Your prop concerns are silly. Going from shear pins to a rubber bushing insert is awesome! The rubber bushing doesn’t break, it’s designed to slip when struck!
I bought the older style one today it was it was in the box and never opened left in a garage the guy just never got round to using it I paid $400 for it good deal I think
2 things to note about having a fuel pump. #1 is, if the float in the carb sticks open, it wont fill the entire engine with gas. #2, if you run it completely dry of gas, it will take some pulling on the start rope, just to prime the fuel system
If you have a 2010 or newer it's very easy to ascertain the year. The first two numbers after the dash. For instance the 2010 model is 01, 2011 is 11, 2012 is 21, 2013 is 31 all the way to 2019 which is of course 91. Before or after gets a bit more confusing.
Hi. Do you have any videos information or tips on how to service/change the nylon steering bushes on the DF2.5 . Mine is getting very stiff ? Thanks in advance
@@craftsmandude8916 Buy some SEAFOAM and run that shit in every small engine you've got . It's about the only thing that I've found that actually works the way it says it does . I use it in every single drop of fuel that runs through one of my toys / tools .
Suggest you do a video on installing a fuel filter in all the 2.5 Suzuki engines. Its crazy that there is no filter! The gas lines are 3/16 inch. My carburetor had lots of black plastic like debris plugging everything up. I wonder if its from the plastic and hose in the new vacuum assisted fuel pump, possibly related to alcohol in fuel??? Also. the fuel filters should be installed in the fuel line as close as possible to the carburetor.
just got my early 80s game fisher to work, thought of the problem while watching your video, which is funny cause it was like bam i havent tried this and it worked :P
I have a 2007 model, despite replacing the water pump, i do not get a continuous stream of water out of the 2 holes on the back of the motor. Any ideas?
Check the intake line of the pump for a blockage. It's likely you have a small pebble or something lodged in it. I just saw a video of a guy attempting to track down the same issue. I'll see if I can find it for you a little bit later.
The 2006 model or first/old serie doesn't have a continuous water stream. Only when the thermostat is open, a limited number of drops wil l output on the 2 holes, together with the exhaust fumes.
I’ve had 3 of these motors since 08. Two old styes and one new. The biggest problem I’ve had with all 3 is the engine stalling after running for 30 to 50 minutes. To correct this so I can get home I’ve had to carry a replacement carb with one I cleaned or a new one and do the exchange up a creek. Not fun.Sometimes I get the entire remaining season out this exchange and for the most part one or two trips before the engine dies on me. I’ve had the engine checked out every year by the dealer and they found no problems. Yeah in a test tank it runs fine for 2 or 3 minutes but get it on the water where it’s pushing a canoe at 3//4 throttle at 7 mph and it will most like die after die after 1/2 hr. My best guess what the carb problems might be is the the small jet sizes a the poor float adjustment design.
That’s interesting, I’ve just got a 2.5 pushing a small tender, and the same thing happened to me after 15-20 minutes? It just stops running, leave it for a bit and it starts up again fine? Fuel starvation, jet blocked or float adjusted wrong?
The issue I have with my older (2011) Suzuki 2.5 is that the compression ratio seems very high, which means that it requires a lot of effort to start it (more than my wife can manage). A label on the side says it is an efficient 'Euro' model. Was hoping that if I bought a newer model (probably two stroke) it would be easy to start. Thoughts?
Great video, dude. I’m looking for something small and light for a 12’ inflatable cat, but the shear pin on the older models is a must for me. I’m only going to be in the very shallows around mangroves in Card Sound in Key Largo. I’m even considering just going with a 55 trolling, because on a boat this small, seems stupid to have both. Are there any other really small OBs you know of that have that quick repair for the shear pin?
There is a reason no manufacturers use shear pins anymore. The first time you hit a rock you will probably shear the pin. I hit rocks dozens of times before the rubber clutch in my prop finally went. By then the blades were in bad shape anyway. So I just replaced the prop.
does he older 2.5 with the 2 holes not spit water out of it ? i know the newer ones spit out the pee hole in the lower unit . i cant find any info on that .
I doubt you'll respond and looking through the comments I see no response but I'll ask a random question. Have you ever thought about taking the older lower prop and putting it on the newer motor or can you do that?
