I almost bought from JT’s last batch and kind of glad I didn’t. I’m not an OS guy but wanted this engine only because they r so hard to get. Thanks for the review
Great video and thanks for sharing feedback. I own a B2R myself but haven't had it apart. It runs very strong and I can go well over 10 minutes on a tank. My only complaint is sales availability and "Maxima" support here in the states. Like you said Tebo has limited batches occasionally but I bought mine from Mr Maxima Vasco Sousa himself. It's a excellent engine but the exclusivity comes with a price. Anyway great job on the video!👍
I like these full teardowns! One thing about the burr/scratch on the inner lining. I know you said that it's not a big deal, but given that the lining got scratched while inserting the sleeve, wouldn't there be concern that any material "scratched off" could potentially be floating around inside the crankcase? EDIT: Oh my - went to the Channel page, only to see the video and learn of Rex's passing. My deepest condolences, and for what it's worth, I really liked this and the other review/teardown videos he produced. 😥
Yeah there is a very good chance that there could be some debris left sitting on the intake port. Sometimes you can get lucky with a burr on a fang and there won’t be any loose material, but 9 times out of 10, that will create loose material that could possibly ruin the engine. This is why it’s always a good idea to take apart and look through the engine to make sure everything is good to go, even if it’s from the highest quality of engine brands. It is very sad that Rex has passed. RC community lost a very knowledgeable member and good engine builder.
I was watching one of your videos the other day and you mentioned an engine had a soft crank material too it. You mentioned it was just a little softer than the os non coated cranks I was trying to remember wich engine had the soft crank. Do you remember? Thanks
Knowing what you have told us I would just stick to the reds 721 sv alllllll day long. And I do own a spec 2,3 ad2 but I didn’t pay 700-900 dollars for them either. That’s flat out rediculous!! Pricing on anything in the rc hobby are already inflated as it is. This is price gouging in my opinion. I hope o.s. Pricing was a mistake for their sake. They’ll be losing a lot of business if that’s for real. Anyway good video and info as always bro. Love all ur vids!!
Yep I am. I have that and the 723 and I have no issues with the 723. Runs great. The 721sv ran great at first but quickly found a broken oring in the pinch bolt. But overall yea it’s deff not the easiest engine to get tuned. But when u do it rips pretty good.
Could someone please help explaining how to interpret the timming numbers that Rex always shows at the end of his reviews or pricide a link were I can find such info? How can one understand if an off road engine is good or powerfull enough for 8th scale nitro based in Rex's timming numbers?
The blowdown number is the amount of degrees the crankshaft turns between the opening of the exhaust port and the opening of the transfer ports (ports on the right and left side of the exhaust port). Ideally, you want the blowdown for and off-road engine to be between 40°-45°. There are some outliers that run very well with numbers outside that range. In General, the lower the blowdown, the higher the torque and the lower the max rpm and the opposite for the higher the blowdown. The induction open and close determine the overall power of the engine. You’ll find that less powerful, rtr engines have a total degrees of 170°-180°, the middle ground is 180°-200°, high end off-road engines are 200°-220°, and anything higher than that is probably and on-road engine. On-road goes maxed out on all the numbers because you need as much top end power and max speed as possible, but in off-road, you want more torque and a more linear power delivery. Hope this isn’t too hard to understand but there’s not really a way to make it sound super simple 😅
$550?.....best to have sponsors to pay for those toys.....that gets expensive....more than some brushless RTR buggies.....guess I'll stay a Novice Rc'er..lol....since the 80s tho
Good job. Always get happy when I see these reviews. Not that I could afford one of these. Best review and teardown on the TUBE.
