OK James. Here is an old Model Airplane tip. From back in the day when people actually made their own models. Don't go to the expense of buying a lot of expensive cork go to the hobby shop and buy some 1 inch thick balsa (also works with 1/2 inch) Attach your sandpaper with a common office stapler. Wrap the paper around your block so the staples are only on one edge. I have some blocks that I have had for 40 years.
You can make your own custom profile blocks. Cover the molding with saran wrap, press in Bond to create a negative shape of the contour. If you want, you can attach the Bondo form to a wood block.
Always something new to learn no matter how much you think you know. I've watched these videos for some years...but damn, the thing I can't get over is the fantastic display of bench planes.
😄 I have a few planes collected over the years, most second-hand that I renovated. Some of the specialised planes don't get much use but I've found them invaluable occasionally, of course, the law of diminishing returns must kick in if you acquire too many. I would suggest you get a good jack plane though, they are very versatile, mine is my favourite tool.
You can make a custom sanding block with Epoxy Putty (get the cheap stuff in the plumbing section) by clamping the sandpaper (pressed into the curves of the molding) then a layer of the epoxy putty, then a piece of wood (molding, then sandpaper, the epoxy putty, then a backing block). I needed two sticks of epoxy putty to make a contoured block about the size of a sanding sponge. Those Play-Dough skills from childhood need a workout!
Started watching your videos about 6 months ago. Now you're my go to guy when it comes to shop ideas or any situation I cant figure out on my own. -- Thanks brother.
I always learn from your videos. Thank you so much. And, thank you for posting the sites you talk about during your show. PS. I hope the floods have receded and all is dried out by now.
As always, clear, tested, common sense insight that clarifies why/when/which/how. I wish I could explain my work as clearly and effectively as you explain yours.
Good summary. For flat smaller areas, say around 2 SF or less, my #80 scraper plane gives a great finish-ready surface without sanding in very short amount of time as well.
I love you, dude. I literally said out loud (to myself): "dammit, why didn't I think of that!" I've been trying to figure out how to sand to a perfect 90 for five years and for some reason it never dawned on me to *use* a 90 degree surface.
I once bought a bunch of Norton sanding belts of various grits that were defective or old and they all broke at the splice within seconds of use. I saved them and I cut them up and glue pieces onto homemade wooden sanding blocks of various shapes. They last a long time and are some of my favorite tools.
I bought 3 Duragrit blocks at your recommendation and they're brilliant for edges, ends etc. Not good for flat surfaces because the carbide edge can easily out grooves in your wood. Very happy with my purchase though. Also bought their flat file which has been indespensable.
I picked up some sanding blocks and a flat sanding stick from Duragrit last week. I'm very happy with them so far. Thanks for the great product recommendation and for the coupon code. :)
Rob Dye I was tempted too! was just destroying sandpaper last night 'cause I was too impatient to make a block, so clicked the link in this vid. glad you're happy with your purchase!
Hey stumps! I once saw a carpenter make their own molding sanding blocks. He put a big wad of Epoxy putty on a base block and then squished that onto a sample of molding covered in Pam (or your favorite flavor of release agent). The epoxy is soft enough you can touch it up a bit and you are left with darn good backing block, but it does have trouble rounding fine bead features.
Mark Shelton this just out-It doesn’t matter how you put your hand plane on the bench. There are highly respected and skilled woodworkers who place on the side and many who place on the blade because that’s the way they like it--not because either way is right or wrong.
Hello again Sir 👋 As I said few days ago in one of Your videos comments "Instant Subscription" & "Going through Yours vids One by One Now!" here I'm and Learning Again new stuff 🤩 but most importantly I'm on the hunt for "Duragrit" products in here in Europe thanks to Your ever Great and Excellent knowledge of the contents of Another Superior Contribution to Our Woodworking community here on TH-cam - On behalf of many Others here *Thank You Sir* Mike from Ireland 🇮🇪 💪
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Dura Grit Carbide Sanding Products: (Use Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS): duragrit.com/home.php Links to stuff in this video► Carbide sanding blocks (Use Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS)- duragrit.com/home.php Adhesive backed sandpaper- amzn.to/2CMQw8p Rubber profile sanders- amzn.to/2WBhEhx Cork blocks- amzn.to/3fPssAg Semi-rigid blocks for hook and loop sanding discs- amzn.to/2WEkh2t Custom moulding knives and sanding blocks- mywoodcutters.com Foam backer rod- amzn.to/3fMXyss Sanding sponges (medium)- amzn.to/2E3cJjf (We may recieve a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links) Video about sandpaper► th-cam.com/video/0srywz2SwQo/w-d-xo.html
I prefer using 3-1/4 in. x 8-3/4 in. Drywall Hand Sander sold at Home Depot. They have about 1/8” firm rubber or foam backing. Standard sheets can be cut to width and are the perfect length to attach to these.
