Just a heads up: I followed your guide to make this tool and it works great. Super accurate and 100% repeatable. I made two changes however.... I used 3 screw legs instead of 2....putting two next to each other at one end of the tool. This allows the tool to stand straight and eliminates any side to side rocking motion while holding the tool. The other addition was some plastic cap nuts to cover the ends of the legs. This should prevent scratching of the rims.
Nice video showing how simple it is to make a really useful tool. Years ago, when I was racing small sports cars, I had to make a lot of my own such tools. Some of these tips have already been mentioned a gazillion times here in the comments, but I'll just put a couple together here in one place. 1) Instead of solid angle stock for the bar, use "strut hangers" (your terminology may be different), which have a multitude of holes and slots all along the length. Saves you drilling and also makes the tool easily adaptable for other vehicles. 2) The raw bolt ends WILL scratch wheels. Either stick a one-time small piece of electrical tape (single thickness) on the end of each bolt, or plasti-dip them, or sand and highly polish them so there are no sharp edges. If you use vacuum caps, you will likely not get identical lengths so you'll need a way to adjust the bolt length (see #3 below) 3) Use full-thread bolts and 2 nuts (vs 1) on each bolt so that you can adjust the length precisely if needed. 4) If you don't use the strut hangers, then consider using aluminum for your angle bar, and glue or rivet a piece of steel to it as a mount for your magnetic angle finder. It will be lighter overall and easier to smooth/'polish out the bar ends so that there is less chance of scratching the car if you should touch it with the tool. NOTE: If you use aluminum,, then it will be much easier for the bar to get bent so handle/store it very carefully 5) You can check the bar for straightness before you start. Use string pulled tight from one end of the bar to the other, across the edges or flats. Cheaper and more trustworthy than a formal straight edge tool. 6) Check your angle-finder and your entire rig for straightness and zero-point, together. Find any surface at all. Put the tool there and check the angle. Then spin the tool 180 degrees and do it again. If you don't get the same readout, then either the rig or the angle-finder has a problem. You can do this to easily check your bubble levels, too, of course. I don't offer these suggestions because you did anything wrong, but only to share my own learning from past trial and (lots of) error. I'm looking forward to your DIY alignment video!
You go, girl!!! Sister mechanic, I loved the vid, you are an excellent teacher and you made finding camber a lot simpler than I thought it would be. Many thanks.
Good job, no matter how many guys say something a bit negative or try to leave the impression they know how to do this or that better. The fact is that the explanation is excellent, and you did a good job. Thanks
Might be late to the party here, but when drilling, in addition to what I seen someone else say, position the bar in the vise so that the drilling location is closer to the vise and more secure and start by using a smaller bit first. Now I'll tell you what took me many, many, many drill bits, time and immense frustration to learn. When drilling steel, especially hardened steel: #1 Use a harder material drill bit than the steel. Like cobalt. #2 Slower is better. Like a lot better. Speed creates a lot of friction, which creates a lot of heat. Slower speeds allow the drill bit to "bite" into the metal much better. Which takes us to, #3 Use pressure by pushing down on the drill to make the bit bite even more into the metal. #4 Use some kind of lubricant on the bit/hole to cool the bit down while drilling. They make drilling oil for that or you can use some other oil or WD40. Could probably even use water, but I never have. I learned all these the hard way. Like I learn everything. I must have destroyed 20-30 drill bits trying to drill one freaking hole in a piece of angle iron one time. Then I did lots of research. And that's what I learned. Use a harder material than what your drilling, go slow, press harder and use something to cool and lubricate the bit and the metal. I guess just that sentence could have replaced the whole comment, but I guess I like to hear myself talk... er, uh, type.
Good Video to show you don't need a 400$ store system to do what you did for 30$ Some Advice & warnings Your drill holes. I built one from Aluminum, drill one fixed hole at the bottom and then drill multiple holes right next to each other at the top, then use your grinder, a hack saw or a file to make the holes into a slot. That way you get a perfect fit and it will work on different tires! You can use aluminum, cheaper and lighter and wont rust, just epoxy a magnet or two to the side! Also use a piece from the same angle to make a horizontal piece. I made the horizontal bar and put slots at the end so I can adjust for different rims, plus the ability to get hard friction fit, which you cant get with the way you drilled holes. Use a punch to start the hole, I saw wobble when you drilled, this gives accurate holes. Danger Will Robinson ! Don't ever stand to the side of a grinder as you did, the blade was completely facing your Face, if it breaks or chips your in for brain surgery, really its a very dangerous thing, stand in back of the guard. Do not use the grinder to cut from underneath the bar, its always on top, theres to much wrong and again dangerous to that to mention. Great job, I cant believe they sell these things for 200-400$ on Amazon. Oh one more thing, youll need to turn your tires to do camber caster alignment, rather than the 100-200$ tire turning pods on amazon, just put 2 pcs of cardboard under your tire with grease inbetween them, turns like a 200$ overpriced pod
Thanks helpful .i was able to align my chamber evenly before my husband return from work he was surprised i aligned it perfectly. Hehe! Thanks great video you were straight to the point.i didn't lose interest.
When you're drilling holes, _especially_ drilling into metals, center punches are your friend. I usually start with a 1/8" bit, and then work up, at least when I'm not using the drill press.
Hi, Nice diy with some comments I think you may consider to use: you can use 2 nuts on each bolt- like a sandwich: nut-angle_bar-nut- you turn the bolt until you have desired height and tide it with the other nut on the back. Another way is to cut the thread in the holes of angle-bar and use nut to lock it in place. Also using cheap carpenter level instead of fancy tool is also an option. I'm using camber tool with magnet and bubble (~$35 on e-bay). For drilling you better use slow speed with cutting oil- you will save the drill bit. Good drill bits are expensive! Use of drill press helps a lot. Also knock a notch on the metal with center punch before you start drilling. Another way to make it simple- use aluminum angle bar and glue piece of metal in the center with epoxy glue to have camber magnet gauge stick to it. Good luck!
