I'm looking to do my first build, so this video was great. It's been a while since you did this. I recently purchased the MPA STD Chassis Rem short brnt brnz MPA BA. I think I'm gonna go with the 6.5, but I'd like to know if you could give me an updated list of what you'd use now. It is a burnt bronze color, so I'm looking for a matching barrell and action. Any ideas?
Realistically, we wouldn’t change a thing. For matching colors, the best route is going to be finding a cerakote shop. Don’t choose components based on color.
Great rifle build, truly a masterpiece...However for a "new shooter", you cant go wrong with a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5CM Rifle which is just as customizable if not more - $1,200 all day on gunbroker.com Timney 2 stage drop in trigger $219 on optics planet Ergo tactical grip - $35 on optics planet Atlas bipod - $240 on optics planet Vortex PST Gen II $999 on optics planet Total - $2,693 and will compete with any rifle on the range. Just food for thought for an entry level rifle
I don't disagree that the RPR is a solid entry rifle. The premise of the video, however, is a first custom rifle. This is what someone that started with a RPR, and fell in love with the sport, will often graduate to.
This was a ground-up, part by part build. With the huge number of new R700 platform parts that have hit the market in the last 5 years, ground-up has become much more of an option for most people.
Looking for barrel brand suggestions. Looking to put together a 26 inch plus 25-06AI with 1 in 7 twist setup. Not a serious PRS gun, more of a "go out with buddies and ring steel at 1000 yards" gun. Looking at a factory small shank Savage 110 action, and will be putting things together myself.
Looking to get into PRS and plan to take courses and need a rifle. This isn’t something I plan to dabble with and not afraid of the investment(s). I just need to know where to begin! Should I begin with a custom rifle, or something production, like a CA MPR, DD Delta 5 Pro, or AI AT-X? Also, is it better for complete beginners to start in production class competitions, or does it matter?
@@area419 Well perhaps that is something to think about. To the casual observer, it is easy to see why there are 6000 folks involved in PRS out of 110 million gun owners. Thanks very much.
@@julianmercier only a small number of car enthusiasts ever buy a true sports car, and even fewer go to the track. This kind of thing isn't at all isolated to shooting. Same could be said of nearly any activity that has a true competitive segment as well as enthusiast/hobby segments. Fishing, Golf, BBQ, Cars, Skiing, etc - they largely work in similar ways
@@area419 There was a time when it was approachable and affordable. Obviously that was many years ago. Working class people with limited time for practice and occasional competition. You would win this month and maybe I would win next month. That changed into people shooting 52 weekends a year and 3 times during the week. The friendliness disappeared in favor of a "win-at-any-cost" attitude. I participated in pistol competitions many years ago. Now I cannot find anyone shooting production in USPSA or stock service pistol in IDPA. All carry oprics, pistol caliber carbines, and unaffordable "John Wick" guns. The same five guys are in first through fifth place every time. I am glad a tiny percentage of gun owners can enjoy it. I wish I still could.
Great video … I’m a novice and want to try my hand at PRS. Would you suggest buying a factory rifle or custom rifle ? If factory please give me some suggestions. Thanks in advance !
If you're going to start with something factory, some options like the Bergara HMR aren't bad, but you're VERY likely to end up spending more on this route, as you'll not likely be happy until you've gone custom. We tend to suggest you buy once, cry once.
