Simple way to make your 3d printed parts looks Amazing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2019
- In this video i will show You how to make your 3d printed parts looks shiny and smooth.
links to accessories:
1. 3D printer Ender 3 - amzn.to/2WfBRYX
2. Wood filler - amzn.to/2NqXyDK
3. Spray filler - amzn.to/31DLx1v
4. Sand paper's - amzn.to/2LG54sD - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I've read a lot of negative comments on here. If you've ever done a wood working project you would know that sometimes the finishing takes more time than the building. In metal work there is a lot of grinding involved to make a part look good. If you want something that looks nice, it takes time and effort.
Thanks for good comment :)
Yeah, it says simple, not quick. Besides, you're waiting 7 hours for a print.. you can do an hour to shine it up
no shit , sherlock , you haven't said anything informative
Stuart Williams it dosen't take an hour , it takes more time than 7 hours
@@lian7092 To shine them up or to print? I have never had to spend all that much time polishing or shining them to get a good finish. Other than that, you ok there, bud? You seem a little upset.
Nice work mate but a little advice from an old guy with dermatitis on the hands; use disposable vinyl gloves and you will be glad you did when your 70.
Sounds like a good idea. Next time I'll use it
What's exactly the issue here? Skin is renewed frequently (like monthly 1 layer). Is it the contact with PLA? Sand? Other chemical compounds?
Go on a carnivore diet and dermatitis will go away. TH-cam it
@@dpgedward5947 TH-cam < actual scientific studies
@@WernerBeroux I’m 60, and spent most of my life working in engineering.
I use latex gloves and barrier creams, however, over the last two years I’ve become allergic to grease, not oil though.
The lightest smear, which can be invisible, will cause redness and hives within minutes, including itching.
Washing the grease off, instantly gets rid of the itch, the hives and redness take around an hour to completely disappear.
At the end of the day you wanted a beautiful finish, got one and showed how to achieve it. Hats off to you.
:)
I think all that sanding took more than a day.
I’m happy your happy with the finished look but dry your filament first.
I think your expecting 3D print not to look like 3d prints. Print ABS and vapor polish.
Sorry not my cup of tea.
@@mauricesharp4317 Some people want the best result possible. The beauty of 3D printing is that you can make things that you can't get otherwise. Sometimes that's worth putting hard work into. If making a top quality thing is too much work for you then that's your prerogative.
@@mauricesharp4317 what do you use to dry your filament ?
@@TheDroneNerd dehumidifer
Lol people confusing “simple” with “time consuming”, this video is simple actually, but time consuming, something more complex would be acetone shower on ABS, but it can take less time than this method. Maybe this is not the recommended way, but is really simple and it works for him and he wanted to share with us...
Thank You for nice comment. It's exacly like You said - it's easy but takes time :)
@@MensHobby_PL Sorry to say that but easy is not simple. Yes it is quite easy and yes it takes some time but it is nothing that I would call simple, because there is a lot of work and different metreials involved.
@@KurtKn1sp3l You're literally arguing over semantics. You're boiling it down to the definition of the word simple. If you go to Google and type in "Simple Synonym" you'll see Easy as the second or third word.
Just seems like you want an excuse to be combative.
@@Real28 you made Kuestenjung go oooff
School assignments
Bro that looks so clean it looks like it was shop brought. Brilliant
bought
Really nice looking result!
Just some quick tips for anyone that wants to do this:
Use a universal filler(that works with plastics) or one made for plastics specifically, instead of one for wood.
Use a plastic primer before painting plastics!
Save yourselves a lot of time and use a razor to remove the worst parts, 120-180 for rough spots. Then 400 grit sand paper for smooth out scratches before painting. It's Definately enough if you're going to spraypaint it afterwards.