DigiPas DWL80E level with angle gauge. Currently about $26 shipped with Amazon Prime. Magnet, horizontal and vertical bubble levels, and digital angle gauge. I like your idea of using epoxy to attach a piece of steel to a piece of aluminum angle. I would like to put together an adjustable bar, and I'm not crazy about the idea of trying to cut a slot in steel angle.
I am very impressed. I've watched a few of your videos for some of the DIY projects I've done on my Mazda 3, and you have been very helpful each time. Keep up the good work. :)
A good and simple old school solution for checking and adjusting front-end camber, just the way a DIY tool should be. It’s the same basic principle I used when I designed my homemade toe and caster tools. And, no it’s not as accurate as using a professional laser aligner, but with the ridiculously high prices shops are charging now days, it’s good enough. I'm also glad to see someone else sees the value in using Harbor freight tools, buying a Harbor Freight electric cutoff tool like the one being used in this video turned out to be one of the best tool purchases I ever made, an air cutoff tools can’t even come close to matching it’s cutting performance. Good job girl…
Despite improper shop safety, inadequate tools, etc., she's got her head on. A steel plate c/be riveted to an ALUMINUM angle and slots instead of holes would make it a more versatile tool. Necessity IS the mother of invention!
Brilliant idea! I found an old steel corner piece from one of those grey shelving units (conveniently has holes already drilled). Have calipers to measure protrusion of each bolt from face of angle iron. Ordered an angle gauge. Recommend a piece of electrical tape on top & bottom of wheel to prevent bolts scratching. Can now confidently set camber on my FJ Cruiser that I put all new lifted suspension on. Thank you!
Thank you, I am the main crew person for my husbands race car and the go to person when the car needs any mechanical work. (he only had one dnf last year because he developed a vacuum leak during the race) The looks I get in the pits, well we won't go there, there needs to be more people with open minds who realize gender don't mean anything. Once again thanks for your support.
tell that to women, so Its not such a rarity to find one who can build a small block. Edit: I love how some people can manage to thumbs down this comment.
Al Licks- Good luck finding one. They do exist but are as easy to find as fairies and gold at the end of the rainbow. All of the women I have met are all about the cash. The more cash you have, the more you see them. The less cash you have, well you know the rest.
The one measurement that I did not see done was the one to CENTER the bar between the floor and the top of the wheel well. If you had done that, it would not have extended above the wheel well when you used it. And if you measured so that is was NOT LONGER than that length (floor to top of wheel well) then you should have made it so that it was CENTERED......so all you need to do is go back, remeasure, this time CENTERED, and cut the new holes...and it will be perfect. Apart from that this was PER-FECT! Thanks so much, will be making mine soon.
Everyone is blinded by her beauty and not thinking that her alignment can be a little off, since she didn't check if the floor of her garage is PERFECTLY horizontal! Most garages are not PERFECTLY horizontal, because if you wash it, the water needs to go toward the drain or toward the door, so the water can go outside. If the floor is leveled 2 degrees off horizontal, then in order to keep the 90° tire contact with the ground, you need to set your camber alignment 2 degrees off 90° vertical, too! Simple geometry!
Agreed. Also, would not holding the bar completely vertical effect the camber reading? I would think that it changes if the bar is not exactly 12/6 o'clock, or am I mistaken?
@Vince Panov: The entire garage does NOT need to be perfectly level... It NEVER will be. The only thing that matters is the portion between the passenger side and drivers side. Even if you are on an incline driveway, that does not matter as long as the pass to drivers side is LEVEL... We are not checking camber between the front or back, only pass tire to drivers tire .. So ONLY that side needs to be level as much as possible ... And another, NO garage floor is a perfect level ... it may be off by a degree or two and if it is, you take that into consideration when testing
@Eganwp: Incline or decline garage floor has NO affect on camber readings... What matters is that the floor between the passenger side and drivers side are level ...
Great job in demonstrating the principle. It doesn't matter if some techniques for, say, cutting, could be improved. If one is ambitious enough to DIY this, they'll figure out the best ways to cut, drill, etc. good job here.
No they might not figure out 'better' ways - they will do it like the video and think it is correct. The correct ways are listed in many peoples comments. Hopefully she will take them under advisement and implement them in her future endeavors.
I love to see women doing what could be termed engineering work. I feel we're finally shedding the old mentality, or mantality if you like. Great job, and informative
Lol i just used the tire it self as this tool. I picked up a 06 chevy z71 that had bad spots on the inside of my tires.so I just gave the bolts that hold the torsion bars a couple turns and it not only fixed it but it leveled the truck a bit.i did go to far at 1st that was not good and what I did is not really a good fix but it will due lol. This is a nice little tool you made though and I will be making one to use with all my cars.
Don't need to get an angle cube if your cellphone has angle finder. My Chinese Doogee phone also has accurate direction measuring so toe in and caster can be measured. For toe simply figure the difference in degrees needed. For caster adjustment turn the wheels the required angle and measure for the required change in vertical angle. Of course adjust the camber as in this video first and figure true vertical or difference from camber depending how you secs are listed.. For your turning plate you can use greased cutting boards from a Dollar store or greased steel plates. Of course check if your suspension parts are good and tight and if applicable tighten up steering box first. The other way to do this is watch for ads for alignment specials and take your vehicle to this place. The point of the shops giving low alignment prices is to get your vehicle in to do suspension work. If they tell you you need to replace certain parts either take your car home and check or take your car to another shop to have those parts checked. I have seen cases where brand new parts have been claimed to be needing replaced by some of these alignment shops. Of course replace any needed parts and have the alignment adjusted after. Most alignment deals are pay for the alignment and either have them do the suspension repair or you can bring the car back to get the alignment job finished after you get the parts replaced. The mechanics are paid on a commission on repairs often with quotas so this is the reason for the prevalence of unneeded repair recommendations. Yeah, one reason to do it yourself.
