Brand New 541 HEMI Build - Engine Assembly Secrets
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
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Nick loves Hemis, and he has rebuilt many of the legendary engines over the years. But today he's building a beast from all brand new parts.
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Class is in session gents. Get your note pad ready and pay attention. No talking during Professor Nick's lecture. Master Mechanic! Love it. Much respect always Nick!
Yea how not to build an engine lol...
@@olddirtybastardgarage The proof is in the pudding. We shall see on the dyno.
And class, turn off your damn phones!!!📵
Nick, it always impresses me how willing you are to unselfishly share your knowledge and years of experience with your viewers.
So nice of you.
That motor deserves a black 71 Cuda. The day I hit the lotto Nick will be my first call!
Here is to lucky numbers!
Jim's Automotive Machine Shop is rebuilding a 1956 Chevy 235 inline six. When he gets out the worn Chilton's book for information on this rebuild he has my respect. The 235 is very much the same motor as Georges and I think it is relevant to watch as they do the machine work to it. There were many changes between 1956 to 1964 and I found it interesting to see the differences.
Ive been watching that too
George's engine is the next generation after the 235 and actually has nothing in common with it except the make and number of cylinders.
Good afternoon Nick & George, What a great way to spend a Monday, watching Nick's Garage, the Daytona 500, and a a541 Hemi Build!! It doesn't get much better than that. Here We Go!
Gosh, we sure didn't mean to be competing with the race. But thanks for taking one eye off to join us this afternoon! Always great to have you here, Eugene.
#43 is a Hemi Guy! The King Richard.
Doing the same today Gene!
@@NicksGarage The Daytona 500 was postponed due to 2 days of heavy rain in Florida. The first parts of the race are usually not very interesting. I was more interested in watching Nick building the 541 Hemi. Nick is a perfectionist and I love watching him work his magic. I enjoyed watching this video very much, and can't wait to see this 541 on the Dyno. Excellent camera work George, it felt like I was right there in the engine room with you guys.
@@timbutler8316 The race is getting good now toward the end. Xfinity race is on right after the 500 is over.
I can’t believe how tight of tolerances that was, if it’s shaving the seal off as you install it…..it’s just too tight! I’m sure those new blocks are made to way more precise specs than anything from the 60s ever were. Great vid 👍
Back in the 60s no 2 blocks were the same , some were good others were dogs . machining was hot or miss back then
Use 2 .001 feeler gauges down the sides of the seal with a thin film of oil. That gives the added support and keeps the block from cutting them. When you get the seal block to the bottom you pull the feeler gauges out.
Sounds as good idea with the feelers! With the oil, I thought having dry contact is key... But having no cuts in the seal is even more important, so.. :)
Maybe having things cooled could be some way (more clearance + stiffened, less friction, rubber)?
Appreciate you allowing us to be involved in the process of building a new engine Nick! Right with us is George and his fantastic camera work too! 👍
Thank You Nick For Such A Master Class on Engine Building! You are very thorough but humble & never condescending!
This is insane. Pro. Nick you have provided knowledge and perspective that is absolutely priceless. From engine building to Dyno troubleshooting. Enjoy every second of your content. You take use all on this journey of automotive engine dynamics, through successes and trials, it's taken in. So greatful, thank you.
Nick keep it up .. Iam82 and live in USA state of Idaho . i love watching when i was young I had 2 33 fords and a 33 Roadster. and my favorite was a 61 Bubbie Top 409 4-speed
One of the all time great engine builders, and he never fails to please. Good enough is never good enough for Nick, it's got to be perfect.
HEY Nick @ Nicks' garage... I was born at St.Ritas hospital in Montreal circa 1963 and I wanna let you know I enjoy the show... PS: my brother had a 68 Charger with a 383 out of wrecked 68 dart... I love what you're doing, don't change a thing and keep trying to sound like a Frenchman, lol😅
It is fantastic that you get to share your knowledge with the next generation!
I know it would make for a very long video, but I could watch those pistons get installed one by one. It’s such a pleasure to watch Nicks clean shop and clear methods go to work, this will help me a lot in the very near future. Thanks again folks!
This is what I love about Nick’s Garage, he shows you everything! Even when things are going wrong! That’s why I prefer Nick’s Garage to other shows like PN! My God they must edit that to kingdom come! No frills, no editing and no robotic boring talking! This is the real deal! Nicks all the way!!!
