@@davidstevens7809 you missed the point of the conversation entirely. It was about the decline in cost per watt in 30-40 years. There was no consumer class d amps when the 1k watt barrier was broken.
Honestly didn't think it'd do as well. We already all know folks will be running 4 guage CCA on stock electrical if they barely have to drop a bill on the amp. Excellent video as always Dwiz
@Kswis lol same exact thing I started to think after the shock of being able to order these U Series full range Soundqubed amps beyond dirt cheap! I think maybe that is why they make you check a box on the site when placing the order acknowledging that you are aware stock electrical is a no no, and then to be double sure they include a letter in each amp so when you open it you get reminded again not to run the amp on stock electrical. I think Soundqubed was smart in taking those precautions. Personally I got a U1-3000 (to put away with many others I have collected) & a U4-500 that I plan on trying to find the perfect match of drivers for to really boost my midrange soundstage.
Yea all copper got way too expensive way too quick. For daily bumpage you don’t need it and can do CCA. Honestly ain’t no one needs this amp unless you doing db Drag competitions. I hate those hex screws. They strip so easily (not the threads, the heads!). Bring back Philips head. Also those kickers could barely handle 300 rms, how they still move?!
@@hardtymz2517 I definitely agree with you on copper getting too expensive, though it had never been cheap atleast not in my lifetime. But copper has went through the roof over the last year. hardtymz2517 I got admit though about 3 years ago I've started using all OFC wire for everything when I'm doing car audio (unless I've got room to use 2/0 ga CCA then I'll use CCA). If it doesn't benefit me then oh well, it's my $ wasted BUT I have had no issues so far (Knock on wood). Very solid power to my amp, solid grounds, no odd wiring issues I've had to trace. I've even been buying tinned ofc when it's available in the specific brand that I'm buying. Could companies had some killer sales on ofc around a year ago so I bought four 50' spools of tinned ofc during one sale (2 red spools & 2 black spools). Then D4S ran a killer sale on all their Certified Basshead wire so I bought 4 spools of their 2/0 gauge CCA (2 red spools & 2 black spools). So I should be good on power & ground wire for a while. Rather have it & not need it. I'm hoping copper wire & lots of other things will go back to their previous prices when things steady out but I fear that will not happen.
I run two of the u1-1500 amps (one on each sub) with upgraded electronics for 1.5 years now daily with no problems. Love these little amps under my truck seat
No joke, got a plan in my head for a 150+dB budget build in my head now. Back in the day 150dB was insane, I believe at one point the world record was like 153. Now you can do it budget.
Thats CRAZY I literally left a comment a day or 2 back asking about this series and big D DELIVERS thanks for the vids and reviews man. My main source of info right here
Curious about longevity and overall SQL, but the fact that it was at $119 for a bit and delivers beyond 3000 watts is incredible. Back in the 90's, I remember seeing junk that claimed they were doing 1.5k+ on the cheap and the RMS was probably no more than 500 "unclean" watts. There were only a handful of reputable players in the game that could deliver true 1k+ amps, and you were paying $1/watt or much more depending where and what you were looking for. Considering inflation and everything else over time, the game has changed a lot in terms of watt/dollar.
These video are masterpieces created with perfection. I been watching these videos for 4 plus years and each video is the best education of audio that you can learn. I'm getting one of these amps for Christmas this year. This is the kind of amp that you need to have plenty of watts yet setting your gain properly to not burn or blow your subwoofers and running at the proper level you can play this amp for thousands of hours and this amplifier will never overheat. These amps were engineered by amazing people to help give the watts for creating sound.
Wow I’m just amazed on how far we came and still continuing on audio technology!! Pretty soon we go have a amp the size of a Nintendo switch that push out 2k lol
@@chaseleim4773 Exactly You've got to make them bullet-proof. The mobile environment is brutal just as a baseline. Add in some serious thumpage while operating w/marginal electrical systems; recipe for disaster. These amps must be made to a wickedly robust build spec.
I came upon the sale and the UI-3000 was sold out. So went with the UI-5000 and the bought 2 of the UI 4 channel amps. Best Deals I've gotten in a long time.
@@wal I was so impressed (previously had Hifonics BRX 2600.1D & BXX 800.4 powering 2-12" Soundqubed Subs/4 - D4S-60 6.5" speakers) I went back a few days ago to buy another one...but sale was over 😔.
Thank you so much for testing this amp. I bought the 5000 watt model last year when they came out. The worst part is the bass knob. I haven’t had any problems with it, but I didn’t use it very long because my pre order came through on the CAB 45
CAB 22 & 45 amps are both beasts from what all I've heard. I ordered the 3000w Soundqubed (have no use for it right now but I can't pass up a sale like that) & the U4-500 amp. Can't wait to find some legit speakers to hook up to this 4 channel Soundqubed amp!
I bought the U1-5000 and U4-500. The 5000 is pushing and I've only run it at 4 and 2 ohm loads. That bass knob is pure trash though. I use the one off my LOC which is pretty mid honestly.
@@wal you really need to run for POTUS! You'd have a lot of people backing you the minute you tossed your hat in the ring! You'd have my vote fo' sho (which in all honesty would be insane considering I do not know your view points, position on ideas, etc but I get the feeling we'd see 👁 2 👁 on things).
Had you told me in 1999 that in about 20 years, I'd be able to buy an amp that does 3k rms for 150 bucks, but that's not all, the foot print of that amp would be no bigger than your hand, I wold have never believed you..
Does it work? Geezz... You keep bringing up metal vs plastic bass knobs. I need you to do tests on bass knobs my boi. Like fr, you bring it up so much, it warrants a thorough analysis.
Ur brave pushing full bridge at .5! Just smoked a brand new jp23v2 after 10 minutes at .5. looking for a fill in amp to pushy Avatar stu 12, looking at a 5k fullbridge but scared ASF of em
See Playlist of 3kW Full Bridge Amps: bit.ly/3yCofdM Check for availability: soundqubed.com/product/3000-w-full-range/ *Shop for Similar amps* (Amazon/D4S Affiliate links): Taramps HD3000: amzn.to/3AF8xkY Taramps Smart 3: amzn.to/3casWUU NVX XAD42: amzn.to/3PbN9rA DS18 GFX-3K1: amzn.to/3yxyUXd Sundown Audio SFB Amplifiers: lddy.no/1c5al Soundstream TXP1.6000D: amzn.to/3uH8Pnr Video Index: 0:00 Intro 0:48 SoundQubed U1-3000 1:07 Unboxing the Amp 1:51 Features and Specs 3:32 Amp Dyno Tests 7:25 Subwoofer Tests 8:54 What's Inside? 9:36 Pro's and Con's 10:26 Final Thoughts 11:04 EXTRAS _DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases_
I had the U1-8000 and it went out when I blew a subwoofer on it. It still turns on but its not giving a single to my other working subwoofer. Soundqubed replaced my amp with a brand new amplifier. Soundqubed is a very good brand and if you want this amp to last get good electrical and try not blowing subwoofers on this amp.
Yeah, but didn't Soundqubed replaced it with a brand new one even though they didn't have to? While the sound quality isn't as good as some of the Korean built amplifiers it is definitely better than the Taramps MD series a lot of people run nowadays. I've ran this amp as well as the Sundown SFB 3k on Fi subwoofers and they sounded better than the Taramps. Sound quality is very good for its price range.
@@fd1596 yeah your right my U1-8000 wasn't the worst sound quality. It was very good. Just edit what I said about the sound quality. Soundqubed is a very good brand😀
@@RyanBassForLife Yeah, no problem. Just trying to give credit where it's due. I think maybe the sound quality issues you may have had came from running the amp into clipping, or just pushing the subs too hard beyond their mechanical limits. That U-8000 was definitely too much amp for your HDX3s. You might want to consider getting a Sundown SFB remote gain knob with clip light. I've tried it on the U series amplifiers and they work.