I know you probably bought that Chicago Electric 3"(Harbor Freight) cut-off for this video...But that thing kicks butt...it'll handle just about anything you grab it for...nice video! I actually need to do this...my Saturn Sky is a little off since dropping it (1.3")...I'm looking forward to your alignment video...
Craig Cundiff Yup that's the one. I think I paid ~$20 for it and it's never let me down. It even came with a spares set of brushes. We're going to try and put a lot of time and research into our alignment video. We're even going to take the car to an alignment shop after we're done to have our worked checked. Stay tuned!
Good video, a few safety concerns, but there are a couple things I'd like to add. I have never found a perfectly level surface, other than shops, and it never mattered much because it was to check fluids and the slight slants didn't affect it enough to hurt. A simpler, and cheaper, way to accomplish this would be: 1. Measure the diameter of the rim. To do this properly take your measuring device, preferably string, pin one end to the outermost point of the rim and take the other end, running it along the opposite outside edge of the rim until you get the longest point on the string and measure it, this will be your true diameter rather than being too far to the left or right, resulting in different measurements. 2. Find a bar or even a straight block of wood and position bolts, or pins of some kind of equal length, to the measurement of your rim. (Note: there must be enough overhang to touch the ground and both outer points of the rim) 3. Take an angle square and position it with the ground and bar and keep taking mesurements until you have a perfect 45° angle. This will work regardless of how level the place is, as long as the ground itself is a flat surface. If you really want to make sure you're at 45° you can extend the square with anything straight, such as a ruler or bar. This tool will only work with a perfectly level environment. To put it into perspective, think about it as if you were to do this on a (flat) surface that was on a steep hill. The car would be slanted according to gravity and the surface, but the tires would be straight up and down according to gravity. Say you do have a perfectly level surface. Build your bar and bolt setup in the same manner (it won't matter if the board reaches the ground so long as the bolts make contact with the outside of the rim). Take, or make, an L bracket (L=45°) and position one flat edge vertically on the bar. Next take a protractor and secure a string perfectly in the center point, and tie a nut, or some weighty object to keep the string taught, to the other end of the string. The string must be long enough to reach past the 45° mark. Now hold the flat edge of the protractor flush with the underside of the horizontal leg of the L bracket. Continue this until the string is at 45° perfectly.
personally i would go about achieving the desired results in a slightly different manner. First i would use a side grinder to cut the metal angle iron then sand the burs off with it (cuts quicker and sands quicker) If you really are worried about the burs or edges grab your dremel tool with a sanding drum in place and hit the edges with it. Next i would use a drill bit with the correct size but i would choose a bit with a "speed point" tip on it this style tip eliminates the need for a punch and is very effective, with it's anti-walk engineering built in. Next instead of filing all day on the bolt ends i would again use my dremel tool with sanding drum attached and sand away quickly any material that needed removing from the excess length of the bolt(s). Finally i would never assume any surface is plumb and would first verify plumb by using at least a 4' bubble level. I think she also uses the term level when she really means plumb. And i also plan on making the bolt holes with a slot instead of just a single unmovable hole this way i can accommodate multiple rim sizes!
Well done, cool video, I am going to build that tool for myself. Cutting steel like that is easier by using a regular good quality hand saw plus less noise.
To get a more accurate starting position when beginning to drill, use a drill about a quarter size of what is required on a low speed setting until it makes a slight divet in metal. Then step it up to half the size required on high speed, then 3/4, then full size, slowly making the divet larger along the way. Additionally, I would adjust the beam in the vice so that the mark for drilling is within 2 inches from the vice to avoid twisting while applying downward pressure while drilling, just in case...
I bought a camber/caster level off of wish for around $10. Remove wheels and set hub assembly down on blocks with 2 or 3 pieces of cardboard in between them.stick it to the top of the rotor (magnetic) and Get to work. Have to level it out on something level first, but it's pretty accurate.. I put my truck on blocks for the air ride suspension.had to keep adjusting the pressure in the air bags with the wheels off
Nice tool. Just two suggestions: The tool you refer to as an "angle grinder" is actually a straight grinder. In an angle grinder, the wheel's axis of rotation is perpendicular to that of the straight grinder. As many other commenters have said, you should center punch the hole locations prior to drilling. It will improve the accuracy of your hole placement a lot.
You have great videos. One lesson (you will carry this through life). Before you drill ANY hole in metal, use an autopunch (cost just a few dollars). Press, click , POP...it makes a divot easy squeezy so when you go to drill, the drill bit doesn't walk all over the place. One time and you will never ever drill a hole in metal again without it (yes, I learned after a LONG time myself..lol)
You were using a cut-off or grinding tool, that would depend on what type of wheel you mounted on it. I prefer the 90 degree die grinder. It has interchangeable arbors for cutting wheels, burrs, even drill bits. MUCH better control and much easier to use, and therefore MUCH safer! (and MUCH more versatile! ) Just another comment dear, when using a file, only file in ONE direction! when you 'scrub' the file back and forth, it will flatten the cutting edges of the file and then it becomes worthless. Also I would recommend de-burring the drill bit holes (both sides) before inserting the bolts (you could use the same die grinder with the wheel already in it! :D ). This would ensure the bolt heads and shoulders are laying FLAT on he angle bar.
