Thank you very much. Im getting sick of all the overthinking I have been doing about gardening in general. My grandfather stuck crap in the good earth and we ate. No chemicals, no fertilizer no weed killers. Just dirt and mulch and water. I'm done reading and watching the latest fad.
I'm on my third season in my backyard. Every season I have half a dozen new friends try and tell me that I need to provide electricity to my garden. It's a new secret to boost growth 🙄🙄🙄
@@sanniepstein4835 Amen to that. if it aint broke, don't fix it. Good, home made compost and the knowledge required to make it is all any gardener needs really. With black gold it all falls into place.
I plant dwarf marigolds with tomatoes, but NOT for nematodes, simply because I seem to have fewer aphids when I do. The marigolds and toms are in the polytunnel. As soon as I started planting marigolds near the entrance my aphid issues stopped. Not very scientific, but that my N=1 experience. My tunnel is 12 years old. For 9 years I suffered bad aphid attacks. For the last three I've planted marigolds and have had little to no aphid damage /shrug
Exactly! If a method/companion plant doesn't sounds like it will completely "nuke" the garden...then why not try it...especially if you have a pest problem?! This thing about not existing studies to support "X" claim makes me cringe so hard. You don't need a study for absolutely everything. (And some studies are not reported and some are if they found in the study what they were looking for) Just try planting something near other thing if that other thing looks like doesn't grow too well (but mostly for a pest infestation) and not wait for the study that says that """drinking 2.2Liters of water/day makes you live 20 more years compared with the ones that drink 2.1Liters/day"""!!!
The current thought on this is that marigolds give off a substance called limonene which aphids are repelled by. No aphids; no ants as ants farm aphids for their sweet secretion called honeydew. Whatever the reason, it seems to work for you and many others so keep it up!
@@retockirtap Yes, I get no ants either now. No idea which is being repelled (perhaps the ants were the problem all along), but it certainly seems as if the pests decrease because of the marigolds. Maybe one year I'll leave them out to see if I see more compelling evidence from a swing the other way, to help confirm my assumption. For now, it appears to be effective and the only conscious change I made, so I have to work under the assumption that it is effective.
I'm all about the scientific method, and research. However I also strongly acknowledge the presence of scientific data or research, is not what makes something true. Truth is truth even if it has not been "researched" (or properly researched). Gravity existed long before Mr Newton and the mythical apple falling. Science is incredible at, and is one of our best tools for attempting to answer questions. however, sometimes the best questions don't get asked. And all research doesn't have to be done by people with particular letters behind their names, or published in peer-reviewed journals. Now obviously some "truths" can be quickly and easily disproven with basic, reproducible "research". Sometimes, all that takes is a personal trial in the back yard. No grants or publication necessary.
I don't think anyone believes truth doesn't exist before scientific consensus is made. No not every question gets asked, but the thing people seem to overlook is the wealth of agricultural research that has occurred. A person doesn't have to have a degree to do research anymore than a person needs a degree to perform surgery. Granted that's hyperbole but the idea is the same. You don't want someone performing your medical procedure that doesn't have training and experience for all the obvious reasons. Anymore than you should trust the "research" of someone in their backyard who doesn't understand the principles and the potential pitfalls in scientific experimentation. Put an egg under your tomato and subjectively decide your plants look the best ever and the harvest is greater this year which must mean an egg under tomato improves yields. Backyard research.
Scientific data can’t ever tell us for sure what’s true about reality. It’s the old problem of induction. You can do something 1,000 times and get the same result, but you still can’t say with complete confidence that you will get the same result on the 1,001st time. However, we don’t need full confidence in our predictions of future events to do useful things with science. It’s enough for us to determine what is *probably* true. And to do that, we use the scientific method. Whether the person using that method is a PhD botanists or a backyard gardener with a sixth-grade education is irrelevant as long as they are properly following the scientific method. I suspect that most casual gardeners are in fact not using controls or taking other methodological steps to ensure the validity and usefulness of their results.
I just love marigolds so I am rolling with the willing suspension of disbelief on its effectiveness. Also, "I recommend beetle traps to my neighbors..." Hahah😂
Just. Found your channel and enjoying watching your videos . Your no nonsense fact based approach is great . The myths surrounding gardening are many . How much time and effort have we wasted employing them .
Due to lack of space I grow a mixture of stuff next to each other. More specifically I do have some basil next to tomato’s in spots. I have never noticed a different or better flavor. My friend swears dill will keep squash beetles away. I don’t grow squash so I will never test that one. I also haven’t noticed any negative effects from the interplanting that I do. A few areas are monocropped like my potatoes, and blueberries.
Robert we are growing Melons on a trellis system , in 10 Gallon grow bags with drip irrigation on a huge Black tarp. My thinking is i can control the watering and feeding and by keeping the melons off the ground improve airflow and avoid ground based pests better. We will limit the number of melons per plant ( 3 ) to increase each individual melon yield ( potential ). Soil is is 50% aged manure compost, 30% clay sand, 10% peat moss and 10% leaf mold. Our fertilizer is bone and blood meal. Mulching with hand crushed leaves ( it's what's available in the woods ). Mix of rainwater and well water ( If we run out of the rain barrels to the nearby well we go ) This year I will learn the melon plants root system in a 10 gallon grow pot as well as if adding the fertilizer every 3 to 4 weeks helps the vines out. We are lightly dosing the melon Plants with 1/2 teaspoon of blood and bone meal.
Try spaying leaves with milk and water spray. 40% milk to 60% water. It’s always worked for me. Also prune leaves below any flowers to improve airflow. Also tie them up off of the ground, stakes, trellis or even tomato cage if need be.
Gardening in Canada is a good gardening TH-cam channel, the content creator is a soil scientist and she seems to confirm your theories on adding microorganisms to soil( unnecessary and ineffective). She said there are over four hundred species of mycorrhizal fungi and different ones form mycorrhizal associations with different plants and that’s why proper crop rotation and proper companion planting is important, so you grow the plants that form mycorrhizal associations with the dominant fungi in that bed. It sounded logical to me. So I pay attention to info like, “grow with…”, “avoid growing with…”, “in rotation after…”, “follow with…”. As for herbs preventing pests, the claim is aroma of aromatic herbs either deter or confuse pests, but I have stink bugs on my basil.
I've noticed that Dill, seems to be an Aphid magnet and had a lot of Ladybugs taking advantage of it this year, didn't see the Aphids spread, also Sweet Potatoes seem to be a White fly magnet, trying to get rid of all volunteer plants this year, see how it works, thanks as always for the common sense explanations!
