New drive for the Mini Lathe - Making Poly-V pulleys
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
- I'm upgrading the Mini Lathes drive and electric at the moment. For the new motor I bought a pulley which I thought will fit to the old tooth belt. But it doesn't and instead the new drive runs incredible rough and rattles crazily.
For this reason I planned to change the drive to Poly-V belt and pulleys as they run naturally smoother than tooth belts.
It isn't that easy to find the Poly-V belts in this small sizes. First I preferred the smallest profile PH but this isn't available in the right size so I had to change to the next bigger PJ profile. For this I had to make two pulleys which I show in this video.
I hope you enjoy this little episode.
Feel free to comment if you have questions or suggestions. And if you like the content, consider to like and subscribe :)
Thank you very much!
00:00 Intro
00:22 Making the bigger pulley blank
01:26 Making the smaller pulley blank
02:51 Testfit and little Poly-V excursion
03:39 Turning an arbor for further clamping the blanks
04:02 Finding the right tool for the V-grooves
04:26 Turning the V-grooves
06:02 Slotting the keyways
07:01 Final installation
Making a dial for Mini Lathes carriage: www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ivp5... Adjustable Carriage Stop: www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpWPT... Mini Lathe compound angle modification: www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdkoT... Mini Lathe tailstock fine adjustements: • Mini Lathe tailstock m... - - Mini Lathe bearings for the compound slide: • Bearings for the mini ... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
7:34 I guess the nut is still loose! 😉
But anyway, nice job!
haha:D yes it is. Have to properly tighten it. Thanks for the hint ;)
Nice. If you needed a tensioner, just make a flat roller to press on the flat side of the belt. Doesn't even need to be spring loaded. A light touch with a tension roller would even out any belt flops or vibration. Gonna remember this one. Think I'll need it myself. Thanks.
Thanks for your comment. Either I go this way with a tensioning roller or I just install something to pull the motor down and tension the belt that way. Not sure yet :)
A spring tensioner idler won’t hold pressure when in reverse
@@claas90017 Yes, I installed a screw tensioner in the meantime, which pulls the whole motor down via a screw and a nut.
@@claas90017 god catch
LOL! OMG! That sound comparison in the end, there...! XD
Great idea for improving your mini-lathe. Much easier to make poly-vee pulleys on the lathe than the existing cogged pulleys.
Thanks! Yes, the poly-v pulleys are relatively easy to make by yourself :)
They are cogged for a reason
Great video, quite ingenious how you made that key spline. It's great to see how you use the lathe itself to create a better lathe. Thanks for the update!
Thank you very much for your comment and kind words! :)
Yup done many a keyway like this ...guys saying no no need to buy a broach..me nope k dobe
You're the first hobby machinist I subscribed to love all of your work
Thank you so much! I really do appreciate that!
A very talented Lady.
Smooth like a good cup of coffee ☕ 👌
Nicely done,
Cheers
;) Thank you!
Nice work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Thank you very much for sharing! Feel free to share the latest video on finishing the new cross slide dial as well :) Thanks!
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Schaublinisation, good one. I've added it to my YT video list for forum posting. Let me know if you want a free forum account and you can post your vids on the forum whenever you want. We have lots of YTers on board.
A great upgrade!
Thanks!
Great job, thank you brother. You are so talented
Thank you very much!
I want you to know you just inspired me to do this to my lathe.
Thank you very much! I really do appreciate that! :)
Отличная идея. К тому же, алюминиевые шкивы вместо пластиковых - это плюс.
Perfect job
Thank you!
oh i'm going to be watching the hell outta your videos!! i just got a mini lathe, i haven't ran a lathe in many many years most of what i learned has been forgotten so thanks for your videos!!
Thank you so much for your kind comment! Happy to hear, you like my videos! Good luck for your projects.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks;)
Great stuff! Keep it keep 🤙🏻
Thanks :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter -just a heads up. I know I had the settings to notify me of all your videos and it was turned off. I’ve heard of settings getting changed by TH-cam 🤷🏼♂️ just thought I’d say something. I really enjoy your work and video.
Nice work (as usual).
Thank you very much ;)
Nice job
Thanks!
excellet work .
Thanks!
I like how the end of the video has the nut backed itself off and spun free, with the little star washer continuing to spin. Nylon locknut, loctite, better washer selection, deforming the top of the nut, or staking
Thanks for your comment. Yes, the nut was just handtightened for this test. I tighten it better;)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter YOU THOUGHT WE WOULD NOT NOTICE, DIDN'T YOU?!?!