It’s like an honour to watch nick work🇦🇺
Freeze that seal retainer and the seals to make it smaller and stiffen seals.
You are not lucky. It is the way you assemble engines you always take your time to make sure all the parts fit properly . great video ,always interesting to see you assemble an engine
2.19 minutes in I stopped ! For coffee. Thanks George ! Let's go ...
I'm glad to see that even the best, like Nick, use plastigage when checking clearances.
That cap pulling tool is awesome, you can get a nice straight pull to remove the main caps.
I have used a slide hammer with a threaded rod or bolt attached but you have to hold it steady to get a straight pull. Thanks Nick, it’s always fun to watch you and the A team with the master cameraman and Narrator George. 😊
I received my Vanishing Point Forever book about 3 days ago from Amazon. It's quite a book. Money well spent.
It is Money well spent. Thank you.
I really appreciate teaching us some the process of the engine assembly . Thank you, Nick and team
Watching your videos just makes my day. I watch old ones if you don't have something new up yet. I enjoy watching you work, and feel like I'm wrenching right there beside you.
I just wish that I wasn't so old now.
Well, you take care of yourself, Nick.
I'll see you in the next video. 😊
Glad you like them!
Nick, I always put silicone on those pesky side seals. In a way the silicone lubricates the rear main seal walls on the block 😊
Salut Nick je te remercie de nous montrer tes vidéos
Surtout les moteurs hemi et les 440
J’apprends beaucoup
La passion vient de mon père
Bonne journée
Wow, all I can say is wow what a great video Nick that you did here for years I wanted to see all that you do when you rebuild an engine. My grandfather used to do it and I have a few tools left and I never knew what they were for, but now I do watching you it’s a lot of work to rebuild an engine. I can’t tell you how happy I am to see this done I was too young for my grandpa to teach me he was a truck mechanic then head mechanic then manager, then district manager for the East Coast then for the East Coast and West Coast and specialist for the white motor trucking company years ago and he only went through the fourth grade. And now I’m too old and too much arthritis to do it but thank you Nick for amazing video !!
I do believe that ARP requires moly on the washers also, that's what I do anyways. I guess that reason is because that most of the friction is actually on the washer more than the threads during the torque sequence.
Like listening to Stephen Hawkings. Nick you are a true Mopar Guru. Thanks for all the great videos.
Glad you like them!
Yasou nicko !! Greetings from Greece!! Excellent work! Congratulations!!!!!!
Nick thank you for being so patient with your expertise in explaining this build for us who never knew how it is done. You work quickly but with no shortcuts! Your a prince. God bless you and keep you.
40:00 Try storing the end block in the freezer to cool it off and shrink it before you install it.
NICK'S GARAGE NUMBER ONE ALWAYS
19.30 Germany time Nicks Garage caught me again 😉
Thanks for the visit.
The tool to remove the main caps is a slide hammer, and I think you forgot to add lub between the bolt head and washer on the arp main cap bolts
Love Cold War motor that Plymouth caught my eye 👁️ when they dragged it out of a paddock . Been watching Scott and his team ever since . My Dad had Plymouths and me and my brothers have had plenty of Mopars . Thanks Scott and you Nick for your shows on all things automotive . 👍🏻🇦🇺.
It has been my pleasure to get to watch Nick showing the process of building this new HEMI block....Thanks...Nick & George the fine camera man 👍
Old F-4 2 Shoe🇺🇸
Thanks Nick!! Never have done a Chrysler but have Ford and Chevy, so it was great info!
5 4 1! YES, just hearing George say that at the beginning improved my day, Glorious! Smack Too Head! "I could'a Had a V8!"
You did good I am a old Hemi builder myself that is y I watch your show thank you for sharing 😀.
Good evening, guys!!!!! You know, I have several engine builds under my belt but I ALWAYS learn something when I watch the professor building an engine. Nick, I think you would make a FANTASTIC auto shop teacher, with your thorough and meticulous ways: anybody that couldn’t learn from you JUST DON’T WANNA!!!! Can’t wait to see this monster on the dyno, and George, the onscreen pics were perfect for illustration: btw, I think your mailtime sound effects are a hoot!!! 😂😂😂😂 Great week, guys!!!!!