There are 2 companion planting methods that both work, and both involves tomatoes or nightshade plants. (If you want the source, find it yourself, I forgot the chemical names.): 1 Rosemary and tomatoes. (Rosemary contains multiple chemicals that repel leaf-footed bugs, and destroy they chitinous exo-skeleton.) 2 Sunflowers and tomatoes. (A specific sunflower type was used as a bait crop for leaf-footed bugs, however it should be noted that planting tomatoes next to sunflowers is a horrible idea because sunflowers are allelopathic.)
I love your content on gardening, I just watched the slug one. I was sent over here from another channel who linked you. I live in San Diego & I use Sluggo all of the time. I’ve tried everything and that’s the only thing that really works.
One year I tried various companion planting ideas and found them all to be nonsense, with the exception of peppers and basil. I got significantly more peppers, and the basil did not seem to have any bad effects. I thought it was maybe just a good year for peppers, which happens, but it seems to work every year now for me. I have not done any studies, I simply grow the plants and observe, so I may just have a good imagination. The plants grow to a similar size and do not show any adverse effects, so I continue to grow them together, and I suggest to others that they should try it. Better yet, they should do a study about it.
I think it is good if you give each plant room to grow separately. I plant chives with strawberries. The chives keep away a lot of the pests that like to nibble on strawberries.
I have tried different types of companion planting and so far only nasturtiums have been useful for getting most of the cabbage white caterpillars to feast on them rather than my brassicas. But I still have to cover the cabbages. This year I am trying to grow pyrethrum daisies next to the brassicas as a caterpillar deterrent since pyrethrum is used as an insecticide.
I started a tray of onion seeds. When they out grew the tray, I transplanted most of them in my garden, but I transplanted a few in my strawberry bed. What a hugh difference. The onions in my strawberry bed are hugh compered to my garden bed. Same seeds, same soil, same mulch, same environment. I am not a scientist, so I don't know why, but what about the results.
More sunlight? Different microclimate? Strawberrys are typically low and bushy, which gives more sunlight to the onions and the bushiness might have an isolating effect and even out things like humidity/draught, wind, etc. I'm only guessing, though.
Agreed my companion planting is largely intercroping container vegetables because I have the space in the container. Some bushy plants shade a few hostas in my flower garden. Compost does more than companion planting...The internet needs content more than truth...
I think the whole idea of plants "competing" for resources is a myth, that is why commercial growers have been changing to direct planting and using cover crops masively. Sure, more plants will extract more nutrients from the soil, but having the ground covered by plants will decompact the soil because of their root systems. Also you would have better fungus and bacteria present in the soil, preserve humidity, and avoid soil compactation and erosion. Here in Paraguay a big mayority of soy growers plant directly on the soil without tilling, and use cover cropping and green fertilizer crops, and their yields are higher this way. In brasil most fruit growers are planting pinto peanut between their fruit trees, because of their incredible properties. I think that idea of having the groun exposed to the elements is way outdated, some crops will continue needing tilling and weeding, but there is a lot of other crops that benefit inmensely by having the ground covered
It is absolutely not a myth. However, all plants do different things, sometimes they're complimentary, sometimes not. Companion planting and crop rotation have seen widespread use for thousands of years because they absolutely do work.
@@sanniepstein4835 Most no-till or low-till farms that I know of in NA are actually also 'organic' and have very limited application of basically anything outside of compost. This is of course anecdotal so maybe there are more that do, but at the same time it defiantly shows that they are not dependent on herbicides. If they are dependent on anything it seems to be compost, mulch, and cover crops.
It is definatly not a myth (look up self-thinning--there is a wealth of scientific research on it). That said many people still have the wrong idea about how it works. 1. While the resources available at any given time are limited (so if one plant uses them that means there is less for another), plants are very complex and fill different ecological niches and nutrients are not static (if they are not fixed many of them can be leached away). This means that while it is true that plants will compete for resources, this does not mean that poly-culture or higher planting densities are worse necessarily, it simply means there are trade-offs. The most general of which is that planting more densly than your resources support means something will have to give and at least some of the plants will do more poorly than if they were in the same environment without the plants. 2. Just because a plant does not do as well as it could if it were planted alone does not mean that you should necessarily plant it alone. E.g. with the tomato and lettuce example the benefit the lettuce receives from the tomato is the shade but some of the benefit will at some planting density be ameliorated by the increased competition with the tomato. As such the lettuce would perform better in the shade of something that it isn't competing with like a cloth. However just because the yield could be greater if it had its own special spot does not mean that growing it with the tomato is a waste. Space, maintenance, cost, and other factors may also be important to you. While the yield may not be optimal, the benefits of saving space and time/work/money setting up a artificial shade may for many outweigh the bit of extra yield that may be available if you do everything optimally/individually for each plant. tl;dr you need to know what you want (which isn't just yield at all costs probably) and strategically plant in a way that helps you achieve that (based on research and testing). What works for one person (if it even actually works) may not be optimizing for the same thing that you want. You need to research, think, test, and plan for your own goals in those things.
5:59 One of my gardens (in-ground garden) is situated directly in front of a 50+ year old, 30-40ft. Eastern White Cedar (aka Green Giant Arborvitae) and I have not experienced any ill effects in the garden due to this. I don't fertilize much and I keep watering to a minimum as a general rule in all my garden plots and this one plot is no different - my plant health and yields are just as good as in the other gardens.
The fact that two different species could grow together sharing without competition the space that is supposed to be used by only one of them should also be considered a successful companion plantig. I wonder how mixed the roots could be at the end of the stage in one of those cases, like corn and beans.
In my experience companion planting and "trap" crops don't really offer much benefit aside from calendula. Calendula is the only trap crop I've found to work against aphids, oh and Marshmallows helped with Japanese beetles but they didn't keep them completely free from those pests. Gardening is always an expirement for me even 10 seasons deep.
The same applies to vitamin groups. I can think of a mineral group that asks you to believe that an enzymatic action happens but can't prove it with blood tests etc.
When I first came across your channel, the first thoughts that crossed my mind were, here we go again, just another gardening "expert" site. Having watched this and another, I am happy to subscribe. Cannot stand the channels with quick fixes, that really aren't to the average Joe. I look forward to watching previous episodes as well as any new material you bring out. And yes. referring to trap ideas to neighbors is always a good thing in my book. I wonder if it will work with rats.
According to whom... What is an "incredible nutrient profile?" Plants get nutrients from the soil to grow. If you remove the plant once it's grown, you've effectively removed the nutrients. Taproots are storage devices not vacuum pumps. The plant is getting nutrients and water from all the surface roots.
Mckenzie seeds on the website mention a negative with all tomato seeds. "Keep tomatoes away from all members of brassica...", with no reasoning behind it. Always thought that was weird. Anyone know a reason for this?
Thank you for the excellent information. I have always been confused by the many contradictions surrounding companion planting. Do you happen to have any non-pesticide advice on keeping lily beetles away in zone 7-8? Preferably not the “pick and squash them” kind :)
for years i have been told tomato's and pepper plants can be grown together and has no effect on the other but when i plant them together my peppers grow like crap so i plant them in different gardens
I grew them together last year and my tomatoes next to the peppers totally failed. I’m planting them separate this year. I don’t plan on growing them together ever again. They seem to compete too much.
