It does work ,I've been doing it like that for years.something I do and you may want to as well,I take a fleshing knife and flesh the inner side ,after you cut it in 2 inch strips .Mike you'll feel some of them and they'll be really gooey on the inside,the outside will have dimples from the hair follicles,90 percent of those huge bones are pig skin , excellent stuff , I researched it for several months before I actually used them.they also work well for seats inside of cedar canoe's,cut into 1 inch wide strips and woven over the wooden seat frames and let dry .i built several strip canoe's and used them. They also work well for inside the bottom in leather back quivers,just cut them to size and put them in wet and let them dry . once you use them you'll find endless uses for them,if your a little crafty like you and I are.. Frankie Rapp >>>>----------->
I used this to cover the rim of my viking shield. Be advised: after you wet and unroll it, stretch it out, as much as you can, both length-wise and width-wise, and attach it to a board by using a LOT of nails all around the edges. Rawhide SHRINKS as it dries, which means you'll get a fairly flat piece The pieces I got were about eight inches wide, from side to side. Some around the edges may not be usable, but you SHOULD get about six inches of usable width material. BTW, Petsmart also carries these bones
YES! IMPORTANT TIP HERE GUYS!!! MAKE SURE TO SOAK THE RAWHIDE IN COLD WATER TO LOOSEN IT UP AS HOT WATER WILL TURN IT TO HIDE GLUE! Great call on that one nasr313! Thank you very much!
Boarriar Bows....JUST WARM WATER.....WORKS I WOULD THINK THAT BOILING WATER WOULD TURN IT TO GLUE....THE INDIANS ALWAYS REPAIRED THEIR GUNSTOCKS WITH RAWHIDE.....
Yes. In fact tillering after applying the rawhide is a MUST even if you had it tillered beforehand as you never know what the backing will do. usually it will not change the tiller, but it is always safe to check again. My feeling is put the backing on beforehand as it will protect the back of the bow through the tillering process.
So does it work or no? I have seen a lot of guys on PA using the dog treat "tendons" and break them into sinew (despite the peanut butter/dog food smell), but not the rawhide.
Check out the last video in the Pick axe handle takedown build along. I ruined the bow so I tested the rawhide and I think it passed with flying colors. It is thick and can rob a couple/few fps, but the protection it gives is great.
In the traded strips, yes. In the dog chew...I don't know, but it is definitely thick "enough" to do what I am asking of it, which it adding durability to the bow back. Generally, rawhide won't increase draw weight like sinew can, so I don't think it will matter. Especially if I tiller the bow after applying the rawhide. Great question! Thanks! - Mike
Pine may just be TOO bad a wood LOL. The thing about bubinga is that it has great compression strength, but little elastic strength. Rawhide will add to that elastic strength, which in turn might make for a great bow. Without the backing bubinga is useless as a bow wood.
@@HistoricalWeapons its interesting as it works great but makes a cracking sound when you first bend the bow. after warming the bow up the sounds goes away. I prefer to use a Knox glue/ fish bladder for hide glue if I'm going full primitive
They really do! Excellent products and HIGH quality service. Might be the BEST primitive archery pro shop in the country. However, their rawhide is $25.00 for enough to back 1 bow. The dog bone was $14.99 and has enough rawhide to back around 4 bows. There is definitely more work involved with the dog bone, but yields a lot more material.
I tried to flatten the bone-strip out, but I don't have the work space to do a great job of it. I managed to make a reasonably flat and straight piece, and glued it to a sanded PVC bow - it'll be interesting to see if the glue takes, or if I'll have to do it with epoxy... Thanks for the tutorial!
No, sorry. I basically have used trial and error, but here is my opinion and personal findings: Lakota-style: Most consistently the best of all worlds performance wise. You name it, this style is pretty darn good if not great in speed, draw smoothness, lack of stacking, and accuracy. Mollegabet: Not the fastest, but the heavier the arrow gets the better it performs. Eventually it will cast a heavier arrow faster than its longbow/flatbow counterparts, but this is a pretty heavy arrow.
Patchyman is right on with everything in his comment. I used to LOVE the tape and or cloth, but have moved away from it in favor of sinew and/or rawhide for exactly the reasons Patchy mentioned.