Sir, Your show is a God Send. I have a huge project doing a 35 foot teak yacht. (35x2 port and starboard.) Learning alot from your show and it is saving me time. The owner is on my case.... I have Cleaned the bright work (teak) and ready to sand. I hate sanding. Going over my tools and looking at the sanding spung. My question is: Can I Wet Sand teak with the a sanding spung and garden hose, going across the grain and save time? The owner is a real bastard. Comes down and barks orders like He's a Captain of a ship. Keeps telling me stuff like "When I was your age I working longer hours. And we loved it." Thanks in advance for your advice.
Thanks Jim, that was a great video.. almost skipped it 'cause I thought I was pretty clued up, then discovered, after watching, I wasn't as clued up as I thought! Damn! Thanks for sharing with us.. Would love to get some of those carbide sanding products but after courier and duty charges, they become damn expensive here in South Africa, so will stick to traditional sanding paper..
Haaaaaa yes, swimming pool noodles of pipe insulation!! Thanks very much, I had NO idea how I was going to fill a concave profile on my car!! Body shop suppliers are so expensive too 👌
I appreciate that! Buy something from Duragrit. They are the video sponsor, and when you support them, you support me too :) (Use Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS): duragrit.com/home.php
I've made my own contoured profile blocks for complex moldings just using chunks of the think pink bldg foam I keep around for breaking down sheet goods. Not very hard
Thanks for the video! I have never tried, but was wondering if using a piece of custom trim to make a mold, along with some low expansion spray foam, if you could get a useable custom sanding block? Anyone ever tried this?
Garry not Linda. The spray foam doesn't have a lot of structural body, I probably wouldn't bother. Auto body filler, epoxy putty as suggested in some of the other comments would be better choices.
Very helpful! But I have a question: In the process of getting the wood ready for applying a finish what other methods are used and when? For example I have a scraper that some say is needed before final finish. Do I sand before or after using the scraper? Had great results with both but not sure if it was newbee luck. Please advise.
It depends on which process you like, and the result you want. In the old days they planed and scraped most everything. Modern woodworkers seem to prefer power tools that use sandpaper, so sandpaper is a familiar choice for hand work too. Scraping is less dusty, but you have to know what you're doing to use and sharpen a scraper. A scraper also creates a different surface. It will be smoother to the touch, but can appear a little scalloped under the right light. A scraped surface also won't take stain or dye as well because it's the fine scratches that hold the most color. Bottom line: You can just sand, you can just scrape, but few people do both.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks! Nice to know the difference! I guess I was lucky. I scrapped then did a lot of sanding. I put on five coats of polyurethane with sanding in between. No stain or dye so it looks great and is very smooth with no scallops. It did take a lot of time and lots of sandpaper! Not a fast worker like the pros.
In the video it looks like you glue a self adhesive piece of sandpaper to a cork yoga block. Can you remove it and put a new one on without destroying the surface of the block?
Excellent talk and explanations yet again. Now off to link and look at what I need to purchase and how to get it to NZ. Thanks James, am REALLY enjoying your vid-torials...and no plonkers thumbs down yet....why do they just have to do that?
@@doctorofart If you are trying to flatten rock you use a steel plate with SIC between the rock and plate. If you are carving a rock, use a cold chisel. If you are "sanding" a shape in a rock, use leather to move the SIC around.
When KFC was taking off, the colonel moved up to Canada to kick off KFC here. The US has bought him out by that time and messed with his recipe while Canada had his original. Americans were not happy and some actually drove up here to have the recipe they remembered. Due to odd licensing, I think they called it 'Scots Chicken Villa'. Now it's probably just the same as the US.
