I would bet this would make a real killer lawn mower Sir. I am amazed that you got all those wrapped wires around the poles. THIS GAVE ME AN IDEA TOO. !!!!!!
Just what I needed, thank you! I'm planning on running mine as a motor, but I tested it generating power (with untouched windings) and I managed to get upto 72 volts with it spinning it by hand! I can see why they are so popular as generators!
Hi Logan! Yep, they definitely do put out a lot of voltage when factory wound. Careful as a prolonged shock above 100V is pretty dangerous/lethal (particularly with AC from a generator) That's why we rewire them as it is a lot safer, and easier to work with for charging 12/24/48V systems. Cheers
Very clever but why did you re wind it? I’ve watched a few of these f&p stator motor vids now. But no one explains why people are re wiring the stators or how to calculate this for your requirements. I have a 42 pole 60 series and pelton coming but now but I’m unclear how or even if I need to rewire it to simply charge (through rectifiers) a 12v deep cycle battery, perhaps 10amps off grid occasionally when I’m camping. Can anyone help please?
Main reason is to reduce its output voltage and increase the current. This is done by putting more of the coils in each phase in parallel. This method I used here is completely stripping and rewinding the coils to greatly reduce turns and increase copper thickness, which in turn should decrease generator voltage and increase current by a huge amount (compared to factory stator). Common rewiring method/s: On the 42 pole stator there are 14 coils in each 'phase' - which are all connected on series from factory. An example of a popular rewiring would be to have 7 groups in parallel of 2 in series. It's hard to know for sure what exact wiring you should use as there are so many different options. There is a helpful table of rewiring schemes for certain voltages and a whole page on the rewiring on: www.thebackshed.com/Windmill/FPRewire.asp Hope this helps. I'm happy to answer any questions :) Cheers
Sounds like you'll be running at least 300-400RPM with a pelton turbine? For that you'll most likely want to go for 7 coils in parallel per phase (7 x 2C) or all coils in phase (14 x 1C) to get a 12V low voltage output. Trial and error is the best way to learn and configure for your system. If the generator will be running often, you'll probably want the output voltage to be around 16V to maximise efficiency for charging Lead Acid 12V batteries. Although as long as voltage is above charging voltage of the batteries you should be sweet. Yes you most likely need to use a 3 phase bridge rectifier diode assembly to convert 3 phase AC to DC - if you are charging a battery directly from the generator. Thanks and good luck :)
Not sure what you are measuring at 3:30, the way the multimeter is connected you are measuring the voltage between phases although you have meter set to Amps.
Steve, if you need to increase the speed of the motor you need to take the coils out of series. I haven't done it on my 36 pole ones but have on the 18 pole units. As my VFD is AC, I can test without batteries. With the 18 pole unit split down to 2 coils in series, that gives me 3 phases of 2 coils in triplicate, paralleled. How much of a difference did it make? At 400 Hz, the motor now turns at 2000 RPM whereas it was designed as an 800 RPM motor at around 500HZ. Did have to cut back the Voltage to 150 VAC from the 240 as it would get the wires hot in the two coil setup. At 750 RPM, turning as a generator, it will load up at 300+ Watts. Which with Al wire, isn't bad.
Yeah the higher the amount of poles the faster the controller must switch to move it. You are limited to a degree on switching speed from controller. It's interesting how you did this with that coil wire. Making only 4 turns. Doesn't seem like alot to me... interesting idea though. I'm rewiring a 18 pole for a generator and have 16ga, 19ga, 24 and 26. Planned using 19ga with around 100 turns so I knew it was going to take awhile. Never thought of doing like this. Just am not sure if winding it regularly would be more or less efficient so a gen
Ayy chur Angry Ram, it's pretty powerful I think it's current output can be up to 50 amps or more. I had a play with it on my pyrolysis with a 2 stroke and blew the bridge rectifier diode supposedly rated for 50a fast, so didn't manage to get a proper current output measurement on all 3 phases. I think the voltage was good at around 35v at 1500-2000rpm. I'll link the video below
Stefan, Interested to understand about using multiple wire strands (34) 4 turns on each. Never seen that anywhere before. Where did that idea come from? Where can II find more info about that. I want to rewire a F&P for 48 volt at the lowest revs. Is it the amount of copper more than the continuous length of copper which is wound on each pole? Brilliant work mate.