When you took it to check the alignment were you close to manufacturers specs? I was interested in buying the name brand gauge but for almost 300$ it makes sense to pay for the alignment. Your solution changes that significantly.
If your just replacing a strut measure from inside of the wheel rotor to somewhere in the fender liner before and set to that after. Nice tool there for finding the correct angle but it could be difficult to access the camber bolt with the wheel on, it would be slightly less accurate but smaller if you made this tool for the brake rotor. I do like the idea of using the angle finder.
A couple of tips: You need to clamp the spot that you're going to drill, cut or grind much closer to the vise so the piece does not shake and create a unsafe situation. When drilling holes don't just start with your final drill or else the bit will dance unsafely (like in this video) and potentially skate off or drill into the wrong spot. Instead stop the spot with a sharp center punch first so the drill bit will bite into that divot and not dance around dangerously or you can drill a pilot hole with a tiny drill bit (they will bite and drill through without dancing, try it) then go to the final drill bit to make the hole.
Sure there are a few not-so-good techniques and terms used here but she's trying which is a big positive. My gal loves learning how to use tools, has become decent at it too. She's up to changing her own oil as long as I watch but each time she does it she needs me less and less.
Thanks so much for this video. I plan to make one of these tools, but will look through the cabinet and furniture hardware section to find nylon or rubber bump stops with studs to use instead of bolts so that I don't scratch my rim surface...... Barstool feet may be the answer. Also note that holes can be drilled so that one tool fits multiple rim sizes. I think studded barstool feet or bumpstops with equal length sleeves and wing nuts would make a very versatile tool.
Really nice video and I can't wait for the alignment because I have a 2008 mazdaspeed3 and it turns to the right when the steering wheel is straight. I took it to my local mazda dealership and they said it would cost me over $200 idk why. But I looking for a way without the alignment machine but anyway nice work u guys need way more subs
+spoon games I love DIY stuff, but to me the hassle of alignment isn't worth it. I got a lifetime alignment deal on mine and it already paid for itself. I would rather work on something else that is more costly or somewhere where professional mechanics can you hard on the bill (engine or transmission).
Just a heads up: I followed your guide to make this tool and it works great. Super accurate and 100% repeatable. I made two changes however.... I used 3 screw legs instead of 2....putting two next to each other at one end of the tool. This allows the tool to stand straight and eliminates any side to side rocking motion while holding the tool. The other addition was some plastic cap nuts to cover the ends of the legs. This should prevent scratching of the rims.
can we stop arguing about tools and just acknowledge that this girl is what dreams are made of?!?!
Gurls and tools!
peep541 Thank You!!
Wish we could mute the Neanderthals on TH-cam...
peep541 l have to mute her voice....she sounds like a broken tool😅😅
john jay i
Nice video showing how simple it is to make a really useful tool.
Years ago, when I was racing small sports cars, I had to make a lot of my own such tools. Some of these tips have already been mentioned a gazillion times here in the comments, but I'll just put a couple together here in one place.
1) Instead of solid angle stock for the bar, use "strut hangers" (your terminology may be different), which have a multitude of holes and slots all along the length. Saves you drilling and also makes the tool easily adaptable for other vehicles.
2) The raw bolt ends WILL scratch wheels. Either stick a one-time small piece of electrical tape (single thickness) on the end of each bolt, or plasti-dip them, or sand and highly polish them so there are no sharp edges. If you use vacuum caps, you will likely not get identical lengths so you'll need a way to adjust the bolt length (see #3 below)
3) Use full-thread bolts and 2 nuts (vs 1) on each bolt so that you can adjust the length precisely if needed.
4) If you don't use the strut hangers, then consider using aluminum for your angle bar, and glue or rivet a piece of steel to it as a mount for your magnetic angle finder. It will be lighter overall and easier to smooth/'polish out the bar ends so that there is less chance of scratching the car if you should touch it with the tool. NOTE: If you use aluminum,, then it will be much easier for the bar to get bent so handle/store it very carefully
5) You can check the bar for straightness before you start. Use string pulled tight from one end of the bar to the other, across the edges or flats. Cheaper and more trustworthy than a formal straight edge tool.
6) Check your angle-finder and your entire rig for straightness and zero-point, together. Find any surface at all. Put the tool there and check the angle. Then spin the tool 180 degrees and do it again. If you don't get the same readout, then either the rig or the angle-finder has a problem. You can do this to easily check your bubble levels, too, of course.
I don't offer these suggestions because you did anything wrong, but only to share my own learning from past trial and (lots of) error.
I'm looking forward to your DIY alignment video!
You go, girl!!! Sister mechanic, I loved the vid, you are an excellent teacher and you made finding camber a lot simpler than I thought it would be. Many thanks.
Thanks, very nice
Good job, no matter how many guys say something a bit negative or try to leave the impression they know how to do this or that better. The fact is that the explanation is excellent, and you did a good job. Thanks
Thanks for this! I love seeing fellow women that are handy, especially when I can learn from them. Thanks for taking the time to make this!
Read the comments on the use of the drill and the file. You will learn how to use these tools properly.
WOW !!! I am really proud of this young Lady. God Bless you
Might be late to the party here, but when drilling, in addition to what I seen someone else say, position the bar in the vise so that the drilling location is closer to the vise and more secure and start by using a smaller bit first.
Now I'll tell you what took me many, many, many drill bits, time and immense frustration to learn. When drilling steel, especially hardened steel:
#1 Use a harder material drill bit than the steel. Like cobalt.