It all makes sense. But it sounds like you’re deterring intercropping. Maybe each of the plants don’t produce as much as they would planted separately but getting more food from a plot overall makes it worth planting some plants together.
That's interesting... Lots of anecdotes out there. Adversely, brings to mind what may be called, "multi planting" : planting many different kinds in a relatively small area. Unlike companion planting, multi planting may be beneficial or a bunch of b.s.. Anyway, good video, Robert
Multi planting is not B S. I threw a handful of wild flower seeds onto a part of my garden and fully expect a riotous profusion of same. What grows grows. what doesn't doesn't. multi-companions
I like to let the weeds grow and plant veggies inamongst them. If i grow in bare dirt, rabbits dig them up. The weeds protect the veggies, the weeds dont get pulled up as a result. Providing benefit to each other. Bit of a waste of time and space having a herb garden. If you are going to grow them, chuck them around your veggies, maybe they help, maybe they dont, but you make more effective use of space and most importantly you can kerp a living ground cover
I once planted lettuce next to celery. It was bad. The celery took the lettuce seedlings' lunch money and pushed them around, because they were shorter.....
You touched on bad companions, but said very little about it. There was a recent post about a tomato that popped up in the same (looked like) 12” pot. Naturally everyone jumped on the claim that tomatoes and cabbages are bad companions, but I only saw one that actually indicated it was a case of both consuming a lot of nutrients, which makes sense to me. That’s why we remove the second plant from a small growing cell when starting seeds.🤷♂️ However, thinking about, say, growing cabbages (or other Brassicas) beside bush beans, if the distance between the row in a “traditional” garden setting is 36 inches, how much fighting is going on for the same nutrients? It makes perfect sense that the closer we plant things together, the more they will fight with each other for nutrients. That’s why the often self-proclaimed gardening experts have their “special blends” to work in around plants as they grow & produce their fruit or vegetables, particularly in raised beds & containers. Sure, even growing a traditional garden, the overall nutritional health of it is depleted by the veggies &/or fruits we grow. That is why we add compost and/or fertilizers to replenish the nutrients removed from it by our plants, and give it that annual boost of nutrients for the next growing season. I would certainly also appreciate your thoughts on all the things people suggest we should not grow together.
Companion planting and organic gardening ARE connected because without chemical pesticides and fertilizers it’s beneficial to use alternative methods to repel pests, attract pollinators and amend soil.
This summer, one man is on a crusade aganst 'mother earth news' propoganda. Making hippies and gossips cry with one fact after another. Keep up the good work man.
Green manure is green leaves. You use the green leaves of things you're removing from the garden in the same way you would use mulch. The leaves shade the soil and put nutrients back into the soil as they decompose. It's a way to mulch that also keeps the fertility of removed material in your garden. Many people plant herbaceous crops, comfrey seems to be the most popular, just for this. I've used volunteer weed plants like Plantain, Dandelion, Burdock and other broadleaf lawn invaders for my tiny garden.
Something grown specifically to be incorporated into the soil like you would animal manure but it's a plant hence the "green." It serves several purposes.
The herb doesn't know what insect to repel. But human-edible herbs all have the commonality of being intensely aromatic and having non-poisonous (to us) chemistry. Those aromatics may compensate for the lack of in-leaf compounds - a general species-independent ecological 'syndrome' across the kinds of plants we are most likely to categorize as 'herbs'. It also seems pretty obvious to me as a grower that my 'herbs' of any species always grow fantastically healthy and never have infestations of any kind, but my 'non' 'herbs' succumb to *every* pest conceivable. Their obvious robustness would get them recognized by observant gardeners everywhere as "super plants" that "repel pests" and "attract pollinators", and they'd mostly be right about it, no whitepaper needed.
Also, pests and pollinators can be considered largely exclusive. Pests are parasitic, pollinators symbiotic. Plants would compete to be maximally repulsive to the worst potential pests and maximally attractive to the best potential pollinators. Both of these are 'halo' effects, and could have good or bad effects on neighboring plants of any species.
Also, most things we call 'herbs' are generally not making large sugary fruit. They do not have big juicy live-fast-die-young salad leaves. The resources saved by growing slow and fruitless (many or most 'herbs' are perennial) can be spent on a top-notch chemical seduction and warfare suite. The tomato needs to make a huge vine in two months and cover it in huge fruit; it does it fast and dirty and skimps on self-preservation. The tomato readily succumbs to all the pests and blights because death was always its plan. Squash are even worse - pure ragequit-and-retry gameplay from these r-typed tropical competitors. But you can perhaps outsmart the reckless fruiting annuals, by buttressing their positions with slow-life-strategy aromatic perennials.
What I find really strange is that my peppermint and spearmint, which are supposed to be great at repelling pests, get eaten up every year by pests. The leaves are full of holes halfway through the season.
@@shawnsg Herbs have pests, but not to the degree tomato, squash, etc do. The principles of "fixed budgets" and "compromises" cannot be escaped. Tomatoes spend their fixed budget maximally on fruiting, minimally on defense, which we've bred them to do versus wild progenitors. Herbs are the reverse: bred to enhance their flavor and aroma, which happens to be their chemical warfare capability. Probability-of-pestilence diverges accordingly. This does not imply it is 0.0 for herbs and 1.0 for tomatoes.
I've experienced the exact opposite effect. Anything next to the Black Walnut tree starts out gangbusters, and then without warning in 2 ~ 3 days time all leaves start to curl, and the plants die back. The Walnut routinely kills back my tomatoes, Honeysuckle, Clematis, potatoes, grapes. This repeatable behavior has happened for five years before I gave up planting in the ground near the tree. I can grow anything elsewhere on my property and not have a problem.
@@GasOperatedDad we only have black walnut and all variety mostly heirloom like brandy wine ,amish past , and beaf steak . this year we planted 100 red delicious plants below it the old tree provides nice shade for the summer hot sun
My spider plants do not do well if I water them with green tea, UNLESS they're growing in the same pot as a Norfolk island pine. Both do great with nothing more than leftover green tea for water and no other fertilizer.
Some of this reminds me about the books of alchemy.. But about plants that triggers the aphids example, can trigger also nice good bugs more to eat the aphids. Ladybugs can smell the aphids quite far and could be seen also in weather forecast radar if the situation is super bad. Better to sacrifice something useless to save something what you want. Onions family attracts a lot of good bugs and also repels bad bugs. And as an rubbish plant anyway, who cares what happens to it?