Yea I would like to know if the old lower is compatible with the new motor. Also the bushing prop, can a new bushing be pressed in or is it junk and you are looking at $150 every time you hit something?
@@fishnewhere387 I've used bushing type props on numerous motors over the years and have hit things many times. Never ruined a bushing hub due to one impact, it took several impacts. The rubber bushing will "slip" in the hub until prop isn't striking anything, then resume driving the prop. Each time the hub slips, the drive friction is weakened slightly and over time will wear out.
Thanks for your video! I had an old df2.5 and after 10 years I replaced with a new one. Here in Italy the new model doesn’t have any vacuum pump. What do you think about that? Tanks! _/\_
I am currently using mine on a Catalina 22 Carpi sailboat (race boats like light motors) and it will push the boat to over 5mph which is the maximum in the harbor. My issue occurs when I rotate the motor 180 degrees in order to back out of the slip. When I rotate it back around to push the boat forward it will often stall. I finally learned to rotate the motor very slowly in order to minimize sloshing in the float bowl or fuel starvation? I don't know the reason why, but I wonder if the new system with the gravity feed device was installed to minimize stalling?
Don’t buy one. Two big issues. They are a pain to start. The four stroke has a big kickback when you pull the start cord. The cord can forcibly pull back and your hand goes with it, smash into the cowl which hurts. Second issue, the exhaust valve gets rust on the stem, sticks, complete loss of compression. None of the reviews mention these issues, you have to search for the issues with this outboard.
Hi I have just purchased a 2007 one of these and it doesn’t have the tell-tail (water cooling indicator) would I need to get the motor warm for the thermostat to open or should this happen from start up, TIA
I had a 2hp two stroke circa 1991 for about 20 years and all kinds of abuse, finaly retired it last year. I purchased a brand new Suzuki 2.5 to replace it just fired it up after sitting for a year and it's running poorly, looks like I will have to take the carb apart and clean it. The old 2 hp was superior in nearly every aspect, lighter, smaller and way more power. The only advantage to the new one is that it has a neutral setting and it quieter. Even fuel consumption seems to be pretty close. The old motor had a 100/1 oil mix and that was important, she wouldn't run on 50/1.
Bye the way, the fuel pump is a pump, not a reservoir! Like most small engine fuel pumps, they work off the intake manifold intermittent negative pressure, moving a diaphragm up and down, coupled with some small valves, that pump the fuel. The new generation of engines have a fuel pump, but still no fuel filter. Thats nuts!
mine 2.5 Suzuki outboard does the same thing. ya jams in to gear if revs too high after put in N. I use mine 200 days a year and have been living with it so i guess it has not blew yet but would be nice to fix.
hmmm Mercury has always used that dumb rubber shear pin system, I wonder if Suzu and Merc are somehow intertwined now? I had one shear pin go and I took off the prop on an old chrysler 9.2, got the new pin in and just as I was putting the cotter pin back in watched it spin to the bottom of the sea! I just happened to have some heavy electric wire in the boat and I strapped the prop on just wrapping it around the prop and through the cotter pin hole, you know what? that motor ran perfect for another 10 years that way, I mean it made absolutely no sense, but after a few hours I was like, hey, it works, I am not gonna mess with it now... ha ha
Hi Steve I met you in KW last year while launching your boat. I live in BPK and just bought a used 8 foot livingston dinghy from sea center. What motor would your recommend for using in back country. I am 60yo woman and this will be my first motor. Thanks and love the video's and information.
In the newer models install a fuel filter just after the fuel pump. Its more difficult in the older models with a short fuel line and no pump. It's critically important!
Do you have a video on how to repair the lower unit? I also have an outboard whose propeller hit a rock and would not rotate any more even though the motor is running. I searched online and there seem to be no such instruction video. If you can make one that would be the one and only so far!
I have the ''old'' one, (bought brand new) Will never buy a small Suzuki again. They have a known problem with the carb blocking up. The tiny jets get clogged too easily. Even if you take precautions and drain the carb for storage and use clean fuel and additives it tends to not work. Apparently the ''new'' models have bigger jets. Its been to the shop several times and a month later runs like shit again. At the end of the day it's a hassle I could do without and will go back to tried and tested Yamaha or Tohatsu.