I have never seen someone lube the cap with oil when using plasti-gauge!
You want the crank to stay in a solid position for an accurate measurement.
Me either, I remember instructions saying the journal and bearings should be dry
For the tight rear main…. Would have it been a good idea to put the cap in the freezer to shrink enough to facilitate the installation? Great video as usual
Discontinued parts is so right Nick, Mopar no longer supports parts after 7 years. Some dealers keep a warehouse but corporate, no so much. Sad, but you find ways of keeping them alive ensuring every part. You are the new old school MOPAR. Thanks😊
What can I say nick....thanks for the video.
Very much enjoying watching Nick assemble the Hemi . An ol Master Mechanic named Stanley taught me how to use the plastic gage many moons ago . It is very accurate. Still have an ol pack in the toolbox still today ..Happy Monday and Great Week to everyone.
Very cool! Here is to Stanley!
@@NicksGarageThank-you for saying that .Me and Stanley were good friends and he took me under his wing when I got out of the Army ... I appreciate that George, Stanley past away about a year and half ago ...he was a good friend and a great mechanic...
Je suis tellement content que tu es fait cette restoration finalement. J'ai 2x 354 hemi que je vais remonter dans le futur et c'est plaisant à regarder une vidéo sur les vieux hemis. Surtout provenant de Nick! Comme on dirait, Tu sais ouce tu vas!😊
Real Nice Nicholas, Quality workmanship.Again, I am glad that you are running the wrenches on my engine. Whoo Hoo, Thunder Road !!
Great show, Nick. I really enjoyed seeing you assemble that Hemi. So kind of Scott to send you a copy of his wonderful calendar. Kurt and Debbie's 442 looks fantastic.
Hey Nick, Did you do a dyno video on the New 541 Hemi build?? All new parts! I really wanted to see that on the dyno... 😊
I just watched this for the 3rd time and loved it. 😊
Nice.
The side seals on the rear main seal can be flattened a bit (maybe) by putting them in a freezer under a pair of flat surface weights.
Im not going to argue with your success but thats very tight main clearance, .0025 rods and mains is what i shoot for on my performance builds, .0015-.002” would be a stock engine clearance only in my world, but i also use Outside Mics and dial bore gages to measure for an actual measurement to blueprint, it costs about 200$ for the tools and it does take a little bit more time but well worth it imho, very neat Hemi, should do pretty good!
Nick I would never use plastiguadge I measure everything with micrometers and bore gauges and have found not all bearings are std sometimes they can be mixed up in the box so everything is done individually before I assemble my engines but still love watching how others build them cheers from downunder
nice shop shirt you should be able to sell a bunch of em melling is really part of the unsung heros of hi performance
34:19 if you put a little radius on the block where the seal retainer slides it won't cut the side seals.
Good point.
Nick is awesome he does his Mopar 😊
oh boy, that engine is going to be a monster, what a quality piece, can't wait until it shakes the dyno room.
That is a beautiful engine. A mechanical work of art.
Back in the late 70''s and early 80's, we were taught to use STP oil treatment for lube and just pour it right out of can when assembling motors.
I put the rear seal block in as best you can. Then i pack the outside/inner edge very well with good flexible silicone. Make sure(zero!) Oil film when applying. Ive never had leaks. Ken Lazzarri has good video he demonstrates a new style seal assembly made for big Mopars.
Nick,
I find these types of videos (build) much more interesting than the dyno runs.
Thanks
Paul (in MA USA)
Can't wait to start watching. Here we go. Thanks.
Hope you enjoy!
I like that idea of the puller for the main caps.
Slide hammer works to pull caps with the threaded hole
That's another way.
Everyone has an opinion on assembling an engine ,Nick has many, and Dyno has proven his work.
Thank you! I can’t wait to see George’s engine!
I like this type of Nicks video, like being back in shop class.
Professor Nick!
@@NicksGarage Dr. Nick.
Ian, thanks for the tips and tricks. Jamie thanks for the video.
Good times🎉 we have a local engine builder who says to put rings in dry. No oil what so ever in the bore. They will not seat properly. I have also seen guys dunk the whole piston in a pail of oil.
I very much enjoyed the engine building room
I personally enjoy watching your videos they're very inter signing.