Its well established that plums and cherries may thrive by walnuts but apples and pears will not fruit and may be killed. This is RHS botany level stuff. My walnut sapling hasn't even come into leaf yet and it's messed with my planting plans like nothing else (moan, groan). Flowering vines through (not fruit) trees are brilliant, whatever the science.
I have a question. Today big farmers (corn, soy bean) complain that without herbicides it would be imposible to grow crops, because millions of weeds would outcompete them. How were farmers able to produce corn and soy beans before the invention of the herbicides?. This is not a critic to the big farmers, I have seen the weeds they are talking about, they would for sure cover and outcompete the crops without herbicides, but how ppl avoided famine in the past? I mean, herbicides are truly a very recent development (during the 40s?)
The problem, many times, is not making the soy beans (or whatever) grow, having weeds around it. Althou they compete with each other. Prodution (by same size land) is much higher nowdays. The major problems are in the other moves that farmming includes. Namely harvesting. If you harvest the soy beans all mixed up with other weeds (and theirs seeds) then you have to go trough a costly process of cleanning/separation of what was harvested. The herbicides are very much about efficience in several times of prodution. And dont forget that in the olds ays many people worked in agriculture, many times as servents, semi slaves. Its about mecanization, efficience, etc.
Read the previous comment. Just to add to it, go look-up the yields per acre of those crops by country. Impossible doesn't necessarily mean impossible. I need to go to the store but my car is broken so it's impossible for me to get there. Well not really. I could walk but that's not realistic given the distance.
@@shawnsg realistic,yes...in the real world farmers grow crops they (hope) they can sell with a profit. If they cant, its "impossible". In a competetive world, if in a country you cant use a prodution advantage (like herbicides, or ...whatever) and you have to compete with producers in another part of the world that can use them you become "comercially inviable". "Impossible". So, if in EU or US you cant use a tractor but you import from argentina , brazil or ukrain where they can use it, you will be out of the business, because you main advantage was tech that you cant use now. And consumers still get the same product...just more expensive and from another country. Farmming for comerce, comercial farmming, comodity farmming, its all about efficience, sometimes with tiny margins. And what happens in the fields is just part of it...
There is this new lie being spread (or at least new to me) that epsom salts kills slugs on contact. I watched all your slug videos I could find and you have not addressed this. I'd like to see you do a video to debunk this particular claim.
@@joshuameschnark5156 Table salt is Sodium Chloride (NaCl) and does indeed kill slugs but is not advisable for use in a garden unless you don't care about your soil's health. Epsom salts is not table salt. Epsom "salts" is not damaging to soil but is also not effective at killing slugs. Any claims that it does kill slugs are always from hocus pocus gardeners with low IQs. I have literally poured Epsom salt on a few different types of slugs and none of them died.
Thank you for reminding me that we have millennia of accumulated nonsense about agriculture, and only a couple of centuries of scientific method to counter it.
I can say that mint deterring bugs is 100 false. Ants move up and down my mint patches , ants actually move bug larvae around to get the sap they take out of plants
Honestly ain't it all about your climate, soil health, type for earth and what you are growing there. All plants can be impacted by what you grow beside them based on how the soil behaves and contains.
I've been experimenting with companion gardening over the past 50 years. It's nothing more than a lot of nonsense. I haven't yet found an ounce of truth in it. There's always at least one downside that more that offsets any perceived advantage.
My car and I have a companion relationship, I work on the car and maintain it; the car runs well and takes me where I want to go. Therefore, we look after one another. When I plant tomatoes in full sun I get a better crop then when I pant tomatoes in the shade; therefore, the tomato plant and sun have a companion relationship, right? The fallacy of this companion relationship nonsense is it implies that two or things have a knowing and willful relationship with one another. The corn does not grow tall so it can provide a stalk for the beans to climb and the squash does not grow large leaves on purpose to provide shade. This three sisters nonsense is a perfect example where we attribute human behavior to plants.
Your comment is literally the first instance I've ever seen of anyone thinking that companion planting implies the actual plants help each other through their own intentional teamwork, or working together. That's pure nonsense, lmao. It simply means that the person planting them together did so because of those same perceived mutual benefits.
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Lol move on from this one. Guy is just against companion planting for some reason. I watched this video, he basically just keeps saying “i dont think it’s real” while talking a lot. I’m out in the garden every day and see certain plants consistently work better planted together. so it annoys me when someone wastes my time just to say theyve been THINKING a lot ab sh*t lately
Im glad for the info, but you're destroying my soul 😂 So basically, compost, water that's it. Damn thats my hobby out the window. Might get into crime now, Im bored.
My father gardened using nothing but composted sheep manure we shoveled out of our barn and some straw. No tricks, no fads, no studies. We never went hungry.
Thank you very much. Im getting sick of all the overthinking I have been doing about gardening in general. My grandfather stuck crap in the good earth and we ate.
No chemicals, no fertilizer no weed killers. Just dirt and mulch and water.
I'm done reading and watching the latest fad.
I'm on my third season in my backyard. Every season I have half a dozen new friends try and tell me that I need to provide electricity to my garden. It's a new secret to boost growth 🙄🙄🙄
I read about gardening mostly for entertainment, and distraction from politics. The photos are often quite lovely as well.
@@sanniepstein4835 Amen to that. if it aint broke, don't fix it. Good, home made compost and the knowledge required to make it is all any gardener needs really. With black gold it all falls into place.
My best companion plant is a thick layer of mulch
I plant dwarf marigolds with tomatoes, but NOT for nematodes, simply because I seem to have fewer aphids when I do. The marigolds and toms are in the polytunnel. As soon as I started planting marigolds near the entrance my aphid issues stopped. Not very scientific, but that my N=1 experience. My tunnel is 12 years old. For 9 years I suffered bad aphid attacks. For the last three I've planted marigolds and have had little to no aphid damage /shrug
I'd say, if it works for you, scientific methods used or not, continue doing it.
Good Luck in your Garden this year!
Exactly!
If a method/companion plant doesn't sounds like it will completely "nuke" the garden...then why not try it...especially if you have a pest problem?!
This thing about not existing studies to support "X" claim makes me cringe so hard.
You don't need a study for absolutely everything. (And some studies are not reported and some are if they found in the study what they were looking for)
Just try planting something near other thing if that other thing looks like doesn't grow too well (but mostly for a pest infestation) and not wait for the study that says that """drinking 2.2Liters of water/day makes you live 20 more years compared with the ones that drink 2.1Liters/day"""!!!
So three times, you have had the same outcome... That sounds like a method that works.
The current thought on this is that marigolds give off a substance called limonene which aphids are repelled by. No aphids; no ants as ants farm aphids for their sweet secretion called honeydew. Whatever the reason, it seems to work for you and many others so keep it up!
@@retockirtap Yes, I get no ants either now. No idea which is being repelled (perhaps the ants were the problem all along), but it certainly seems as if the pests decrease because of the marigolds. Maybe one year I'll leave them out to see if I see more compelling evidence from a swing the other way, to help confirm my assumption. For now, it appears to be effective and the only conscious change I made, so I have to work under the assumption that it is effective.