1500 is overkill, I use that AFTER painting when working towards the polishing stage on cars
Also: Consider using ABS or PETG to print it since they have good chemical and UV resistance and the part stays nice and is usable for years
Oohhh, the satisfaction of making, and finishing a good looking project is an art allmost forgotten, now people want things fast and easy..... good job 😊
Anyone else look at the sped up footage and think "I wish my hands could sand that fast in real life."??
th-cam.com/video/3thCNTS0i4o/w-d-xo.html
Yes I did
It's called a Dremel with a sanding drum
Interesting that some of your viewers have time to watch the video but don't have time to do all that work. Good result.
Exacly. If i want to print it better i will do it. This video shows that even from bad print we can do something nice
Men's Hobby Instead of wood filler and such look at the materials used in scale modeling. Water soluable pastes and whatnot. Then paint with a airbrush or coat using metal adhesive and so on. Also the gas bath seems to work nicely for smoothing the layers out.
I for one wouldn't mind having to use some time for making prints better.
lmao yea cause you have to wait 12 hours in between the video *rolls eyes* USE CAR BONDO: 3M BONDO 801 - it dries within the hour & you don't have a 12 hour wait period.
@@64hapz I'll do it next time
The video is 7 minutes. The work takes much longer than that. Your logic is flawed.
Nice, this really helped me start smoothing out my prints!
What happens when you see pits in the dried wood filler after sanding? They showed up better on the spray filler. Do I sand and use more spray filler or fill in the small pits with spot putty or resin?
Amazing work, this is the dark side of a quality 3d printed piece, keep it up.
Good job man. The finished part looked great and I appreciate the effort you put into making it look so good. Thanks for sharing your technique.
Thanks. Next time I'll printed better quality and use only filler and paint.
The simpler way to get to this point would have been to dump the factory buildtak.. drop your bed temp to 60 where it belongs and print straight on glass. Lower your layer height to .08 after the initial 2-3 layers and let it run. You spend more time w the unattended print but your post print cleanup is significantly less. Also... there’s no point in using sandpaper under 300 grit. First pass at 300, second at 800, and then to 1600. Alternatively they also have automotive paint w primer / filler in it - which could bang this out a lot quicker.
I'd disagree on the "no point less than 300" part, sanding defects out takes a lot longer at finer grits, I like 100 grit for quick removal of layer lines, then to ~240 then 600.
@@MaximilianonMars He suggested using layer heights of 0.08mm, at such a fine layer height (even slightly thicker at 0.12), layer lines are not really a huge problem. Of course, you can use coarser grit sandpaper to remove larger defects and support structure residue, but even for such scenario, using finer grit sandpaper helps to maintain dimensional accuracy.
This print at 0.08 would take like 24 hours. I personally would much rather bang out the print in like 6-7 hours then sand it down for 30 minutes.
Odious Ritual and this is why things like octoprint exist. Let the machine run and do its thing.. leaving you free to do whatever else :P
Like you can guarantee that 60 will work for him. What if it doesn't? Different filament, different environment, different temperatures. I print at 50 on the bed on one of my printers and 60 on the other. Should I increase the first printer, or decrease the second? Neither, I should keep it where it is. Also, you people need to seriously stop with the glass bullshit. Printing on glass isn't an upgrade, it's a fucking downgrade. There's nothing wrong with the factory faketak and the textured finish it leaves on the bottom of prints can even be desirable in some circumstances. As for .08mm layer heights, you could get it printed and sanded in the time it took to print it at such a low height, lol.
No comment on the sanding advice, sounds good to me.
Using cura "adaptive layer" will really smooth those curves during printing to the point you'll only have to do very minimal sanding.
I know. This video shows how to finish even bad quality print
you know what, you just saved me man... thanks a lot
The beauty of it is ( simple, tools or substances available in each house), yes it takes time but that what (I made it by myself) means ..even it is known that you need to sand it, spray it to get what you want but you make it very clear and showed us all the steps, for a beginner its helped me a lot. love it and thanks for sharing it with us.
