real nice, usually people don't explain this on youtube videos. i once saw a video that explains that, bumping iso up and using nd to controll when you are shooting outdoors, keep it up
Hey Tyler, this was very informative thank you! Would love to see an extension of this video on how you handle this exposure scenario in Davinci Resolve. How your exposure settings would affect a final/graded image. Love the RED content, all of it is very helpful. Cheers!
Thanks for watching! I touched on this in the video, but essentially, my aim is to get the look in camera, so after I apply a REC709 transform, I am not making any major exposure changes but rather just grading/creative decisions if that makes sense.
the comment about sony releasing new cameras man 😂 great video Tyler as always and super informative. Exposure on the komodo can be a bit of a minefield
It would be very interesting to aee how ISO affects the dynamic range in HDR. HDR is very unforgiving and since the lamp looks considerably darker in ISO 400 that would immediately show in HDR. The limited dynamic range of Rec.709 hides so many flaws really well so i'm not suprised the industry hasn't fully adopted the better technology yet.
I get that changing shutter angle works on a static image but this would introduce motion blur into something moving, right? Isn't using ND a far more practical solution?
Nice piece of video Tyler, food for thought. As I understand this, this linear sensors behave such that, when you have plenty of light in the scene, it is better to let less light get in and increase the ISO from native 800, than to keep the ISO at native 800, or to let more light get in and lower the ISO. The former approach preserves more total dynamic range, and allocates more stops to the highlight areas, something desirable when there is plenty of light in the scene. Conversely, this linear sensors behave such that, when you don't have too much light in the scene (dark scene), it is better to let more light get in and lower the ISO from native 800, than to keep the ISO at native 800, or to let less light get in and increase the ISO (this is obviously a bad idea). Here, also, you can preserve more total dynamic range, and allocate more stops to the shadow areas, something desirable on these types of dark scenes. It seems that Tyler is pointing to RED's version of Sony's exposure index technique: the idea in Sony cameras is not to manipulate the native ISO of the sensor (because it affects total dynamic range), but to play with the amount of light that reaches the sensor, depending on the type of scene (luminous versus dark). Since RED records raw, ISO changes don't affect the data that the camera records, but you can play in camera with its potential effects on exposure to change the amount of light that reaches the sensor, trying to preserve the maximum amount of total dynamic range and distribute stops in a way appropriate to the scene. This is the way I came to understand this. I am new to this, so please let me know guys if I say something that you consider inaccurate or if I am missing something.
Im a bit confused. You said that you has loss of detail in the highlights. Wouldn't you bring you exposure up in order to get more detail in the highlights? Like for darker scenes you would bring the exposure down.
I've never shot with Red. But, doesn't the higher ISO introduce more noise at some point? Or is Red more forgiving with higher ISOs? Or does ETTR clean up any increase in noise? Thanks for this. Since the Komodo X came out, I've been interested in Red, again.
Higher ISO increase noise and detail in the shadows. For daylight exterior stuff like in the example I showed, I prioritize highlights over shadows. That is the part of the technical and creative decision point when selecting ISO. I don't ETTR, on this camera. I expose how I want it to look.
This is probably a dumb question so I apologize but... Is there a horizon level overlay on the Komodo? I just rented one all week and couldn't find it!
So if you go to 3600 ISO - you're setting that on the Komdo X - then when you import it into your editor you aren't changing it much in the RED RAW settings right? It's funny cause it seems that to retain your highlights you bump UP the ISO, and to retain your Shadows you drop Down the ISO - it seems opposite of what you would do...i.e. the highlights are blown out, so increase your iso (of course also change your shutter) - so Using ND"s you'd cut exposure by say 2 stops and just keep your iso around 800 - right? @@TylerEdwards
real nice, usually people don't explain this on youtube videos.
i once saw a video that explains that, bumping iso up and using nd to controll when you are shooting outdoors, keep it up
This was so helpful and easy to follow- thank you!!!
Thanks for the video. Some good points to consider for exposure.
Hey Tyler, this was very informative thank you! Would love to see an extension of this video on how you handle this exposure scenario in Davinci Resolve. How your exposure settings would affect a final/graded image. Love the RED content, all of it is very helpful. Cheers!
Thanks for watching! I touched on this in the video, but essentially, my aim is to get the look in camera, so after I apply a REC709 transform, I am not making any major exposure changes but rather just grading/creative decisions if that makes sense.
Now I get it! Thank you!!!