#2 Slower is better. Like a lot better. Speed creates a lot of friction, which creates a lot of heat. Slower speeds allow the drill bit to "bite" into the metal much better. Which takes us to,
#3 Use pressure by pushing down on the drill to make the bit bite even more into the metal.
#4 Use some kind of lubricant on the bit/hole to cool the bit down while drilling. They make drilling oil for that or you can use some other oil or WD40. Could probably even use water, but I never have.
I learned all these the hard way. Like I learn everything. I must have destroyed 20-30 drill bits trying to drill one freaking hole in a piece of angle iron one time. Then I did lots of research. And that's what I learned.
Use a harder material than what your drilling, go slow, press harder and use something to cool and lubricate the bit and the metal. I guess just that sentence could have replaced the whole comment, but I guess I like to hear myself talk... er, uh, type.
could watch her all day :) but yes needs to learn about centre punching and starting with a small drill bit for accurracy - but go girl!
nice! I wonder if putting some rubber vacuum caps at the end of the bolts would help keep slight scratching off the rim's surface.
jewllake Great idea! Will have to try that. I think I have some vacuum caps in my tool box.
High five bro. Our minds think alike. Mmmm, it's like I'm not the only one left on the planet. This girl rocks!
+jewllake indeed a must i thought same thing
+jewllake Would the resilientce of a rubber cap give a false reading? PVC threaded rod would work, or lightly Plastidip the bolt ends.
+jewllake one might use plastic bolts
Total package,Beautiful,Smart and not affraid to get dirty.Am looking forward to more informative videos.
Why would anyone give you a negative. You did a great job. This video is for making a tool, not aligning the vehicle
Good Video to show you don't need a 400$ store system to do what you did for 30$ Some Advice & warnings
Your drill holes. I built one from Aluminum, drill one fixed hole at the bottom and then drill multiple holes right next to each other at the top, then use your grinder, a hack saw or a file to make the holes into a slot. That way you get a perfect fit and it will work on different tires! You can use aluminum, cheaper and lighter and wont rust, just epoxy a magnet or two to the side! Also use a piece from the same angle to make a horizontal piece. I made the horizontal bar and put slots at the end so I can adjust for different rims, plus the ability to get hard friction fit, which you cant get with the way you drilled holes. Use a punch to start the hole, I saw wobble when you drilled, this gives accurate holes.
Danger Will Robinson ! Don't ever stand to the side of a grinder as you did, the blade was completely facing your Face, if it breaks or chips your in for brain surgery, really its a very dangerous thing, stand in back of the guard. Do not use the grinder to cut from underneath the bar, its always on top, theres to much wrong and again dangerous to that to mention.
Great job, I cant believe they sell these things for 200-400$ on Amazon. Oh one more thing, youll need to turn your tires to do camber caster alignment, rather than the 100-200$ tire turning pods on amazon, just put 2 pcs of cardboard under your tire with grease inbetween them, turns like a 200$ overpriced pod
When filing only go forward, files aren't made to go back and forth, quick tip
ha ha , I did that at my carpentry class and got yell at by the teacher :-(
It depends on the file most are one direction and they’re are some made to go back and forth
Double cut man.
body files go both ways... but not this one.
the forward stroke of a file cuts and the back stroke cleans the filings from the file.
Thanks helpful .i was able to align my chamber evenly before my husband return from work he was surprised i aligned it perfectly. Hehe! Thanks great video you were straight to the point.i didn't lose interest.
When you're drilling holes, _especially_ drilling into metals, center punches are your friend. I usually start with a 1/8" bit, and then work up, at least when I'm not using the drill press.
Use center punch and step bit
Hi,
Nice diy with some comments I think you may consider to use:
you can use 2 nuts on each bolt- like a sandwich: nut-angle_bar-nut- you turn the bolt until you have desired height and tide it with the other nut on the back. Another way is to cut the thread in the holes of angle-bar and use nut to lock it in place. Also using cheap carpenter level instead of fancy tool is also an option. I'm using camber tool with magnet and bubble (~$35 on e-bay). For drilling you better use slow speed with cutting oil- you will save the drill bit. Good drill bits are expensive! Use of drill press helps a lot. Also knock a notch on the metal with center punch before you start drilling. Another way to make it simple- use aluminum angle bar and glue piece of metal in the center with epoxy glue to have camber magnet gauge stick to it. Good luck!
DigiPas DWL80E level with angle gauge. Currently about $26 shipped with Amazon Prime. Magnet, horizontal and vertical bubble levels, and digital angle gauge.
I like your idea of using epoxy to attach a piece of steel to a piece of aluminum angle. I would like to put together an adjustable bar, and I'm not crazy about the idea of trying to cut a slot in steel angle.
She's amazing! She doesn't seem old enough to have all that knowledge. I'm beyond impressed. I'm in love. She's a Unicorn!
Same
I am very impressed. I've watched a few of your videos for some of the DIY projects I've done on my Mazda 3, and you have been very helpful each time. Keep up the good work. :)
A good and simple old school solution for checking and adjusting
front-end camber, just the way a DIY tool should be. It’s the same basic
principle I used when I designed my homemade toe and caster tools. And, no it’s not as accurate as using a professional laser aligner, but with the ridiculously high prices shops are charging now days, it’s good enough.
I'm also glad to see someone else sees the value in using
Harbor freight tools, buying a Harbor Freight electric cutoff tool like the one being used in this video turned out to be one of the best tool purchases I ever made, an air cutoff tools can’t even come close to matching it’s cutting performance. Good job girl…
Despite improper shop safety, inadequate tools, etc., she's got her head on. A steel plate c/be riveted to an ALUMINUM angle and slots instead of holes would make it a more versatile tool. Necessity IS the mother of invention!