I'm all about the scientific method, and research. However I also strongly acknowledge the presence of scientific data or research, is not what makes something true. Truth is truth even if it has not been "researched" (or properly researched). Gravity existed long before Mr Newton and the mythical apple falling. Science is incredible at, and is one of our best tools for attempting to answer questions. however, sometimes the best questions don't get asked. And all research doesn't have to be done by people with particular letters behind their names, or published in peer-reviewed journals. Now obviously some "truths" can be quickly and easily disproven with basic, reproducible "research". Sometimes, all that takes is a personal trial in the back yard. No grants or publication necessary.
I don't think anyone believes truth doesn't exist before scientific consensus is made.
No not every question gets asked, but the thing people seem to overlook is the wealth of agricultural research that has occurred.
A person doesn't have to have a degree to do research anymore than a person needs a degree to perform surgery. Granted that's hyperbole but the idea is the same. You don't want someone performing your medical procedure that doesn't have training and experience for all the obvious reasons. Anymore than you should trust the "research" of someone in their backyard who doesn't understand the principles and the potential pitfalls in scientific experimentation.
Put an egg under your tomato and subjectively decide your plants look the best ever and the harvest is greater this year which must mean an egg under tomato improves yields. Backyard research.
Scientific data can’t ever tell us for sure what’s true about reality. It’s the old problem of induction. You can do something 1,000 times and get the same result, but you still can’t say with complete confidence that you will get the same result on the 1,001st time.
However, we don’t need full confidence in our predictions of future events to do useful things with science. It’s enough for us to determine what is *probably* true. And to do that, we use the scientific method.
Whether the person using that method is a PhD botanists or a backyard gardener with a sixth-grade education is irrelevant as long as they are properly following the scientific method.
I suspect that most casual gardeners are in fact not using controls or taking other methodological steps to ensure the validity and usefulness of their results.
@@shawnsgunfortunately the "wealth of agricultural research" that has been done has almost exclusively been conducted on monoculture systems
Well said.
But the data you get doing that isn’t reliable. You can’t prove cause and effect.
The voice of logic. I appreciate the knowledge you share.
"I do recommend them to my neighbours" tickled me.
me too
I used to fling all the snails I found over the fence to the yard of the grumpy neighbor who didn't like my garden. he he he
Haven't seen a horn worm in near my tomatoes since I've been planting basil along side of them. Not sure if it's just luck or it just works
I'll try this.
Funny, I just added basil as well in hopes it deters bugs. Guess we will see
I just love marigolds so I am rolling with the willing suspension of disbelief on its effectiveness. Also, "I recommend beetle traps to my neighbors..." Hahah😂
Just. Found your channel and enjoying watching your videos . Your no nonsense fact based approach is great . The myths surrounding gardening are many . How much time and effort have we wasted employing them .
So true, like buying beer for slugs. Luckily I watched this channel before I ran out to go buy beer for my slugs. lol
Right? All those cash grabbing content creators will have you crushing up eggshells and pissing on them when the sun goes behind the clouds
I'm growing strawberries, Kale, Green onion and Garlic all together just great.
Due to lack of space I grow a mixture of stuff next to each other. More specifically I do have some basil next to tomato’s in spots. I have never noticed a different or better flavor.
My friend swears dill will keep squash beetles away. I don’t grow squash so I will never test that one.
I also haven’t noticed any negative effects from the interplanting that I do. A few areas are monocropped like my potatoes, and blueberries.
Why do we just flush common sense down the toilet.there is no scientific method for common sense.
Great video - I don’t know if any of this works -I never thought of this - thanks for this video … it all makes sense.. your right ..
Robert we are growing Melons on a trellis system , in 10 Gallon grow bags with drip irrigation on a huge Black tarp.
My thinking is i can control the watering and feeding and by keeping the melons off the ground improve airflow and avoid ground based pests better.
We will limit the number of melons per plant ( 3 ) to increase each individual melon yield ( potential ).
Soil is is 50% aged manure compost, 30% clay sand, 10% peat moss and 10% leaf mold.
Our fertilizer is bone and blood meal. Mulching with hand crushed leaves ( it's what's available in the woods ).
Mix of rainwater and well water ( If we run out of the rain barrels to the nearby well we go )
This year I will learn the melon plants root system in a 10 gallon grow pot as well as if adding the fertilizer every 3 to 4 weeks
helps the vines out. We are lightly dosing the melon Plants with 1/2 teaspoon of blood and bone meal.
Try spaying leaves with milk and water spray. 40% milk to 60% water. It’s always worked for me. Also prune leaves below any flowers to improve airflow. Also tie them up off of the ground, stakes, trellis or even tomato cage if need be.
Gardening in Canada is a good gardening TH-cam channel, the content creator is a soil scientist and she seems to confirm your theories on adding microorganisms to soil( unnecessary and ineffective). She said there are over four hundred species of mycorrhizal fungi and different ones form mycorrhizal associations with different plants and that’s why proper crop rotation and proper companion planting is important, so you grow the plants that form mycorrhizal associations with the dominant fungi in that bed. It sounded logical to me. So I pay attention to info like, “grow with…”, “avoid growing with…”, “in rotation after…”, “follow with…”.
As for herbs preventing pests, the claim is aroma of aromatic herbs either deter or confuse pests, but I have stink bugs on my basil.
I've noticed that Dill, seems to be an Aphid magnet and had a lot of Ladybugs taking advantage of it this year, didn't see the Aphids spread, also Sweet Potatoes seem to be a White fly magnet, trying to get rid of all volunteer plants this year, see how it works, thanks as always for the common sense explanations!
Let's face it, we are all just looking for an excuse to plant more plants because we love them so much.
There are 2 companion planting methods that both work, and both involves tomatoes or nightshade plants. (If you want the source, find it yourself, I forgot the chemical names.):
1 Rosemary and tomatoes. (Rosemary contains multiple chemicals that repel leaf-footed bugs, and destroy they chitinous exo-skeleton.)
2 Sunflowers and tomatoes. (A specific sunflower type was used as a bait crop for leaf-footed bugs, however it should be noted that planting tomatoes next to sunflowers is a horrible idea because sunflowers are allelopathic.)
I love your content on gardening, I just watched the slug one. I was sent over here from another channel who linked you. I live in San Diego & I use Sluggo all of the time. I’ve tried everything and that’s the only thing that really works.
One year I tried various companion planting ideas and found them all to be nonsense, with the exception of peppers and basil. I got significantly more peppers, and the basil did not seem to have any bad effects. I thought it was maybe just a good year for peppers, which happens, but it seems to work every year now for me. I have not done any studies, I simply grow the plants and observe, so I may just have a good imagination. The plants grow to a similar size and do not show any adverse effects, so I continue to grow them together, and I suggest to others that they should try it. Better yet, they should do a study about it.