I'd wondered about that. I got my rawhide on, but a possible problem... one strip of rawhide is alot thicker than the other. Can I get away with that? If not, can I sand the rawhide to keep the limb thickness even?
Diffrence is that the dog bone streaches back when drying and the ones you order are specialized for bow making there for are more sold.and better .but i have tried the dog bone thing
And it's a good ingredient on it's own. It adds a good beefy flavor to stock, and if cooked properly, is a very tender addition. Very very good in Pho (vietnamese noodle soup)
Hey Mike, I picked up one of those braided rings for about $ 10.oo and there's 3 pieces of rawhide around 3x36. Kinda on the thin side but it looks easy to work with. Time will tell... I'm still working on the Redwood longbow from Home Depot so it'll be a while. I'll let you know how it turns out, thanks again for all the videos they help a lot.
I've used fiberglass tape on numerous bows. While it DOES work excellently as a backing, so long as you put on multiple layers, it doesn't replicate sinew in any way. As sinew dries, it shrinks and pulls the bow limbs into a deeper reflex. Fiberglass tape doesn't, though it is pretty cheap and easy to apply, much more so than sinew.
Miike, Enjoy the vids very much, keep up the good work. Question, I'm building a longbow to use as my primary hunter next season, using rawhide I harvested off my best bud's buck from last season, What's the best way to weatherproof this? Something like Thompsons waterseal, Paint, or urethane sealant? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks you for your channel.
Making my first bow this week and thank you soo much for this idea, i havnt been able to fins any rawhide or sinew where i live and glassfiber looks so ugly! Thanx again for the idea!
i have used a rawhide dog bone before to make the backing and the glue only problem is the thickness varries lot in the dog bone i used so not sure if i would use it again thats the prob with cow hide and i dont wanna spend all that time trying to sand it down
+clidelivingston I'm not sure I understand. What was originally glued down with tight bond 3 that you need to cover it with epoxy before the backing strip?
+clidelivingston Anyway, generally speaking due to Tight bond 3 being "waterproof" other glues tend not to stick to it as well once it has cured. I have used Hide glue over TB3 and it worked but haven't tried epoxy.
Hi there, Will you have a video coming out with the dog bone rawhide chew backing anytime soon? Thanks for some really great stuff I like everything you do!!! :-)
I got myself a dogbone but it's not white, it's kind of see through. Pet store's homepage tells me the white is boiled, do I need to boil it for it to work as well as the white?
If you can see through it my guess is that it is pretty thin. Not sure about the boiling, but I think it may be a bad idea if it is very thin... not sure though, I haven't really run into that problem, so I am only guessing here.
No sir, it's not thin, well some strips they filled the dog bone with are, it's just kind of tan or brownish and I can see light coming through, not so much when it's dry though. I'll just boil a piece and see what happens.
Hi Mike, great idea, thanks! In a long/flat bow the limbs are long, the strips not much, so, can I mend the rawhide strips? How do I do this, I overlap the strip edges or not? Thanks
I have seen bowyers overlap the rawhide and then wrap the overlaps with serving string or sinew. I have not tried it myself, but the bows that I have seen this done on have worked (of course no one shows off the ones that my have broken).
Thank you very much for your reply! In my country the raw bone have only 9 "or 10" ... I will have overlap rawhide to get covered every limb. As the wood fibers / grain are vertical I intend to cut the rawhide diagonally so maybe I avoid a horizontal break .... I will try, the maximum that can happen is to break, lol
Thanks for replying so quickly. I wasnt very clear. What i meant to say is, do you have a video debating the pros and cons of each design, english LB, maganet, lacota. What do they look like, what are the key characteristics etc. Maybe you know a site where it explains it in detail. If possible, i'd like to know every single different bow design and how to build them. I'll be 70 before i'm done though, ha!
Hey mike I'm finding it really difficult to get this stuff to get on the back of my Bow could you give me some help or maybe a video showing how to do it?