I honestly have gotten in the habit on stuff like that of centerpunching the face of a nut, close to the threads, to add some resistance to it backing out. Like a half-assed staking. I use my HSS Springtools punch, and it makes a perfectly controllable dent. I have so many auto centerpunches, but man that springtools blew me away. It just seems to do more than a normal auto. That being said for normal I just use my 818
Cogged belt is fine. Using it for 5 years now , its quiet and better torque transfer.
very nice man
Thank you very much!
You always do such great work. I had thought about upgrading the belt on my own lathe but have wondered if I should wait to change out the motor for more amps/torque. There was a beginning note about your dis-satisfaction with the stock set-up. Was it just the noise or was there a performance issue that pushed your decision. Thoughts?
I'm sure you noticed, but just in case you didn't, I don't want to _not_ say anything; the nut backed it's self off the motor shaft at the end of the clip.
GJ on the pullies. I'll probably be taking a stab at a similar project in a bit!
Thanks for your comment! Yes, i noticed that too :) I think I had just handtightened the nut at this moment. I still have to mill some wrench flats to the pulley to make tightening easier. Some day I'll do it... :)
Hello, first of all congratulations on the work you do.
I wanted to know if in addition to the pulleys and belts you also changed the spindle shaft bearings.
I noticed that it has no vibrations, it is very smooth and precise.
I ask because I have to buy a mini lathe.
Hi and thank you for your comment! To this day the lathe spindle is original. I didn't change the bearings yet. But I am planning to install different bearings in the future. There will be a video about this topic in the future.
Very nice. Nice job on broaching your own keyway! Did you grind your own cutter to do that?
Thank you very much! I used high speed steel parting blades. You can purchase them. The one in the video is a 3mm wide tool. With a little bit of sharpening on a stone it worked quite well.
Parting tool. Sure! Didn't see it at first. All my years...didn't even think of that!
T'es un malade de taper au maillet les pièces sur le mandrin!
Where’s the follow up video about the motor upgrade?!?! Currently embarking on this same swap and would love to see some more insight from you. Love your videos, keep up the great work!
Hi, thanks for your comment! There will be a follow up video on the new motor when I'm done with everything, the electrics etc. At the moment I'm waiting for electronic parts to get shipped. Everything is delayed these days. So there will be a few other videos first to come. Sorry, you have to wait a few weeks;)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter no worries, love the content regardless! I actually just finished up my diy mini mill using a consew csm1000 sewing machine servo motor. I used the base and xy table from an sx2p mini mill, the headstock is from an LMS mini lathe, I chose to use the one without the high and low gears. I built my own column and used linear guide rails and a ball screw for the z axis. Also made a power feed for the z axis and x axis! Originally I chose timing belt pulleys but after watching your video and hearing how loud they are I’ve decided to switch it to the multi-v/poly-v style pulleys and belt.
Now just have to remember to film the projects I do so I can share them with the world like you’re doing!
I'm looking for silent way to drive headstock with servo. Do you think that if we keep the cutting forces low, can we use poly v belt instead of trigger belt to cut threads?
Hi, a poly v belt is capable of transmitting quite some force. The wider the belt, the more force it can transmit. In my case the belt has 4 rips and it is absolutely no problem to cut threads or to drill with large drills. Only in the video about the new on-off lever I accidentally started the spindle with the chuck key in the chuck which blocks the spindle and causes the belt to slip. But that was better than ripping something else apart. So I think no worries about switching to a poly v belt.
How did you lock the spindle when cutting the keyway? Anything fancy or just a wedge somewhere?
Hi, nothing fancy for locking at the moment :) I used just a piece of wood as a wedge between the chuck and the headstock. But I want to install a proper spindle lock some day. Just have no good idea how to do. So if you have one, let me know ;)
thanks for the education
Thanks for your comment!
I busted some gear in my mini lathe's carriage trying to slot a steel gear like this the other day. I guess aluminum is fine but steel is too much. Does it feel like a lot of force when you're doing that slotting operation?
Hi and thanks for your comment. You are right, I'm a little worried every time I cut keyways with the bedslide. In alumium I think it's ok. The tool is only 3mm wide and with little steps it feels quite ok. But my next project is a keyway cutting attachment which gets clamped in the tool holder and cuts the keyway with a hand lever instead of moving the carriage ;)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter yeah I was using a similarly sized, 1/8" piece of hss. Thing seemed to flex a bit. A hand fed lever would definitely be more slick. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
How does the lathe run now with the Poly-V on it? I'm considering going this route myself, thanks for the videos. Your work you put out on this lathe is really beautiful quality, and what spray you use? WD-40? Thank you
It runs very smooth since the conversion to poly-v belts. I would do it again. And yes, that was WD-40
👍👍
Ohhh! What is that tool called that you measured the hole with? Looks like some sort of calliper
Can you share what the outer diameter of your two pulleys were and the belt size and type you used? I am planning on doing this mod and knowing what works well for you would save doing it by trial and error. Thank you.