Just a tip for ABS prints. Paint with polyester resin(+2% catalyst). The solvents in the resin slightly melt the ABS plastic and leaves a smooth shiny finish with out the need for any preparation.
Woah.. I'm gonna give this a try. Time consuming or not, this looks good and worth a try! Thanks for uploading this!
th-cam.com/video/3thCNTS0i4o/w-d-xo.html
Wow, I have printed the same stand yesterday and I was exactly wondering how to make it look better :D
Where can I find it? As stl file?
@@jontefels www.thingiverse.com/thing:2050885
THANKS ¦)
Great video, always satisfying to see the final product after putting in the work! Any reason you went with wood filler, instead of an epoxy filler or something similar? Many of the videos ive seen of making accurate moulds and such tend to use an epoxy gel to fill in and then smooth out.
This will generally be appreciated by the generation who remember radio controlled planes coming as a box of balsa wood rather than the pre-built pre-covered models we get today.
It will also be appreciated by younger folks with brilliant minds who realise that creation is more than just hitting "print", and that some truly fantastic finishes can be achieved with these new 3d printers and some elbow grease.
I fall in the former group, but am really thankful to the latter group for giving me a new hobby :)
For controlled sharp edges use tape and sand to the tape. Using a narrower tape allows tighter radius curves that can be reinforced by adding more tape to the protected side. For flatter surface use a sanding block not just your super soft finger tips, to sand interior rounded corners spray some glue on the back side of the sandpaper and glue to a round pencil.
Love the sanding time lapses!
Obviously a lot of people haven’t worked with plastics and wood. Sanding is a simple but slow process. Hats off to you
Thank You. It's simple but most millenials just don't want to do that :)
I followed your method on the same model and got amazing results. The person I made it for refused to believe it was 3d printed! Thank you
came out looking really good! I've got some sandpaper, spray filler and spray paints, might have to give this headphone stand a go on my ender 3 I just got :)
th-cam.com/video/3thCNTS0i4o/w-d-xo.html
Great video. Another option is to print in Polysmooth, do a little sanding with 80 and 150x, then one hour with Everclear 90% grain alcohol, painted on, followed by a day to dry, at first covered so dust doesn't fall on the product. Results in a great product without the obnoxiousness of Acetone on ABS. Everclear is available at many liquor stores. Need the 90%. You can also do the smoothing in a fog set up, but it takes longer and weakens the part. Polymaker has a fog machine but we haven't tried it.
Does this work with any filament? Don‘t think so
Love it! Takes solid effort to finish but that's the key: hard work. The printer gets you only so far. Great stuff, Thanks!
I do this with some of my prints and it is very satisfying getting the results you have shown.
I'd nip off large defects and then immediately hit it with spray filler prior to any sanding and restrict the use of wood filler to only large holes or defects. Saves so much time
But will it stick?
Dang I really wanted to see the headphones on it
Looks amazing tho
Did you use clear coat over the black? if so did you wet sand the clear coat? did you use spray enamel, Laquer? or did you air brush? great looking finished product! working on the same stand but my paint is curling up.
Thanks for the tip to use wood filler. I never had that in mind. But its much cheaper than plastic putty, and sands much better in my opinion.
that look so good nice work clean and shine
Thanks
Great video, magnificent finish. Blown away by hope good it looks in the end. Love the Ender3. How long did the whole process take?
Around 2 -2.5h of work. Not included drying process
@@MensHobby_PL I'll have to try this out myself, love the finished look
@@mikep.okeeffe1321 Great. In this moment im uploading new video. From 3d print to epoxy model.
hi.. thanks for your video sharing.. do we need to use water while sanding the wood filler? Will the wood filler washed away if we use water to sand it?
I just love videos with jazzy stock music, nothing better. Ears filled with mesmerizing noise. I don't even watch the video. Just lean back and listen. I just love it. I hope more people used this kind of glamorous music in their videos.
