Proof Cents - What to Look For With Proof Coins
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ต.ค. 2022
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Ben The Coin Geek
Old Pueblo Coin
The squared off rim is the key for identifying a proof. I couldn't agree more!
When you've looked at enough coins a proof will almost be immediately apparent and you can dismiss coins that aren't almost instinctively. That said it's also good to be able to give specific reasons. Thanks, Ben!
Most people don't have the luxury of having seen so many that they can immediately recognize an old proof, especially without having one to compare side-by-side. Even some dealers have trouble and need to ask for help.
That’s copper. Looks like a million when just minted but it doesn’t stay shiny for long. I have quit with copper but I’m all in on silver.
Thank you for sharing information
Great video Ben. When I started collecting in the '60s, we all pretty much started with the Whitman books. Nobody knew any better.
Good show.
Um wow. What a great topic on Proofs. In fact you just solved a mystery for me Ben. I have a recently purchased raw unc BN to just barely RB 1900 Indian cent. And I just could not figure out why it looked the way it did. It looked "too nice" and if was wondering if maybe it was a fake? I have little to no experience with proof coins. Well I looked, and the cent has the rim double or "fin" of a proof on about 75% of the rim, so Duh, I have a toned proof and did not even know it. I think it was the color that caused me to think it was just a nice unc coin and not a proof, but the edge was just too square and puzzled me. Thank you Ben!
That being a (fake) '36 proof set, it's worth mentioning that a genuine set is extremely unlikely to be sold raw, and more likely to be faked due to the scarcity and high value of each individual coin. It would really suck to plunk down $10k on a set of Dremelled business strikes! Thanks for another great video. 👍
Great videography and helpful information. Thanks--
Very informative. Thanks!
Excellent overview of proof cent diagnostics
Another excellent educational video Ben!
Super helpful!
Big like 59 my friend!
Thanks for the video!
Wanted to say thank you I had a 1945 cent I thought was a proof but I was able to tell it was not from your help
Thanks for the education Ben
Thanks for your excellent information video on identifying Lincoln cent proofs! Your tips about looking for the wider and double rim lip were great points. The other great tip was looking for the extremely sharp rims on the proofs compared to the rounded ones on regular cents.
Hopefully, you can do a video on natural and unnatural coloring on Lincoln cents. I have some early teens UNC cents that I'm having trouble determining whether they were maybe dipped or lightly cleaned years ago. I've shown them to some dealers and gotten mixed opinions. I am thinking of sending them to PCGS, but don't want to waste money if they've been cleaned. There are no hairline telltale scratches, just a slightly different red color than most I've seen.
I got a proof 1983s cent in change last week. Don't usually check shiny cents, but it was obvious it was different.
It's not unusual for dealers to dump such individual coins into circulation if they are imperfect. I myself have spent old proof coins from my collection that have PVC damage or ugly spots or toning.
That 1936 half would be worth thousands, even in a low proof grade like PR63. Interestingly, sometimes even proof examples don't have full strikes. So even if Liberty's left hand is incomplete, it COULD still be a proof. I'd expect a proof to have sharp, defined edges and a wide and thick rim.
As a coin roll hunter I run into circulated proof coins. Often enough that I have doubts that they came from broken up proof sets. Once the US mints a coin, it is put in the books at face value (seigniorage). Destroying a coin is a loss of face value. I have always wondered if the mint puts imperfect proof coins into circulation. I would make sense financially and explain why I see more of them then I think I should.
Great video as always Ben
Been buying a lot of album collections recently and investing In Acetone, verdicare, and if you can find it anymore Blue ribbon pays big dividends. The replacement for blue ribbon is decent if you can’t or don’t want to spend $250 on 25 ml of blue ribbon and it’s about $30-40.
My most recent album collections had several books of Indian Lincoln cents and V and Buffalo nickels
There were key dates including an 09-S VDB about G/VG details with a rim ding which has been at pcgs since September 10 for authentication (it’s due variety 2 and I’m 99% sure authentic). I should have them back by February .. even though the high value coins like the 09-S VDB. An 1885 nickel and 95-O dime were sent regular the mid grade mid value stuff was sent economy which is up to a whopping 95 business day turnaround
It’s become laughably absurd
I second the verdicare purchase. It's not going to "fix" a coin, but it has helped a few I have look better and hopefully to stay as they are and not degrade.
@@markustg09 It’s definitely not fixing. It’s restoration and removing verdigris and corrosion which will ultimately destroy the coin by eating into the metal
Just remember a little goes a long way and if you use the end of a Q-tip and roll it versus wiping or dab I’ve also used the tip of an incense stick call for the removal of caked on PVC or corrosion
The incense stick is softer than a toothpick and has enough firmness to remove bonded pvc that acetone won’t quite neutralize
Years ago I spent like 80 bucks on a 1945 unc set I never seen a set like that ever again but I did end up selling each coin individually so the older coin sets are suspect buyer beware.
Does that apply for the nickels and dimes as well?
If it was a proof that someone had polished would the squared rim be rounded over from the polishing?
That’s copper. Looks like a million when just minted but it doesn’t stay shiny for long. I have quit with copper but I’m all in on silver.
Are 2020s pennies wide or close AM
Genial
Would you happen to be interested in buying any? If so what are you or anyone else looking for
Comment down below.
This doesn't make much cents to me. It's not damage, it's toning enhancement and a lot of coingeeks will pay extra for it. The toning occurred naturally over time by being stored in contact with something like a coin folder. BTW, circular scratches isn't proof a coin has been polished/cleaned. That assumption sounds a lot like what PCGS assumes to limit handing out a solid grade. The scratching to coins is more likely caused from normal wear from the coin being carried in someone's pocket. If PCGS takes issue with the scratches, they guess on the side that the coin was cleaned.
A lot of Morgan dollars have hairline scratches running vertically. I've even seen some MS 67s that have them. But they're very light and only visible from some angles and with good light. I try to find them without them though.
How to sell my old coins to many coins I have,any buyer from the Philippines
Proofs double struck...??
Any buyer of old coins to many coins for sale from the Philippines
So many people selling proof pennies that are not proof pennies.they are just some good looking circulated pennies.just like the b.u.coins out there.a site is selling some that are clearly not.
WHY ARE YOU SHOWING ME ENVIRONMENTALLY DAMAGED COINS??? AAARRRR! The proof is in the pudding! Square rims are a good diagnostic for proofs. The squareness is on all three sides of the rim's surface. On the 36 set, only the dime and quarter look to have the proof square rim.