I think it is good if you give each plant room to grow separately. I plant chives with strawberries. The chives keep away a lot of the pests that like to nibble on strawberries.
You just c contradicted yourself
I have tried different types of companion planting and so far only nasturtiums have been useful for getting most of the cabbage white caterpillars to feast on them rather than my brassicas. But I still have to cover the cabbages. This year I am trying to grow pyrethrum daisies next to the brassicas as a caterpillar deterrent since pyrethrum is used as an insecticide.
I started a tray of onion seeds. When they out grew the tray, I transplanted most of them in my garden, but I transplanted a few in my strawberry bed. What a hugh difference. The onions in my strawberry bed are hugh compered to my garden bed. Same seeds, same soil, same mulch, same environment. I am not a scientist, so I don't know why, but what about the results.
More sunlight? Different microclimate? Strawberrys are typically low and bushy, which gives more sunlight to the onions and the bushiness might have an isolating effect and even out things like humidity/draught, wind, etc. I'm only guessing, though.
@huldaliljeblad3611 No, the beds sit next to each other.
Agreed my companion planting is largely intercroping container vegetables because I have the space in the container. Some bushy plants shade a few hostas in my flower garden. Compost does more than companion planting...The internet needs content more than truth...
I think the whole idea of plants "competing" for resources is a myth, that is why commercial growers have been changing to direct planting and using cover crops masively. Sure, more plants will extract more nutrients from the soil, but having the ground covered by plants will decompact the soil because of their root systems. Also you would have better fungus and bacteria present in the soil, preserve humidity, and avoid soil compactation and erosion. Here in Paraguay a big mayority of soy growers plant directly on the soil without tilling, and use cover cropping and green fertilizer crops, and their yields are higher this way. In brasil most fruit growers are planting pinto peanut between their fruit trees, because of their incredible properties. I think that idea of having the groun exposed to the elements is way outdated, some crops will continue needing tilling and weeding, but there is a lot of other crops that benefit inmensely by having the ground covered
I had a sunflower growing next to a Brussel sprout and the Brussel sprout died, it could have been a coincidence though.
It is absolutely not a myth. However, all plants do different things, sometimes they're complimentary, sometimes not.
Companion planting and crop rotation have seen widespread use for thousands of years because they absolutely do work.
No-till farming in N.A. depends upon the regular use of herbicides. Is that also true in Paraguay?
@@sanniepstein4835 Most no-till or low-till farms that I know of in NA are actually also 'organic' and have very limited application of basically anything outside of compost. This is of course anecdotal so maybe there are more that do, but at the same time it defiantly shows that they are not dependent on herbicides.
If they are dependent on anything it seems to be compost, mulch, and cover crops.
It is definatly not a myth (look up self-thinning--there is a wealth of scientific research on it). That said many people still have the wrong idea about how it works.
1. While the resources available at any given time are limited (so if one plant uses them that means there is less for another), plants are very complex and fill different ecological niches and nutrients are not static (if they are not fixed many of them can be leached away). This means that while it is true that plants will compete for resources, this does not mean that poly-culture or higher planting densities are worse necessarily, it simply means there are trade-offs. The most general of which is that planting more densly than your resources support means something will have to give and at least some of the plants will do more poorly than if they were in the same environment without the plants.
2. Just because a plant does not do as well as it could if it were planted alone does not mean that you should necessarily plant it alone. E.g. with the tomato and lettuce example the benefit the lettuce receives from the tomato is the shade but some of the benefit will at some planting density be ameliorated by the increased competition with the tomato. As such the lettuce would perform better in the shade of something that it isn't competing with like a cloth. However just because the yield could be greater if it had its own special spot does not mean that growing it with the tomato is a waste. Space, maintenance, cost, and other factors may also be important to you. While the yield may not be optimal, the benefits of saving space and time/work/money setting up a artificial shade may for many outweigh the bit of extra yield that may be available if you do everything optimally/individually for each plant.
tl;dr you need to know what you want (which isn't just yield at all costs probably) and strategically plant in a way that helps you achieve that (based on research and testing). What works for one person (if it even actually works) may not be optimizing for the same thing that you want. You need to research, think, test, and plan for your own goals in those things.
5:59 One of my gardens (in-ground garden) is situated directly in front of a 50+ year old, 30-40ft. Eastern White Cedar (aka Green Giant Arborvitae) and I have not experienced any ill effects in the garden due to this. I don't fertilize much and I keep watering to a minimum as a general rule in all my garden plots and this one plot is no different - my plant health and yields are just as good as in the other gardens.
The fact that two different species could grow together sharing without competition the space that is supposed to be used by only one of them should also be considered a successful companion plantig. I wonder how mixed the roots could be at the end of the stage in one of those cases, like corn and beans.
In my experience companion planting and "trap" crops don't really offer much benefit aside from calendula. Calendula is the only trap crop I've found to work against aphids, oh and Marshmallows helped with Japanese beetles but they didn't keep them completely free from those pests. Gardening is always an expirement for me even 10 seasons deep.
Thanks for the tip regarding marshmallow for Japanese beetles. I’ll try anything.
The same applies to vitamin groups. I can think of a mineral group that asks you to believe that an enzymatic action happens but can't prove it with blood tests etc.
When I first came across your channel, the first thoughts that crossed my mind were, here we go again, just another gardening "expert" site. Having watched this and another, I am happy to subscribe. Cannot stand the channels with quick fixes, that really aren't to the average Joe. I look forward to watching previous episodes as well as any new material you bring out. And yes. referring to trap ideas to neighbors is always a good thing in my book. I wonder if it will work with rats.
Comfrey does indeed do as claimed. You turn the leaves into tea or mulch and the nutrient profile is incredible.
According to whom...
What is an "incredible nutrient profile?"
Plants get nutrients from the soil to grow. If you remove the plant once it's grown, you've effectively removed the nutrients. Taproots are storage devices not vacuum pumps. The plant is getting nutrients and water from all the surface roots.
thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for another great vid.
Lol @ recommending traps to your neighbours. Genius move.
😂😂😂 Japanese beetle traps, I wouldn't use them myself, but I would recommend them to my neighbors 😂😂😂
Mckenzie seeds on the website mention a negative with all tomato seeds. "Keep tomatoes away from all members of brassica...", with no reasoning behind it. Always thought that was weird. Anyone know a reason for this?
Thank you for the excellent information. I have always been confused by the many contradictions surrounding companion planting. Do you happen to have any non-pesticide advice on keeping lily beetles away in zone 7-8? Preferably not the “pick and squash them” kind :)
for years i have been told tomato's and pepper plants can be grown together and has no effect on the other but when i plant them together my peppers grow like crap so i plant them in different gardens
I grew them together last year and my tomatoes next to the peppers totally failed. I’m planting them separate this year. I don’t plan on growing them together ever again. They seem to compete too much.