Brilliant idea! I found an old steel corner piece from one of those grey shelving units (conveniently has holes already drilled). Have calipers to measure protrusion of each bolt from face of angle iron. Ordered an angle gauge. Recommend a piece of electrical tape on top & bottom of wheel to prevent bolts scratching. Can now confidently set camber on my FJ Cruiser that I put all new lifted suspension on. Thank you!
This is the most pretty alignment video on TH-cam
Good effort. Like the cal check. I would be proud of that. You did get close to your paint work... eek!
Where do they make women like this? I want one.
Haha more power to them. I know a lot of women who are great with tools and on crews. Anybody can do whatever they set their minds to.
Thank you, I am the main crew person for my husbands race car and the go to person when the car needs any mechanical work. (he only had one dnf last year because he developed a vacuum leak during the race) The looks I get in the pits, well we won't go there, there needs to be more people with open minds who realize gender don't mean anything. Once again thanks for your support.
tell that to women, so Its not such a rarity to find one who can build a small block.
Edit: I love how some people can manage to thumbs down this comment.
Al Licks- Good luck finding one. They do exist but are as easy to find as fairies and gold at the end of the rainbow. All of the women I have met are all about the cash. The more cash you have, the more you see them. The less cash you have, well you know the rest.
They're usually made in their parent beds
Nice to watch a Smart pretty young woman with tools , You did a Great job... Thank you..
Thank you! Just the idea I needed! Good job on the tool and the video.
The one measurement that I did not see done was the one to CENTER the bar between the floor and the top of the wheel well. If you had done that, it would not have extended above the wheel well when you used it. And if you measured so that is was NOT LONGER than that length (floor to top of wheel well) then you should have made it so that it was CENTERED......so all you need to do is go back, remeasure, this time CENTERED, and cut the new holes...and it will be perfect. Apart from that this was PER-FECT! Thanks so much, will be making mine soon.
Everyone is blinded by her beauty and not thinking that her alignment can be a little off, since she didn't check if the floor of her garage is PERFECTLY horizontal! Most garages are not PERFECTLY horizontal, because if you wash it, the water needs to go toward the drain or toward the door, so the water can go outside. If the floor is leveled 2 degrees off horizontal, then in order to keep the 90° tire contact with the ground, you need to set your camber alignment 2 degrees off 90° vertical, too! Simple geometry!
Agreed. Also, would not holding the bar completely vertical effect the camber reading? I would think that it changes if the bar is not exactly 12/6 o'clock, or am I mistaken?
So you park sideways in your garage?? 😂
@Vince Panov:
The entire garage does NOT need to be perfectly level... It NEVER will be. The only thing that matters is the portion between the passenger side and drivers side. Even if you are on an incline driveway, that does not matter as long as the pass to drivers side is LEVEL... We are not checking camber between the front or back, only pass tire to drivers tire .. So ONLY that side needs to be level as much as possible ...
And another, NO garage floor is a perfect level ... it may be off by a degree or two and if it is, you take that into consideration when testing
@Eganwp:
Incline or decline garage floor has NO affect on camber readings... What matters is that the floor between the passenger side and drivers side are level ...
Great job in demonstrating the principle. It doesn't matter if some techniques for, say, cutting, could be improved. If one is ambitious enough to DIY this, they'll figure out the best ways to cut, drill, etc. good job here.
No they might not figure out 'better' ways - they will do it like the video and think it is correct. The correct ways are listed in many peoples comments. Hopefully she will take them under advisement and implement them in her future endeavors.
i adjusted the camber on my wheels. slid sideways into a 5inch curb
Hdawg Geezy hahah!!
That's how ya do it
Yup. That's one of the easy ways. 😁
awsome and great job on explaining so clearly, i will watch the next video on castor
Wow amazing Info building vlog here . My sis K does these thing too. Keep doing u happy new year 2022. Great idea
Nice video! I will build one with the additional94eg! improvements.
Wow girl in action. Love your video. I didnt know it's 7 years old video.
RESPECT only for efforts !!!
I just gave her a thumbs up for her looks
this is conveniently resourceful
I like the way measured you angle iron to fit inside the wheel arch then used it upside down easy done I've done it loads of times
Yeh that video was so cool, well done keep up the good work.
Thanks for the help, your teaching and instructions are very helpful.
Good job, natural beauty!!!
Pimpin your girl out!!! Nice Would love to see more video's of her grinding
I love to see women doing what could be termed engineering work. I feel we're finally shedding the old mentality, or mantality if you like. Great job, and informative
1:52 never cut steel from bottom like that... the heavy steel could clamp the disc and break it and cause flying pieces all over the place.
The old plumb vs level mix up lol great video
Lol i just used the tire it self as this tool. I picked up a 06 chevy z71 that had bad spots on the inside of my tires.so I just gave the bolts that hold the torsion bars a couple turns and it not only fixed it but it leveled the truck a bit.i did go to far at 1st that was not good and what I did is not really a good fix but it will due lol. This is a nice little tool you made though and I will be making one to use with all my cars.
Beautiful and smart 😍😍😍
and also, it's a great way to scratch your rims!
I use it all the time, no scratches. Just be mindful.
Plasti-dip the bolts, if it really bothers you.
TheSuburban15
000000000
buy plastic bolts..
Those skinny lil arms are freaking adorable AND she can fix your car with ya... Heaven! lol
Don't need to get an angle cube if your cellphone has angle finder. My Chinese Doogee phone also has accurate direction measuring so toe in and caster can be measured. For toe simply figure the difference in degrees needed. For caster adjustment turn the wheels the required angle and measure for the required change in vertical angle. Of course adjust the camber as in this video first and figure true vertical or difference from camber depending how you secs are listed.. For your turning plate you can use greased cutting boards from a Dollar store or greased steel plates. Of course check if your suspension parts are good and tight and if applicable tighten up steering box first.