Yes u can boil it for 6 hours on medium heat on the stove then the water u filter throuh a strainer then let the liquid cool till a jello state then reheat then u have pretty strong hide glue
Did you thin this rawhide down? Or did you just keep it as thick as it came? I read somewhere of people thinning the hide down, I was wondering if you ever experimented with any of that.
charlie dunn I would too. Unfortunately one of the limbs broke during tillering. I'm going to try to rework it as a slightly smaller takedown. Will let you know if it works out.
I saw a giant dogbone in Dollar General awhile back and thought about using it for the rawhide, but I read the label and it actually wasn't made of rawhide. Forgot what it was, but not rawhide. I also saw some dog treats that were simply rolled up strips of rawhide and the label actually said rawhide. Not sure how long they would be unrolled. They were made in China. If rawhide is from China, there's no telling what kind of animal it's from. Maybe panda bears.
BoarriorBows . But if you made it panda colored, it might get confused with Holstein cow. I checked again at Dollar General and the giant dog bones are actually pigskin plus they cost $8.50. The pkg. says "contains no rawhide".
+116PANZERLIED 3 rivers archery.com($27.99), pinehollowlongbows.com ($27.00) or you can just go to Tandy leather, buy some goat rawhide and cut your own strips (approx.$28.00 for the rawhide and makes about 12 strips)
Mike I've been doing this very thing for years and it works great!the good thing is it's long enough for horse bows in one shot..it also works great for 58 inch recurves that I make.lookbmenup on Facebook "primitive bows and arrows" my name is Frankie Rapp..I'm in shawnee country, southern Ohio...
Hey man, you mentioned in a few videos, different types of bows such as malgavet and lacota? I'm sure there are many more also. I've reserched different bow designs but its really hard to find. I've finally managed to get my hands on some yew so now i just need to decide what shape the bow will take, thanks man
It does work ,I've been doing it like that for years.something I do and you may want to as well,I take a fleshing knife and flesh the inner side ,after you cut it in 2 inch strips .Mike you'll feel some of them and they'll be really gooey on the inside,the outside will have dimples from the hair follicles,90 percent of those huge bones are pig skin , excellent stuff , I researched it for several months before I actually used them.they also work well for seats inside of cedar canoe's,cut into 1 inch wide strips and woven over the wooden seat frames and let dry .i built several strip canoe's and used them. They also work well for inside the bottom in leather back quivers,just cut them to size and put them in wet and let them dry . once you use them you'll find endless uses for them,if your a little crafty like you and I are..
Frankie Rapp
>>>>----------->
I used this to cover the rim of my viking shield. Be advised: after you wet and unroll it, stretch it out, as much as you can, both length-wise and width-wise, and attach it to a board by using a LOT of nails all around the edges. Rawhide SHRINKS as it dries, which means you'll get a fairly flat piece The pieces I got were about eight inches wide, from side to side. Some around the edges may not be usable, but you SHOULD get about six inches of usable width material.
BTW, Petsmart also carries these bones
YES! IMPORTANT TIP HERE GUYS!!! MAKE SURE TO SOAK THE RAWHIDE IN COLD WATER TO LOOSEN IT UP AS HOT WATER WILL TURN IT TO HIDE GLUE!
Great call on that one nasr313! Thank you very much!
Boarriar Bows....JUST WARM WATER.....WORKS
I WOULD THINK THAT BOILING WATER WOULD TURN IT TO GLUE....THE INDIANS ALWAYS REPAIRED THEIR GUNSTOCKS WITH RAWHIDE.....
Yes. In fact tillering after applying the rawhide is a MUST even if you had it tillered beforehand as you never know what the backing will do. usually it will not change the tiller, but it is always safe to check again. My feeling is put the backing on beforehand as it will protect the back of the bow through the tillering process.
So does it work or no? I have seen a lot of guys on PA using the dog treat "tendons" and break them into sinew (despite the peanut butter/dog food smell), but not the rawhide.
Check out the last video in the Pick axe handle takedown build along. I ruined the bow so I tested the rawhide and I think it passed with flying colors. It is thick and can rob a couple/few fps, but the protection it gives is great.
BoarriorBows . Did you never make the video of you shooting it? I was kind of looking forward to seeing the bow that came out of it.