I had thrips on my roses bad last year, so I've planted onions and chives around them. I'm not sure if it helped, but I have no thrips.
It all makes sense. But it sounds like you’re deterring intercropping. Maybe each of the plants don’t produce as much as they would planted separately but getting more food from a plot overall makes it worth planting some plants together.
That's interesting... Lots of anecdotes out there. Adversely, brings to mind what may be called, "multi planting" : planting many different kinds in a relatively small area. Unlike companion planting, multi planting may be beneficial or a bunch of b.s.. Anyway, good video, Robert
Multi planting is not B S. I threw a handful of wild flower seeds onto a part of my garden and fully expect a riotous profusion of same. What grows grows. what doesn't doesn't. multi-companions
I like to let the weeds grow and plant veggies inamongst them. If i grow in bare dirt, rabbits dig them up. The weeds protect the veggies, the weeds dont get pulled up as a result. Providing benefit to each other. Bit of a waste of time and space having a herb garden. If you are going to grow them, chuck them around your veggies, maybe they help, maybe they dont, but you make more effective use of space and most importantly you can kerp a living ground cover
How about plants that DON't go together (supposedly) for example garlic, onion and chives are forbidden to be close to beans and peas?
I once planted lettuce next to celery. It was bad. The celery took the lettuce seedlings' lunch money and pushed them around, because they were shorter.....
You touched on bad companions, but said very little about it. There was a recent post about a tomato that popped up in the same (looked like) 12” pot. Naturally everyone jumped on the claim that tomatoes and cabbages are bad companions, but I only saw one that actually indicated it was a case of both consuming a lot of nutrients, which makes sense to me. That’s why we remove the second plant from a small growing cell when starting seeds.🤷♂️
However, thinking about, say, growing cabbages (or other Brassicas) beside bush beans, if the distance between the row in a “traditional” garden setting is 36 inches, how much fighting is going on for the same nutrients?
It makes perfect sense that the closer we plant things together, the more they will fight with each other for nutrients. That’s why the often self-proclaimed gardening experts have their “special blends” to work in around plants as they grow & produce their fruit or vegetables, particularly in raised beds & containers.
Sure, even growing a traditional garden, the overall nutritional health of it is depleted by the veggies &/or fruits we grow. That is why we add compost and/or fertilizers to replenish the nutrients removed from it by our plants, and give it that annual boost of nutrients for the next growing season.
I would certainly also appreciate your thoughts on all the things people suggest we should not grow together.
Companion planting and organic gardening ARE connected because without chemical pesticides and fertilizers it’s beneficial to use alternative methods to repel pests, attract pollinators and amend soil.
Great info.❤❤❤
This guy talks on all of it and the answer is it depends. As in all application within every system. Gooood info though on specifics.
A little off topic from plants, do you think grounding sheets work?
This summer, one man is on a crusade aganst 'mother earth news' propoganda.
Making hippies and gossips cry with one fact after another.
Keep up the good work man.
Forgive my dumb question, but what is green manures and what does it do for the garden?
Chop and drop
Green manure is green leaves. You use the green leaves of things you're removing from the garden in the same way you would use mulch. The leaves shade the soil and put nutrients back into the soil as they decompose. It's a way to mulch that also keeps the fertility of removed material in your garden. Many people plant herbaceous crops, comfrey seems to be the most popular, just for this. I've used volunteer weed plants like Plantain, Dandelion, Burdock and other broadleaf lawn invaders for my tiny garden.
Something grown specifically to be incorporated into the soil like you would animal manure but it's a plant hence the "green." It serves several purposes.
Did you mention "attracts pollinators?"
I found that using flowers as companion plants just drew unwanted pests. I like just planting like plants together in neat order.
The herb doesn't know what insect to repel. But human-edible herbs all have the commonality of being intensely aromatic and having non-poisonous (to us) chemistry. Those aromatics may compensate for the lack of in-leaf compounds - a general species-independent ecological 'syndrome' across the kinds of plants we are most likely to categorize as 'herbs'. It also seems pretty obvious to me as a grower that my 'herbs' of any species always grow fantastically healthy and never have infestations of any kind, but my 'non' 'herbs' succumb to *every* pest conceivable. Their obvious robustness would get them recognized by observant gardeners everywhere as "super plants" that "repel pests" and "attract pollinators", and they'd mostly be right about it, no whitepaper needed.
Also, pests and pollinators can be considered largely exclusive. Pests are parasitic, pollinators symbiotic. Plants would compete to be maximally repulsive to the worst potential pests and maximally attractive to the best potential pollinators. Both of these are 'halo' effects, and could have good or bad effects on neighboring plants of any species.
Also, most things we call 'herbs' are generally not making large sugary fruit. They do not have big juicy live-fast-die-young salad leaves. The resources saved by growing slow and fruitless (many or most 'herbs' are perennial) can be spent on a top-notch chemical seduction and warfare suite. The tomato needs to make a huge vine in two months and cover it in huge fruit; it does it fast and dirty and skimps on self-preservation. The tomato readily succumbs to all the pests and blights because death was always its plan. Squash are even worse - pure ragequit-and-retry gameplay from these r-typed tropical competitors. But you can perhaps outsmart the reckless fruiting annuals, by buttressing their positions with slow-life-strategy aromatic perennials.
What I find really strange is that my peppermint and spearmint, which are supposed to be great at repelling pests, get eaten up every year by pests. The leaves are full of holes halfway through the season.
@@jeanpauldupuis mint is affected by many pests including spider mites and occasionally fourlined plant bug among others. Herbs have pests.
@@shawnsg Herbs have pests, but not to the degree tomato, squash, etc do. The principles of "fixed budgets" and "compromises" cannot be escaped. Tomatoes spend their fixed budget maximally on fruiting, minimally on defense, which we've bred them to do versus wild progenitors. Herbs are the reverse: bred to enhance their flavor and aroma, which happens to be their chemical warfare capability. Probability-of-pestilence diverges accordingly. This does not imply it is 0.0 for herbs and 1.0 for tomatoes.
I gave a like for providing interesting information, but please put some more image/videos in the blank space 😅
Cheers from Poland
"Yyrbs" 😂😂😂
we plant our tomatoes under a walnut tree for years and that is the best place in the garding
I've experienced the exact opposite effect. Anything next to the Black Walnut tree starts out gangbusters, and then without warning in 2 ~ 3 days time all leaves start to curl, and the plants die back. The Walnut routinely kills back my tomatoes, Honeysuckle, Clematis, potatoes, grapes. This repeatable behavior has happened for five years before I gave up planting in the ground near the tree. I can grow anything elsewhere on my property and not have a problem.
