional should have such calibration, even when you only generate JPEGs from looking at the monitor.
Personally, I use a specific Ilford art paper at 5"*7" that I like for handing snapshots out, rather than sending them through the mail or SM.
That's a smooth glossy but not high gloss paper. No texture and this leaves enough detail for people to closely look at these, even with a loupe.
For all other options, I use Hahnemühle. An excellent product with some snob value too.
For contrasty shots I prefer baryta, for softer toned images matte.
In the old (film) days, we distinguished "chamois" paper from "sepia". Photographic Black & White papers would come in a blueish or brownish black version. The sepia refers to brownish pigmentation at the film grain level. "Chamois on the other hand was about the tone of the paper (not completely white). The sepia effect and variants are easily done in colour adjustments that alter the ink tone balance. Chamois could be done that way too, but I point to it because some papers are not extremely white and this impacts how we see the results. You cannot make a yellowish paper whiter in the printer. And when there is no pure white (absence of ink) in the print, you don;t need yellowish paper either.
Yes, Keith, you know all this, and may have published it somewhere under the Northlight umbrella.
If I handed out loads of 5"*7" prints and had to buy a printer today, then I might add to the shoppinglist the cheaper Epson printer (of the video with 4 ink tanks) - dye probably while the expensive photographic printers use pigment ink. And replace my current smooth Ilford choice by a matte variant.
Today I cannot earn that back and used the budget for a better photographic printer, larger size and pigment inks.
Thanks for that.
I come across few people these days who can accurately the characteristics of old photo papers yet alone all the brand names. I get asked a lot about replicating a 'darkroom look' but few of those who ask can accurately tell me what it actually is in usable terms ;-)
@@KeithCooper - the darkroom look starts with the film, its grain, the way it was processed in the first place. Professional photo school was before around 1971 for me and I was able to look at prints and say what negative and paper had been used with over 60% hit rate. Some were easier than others. Cibachrome was extremely easy. "Film looks" offered in cameras are far from realistic in my mind and memory. I have been looking for a possibility to DIY create an ICC profile by reverse engineering a film correction profile (that tries to fix its weaknesses) into an ICC one that gives the proper deviation away from neutral. But there is no simple solution. My favourite B&W film, Kodak Tri-X looks different at 120 confection from the Hasselblad than at 135 (actually has a finer grain but needs more enlargement for the same size print) from the Nikon and depending on the developer (chemical formula) and process (temperature, motion, replenishment, time) you get very different results, even impacting sensitivity.
With colour, we experimented much less, but I have done the occasional dodge and burn, even when people said it can't be done.
I still remember my first 8"*10" slide on the MacBeth light tray, as-is and with an 8* high quality loupe. Totally flabbergasted. I don't remember what lens I used in that. Maybe Nikon, maybe Schneider, Rodenstock, Zeiss, or a French one.
It was not about the sharpness (detail resolution) but the saturation and gradation.
I am convinced we can approach that with today's professional camera and printer, and software.
I don't know what "darkroom look" means by the way. And would jokingly tell these people to buy and amber darkroom lamp, switch all lights in the photo room off, and the amber on. Then make their prints on their Epson or Canon printer, on whatever paper.
The prints I make today with my Epson A2 photographic printer from my Nikon Z 7ii, especially after I upsampled the images with Gigapixel AI - better than what I could get from the professional laboratory in 1980-1985. At that point I went back to uni for another degree.
Many characteristics of old material and old school processes are in limitations of the material or in artistically motivated choices for working outside the perfect bandwidth.
Take an image by Dutch photographer Anton Corbijn. Contrasty, some detail loss in "the blacks", generally no detail loss in "the whites", generally a high fraction of these blacks and very dark greys then a more subtle gradation in the less dark values, the illusion of very hard light (source), and loads of grain.
I would argue that the trained person/eye can copy that "feel" to the point it is hard to decide if it was done with a photographic paper and process, or a digital with pigment ink printer. If you were to develop a mask or so that mimics the grain, then it has to vary with "density" - more grain in the darker image areas, less in the lighter, of course not visible in the real blacks as there is no detail left. With higher ISO (ASA/DIN) films, Kodak had a variable grain, depending on the amount of light.
Print Corbijn style that on matte Hahnemühle art paper with my kind of printer, and my prejudice about myself is that I cannot tell you if it is "chemical" or "digital" work.
Yes - a lot of this gets mixed up with marketing in the 'effects stuff' ;-)
I've used DxO FilmPack to create some plausible grain to work on a damaged film scan - it looked quite good, but actually a tad 'cleaner' than the real bits [perhaps only because I knew where they were ;-) ]
@@KeithCooper - indeed, to me, film pack is not good enough
There's the problem for people wanting a better 'film look' ...very few people could tell. I certainly couldn't define any of it, other than finding most of them things I just don't want to do to my images :-)
Thanks!