In the traded strips, yes. In the dog chew...I don't know, but it is definitely thick "enough" to do what I am asking of it, which it adding durability to the bow back. Generally, rawhide won't increase draw weight like sinew can, so I don't think it will matter. Especially if I tiller the bow after applying the rawhide. Great question! Thanks! - Mike
Pine may just be TOO bad a wood LOL. The thing about bubinga is that it has great compression strength, but little elastic strength. Rawhide will add to that elastic strength, which in turn might make for a great bow. Without the backing bubinga is useless as a bow wood.
My pleasure! Good luck on your bow!
I have heard that it does work. Mostly leg tendon from cows and it is a little shorter than deer, but still does the job.
have you tried wood glue for this? or titebond3 only
Well, TB3 is wood glue. Did you mean hide glue?
@@BoarriorBows yes their titebond hide glue. is it better than old school hide pellets?
@@BoarriorBows im actually planing to back deer sinew with their titebond hide glue
@@HistoricalWeapons its interesting as it works great but makes a cracking sound when you first bend the bow. after warming the bow up the sounds goes away. I prefer to use a Knox glue/ fish bladder for hide glue if I'm going full primitive
@@BoarriorBows whats knox is that a american brand? where to buy?
They really do! Excellent products and HIGH quality service. Might be the BEST primitive archery pro shop in the country. However, their rawhide is $25.00 for enough to back 1 bow. The dog bone was $14.99 and has enough rawhide to back around 4 bows. There is definitely more work involved with the dog bone, but yields a lot more material.
I tried to flatten the bone-strip out, but I don't have the work space to do a great job of it. I managed to make a reasonably flat and straight piece, and glued it to a sanded PVC bow - it'll be interesting to see if the glue takes, or if I'll have to do it with epoxy...
Thanks for the tutorial!
No, sorry. I basically have used trial and error, but here is my opinion and personal findings:
Lakota-style: Most consistently the best of all worlds performance wise. You name it, this style is pretty darn good if not great in speed, draw smoothness, lack of stacking, and accuracy.
Mollegabet: Not the fastest, but the heavier the arrow gets the better it performs. Eventually it will cast a heavier arrow faster than its longbow/flatbow counterparts, but this is a pretty heavy arrow.
Patchyman is right on with everything in his comment. I used to LOVE the tape and or cloth, but have moved away from it in favor of sinew and/or rawhide for exactly the reasons Patchy mentioned.
Check out the $99 longbow. I forgot to mention the rawhide is from the dog bone.
You can sand it or work it out in the tiller. Either way works.
I'd wondered about that. I got my rawhide on, but a possible problem... one strip of rawhide is alot thicker than the other. Can I get away with that? If not, can I sand the rawhide to keep the limb thickness even?
Haven't tried it myself, but some people have reported to me that they used several small strips with success.
Thanks again. I'm so stoked about this bow I can barely wait for the rawhide to dry. But I will!
Diffrence is that the dog bone streaches back when drying and the ones you order are specialized for bow making there for are more sold.and better .but i have tried the dog bone thing
Working on a red oak pyramid bow right now. Since my red oak longbow blew up this might be a great option for the pyramid bow.
I believe it is used to thicken soups and sauces.
And it's a good ingredient on it's own. It adds a good beefy flavor to stock, and if cooked properly, is a very tender addition. Very very good in Pho (vietnamese noodle soup)
can it be skived or thinned?
Hey Mike, I picked up one of those braided rings for about $ 10.oo and there's 3 pieces of rawhide around 3x36. Kinda on the thin side but it looks easy to work with. Time will tell... I'm still working on the Redwood longbow from Home Depot so it'll be a while. I'll let you know how it turns out, thanks again for all the videos they help a lot.
Cool!! Yes, please let me know how it turns out :)
Check out the video I posted called:
"How to make a Take Down Sledge Handle Bow, Part 3"
I apply the rawhide here.
I've used fiberglass tape on numerous bows. While it DOES work excellently as a backing, so long as you put on multiple layers, it doesn't replicate sinew in any way. As sinew dries, it shrinks and pulls the bow limbs into a deeper reflex. Fiberglass tape doesn't, though it is pretty cheap and easy to apply, much more so than sinew.
the raw hie we get is very thick and cant be stretched and a couple of bits all to gether would just about cover a standard bow 56 inches
Can it be done in strips like sinew or does it have to be one long strip?