I recently bought a DF2.5 (2020 model) 20" Shaft motor and It works perfectly fine except, when I try to steer at quarter to half throttle, the steering becomes stiff. So every time I have to turn, I have to bring the motor to a complete idle and then steer. The steering tension adjusting knob is set to loose. any advice on this is much appreciated. I have seen the same problem reported by another person in suzuki outboard forums and no one so far has been replied.
Appreciate late reply. I find if u grease the bearing point where the motor clicks into the down position when you tilt it down helps. I think the stiffness is caused by the motors force on this point and it binds up slightly
Has anyone else ever used any other brand small (5 horsepower or less)motors like tohatsu mercury or Yamaha? Just started looking around and wanted to see want other people have experienced?
show how to replace the water pump on your suzuki 2.5 hp four stroke thank you very much they are both made in thailand meaning slave labor they should have made it in japan . suzuki dont want to pay labor cost .
Very helpful, as usual. i am looking at 2.5 hp outboards for my Blue Sky Boatworks Angler 360 catamaran kayak that weighs about 140lbs. I am considering the Suzuki, Tohatsu, Mercury, Honda, and maybe Yamaha. Definitely 4 stroke. Any thoughts? Do you prefer your Suzuki? If so, why? How do you carry extra fuel on your setup? PS: i follow all your videos.
Hi,, hey if you buy a new Suzuki I”m assuming it already has gear oil in it since that’s a relatively closed system. Am I correct in this assumption? I know you have to add motor oil to a new outboard.
The one I bought had gear oil in it but not all the way to the proper level. It's not a closed system. According to the owners manual you should change the gear oil every 100 hrs or 12 months.
Your prop concerns are silly. Going from shear pins to a rubber bushing insert is awesome! The rubber bushing doesn’t break, it’s designed to slip when struck!
I bought the older style one today it was it was in the box and never opened left in a garage the guy just never got round to using it I paid $400 for it good deal I think
The old 2006 model has no continous water stream, only some drops thru the 2 exhaust holes when the thermostat is open.
So does my 2007
2 things to note about having a fuel pump. #1 is, if the float in the carb sticks open, it wont fill the entire engine with gas. #2, if you run it completely dry of gas, it will take some pulling on the start rope, just to prime the fuel system
5:1, I’ll take that into consideration 😂😂😂
If you have a 2010 or newer it's very easy to ascertain the year. The first two numbers after the dash. For instance the 2010 model is 01, 2011 is 11, 2012 is 21, 2013 is 31 all the way to 2019 which is of course 91. Before or after gets a bit more confusing.
I thought I was hallucinating from being tired, seeing what appeared to be brown furry critters moving on the ground, glad it's just chickens!
Hi. Do you have any videos information or tips on how to service/change the nylon steering bushes on the DF2.5 . Mine is getting very stiff ?
Thanks in advance
Great vid, interesting and helpful.
The reason for the newer style pump is only to pass the emissions test in Commie-fornia . 😟
brad b I was working on mine the other day and all the fuel lines were cracked because of fing California
@@craftsmandude8916 Buy some SEAFOAM and run that shit in every small engine you've got . It's about the only thing that I've found that actually works the way it says it does . I use it in every single drop of fuel that runs through one of my toys / tools .
I totally agree with you, I’ve been cheaping out, but I’ll definitely pick some up when I’m at wal mart. Also Fuck California
Suggest you do a video on installing a fuel filter in all the 2.5 Suzuki engines. Its crazy that there is no filter! The gas lines are 3/16 inch. My carburetor had lots of black plastic like debris plugging everything up. I wonder if its from the plastic and hose in the new vacuum assisted fuel pump, possibly related to alcohol in fuel??? Also. the fuel filters should be installed in the fuel line as close as possible to the carburetor.
just got my early 80s game fisher to work, thought of the problem while watching your video, which is funny cause it was like bam i havent tried this and it worked :P
I'm with the chickens...tried n true old school always works best.
Very good review I hope the mnfg. Is watching thank you
Valuable information, especially about the prop. Thanks
I have a 2007 model, despite replacing the water pump, i do not get a continuous stream of water out of the 2 holes on the back of the motor.
Any ideas?
