Thank you David. You have taught me a lot about brewing. Even though I’m a veteran home brewer you have simplified a lot of information that I’d normally have to spend quite a while researching.
I like the way you present the topics in your videos, it`s clean, simple and easy to understand. As an amateur brewer, your videos are very helpful, and they have saved me a lot of times👍
Great, glad you found it useful. I have a set of guides that I feel you would find useful here:- th-cam.com/play/PLeY07JqsrXM_biHp7Y3xIB7TnAY6Ru7pE.html&si=ResJ9aT6_nnvzw-a
Thanks for all the great vids Dave. You have been a big influence in my all grain brewing and I really like your approach and generosity of knowledge . Cheers, and keep em coming. Mark
Thanks for the great, high quality videos you produce. As a new brewer with just about 10 all-grain brews, I am all ears. I have done two pilsners/lagers and they were drinkable and clear after a little lagering. My bag of Viking pilsner malt is running out so I got a bag of Floormalted Bohemian pilsner malt, which will bring me to the next stop on my journey for better beer, I hope. I might even have to try decoction mashing.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I can understand why it is not necessary with modern malts, but I feel I need to travel that road, at least once, on my brewing journey. 🍻
Haha, the issue really is that I am not a big fan of lagers at all, some exceptions of course but in the main im an ales guy. I guess that comes through pretty loud when you look at what I am sharing video wise :)
haha, me 2 I am strictly an ale guy, ask me what happens when I make a lager and ill point you to a picture of my lager that went horribly wrong and say this is why I dont make lagers. I am a menace when it comes to lagers. www.beersmith.com/forum/index.php/topic,16964.msg63882.html#msg63882
hi David loved the video I have never done a two step mash and I think I have been missing out...my daft question I mash at 65 for one hour,do I just raise the temp to 75 after the one hour then sparg ..or do I mash at 75 for a specific time ??? hope this makes sense.
Thanks John. No problem. Usually you would reach 75 and then mash like this for 10 minutes for mash out. After that do your sparge. This 10 min step will help your sparge :)
Hey David, First of all, thanks a billion for all your great content. Totally love it and learned a lot from you. I've been brewing with the Grainfather G40 now for a while, and am wondering if a potential top mash plate would be from any value. What do you think? From what I expect, it could help diving the circulating wort a bit better on the grain bill, but at the same time you can't really stir on the bill when the plate is in place. When using the G30 I also got rid of the top plate pretty often. Looking forward to hear from you what you think! Cheers from the 🇳🇱 M.
Hi Maarten, Great to hear :) The top plate for the G40 is very much optional. It is mostly there for holding larger grainbills in place. So really just relevant if you are maxing out the grain basket capacity.
I’ve experienced it once, with a large triple grainbill. The grains were floating through the two open holes on the top side of the basket. That was annoying and I’ve hacked by blocking the holes it with two small rubber hoses. But far from convenient. I’ve noticed a big hole in the middle of the top plate (on a picture). Which means the grains will still go through. Right?
David, as I develop my home-brewing skills I keep coming back to your videos, rewatching them with "new eyes", extracting more and new value from them. I absolutely love your style, your didactic skills are through the hopping roof, and a fool who can't relish your dry humor. Please keep doing this forEVER. :D To my question: would you have a book recommendation on these enzymatic processes? I'm not looking for a "You could be brewing your own beer!"-intro that's full of awesome pictures and product links. But I'm also not looking to write a PhD on the matter after having finished the book. A proper, scientific overview of the commonly known facts would be awesome. Sorry for being so oddly specific - I'm just trying to make it easy for you to possibly recommend a good read. Thanks much for any consideration on this and have a great week.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew so I've gone through the first couple of chapters and thumbed through the rest - I understand why you would call it "the one must read for homebrewers". Incredibly impressive compendium of knowledge, thanks again for the recommendation. I've also gotten myself a copy of Chris White's "Yeast" and am completely blown away by it. Of course you know it - but I'm leaving it here for others to maybe find it. :)
Dear David can i use 62/68 and 75 steps for Ale as well ? oh and since i found your channel i cant stress enough how much i enjoyed it , not only very knowledgeable but a true gentelmen !!! thank you for your videos and effort !
thanks for that another great vid wouldn be interested to know what you think of mashing in at 72 and let it slowly cool to 60 - is this a reverse step mash? - if stove top brewing its easy to do
Hi Gary, great to hear. If you start your mash at 72 then you will very quickly denature your key enzyme. Reducing the temperature will not have further effect. High mash in steps are usually just used for beers where you want much sugars left behind to add body or sweetness. Stouts are the usual style for this.