Thanks
Nice job, people will have idea how this things being modified for better performance..keep up the good work mate..cheers
I almost bought from JT’s last batch and kind of glad I didn’t. I’m not an OS guy but wanted this engine only because they r so hard to get. Thanks for the review
There’s nothing wrong with them they got a lot of power and hold a tune
Great video and thanks for sharing feedback. I own a B2R myself but haven't had it apart. It runs very strong and I can go well over 10 minutes on a tank. My only complaint is sales availability and "Maxima" support here in the states. Like you said Tebo has limited batches occasionally but I bought mine from Mr Maxima Vasco Sousa himself. It's a excellent engine but the exclusivity comes with a price. Anyway great job on the video!👍
Great video rex thanks for using millimetres
Awesome bruha keep it up 💯💯💯💯💪💪🏁🏁🏁🏁
Nice looking engine
I like these full teardowns! One thing about the burr/scratch on the inner lining. I know you said that it's not a big deal, but given that the lining got scratched while inserting the sleeve, wouldn't there be concern that any material "scratched off" could potentially be floating around inside the crankcase?
EDIT: Oh my - went to the Channel page, only to see the video and learn of Rex's passing. My deepest condolences, and for what it's worth, I really liked this and the other review/teardown videos he produced. 😥
Yeah there is a very good chance that there could be some debris left sitting on the intake port. Sometimes you can get lucky with a burr on a fang and there won’t be any loose material, but 9 times out of 10, that will create loose material that could possibly ruin the engine. This is why it’s always a good idea to take apart and look through the engine to make sure everything is good to go, even if it’s from the highest quality of engine brands.
It is very sad that Rex has passed. RC community lost a very knowledgeable member and good engine builder.
Looking good
Great video
I was watching one of your videos the other day and you mentioned an engine had a soft crank material too it. You mentioned it was just a little softer than the os non coated cranks I was trying to remember wich engine had the soft crank. Do you remember? Thanks
Uncoated Os cranks are the softest. I have said engines like a Argus that are not coated are softer than an Italian engine but harder than Os.
Knowing what you have told us I would just stick to the reds 721 sv alllllll day long. And I do own a spec 2,3 ad2 but I didn’t pay 700-900 dollars for them either. That’s flat out rediculous!! Pricing on anything in the rc hobby are already inflated as it is. This is price gouging in my opinion. I hope o.s. Pricing was a mistake for their sake. They’ll be losing a lot of business if that’s for real. Anyway good video and info as always bro. Love all ur vids!!
Are you running the Sv? I heard some people complain about tuning them but not sure what problem they are having.
Yep I am. I have that and the 723 and I have no issues with the 723. Runs great. The 721sv ran great at first but quickly found a broken oring in the pinch bolt. But overall yea it’s deff not the easiest engine to get tuned. But when u do it rips pretty good.
Could someone please help explaining how to interpret the timming numbers that Rex always shows at the end of his reviews or pricide a link were I can find such info? How can one understand if an off road engine is good or powerfull enough for 8th scale nitro based in Rex's timming numbers?
The blowdown number is the amount of degrees the crankshaft turns between the opening of the exhaust port and the opening of the transfer ports (ports on the right and left side of the exhaust port). Ideally, you want the blowdown for and off-road engine to be between 40°-45°. There are some outliers that run very well with numbers outside that range. In General, the lower the blowdown, the higher the torque and the lower the max rpm and the opposite for the higher the blowdown. The induction open and close determine the overall power of the engine. You’ll find that less powerful, rtr engines have a total degrees of 170°-180°, the middle ground is 180°-200°, high end off-road engines are 200°-220°, and anything higher than that is probably and on-road engine. On-road goes maxed out on all the numbers because you need as much top end power and max speed as possible, but in off-road, you want more torque and a more linear power delivery. Hope this isn’t too hard to understand but there’s not really a way to make it sound super simple 😅
No biggie to justify $550
too expensive for nothing else
$550?.....best to have sponsors to pay for those toys.....that gets expensive....more than some brushless RTR buggies.....guess I'll stay a Novice Rc'er..lol....since the 80s tho
❤🎉😮😊ไฟไฟแอด์
Not the same company at all. Maxima usa moto oils has nothing to with rc cars.