Check the intake line of the pump for a blockage. It's likely you have a small pebble or something lodged in it. I just saw a video of a guy attempting to track down the same issue. I'll see if I can find it for you a little bit later.
The 2006 model or first/old serie doesn't have a continuous water stream. Only when the thermostat is open, a limited number of drops wil l output on the 2 holes, together with the exhaust fumes.
I’ve had 3 of these motors since 08. Two old styes and one new. The biggest problem I’ve had with all 3 is the engine stalling after running for 30 to 50 minutes. To correct this so I can get home I’ve had to carry a replacement carb with one I cleaned or a new one and do the exchange up a creek. Not fun.Sometimes I get the entire remaining season out this exchange and for the most part one or two trips before the engine dies on me. I’ve had the engine checked out every year by the dealer and they found no problems. Yeah in a test tank it runs fine for 2 or 3 minutes but get it on the water where it’s pushing a canoe at 3//4 throttle at 7 mph and it will most like die after die after 1/2 hr. My best guess what the carb problems might be is the the small jet sizes a the poor float adjustment design.
That’s interesting, I’ve just got a 2.5 pushing a small tender, and the same thing happened to me after 15-20 minutes? It just stops running, leave it for a bit and it starts up again fine? Fuel starvation, jet blocked or float adjusted wrong?
@@tiemanmalcolm sounds like a junk vented fuel cap.
The issue I have with my older (2011) Suzuki 2.5 is that the compression ratio seems very high, which means that it requires a lot of effort to start it (more than my wife can manage). A label on the side says it is an efficient 'Euro' model. Was hoping that if I bought a newer model (probably two stroke) it would be easy to start. Thoughts?
Great video, dude.
I’m looking for something small and light for a 12’ inflatable cat, but the shear pin on the older models is a must for me. I’m only going to be in the very shallows around mangroves in Card Sound in Key Largo. I’m even considering just going with a 55 trolling, because on a boat this small, seems stupid to have both.
Are there any other really small OBs you know of that have that quick repair for the shear pin?
There is a reason no manufacturers use shear pins anymore. The first time you hit a rock you will probably shear the pin. I hit rocks dozens of times before the rubber clutch in my prop finally went. By then the blades were in bad shape anyway. So I just replaced the prop.
we sunk the 2019 version twice and rebuilt it.. it running!
This are good engines but Steve should be paid for taking it to the next level!
does he older 2.5 with the 2 holes not spit water out of it ? i know the newer ones spit out the pee hole in the lower unit . i cant find any info on that .
These engines and 3,5 have servere problems with running what so ever, due to bad carburator design. Did they ever fix this?
That is a really awesome custom setup. Nice comparison.
I doubt you'll respond and looking through the comments I see no response but I'll ask a random question. Have you ever thought about taking the older lower prop and putting it on the newer motor or can you do that?
STEVE, what did you used to do for a living? You’re a super smart knowledgeable guy
Now this guy knows how to do a comparison video! 👍
If he running the motor, people will see 2,5 Yamaha is better.
It's always good to get an opinion of someone that's used them both and had to rip then both apart a bit
can i get a bit better performace from df2 2,5 4 stroke suzuki
It's all talk. Thousands of words and we don't even get to see how they idle.
What about rebuilding an older style lower unit and swapping it onto a new engine?
Yea I would like to know if the old lower is compatible with the new motor. Also the bushing prop, can a new bushing be pressed in or is it junk and you are looking at $150 every time you hit something?
@@fishnewhere387
I've used bushing type props on numerous motors over the years and have hit things many times. Never ruined a bushing hub due to one impact, it took several impacts. The rubber bushing will "slip" in the hub until prop isn't striking anything, then resume driving the prop. Each time the hub slips, the drive friction is weakened slightly and over time will wear out.
Thanks for your video! I had an old df2.5 and after 10 years I replaced with a new one. Here in Italy the new model doesn’t have any vacuum pump. What do you think about that? Tanks! _/\_
Same here in Finland thank god. Nice and simple system :)
Can you connect to external gas tank?
Ya the 2 stroke is hassle oil mix ,but less complex machine less to go wrong.big factor to remember
There are several advantages with 4-stroke:
- better fuel efficiency.
- less noise.
- better reliability.
whish version of the motor is this short or long ?