Thank you for your informative videos. I have a brewzilla version 3.1. I have been doing overnight mashes with the pump running slowly. When doing a step mash with a mash that long should the time at each temp be proportional (ex: 4 hrs at 143 and 154 with a mash out with the remaining time) or should the mash out be the largest chunk of time. I had come across that as an idea elsewhere but since learning the mash out is mostly just to loosen the grain for sparging it would seem that time would be better applied at the lower temps, correct?
yes, I meant to say 10 min for mash out. Just to confirm, going with 2 hrs at 143 and 6 hrs or something similar proportionally at 154 should work well.@@DavidHeathHomebrew
Hi David I recently received a 10lbs order of 2-Row. Documents included recommend "To Improve Clarity Perform A Protein Rest". Do you think this helps??
Its pretty old school these days. There are various other ways to drop a beer bright. A protein rest will not hurt but I do not see that it would be needed.
Thank you for the video. When you were talking about you favorite Pilsner schedule, do you do 30 min @ 143 and 30 min @ 154 or 30 mins combined (15mins each)?
Hey, David. I have a question. I am currently using mash&boil when I am doing the mash-out (recipe calls for 60min @69C and 10min @78), do I need to raise the water temp. immediatly by adding a calculated amount of hot water, or can I use the units in-built heating element to gradually get to 78 and keep it there? Thank you!
Usually the process is to change the temperature on the brewing system after the 60 minutes step. Wait until the temperature is reached and then start counting the 10 minutes. After this you are ready for the next step which is usually going to be to add Sparge water of a similar temperature to your second step. Hope this helps :)
Hi David, Love your videos. Are you aware of any upcoming new version of the Grainfather? Plan to buy one and just want to be sure that there is not a new one that will be in the market in the next half year... Thanks
+ltcomstar Not that Ive been told about, no. I don’t see the need, upgrades are always things that can be added on alot like the filter and connect for example :)
Grandfather is great and all but I own a robobrew, same build quality for half the cost, the only difference is that it lacks bluetooth but why the fuck should I care about a recipe creator and what not.... I can do that on beer smith so im not going to pay more for nothing better.
+chris kennedy I guess its more about the controller being smart than anything else but its all about choices. You can use my recipes and advice the same way with other systems for the most part.
Hi David, and thanks for your videos! I was used to sparge at 80ºC after a single mash step at 67ºC (heating water at 72ºC before adding the malt, which will result in 65-67ºC). Following your videos (as the SweetChili and others), and this, your method goes in 2 step mash (mashin mashout) mostly, which makes more sense in order to get the most of the grains. In this case... what would be the right temp for the sparging process?
Hi David I have the Grainfather with the new connect now iv noticed and not sure if I should do the same as Brewers that use the mash tun coolbox method but most that use the coolbox method use a higher strike heat to get nearer there proper mash temperature they require and should I wait till I get the temperature for mash before I put the grain In also should I wait till I get a full rolling boil before I add the hops thank norman
Hi Norman. It really depends on which version you are using. If its the US version then due to the power limitations then I would heat higher than mash in temps in due to the time it takes. If you are on a 220-240v system then there is less to worry about. I live in Norway with 220v and I just shoot for the desired temp. It drops a little after adding my grain but within a little time its back where it should be. In terms of the boil I wait until the unit tells me I have hit the boil (100 deg c) I then clear the protein head (I show this in most brew videos) and as long as I am at 100 still I start the timer. Homebrew is not an exact science but I do what I can :)
Hi David got a tricky lager to brew it’s a tenants lager clone ( Scottish beer) so I’ll give you as much information as I can hope you might be able to work out for me so here goes Uk lager malt 4.5 kilos flaked rice 1.4 kilos using Grainfather how much mash water how much sparge water to final volume of 5gallon do I need hops are halerau 20 grams saze hops 20grms yeast lager @ 12 Celsius also mash tempteture then bring to boil for 90 min help would be much appreciated
Hi Norman, Ive not brewed a clone of this beer before, so its impossible to advise fully. Volumes wise check out this video:- th-cam.com/video/vBjD124jkIo/w-d-xo.html
Another great video David. Would a beta-glucanase rest be ideal for brewing a hefeweizen? That's my main brew and I am a bit worried when I go all grain I'm going to be fighting with a stuck sparge every 2 weeks!