Try Permagrit. I have one of their small wedge sanding blocks. It was originally bought to sand carbon fibre and fibreglass, but it does equally well on wood. My daughter used it to shape some Purpleheart. She found it quicker than a rasp and left a smoother finish. Hope this helps. Cheers, Tim (from Australia 🇦🇺)
Please promise not to laugh. I do some very fine scroll-saw work which needs a slight amount of clean-up on the edges. I have diamond files that work great but take time. Lets say I just stack cut 3 items ... great now I have 3X to clean up. Well it's not as bad as it sounds because on the bottom will have the biggest clean-up and the other edges will be not as bad. Does anyone make a "sanding bead" ? Something I could put in my rock tumbler to clean-up ALL the three at once !! Of course they have to be small since some of the edges are very fine and fragile. One thing I'm concerned about is grit. I really don't want to put three scroll-saw projects in the tumbler and 15 min later find just saw dust left. My gut tells that's way I have not seen " sanding beads ".
Picked up a carbide sanding block a few months back and it puts gouges in the surface. At first, I thought it was catching the corners so I bent them up to get them out of the way. Still left gouges. Visually inspected for loose or uneven grit and found nothing. Put it away for a few months and tried it again with the same results. Dunno what the deal is. Chucked it into the garbage can. Great idea though.
Why didn't you contact them? You obviously got a bad one. It's likely rare, but that happens once in a while with any tool. By throwing it away you cost yourself money and denied them a chance to show you, and those who read your post, that they stand behind their products.
OK James. Here is an old Model Airplane tip. From back in the day when people actually made their own models.
Don't go to the expense of buying a lot of expensive cork go to the hobby shop and buy some 1 inch thick balsa (also works with 1/2 inch) Attach your sandpaper with a common office stapler. Wrap the paper around your block so the staples are only on one edge.
I have some blocks that I have had for 40 years.
You can make your own custom profile blocks. Cover the molding with saran wrap, press in Bond to create a negative shape of the contour. If you want, you can attach the Bondo form to a wood block.
Another excellent discussion on sanding methods. Sometimes the “why” is more relevant than the “how”. I learned a lot from this video..
Always something new to learn no matter how much you think you know. I've watched these videos for some years...but damn, the thing I can't get over is the fantastic display of bench planes.
Chris Jordan what about Jimmy's smooth baby face haha looks like he's been testing how sharp his tools are...
Bruce check out a video by Peter Millard's 10 Minute Workshop (a fellow Brit) where he does have a shave with a plane iron - it's painful to watch😀
You know what they say....You can never have too many clamps........I have One block plane...planes and I keep a respectful distance.
😄 I have a few planes collected over the years, most second-hand that I renovated. Some of the specialised planes don't get much use but I've found them invaluable occasionally, of course, the law of diminishing returns must kick in if you acquire too many.
I would suggest you get a good jack plane though, they are very versatile, mine is my favourite tool.
You can make a custom sanding block with Epoxy Putty (get the cheap stuff in the plumbing section) by clamping the sandpaper (pressed into the curves of the molding) then a layer of the epoxy putty, then a piece of wood (molding, then sandpaper, the epoxy putty, then a backing block). I needed two sticks of epoxy putty to make a contoured block about the size of a sanding sponge. Those Play-Dough skills from childhood need a workout!
Started watching your videos about 6 months ago. Now you're my go to guy when it comes to shop ideas or any situation I cant figure out on my own. -- Thanks brother.
good video! I also save wine corks to use in sanding by gluing a sandpaper circle on the end of the cork. Useful for sanding spoons.
I always learn from your videos. Thank you so much. And, thank you for posting the sites you talk about during your show. PS.
I hope the floods have receded and all is dried out by now.
I bought the duragrit sanding blocks about 9 months ago from previous Stumpy video. They work, very well. Glad I got them
As always, clear, tested, common sense insight that clarifies why/when/which/how. I wish I could explain my work as clearly and effectively as you explain yours.
Good summary. For flat smaller areas, say around 2 SF or less, my #80 scraper plane gives a great finish-ready surface without sanding in very short amount of time as well.
Thank you for such a clear and detailed video. I learnt a lot from this.
I love you, dude. I literally said out loud (to myself): "dammit, why didn't I think of that!" I've been trying to figure out how to sand to a perfect 90 for five years and for some reason it never dawned on me to *use* a 90 degree surface.