Always listen to the chickens.
Do you have a video of how build your rig?
What spare parts would you
Say are essential to keep aboard when motoring the Suzuki 2.5? I suppose a shear pin if you have that model
Hi Steve, I hope you are well. What shaft do you use for your kayak 15" or 20" on your outboard motors?
I am currently using mine on a Catalina 22 Carpi sailboat (race boats like light motors) and it will push the boat to over 5mph which is the maximum in the harbor. My issue occurs when I rotate the motor 180 degrees in order to back out of the slip. When I rotate it back around to push the boat forward it will often stall. I finally learned to rotate the motor very slowly in order to minimize sloshing in the float bowl or fuel starvation? I don't know the reason why, but I wonder if the new system with the gravity feed device was installed to minimize stalling?
Great video
Don’t buy one. Two big issues. They are a pain to start. The four stroke has a big kickback when you pull the start cord. The cord can forcibly pull back and your hand goes with it, smash into the cowl which hurts. Second issue, the exhaust valve gets rust on the stem, sticks, complete loss of compression. None of the reviews mention these issues, you have to search for the issues with this outboard.
2 stroke is better
I’m having a hell of a time trying to id my outboard. DF 2.5 00252F-120719 can anyone help?
Hi I have just purchased a 2007 one of these and it doesn’t have the tell-tail (water cooling indicator) would I need to get the motor warm for the thermostat to open or should this happen from start up, TIA
One question, the engines are manufactured in which country? China? Thailand?
I had a 2hp two stroke circa 1991 for about 20 years and all kinds of abuse, finaly retired it last year. I purchased a brand new Suzuki 2.5 to replace it just fired it up after sitting for a year and it's running poorly, looks like I will have to take the carb apart and clean it. The old 2 hp was superior in nearly every aspect, lighter, smaller and way more power. The only advantage to the new one is that it has a neutral setting and it quieter. Even fuel consumption seems to be pretty close. The old motor had a 100/1 oil mix and that was important, she wouldn't run on 50/1.
Bye the way, the fuel pump is a pump, not a reservoir! Like most small engine fuel pumps, they work off the intake manifold intermittent negative pressure, moving a diaphragm up and down, coupled with some small valves, that pump the fuel. The new generation of engines have a fuel pump, but still no fuel filter. Thats nuts!
I'm looking for the manufacturer that says "we have bigger jets and bigger fuel passages for fewer carb cleans."
Somebody's selling a '12 that I've been looking at, you saved me future headaches, thank you!
first!!!
Have you actually measured the speed or just estimating??
Suzuki 2.5 outboard speeds up when put in neutral. Can you help?
mine 2.5 Suzuki outboard does the same thing. ya jams in to gear if revs too high after put in N. I use mine 200 days a year and have been living with it so i guess it has not blew yet but would be nice to fix.
Hit the choke for a second to tame it down.
Back the idle adjustment screw off by 3/4 turn, workd for me.
I think those fuel related stuff is for emissions.
hmmm Mercury has always used that dumb rubber shear pin system, I wonder if Suzu and Merc are somehow intertwined now? I had one shear pin go and I took off the prop on an old chrysler 9.2, got the new pin in and just as I was putting the cotter pin back in watched it spin to the bottom of the sea! I just happened to have some heavy electric wire in the boat and I strapped the prop on just wrapping it around the prop and through the cotter pin hole, you know what? that motor ran perfect for another 10 years that way, I mean it made absolutely no sense, but after a few hours I was like, hey, it works, I am not gonna mess with it now... ha ha
Hi Steve I met you in KW last year while launching your boat. I live in BPK and just bought a used 8 foot livingston dinghy from sea center. What motor would your recommend for using in back country. I am 60yo woman and this will be my first motor. Thanks and love the video's and information.
In the newer models install a fuel filter just after the fuel pump. Its more difficult in the older models with a short fuel line and no pump. It's critically important!
Why wouldn't you put a filter before the pump? You want junk in the vac pump?
@@eduffy4937 ... If there is room, do it. As long as it is before the carburetor
@@mymonster156 yep. The gauze filter isn't enough for me.
Always trust your chickens' opinion!