How much rice hulls would you say is sufficient for a Wheat bier with the following Grain Bill? 3,47 Kg pilsner malt 3,47 Kg Wheat malt 200 grams Red Ale Malt(melanoid malt)
+Cykelsnubben Cykelsnubben I wouldnt use any as you are under 60% which is really the start of the point that it becomes an issue. I am working on a video to do with this right now actually :)
Thanks for replying so quickly. I guess you're right David, I hadn't thought about that point. Like many, I'm just trying to find a way to shave a bit of time off my brew day. all the best.
Hi David, thank you for your informative fun video. We have brewed a reasonable Belgian Tripel with the following mash schedule. (65 c for 65 minutes and 75 c for 10 minutes) Now I would like to add some sweetness to the beer and based on the information in the video would like to introduce an intermediate step of 68 c for 30 minutes. (65 c for 35 min, 68 c for 30 min and 75 c for 10 minutes) Does that sound like a good move and should it result in a sweeter beer? Thanks in advance for your response!
@@DavidHeathHomebrew We are currently using the White Labs WLP500 for our Tripel with an Attenuation of 75-80% and do not know exactly under which category this falls. We are a bit confused with low / middle / high Attenuation yeast. Is there a standard for this? The internet often shows different standards.
Yes, the Internet is certainly not united on this and many other things. Attenuation for beer yeast is generally going to be between 65-85%. Low is around 65-70%. High is 80-85%, so middle is at 75%. With various Belgian styles inverted sugar is often used which will leave unfermtable sugars behind. Also the bitterness added via hops is usually low. So all this put together leads to a beer that tastes sweeter. Naturally the combination of all 3 gives the sweetest result but for many 2 out of 3 is enough.
Hi David. Excuse me for asking stupid questions, but I have to ask to be sure. The "mash out" step people do for about 10 minutes typically at 75 degrees, do the circulation pump still run for those 10 minutes ? And afterwards you shall sparge with 75 degrees water ? Is it important that you complete the whole sparging before you set the grainfather to a boil ? Because I noticed that my grainfather automaticly started to heat up to a boil after the "mash out time" was finished.
I am tinkering with the idea of a step mash for a helles with 100% floor matted bohemian pils malt, what would you suggest to get that good body for helles?
I have a problem/question that I just cannot figure out. Basically, my problem is all of my beers are finishing to dry. My FG reading seems to be always around 1.000, no matter what I do. I meticulously clean and sanitize. Keep my temp in range; I even bought a precise thermometer to check against the system. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hey, David! I'm doing BIAB, with an Anvil kettle. I use the kettle thermometer, which I've calibrated and recently started using a thermoworks probe thermometer to insert into the mash. I have noticed that the temperatures can be different in the two locations (kettle thermometer is lower than probe in mash), so I think the one in the mash would be the one to go by? I do stir every 15 minutes and if I need to add heat. The beers generally taste good and I guess how intended (since I have no way to compare to yours), with the exception of the NEIPA style. These are the beers where I notice the particular dryness and lack of body/"juiciness". Most recently, my goal for mash temp was 152; maybe I need to go higher? I've become really frustrated and determined to conquer it, so I just ordered stuff you recommended for small batch/trial sizes in an effort to discover and correct my mistake(s). My thought is if it is temp (likely?), the sous vide stick will immediately identify that problem. Any recommendations or thoughts are appreciated. Enjoy your trip to the states!