It was experimental, but turned out pretty well. From memory, I think you would need more like 6-8 turns for 48v at 1000RPM. I actually ended up using less wire than original as coil packing density of smaller wire is greater. They'll produce a lot more current, but much lower voltage, so for short distance power transmission would work well (removes need for transformer/step down converter). However may be more effective to leave higher voltages for smaller wiring and longer distances with less I^2 R heating losses. Cheers
The original F&P motor will produce 48V at pretty low RPM (200-300). Current output maximum 2-3A as small effective copper thickness. With factory wound F&P, it is also easier to 'saturate' the stator and overspeed once maximum current output is reached. (Excess energy goes into heating losses and kinetic energy of rotor turning the generator). You can feel this effect when setting up a bench test, short circuit all motor phases and turn the rotor, it will have maximum resistance at short circuit current - but with enough force it will spin up easier past that point. Cheers.
@@stefanstoove9254 Thanks for the reply. Worth experimenting with a few trial segments. I have a test bench with DC motor driving a F&P from which I can collect data from different configurations. One more question, How do you think an axial flux type generator would perform with coils wound multi strand? I'm still Interested to understand how using multiple wire strands works.
I think the reason you would go for multistrand is to pack more copper in and improve power and efficiency. Lots of smaller diameter wires will fill a space more than 1 large wire, as well as being easier to bend and wind around a stator pole. Cheers
Fantastic work sir. Just a question about the doubling of the wire: Is it one continuous wire doubled over 32x and soldered at each end ? Or are the strands cut? Is this essential to achieve the high current output or would the 6x2c configuration (I have a 36p) be enough for 20/30 amps at 12v? Thanks for your time. Subscribed to your channel and following your vids, bravo.. J
Yep I doubled over the continuous wire as I found it easier, but if you know the length I'm sure it can be measured cut and wound together. In future I would wind all 3 lengths of wires from the motor together and double that over instead of repeating the process 3 times. Running as a motor, 6 x 2c could handle 15a continuous, I would go to 12 x 1c configuration for 30a (AC phase current). It depends on how much cooling and ventilation the motor gets, such as on a bike - the wind often cools the motor during riding so can run more power. Thanks
You can leave it as it is - a handcrank generator will spin slowly so this voltage is needed - it can be hooked up directly to a lightbulb and it should light up. Thanks
You should replace the (Card board ) With, cut strips of, milk jug, plastic. That cardboard, has No insulation Property's at all. The milk jug plastic Can be cut in wide strips, that fit good, after folding them a time or two... But, Great job,..
Hi, the stator has a diameter of 250mm, I reused the wire from the stator (0.6mm or 0.8mm copper) and coiled it up with more strands in parallel to increase current capability and power. Cheers
Hi there. Thanks.. In Brazil is not easy to find these smart drive motors. On the top of each 42 coil do you have what kind of metal? I have resin at home, Iam studying how to create that plastic structure. Do you know where can I find dimensions. The site back shed is offline, dude
@@deyvidchaves1 Hi there, each pole has an iron laminate inner core with plastic coating over the top which forms the stator. The iron stacked laminate helps increase magnetization strength of the poles while reducing eddy currents and energy losses within the motor. Yeah as these are NZ brand machines, some countries will not have them unfortunately, however I'm sure there will be similar direct drive motors out there from other brands, most likely with different coil count and size, but the same general idea. Hmm, thats strange, maybe there is restricted access from different countries? Its always worked fine from in NZ, but I've heard of a couple times people cannot access it. Cheers
@@stefanstoove9254 I can buy It for R$400,00 -R$800,00 reais in Brazil. You see It's is expensive..and has a few pieces. I want to use it for an ebike project. 48v, 20 A is it easy to set that rewiring for that? Thanks man 👍👍
Yeah it sounds quite a lot for a scrap motor. If you do end up getting one, it makes it a lot easier to get the bearings and shaft pieces as well as they are the main components in the Assembly. We get so many of them here I would love to help out but the distance is quite far. I'm working at a place where we are trying to create kits from all the old washing machine parts to encourage people into diy electrical generators. Cheers
This is from a Fisher and Paykel washing machine. It is also known as a BLDC washing machine motor, SmartDrive motor, F&P motor, 3 phase washer motor, etc. Thanks
Ahah that was just showing the power of the electromotive forces :) However, an increase in current with same number of turns will increase this magnetic field. But the stator does not retain the magnetism, as I'm guessing this would cause the magnet rotor to have issues. Cheers
Stefan Stoové one more real quick one. Do we have to have the position sensors hooked up? I try both my motors and getting no spin a/c or d/c just mag lock &little move.??? Maybe go with different moto control
Yea any cheap BLDC brushless controller (sensorless or sensored dual mode) should work. To hook up the sensors though, I found I had to change the original hall effect sensors on the 42 pole stator to new motor halls which range 0 - 5V I think. The 36 pole motor seemed to work with its factory hall sensors which is cool. I found you can run them on 1000 to 1500W without major rewiring changes, but will need most coils in parallel to run off of 48V - 96V. Also, they have a huge amount of starting torque when you get the sensors hooked up, its unbelievable, I rigged one up to the transmision of my Toyota MR2 and it was able to move it along the driveway slowly but surely up to gear 3/4! Thanks
So can your wiring config with 1800+ RPM provide enough voltage to charge 48v battery system sir? I have some of these smart drive motors and think about making a pelton wheel for my battery pack. Thanks in advance.