Thanks - that's really appreciated!
BTW, Have you done a video on the best Canon Photo Paper of the Pixma Pro 200 on colour A4 prints? I am trying semi-gloss, lustre & pro platinum which seem pretty good so far when using Canon Print Software & ICC Profiles.
See here for all my PRO-200 info.
www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-pro-200-printer-review/
There is no 'best' - just different looking papers ;-)
Hi Keith. another informative session. Just a quick question you mention using manufacturers photo printing software. I have a canon IP8750, what software would be used for this. i currently print from lightroom - I thought about canon professional print software - but it apparently doesn't work with this printer - or does it?
Thanks - I've never seen that printer I'm afraid, so I don't know.
I'd ask on the printing forum at dpreview.com
Thank you Keith. I’m looking for a printer up to A3 that will take 300gsm art paper or thicker (card) to print high quality copies of my pencil artwork that is quite detailed. You have many informative videos…please can you point me in the right direction. Thank you. Sharon.
ET 8550 - PRO-300 - P700
See the listings at:
www.northlight-images.co.uk/photography-articles-and-reviews/printing-paper-reviews-articles/
Has links to the main written review, which include all the [supplementary] videos
All my videos are indexed by category at:
www.northlight-images.co.uk/keith-cooper-photography-videos-index/
For printing photographs or cards on an inkjet printer the problem is if you use the wrong paper the ink soaks into the paper and lt looks terrible, the paper/card should be resin coated, this will mean that the ink will sit on the surface and not soak into the paper. .
Yes, a 'wrong' paper often looks dreadful, but the answer is not necessarily 'resin coated', but a media with an aqueous inkjet receptor layer. Having the ink sit on the surface can, with some media, cause issues of its own.
Thanks for the great tips. Maybe I can repay you with a tip. The search box on your website isn’t shown when you visit it on a mobile. I think it’s hidden with css to safe space. But now I can’t find if you ever reviewed my printer.
Ah - mobile...
It's been on the to-do list for a long time. I always forget this since I don't use mobile other than as a phone...
@@KeithCooper I understand. As an UX designer I know It doesn’t always get the attention for good reasons. As long you are aware it’s good.
Yes, it's on the 'to-do' list ;-) The problem is that to do any significant web work I need to set aside a week or so, to get back up to speed with development and wordpress stuff@@famousfeem
Dear Kieth, please may I ask your advice regarding using a Mac mini m2 with a non Apple 4k monitor for post editing photos. It appears that any non retina screen will cause scaling problems that will in turn have a negative affect on processing performance. I have even read that this requires the resolution to be reduced in order to accommodate the Mac output stream characteristics. If this is true there seems little point in buying a 4k screen? Sorry to go off topic but you seem to be the kind of guy that will have an honest answer to this
See the screen behind me - it's a 4k BenQ SW272 - the computer on the desk is a new Mac Studio
The real question is what size monitor you are using [4k works fine. There are no scaling problems, just smaller text...]
For 27" I personally prefer a lower res screen - my main mac has two 32" 4k monitors
I have a recent video looking at just this issue...
Many thanks I will find your video and watch it through. @@KeithCooper
Thanks Keith.
So are you saying that "Epson Print Layout" will work on the old Epson R800?
No...
For the P800 I don't know - I reviewed it back in 2015
www.northlight-images.co.uk/epson-surecolor-p800-printer-review/
What I'm saying is that it is supported by far more current printers than listed in the specs on some Epson sites. It might - well worth a try...
I plan to buy an Epson P900. I just looked for the Epson premium lustre paper and could only find a pack of A4 containing 250 pages costing £140. Could you suggest another paper for for initial use please?
Depends where you are...
In the UK, tty Permajet, Paper Spectrum or Fotospeed - look for a lustre photo paper in the 250gsm area. Make sure there are profiles for the P900 available...
@@KeithCooper Thanks very much
Thank You (again) ! Can You name some good paper producer/ distributor ? I struggle to find thick paper (300/350 gsm) that gives good result with Epson printers....
Thanks ... but where?
@@KeithCooper ah, Sorry, Italy, but no problem to buy in Australia iif I find a good One. Mind that I am Just an hobbist, not a professional. I am into Print &Play Boardgames...
Ah, I'm in the UK, so only know of ones here [Fotospeed, PermaJet, Paper Spectrum]@@richardsorge-
When printing the test page you recommended, is it better to print as Perceptual or Relative Colorometric. Also, should Black Point Compensation be turned on? Thanks.