I would be nice if you could start adding some more tests, like noise floor, turn on thump, frequency response like sweep or pink noise electrical output reading. Power is a thing but if the amp is hissing as hell or distort anything higher than 10khz, that's not ideal... Continue the great work, you have became the reference for amp testing on TH-cam.
Thats not too bad. The bass knob may be a deal breaker for me. I am loving the clip light on my JP23 bass knob. I know there are some budget amps now as well, I think the Black Diamond amp review had one. When you really want to go full tilt it is great to have, I don't think I could go back. Then again, getting 3k amps at $120 a pop is hard to resist.
@Murray Sheckleberg why don't you get a bass remote with clip light (Soundqubed even sells them on their site for their other amps) & see if it works. I'm leaning towards it probably would work considering the U1 series amps have clip lights on the amp itself. Therefore it has the ability to detect clipping so it probably has the ability to send it to clip light via remote. I could be wrong but I planned on trying it sometime myself since I have several bass remotes with clip lights that I have checked & they each will indeed plug into my U1-3000 that I ordered. Maybe someone will even try this & post about it before I get time to test mine out. I'm thinking they just used the Super cheapo bass remote to keep prices at rock-bottom below their competition. So many bassheads cars less about factory bass remotes because they are choosing to go with fancy ones like 'Slam Pandas' and others.
@@itdoesntmatterwhatyourname6128 The Soundqubed Q series knobs won't work, but the Sundown SFB knobs do work and can be found on eBay for less than $40
I'm in my 89 suburban, one Rockford Fosgate P500.2(?), 2 P2 8 ohm 10s, and 2 more MTX 6000s 8ohms 10s also. Each pair on its own channel wired in parallel, of course. These are my morning news Big D! Installing and listening to audio reviews! Thanks
@Kyle Timmins at the price you mentioned the 8k amp being, the U1-8000 is not any cheaper per watt than the U1-3000. And I'm only guessing here, but Big D probably tested the U1-3000 because he knew more of his viewers either ordered or would be ordering the U1-3000 versus the U1-8000. Personally I'd love to see the U4-500 tested just to see how much over rated power it produces, if any. Though I'd be highly surprised if it put out less than rated as it seems most companies now (especially the budget companies) under rate all of their car audio products. Same business tactics worked for Mopar in the 60s & early 70s & it still works to this day over 45 years later.
When I'm doing system installs. I can't stress it enough either Big D that upgrades to electrical systems are a must with big power pulling amps. You never know when that alternator is going to go out on you on those stock electrical systems.
For a $119 you can’t complain. Makes 3000 watts, nice cheap power as long as you upgraded your electrical. I remember spending around $700 for a Rockford Fosgate punch 250m back in 1997. Made around 700 watts.
For the price it's at you could still throw in the other bass knob on there web sight with a on and clip lights. First 3k under 200$ had to get it to match my 2 hds3.I 12s I got on sale 230$ last year from sound qubed. 500$ total for my 3k build not including electrical and deck that cheap compared to the 90s or a jlw7 👍👌✌️🎶💯🥂
I wanna get this amp or the ampere 2k....I have a 100 amp alt with two batteries and the big 3. Would I be able to run this at 2ohms with My electrical setup?
I have a sfb5000 & bought the Soundqubed U1-3000 & the U4-500. Also have a Taramps Smart3 & md8000. And of course lots of half bridge Korean board amps.
I really don't ubderstand why some people would complain about what a amplifier does at high voltage. It makes me realize that I will get all the power I need and then some at 14.4v - 14.8v.
I try to catch all your amp dynos although I’m not really into car audio much. Most of the amps you test usually give the highest output on the dynamic test for a given impedance load. This one only did that at 1 ohm. On the 2 and 4 ohm loads you measured more power at clipping than with the burst test. I thought maybe the amp was unable to supply the current to the speakers required but was able to do it at minimal impedance. Any thoughts on why?
Thanks for the response. I understand what you are saying. But what baffles me is that on the dynamic burst test it put out less power on the 4 and 2 ohm test than it did on the up to clipping test. On the 1 ohm test it put out more power on the dynamic test than the clipping test as it should and should have also at the 4 and 2 ohm tests but didn’t. As Big D usually states the clipping test at the lowest ohm load is the most brutal test on an amplifier. And it passed that without going into protection. Just wonder how this is possible because electrically it doesn’t make sense if all else is equal.
Soon as I saw the killer deal I bought some of these Soundqubed U Series amps. Then I thought at this cheap of a price I bet Big D will be testing at least one of the new Soundqubed full range amps. I was shocked to see that a company like Soundqubed were having a sale with as low of prices as they did. I realize it was only their new full range amps that were on sale & even then they still didn't run their big 13k on sale, I'm not complaining I can't properly power a 13k right now anyway... I was under the impression that Soundqubed was such a well know name & with brand recognition that they'd never sell their products at that low of a price. Maybe they aren't as well known as I'd thought. Personally I bought the U1-3000, the U4-500 & the AL 250.4 (not its not a Soundqubed amp but I ordered it same day I ordered the Soundqubed amps, the 4 channel Audio Legion amps are beasts! I have 4 of the AL 110.4 amps). I will say in regards to the the Soundqubed U1 series amps, I was VERY surprised at the quality of the tuning pots (knobs for gain, high/low pass etc) as they seem on par & even better than some amps that I've spent a lot more money on. The amp itself overall gave a much more sturdy feel to it & much better look to it than I had expected. In my opinion the Soundqubed U1 amps both look & feel more sturdy then my Sundown sfb amp (even though they may be built in the same exact warehouse to the same standards as each other). The only let downs that I have with the Soundqubed U Series amps is the way too cheap bass remotes (I plan to see if one of my better remotes that has a clip light will work with them since the U1 does have a clip light on the amp) & the fact that the U4 amp actually does not come with a remote, it doesn't even have a spot to connect a remote. Lol I know a bunch of people will say it's a 4 channel amp, you do not need a remote! Well considering its power output being a 4 channel amp one has many different options on what type of of speakers/drivers they will use, including the ability to bridge channels. This little amp truly has the ability to make the mids & or highs Soundstage in the vehicle VERY loud. Much louder than the typical 2 or 4 channel amps that you see on the market!
@@wal any chance you will dyno & review the U4-500 Soundqubed amp? I ordered one of those also, now i have to figure out what speakers (mid/high soundstage) this 4 channel amp will complement well. Thank you for your hardwork & dedication to consistently making great content!
I was eyeing the al110.4 but want to run class AB on my doors so i grabbed an al1600 instead which came in last week to replace my rp1200 sub amp. Then i heard about the soundqubed U series amps and was in shock how inexpensive that much power is going for and from a brand ive actually heard of! Granted they aren’t Korean like the Audio Legion but 3k for even 159 is a steal. I was gonna grab a second al1600 since they are strappable but now im Pretty sure im gonna snag a U 3k Friday. i just cant pass that deal up!
I got a pair of sundown sfb-8000.1D amps for apx 5cents per watt 349.99 each I just dyno them at 79.81% at 1 ohm making 9143w at clip at 14.11v. On 600Ah lifepo4 bank they are only 12 watts apart on dyno. I might make a few tweaks internally to reduce stress at 1 ohm before installing. Also I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that if your using one of these use a dsp to send a clean bass signal to the Amp
@E Dud what could there be to possibly say good about Soundqubed when comparing it to Fosgate??? Seriously other than the affordability of the Soundqubed products idk how you could even put the two brands in the same sentence... You must have always had the cheaper entry level Fosgate gear. Let it be known I'm not even a Fosgate fanboy but I know the difference in true quality versus mass produced budget products. Rockford Fosgate will always be superior to anything Soundqubed will ever dream of making.