1800rpm with 4 turns per coil might do around 30-50V on the 36 pole stator, although you'd have to test and configure for your application as I couldn't tell you off the top of my head. Yeah they are fantastic motors as well as generators and relatively easy to wire differently. 1800rpm is 1.8x normal operating speed so things like balance, bearings and vibration become a lot more important. Thanks.
th-cam.com/video/PvWrTdvoU3o/w-d-xo.html In that video, I think I had 12 turns per pole 0.8mm copper (8 strand) around 9 minutes in, voltages of around 32V at about 1000RPM. Thanks
Thanks for the reply. I watched that video, it was very promising with 35v max at over 50a. So I think I have to reconfigure my battery system or leave it as it is and use some boost converter with some energy loss. Stressing the generator with 1.8x its normal operating rpm doesn't seem like a good idea.
Sounds a good idea to try completely rewind something similar maybe, then you can do the standard rewiring like 2x6C, 3x4C. I have found a little more difficult to remove the enamel from multiple strands to get good connection. As mentioned, I can't tell you for sure what voltage to expect when fully rewired like this as it depends on many factors - copper/aluminium, effective wire diameter (combined diameter of all strands), iron core quality, number of poles per phase, number of turns per coil, how closely packed coils are, and so on. It can take many days to do, but very rewarding to get right voltages and current at a higher RPM. Star to Delta is easy to change with standard wiring, but more difficult once you cut the stator into 2x6C or 3x4C wiring for example. Thanks and good luck.
some late info. motor, yes. generator/pma, NO. these motors are NOT well-suited to conversion to pmas. why. 1) the phases in a pma stator Should consist of THREE and only three coils; connected in series. Not Fourteen. 2) in a pma, the number of poles on the rotor Should be a Multiple of FOUR. 3) the Necessity of using this 4 / 3 Ratio in a pma is ABSOLUTE. cheers googletranslate
I would bet this would make a real killer lawn mower Sir. I am amazed that you got all those wrapped wires around the poles. THIS GAVE ME AN IDEA TOO. !!!!!!
Good luck :)
Just what I needed, thank you! I'm planning on running mine as a motor, but I tested it generating power (with untouched windings) and I managed to get upto 72 volts with it spinning it by hand! I can see why they are so popular as generators!
I will, thank you!
I saw a video of someone generating close to 1000 volts, so I don't want to do that. th-cam.com/video/uGB80IZz9VE/w-d-xo.html
Hi Logan!
Yep, they definitely do put out a lot of voltage when factory wound. Careful as a prolonged shock above 100V is pretty dangerous/lethal (particularly with AC from a generator)
That's why we rewire them as it is a lot safer, and easier to work with for charging 12/24/48V systems.
Cheers
Awesome bro, earned a sub!
Thank for the info and video sir 😍
you are welcome, danke 😎
Very clever but why did you re wind it? I’ve watched a few of these f&p stator motor vids now. But no one explains why people are re wiring the stators or how to calculate this for your requirements. I have a 42 pole 60 series and pelton coming but now but I’m unclear how or even if I need to rewire it to simply charge (through rectifiers) a 12v deep cycle battery, perhaps 10amps off grid occasionally when I’m camping. Can anyone help please?
Main reason is to reduce its output voltage and increase the current.
This is done by putting more of the coils in each phase in parallel.
This method I used here is completely stripping and rewinding the coils to greatly reduce turns and increase copper thickness, which in turn should decrease generator voltage and increase current by a huge amount (compared to factory stator).