Thank you for all of these tips that someone like me may not think of right a-way or that loves an excuse to buy something new.
I didn’t know about the cork. Good man very informative as usual
I once bought a bunch of Norton sanding belts of various grits that were defective or old and they all broke at the splice within seconds of use. I saved them and I cut them up and glue pieces onto homemade wooden sanding blocks of various shapes. They last a long time and are some of my favorite tools.
Just in time for today's project! Thanks. Sanding a scrap wood table I need to follow the grain of each piece. Obvious now you tell me. Thanks again
I used to make custom sanding blocks by making a mold with fiberglass resin and spray adhesive. Works great and real easy to make.
I bought 3 Duragrit blocks at your recommendation and they're brilliant for edges, ends etc. Not good for flat surfaces because the carbide edge can easily out grooves in your wood. Very happy with my purchase though. Also bought their flat file which has been indespensable.
I picked up some sanding blocks and a flat sanding stick from Duragrit last week. I'm very happy with them so far. Thanks for the great product recommendation and for the coupon code. :)
Rob Dye I was tempted too! was just destroying sandpaper last night 'cause I was too impatient to make a block, so clicked the link in this vid. glad you're happy with your purchase!
Those are awesome tips... Thanks!
For inside tiny places, I use sand paper on duct tape. Just make the tape longer than the paper for handles.
Hey stumps! I once saw a carpenter make their own molding sanding blocks. He put a big wad of Epoxy putty on a base block and then squished that onto a sample of molding covered in Pam (or your favorite flavor of release agent). The epoxy is soft enough you can touch it up a bit and you are left with darn good backing block, but it does have trouble rounding fine bead features.
OMG< OMG, you put the plane down with the blade side on the bench!!!! We're all gonna die... seriously, thanks for another informative, great video!
Mark Shelton this just out-It doesn’t matter how you put your hand plane on the bench. There are highly respected and skilled woodworkers who place on the side and many who place on the blade because that’s the way they like it--not because either way is right or wrong.
@@eagleonone sorry, was the sarcasm in my answer not evident?
Mark Shelton Perhaps not to new (and possibly impressionable but well meaning) woodworkers who are looking to educate themselves.
@@eagleonone I'll try harder next time.
@@makermark67 Don't fret Mark it was obvious. I thought the same thing.
Never considered the blades from DuraGrit (or any other source). They are reasonably priced, too! Thanks for the link.
Awesome tips.... thank you for sharing!!
Man I love your content. I've followed you for 5 years or so. I sure miss the humor that used to be part of your videos. What happened?
Not enough people miss it :)
@@StumpyNubs I'm 74. The world needs humor more than ever. I'll keep watching, regardless.
Add me to the list of folks that miss the humor :(
William Branham - Add this 75 yr young guy to the slip-humor-in list.
@@mikekernjr5121 I don't think Stumpy's humor poll was correct. At least the name Stumpy Nubs is funny. With his injury it almost became true.
Great video! I learned stuff and I got some ideas.
A bunch of great ideas presented. Thanks for the tips, especially the links to suppliers. The stuff from Duragrit really looks good.
Lots of great information in this video James, thanks for sharing it.
Thanks James, another excellent learning opportunity. Thanks always for sharing, Cheers from BC,
Hello again Sir 👋
As I said few days ago in one of Your videos comments "Instant Subscription" & "Going through Yours vids One by One Now!" here I'm and Learning Again new stuff 🤩 but most importantly I'm on the hunt for "Duragrit" products in here in Europe thanks to Your ever Great and Excellent knowledge of the contents of Another Superior Contribution to Our Woodworking community here on TH-cam - On behalf of many Others here *Thank You Sir*
Mike from Ireland 🇮🇪 💪
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Dura Grit Carbide Sanding Products: (Use Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS): duragrit.com/home.php
Links to stuff in this video►
Carbide sanding blocks (Use Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS)- duragrit.com/home.php
Adhesive backed sandpaper- amzn.to/2CMQw8p
Rubber profile sanders- amzn.to/2WBhEhx
Cork blocks- amzn.to/3fPssAg
Semi-rigid blocks for hook and loop sanding discs- amzn.to/2WEkh2t
Custom moulding knives and sanding blocks- mywoodcutters.com
Foam backer rod- amzn.to/3fMXyss
Sanding sponges (medium)- amzn.to/2E3cJjf
(We may recieve a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links)
Video about sandpaper► th-cam.com/video/0srywz2SwQo/w-d-xo.html
You mention a video about sandpaper and grits. And that you would link to this video below.