@@GasOperatedDad i even rototill in the leaves and the nuts
@@sallymay4178 That's bizarre! What variety of tomatoes are you growing? Also, is it a Black Walnut, or English Walnut tree?
@@sallymay4178 The video specified "black" walnut trees because black walnut trees secrete a substance that is poisonous to other types of plants.
@@GasOperatedDad we only have black walnut and all variety mostly heirloom like brandy wine ,amish past , and beaf steak . this year we planted 100 red delicious plants below it the old tree provides nice shade for the summer hot sun
My spider plants do not do well if I water them with green tea, UNLESS they're growing in the same pot as a Norfolk island pine. Both do great with nothing more than leftover green tea for water and no other fertilizer.
Some of this reminds me about the books of alchemy.. But about plants that triggers the aphids example, can trigger also nice good bugs more to eat the aphids. Ladybugs can smell the aphids quite far and could be seen also in weather forecast radar if the situation is super bad. Better to sacrifice something useless to save something what you want. Onions family attracts a lot of good bugs and also repels bad bugs. And as an rubbish plant anyway, who cares what happens to it?
How are potatoes affected by the nightshade family when they are in the same family??
Its well established that plums and cherries may thrive by walnuts but apples and pears will not fruit and may be killed. This is RHS botany level stuff. My walnut sapling hasn't even come into leaf yet and it's messed with my planting plans like nothing else (moan, groan). Flowering vines through (not fruit) trees are brilliant, whatever the science.
'Recommend to your neighbours'... 👍
I have a question. Today big farmers (corn, soy bean) complain that without herbicides it would be imposible to grow crops, because millions of weeds would outcompete them. How were farmers able to produce corn and soy beans before the invention of the herbicides?. This is not a critic to the big farmers, I have seen the weeds they are talking about, they would for sure cover and outcompete the crops without herbicides, but how ppl avoided famine in the past? I mean, herbicides are truly a very recent development (during the 40s?)
The problem, many times, is not making the soy beans (or whatever) grow, having weeds around it. Althou they compete with each other. Prodution (by same size land) is much higher nowdays. The major problems are in the other moves that farmming includes. Namely harvesting. If you harvest the soy beans all mixed up with other weeds (and theirs seeds) then you have to go trough a costly process of cleanning/separation of what was harvested. The herbicides are very much about efficience in several times of prodution. And dont forget that in the olds ays many people worked in agriculture, many times as servents, semi slaves. Its about mecanization, efficience, etc.
Read the previous comment. Just to add to it, go look-up the yields per acre of those crops by country.
Impossible doesn't necessarily mean impossible. I need to go to the store but my car is broken so it's impossible for me to get there. Well not really. I could walk but that's not realistic given the distance.
@@shawnsg realistic,yes...in the real world farmers grow crops they (hope) they can sell with a profit. If they cant, its "impossible". In a competetive world, if in a country you cant use a prodution advantage (like herbicides, or ...whatever) and you have to compete with producers in another part of the world that can use them you become "comercially inviable". "Impossible". So, if in EU or US you cant use a tractor but you import from argentina , brazil or ukrain where they can use it, you will be out of the business, because you main advantage was tech that you cant use now. And consumers still get the same product...just more expensive and from another country.
Farmming for comerce, comercial farmming, comodity farmming, its all about efficience, sometimes with tiny margins. And what happens in the fields is just part of it...
@@srantoniomatos I agree with you. My comment was aimed at the first person.
@@shawnsgyes i got it. Was just expanding...
There is this new lie being spread (or at least new to me) that epsom salts kills slugs on contact. I watched all your slug videos I could find and you have not addressed this. I'd like to see you do a video to debunk this particular claim.
It does kill slugs. Do you really think salt wouldn't kill a slug?
@@joshuameschnark5156 Table salt is Sodium Chloride (NaCl) and does indeed kill slugs but is not advisable for use in a garden unless you don't care about your soil's health. Epsom salts is not table salt. Epsom "salts" is not damaging to soil but is also not effective at killing slugs. Any claims that it does kill slugs are always from hocus pocus gardeners with low IQs. I have literally poured Epsom salt on a few different types of slugs and none of them died.
Thank you for reminding me that we have millennia of accumulated nonsense about agriculture, and only a couple of centuries of scientific method to counter it.
I can say that mint deterring bugs is 100 false. Ants move up and down my mint patches , ants actually move bug larvae around to get the sap they take out of plants
Honestly ain't it all about your climate, soil health, type for earth and what you are growing there. All plants can be impacted by what you grow beside them based on how the soil behaves and contains.
I've been experimenting with companion gardening over the past 50 years. It's nothing more than a lot of nonsense. I haven't yet found an ounce of truth in it. There's always at least one downside that more that offsets any perceived advantage.
It’s never worked for me perhaps I’m using the wrong plants
My favorite garden ingredient: concrete🤣
Bro, you say you want research... but discredit research done in a lab... you see how those two statements contradict eachother?
My car and I have a companion relationship, I work on the car and maintain it; the car runs well and takes me where I want to go. Therefore, we look after one another.
When I plant tomatoes in full sun I get a better crop then when I pant tomatoes in the shade; therefore, the tomato plant and sun have a companion relationship, right?
The fallacy of this companion relationship nonsense is it implies that two or things have a knowing and willful relationship with one another. The corn does not grow tall so it can provide a stalk for the beans to climb and the squash does not grow large leaves on purpose to provide shade. This three sisters nonsense is a perfect example where we attribute human behavior to plants.
Your comment is literally the first instance I've ever seen of anyone thinking that companion planting implies the actual plants help each other through their own intentional teamwork, or working together.
That's pure nonsense, lmao.
It simply means that the person planting them together did so because of those same perceived mutual benefits.
We are the new seller of Amazon. Your video is so interesting and creative. I want to cooperate with you to create the video about gloves,If I can get your permission, you will get a set of gloves, and you can also make any of your demands to me.
good old fashion basic thinking.
sir all the hippy/new age/permaculture cults are becoming mad at you.
Not all. Im a permaculturist and tank a lot this man for his education efforts, saving me a lot of bs work.
@@srantoniomatos good to know!
😂
Lol move on from this one. Guy is just against companion planting for some reason. I watched this video, he basically just keeps saying “i dont think it’s real” while talking a lot.
I’m out in the garden every day and see certain plants consistently work better planted together. so it annoys me when someone wastes my time just to say theyve been THINKING a lot ab sh*t lately
1st
This guy thinks if he does not understand something then it is not true. Unsubscribed.
Im glad for the info, but you're destroying my soul 😂
So basically, compost, water that's it. Damn thats my hobby out the window. Might get into crime now, Im bored.
My father gardened using nothing but composted sheep manure we shoveled out of our barn and some straw. No tricks, no fads, no studies. We never went hungry.