The cap puller is pure genius, Patent it Nick, How about Nicks Custom tools ..By the way use aviation gasket sealer..
thanks Nick i now know why i couldn't get that small rear main oil leak on my first 4 cyl. ford rebuild years ago
I saw a bunch of vintage rust buckets on the tow. I asked the driver where they were going. He said Sweden. They love the old American cars, and can apparently rebuild anything.
A true master at work!
On my B block 451 I glued the side seals in the day before. Then I used a small amount of silicon to install the retainer and no problem.
Thanks Nick! No matter what it seems all good work is through the details and you showed us all the little details that made a great engine rebuild versus a mediocre
I like to put a drop of oil in each of the ring grooves and spin the rings around provide some lubrication during start up.
Loved watching it Nick , it's been many years since I built an engine this video brought back so many good memories. Thank you so much Nick and George.
I worked for a pilot , he was a big fan of NEW engines .
Bearing tangs face out on the Chrysler V-8's, so if you install the piston so the exhaust valve relief is on the bearing tang side of the connecting rod, you're correct. (in terms of Hemis, the wedge engines would have the valve reliefs on the opposite side of the bearing tang)
Try putting the seal retainer and strips in the freezer to shrink them down before installing, just a suggestion not telling you what to do.
Nick, Thank you for sharing your experience with us. I look forward to watching your videos!!! - John
Good video, although I’m surprised you don’t use any RTV between the rear main seal and block before you drop the crank in
and
That you use oil/assembly lube on the bearings when you check the main bearing clearances with the plastiguage.
Anyway, it must work for you Nick.
Mannnnn Really great Nicks Garage on Monday !!!! It was great watching Nick build the Hemi and sharing his knowledge and Mail Call !!! Have a Great Nick,George, and Everyone on the channel .
Thanks Sarge.
Nice build Nick...and George's sound effects are great....good content and thanks
That Lucas oil additive is one of the best all around assembly lubes for bearings. It sticks and will not run out over time
I bet the original crank wasn'tmade in China! It's really a shame that all these jobs that existed in the United States and Canada are now gone! I don't mean to be this way I love watching your show!
Love that tool you made for the caps. Cheers from Calgary.
Wow Nick what an informative video on putting the 541 Hemi together can't wait for the dyno testing in the future will be as interesting. Mail time at the end that calendar was a beaut by the look of things. Great video George once again.
hello Mr George an Mr Nick!! Have a Great week! Warmin up here in Central Ohio!
A Joy to see your Craftsmanship/ Thanks Nick
Your a bad man Nick!
Another fun outing in this surgical episode.
🍉🥝🥥🍓
Hi Nick…. I use a very thin smear of JB weld on the inside of the grooves install the seal strips….. THEN put the seal retainer with the seals installed on a vice with wood or plastic to protect the rubber. Tighten in the vice well the 5 minute JB WELD dries. At the same time after it’s dried about 30 minutes. The rubber seal will be compressed, a little smear of light grease and slip it in before the rubber expands back into shape.
😊
Brilliant
That's the best recommendation I've seen this issue...I sure hope that Nick see this before putting the pan on.
Those videos are done almost a week before we see it.
Nick doesn't like leaks so this trick would definitely eliminate a leak on the engine rear other than the half "O" shape seal.
Maybe that was the issue with the leak on that 383 they had such a hard time with.
Wrong way to do it. Use feeler gauges on each side of the seal. These are seals like trannies that need to be sized. You can even put them in a vise with the feeler gauges which will help since it then quick size it and install quick after the vise remove. Use vise protectors when you do this. Most the time all it takes is .001 feeler gauges on each side. Use a little thin oil on the feeler gauges on the seal side of the feeler gauges. You can also use wood clamps with the hard rubber sides or plastic side and compressed the side of the of the feeler gauges then release the clamp and it will go down some when it gets hard to it over and over till you get it in. Lots of ways to skin a cat.
@@arthurrodesiler3109 hey Arthurrodesiler, I’ve done this procedure at least 20 times. To say it’s wrong is your opinion. Do it whatever way you see fit. I personally wouldn’t waste my time messing with feeler gauges when my way works every single time.
I like to use the Billet Mancini Racing Rear main cap as the outer seals use O-Ring seals.
Thank you Nick, this awesome I have asked for this in the comments.
it is a pleasure to watch experience at work sir.
Thats gonna be a monster of an engine!