A good point... You print as you would your normal print with whatever profile [and software] you are using- there is no specific setting. I would normally use RC, but one print with P and one with RC will show how your profile handles the difference given the gamut of the image and profile
BPC is advisable for matte papers and RC if available
Other than eyeballing how do I determine if the colors on the test print are accurate without buying a spectrophotometer? Can I expect the colors to match when print size is increased from 8x10 to 17x22 with Epson 900 or Canon PRO-1000 or ...?
The test image is mainly for visual use - a spectro would be of no real use.
See the full description of the image sections on the download page [it contains several other test images]
If you want a quantitative approach them you'll need profiling equipment, and to analyse the profiles - of course this is not necessarily of any use unless you have the knowledge/experience to make use of the numbers. Accurate colour is not necessarily the best looking colour. It's of importance in commercial print, but much less so in most people's photo/art printing.
Print size should make no difference on the same printer
A different printer may well look different - remember that profiles are not about making all prints look the same.
Hope that helps...
Yep, it helps. Confirms my thinking! Enjoy the windy day.@@KeithCooper
Ok,so you print the test image and lets consider its not good. But how can you adjust your software/image to make it better?
In general you never adjust the test image - change print settings maybe, but the image never.
What sorts of settings [printer/paper/profiles/settings] depends on what's wrong with the print of the image
Love your channel and been visiting Northlight Images website since I bought an Epson 4880 nearly 15 years ago.
I have recently bought an Epson XP 15000 as my workflow has changed lately ( I outsource my large prints, and print 1-2 a week for myself ). I’m selling the 4880 as I just don’t use it enough to justify keeping it. Very sad 😔.
Now, I have a calibrated monitor, my 4880 prints look fantastic. But, the XP15000 prints have a slight green cast to them, and are darker than my 4880. I’m using ICC profiles ( for the XP 15000 ).
I’ve downloaded your test images and tried several times, with different papers ( and corresponding profiles ), tried Relative, and Perceptual.
Strange enough, if I print using the “printer manages color”. The images are perfect.
Any advice on why the ICC profiles are causing a green cast and dull photos would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Not sure what's up with the profile printed images - suggests an issue with the printer setup/software.
Have you tried testing via the Epson Print Layout software?
@@KeithCooper Thanks Keith. Yes, I’ve tried the Epson Print layout. I have since read that uninstalling everything and reloading new profiles, print drivers / software etc may help. I’ll try that today. 🤞🏼
I really like what the XP 15000 is printing for the money. Thank you for the review.
If one of my photos has a green or magenta shift in the printed photo should I adjust the slider in Lightroom or should I assume this will happen to all my photos and somehow make a standard adjustment that goes on all photos…I’m assuming that possible 😂.
I see that the canon software allows for some adjustments before printing but so far I’ve only printed like 3 completely different styles of photos because I’m a little intimidated and I would prefer to find the correct way to do this instead of having lot of wasted prints.
Maybe I missed a video where you covered this already…but I haven’t found it.
Thanks 🇨🇦
What sort of image B&W or colour? What printer, what paper, what profiles. Mac or PC?
@@KeithCooper
Colour photo
Canon Pro 200
Canon matte paper…I can get you the exact code if that makes a difference.
The package of paper says to use profile N I think, but I couldn’t find that anywhere so I used the matte photo paper option under the profiles section.
I’m on PC
See my PRO-200 review and the linked videos
www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-pro-200-printer-review/
In particular, the use of profiles and a test image
Dear Sir, I found you by accident, but what a nice accident!
I'm struggling with my Canon Pro9500 MarkII. Don't ask me why because I don't know. Since two weeks the prints are dull and the colors are watery.
Anyway, I already was planning to buy a new printer because my 9500 is rather an older chap.
What do you recommend?
The PRO-300 is the direct successor to this [I reviewed the 9500 years ago] and is vastly more usable [IMHO] having ditched the weird margin constraints and single 'big button' interface
@@KeithCooper should I consider the pro 1000?
Yes, but quite a step up from the PRO-300
I reviewed it when it first came out [long before I started doing video supplements to my reviews]
www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-pro-1000-printer-review/
Given that was 2016, many are expecting it to be replaced next year, but I've no info for certain
Do you have any experience printing on Washi papers? Or any suggestions about using it? Thanks.
Sorry - no-one has ever sent me any to test.
I don't have the budget for actually buying expensive papers just for experimenting I'm afraid.
@@KeithCooper ok.. just thought I’d ask. Thanks.