@@itdoesntmatterwhatyourname6128 Dont get me wrong I still have all my Fosgate stuff enough for 2 cars stashed away in the closet waiting to go in another car. Alot of it has to with customer service and availability Soundqubed and DD audio are about 10 minutes from my house .
The rzr 2500 is ok for 80 bucks. Think it makes around 650 rms on the dyno. I just bought a korean audio legion 1600 for 170 then theres the soundqubed U series for dirt cheap so is the rzr really a good deal?
Crazy that in this day and age 1500 watts is considered a lower powered system! Back in the day 300 watts would slam hard and costed quite a bit of money. Now days you can get 1000 watts rms for far less than a 75x2 amp from a reputable brand back in the 90s.
@@Jackmerius_Tacktheretrix in the late 90s I ran at 2 amp system in my truck total of about 600 rms with kicker speakers all around including a pair of cOmp 15s and that was the biggest system on the streets in my area. Today I run a 1600 audio legion Korean amp on a single 12” but think I’m going to pick up this u 3000 or maybe the u 5000 because hey it’s dirt cheap power!
Big D.. Whats up!! Love the Videos.. I know you documents all the Amps you Dyno.. Do you have a list or "best of" of the budget Subwoofer amps tested in regards to efficiency especially at 1 ohm Dynamic?? I ended up getting rid of the Skar rp1200 cause your video pointed out how poor the efficiency was...
Hi ! Can I use this to power my RockfordFosgate p3 two 12’s. I bought the 1200w RF amp that it was suggested but I don’t feel the punch and power I was feeling before. With what I had before my two 12s kickers and a 3000w sundown amp. It was good. Just looking to try new stuff. Thanks !
Total Harmonic Distortion is the ability of an amplifier to reproduce a sound wave accurately. As THD increases the sound wave is less accurately reproduced (distortion). As long as the amplifier is below your preferred THD threshold it will not be adulterating the sound wave it is being given. Efficiency determines the power draw required to put a certain amount of power into a speaker driver. What is measured here is power level at a certain THD threshold (clipping), and the power required from your vehicle to get that power output. It's going to do that into your SQ subs in a sealed box and it's going to do that into your ported ground pounders that set off car alarms. We're assuming the wave isn't skewed, slanted, doesn't have smaller resonant waves in it, etc. The amplifier will simply do what it is told to do with a known amount of distortion. SQ is subjective and has to do with how you perceive the mechanical motion of the air around you when your drivers work together. The goal of the amplifier is to increase the energy in the wave form while influencing it less than your threshold of detection. If it is set correctly this is usually the case.
@@JohnDoe-mx1sq most sq amps also have higher dynamic power making the bass punchier and also put out more consistant power. for example, if you use a multimeter on a sine wave, you can see the power fluctuate a little on cheaper amps.
Relativity small, strong and good price. But the money saved you need to save up to upgrade electrical. But then again that’s a practice that should be done before doing any install. Electrical first. 👍🏻😊👍🏻
Nice video. 300+ amps is going to require some big batteries/cables @ 14.4 volts. I don't do car audio (per se), but it isn't rocket science. 4/0 (0000) power cables and a massive fuse block?
@@wal I just hooked my 3k up earlier today on 4x 12in c2 audio threatcon 2. Is the alt upgrade absolutely necessary not running it to the max? Im running it on a stock 130amp alt and a normal front battery with a 90ah agm secondary at the amp lol I only have the gain up like 1/3 and thats enough with how much rattle this truck produces Edited just to note, obviously have all other electrical done properly with oversized ofc big 3 good grounds etc. I only have a cigarette lighter volt meter though but it seems fine from there peaking at 14.6 and not dropping below 14
@@AR-dm2rs as long as you’re monitoring your voltage you should be good. A larger amp can be safely run on stock electrical as long as it’s tuned down to match the available electrical output of the vehicle. People get in trouble when they try to get the full 3K running stock electrical and that just won’t work without electrical upgrades to support it. It takes power to make power.
What amps do you recommend for a 1000 rms amp? 1. Any price 2. Reliable (last for years) I am currently running a NVX 1000.1 and very impressed that has lasted for two years
mine accidentally shorted out yesterday, and now when i checked what was broken, it was one of those little black pieces under the metal plates on the left side. Here is the time stamp 9:07 (sorry if my english isn't very good)
Add another good (not great, but good enough for most folks) high power amp for very little cash in this era of high inflation. Are we in the golden age of car audio? I say yes.
Samwise4me I'm just hoping all this monopoly of over inflation doesn't eventually boil over into car audio. Idk what I'll do if that happens. IMO Skar already raised their product prices too high & then quick realized when their sales dropped tremendously that was well over a year ago right before they started this cheesy "limited time" 15% off sale that they've renamed over 5 times since first starting it but constantly kept it at 15% off sale. I'm curious to see if they ever do stop buying Audio Legion badged products & then reselling them on Amazon & Ebay for a quick flip profit if then they'll once again begin to focus on their actual Skar branded products & keeping their own products prices competitive. I personally own 3 skar subs now & have owned other skar products so definitely not a skar hater. I just think it's really showing through brightly where Skar's owner & majority investors hearts are truly at. For the last 2 years or longer it definitely has not been in the best interest of their customers or supporters! What company buys another company's products at rock bottom prices then turns around and sells/ships that other companies products out of their own warehouse all while discontinuing their Skar points program & not allowing loyal customers to use the remaining points they'd built up all from buying that companies products?!?! In my opinion that's bad business! Could be the exact type of business that reveals their Achilles heal... I've seen many businesses much larger than Skar Audio be forced to throw in the towel & close up shop. To be honest, with Skar's current prices if I were doing another build I'd be buying either American Bass or Deaf Bonce subs, unless I ended up forking out the extra cash for Sundown. Skar would not even be on my list any longer unless they dropped their prices atleast another 10% on their subs & theirs way too many half bridge amps on the market for me to even consider Skar sk series amps anymore. I didn't mention the RP series because I'm not looking to fry eggs or live in protect.
@@itdoesntmatterwhatyourname6128 You make some good points. Just because the prices on car audio have not risen as fast as other products, that does not mean that manufacturers never play games with their customers. One of the reasons that prices have not risen as fast is that manufacturers have saved a lot of money on R&D by copying each others designs. I applaud the way the car audio makers have continued to provide quality products at low prices, but the lack of innovation in this field recently is noticeable.
Can u go over the basics for upgrading car electrical. Are we talking, better alternator and battery? And what else?. Love watching your reviews. Thanks
Yes, upgrade alt to a legit h.o 200a + alt. All wiring upgrade to 1/0+, and at least a secondary battery if you're sticking to batteries. Super caps can be add inline. Lithium you'll most likely need to isolate the Lithium on its own charging system
I have fitted a few amps over the years, but I’m wondering if more expensive amps give a clearer, cleaner sound? Or does that even matter for subwoofers?
Depends on your musical taste and goals. Those who want to flex windshields and do hair tricks just want lots of power and big subs. Those who want deep clean bass may choose a less powerful, more detailed sounding amp. It’s all personal preference. I’d suggest listening to a few to see what you like best
I wonder the same thing, I have a Korean based amp DD M2a and it’s definitely not as clean as my JL HD. It kinda bothers me as the DD amp sounds like it has a blanket over the sound and is less detailed in transients. Some will say on subs it doesn’t matter but I’ve done real world testing and for me it does matter! One thing I haven’t tried is running my subs at 4 ohm on the DD to increase the dampening factor because the jl is running a 4 ohm load and it has the best dampening factor at that ohm load
Just gonna stick with my 1400 watt JBL sub amp. Not very impressive by comparison but, it requires less additional cost for upgraded electrical. However, for those that don't mind the extra cost to meet the electrical demand, a couple of these little amps will definitely have your license plate rattling!
