I’m starting my first ever project of this type. Thanks for sharing all the information. I have to admit, body work very much overwhelms me. At least I have time (and a little bit of money) on my side.
You're killing me Man!!! Every time I think I have my project figured out, you throw a monkey wrench in the gears! You are so right though. Plan ten steps ahead and be prepared to do it more than once. Thank You for making these videos. Funny thing though, even when I do screw something up I know it's not the end of the world (even when its heartbreaking). Thanks for the all your work in helping all of us keep going. Can't wait for the next video.
Great video. Been wtiting out a checklist for what i want to accomplish for my workshop vacation in 2 wks. I currently have my frame squared and leveled, but in terms of order, is it better to box the frame as it sits now, or on all 4 wheels? The difference changes my plans a lot since im back halfing the car for independent rear suspension. I can box it now, or i'll need to finish the rear frame, irs mounting, pinion angle, ride height etc. What makes more sense to you? Thanks again for these videos, they really make a difference 🤙
Thank you!! I’d do chassis welding not on wheels and weld sections of it and alternate your heat zones to move evenly. A jig table is ideal if you have one.
I love this channel. There are only a few worth a chit, and yours is certainly one of them. Currently working on a couple of fenders and plan to remove rust with electrolysis and baking soda, then probably chemical strip the paint off. I hate rust and am using chemical paint remover so I don't have to worry about heat warp from mechanical means. The rust I am concerned about is on the inside of said fenders. It should be fun making a 'small' electrolysis tank and trying it out.
You may find taking the paint off first may be the way to go. That will enable the electrolysis solution to reach the whole panel. I've used Evaporust for parts I can fit in a tub or set up a sprayers plastic and a tub with a pond pump to keep the area wet. I've also used a chelating gel however, with the gel you need to make sure it doesn't dry out. Haven't tried Electrolysis yet.
Thankyou for making another super helpful video. Really appreciate you passing on the lessons you have learned and your practical advice. I’ve been restoring a Unimog truck cab for about 2.5 years. I had been sealing the bare metal with a sandable epoxy primer but learned the hard way that it is critical to seal any bare metal then and there, not leave it till later... This is what happened: I hadn’t stripped the whole cab roof just the areas where the rain gutters had rusted on the pinch welds so I’d welded new patches in those. I noticed a few tiny pimples in some areas of the existing paint (which is 2k Epoxy) I stripped those spots with a paint stripper disk and discovered rust spots with little spider web like fingers of rust extending out 10-20mm under the surrounding paint. I’m guessing there was an issue with the paint application at some point that allowed some moisture in to these spots? I stripped the whole roof and used a chelating gel on those spots but didn’t get to epoxying prime it. I covered it with a sheet and a tarp but it was outdoors. I then had a busy 5 months so when I got back to it the whole roof was badly rusted. I wire wheeled it then took many hours to use a lot more chelating gel to clean that up. It had a lot of small pits from the rust so I made sure those were all back to bare metal ( the chelating gel is great for this) then epoxy primed it. I then sprayed it with spray filler and let that cure then sanded it so the only spray filler was in the pit holes. Then resprayed with epoxy primer. So much wasted time & $. But fortunately was in a part of the vehicle that was easy to access and fix properly. One thing I’m still trying to figure out is how much primer to mix when resealing small areas? Is that something you have covered in a video I may not have seen yet or are you able to share a rule of thumb to allow you to judge the amount to mix?. I seem to either not make enough and have to then mix more or make too much and waste half of it!
Your channel is the most informative channel on body and paint available. Great work. Thanks.
I appreciate that! Thank hou
I’m starting my first ever project of this type. Thanks for sharing all the information. I have to admit, body work very much overwhelms me. At least I have time (and a little bit of money) on my side.
You can do it!
You're killing me Man!!! Every time I think I have my project figured out, you throw a monkey wrench in the gears! You are so right though. Plan ten steps ahead and be prepared to do it more than once. Thank You for making these videos. Funny thing though, even when I do screw something up I know it's not the end of the world (even when its heartbreaking). Thanks for the all your work in helping all of us keep going. Can't wait for the next video.