I cant find it though.
@@johanflodkvist80 Video about sandpaper► th-cam.com/video/0srywz2SwQo/w-d-xo.html
You consistently put out solid content, and it’s definitely appreciated. Please keep it up,
I prefer using 3-1/4 in. x 8-3/4 in. Drywall Hand Sander sold at Home Depot. They have about 1/8” firm rubber or foam backing. Standard sheets can be cut to width and are the perfect length to attach to these.
This had a lot of great information in it! Thanks for sharing this.
another awesome video, thank you so much for sharing all of your hard earned experience!
Great video James.
Sir, Your show is a God Send. I have a huge project doing a 35 foot teak yacht. (35x2 port and starboard.) Learning alot from your show and it is saving me time. The owner is on my case.... I have Cleaned the bright work (teak) and ready to sand. I hate sanding. Going over my tools and looking at the sanding spung.
My question is: Can I Wet Sand teak with the a sanding spung and garden hose, going across the grain and save time?
The owner is a real bastard. Comes down and barks orders like He's a Captain of a ship. Keeps telling me stuff like "When I was your age I working longer hours. And we loved it."
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Lots of useful tips, as always, well organized and explained. Thanks much and thumbs up to crush a troll.
Just bought the square sanding block.
Thanks Jim, that was a great video.. almost skipped it 'cause I thought I was pretty clued up, then discovered, after watching, I wasn't as clued up as I thought! Damn! Thanks for sharing with us.. Would love to get some of those carbide sanding products but after courier and duty charges, they become damn expensive here in South Africa, so will stick to traditional sanding paper..
Haaaaaa yes, swimming pool noodles of pipe insulation!!
Thanks very much, I had NO idea how I was going to fill a concave profile on my car!!
Body shop suppliers are so expensive too 👌
OK stumpy, you win, at long last. I'll go buy some merch, or plans, or something. This is *EXACTLY* what I've been looking for, lately.
I appreciate that! Buy something from Duragrit. They are the video sponsor, and when you support them, you support me too :) (Use Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS): duragrit.com/home.php
Love the yoga brick idea, thanks.
I've made my own contoured profile blocks for complex moldings just using chunks of the think pink bldg foam I keep around for breaking down sheet goods. Not very hard
Thanks for sharing that, well said!
Thanks for the video! I have never tried, but was wondering if using a piece of custom trim to make a mold, along with some low expansion spray foam, if you could get a useable custom sanding block? Anyone ever tried this?
Garry not Linda. The spray foam doesn't have a lot of structural body, I probably wouldn't bother. Auto body filler, epoxy putty as suggested in some of the other comments would be better choices.
Hi, they may be great if you live in the USA, but with tax and shipping the price can be 3 or even 4 times as much
Very helpful! But I have a question: In the process of getting the wood ready for applying a finish what other methods are used and when? For example I have a scraper that some say is needed before final finish. Do I sand before or after using the scraper? Had great results with both but not sure if it was newbee luck. Please advise.
It depends on which process you like, and the result you want. In the old days they planed and scraped most everything. Modern woodworkers seem to prefer power tools that use sandpaper, so sandpaper is a familiar choice for hand work too. Scraping is less dusty, but you have to know what you're doing to use and sharpen a scraper. A scraper also creates a different surface. It will be smoother to the touch, but can appear a little scalloped under the right light. A scraped surface also won't take stain or dye as well because it's the fine scratches that hold the most color. Bottom line: You can just sand, you can just scrape, but few people do both.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks! Nice to know the difference! I guess I was lucky. I scrapped then did a lot of sanding. I put on five coats of polyurethane with sanding in between. No stain or dye so it looks great and is very smooth with no scallops. It did take a lot of time and lots of sandpaper! Not a fast worker like the pros.
How and what would you use to sand a vase shaped oxidized piece of aluminum which has has rounded curves in all directions?