Common rewiring method/s:
On the 42 pole stator there are 14 coils in each 'phase' - which are all connected on series from factory. An example of a popular rewiring would be to have 7 groups in parallel of 2 in series.
It's hard to know for sure what exact wiring you should use as there are so many different options.
There is a helpful table of rewiring schemes for certain voltages and a whole page on the rewiring on:
www.thebackshed.com/Windmill/FPRewire.asp
Hope this helps.
I'm happy to answer any questions :)
Cheers
Sounds like you'll be running at least 300-400RPM with a pelton turbine?
For that you'll most likely want to go for 7 coils in parallel per phase (7 x 2C) or all coils in phase (14 x 1C) to get a 12V low voltage output.
Trial and error is the best way to learn and configure for your system.
If the generator will be running often, you'll probably want the output voltage to be around 16V to maximise efficiency for charging Lead Acid 12V batteries. Although as long as voltage is above charging voltage of the batteries you should be sweet.
Yes you most likely need to use a 3 phase bridge rectifier diode assembly to convert 3 phase AC to DC - if you are charging a battery directly from the generator.
Thanks and good luck :)
Stefan Stoové thanks so much!
Very nice
Cheers mate
hello good morning, you are very smart. Congratulations.
Not sure what you are measuring at 3:30, the way the multimeter is connected you are measuring the voltage between phases although you have meter set to Amps.
Short circuit current. Measuring amperage. Cheers!
Steve, if you need to increase the speed of the motor you need to take the coils out of series. I haven't done it on my 36 pole ones but have on the 18 pole units. As my VFD is AC, I can test without batteries. With the 18 pole unit split down to 2 coils in series, that gives me 3 phases of 2 coils in triplicate, paralleled. How much of a difference did it make? At 400 Hz, the motor now turns at 2000 RPM whereas it was designed as an 800 RPM motor at around 500HZ. Did have to cut back the Voltage to 150 VAC from the 240 as it would get the wires hot in the two coil setup. At 750 RPM, turning as a generator, it will load up at 300+ Watts. Which with Al wire, isn't bad.
Yeah the higher the amount of poles the faster the controller must switch to move it.
You are limited to a degree on switching speed from controller.
It's interesting how you did this with that coil wire.
Making only 4 turns. Doesn't seem like alot to me... interesting idea though.
I'm rewiring a 18 pole for a generator and have 16ga, 19ga, 24 and 26.
Planned using 19ga with around 100 turns so I knew it was going to take awhile. Never thought of doing like this. Just am not sure if winding it regularly would be more or less efficient so a gen
Interesting.. Have you tried this as a generator yet?
Ayy chur Angry Ram,
it's pretty powerful I think it's current output can be up to 50 amps or more. I had a play with it on my pyrolysis with a 2 stroke and blew the bridge rectifier diode supposedly rated for 50a fast, so didn't manage to get a proper current output measurement on all 3 phases.
I think the voltage was good at around 35v at 1500-2000rpm.
I'll link the video below
Not the same - but similar testing around 9:00 with a stator I rewound with more turns per pole -
th-cam.com/video/PvWrTdvoU3o/w-d-xo.html
Cheers
@@stefanstoove9254 Nice one, you've got some good ideas.. I might have a little play with a stator and see what I can squeeze out of it
@@Rambro-angryram Awesome to find you here, you introduced me to these smartdrives! Can't wait to see a video if you do it. Cheers mate
do you stl play with caprine?
Great could you please tell us what size of the wire did you use?
why did it need to be re-wired? Could it not already be used as motor generator as-is?
Stefan, Interested to understand about using multiple wire strands (34) 4 turns on each. Never seen that anywhere before. Where did that idea come from? Where can II find more info about that. I want to rewire a F&P for 48 volt at the lowest revs. Is it the amount of copper more than the continuous length of copper which is wound on each pole?
Brilliant work mate.
It was experimental, but turned out pretty well.
From memory, I think you would need more like 6-8 turns for 48v at 1000RPM.
I actually ended up using less wire than original as coil packing density of smaller wire is greater.
They'll produce a lot more current, but much lower voltage, so for short distance power transmission would work well (removes need for transformer/step down converter). However may be more effective to leave higher voltages for smaller wiring and longer distances with less I^2 R heating losses.
Cheers
The original F&P motor will produce 48V at pretty low RPM (200-300). Current output maximum 2-3A as small effective copper thickness.