The other way to do this is watch for ads for alignment specials and take your vehicle to this place. The point of the shops giving low alignment prices is to get your vehicle in to do suspension work. If they tell you you need to replace certain parts either take your car home and check or take your car to another shop to have those parts checked. I have seen cases where brand new parts have been claimed to be needing replaced by some of these alignment shops. Of course replace any needed parts and have the alignment adjusted after. Most alignment deals are pay for the alignment and either have them do the suspension repair or you can bring the car back to get the alignment job finished after you get the parts replaced. The mechanics are paid on a commission on repairs often with quotas so this is the reason for the prevalence of unneeded repair recommendations. Yeah, one reason to do it yourself.
Home built tool are always fun
Awesome video!!
I know you probably bought that Chicago Electric 3"(Harbor Freight) cut-off for this video...But that thing kicks butt...it'll handle just about anything you grab it for...nice video! I actually need to do this...my Saturn Sky is a little off since dropping it (1.3")...I'm looking forward to your alignment video...
Craig Cundiff Yup that's the one. I think I paid ~$20 for it and it's never let me down. It even came with a spares set of brushes. We're going to try and put a lot of time and research into our alignment video. We're even going to take the car to an alignment shop after we're done to have our worked checked. Stay tuned!
Sounds good.Looking forward to it....$20!? It's Chicago Electric Platinum though...whatever that is...LOL
Good video, a few safety concerns, but there are a couple things I'd like to add.
I have never found a perfectly level surface, other than shops, and it never mattered much because it was to check fluids and the slight slants didn't affect it enough to hurt. A simpler, and cheaper, way to accomplish this would be:
1. Measure the diameter of the rim. To do this properly take your measuring device, preferably string, pin one end to the outermost point of the rim and take the other end, running it along the opposite outside edge of the rim until you get the longest point on the string and measure it, this will be your true diameter rather than being too far to the left or right, resulting in different measurements.
2. Find a bar or even a straight block of wood and position bolts, or pins of some kind of equal length, to the measurement of your rim. (Note: there must be enough overhang to touch the ground and both outer points of the rim)
3. Take an angle square and position it with the ground and bar and keep taking mesurements until you have a perfect 45° angle. This will work regardless of how level the place is, as long as the ground itself is a flat surface. If you really want to make sure you're at 45° you can extend the square with anything straight, such as a ruler or bar. This tool will only work with a perfectly level environment. To put it into perspective, think about it as if you were to do this on a (flat) surface that was on a steep hill. The car would be slanted according to gravity and the surface, but the tires would be straight up and down according to gravity.
Say you do have a perfectly level surface. Build your bar and bolt setup in the same manner (it won't matter if the board reaches the ground so long as the bolts make contact with the outside of the rim). Take, or make, an L bracket (L=45°) and position one flat edge vertically on the bar. Next take a protractor and secure a string perfectly in the center point, and tie a nut, or some weighty object to keep the string taught, to the other end of the string. The string must be long enough to reach past the 45° mark. Now hold the flat edge of the protractor flush with the underside of the horizontal leg of the L bracket. Continue this until the string is at 45° perfectly.
Hi ! YES, good tool but what's about the parallelism ? Well, where can I buy the electronic part, please ?
Very informative, thanks a lot
Great idea for a tool. Can this be used to measure toe in/out with using a pen laser attached to the L bracket?
personally i would go about achieving the desired results in a slightly different manner. First i would use a side grinder to cut the metal angle iron then sand the burs off with it (cuts quicker and sands quicker) If you really are worried about the burs or edges grab your dremel tool with a sanding drum in place and hit the edges with it. Next i would use a drill bit with the correct size but i would choose a bit with a "speed point" tip on it this style tip eliminates the need for a punch and is very effective, with it's anti-walk engineering built in. Next instead of filing all day on the bolt ends i would again use my dremel tool with sanding drum attached and sand away quickly any material that needed removing from the excess length of the bolt(s). Finally i would never assume any surface is plumb and would first verify plumb by using at least a 4' bubble level. I think she also uses the term level when she really means plumb. And i also plan on making the bolt holes with a slot instead of just a single unmovable hole this way i can accommodate multiple rim sizes!
Well done, cool video, I am going to build that tool for myself. Cutting steel like that is easier by using a regular good quality hand saw plus less noise.
Absolutely brilliant !! 😀
good stuff. if you center punch the exact point you want to drill, the drill bit won't jump around so much.
When using this make sure the concrete floor or driveway is level or you will be off .
My driveway has a slight slope to it so I had to figure out the difference.
Actually a pretty useful tool and video, thanks .
Husband & Wife Team?? OUTSTANDING! Thank You for posting this very helpful video!
Awesome vid! But, here's a little tip. Maybe add some plastic or rubber tips to the ends of the bolts to avoid scratches.
To get a more accurate starting position when beginning to drill, use a drill about a quarter size of what is required on a low speed setting until it makes a slight divet in metal. Then step it up to half the size required on high speed, then 3/4, then full size, slowly making the divet larger along the way. Additionally, I would adjust the beam in the vice so that the mark for drilling is within 2 inches from the vice to avoid twisting while applying downward pressure while drilling, just in case...
I really like your videos , complete and efficient .