@MSH68 two U1-3000 amps would definitely have more than the license plate rattling so long as the person had their subs in the proper enclosure. Lol probably have the license plate rattling on the car in traffic beside them. Lol I knew what you were saying though. Btw MSH68 I used to think exactly like you. I was happy with a good bit of bass to compliment my music & no way in he** was I gonna spend the $$$ on a h/o alt & dang sure wasn't dumping $$$ on a lithium bank, BUT then I got bitten by the bass bug... I think its almost as bad as drug addiction! Now I have a 350 amp high output alternator, big 3 ofc tinned wire all 1/0 ga, single 18" sub in my daily & then four 15s I'm fixing to put in my next project. At last count I have 22 Korean half bridge amps & 5 Brazilian style full bridge (full range) amps. Almost wished I hadn't gotten bitten by the "bass bug" but it sure is fun!
@@fd1596 I believe there's a lot not to it than just having this amp & extra battery in the trunk to have the windshield flexing. I've seen lots of builds with 5k & 8k half bridge South Korean amps that still weren't flexing the windshields... And I know many bassheads will agree with me.
@@itdoesntmatterwhatyourname6128 I'm telling you from experience. 2 Fi SSD 12s in a 4cf box tuned to 32hz, the Soundqubed U1-3000, a X2 battery under the hood, and a kinetic HC2400 in the trunk. Yes the windshield flexes, as well as the back glass.
I bought the Soundqubed s1-1250 and s4-100 a couple years ago. They did real well for just over a year...and then just after the 1 year mark, they both randomly stopped working for no obvious reason. I ran them well within spec, 2 ohm on the sub and 4 ohm on the 4 channel. I know that sh1t happens and nothing lasts forever, but them dying right after the warranty expired really pissed me off! Does that mean it will happen to you if you buy this amp BigD talkin about? I dont know. I hope you find better success with them than I did.
They did not both go at the same time. The mono amp went kaput first...which I replaced with a D4S 800 (which was much better than the SQ) and then about a month later the 4 channel ceased to output. They both still power on but output nothing.
Honestly what would I have to do with a stock electrical system the alternator is a 130 Amp alternator what should I do and would their subwoofer be worth getting
These look very similar to the SFB line from SD. I bet they are from the same build house. My little SFB amp made way more than rated, good amps for the $.
Have you ever Dyno'd American bass/ VFL's stealth amps? I bought one and they seem to be underpowered. Sound great and seem efficient, but definitely not pushing what they're rated for.
Just incredible the amount of power for so cheap. I’ve got an audio legion 1600 made in Korea but I’m thinking of grabbing one of these u 3000 amps or maybe even the u 5k because hey it’s cheap power!
@@wal ended up ordering the 3k for a future build to power a pair of D2 NVX vcw 12s i picked up recently. Wont run the amp until i have my electrical up to par but couldn’t pass up the deal!
![OVERLOADED my AMP DYNO? D4S JP83 is a 10,000 watt MONSTER!! [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_Buqewi_8lI/mqdefault.jpg)
![OVERLOADED my AMP DYNO? D4S JP83 is a 10,000 watt MONSTER!! [4K]](/img/tr.png)
As someone who was around to see the first 1k watt amps in stores for well over $1k, seeing these amps are a real kick.
Tell me about it. The RF Power 1000 in my day was $2650
theres no comparison. the power 1000 is full range class ab. this is class d and over 5 percent distortion.
@@davidstevens7809 you missed the point of the conversation entirely. It was about the decline in cost per watt in 30-40 years. There was no consumer class d amps when the 1k watt barrier was broken.
Smacking myself in the head now it's stupid cheap
@@sneezinhatch did you buy one of the U Series before they went on sale?
Honestly didn't think it'd do as well. We already all know folks will be running 4 guage CCA on stock electrical if they barely have to drop a bill on the amp. Excellent video as always Dwiz
I wasn’t sure it would survive. It was slamming those 12’s too!
@Kswis lol same exact thing I started to think after the shock of being able to order these U Series full range Soundqubed amps beyond dirt cheap! I think maybe that is why they make you check a box on the site when placing the order acknowledging that you are aware stock electrical is a no no, and then to be double sure they include a letter in each amp so when you open it you get reminded again not to run the amp on stock electrical. I think Soundqubed was smart in taking those precautions.
Personally I got a U1-3000 (to put away with many others I have collected) & a U4-500 that I plan on trying to find the perfect match of drivers for to really boost my midrange soundstage.
Yea all copper got way too expensive way too quick. For daily bumpage you don’t need it and can do CCA. Honestly ain’t no one needs this amp unless you doing db Drag competitions. I hate those hex screws. They strip so easily (not the threads, the heads!). Bring back Philips head. Also those kickers could barely handle 300 rms, how they still move?!
@@hardtymz2517 I definitely agree with you on copper getting too expensive, though it had never been cheap atleast not in my lifetime. But copper has went through the roof over the last year.
hardtymz2517 I got admit though about 3 years ago I've started using all OFC wire for everything when I'm doing car audio (unless I've got room to use 2/0 ga CCA then I'll use CCA). If it doesn't benefit me then oh well, it's my $ wasted BUT I have had no issues so far (Knock on wood). Very solid power to my amp, solid grounds, no odd wiring issues I've had to trace. I've even been buying tinned ofc when it's available in the specific brand that I'm buying. Could companies had some killer sales on ofc around a year ago so I bought four 50' spools of tinned ofc during one sale (2 red spools & 2 black spools). Then D4S ran a killer sale on all their Certified Basshead wire so I bought 4 spools of their 2/0 gauge CCA (2 red spools & 2 black spools). So I should be good on power & ground wire for a while. Rather have it & not need it. I'm hoping copper wire & lots of other things will go back to their previous prices when things steady out but I fear that will not happen.
@@itdoesntmatterwhatyourname6128 I use 0 gauge welding wire 100% copper.
Have a soundqubed amp and it’s awesome running 4 12’s with it now !!!! Never had any issues with it at all!!! Would highly recommend it!!!
I run two of the u1-1500 amps (one on each sub) with upgraded electronics for 1.5 years now daily with no problems. Love these little amps under my truck seat
Great feedback 👌
These inexpensive amps are what makes car audio fun again!!!
No joke, got a plan in my head for a 150+dB budget build in my head now. Back in the day 150dB was insane, I believe at one point the world record was like 153. Now you can do it budget.
Absolutely
Thats CRAZY I literally left a comment a day or 2 back asking about this series and big D DELIVERS thanks for the vids and reviews man. My main source of info right here
I just knew you wanted to see it 😬🤙
Curious about longevity and overall SQL, but the fact that it was at $119 for a bit and delivers beyond 3000 watts is incredible. Back in the 90's, I remember seeing junk that claimed they were doing 1.5k+ on the cheap and the RMS was probably no more than 500 "unclean" watts. There were only a handful of reputable players in the game that could deliver true 1k+ amps, and you were paying $1/watt or much more depending where and what you were looking for. Considering inflation and everything else over time, the game has changed a lot in terms of watt/dollar.
heh, remember Lanzar and their "2k claimed" amps xD
These video are masterpieces created with perfection. I been watching these videos for 4 plus years and each video is the best education of audio that you can learn. I'm getting one of these amps for Christmas this year. This is the kind of amp that you need to have plenty of watts yet setting your gain properly to not burn or blow your subwoofers and running at the proper level you can play this amp for thousands of hours and this amplifier will never overheat. These amps were engineered by amazing people to help give the watts for creating sound.