@@area419 no not at all. But that’s different scenario. Time shooting and practicing is important. Cost of ammo and barrel life matters if you just starting out and 100 yards is new for you. Working way up by the time get past 600 yards barrel shot out and time to move to 6.5 :)
I disagree the APA muzzle brake is a great muzzle brake I would go with a McMillan stock of course that's my preference and I'm more partial to a 308 and for the trigger a jewel trigger and Nightforce on the scope all the way and you didn't touch bases on the ring or the base Badger Ordnance all the way you forgot to mention bed in the base to the top of the receiver which some people forgets and although you don't have to bed a McMillan stock I still glass bed for extra security Harris has been a great bipod for many years and is still used by most professionals
Craig, barrel metallurgy is big with me .. I would need to know things like the Rockwell Harness, if it galls easily, or its prone to corrosion .. I'm not interested in 300 or 400 series stainless steel .. 17-4PH should be high grade 90-95 series made by Sandvik as this metal offers the best crystallinity .. Grains are tight without irregularities .. Sandvik makes this high grade 17-4PH with Cobalt, Copper, Tellurium & Tantalum .. 17-4PH is a free machining metal when when soft and is dimensionally stable after hardening .. When hardened 17-4PH will be much harder than 300-400 series stainless .. So it is better with wear & corrosion even with magnum calibers .. My second choice would be 4140 / 4145 stainless steals .. The don't hold up to corrosion so barrels must be hard chromed like military guns .. Hard chromed lined barrels have a very high wear life .. The barrels should also be coated as well .. Hardness is very good but wear not as good as 17-4PH .. With a hard chrome lined barrel the barrel life should be better than most .. The military uses these metal in the Abrams tank guns, CWIS and other high cyclic rate guns as it does not loose hardness as easily as 17-4PH .. The one thing that is better about 17-4PH is that it does not become embrittled at very cold temperatures which can't be said about the 4140 / 4145 stainless steels .. I don't know what my thoughts are with the bolt carrier group .. I just don't want galling .. I also know for a fact that when doing fluting that one should always add a small radius along all flutes .. This makes bolts glide much better .. Big fan of the MPA platform .. I like taking down the gun after the trigger so it will fit more conveniently into a case . . . I have a number of .308's specifically because I know how the shoot .. To me they seem predictable .. I have had guns with 26" 28" both with progressive twist rates .. I believe that progressive twists offer better accuracy at longer distances .. I really don't notice any difference between a 26" progressive and a 28" progressive .. I've been experimenting with a steep V cutter for the rear of my bullets to lighten the tail and focus the weight towards the center of the round .. I believe that I have solved the nose up problem over long trajectories .. With these modified bullets accuracy over 600 yards is affected / increased & bullets are less affected by wind / humidity / air density .. I believe I have increased the B.C.'s of the bullets but don't want to speculate by how much ..
We make a lot of parts from 17-4PH (though we do not manufacture barrels or actions at this time) but you’ll find that MOST match-grade barrels, like the common ones from Bartlein/Krieger/Hawk Hill/Benchmark/Etc are 416. There are some guys working with tougher anti-wear alloys, but they must also balance the ability to run a 30”+ gun drill through the blank in as straight a line as possible. Among the easiest answers for anti-galling it to use stainless and thread on parts (brake, receiver) that have been nitrided.
@@area419 I disagree .. There are two companies who used 17-4PH after 4145 .. Both claim that if the metals are heated to 350C - 400C they machine like butter ! .. Tungsten Cobalt Carbide Drills put to shame the drills of yester year .. When your barrel can last 5-7 times as long, people won't continue to purchase 416R whose hardness is no longer remarkable .. These new sintered steels are remarkable .. There is a next gen of steels coming .. These steels don't get visibility by rifle barrel shops .. These are the new multi-frequency high energy aligned quasi crystal plasma steels .. This is cutting edge technology that only until recently was not available to the public .. The multi frequency sources align atoms & molecules in highly symmetric patters to more evenly distribute and normalize molecular crystallinity moving into new classes of super metals ..
the US availability of factory, match-grade ammunition for those calibers is very limited. Also, with their longer cases and newer, longer projectiles, they are less suited for use in short action, magazine-fed rifles.
Can you please post a list of the complete build so I can reference? Thanks!
What barrel did you use?
Also would be cool if you listed the parts/price in the description of the video. Thanks for the info!
What is the material of the barrel, it’s weight, twist rate and number of groves?
I'm looking to do my first build, so this video was great. It's been a while since you did this. I recently purchased the MPA STD Chassis Rem short brnt brnz MPA BA. I think I'm gonna go with the 6.5, but I'd like to know if you could give me an updated list of what you'd use now. It is a burnt bronze color, so I'm looking for a matching barrell and action. Any ideas?
Realistically, we wouldn’t change a thing. For matching colors, the best route is going to be finding a cerakote shop. Don’t choose components based on color.
@@area419 I get that. I just saw one that looked pretty badass. Would you guys be interested in selling me the rest of the setup that you'd recommend?
Can you help me to build my first 6.5 creed more rifle? What to buy and where to order parts. Thanks
Building a prs with a Vudoo I am set in scope and rail and the bi pod. I am all over the board on chassie Any opinion?