Thanks Scott, my flight out is early tomorrow morning. In regards to temp by location in the mash, this is normal. The new Brewzilla GEN 4 units address this with a couple of optional extras but I would be surprised if it is causing this. How are you measuring the gravity instrument wise? Are you using a hydrometer or refractometer?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have used both for OG and only a hydrometer for FG. Even if the numbers would be wrong, the proof is in the taste and thinness of the beer. Any thoughts?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Oh don't et me wrong, I definitely love the information and I am very much appreciative of your sharing it, My problem i that now i have even more stuff to take into consideration... I moved from Extract to All-Grain a while back (just following other peoples recipes), and now I'm malting my own grains and making my own decisions, and the rabbit hole is getting deeper and deeper... when does it stop. I liked it more when I was just following other peoples recipes (except my beer is better now that I'm making my own recipes).
David Heath Homebrew hey thanks for the kind advice. I’m really digging brewing with grain i’ve malted, roasted, and milled myself. And in a couple of months I will have my own home-grown barley to use as well. Can’t wait.
David Heath Homebrew hey one more question, should i expect lower efficiency with my own malt? Because i got quite low efficiency yesterday compared to bought malt. What should properties should i be looking for in grain to make sure i have a good grain for malting and brewing? I’ve been using stockfeed barley, because it’s readily available and very cheap.
Whaaaaaat? No, no. If I had not already guessed from your accent that you were not from the US, I would have been certain when I heard you suggest "acceptance of everyone's right to their own opinion." That's not the modern American way. Don't you know that you are supposed to demand that everyone else listen to your opinion and threaten or even use violence against anyone who does not agree with you?
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบรองชนะเลิศ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zPm8ClLVhoE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you David. You have taught me a lot about brewing. Even though I’m a veteran home brewer you have simplified a lot of information that I’d normally have to spend quite a while researching.
That is very pleasing to hear, it is one of my channels goals 🍻🍻🍻
Always my go to TRUSTED guide for brewing things! ❤❤❤
Cheers Greg, great to hear 🍻🍻🍻
I like the way you present the topics in your videos, it`s clean, simple and easy to understand. As an amateur brewer, your videos are very helpful, and they have saved me a lot of times👍
+Arnold Ovid Thanks alot Arnold, thats very good to hear :)
6 thumbs down? how can you not appreciate the effort and information that is so well presented for you?
Thanks Craig. Thats the internet for you :p
Self-learning The Brew, here; thanks for the video!
Great, glad you found it useful. I have a set of guides that I feel you would find useful here:- th-cam.com/play/PLeY07JqsrXM_biHp7Y3xIB7TnAY6Ru7pE.html&si=ResJ9aT6_nnvzw-a
Thanks again David for making us more up to date in how things work for home brewing
+Hans Winkels Thank you :)
Thanks for all the great vids Dave.
You have been a big influence in my all grain brewing and I really like your approach and generosity of knowledge .
Cheers, and keep em coming. Mark
Great to hear :) Thank you, more coming soon!
Once I start brewing, I will be very glad to send you a beer of every batch I brew. And thank you for another Great video.
David take note - Daniel would like reciprocation, of course .... purely to further his learning...:-)
+Daniel Smith Nice to know but not needed, I am swimming in beer here!
Well done! 👍🏼 Very easy to follow and looking forward to applying my newfound mash rest knowledge in palatable ways! 🍻
Thanks Noel, glad it was helpful! :)
this is so useful this channel is fantastic.
Great to hear, much appreciated 🍻🍻🍻
Thanks for the great, high quality videos you produce. As a new brewer with just about 10 all-grain brews, I am all ears. I have done two pilsners/lagers and they were drinkable and clear after a little lagering. My bag of Viking pilsner malt is running out so I got a bag of Floormalted Bohemian pilsner malt, which will bring me to the next stop on my journey for better beer, I hope. I might even have to try decoction mashing.