Wow I’m just amazed on how far we came and still continuing on audio technology!! Pretty soon we go have a amp the size of a Nintendo switch that push out 2k lol
With horrible thermal control
@@chaseleim4773
Exactly
You've got to make them bullet-proof.
The mobile environment is brutal just as a baseline.
Add in some serious thumpage while operating w/marginal electrical systems; recipe for disaster.
These amps must be made to a wickedly robust build spec.
I came upon the sale and the UI-3000 was sold out. So went with the UI-5000 and the bought 2 of the UI 4 channel amps. Best Deals I've gotten in a long time.
Crazy dealz!
@@wal I was so impressed (previously had Hifonics BRX 2600.1D & BXX 800.4 powering 2-12" Soundqubed Subs/4 - D4S-60 6.5" speakers) I went back a few days ago to buy another one...but sale was over 😔.
Thank you so much for testing this amp. I bought the 5000 watt model last year when they came out. The worst part is the bass knob. I haven’t had any problems with it, but I didn’t use it very long because my pre order came through on the CAB 45
CAB 22 & 45 amps are both beasts from what all I've heard. I ordered the 3000w Soundqubed (have no use for it right now but I can't pass up a sale like that) & the U4-500 amp. Can't wait to find some legit speakers to hook up to this 4 channel Soundqubed amp!
I bought the U1-5000 and U4-500. The 5000 is pushing and I've only run it at 4 and 2 ohm loads. That bass knob is pure trash though. I use the one off my LOC which is pretty mid honestly.
I had the U1-8000 and I absolutely loved it!!
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How much do you clamp out of it??
@Corey Reeves what happened to it? You sell or trade it?
I really wanted to see this one on a dyno. Been recommending this amp because of the price point. Thanks!
I did it cause I knew y’all would wanna see it
@@wal you really need to run for POTUS! You'd have a lot of people backing you the minute you tossed your hat in the ring! You'd have my vote fo' sho (which in all honesty would be insane considering I do not know your view points, position on ideas, etc but I get the feeling we'd see 👁 2 👁 on things).
@@wal I have the 8k version of this amplifier U series.
I'm running a soundqubed 6.5 sub and it's no joke! This brand is pretty damn good!
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Post some vids
Audioque/soundqubed has always been in my top 10. Always giving you excellent quality products at a reasonable price.
It's basically Digital Designs like skar is cheaper sundown
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Had you told me in 1999 that in about 20 years, I'd be able to buy an amp that does 3k rms for 150 bucks, but that's not all, the foot print of that amp would be no bigger than your hand, I wold have never believed you..
You and me both!
I can't believe how far class D has come. The density of this unit is incredible.
Yeah it’s kinda insane
Does it work? Geezz... You keep bringing up metal vs plastic bass knobs. I need you to do tests on bass knobs my boi. Like fr, you bring it up so much, it warrants a thorough analysis.
Thanks for the suggestion
For those just now watching, been pushing mine to max on .5 ohms for over a year now, and it seems to love it! so glad I got it before it disappeared!
Ur brave pushing full bridge at .5! Just smoked a brand new jp23v2 after 10 minutes at .5. looking for a fill in amp to pushy Avatar stu 12, looking at a 5k fullbridge but scared ASF of em
@@erik120719 the Jp Amps are not robust at all man. JP is just a master at marketing, I love the dude but his products are hit or miss these days.
See Playlist of 3kW Full Bridge Amps: bit.ly/3yCofdM
Check for availability: soundqubed.com/product/3000-w-full-range/
*Shop for Similar amps* (Amazon/D4S Affiliate links):
Taramps HD3000: amzn.to/3AF8xkY
Taramps Smart 3: amzn.to/3casWUU
NVX XAD42: amzn.to/3PbN9rA
DS18 GFX-3K1: amzn.to/3yxyUXd
Sundown Audio SFB Amplifiers: lddy.no/1c5al
Soundstream TXP1.6000D: amzn.to/3uH8Pnr
Video Index:
0:00 Intro
0:48 SoundQubed U1-3000
1:07 Unboxing the Amp
1:51 Features and Specs
3:32 Amp Dyno Tests
7:25 Subwoofer Tests
8:54 What's Inside?
9:36 Pro's and Con's
10:26 Final Thoughts
11:04 EXTRAS
_DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases_
ive been waiting for this video since the u series dropped. Thank you sir
That’s just amazing the direction amps are going….You had me sold for the AudioPipe 3000 amp….
I had the U1-8000 and it went out when I blew a subwoofer on it. It still turns on but its not giving a single to my other working subwoofer. Soundqubed replaced my amp with a brand new amplifier. Soundqubed is a very good brand and if you want this amp to last get good electrical and try not blowing subwoofers on this amp.
Some amps don’t have that speaker out protection
Yeah, but didn't Soundqubed replaced it with a brand new one even though they didn't have to? While the sound quality isn't as good as some of the Korean built amplifiers it is definitely better than the Taramps MD series a lot of people run nowadays. I've ran this amp as well as the Sundown SFB 3k on Fi subwoofers and they sounded better than the Taramps. Sound quality is very good for its price range.
@@fd1596 yeah your right my U1-8000 wasn't the worst sound quality. It was very good. Just edit what I said about the sound quality. Soundqubed is a very good brand😀
@@RyanBassForLife Yeah, no problem. Just trying to give credit where it's due. I think maybe the sound quality issues you may have had came from running the amp into clipping, or just pushing the subs too hard beyond their mechanical limits. That U-8000 was definitely too much amp for your HDX3s. You might want to consider getting a Sundown SFB remote gain knob with clip light. I've tried it on the U series amplifiers and they work.
I would be nice if you could start adding some more tests, like noise floor, turn on thump, frequency response like sweep or pink noise electrical output reading. Power is a thing but if the amp is hissing as hell or distort anything higher than 10khz, that's not ideal... Continue the great work, you have became the reference for amp testing on TH-cam.
Thanks for the suggestion. I have a HP Audio analyzer I’m planning on adding in to some future tests. Mainly just the SQ related amps tho
I still have the 600w lol! It gets hot, definitely needs fans! Thanks for the video! Love this channel!
Thats not too bad. The bass knob may be a deal breaker for me. I am loving the clip light on my JP23 bass knob. I know there are some budget amps now as well, I think the Black Diamond amp review had one. When you really want to go full tilt it is great to have, I don't think I could go back. Then again, getting 3k amps at $120 a pop is hard to resist.
@Murray Sheckleberg why don't you get a bass remote with clip light (Soundqubed even sells them on their site for their other amps) & see if it works. I'm leaning towards it probably would work considering the U1 series amps have clip lights on the amp itself. Therefore it has the ability to detect clipping so it probably has the ability to send it to clip light via remote. I could be wrong but I planned on trying it sometime myself since I have several bass remotes with clip lights that I have checked & they each will indeed plug into my U1-3000 that I ordered. Maybe someone will even try this & post about it before I get time to test mine out. I'm thinking they just used the Super cheapo bass remote to keep prices at rock-bottom below their competition. So many bassheads cars less about factory bass remotes because they are choosing to go with fancy ones like 'Slam Pandas' and others.
@@itdoesntmatterwhatyourname6128 The Soundqubed Q series knobs won't work, but the Sundown SFB knobs do work and can be found on eBay for less than $40
Soundqubed is underrated. I've had no issues with their products.