Miike, Enjoy the vids very much, keep up the good work. Question, I'm building a longbow to use as my primary hunter next season, using rawhide I harvested off my best bud's buck from last season, What's the best way to weatherproof this? Something like Thompsons waterseal, Paint, or urethane sealant? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks you for your channel.
Interesting! I will check my labels from now on.
Making my first bow this week and thank you soo much for this idea, i havnt been able to fins any rawhide or sinew where i live and glassfiber looks so ugly! Thanx again for the idea!
i have used a rawhide dog bone before to make the backing and the glue only problem is the thickness varries lot in the dog bone i used so not sure if i would use it again thats the prob with cow hide and i dont wanna spend all that time trying to sand it down
14"-16" bone. Petco has them for about $14.99
Ok so when do we get to see this stuff in action? Do you plan on backing something with it soon?
I keep mine between 50-60# and get great performance
Have you ever made a Nez Perce bow from an Osage Orange stave
Me too! Very excited.
Please tell me what size the bone is you bought? Like what lenth was the dog bone when you first bought it?
you can also make hide glue out of that i tried and it works really good
would you recommend using epoxy over tight bond 3 to glue on drywall tape backing or rawhide backing?
+clidelivingston I'm not sure I understand. What was originally glued down with tight bond 3 that you need to cover it with epoxy before the backing strip?
+BoarriorBows sorry bad choice of words, which do you prefer for gluing a backing on the bow epoxy or wood glue?
+clidelivingston Anyway, generally speaking due to Tight bond 3 being "waterproof" other glues tend not to stick to it as well once it has cured. I have used Hide glue over TB3 and it worked but haven't tried epoxy.
I prefer using the TB2 or 3
cool that's what I used.
Future experiment idea - Sinew from dried tendon (sold at Asian markets) I don't know if you can get long enough pieces from it.
I've got my dog bone rawhide and a red oak pyramid bow to put it on (untillered). Can you do the tillering after you back the bow?
Yes
My cherry wood bow cracked, can it be backed? or is it a waste of time?
Hi there, Will you have a video coming out with the dog bone rawhide chew backing anytime soon?
Thanks for some really great stuff I like everything you do!!! :-)
I got myself a dogbone but it's not white, it's kind of see through. Pet store's homepage tells me the white is boiled, do I need to boil it for it to work as well as the white?
If you can see through it my guess is that it is pretty thin. Not sure about the boiling, but I think it may be a bad idea if it is very thin... not sure though, I haven't really run into that problem, so I am only guessing here.
No sir, it's not thin, well some strips they filled the dog bone with are, it's just kind of tan or brownish and I can see light coming through, not so much when it's dry though. I'll just boil a piece and see what happens.
Hi Mike, great idea, thanks! In a long/flat bow the limbs are long, the strips not much, so, can I mend the rawhide strips? How do I do this, I overlap the strip edges or not? Thanks
I have seen bowyers overlap the rawhide and then wrap the overlaps with serving string or sinew. I have not tried it myself, but the bows that I have seen this done on have worked (of course no one shows off the ones that my have broken).
Thank you very much for your reply! In my country the raw bone have only 9 "or 10" ... I will have overlap rawhide to get covered every limb. As the wood fibers / grain are vertical I intend to cut the rawhide diagonally so maybe I avoid a horizontal break .... I will try, the maximum that can happen is to break, lol
Yew almost demands English Longbow... but any style bow will be better with yew.
Thanks for replying so quickly. I wasnt very clear. What i meant to say is, do you have a video debating the pros and cons of each design, english LB, maganet, lacota. What do they look like, what are the key characteristics etc. Maybe you know a site where it explains it in detail. If possible, i'd like to know every single different bow design and how to build them. I'll be 70 before i'm done though, ha!
Really?! Asian markets have sinew? Daggone, I better start looking around, as I go there sometimes.
Can't wait to see if it works!
Lol, Coco is gonna be thrilled! Did you take it down to SD with you for her? I hear M and N want to take her home! See you tomorrow!
hardens when dry
Hey mike I'm finding it really difficult to get this stuff to get on the back of my Bow could you give me some help or maybe a video showing how to do it?