Glad it helped!
the comment about sony releasing new cameras man 😂 great video Tyler as always and super informative. Exposure on the komodo can be a bit of a minefield
😂 ya I was trying to match the a roll shots and gave up.
Definitely helped. Thanks!
Thank you so much! Pls keep going!
Thanks!
Fantastic video and explanation. Thank you! Subbed!
Thanks! Welcome aboard
This is great advice!
Thanks man! Always great seeing you drop by
It would be very interesting to aee how ISO affects the dynamic range in HDR. HDR is very unforgiving and since the lamp looks considerably darker in ISO 400 that would immediately show in HDR. The limited dynamic range of Rec.709 hides so many flaws really well so i'm not suprised the industry hasn't fully adopted the better technology yet.
I get that changing shutter angle works on a static image but this would introduce motion blur into something moving, right? Isn't using ND a far more practical solution?
Ya, I mention in the video I just used shutter angle because it was the fastest method for this example
Nice piece of video Tyler, food for thought.
As I understand this, this linear sensors behave such that, when you have plenty of light in the scene, it is better to let less light get in and increase the ISO from native 800, than to keep the ISO at native 800, or to let more light get in and lower the ISO. The former approach preserves more total dynamic range, and allocates more stops to the highlight areas, something desirable when there is plenty of light in the scene.
Conversely, this linear sensors behave such that, when you don't have too much light in the scene (dark scene), it is better to let more light get in and lower the ISO from native 800, than to keep the ISO at native 800, or to let less light get in and increase the ISO (this is obviously a bad idea). Here, also, you can preserve more total dynamic range, and allocate more stops to the shadow areas, something desirable on these types of dark scenes.
It seems that Tyler is pointing to RED's version of Sony's exposure index technique: the idea in Sony cameras is not to manipulate the native ISO of the sensor (because it affects total dynamic range), but to play with the amount of light that reaches the sensor, depending on the type of scene (luminous versus dark). Since RED records raw, ISO changes don't affect the data that the camera records, but you can play in camera with its potential effects on exposure to change the amount of light that reaches the sensor, trying to preserve the maximum amount of total dynamic range and distribute stops in a way appropriate to the scene.
This is the way I came to understand this. I am new to this, so please let me know guys if I say something that you consider inaccurate or if I am missing something.
There isn’t a native ISO in R3D and dynamic range of the sensor doesn’t change with ISO; only the middle grey point shifts
Do you adjust your white balance or kelvin on your Komodo to match your Komodo X? For example tint on Komodo -2 etc? What are your settings?
Most of the work is done in the shadows. Depends on the light source.
I thought ISO didn't matter nor change anything when shooting raw. Can you explain?
That’s what I did in this video…
Im a bit confused. You said that you has loss of detail in the highlights. Wouldn't you bring you exposure up in order to get more detail in the highlights? Like for darker scenes you would bring the exposure down.
I've never shot with Red. But, doesn't the higher ISO introduce more noise at some point? Or is Red more forgiving with higher ISOs? Or does ETTR clean up any increase in noise? Thanks for this. Since the Komodo X came out, I've been interested in Red, again.
Higher ISO increase noise and detail in the shadows. For daylight exterior stuff like in the example I showed, I prioritize highlights over shadows. That is the part of the technical and creative decision point when selecting ISO. I don't ETTR, on this camera. I expose how I want it to look.
This is probably a dumb question so I apologize but... Is there a horizon level overlay on the Komodo? I just rented one all week and couldn't find it!
I’d have to check I’m not sure to be honest. I always use the one on my smallhd monitor
@@TylerEdwards Right on. I didn't know the SmallHD had one either?
It doesn’t have one
@@TylerEdwardswhat is horizon overlay?
Do you use this also for lower iso to protect the shadows ?
Yup just depends on the scene if I want more info allocated to the shadows
So if I'm getting this right lower shutter angle and buff the iso just to visually see it better on monitors?
I’d recommend using ND or lens aperture instead of using shutter. I just used shutter as an example in this video
So if you go to 3600 ISO - you're setting that on the Komdo X - then when you import it into your editor you aren't changing it much in the RED RAW settings right? It's funny cause it seems that to retain your highlights you bump UP the ISO, and to retain your Shadows you drop Down the ISO - it seems opposite of what you would do...i.e. the highlights are blown out, so increase your iso (of course also change your shutter) - so Using ND"s you'd cut exposure by say 2 stops and just keep your iso around 800 - right? @@TylerEdwards