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I'm in my 89 suburban, one Rockford Fosgate P500.2(?), 2 P2 8 ohm 10s, and 2 more MTX 6000s 8ohms 10s also. Each pair on its own channel wired in parallel, of course.
These are my morning news Big D! Installing and listening to audio reviews! Thanks
Awesome 👏
Need to do the UI-8000. That $319 price tag for 8krms is definitely insane!!
Link?
SoundQubed.com and you can find it easily
@Kyle Timmins at the price you mentioned the 8k amp being, the U1-8000 is not any cheaper per watt than the U1-3000.
And I'm only guessing here, but Big D probably tested the U1-3000 because he knew more of his viewers either ordered or would be ordering the U1-3000 versus the U1-8000. Personally I'd love to see the U4-500 tested just to see how much over rated power it produces, if any. Though I'd be highly surprised if it put out less than rated as it seems most companies now (especially the budget companies) under rate all of their car audio products. Same business tactics worked for Mopar in the 60s & early 70s & it still works to this day over 45 years later.
@@itdoesntmatterwhatyourname6128 well considering most full bridge 8ks go for $550+ the UI-8000 at $320 on their website is an insane deal in my book.
Thank you.
I was waiting on buying one of these 3ks til you made a dyno of it. I run soundqubeds..well...everything in my car and wanted more power.
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When I'm doing system installs. I can't stress it enough either Big D that upgrades to electrical systems are a must with big power pulling amps. You never know when that alternator is going to go out on you on those stock electrical systems.
For a $119 you can’t complain. Makes 3000 watts, nice cheap power as long as you upgraded your electrical. I remember spending around $700 for a Rockford Fosgate punch 250m back in 1997. Made around 700 watts.
Yeah man that RF was a beast for it’s time tho
Bought this amp on-sale. Then bought the jp23 v2 also. Will soon put those 2 to the test @1
For the $$$ WOW! I wasn't expecting much out of this amp, but now we all know. Hot dang! good video BigD, keep at it.
Kinda crazy
Just thought, if your able to check out this amp: Seismic Audio SA-1500.1L, it's about $144 new and $124 used on Amazon. Thank you sir.
Okay I am impressed. I’m still running my RF Power 1100a2 and Power 800a4 from new. But man those numbers are so impressive
Wish they did home audio that kicks this hard for this cheap
For the price it's at you could still throw in the other bass knob on there web sight with a on and clip lights. First 3k under 200$ had to get it to match my 2 hds3.I 12s I got on sale 230$ last year from sound qubed. 500$ total for my 3k build not including electrical and deck that cheap compared to the 90s or a jlw7 👍👌✌️🎶💯🥂
I wanna get this amp or the ampere 2k....I have a 100 amp alt with two batteries and the big 3. Would I be able to run this at 2ohms with My electrical setup?
Nice quality amp. I picked up one of these amps today. I loved the sfb1500 I had no issues whatsoever.
I have a sfb5000 & bought the Soundqubed U1-3000 & the U4-500. Also have a Taramps Smart3 & md8000. And of course lots of half bridge Korean board amps.
got one of these right before they went out of stock last week :P pretty happy with it.
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I love your videos! Thank you so much for cutting through all the BS!!!!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I really don't ubderstand why some people would complain about what a amplifier does at high voltage. It makes me realize that I will get all the power I need and then some at 14.4v - 14.8v.
Just make YT videos and you’ll understand
@@wal makes sense Big Dee!
I try to catch all your amp dynos although I’m not really into car audio much. Most of the amps you test usually give the highest output on the dynamic test for a given impedance load. This one only did that at 1 ohm. On the 2 and 4 ohm loads you measured more power at clipping than with the burst test. I thought maybe the amp was unable to supply the current to the speakers required but was able to do it at minimal impedance. Any thoughts on why?
Some amps are just more efficient on some ohm loads usually the higher the more efficient unlike this, but you get more power than advertised
Thanks for the response. I understand what you are saying. But what baffles me is that on the dynamic burst test it put out less power on the 4 and 2 ohm test than it did on the up to clipping test. On the 1 ohm test it put out more power on the dynamic test than the clipping test as it should and should have also at the 4 and 2 ohm tests but didn’t. As Big D usually states the clipping test at the lowest ohm load is the most brutal test on an amplifier. And it passed that without going into protection. Just wonder how this is possible because electrically it doesn’t make sense if all else is equal.
Soon as I saw the killer deal I bought some of these Soundqubed U Series amps. Then I thought at this cheap of a price I bet Big D will be testing at least one of the new Soundqubed full range amps. I was shocked to see that a company like Soundqubed were having a sale with as low of prices as they did. I realize it was only their new full range amps that were on sale & even then they still didn't run their big 13k on sale, I'm not complaining I can't properly power a 13k right now anyway... I was under the impression that Soundqubed was such a well know name & with brand recognition that they'd never sell their products at that low of a price. Maybe they aren't as well known as I'd thought.
Personally I bought the U1-3000, the U4-500 & the AL 250.4 (not its not a Soundqubed amp but I ordered it same day I ordered the Soundqubed amps, the 4 channel Audio Legion amps are beasts! I have 4 of the AL 110.4 amps). I will say in regards to the the Soundqubed U1 series amps, I was VERY surprised at the quality of the tuning pots (knobs for gain, high/low pass etc) as they seem on par & even better than some amps that I've spent a lot more money on. The amp itself overall gave a much more sturdy feel to it & much better look to it than I had expected. In my opinion the Soundqubed U1 amps both look & feel more sturdy then my Sundown sfb amp (even though they may be built in the same exact warehouse to the same standards as each other). The only let downs that I have with the Soundqubed U Series amps is the way too cheap bass remotes (I plan to see if one of my better remotes that has a clip light will work with them since the U1 does have a clip light on the amp) & the fact that the U4 amp actually does not come with a remote, it doesn't even have a spot to connect a remote. Lol I know a bunch of people will say it's a 4 channel amp, you do not need a remote! Well considering its power output being a 4 channel amp one has many different options on what type of of speakers/drivers they will use, including the ability to bridge channels. This little amp truly has the ability to make the mids & or highs Soundstage in the vehicle VERY loud. Much louder than the typical 2 or 4 channel amps that you see on the market!
Thanks for the feedback 👌
@@wal any chance you will dyno & review the U4-500 Soundqubed amp? I ordered one of those also, now i have to figure out what speakers (mid/high soundstage) this 4 channel amp will complement well.
Thank you for your hardwork & dedication to consistently making great content!
I was eyeing the al110.4 but want to run class AB on my doors so i grabbed an al1600 instead which came in last week to replace my rp1200 sub amp. Then i heard about the soundqubed U series amps and was in shock how inexpensive that much power is going for and from a brand ive actually heard of! Granted they aren’t Korean like the Audio Legion but 3k for even 159 is a steal. I was gonna grab a second al1600 since they are strappable but now im Pretty sure im gonna snag a U 3k Friday. i just cant pass that deal up!
Do all full bridge mono amps require aftermarket alternator? Is that why they’re so cheap?
I love how proper power is affordable these days. 12 years ago when i was young and got my first car it was like $1000 for 1000w
Exactly!
Bought the amp after watching. I plan on only running 4 ohms until I get an alternator. Big 3 are done but I know I need a lot more for this big boy
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Im running this on my mids what do you think will change?
So i see that is a cheap amp right but my question is a 240 high output alternator good or thats a hell no
I got a pair of sundown sfb-8000.1D amps for apx 5cents per watt
349.99 each
I just dyno them at 79.81% at 1 ohm making 9143w at clip at 14.11v. On 600Ah lifepo4 bank they are only 12 watts apart on dyno.
