Motor is Ananda M80. You can see Ananda logo on the controller 3:40, next to burned components. Problem is, it is not possible to buy any part for this motor, as manufacturer do not sell spare parts. This is interesting tip, use generic controller instead of factory one. But for mechanical part, I am unable to find any spare part - for example reduction gear visible 12:15, that big cog wheel on the other part of engine shell.
Ok, good to know. About the mechanical parts maybe you can find some shop that manufactures small parts. I know that small plastic gears are sold for hub motors so maybe with alot more searching on the internet you can find them for this one. Good luck.
@@theelectronage It look like parts of the internal bearing what i found inside one of my engines, all bearings should be standard. I only need to find way to take out that big cog wheel. I recommend to get some sort of chain guard or anything that block tiny gap between motor and front cog wheel. If your chain fall out of front cog wheel, it is immediately stuck in that gap, scratching aluminum engine cover (yes, chain fit inside this gap) and it is very difficult to get it out on the road - whole bike propelling system is seized. If that happen and you are able to fix the bike, do not shift to 3-4 largest gears on the derailleur, chain will fall out again. Pedal home and fix derailleur, there is something wrong with it if chain keep falling out of front cog wheel.
Hi, When i opened the motor i had to slightly separate the plate covering the motor by pulling it up, when i put it back in place i didn't place it fully into place so there was lots of friction between the green gear and the plate under it. Have a good one.
Hey, thank you for the video, very usefull. i have the same motor that doesn't work and i'm considering to do the same job. i'm trying to figure out what is the issue first, i have done some tests but nothing wrong so far, do you think you can help me with the troubleshooting?
@@theelectronage Great thanks i'll try to be succinct: The assist on pedaling doesn't work The walk mode doesn't work too > might not be the torque sensor as suspected? Battery provides 36V > ok Display > ok light turn on and off, walk mode displayed when activated... Speed sensor > ok speed is displayed. No sensors on the brakes that can prevent the assist Inside no visible damage on the cables or components (capacitors not expanded) Tested conductivity between 3 phases > ok i'm a bit out of idea of what test to do next. Thanks again !
@@mrkioui3004 Hi, So there's not much to go on. The only thing out of place that I can think of is the walkassist logo that shows up, normally you need to hold the button. So it could be a bad display(or just button) but these displays are "unopenable" in an attempt to make them water proof. But i doubt that you'll find a display but you can try with the manufacturer, but again this is to find or eliminate the problem so.. It's also weird that it doesn't show an error code which favors the display walk assist button problem . If you can't find a display, i encourage you to buy a VESC, which is way better than your average Chinese ESC. My last video shows how I implemented it with my bosch ebike. The advantage you have I think is that you can keep the bike as is so that you'll have a speedometer and light control, but again you need to try to see if it'll work normally after disconnecting the phases and hall wire. Contact me if you get somewhere( without the vesc). Good luck.
@@theelectronage Thank for the answer! the walkassist only show when i push the button. but the display has some scratch on it so it might be a good idea to test another one. I'll check your video about the vesc. Thanks again !
Hi, how's it going. This particular controller doesn't have a temperature sensor. I don't think you really need one as long as you test your bike in different temperature conditions and see how's it doing just by touch. If it's too hot to touch you probably shouldn't continue.
Hi, thanks for your reply, so my problem is, the motor gear isn't turning, and I tried everything, I separated it from the motor, and put it back in place but it's like the magnetic motor is holding it from turning.!
Just so you know, it's very hard to destroy a bldc motor, (except with too many Amps for long time)so when you find a cheap ebike that's supposedly out of service, you can in 95% of cases put in a new controller, and with a good battery of course and it'll run.
Motor is Ananda M80. You can see Ananda logo on the controller 3:40, next to burned components. Problem is, it is not possible to buy any part for this motor, as manufacturer do not sell spare parts. This is interesting tip, use generic controller instead of factory one. But for mechanical part, I am unable to find any spare part - for example reduction gear visible 12:15, that big cog wheel on the other part of engine shell.
Ok, good to know.
About the mechanical parts maybe you can find some shop that manufactures small parts.
I know that small plastic gears are sold for hub motors so maybe with alot more searching on the internet you can find them for this one.
Good luck.