After a 6.5 cm where would you go in the 30 cal territory? 300 win or 300 prc? Been wondering where to go for longer range.
300 rum
Great rifle build, truly a masterpiece...However for a "new shooter", you cant go wrong with a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5CM
Rifle which is just as customizable if not more - $1,200 all day on gunbroker.com
Timney 2 stage drop in trigger $219 on optics planet
Ergo tactical grip - $35 on optics planet
Atlas bipod - $240 on optics planet
Vortex PST Gen II $999 on optics planet
Total - $2,693 and will compete with any rifle on the range. Just food for thought for an entry level rifle
I don't disagree that the RPR is a solid entry rifle. The premise of the video, however, is a first custom rifle. This is what someone that started with a RPR, and fell in love with the sport, will often graduate to.
hey bud hope you are doing well could you please tell me what gun u started with please or did you build this from the ground up
This was a ground-up, part by part build. With the huge number of new R700 platform parts that have hit the market in the last 5 years, ground-up has become much more of an option for most people.
what is this aspect ratio lol
For such price tag wouldn’t be easier to buy Voodoo rifle?
A Vudoo is a 22LR - meaningfully different classification or rifle when compared to a match rifle for centerfire.
6.
At what number we can reach you ?
Some people's comments.... it's like they're not even watching the same video. Or they just want to pretend they know more. Haha
Looking for barrel brand suggestions. Looking to put together a 26 inch plus 25-06AI with 1 in 7 twist setup. Not a serious PRS gun, more of a "go out with buddies and ring steel at 1000 yards" gun. Looking at a factory small shank Savage 110 action, and will be putting things together myself.
Why would someone out grow an aftermarket action?
Desire for some different spec or additional feature. Same reason people with nice cars or houses want nicer cars or houses.
craig took great care of me on my custom rifle from Area419 and I love it!
Looking to get into PRS and plan to take courses and need a rifle. This isn’t something I plan to dabble with and not afraid of the investment(s). I just need to know where to begin! Should I begin with a custom rifle, or something production, like a CA MPR, DD Delta 5 Pro, or AI AT-X? Also, is it better for complete beginners to start in production class competitions, or does it matter?
Great video! Thank you
O.K. I understand. Only for people with a great deal of time and money. Had a slight desire to get into it. Now I don't.
If you want to shoot precision competition and lower the requirements for time and money inputs, 22/rimfire based competition may be right for you
@@area419 Well perhaps that is something to think about. To the casual observer, it is easy to see why there are 6000 folks involved in PRS out of 110 million gun owners. Thanks very much.
@@julianmercier only a small number of car enthusiasts ever buy a true sports car, and even fewer go to the track. This kind of thing isn't at all isolated to shooting. Same could be said of nearly any activity that has a true competitive segment as well as enthusiast/hobby segments. Fishing, Golf, BBQ, Cars, Skiing, etc - they largely work in similar ways
@@area419 There was a time when it was approachable and affordable. Obviously that was many years ago. Working class people with limited time for practice and occasional competition. You would win this month and maybe I would win next month. That changed into people shooting 52 weekends a year and 3 times during the week. The friendliness disappeared in favor of a "win-at-any-cost" attitude. I participated in pistol competitions many years ago. Now I cannot find anyone shooting production in USPSA or stock service pistol in IDPA. All carry oprics, pistol caliber carbines, and unaffordable "John Wick" guns. The same five guys are in first through fifth place every time. I am glad a tiny percentage of gun owners can enjoy it. I wish I still could.
BEAUTIFUL RIFLE.
Great video … I’m a novice and want to try my hand at PRS. Would you suggest buying a factory rifle or custom rifle ? If factory please give me some suggestions. Thanks in advance !
If you're going to start with something factory, some options like the Bergara HMR aren't bad, but you're VERY likely to end up spending more on this route, as you'll not likely be happy until you've gone custom. We tend to suggest you buy once, cry once.
Why not .308 for barrel life if new shooter?
Would you get into car racing with fuel efficiency as a requirement?