Thank you ! You got this!
Great video Travis, thank you so much for what you do, it does not go unnoticed 🤝🙏🙏🤝
I appreciate that!
I love this content. Thanks mate 👍
Thank you!
Great info yet again! Thank you SC!
Thank you!
Good wisdom.....
Glad you think so!
Great video. Been wtiting out a checklist for what i want to accomplish for my workshop vacation in 2 wks. I currently have my frame squared and leveled, but in terms of order, is it better to box the frame as it sits now, or on all 4 wheels? The difference changes my plans a lot since im back halfing the car for independent rear suspension. I can box it now, or i'll need to finish the rear frame, irs mounting, pinion angle, ride height etc.
What makes more sense to you?
Thanks again for these videos, they really make a difference 🤙
Thank you!! I’d do chassis welding not on wheels and weld sections of it and alternate your heat zones to move evenly. A jig table is ideal if you have one.
I really would like to see some video or photos on the 49 Willys metal work such as extending the cab and making up new body panels .
We will be doing some metal shaping videos soon!! Not on the Willy’s but on others!
I love this channel. There are only a few worth a chit, and yours is certainly one of them. Currently working on a couple of fenders and plan to remove rust with electrolysis and baking soda, then probably chemical strip the paint off. I hate rust and am using chemical paint remover so I don't have to worry about heat warp from mechanical means. The rust I am concerned about is on the inside of said fenders. It should be fun making a 'small' electrolysis tank and trying it out.
You may find taking the paint off first may be the way to go. That will enable the electrolysis solution to reach the whole panel.
I've used Evaporust for parts I can fit in a tub or set up a sprayers plastic and a tub with a pond pump to keep the area wet. I've also used a chelating gel however, with the gel you need to make sure it doesn't dry out. Haven't tried Electrolysis yet.
Good luck!
You use VP2050 as high build primer?
Yes! 👍🏻
Thank you sir.
Thankyou for making another super helpful video. Really appreciate you passing on the lessons you have learned and your practical advice.
I’ve been restoring a Unimog truck cab for about 2.5 years. I had been sealing the bare metal with a sandable epoxy primer but learned the hard way that it is critical to seal any bare metal then and there, not leave it till later...
This is what happened: I hadn’t stripped the whole cab roof just the areas where the rain gutters had rusted on the pinch welds so I’d welded new patches in those. I noticed a few tiny pimples in some areas of the existing paint (which is 2k Epoxy) I stripped those spots with a paint stripper disk and discovered rust spots with little spider web like fingers of rust extending out 10-20mm under the surrounding paint. I’m guessing there was an issue with the paint application at some point that allowed some moisture in to these spots?
I stripped the whole roof and used a chelating gel on those spots but didn’t get to epoxying prime it. I covered it with a sheet and a tarp but it was outdoors. I then had a busy 5 months so when I got back to it the whole roof was badly rusted. I wire wheeled it then took many hours to use a lot more chelating gel to clean that up.
It had a lot of small pits from the rust so I made sure those were all back to bare metal ( the chelating gel is great for this) then epoxy primed it. I then sprayed it with spray filler and let that cure then sanded it so the only spray filler was in the pit holes. Then resprayed with epoxy primer. So much wasted time & $. But fortunately was in a part of the vehicle that was easy to access and fix properly.
One thing I’m still trying to figure out is how much primer to mix when resealing small areas? Is that something you have covered in a video I may not have seen yet or are you able to share a rule of thumb to allow you to judge the amount to mix?. I seem to either not make enough and have to then mix more or make too much and waste half of it!
Yeah it’s a learning curve for sure. No just track how much you mix each time and how much area you get covered. Just comes in time with practice.
Great presentation and I think as a DIYI fella you hit ALL the points of a home project.. Kudos to you for a really good video.!
Glad you enjoyed it thank you!
Love these
Thank you