I might make a few tweaks internally to reduce stress at 1 ohm before installing.
Also I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that if your using one of these use a dsp to send a clean bass signal to the Amp
What's the best watt per dollar amp that can run on the typical stock electrical system?
Look to have a strong grip on the quad box crazy value 😀
Nice video as allways thanks for all your hard work.
Hopefully it will give taramps a run for the money!!! The bass knob does seem cheep but at least it has one!!!
I can imagine how this would cost me back in the 80's and 90's 😂 in 91 my setup was really up there 🤦♂️
How does this amp compare to the stinger amplifier as far as bass and sound
What amp would you recommend for 4 8” subs. They are 600 rms a piece.
Thanks Big D for this test I have nothing but good things to say about Soundqubed after changing everything in the prius from Rockford👍
Crazy man
@E Dud what could there be to possibly say good about Soundqubed when comparing it to Fosgate??? Seriously other than the affordability of the Soundqubed products idk how you could even put the two brands in the same sentence... You must have always had the cheaper entry level Fosgate gear.
Let it be known I'm not even a Fosgate fanboy but I know the difference in true quality versus mass produced budget products. Rockford Fosgate will always be superior to anything Soundqubed will ever dream of making.
@@itdoesntmatterwhatyourname6128 Dont get me wrong I still have all my Fosgate stuff enough for 2 cars stashed away in the closet waiting to go in another car. Alot of it has to with customer service and availability Soundqubed and DD audio are about 10 minutes from my house .
I have a 2018 crew cab Chevy truck and want to add two 10” subs but don’t want to break the bank any suggestions on amp and speakers
3500 watt overdrive power acoustik I have to say it I had the 2500 watt razar it was get I think power acoustik is very slept on ..
The rzr 2500 is ok for 80 bucks. Think it makes around 650 rms on the dyno. I just bought a korean audio legion 1600 for 170 then theres the soundqubed U series for dirt cheap so is the rzr really a good deal?
@@jkstdstang for just driving to Walmart and buying shit yeah it's pretty underrated
Any thoughts on testing a Soundqubed u1-1500? $129 for 1500w seems pretty good as well for lower powered systems
Crazy that in this day and age 1500 watts is considered a lower powered system! Back in the day 300 watts would slam hard and costed quite a bit of money. Now days you can get 1000 watts rms for far less than a 75x2 amp from a reputable brand back in the 90s.
@@Jackmerius_Tacktheretrix in the late 90s I ran at 2 amp system in my truck total of about 600 rms with kicker speakers all around including a pair of cOmp 15s and that was the biggest system on the streets in my area. Today I run a 1600 audio legion Korean amp on a single 12” but think I’m going to pick up this u 3000 or maybe the u 5000 because hey it’s dirt cheap power!
@@jkstdstang man can you imagine if this stuff was available back in the 90s at these prices! Especially with the efficiency of those old school subs!
@@Jackmerius_Tacktheretrix $1 a watt days I remember them well!
@@jkstdstang right! I have an old school orion xtr 12 that i am sending to Patrick to get reconed. Long live the old school!
Big D.. Whats up!! Love the Videos.. I know you documents all the Amps you Dyno.. Do you have a list or "best of" of the budget Subwoofer amps tested in regards to efficiency especially at 1 ohm Dynamic?? I ended up getting rid of the Skar rp1200 cause your video pointed out how poor the efficiency was...
Any plans on testing the bigger versions? I bought a u1 8k to run on a single fi V1 team 15.
Not really
Wow just like the sundown same circuit board keep up the good work Big D nuff respect 👍 👍
omg... the insides vs my old RF1000BD... and triple the power! wow!
Hi ! Can I use this to power my RockfordFosgate p3 two 12’s. I bought the 1200w RF amp that it was suggested but I don’t feel the punch and power I was feeling before. With what I had before my two 12s kickers and a 3000w sundown amp. It was good. Just looking to try new stuff.
Thanks !
Can you do a video on how they claim the more efficient an amp is the lesser sound quality of the amp? Or any insight on this claim?
There is no method for determining SQ via measurements. SQ is subjective and measurements are objective
Total Harmonic Distortion is the ability of an amplifier to reproduce a sound wave accurately. As THD increases the sound wave is less accurately reproduced (distortion).
As long as the amplifier is below your preferred THD threshold it will not be adulterating the sound wave it is being given.
Efficiency determines the power draw required to put a certain amount of power into a speaker driver.
What is measured here is power level at a certain THD threshold (clipping), and the power required from your vehicle to get that power output. It's going to do that into your SQ subs in a sealed box and it's going to do that into your ported ground pounders that set off car alarms.
We're assuming the wave isn't skewed, slanted, doesn't have smaller resonant waves in it, etc. The amplifier will simply do what it is told to do with a known amount of distortion.
SQ is subjective and has to do with how you perceive the mechanical motion of the air around you when your drivers work together. The goal of the amplifier is to increase the energy in the wave form while influencing it less than your threshold of detection. If it is set correctly this is usually the case.
@@JohnDoe-mx1sq most sq amps also have higher dynamic power making the bass punchier and also put out more consistant power. for example, if you use a multimeter on a sine wave, you can see the power fluctuate a little on cheaper amps.
@@squishypeanut42 SQ amps also always seem to cost twice as much and have half the power 🤷♂️
Relativity small, strong and good price. But the money saved you need to save up to upgrade electrical. But then again that’s a practice that should be done before doing any install. Electrical first.
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Build a headway bank for a couple hundred bucks
Really liking that squared off look kinda old school look
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Good God, that Lil' hustler is a monster! Thanks for another great vid Big D. I too am, OUTTA HEAH 👍🏼
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Nice video. 300+ amps is going to require some big batteries/cables @ 14.4 volts. I don't do car audio (per se), but it isn't rocket science. 4/0 (0000) power cables and a massive fuse block?
The 300A pills are shown with test tones, so normal music should be 200-250. So single 1/0 and 240A alt with an extra battery should suffice
@@wal I just hooked my 3k up earlier today on 4x 12in c2 audio threatcon 2. Is the alt upgrade absolutely necessary not running it to the max? Im running it on a stock 130amp alt and a normal front battery with a 90ah agm secondary at the amp lol
I only have the gain up like 1/3 and thats enough with how much rattle this truck produces
Edited just to note, obviously have all other electrical done properly with oversized ofc big 3 good grounds etc. I only have a cigarette lighter volt meter though but it seems fine from there peaking at 14.6 and not dropping below 14
@@AR-dm2rs as long as you’re monitoring your voltage you should be good. A larger amp can be safely run on stock electrical as long as it’s tuned down to match the available electrical output of the vehicle. People get in trouble when they try to get the full 3K running stock electrical and that just won’t work without electrical upgrades to support it. It takes power to make power.
What amps do you recommend for a 1000 rms amp?
1. Any price
2. Reliable (last for years)
I am currently running a NVX 1000.1 and very impressed that has lasted for two years
Rockford Fosgate T1000bdcp
@@wal thank you
mine accidentally shorted out yesterday, and now when i checked what was broken, it was one of those little black pieces under the metal plates on the left side. Here is the time stamp 9:07
(sorry if my english isn't very good)
Now i'm wondering what is it?
Add another good (not great, but good enough for most folks) high power amp for very little cash in this era of high inflation. Are we in the golden age of car audio? I say yes.