Really appreciate. I was thinking my first bow would be around 60lb, how heavy should the molle be to get the most out of it? 80?
grrrr...every bone I open has a giant hole in it and is not usable..
Yes u can boil it for 6 hours on medium heat on the stove then the water u filter throuh a strainer then let the liquid cool till a jello state then reheat then u have pretty strong hide glue
Did you thin this rawhide down? Or did you just keep it as thick as it came? I read somewhere of people thinning the hide down, I was wondering if you ever experimented with any of that.
Did it work? (If so did you make a video of it?) Also, what type of glue would you recommend? Hide glue of wood glue?
Yes it definitely worked :)
I prefer titebond 2 these days, but hide glue works very well also.
BoarriorBows . Thanks. Will share my results with you when I have completed my project (a huge 80" red oak long bow). Thanks again.
***** I want to see that
charlie dunn I would too. Unfortunately one of the limbs broke during tillering. I'm going to try to rework it as a slightly smaller takedown. Will let you know if it works out.
Damn, im sorry to hear that. Good luck man you got it !
hmmm. interesting does it stay soft and malubale ar does it dry out and get hard
Hi bro can u give the link for the rawhide?
I saw a giant dogbone in Dollar General awhile back and thought about using it for the rawhide, but I read the label and it actually wasn't made of rawhide. Forgot what it was, but not rawhide. I also saw some dog treats that were simply rolled up strips of rawhide and the label actually said rawhide. Not sure how long they would be unrolled. They were made in China. If rawhide is from China, there's no telling what kind of animal it's from. Maybe panda bears.
Interesting. Always worth checking the labels :)
Panda! I wonder if I could charge more for the bow if it was made with panda...
...just kidding
BoarriorBows . But if you made it panda colored, it might get confused with Holstein cow.
I checked again at Dollar General and the giant dog bones are actually pigskin plus they cost $8.50. The pkg. says "contains no rawhide".
Very interesting. Good job on the creativity and thinking in the DIY manner. Hope it works! :)
Appreciate that, Thanks!
I heard someone say fiberglass tape works almost as good as sinews. Does anyone know how true that is?
nice!!! im looking forward to the results.
Why not make hide glue with the scrap?
Jerry Thompson certainly you can.
The bones Are made of cow- hide. It is probably to thick. It will add weigth and slow down the bow. You need thin hide, like deer or goat.
U can glue it after drying then lighlty sand it thinner with very light or smooth sandpaper
where do you even buy rawhide strips online??????
+116PANZERLIED 3 rivers archery.com($27.99), pinehollowlongbows.com ($27.00) or you can just go to Tandy leather, buy some goat rawhide and cut your own strips (approx.$28.00 for the rawhide and makes about 12 strips)
oooooooooo... I love Pho' ... my latest addiction
LOL! Yes we all are and thank you :)
Mike I've been doing this very thing for years and it works great!the good thing is it's long enough for horse bows in one shot..it also works great for 58 inch recurves that I make.lookbmenup on Facebook "primitive bows and arrows" my name is Frankie Rapp..I'm in shawnee country, southern Ohio...
Thank you, good sir!
If this works the local petshops will be very happy!
Hey man, you mentioned in a few videos, different types of bows such as malgavet and lacota? I'm sure there are many more also. I've reserched different bow designs but its really hard to find. I've finally managed to get my hands on some yew so now i just need to decide what shape the bow will take, thanks man
As they should be :P, right up until I demand my royalty checks :)
xaxaxa you're awesome! with much love doing this work!! therefore perfect!!
DEER RAWHIDE IS 2 TIMES STRONGER THAN COWHIDE, ELKHIDE IS 3 TIMES STRONGER....
KANGAROO RAWHIDE IS 8 to 10 TIMES STRONGER....YEP
hahaha, im really hoping this works now
SEW EM TOGETHER....!!!
Hmm. Makes soups and sauces somewhat less appealing. :D
It will kill a dog but great for backing
My dog ate my bow your fault lol
LOL. I have had the dogs at the range get very interested when I bring certain bows around :)
3 RIVERS HAS IT ALL 3rivers archery.com