With factory wound F&P, it is also easier to 'saturate' the stator and overspeed once maximum current output is reached. (Excess energy goes into heating losses and kinetic energy of rotor turning the generator).
You can feel this effect when setting up a bench test, short circuit all motor phases and turn the rotor, it will have maximum resistance at short circuit current - but with enough force it will spin up easier past that point.
Cheers.
@@stefanstoove9254 Thanks for the reply. Worth experimenting with a few trial segments. I have a test bench with DC motor driving a F&P from which I can collect data from different configurations.
One more question, How do you think an axial flux type generator would perform with coils wound multi strand? I'm still Interested to understand how using multiple wire strands works.
I think the reason you would go for multistrand is to pack more copper in and improve power and efficiency. Lots of smaller diameter wires will fill a space more than 1 large wire, as well as being easier to bend and wind around a stator pole.
Cheers
@@stefanstoove9254 I
You can use thin G-10 fiberglass board for insulation instead of cardboard
Yep good idea. I think I've had some occasionally from stripped battery pack housings. Would definitely consider.
Cheers
Fantastic work sir. Just a question about the doubling of the wire: Is it one continuous wire doubled over 32x and soldered at each end ? Or are the strands cut?
Is this essential to achieve the high current output or would the 6x2c configuration (I have a 36p) be enough for 20/30 amps at 12v?
Thanks for your time.
Subscribed to your channel and following your vids, bravo.. J
Yep I doubled over the continuous wire as I found it easier, but if you know the length I'm sure it can be measured cut and wound together.
In future I would wind all 3 lengths of wires from the motor together and double that over instead of repeating the process 3 times.
Running as a motor, 6 x 2c could handle 15a continuous, I would go to 12 x 1c configuration for 30a (AC phase current).
It depends on how much cooling and ventilation the motor gets, such as on a bike - the wind often cools the motor during riding so can run more power.
Thanks
Hi do you have a manual for that by any chance? What size of wire did you use?
This was done with the same wire? How did you you do the wire
Yes. I removed the wire from one stator, and doubled it a few times to produce a thicker winding.
Cheers
i'm trying to make a handcrank generator with this type of motor, do I have to rewire it?
You can leave it as it is - a handcrank generator will spin slowly so this voltage is needed - it can be hooked up directly to a lightbulb and it should light up.
Thanks
You should replace the (Card board )
With, cut strips of, milk jug, plastic.
That cardboard, has No insulation
Property's at all. The milk jug plastic
Can be cut in wide strips, that fit good, after folding them a time or two... But, Great job,..
nice video. thanks
So nice of you :)
Cheers!
Hello
I got 2 stator of 36...I will try to make a 72 pole stator with better magnets. Wath do you think about it?
@@stefanstoove9254 no Stefan ,I ll try to make one big 72 poles stator
Stefan how did you get 32 strands ?
Did you add 31 wires ?
@@stefanstoove9254 thank you man
@@stefanstoove9254 how did you remove insulation please ?
What that stator diameter? And which kind of wire do you use for it?
Hi, the stator has a diameter of 250mm, I reused the wire from the stator (0.6mm or 0.8mm copper) and coiled it up with more strands in parallel to increase current capability and power.
Cheers
Hi there. Thanks.. In Brazil is not easy to find these smart drive motors. On the top of each 42 coil do you have what kind of metal? I have resin at home, Iam studying how to create that plastic structure. Do you know where can I find dimensions. The site back shed is offline, dude
@@deyvidchaves1 Hi there,
each pole has an iron laminate inner core with plastic coating over the top which forms the stator.
The iron stacked laminate helps increase magnetization strength of the poles while reducing eddy currents and energy losses within the motor.
Yeah as these are NZ brand machines, some countries will not have them unfortunately, however I'm sure there will be similar direct drive motors out there from other brands, most likely with different coil count and size, but the same general idea.
Hmm, thats strange, maybe there is restricted access from different countries? Its always worked fine from in NZ, but I've heard of a couple times people cannot access it.
Cheers
@@stefanstoove9254 I can buy It for R$400,00 -R$800,00 reais in Brazil. You see It's is expensive..and has a few pieces. I want to use it for an ebike project. 48v, 20 A is it easy to set that rewiring for that? Thanks man 👍👍
Yeah it sounds quite a lot for a scrap motor. If you do end up getting one, it makes it a lot easier to get the bearings and shaft pieces as well as they are the main components in the Assembly.