Great. The floor malted is a great way to go for flavour. I am not so sold on decoction mashing these days though.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I can understand why it is not necessary with modern malts, but I feel I need to travel that road, at least once, on my brewing journey. 🍻
Oh for sure you must try it, even if its just once 🍻
Another helpful easily understand video.Thanks.
Great, thank you. Glad it was helpful!
thanks David -more great information
Cheers Tim 🍻🍻🍻
Thanks David. Most useful in filling gaps I have. Scratch that. Had.
+Peter Scandlyn Awesome to hear Peter! More coming soon!
Very helpful, thanks. Love the dry humour too!
Thanks Dan, great to hear :)
Thanks again David....I found this very informative and educational.
Great :)
Yet another very informative video thanks David
+w fleming Thanks :) Much appreciated, glad you liked it :)
David Heath - "Pilsner diposal service" LOL Great information! Cheers! 🍻
Haha, the issue really is that I am not a big fan of lagers at all, some exceptions of course but in the main im an ales guy. I guess that comes through pretty loud when you look at what I am sharing video wise :)
David Heath LOL it just struck me funny.. Great video.. I'm definitely an ale man myself!! 👍🍻
haha, me 2 I am strictly an ale guy, ask me what happens when I make a lager and ill point you to a picture of my lager that went horribly wrong and say this is why I dont make lagers. I am a menace when it comes to lagers.
www.beersmith.com/forum/index.php/topic,16964.msg63882.html#msg63882
+chris kennedy haha
Thank you. This was very helpful.
Great to hear. Plenty more like this on my channel 🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Yes. I've been watching. Thanks.
🍻🍻🍻
This was super informative and super nice to listen to. Cheers mate
Thank you, I really appreciate your feedback. Hundreds more videos on my channel and new ones added every week :)
Very informative David. I can see myself rewatching this quite a few times.
Quite probably during my next all grain brew next week. Cheers 🍻
+inspirality Great to hear :)
Mycket intressant och lärorikt.
+Magnus Lindström tack så mycket :)
A+ Thank you very much for this simple guide.
Thanks Bob :)
Awesome bro,very useful
Thank you, I am glad that you found it useful 🍻
Love this great informative video! Really good stuff. cheers!
+Beer By The Numbers Awesome, thank you :)
hi David loved the video I have never done a two step mash and I think I have been missing out...my daft question I mash at 65 for one hour,do I just raise the temp to 75 after the one hour then sparg ..or do I mash at 75 for a specific time ??? hope this makes sense.
Thanks John. No problem. Usually you would reach 75 and then mash like this for 10 minutes for mash out. After that do your sparge. This 10 min step will help your sparge :)
Thanks for this one. I always wondered about what is the importance of the temp control in the mash tun.
+Andrew du Toit Glad you enjoyed it :)
Brilliant, as always, Thanks 🙏
Many thanks Allan :)
Thank you again for this way of explaining.
Great, thanks for the feedback :)
Tack! Very good and informative video.
+spectratos Thank you :) Glad you enjoyed it, plenty more on the channel :)
Hey David,
First of all, thanks a billion for all your great content. Totally love it and learned a lot from you.
I've been brewing with the Grainfather G40 now for a while, and am wondering if a potential top mash plate would be from any value. What do you think?
From what I expect, it could help diving the circulating wort a bit better on the grain bill, but at the same time you can't really stir on the bill when the plate is in place.
When using the G30 I also got rid of the top plate pretty often.
Looking forward to hear from you what you think!
Cheers from the 🇳🇱
M.
Hi Maarten,
Great to hear :)
The top plate for the G40 is very much optional. It is mostly there for holding larger grainbills in place. So really just relevant if you are maxing out the grain basket capacity.
I’ve experienced it once, with a large triple grainbill. The grains were floating through the two open holes on the top side of the basket. That was annoying and I’ve hacked by blocking the holes it with two small rubber hoses. But far from convenient.
I’ve noticed a big hole in the middle of the top plate (on a picture). Which means the grains will still go through. Right?
That I assume is the old top plate. The new one has no middle hole.