Samwise4me I'm just hoping all this monopoly of over inflation doesn't eventually boil over into car audio. Idk what I'll do if that happens. IMO Skar already raised their product prices too high & then quick realized when their sales dropped tremendously that was well over a year ago right before they started this cheesy "limited time" 15% off sale that they've renamed over 5 times since first starting it but constantly kept it at 15% off sale. I'm curious to see if they ever do stop buying Audio Legion badged products & then reselling them on Amazon & Ebay for a quick flip profit if then they'll once again begin to focus on their actual Skar branded products & keeping their own products prices competitive. I personally own 3 skar subs now & have owned other skar products so definitely not a skar hater. I just think it's really showing through brightly where Skar's owner & majority investors hearts are truly at. For the last 2 years or longer it definitely has not been in the best interest of their customers or supporters! What company buys another company's products at rock bottom prices then turns around and sells/ships that other companies products out of their own warehouse all while discontinuing their Skar points program & not allowing loyal customers to use the remaining points they'd built up all from buying that companies products?!?! In my opinion that's bad business! Could be the exact type of business that reveals their Achilles heal... I've seen many businesses much larger than Skar Audio be forced to throw in the towel & close up shop.
To be honest, with Skar's current prices if I were doing another build I'd be buying either American Bass or Deaf Bonce subs, unless I ended up forking out the extra cash for Sundown. Skar would not even be on my list any longer unless they dropped their prices atleast another 10% on their subs & theirs way too many half bridge amps on the market for me to even consider Skar sk series amps anymore. I didn't mention the RP series because I'm not looking to fry eggs or live in protect.
@@itdoesntmatterwhatyourname6128 You make some good points. Just because the prices on car audio have not risen as fast as other products, that does not mean that manufacturers never play games with their customers. One of the reasons that prices have not risen as fast is that manufacturers have saved a lot of money on R&D by copying each others designs. I applaud the way the car audio makers have continued to provide quality products at low prices, but the lack of innovation in this field recently is noticeable.
Are they still part of DD Audio?
Love that intro song my man!!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Is it full range or mono block?
so how close are all those amps the different brands to one another?
Can u go over the basics for upgrading car electrical. Are we talking, better alternator and battery? And what else?. Love watching your reviews. Thanks
Thanks for the suggestion
Yes, upgrade alt to a legit h.o 200a + alt. All wiring upgrade to 1/0+, and at least a secondary battery if you're sticking to batteries. Super caps can be add inline. Lithium you'll most likely need to isolate the Lithium on its own charging system
Could you test them with 12v power since there is a lot of ppl running amps on stock power..
I have fitted a few amps over the years, but I’m wondering if more expensive amps give a clearer, cleaner sound? Or does that even matter for subwoofers?
Depends on your musical taste and goals. Those who want to flex windshields and do hair tricks just want lots of power and big subs. Those who want deep clean bass may choose a less powerful, more detailed sounding amp. It’s all personal preference. I’d suggest listening to a few to see what you like best
I wonder the same thing, I have a Korean based amp DD M2a and it’s definitely not as clean as my JL HD. It kinda bothers me as the DD amp sounds like it has a blanket over the sound and is less detailed in transients. Some will say on subs it doesn’t matter but I’ve done real world testing and for me it does matter! One thing I haven’t tried is running my subs at 4 ohm on the DD to increase the dampening factor because the jl is running a 4 ohm load and it has the best dampening factor at that ohm load
Just gonna stick with my 1400 watt JBL sub amp. Not very impressive by comparison but, it requires less additional cost for upgraded electrical.
However, for those that don't mind the extra cost to meet the electrical demand, a couple of these little amps will definitely have your license plate rattling!
@MSH68 two U1-3000 amps would definitely have more than the license plate rattling so long as the person had their subs in the proper enclosure. Lol probably have the license plate rattling on the car in traffic beside them. Lol I knew what you were saying though.
Btw MSH68 I used to think exactly like you. I was happy with a good bit of bass to compliment my music & no way in he** was I gonna spend the $$$ on a h/o alt & dang sure wasn't dumping $$$ on a lithium bank, BUT then I got bitten by the bass bug... I think its almost as bad as drug addiction! Now I have a 350 amp high output alternator, big 3 ofc tinned wire all 1/0 ga, single 18" sub in my daily & then four 15s I'm fixing to put in my next project. At last count I have 22 Korean half bridge amps & 5 Brazilian style full bridge (full range) amps. Almost wished I hadn't gotten bitten by the "bass bug" but it sure is fun!
This amp coupled with just an additional battery in the trunk will have your windshield flexing.
@@fd1596 I believe there's a lot not to it than just having this amp & extra battery in the trunk to have the windshield flexing. I've seen lots of builds with 5k & 8k half bridge South Korean amps that still weren't flexing the windshields... And I know many bassheads will agree with me.
@@itdoesntmatterwhatyourname6128 I'm telling you from experience. 2 Fi SSD 12s in a 4cf box tuned to 32hz, the Soundqubed U1-3000, a X2 battery under the hood, and a kinetic HC2400 in the trunk. Yes the windshield flexes, as well as the back glass.
Where do you get the song Bassotronics Big Wizzy Bass of Halloween ? I can't find it on Spotify nor on youtube :(
Will 3 big agm batteries in a diesel truck be enough?
You should test nvx's new line of amps.. Also an MTX 81000D 😁
Thanks for the suggestion
Would love a top 10 dollar per watt video
Please lower the voltages to abt 13.7-13.5 in future videos !! Is regular people pushing 3k watts don’t have all this great electric power
is this rated power rms or peak?
What kind of electrical upgraded need to be done before installing and using.
At a minimum an extra battery and if your alt is under 200A you’ll need an upgrade there as well
I found a mono 800 watt amplifier for just 50 bucks! It uses 3 30amps fuses. I hope you can test it. It's called kinetic amplifier
Thanks for the suggestion
Are the db hypnotic amplifiers any good ?
I bought the Soundqubed s1-1250 and s4-100 a couple years ago. They did real well for just over a year...and then just after the 1 year mark, they both randomly stopped working for no obvious reason. I ran them well within spec, 2 ohm on the sub and 4 ohm on the 4 channel. I know that sh1t happens and nothing lasts forever, but them dying right after the warranty expired really pissed me off! Does that mean it will happen to you if you buy this amp BigD talkin about? I dont know. I hope you find better success with them than I did.
They did not both go at the same time. The mono amp went kaput first...which I replaced with a D4S 800 (which was much better than the SQ) and then about a month later the 4 channel ceased to output. They both still power on but output nothing.
Honestly what would I have to do with a stock electrical system the alternator is a 130 Amp alternator what should I do and would their subwoofer be worth getting
Wow that’s not much. You’d need an extra battery even with the 1500W model
These look very similar to the SFB line from SD. I bet they are from the same build house. My little SFB amp made way more than rated, good amps for the $.
Yea I mention several clones within the first minute
Have you ever Dyno'd American bass/ VFL's stealth amps? I bought one and they seem to be underpowered. Sound great and seem efficient, but definitely not pushing what they're rated for.
Not yet
Would this amp big good for subs or car speakers since its a full range amp?
I would not use this amp for anything but subs
The signal is the unfiltered high frequency carrier signal if I'm not mistaken.
I believe you’re correct
Just incredible the amount of power for so cheap. I’ve got an audio legion 1600 made in Korea but I’m thinking of grabbing one of these u 3000 amps or maybe even the u 5k because hey it’s cheap power!
Just make sure you have the electrical to support
@@wal ended up ordering the 3k for a future build to power a pair of D2 NVX vcw 12s i picked up recently. Wont run the amp until i have my electrical up to par but couldn’t pass up the deal!
Interested to see the MTX Jackhammer JH15001 on the Dyno. They quote "Dynamic Power" for the Wattage rating. Suspicious...
Ok go buy all the stuff to do it and find out.
How does the dyno temp start at 94 then later 82....who turned on dyno a/c
I’m sure I had AC running and it’s near the amp