Excellent video dear! Could you share an Amazon or Ebay link for the engine you bought? Is it brushless? Or failing that, the technical description to be able to search for it on Google? Greetings from Argentina!
Brushless Servo Motor
👍👍👍
hi, very intersting video for me, i just have a question i had the same problem as you,i bought some cutting tools for my lathe ,but when instaled they are too high to cut correctly,around 4 milimeters... i saw that you had modified your head to accept this kind of size, can you tell me how you did it?
Hi and thanks for your comment! Your cutting tools are probably to big for the lathe. Originally the lathe accepts 8mm cutting tools (8x8mm). When your tool is 4mm too high, you probably have 12x12mm size tools. I milled down my toolpost to accept 10mm tooling, so I took 2mm off the toolpost. I made a video on this modification quite a while ago "Short project milling down the toolpost" or something like this. You find it on my channel.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter thanks for the answer, it s ok yesterday i drill it, now the tool is at the correct height and it s cutting well beter
hi great job . is there data for spacing the v grooves thanks john
Thanks! Yes, there are fixed dimensions on the belts. For PJ sized belts the spacing is 2,34mm between the grooves.
Ich hatte mich geschon gefragt wann das erste Video dazu kommt. :-)
Kannst du mir sagen welchen Außendurchmesser das Riemenrad am Motor nun hat?
hehe :D (Zerspanungsbude?) Das Riemenrad am Motor hat knapp 25mm Außendurchmesser (Rohmaterial 25mm). Fühlt sich mit dem PJ Riemen jetzt schon machbar an. Die Riemenspannung muss ich noch in den Griff bekommen. Der Riemen läuft jetzt noch etwas zu labbrig. Das Große Rad hat knapp 45mm.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Dankeschön! Genau. :) Bin schon gespannt auf kommende Videos.
That lock washer spun behind the [hold down] nut on the motor shaft after the motor stopped spinning.
Yes, thanks ;) The nut was just handtight for the test. I have to secure it firmly.
Hi, thanks for your video, where I can find information about your motor? Thanks
The motor is a 550W brushless servo motor for industrial sewing machines. The brand is vevor. You can find it on ebay for example. I will make a video on that upgrade including some electrical stuff. But that needs a few more weeks.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter thank a lot, I'm wait your video! 👍💪
Which new motor have you used please. I am just about to change mine, so your video might be very timely!
Thanks
Mitch
I used a brushless sewing machine motor with 550W. You can find them from vevor on ebay for example. They have a controler box included and as far as I can tell work quite well. I will make a video on that hole project once finished.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter
Thanks, I will start searching for a similar motor, and maybe wait to see your video before I start trying to fit it.
Mitch
Now that you've had the new motor for a while , what do you think if it ? any problems? is it powerful enough ?
im looking at doing the same to mine .
@@russellmccullum4623
Russell,
Sorry, got sidetracked with several other projects so have not yet tackled the motor. Still intend to do it so will keep in touch.
Mitch
nice work , but since the both pulley are small you may experience belt slippage
Thanks. I thought about that too. The first thing I need is a proper way of tensioning the belt. I assume with the right tension it won't slip hopefully
Two or one like opposite rollers will do the trick= longer belt conection on the small and big whell ( 8 shape)
How do you lock the chuck when cutting the keywways?
At the moment very poorly by wedging a piece of wood between the lathe chuck and the spindle housing which kind of locks the chuck in place :)
Do you run your lathe in mostly hi or lo gear?
Hi and thanks for your comment. I mostly run the lathe in hi gear (high rpm range). For thread cutting and drilling with larger drills or knurling I switch in low gear. So I'm happy to have both options. A fixed gear would not work well for me.
⭐🙂👍!
You might want to add a belt tensioner running on the smooth side of the belt to help against slippage.
Yes, I need some way of tensioning the belt. I'm not sure if I choose a wheel which presses against the belt or just add a way of pulling the motor downwards for tensioning the belt. Prefer the second way at the moment.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter without seeing how the motor is mounted, it might be possible to cut or file slots so the motor can be pushed down, then tighten the bolts holding it in place.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter If the motor shaft is supported by ball or roller bearings, no problem. If it's supported by bushings, excessive tension on the belt could shorten their life. Also, belt tensioner is way easier to keep adjusted.
Where do you get your blades for your lathe
Where did you get the 40 degree angle tool?