I use a, SandBag Kinetic Sander... any ANY shape
In the video it looks like you glue a self adhesive piece of sandpaper to a cork yoga block. Can you remove it and put a new one on without destroying the surface of the block?
It peels right off.
Thanks. Great idea.
Excellent talk and explanations yet again. Now off to link and look at what I need to purchase and how to get it to NZ. Thanks James, am REALLY enjoying your vid-torials...and no plonkers thumbs down yet....why do they just have to do that?
A lot of good ideas here, Jim. Thank you.
So that's where my iced tea mug went. Going to have to keep an eye on you.
Separately, can that bandsaw fence extrusion be bought by itself (around 5:00)?
Contact Harvey Machinery and ask them. Tell them you want the fence extrusion from the C-14 band saw: www.harveywoodworking.com/collections/bandsaws
Does anybody know how good dust collection is with 5'' disc if your sanders holes don't line up. I have the Festool ETSC 125, thanks.
What do you think about a pneumatic sander. over two feel long and goes back and forth many times a minute. I don't have one, but do wonder.
Great video, is your semi rigid sanding block heavy? I just picked one up at harbor freight and it feels like it's 2 lbs.
What about using the carbide on stone with water? Will that work? Awesome vid, thanks
Stone will eat a duragrit. If you want to flatten stone use silicon carbide powder.
Cris Wilson how do you grind and carve and especially shape with powdered grit.
@@doctorofart If you are trying to flatten rock you use a steel plate with SIC between the rock and plate. If you are carving a rock, use a cold chisel. If you are "sanding" a shape in a rock, use leather to move the SIC around.
Where are the links to products referenced in you tutorials, below the comments, when accessed on mobile phone.
In the video description below the video and also pinned to the top of the comments section.
When doing final finish sanding could you use an electric sheet sander to avoid the swirls of scratch marks?
Depends if it sands in a linear direction or if it just vibrates/orbits.
When KFC was taking off, the colonel moved up to Canada to kick off KFC here. The US has bought him out by that time and messed with his recipe while Canada had his original. Americans were not happy and some actually drove up here to have the recipe they remembered. Due to odd licensing, I think they called it 'Scots Chicken Villa'. Now it's probably just the same as the US.
What is your opinion of 1/4 sheet finish sanders?
Could you route a sanding profile into a cork block slice?
Sure you can.
Great video but, after an exhaustive search, I can't get Dura-Grit products in Australia...or even anything like them :-(
Try Permagrit. I have one of their small wedge sanding blocks. It was originally bought to sand carbon fibre and fibreglass, but it does equally well on wood. My daughter used it to shape some Purpleheart. She found it quicker than a rasp and left a smoother finish.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Tim (from Australia 🇦🇺)
I use the nearest scrap wood or my hand😂😂
Anybody try 3D printing a block to fit a custom shaped profile?
Please promise not to laugh. I do some very fine scroll-saw work which needs
a slight amount of clean-up on the edges. I have diamond files that work great but
take time. Lets say I just stack cut 3 items ... great now I have 3X to clean up. Well it's
not as bad as it sounds because on the bottom will have the biggest clean-up and the
other edges will be not as bad. Does anyone make a "sanding bead" ? Something I could
put in my rock tumbler to clean-up ALL the three at once !! Of course they have to be small
since some of the edges are very fine and fragile. One thing I'm concerned about is grit.
I really don't want to put three scroll-saw projects in the tumbler and 15 min later find
just saw dust left. My gut tells that's way I have not seen " sanding beads ".
All I can suggest is trying different sanding media and see what happens.
👍👍👍
Picked up a carbide sanding block a few months back and it puts gouges in the surface. At first, I thought it was catching the corners so I bent them up to get them out of the way. Still left gouges. Visually inspected for loose or uneven grit and found nothing. Put it away for a few months and tried it again with the same results. Dunno what the deal is. Chucked it into the garbage can. Great idea though.
Why didn't you contact them? You obviously got a bad one. It's likely rare, but that happens once in a while with any tool. By throwing it away you cost yourself money and denied them a chance to show you, and those who read your post, that they stand behind their products.
Have you been watching me in my shop? :-)
Yes. And we need to chat about your nose picking habit...
@@StumpyNubs Lol.
Power sand, then go back with a card scraper.
2nd
1