Thank you
OMG beautiful and smart 😍
OMGosh!!!!!!!!!!!! I’m in Love 😍 you have the best day ever
Ew
Make sure to use all your PPE. Safety glasses AND hearing protection. Nice video.
girls that work with tools and like car stuff are a unicorn
Saws - all FTW! I try to stay away from grinder/cutter wheels.
What do you suggest we use to prevent the bolts from scratching the wheels?
Just put some electrical tape over the end.
A vacuum cap over the ends would work well.
I bought a camber/caster level off of wish for around $10. Remove wheels and set hub assembly down on blocks with 2 or 3 pieces of cardboard in between them.stick it to the top of the rotor (magnetic) and Get to work. Have to level it out on something level first, but it's pretty accurate.. I put my truck on blocks for the air ride suspension.had to keep adjusting the pressure in the air bags with the wheels off
you looked frightened of the angle grinder .. good presentation and informative video .
Thank you great video I like thumbs up! You are delightful DIY presenter.
Nice tool. Just two suggestions:
The tool you refer to as an "angle grinder" is actually a straight grinder. In an angle grinder, the wheel's axis of rotation is perpendicular to that of the straight grinder.
As many other commenters have said, you should center punch the hole locations prior to drilling. It will improve the accuracy of your hole placement a lot.
This girl r beautiful and smart doing mechanic works..
This is so cool..Thanks!
Nice work. Did you powder coat your wheels?
You have great videos. One lesson (you will carry this through life). Before you drill ANY hole in metal, use an autopunch (cost just a few dollars). Press, click , POP...it makes a divot easy squeezy so when you go to drill, the drill bit doesn't walk all over the place. One time and you will never ever drill a hole in metal again without it (yes, I learned after a LONG time myself..lol)
Somebody needs a center punch.
And some new drill bits.
Harbor Freight bro lol
Jordan Hillard somebody had to get her husband to start both holes for her...
Yeah like no machining oil . Maybe it is more expensive now than the bits ? You know the bits come from China but the Oil comes from the Cartel..
@@stix562 The US is the top oil producer these days. Has been for awhile.
You were using a cut-off or grinding tool, that would depend on what type of wheel you mounted on it. I prefer the 90 degree die grinder. It has interchangeable arbors for cutting wheels, burrs, even drill bits. MUCH better control and much easier to use, and therefore MUCH safer! (and MUCH more versatile! )
Just another comment dear, when using a file, only file in ONE direction! when you 'scrub' the file back and forth, it will flatten the cutting edges of the file and then it becomes worthless. Also I would recommend de-burring the drill bit holes (both sides) before inserting the bolts (you could use the same die grinder with the wheel already in it! :D ). This would ensure the bolt heads and shoulders are laying FLAT on he angle bar.
When you took it to check the alignment were you close to manufacturers specs? I was interested in buying the name brand gauge but for almost 300$ it makes sense to pay for the alignment. Your solution changes that significantly.
+nicholas kin It was spot on with factory specs. I change my setup a lot so being able to do an alignment myself is a big money saver.
+everythingdiy that's awesome, I'm so excited u just saved me a ton of money. Thanks!
Smart n beauty in one place good to see .GOD blessed u with beautiful eyes
If your just replacing a strut measure from inside of the wheel rotor to somewhere in the fender liner before and set to that after. Nice tool there for finding the correct angle but it could be difficult to access the camber bolt with the wheel on, it would be slightly less accurate but smaller if you made this tool for the brake rotor. I do like the idea of using the angle finder.
A couple of tips: You need to clamp the spot that you're going to drill, cut or grind much closer to the vise so the piece does not shake and create a unsafe situation. When drilling holes don't just start with your final drill or else the bit will dance unsafely (like in this video) and potentially skate off or drill into the wrong spot. Instead stop the spot with a sharp center punch first so the drill bit will bite into that divot and not dance around dangerously or you can drill a pilot hole with a tiny drill bit (they will bite and drill through without dancing, try it) then go to the final drill bit to make the hole.
Pretty good video. Not perfect, but well done. Good job Miss
that was terrifying, watching that cut with the cutoff tool.
yes it was.. O_o
She was definitely an inappropriate position.
good one .I have a digital split level .you don't mind I use your idee to modify it .thanks. goedendag
Porta band saw, sawzall or hack saw would cut that much quicker, but you are looking good!
Sure there are a few not-so-good techniques and terms used here but she's trying which is a big positive. My gal loves learning how to use tools, has become decent at it too. She's up to changing her own oil as long as I watch but each time she does it she needs me less and less.
thanks! nice and soft guide.....i like that
Thanks so much for this video. I plan to make one of these tools, but will look through the cabinet and furniture hardware section to find nylon or rubber bump stops with studs to use instead of bolts so that I don't scratch my rim surface...... Barstool feet may be the answer.
Also note that holes can be drilled so that one tool fits multiple rim sizes.
I think studded barstool feet or bumpstops with equal length sleeves and wing nuts would make a very versatile tool.
I did this. It worked for me. Thanks
When I am born again ... I want to be born a tool and have the luck of a drill ;)
Really nice video and I can't wait for the alignment because I have a 2008 mazdaspeed3 and it turns to the right when the steering wheel is straight. I took it to my local mazda dealership and they said it would cost me over $200 idk why. But I looking for a way without the alignment machine but anyway nice work u guys need way more subs
Did you try going to a local shop other than the dealer, I got an aligment on my.mazda 3 for 50 bucks. Without the discount ots like 65 to 70
+spoon games I love DIY stuff, but to me the hassle of alignment isn't worth it. I got a lifetime alignment deal on mine and it already paid for itself.
I would rather work on something else that is more costly or somewhere where professional mechanics can you hard on the bill (engine or transmission).
Where can find this type of power grinder?
Pretty slick! Thanks for posting!