It was a set of 8x8mm hss lathe tools which included this 40 degree tool. The set was included when I purchased the machine. But you find these sets online as well.
0:19 man, how can it be so bad... 7:30 Now we're talking... 7:34 Uhu.. the nut got loose
What is that motor you are using?
The motor is a 550W brushless servor motor for sewing machines. Your find them on ebay with controller box included. I will make a video on it in the future.
link for motor u used and link for belt.
Hello, you would tell me the type of engine you have and initials? Tank you
It is a 550W brushless sewing machine motor. Link: www.ebay.de/itm/202784931615?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2763.l2649
@@WeCanDoThatBetter make a video where you explain how you mounted that engine!
Oh my goodness please tighten that nut, I'm about 80% certain I saw it spin after the lathe stopped
:D Yes, I tightened it afterwards. Just forgot about it in the hurry of film making.
How do i find the dimensions for the L section Poly V pulley?? No luck so far🙁
What do you mean exactly? The big pulley is about 50mm in diameter, the small pulley for the motor is about 25mm in diameter.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter i mean, what's The V grooves dimensions of the Poly V belts.
@@KamalSingh-ny9vw - they're either 2.34mm or 3.56mm
How about showing a brief glimpse of the finished part first so I won’t have to skip to the end to see what you’re making. Not everyone knows what a new drive for a mini lathe is. Thanks.
Thanks for your comment. I will consider this. Normally my thumbnails show the finished product. Also here, you can see the finished pulleys in the thumbnail. In addition to that the title tells what you have to expect from the video, making poly-v pulleys.
nice, especially approve of the non functional beauty cuts
Thank you very much :)!
I swear i saw the nut loose try some cup washers
Yes, well observed ;) I fixed that in the meantime. The nut wasn't tightened properly.
I question the practice of hammering the workpiece against the chuck face when chucking it. I've worked for 30 years in a machine shop and we never did this. Your starting stock seems to have been cut with a bandsaw. A bandsaw is not a precision tool. The cut is 1) rough, and 2) not guaranteed to be at 90 degrees to the roundstock axis ( and often isn't). You are arbitrarily deciding that you will use this rough cut surface to reference all machining operations against. Although the circumference of the bar stock is also a non-precision surface ( it is not ground drill rod) I would sooner trust THAT surface than the rough cut end of the bar stock. I would sooner let the chuck jaws align properly with the circumference of the round stock and ignore the end-cut surface. It means tightening the jaws slowly and gently as they touch the round stock, and then wiggle the stock within the jaws as you tighten them to make sure the bar has the freedom to seat evenly within all 3 jaws right up until the moment of binding. All while allowing a sixteenth or so space between the end of the stock and the chuck face, to make sure this surface does not influence the positioning of the setup. If you want to do better, then use a longer piece of stock then necessary, face and clean up one end of the stock, then chuck it from the clean end and start from there. For the wide flat workpiece ( larger pulley) I can see how your practice may be defensible, as it it hard to reference to the circumference on such a stubby length of stock. But for the longer aspect ration part, it is sub-optimal. This is something I saw a newbie do 3 years ago on a video, and then others seem to have copied him.
Hi and thanks for your comment and feedback. I think, you are right.
1 Second in, and I'm already laughing at the stupid *clown beep noise* joke.
haha :D Thanks;) Happy to hear!
PJ or PK belts?
PJ
Can you provide details about the motor, wiring, and speed controller you are using for this upgrade? Thank you!
What motor is that?
Hi, that is a brushless servor motor for industrial sewing machines. You can find them on ebay. I made a video on installing it: th-cam.com/video/iiIJCVngs1E/w-d-xo.html
The nut holding the smaller pulley is loose @7:32
you still need to add gears for torque . . I don't think the torque of this motor is enough
Hi, there are gears in the headstock. You can switch between low gear and high gear. They are mostly for getting a lower rpm range. The motor itself has really a lot of torque, so its definitely strong enough for the machine.
Minature lathes are not designed with heavy enough bearings for hard hammering like u do
Im frist ❤️
Like, Sr
please stop hitting the the piece into the chuck not good for bearings
Hi, thanks for your comment. I will keep that in mind. These were very light hits with a relatively small hammer. I wanted to be sure, that the workpiece sits properly against the back of the chuck.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter sounded harder on video
@@WeCanDoThatBetter If you have taper rollers fitted then little taps like that aren't going to do a thing. It may reduce the life of the original ball bearings,but they are junk anyway and will need changing at some point.
@@ferrumignis Thanks for your comment! Currently there are still the crappy ball bearings installed. But changing to roller bearings is totally on my list :) I just have to install all the new electrics and motor first.