@@area419 no not at all. But that’s different scenario. Time shooting and practicing is important. Cost of ammo and barrel life matters if you just starting out and 100 yards is new for you. Working way up by the time get past 600 yards barrel shot out and time to move to 6.5 :)
I disagree the APA muzzle brake is a great muzzle brake I would go with a McMillan stock of course that's my preference and I'm more partial to a 308 and for the trigger a jewel trigger and Nightforce on the scope all the way and you didn't touch bases on the ring or the base Badger Ordnance all the way you forgot to mention bed in the base to the top of the receiver which some people forgets and although you don't have to bed a McMillan stock I still glass bed for extra security Harris has been a great bipod for many years and is still used by most professionals
Craig, barrel metallurgy is big with me .. I would need to know things like the Rockwell Harness, if it galls easily, or its prone to corrosion .. I'm not interested in 300 or 400 series stainless steel .. 17-4PH should be high grade 90-95 series made by Sandvik as this metal offers the best crystallinity .. Grains are tight without irregularities .. Sandvik makes this high grade 17-4PH with Cobalt, Copper, Tellurium & Tantalum .. 17-4PH is a free machining metal when when soft and is dimensionally stable after hardening .. When hardened 17-4PH will be much harder than 300-400 series stainless .. So it is better with wear & corrosion even with magnum calibers ..
My second choice would be 4140 / 4145 stainless steals .. The don't hold up to corrosion so barrels must be hard chromed like military guns .. Hard chromed lined barrels have a very high wear life .. The barrels should also be coated as well .. Hardness is very good but wear not as good as 17-4PH .. With a hard chrome lined barrel the barrel life should be better than most .. The military uses these metal in the Abrams tank guns, CWIS and other high cyclic rate guns as it does not loose hardness as easily as 17-4PH .. The one thing that is better about 17-4PH is that it does not become embrittled at very cold temperatures which can't be said about the 4140 / 4145 stainless steels ..
I don't know what my thoughts are with the bolt carrier group .. I just don't want galling .. I also know for a fact that when doing fluting that one should always add a small radius along all flutes .. This makes bolts glide much better .. Big fan of the MPA platform .. I like taking down the gun after the trigger so it will fit more conveniently into a case . . .
I have a number of .308's specifically because I know how the shoot .. To me they seem predictable .. I have had guns with 26" 28" both with progressive twist rates .. I believe that progressive twists offer better accuracy at longer distances .. I really don't notice any difference between a 26" progressive and a 28" progressive .. I've been experimenting with a steep V cutter for the rear of my bullets to lighten the tail and focus the weight towards the center of the round .. I believe that I have solved the nose up problem over long trajectories .. With these modified bullets accuracy over 600 yards is affected / increased & bullets are less affected by wind / humidity / air density .. I believe I have increased the B.C.'s of the bullets but don't want to speculate by how much ..
We make a lot of parts from 17-4PH (though we do not manufacture barrels or actions at this time) but you’ll find that MOST match-grade barrels, like the common ones from Bartlein/Krieger/Hawk Hill/Benchmark/Etc are 416. There are some guys working with tougher anti-wear alloys, but they must also balance the ability to run a 30”+ gun drill through the blank in as straight a line as possible.
Among the easiest answers for anti-galling it to use stainless and thread on parts (brake, receiver) that have been nitrided.
@@area419 I disagree .. There are two companies who used 17-4PH after 4145 .. Both claim that if the metals are heated to 350C - 400C they machine like butter ! ..
Tungsten Cobalt Carbide Drills put to shame the drills of yester year .. When your barrel can last 5-7 times as long, people won't continue to purchase 416R whose hardness is no longer remarkable .. These new sintered steels are remarkable ..
There is a next gen of steels coming .. These steels don't get visibility by rifle barrel shops .. These are the new multi-frequency high energy aligned quasi crystal plasma steels .. This is cutting edge technology that only until recently was not available to the public .. The multi frequency sources align atoms & molecules in highly symmetric patters to more evenly distribute and normalize molecular crystallinity moving into new classes of super metals ..
@@all41n14lla 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@planeiron241 wtf!!! Smh. Ridiculous
what about to start with 6.5x57 mauser or 6.5x55 swede they are way better than 6.5creedmor
the US availability of factory, match-grade ammunition for those calibers is very limited. Also, with their longer cases and newer, longer projectiles, they are less suited for use in short action, magazine-fed rifles.