@@theelectronage It look like parts of the internal bearing what i found inside one of my engines, all bearings should be standard. I only need to find way to take out that big cog wheel. I recommend to get some sort of chain guard or anything that block tiny gap between motor and front cog wheel. If your chain fall out of front cog wheel, it is immediately stuck in that gap, scratching aluminum engine cover (yes, chain fit inside this gap) and it is very difficult to get it out on the road - whole bike propelling system is seized. If that happen and you are able to fix the bike, do not shift to 3-4 largest gears on the derailleur, chain will fall out again. Pedal home and fix derailleur, there is something wrong with it if chain keep falling out of front cog wheel.
@petrberanek4230 thanks for the tip, i see what you mean. It didn't happen to me yet.
Hi. Very good and instructive video. There are a few small questions.Is there a controller with a display and support worked?
Hi,
Yes there are controllers with display options. Or you can use a vesc with a display or even cycle analyst.
Have a good one.
How did you fix the green gear when it wasn't running good
Hi,
When i opened the motor i had to slightly separate the plate covering the motor by pulling it up, when i put it back in place i didn't place it fully into place so there was lots of friction between the green gear and the plate under it.
Have a good one.
Hey, thank you for the video, very usefull. i have the same motor that doesn't work and i'm considering to do the same job. i'm trying to figure out what is the issue first, i have done some tests but nothing wrong so far, do you think you can help me with the troubleshooting?
For sure.
I'll take some time to respond though, but I will. Good luck.
@@theelectronage Great thanks i'll try to be succinct:
The assist on pedaling doesn't work
The walk mode doesn't work too > might not be the torque sensor as suspected?
Battery provides 36V > ok
Display > ok light turn on and off, walk mode displayed when activated...
Speed sensor > ok speed is displayed.
No sensors on the brakes that can prevent the assist
Inside no visible damage on the cables or components (capacitors not expanded)
Tested conductivity between 3 phases > ok
i'm a bit out of idea of what test to do next.
Thanks again !
@@mrkioui3004 Hi,
So there's not much to go on. The only thing out of place that I can think of is the walkassist logo that shows up, normally you need to hold the button. So it could be a bad display(or just button) but these displays are "unopenable" in an attempt to make them water proof.
But i doubt that you'll find a display but you can try with the manufacturer, but again this is to find or eliminate the problem so..
It's also weird that it doesn't show an error code which favors the display walk assist button problem .
If you can't find a display, i encourage you to buy a VESC, which is way better than your average Chinese ESC. My last video shows how I implemented it with my bosch ebike. The advantage you have I think is that you can keep the bike as is so that you'll have a speedometer and light control, but again you need to try to see if it'll work normally after disconnecting the phases and hall wire.
Contact me if you get somewhere( without the vesc).
Good luck.
@@theelectronage Thank for the answer! the walkassist only show when i push the button. but the display has some scratch on it so it might be a good idea to test another one. I'll check your video about the vesc. Thanks again !
Question 1: Is there a temperature sensor on the motor contoller, and do I need one?
Hi, how's it going.
This particular controller doesn't have a temperature sensor. I don't think you really need one as long as you test your bike in different temperature conditions and see how's it doing just by touch. If it's too hot to touch you probably shouldn't continue.
Question 2: Is the controller limiting the speed (In Norway this is mandatory)?
No, this controller goes as fast as the battery allows. You can limit the speed by using your gears.
Question 3: Can I do this on a Bosch engine, or is there any propiotary parts that can not be taken away?
I did the same to a bosch bike using a vesc, I'll upload the video soon.
Great video !!!
I have a bosch bike, it is not responding, I will for sure replace all the electronics on the bike, but I have a few questions
Depending on the error you have, you might be able to keep the bosch electronics for speed and milage monitoring, and run the motor with a VESC.
Hello I need help with this same model. Please someone one contact me .
Hi,
Sorry for the late reply.
How may I be of help?
Hi, thanks for your reply, so my problem is, the motor gear isn't turning, and I tried everything, I separated it from the motor, and put it back in place but it's like the magnetic motor is holding it from turning.!
And when I removed it from the motor, it turned normally, but when I put it back on it, it got stuck again
Why this video has 195 views I dont understand. Must be millons with this problem.
Yeah, but this is not for everyone.
Just so you know, it's very hard to destroy a bldc motor, (except with too many Amps for long time)so when you find a cheap ebike that's supposedly out of service, you can in 95% of cases put in a new controller, and with a good battery of course and it'll run.