We get so many of them here I would love to help out but the distance is quite far.
I'm working at a place where we are trying to create kits from all the old washing machine parts to encourage people into diy electrical generators.
Cheers
How many Amp's without load?
Usually around 0.5 to 2a depending on the speed.
The only load really is the wind resistance and friction on the bearings and electrical inefficiency
How long did this whole process take?
It took me quite a few days.
what kind of washing machine motor?
This is from a Fisher and Paykel washing machine.
It is also known as a BLDC washing machine motor, SmartDrive motor, F&P motor, 3 phase washer motor, etc.
Thanks
@@stefanstoove9254 btw i subs your channel. please see my video to about micro hidro power.
dont forget to subs. thkyu
So this is 1 x 14c?
Yes, but with much less turns per pole, hence lower voltage and thicker wire for high current.
Does the controller with the knew windings cause the stator to become electromagnetic? If
Ahah that was just showing the power of the electromotive forces :)
However, an increase in current with same number of turns will increase this magnetic field. But the stator does not retain the magnetism, as I'm guessing this would cause the magnet rotor to have issues.
Cheers
Stefan Stoové one more real quick one. Do we have to have the position sensors hooked up? I try both my motors and getting no spin a/c or d/c just mag lock &little move.??? Maybe go with different moto control
Yea any cheap BLDC brushless controller (sensorless or sensored dual mode) should work. To hook up the sensors though, I found I had to change the original hall effect sensors on the 42 pole stator to new motor halls which range 0 - 5V I think.
The 36 pole motor seemed to work with its factory hall sensors which is cool.
I found you can run them on 1000 to 1500W without major rewiring changes, but will need most coils in parallel to run off of 48V - 96V.
Also, they have a huge amount of starting torque when you get the sensors hooked up, its unbelievable, I rigged one up to the transmision of my Toyota MR2 and it was able to move it along the driveway slowly but surely up to gear 3/4!
Thanks
Stefan Stoové 10 4 I got ya thank you
So can your wiring config with 1800+ RPM provide enough voltage to charge 48v battery system sir? I have some of these smart drive motors and think about making a pelton wheel for my battery pack. Thanks in advance.
1800rpm with 4 turns per coil might do around 30-50V on the 36 pole stator, although you'd have to test and configure for your application as I couldn't tell you off the top of my head.
Yeah they are fantastic motors as well as generators and relatively easy to wire differently.
1800rpm is 1.8x normal operating speed so things like balance, bearings and vibration become a lot more important.
Thanks.
th-cam.com/video/PvWrTdvoU3o/w-d-xo.html
In that video, I think I had 12 turns per pole 0.8mm copper (8 strand) around 9 minutes in, voltages of around 32V at about 1000RPM.
Thanks
Thanks for the reply. I watched that video, it was very promising with 35v max at over 50a. So I think I have to reconfigure my battery system or leave it as it is and use some boost converter with some energy loss. Stressing the generator with 1.8x its normal operating rpm doesn't seem like a good idea.
Sounds a good idea to try completely rewind something similar maybe, then you can do the standard rewiring like 2x6C, 3x4C.
I have found a little more difficult to remove the enamel from multiple strands to get good connection.
As mentioned, I can't tell you for sure what voltage to expect when fully rewired like this as it depends on many factors - copper/aluminium, effective wire diameter (combined diameter of all strands), iron core quality, number of poles per phase, number of turns per coil, how closely packed coils are, and so on.
It can take many days to do, but very rewarding to get right voltages and current at a higher RPM.
Star to Delta is easy to change with standard wiring, but more difficult once you cut the stator into 2x6C or 3x4C wiring for example.
Thanks and good luck.
Аха, без нагрузки хоть что напругу будет показывать! Для чистоты эксперимента необходимо было на нагрузке померять ток и напряжение
Ur running the machine in reverse, the knofes won't cut in that way.
Yeah can reverse direction by switching 2 of the 3 motor wires
some late info. motor, yes. generator/pma, NO. these
motors are NOT well-suited to conversion to pmas. why.
1) the phases in a pma stator Should consist of THREE
and only three coils; connected in series. Not Fourteen.
2) in a pma, the number of poles on the rotor Should be a
Multiple of FOUR.
3) the Necessity of using this 4 / 3 Ratio in a pma is
ABSOLUTE. cheers googletranslate
OK, thanks for the advice!
😶😶😶😶 Hi
chur
Very nice