Thanks. I also like that song ;)
!!At last!!! someone that has some sense of beauty and do not spill a lot of chemicals that literally melts the print making it look like an horrible shiny kids toy, congrats, amazing finish and polish
PS: for small pieces like that, just buy a resin elegoo mars
Thanks for good comment. :)
Oh.. my God...😮! With this technique i don't need those expensive 3d printers. I realise that i can do beautifull peaces like this with I ender 5. Thanks for charing
Celio Issof what??? The ender 5 and ender 3 gives you awesome quality
Compared to other fdm printers of course
Yes sla gives better prints, but still
This guy printed with like 100mm/s
And he has terrible slicer settings
@@010falcon There's absolutely nothing wrong with his slicer settings, what are you even talking about? And no where does he say that he printed at 100mm/s, lol.
Yay for Acetone vapor polishing. Sanding is great too
in ANY industry rough shaping takes minutes or even seconds
after that, the perfect finish takes hours
smooth plastic parts are cheap and fast only if you spent months to make the molds
i need to print a lot of large rough curved parts to this video is very useful
you should try automotive body filler, dries very fast and very smooth after sanding also extremely durable. Very nice finish process, regardless.
Thanks. Next time i'll try.
I find a pain with body filler is that you can only mix up small bits at a time. I like the idea of watered down wood filler.
Glazing putty sands even easier. Make sure it's the one that is 2 parts, the putty and hardener. Polyester Glazing Putty is a little expensive but great stuff and more water resistant. Can be found at any auto body supply store.
Astounding. I'm taking my bondo back to the store tomorrow. I suspected that I could use wood filler. Non-toxic and easy to work with. This technique would only work though for opaque parts. You would need to use something like Smooth-on XTC-3D instead for translucent or transparent parts.
I use XTC-3D and love it!
That looks fabulous great job!
Thanks again for this video. What type of wood filler are you using? I'm afraid that the water form wet sanding will dissolve it...
new title: How to make your 3d printed parts look Amazing in 15hrs. not simple but it came out amazing.
It is simple, everyone can do it.
@@BenBensen293 sure it is ass clown, in 15 hrs!
it said simple. not quick. quality takes time.
You've earned my subb...great job on that one!
Thanks ;)
I use a thin mixture of plaster with water over the entire surface to fill the layer lines and sand off the excess. I also use spackle paste used for drywall, can be thinned with water , no fumes, no mixing, and it's similar to woodfiller
Incredible man, love your dedication to create such a great looking product. You’ve inspired me to look into the whole 3D Printing concept for my future projects. Again, loved watching your video, more than once 😂👍.
So happy to hear that. In next video i will show some nice decorations which You can print. Maybe it will be some inspiration for all of You .
Thank TH-cam for the Fast play options😀
A load of keyboard warriors here, giving it the big one! Well done @Mens Hobby. At least you made a video showing people how to finish a print and didn't just write a patronizing comment on how you could do it better! Clearly a person who cares about what they are doing
Thanks for comment :)
hi, i have a question. after you apply wood filler and sand it. how do you remove the dust from sanding the wood filler? or you just spray the primer filler after sanding? thank you
wow,man!!!
amazing finishings,GREAT looking...you've just earned another satisfied client💪💪💪
thank's a lot
Woah, that took like forever, but the result speaks for itself. Maybe you want to price yourself a nice sandpaper holder, to speed things up? Or polish with a Dremel like tool.. anyway, I really like the idea to use wood filler, because it will add the material that you sanded off, keeping the dimensions.
Fun thing about 3d printers? You can print your own sandpaper holders! I've made a set to get in those nooks and crannies my big clumsy fingers have trouble reaching. Lots of cool choices, and I've even seen people print theirs in different colors to indicate the grit of paper!
Now put a bitten apple and sell it $900 ! :D (good job BTW !)
Have you ever considered using hot irons to fuse the outer layer into a single piece, then sanding with water after to smooth the leftover edging?