Do you have a video on how to repair the lower unit? I also have an outboard whose propeller hit a rock and would not rotate any more even though the motor is running. I searched online and there seem to be no such instruction video. If you can make one that would be the one and only so far!
I was gonna buy it until I saw the portion of video about prop replacement. thanks
Old propeller connection more practical.....can you change the new motor propeller connection to work like the old one ??
Hey buddy new Suzuki 2.5 owner. How much oil do you typically put it your motor?
Thank you for this comparison and information about the changeover in design 2012 - that's very helpful.
Great video. You should do a video on ur motor set up on your kayak next!
Great video very well done. I wish the model years of each motor had of been disclosed.
Did you have eny carburetor problem 's
fuel pomp is only for using external tank.. Its option..
Great overview. Thx for the time and effort that you put into this vid
I have the ''old'' one, (bought brand new) Will never buy a small Suzuki again. They have a known problem with the carb blocking up. The tiny jets get clogged too easily. Even if you take precautions and drain the carb for storage and use clean fuel and additives it tends to not work. Apparently the ''new'' models have bigger jets. Its been to the shop several times and a month later runs like shit again. At the end of the day it's a hassle I could do without and will go back to tried and tested Yamaha or Tohatsu.
Thanks matey ! Great information !
Looks like they improved it worse
Nice video man. I have the newer style. Do you know how and where we can grease this? I can't find anything online. Thanks.
Thanks great job.🇨🇦👍
Thank you Master, you´ve made a great job, explaining about this interesting motor outboard, some day I gonna buy one, maybe 15 Hp, greetings!
Run the motor, not just bub bub bub!
Thanks for the info and for helping me catch more fish! 😃
What size PVC pipe did you use for your outboard motor stand?
what is the name of the dealer?
Thank you for this video!
Great review. Thanks for sharing.
I recently bought a DF2.5 (2020 model) 20" Shaft motor and It works perfectly fine except, when I try to steer at quarter to half throttle, the steering becomes stiff. So every time I have to turn, I have to bring the motor to a complete idle and then steer. The steering tension adjusting knob is set to loose. any advice on this is much appreciated. I have seen the same problem reported by another person in suzuki outboard forums and no one so far has been replied.
Appreciate late reply. I find if u grease the bearing point where the motor clicks into the down position when you tilt it down helps. I think the stiffness is caused by the motors force on this point and it binds up slightly
The chicken factor is everything!
How do you tilt the new 2.5...im at the water now and I can't get it to tilt up. Please help.
بغيت موحريك يماها ليلبيع صغير8+6
Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Mi motor es diferente
Price how much
thanks
Has anyone else ever used any other brand small (5 horsepower or less)motors like tohatsu mercury or Yamaha? Just started looking around and wanted to see want other people have experienced?
James Lindow they all have one thing in common, they’re all loud,,, suzuki 2.5 is the most quiet motor ive ever used..
I have a 2.5 mercury that is fairly quiet and it is an awesome little outboard, see it here th-cam.com/video/OfpIYl9dBug/w-d-xo.html
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I own a df2.5 with the old fuel system( no pump) but the new propeller. I'll check out the year with the number. Thanks Steve.
Very helpful and informative...thanks Steve..
show how to replace the water pump on your suzuki 2.5 hp four stroke thank you very much they are both made in thailand meaning slave labor they should have made it in japan . suzuki dont want to pay labor cost .
hi,
how often does the motor requires maintenance?
Very helpful, as usual. i am looking at 2.5 hp outboards for my Blue Sky Boatworks Angler 360 catamaran kayak that weighs about 140lbs. I am considering the Suzuki, Tohatsu, Mercury, Honda, and maybe Yamaha. Definitely 4 stroke. Any thoughts? Do you prefer your Suzuki? If so, why? How do you carry extra fuel on your setup? PS: i follow all your videos.
I am trying to break in the 2.5 in a barrel, but have a hard time pulling. Do you have a tip for me? I have shoulder problems...
Use your teeth
Hi,, hey if you buy a new Suzuki I”m assuming it already has gear oil in it since that’s a relatively closed system. Am I correct in this assumption? I know you have to add motor oil to a new outboard.
The one I bought had gear oil in it but not all the way to the proper level. It's not a closed system. According to the owners manual you should change the gear oil every 100 hrs or 12 months.