David, as I develop my home-brewing skills I keep coming back to your videos, rewatching them with "new eyes", extracting more and new value from them. I absolutely love your style, your didactic skills are through the hopping roof, and a fool who can't relish your dry humor. Please keep doing this forEVER. :D
To my question: would you have a book recommendation on these enzymatic processes? I'm not looking for a "You could be brewing your own beer!"-intro that's full of awesome pictures and product links. But I'm also not looking to write a PhD on the matter after having finished the book. A proper, scientific overview of the commonly known facts would be awesome. Sorry for being so oddly specific - I'm just trying to make it easy for you to possibly recommend a good read.
Thanks much for any consideration on this and have a great week.
Thank you, this is very good to hear :)
I believe John Palmer covers this well in his how to brew book, which is really a must read I would say.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ordering this blindly right away - thanks!
Its the one must read as I see it for homebrewers
@@DavidHeathHomebrew so I've gone through the first couple of chapters and thumbed through the rest - I understand why you would call it "the one must read for homebrewers". Incredibly impressive compendium of knowledge, thanks again for the recommendation.
I've also gotten myself a copy of Chris White's "Yeast" and am completely blown away by it. Of course you know it - but I'm leaving it here for others to maybe find it. :)
Great, yes it is a great book.
Riktigt bra video! Thanx for sharing this...
+Andreas Andersson Carlgren Thank you :) Glad you enjoyed it, plenty more on the channel :)
Dear David can i use 62/68 and 75 steps for Ale as well ? oh and since i found your channel i cant stress enough how much i enjoyed it , not only very knowledgeable but a true gentelmen !!! thank you for your videos and effort !
Thank you, much appreciated :) Yes no problem there. It is a profile for balance.
thanks for that another great vid
wouldn be interested to know what you think of mashing in at 72 and let it slowly cool to 60 - is this a reverse step mash? - if stove top brewing its easy to do
Hi Gary, great to hear.
If you start your mash at 72 then you will very quickly denature your key enzyme. Reducing the temperature will not have further effect.
High mash in steps are usually just used for beers where you want much sugars left behind to add body or sweetness. Stouts are the usual style for this.
thanks for the reply fella that probably explains why my beers have been turning out very sweet?@@DavidHeathHomebrew
@garyballared2077 Yes, it would have that effect.
A very informative vid David! Thanks for sharing! Cheers
+Beardy Brews Awesome, thanks for the feedback :)
Thanks David! Makes much more sense now :)
Thats fantastic to hear :)
brilliant, thanks
Thanks Paul, I am glad that you found it useful
Really informative, thanks! Would it be an issue to use the 50/60/70 Pilsner steps with an Ale receipe?
Not an issue as such, just that there will be little to gain
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David!
🍺🍺🍺
Thank you for your informative videos. I have a brewzilla version 3.1. I have been doing overnight mashes with the pump running slowly. When doing a step mash with a mash that long should the time at each temp be proportional (ex: 4 hrs at 143 and 154 with a mash out with the remaining time) or should the mash out be the largest chunk of time. I had come across that as an idea elsewhere but since learning the mash out is mostly just to loosen the grain for sparging it would seem that time would be better applied at the lower temps, correct?
I would suggest mash in being the longest time. Mash out can come later. The idea being you maximise effeciency.
Ok, that's pretty much what I was thinking. So maybe 6 hrs, 2 hrs and 15 minutes sound good for the 3 temps?
@noelhendricksonhome7305 You mash out temp can just be ten minutes. There is no value in much longer.
yes, I meant to say 10 min for mash out. Just to confirm, going with 2 hrs at 143 and 6 hrs or something similar proportionally at 154 should work well.@@DavidHeathHomebrew
Ok great 🍻🍻🍻
Thank you, very informative!
Would you have a typical mash temperature scheme for Ale ? Thanks :-)
Thank you. The most common is 65C for 1hr and 75C for 10 mins.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David 👍🍺
:)
sounds good, but the question is should you stir it or not??
It will not do any harm if you stir during the mash, even if you have recirculation.
Great work! I enjoyed this video a lot! Thanks!!!
+Davide Mangili Thats great to hear, thank you :)
Great vid man! I thought the shortened style of your Red-X IPA video was a bit uncouth but this was spot on David Heath style that I appreciate.