Amazing, Takes a lot of time... But what doesn't! Thank you for this idea, works amazingly.
thats hard work and time. I prefer best quality. takes time buts safe me time and effort on finishing. even I don't go further.
This video shows how u can make good looking finish from bad quality parts. I can print it better
@@MensHobby_PL im wondering, could a belt sander be used for this? i imagine it being a lot faster
@@tormodhag6824 you could do it, but the heat produced from fast sanding will melt the plastic and you don’t want that.. maybe if you could combine it with water.. but you should isolate the water from the electrical parts somehow.
@@kevindragone ive seen people mount water jets the blasts the sandpaper belt, maybe it would help. Tried using a Angle grinder with a sandpaper disk But it melted quickly, i may try wetting the sandpaper and see
this is flash after season 5
That looks really good. Took allot of time and effort and the finished product looks really nice and clean. Have a question. What is it.??
What type of paint have u used? Is it acrylic paint?
could have started with the filler and sand down to 320/400 and paint 1500 is too fine for painting
Truth be told, he didn't need to sand at all, use a spray primer....then paint.
You spent more time on SANDING than on PRINTING lol
You always will if you want a great finish..unless you're using abs.
@@williamhall5893 do ABS look better? I am newbie
@@halukdenizmedet5905 not so much that it looks better but easier to make look better. With ABS you can use acetone to easily smooth out the finish rather than spend many hours sanding. Abs is more finicky to print though. Less problems with pla. There are arguments for using either.
@@williamhall5893 Thank you very much
@@halukdenizmedet5905 To successfully print ABS you need a fully enclosed printer to keep the print warm or it will likely suffer delamination while it's printing. ABS is stinky/toxic while printing because of it's chemistry so external ventilation is a must. Stick with PLA unless there's a really good reason not to. This guy made his life way harder than it needs to be. Don't bother sanding first. Bondo first then block sand then run pink bodyfiller over the voids and give it another pass. Primer then finish spray. Done.
really beautiful ! looks like a part of anything which already exists ! cool, got the ideas thank you!
Looks great, thanks for sharing! Does this method add any strength to the print? What would be the best way to strengthen a PLA print in post-processing?
For increased strength to PLA parts, I have applied thin coats of well mixed 2-part epoxy using small art brush. This is a quick method to get a nice glossy paintable finish.
Oh and use .12 that is one of the magic numbers for layer height
Look at the Prusa calculator for that. My printer has 0.02 mm single steps. So the default in some slicers of 0.15 mm is at a half step. Boo. Also verify that your steps per mm is an integer. Some printers have something like 400.18 steps per mm calibration by default. Go with 400 in that case. So requesting .12 mm isn't getting an integer number of steps on the motor. I started experimenting with increments of 4 steps, so that the motor will always stop on the same phase. So for me that equates to 0.08, 0.16, 0.32 as the valid 4 step increments.
I really love that look at the end, but lets be honest: If you know your print settings and get them perfect, a finish is not needed anymore most of the time. Not because of invisible layer lines (they are still visible) but because the 3d printed look is very nice.
Beautiful technique! Definitely time-consuming, but it does open up possibilities for creating real gift-quality objects.
This Stand was a gift, so i want it to looks better - without printed layers. It not good for every print because it takes time :)
your finish is superb, can tell you took your time with it!! :)
Just dip it in a bucket of glue to fill in cracks haha
I watched a video that involved lightly coating a print in epoxy, and it came out looking smooth and glossy
This is why I'm buying an SLA printer. No sanding.
Watch this and then tell me SLA requires no sanding. th-cam.com/video/J7njc7HciTg/w-d-xo.html
*Everything requires sanding or polishing if you want a good finish.*
Really nice finish!!! Wow!!!!
This solves the reported problem with painting directly to the plastic, as depending on its porosity, it will cause the paint to just run down the piece and not stick to it. For those who have ever worked with car body repair and polishing will feel at home with this tip.
I got it already more than a year and everything looks like new
The one not simple way to make your 3d printed parts looks Amazing.
Good work tho, I have experimented incrementing temperature for more sticking of the layers and incrementing the extrusion percentage so the outer wall is thicker than it should, this way you have more clearance to work and there's a uniform layer to hit. Then just sandpaper till you don't care anymore.
The title says "Simple way" ??? ;-)
Simple, but super time consuming
just polish.
very simple.
...what part of it is hard?
Never seen someone move that fast before. Very impressive!
Perfect, thanks man!
Nice, but wouldn't call it 'the simple way' , for lots of us it take to much time ;)
Simple i mean more like easy. Its not so hard to do that, but like u said it takes some time ti make it nice
simple means easy, because everyone can do that. Its taking time but the results are really good
You can pretty much skip the wood filler and just use filler primer multiple times. Spray it, sand it, spray it, sand it and repeat until desired smoothness is reached. This is not too much time, you can probably do the post processing in an hour not counting the drying of the primer and paint.
simple is not usually the fastest way; fastest is usually the expensive way (like buying fillers, usin polysmooth filament + nebulizer, etc)
But its really simple
Should be called 'the thorough way'
you’ve done a man's job, sir! 👍
The final result is quite nice indeed. The hard work was worth the result.
Print time + Polish time = RIP
Print time + Polish time = Craftsmanship.
When does the simple part start?
You probably missed it
Simple, not easy, nor quick, simple tools, simple techniques.
It's stupid simple. It takes a while, but the only thing simpler than this would be hitting the print with a rock
Very cool! The end result was really fantastic looking. Subscribed :)
Soberb!!! Excellent job, man!!!
Respekt, Du hast viel Zeit und Fleiss in Dein Werkstück investiert. Dafür fehlt mir die Geduld. 👍🏻
Viel danke :)
Plot twist. He doesn't own headphones.
Simple and brilliant. I'll never pull it off because of patience issues. But very nice. In case I might actually try... is the type of woodfiller important?
I spent a teenage summer wet sanding a Harley orange Rupp 3 wheeler.
I just got a cheep 3d printer, and it hasn't dawned on me to fill and wet sand them. I'm gunna give it a try.
Thanks
This video could have taken less than one minute :Intro 10 secs, print 10 secs, sand 10 secs, fill 10 secs, sand 10 secs, paint 9 secs ! Done
ok next one will be 8sec long
It demonstrates how long a tedious this "simple" process is. Get your printer setup better, print in ABS and vapour smooth takes a lot less of my time.
"после сборки обработать напильником"..
Exactly what I though
Thanks I will try it out to a more complex 3D model and tell you how it came out.
Is the spray filler you used at 5:23 also a wood filler material?
Great idea but it ain't that simple
well it actually is simple, just takes some time. There isnt really anything not simple about dragging a piece of sandpaper across plastic
"simple"
Yeah, this is pretty simple. Sanding and filling. Takes less than an hour to do.
As someone who’s really invested themselves into 3D printing these last few months to improve my props, I will tell you that this is indeed one of the simplest and most effective ways of getting a smooth and gorgeous surface. Only other method that beats it in simplicity is using resin, but unless you got the area and weather advantage, you’ll be stuck waiting for the odds to be in your favor.
Simple tings can also be hella time consuming
good job. i need some filler, it's hard to see how much time it takes, but the filler is a great idea, for smoothing out the prints. and sanding ofc
Awesome! Thanks for that!
Ain't Nobody Got Time For That!
Get some upgrades and the setting right.
i can print it much better, but in this video i want to show that even from bed quality part u can do something amazing
Ofcourse you canget finer prints but will take a long time to print also . And with an FDM printer you will Always have some parts that need to be cleaned up like in this video .. even with resin printers. No matter what settings you have . If you think otherwise.. then show us
oh my god, even the fast forwarded parts are unbearably slow
Amazing job, you demonstrated that 3d printing has real potential
Thanks
Excelent work! Beautiful finish!