🍻🍻🍻
Hi David
I recently received a 10lbs order of 2-Row. Documents included recommend "To Improve Clarity Perform A Protein Rest". Do you think this helps??
Its pretty old school these days. There are various other ways to drop a beer bright. A protein rest will not hurt but I do not see that it would be needed.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Kinda what I thought too!! Thank you for your continued help!!
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻😎😎😎
Thank you for the video. When you were talking about you favorite Pilsner schedule, do you do 30 min @ 143 and 30 min @ 154 or 30 mins combined (15mins each)?
Glad you found it useful :) 30 mins at each of the two temperatures for an hour in total.
Hey, David.
I have a question. I am currently using mash&boil when I am doing the mash-out (recipe calls for 60min @69C and 10min @78), do I need to raise the water temp. immediatly by adding a calculated amount of hot water, or can I use the units in-built heating element to gradually get to 78 and keep it there?
Thank you!
Usually the process is to change the temperature on the brewing system after the 60 minutes step. Wait until the temperature is reached and then start counting the 10 minutes. After this you are ready for the next step which is usually going to be to add Sparge water of a similar temperature to your second step. Hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew this little bit of advice has answered a big question for me, thanks!
Great to hear :)
Hi David,
Love your videos. Are you aware of any upcoming new version of the Grainfather?
Plan to buy one and just want to be sure that there is not a new one that will be in the market in the next half year...
Thanks
+ltcomstar Not that Ive been told about, no. I don’t see the need, upgrades are always things that can be added on alot like the filter and connect for example :)
Thanks
Grandfather is great and all but I own a robobrew, same build quality for half the cost, the only difference is that it lacks bluetooth but why the fuck should I care about a recipe creator and what not....
I can do that on beer smith so im not going to pay more for nothing better.
+chris kennedy I guess its more about the controller being smart than anything else but its all about choices. You can use my recipes and advice the same way with other systems for the most part.
Hi David, and thanks for your videos! I was used to sparge at 80ºC after a single mash step at 67ºC (heating water at 72ºC before adding the malt, which will result in 65-67ºC). Following your videos (as the SweetChili and others), and this, your method goes in 2 step mash (mashin mashout) mostly, which makes more sense in order to get the most of the grains. In this case... what would be the right temp for the sparging process?
Thanks, I am glad that you are enjoying them :) I usually mash out and sparge at 75C.
Thanks very informative
+Andrew Kite Thanks for the feedback :)
Hi David I have the Grainfather with the new connect now iv noticed and not sure if I should do the same as Brewers that use the mash tun coolbox method but most that use the coolbox method use a higher strike heat to get nearer there proper mash temperature they require and should I wait till I get the temperature for mash before I put the grain In also should I wait till I get a full rolling boil before I add the hops thank norman
Hi Norman. It really depends on which version you are using. If its the US version then due to the power limitations then I would heat higher than mash in temps in due to the time it takes. If you are on a 220-240v system then there is less to worry about. I live in Norway with 220v and I just shoot for the desired temp. It drops a little after adding my grain but within a little time its back where it should be. In terms of the boil I wait until the unit tells me I have hit the boil (100 deg c) I then clear the protein head (I show this in most brew videos) and as long as I am at 100 still I start the timer. Homebrew is not an exact science but I do what I can :)
For your favorite Pils schedule is it 30m at 143', another 30m at 154' and then 10m at 167'? What rate of water to grain weight? Thank you.
This ratio will vary but I use the calculation of 3L of water to 1kg of grain.
Hi David got a tricky lager to brew it’s a tenants lager clone ( Scottish beer) so I’ll give you as much information as I can hope you might be able to work out for me so here goes
Uk lager malt 4.5 kilos flaked rice 1.4 kilos using Grainfather how much mash water how much sparge water to final volume of 5gallon do I need hops are halerau 20 grams saze hops 20grms yeast lager @ 12 Celsius also mash tempteture then bring to boil for 90 min help would be much appreciated
Hi Norman, Ive not brewed a clone of this beer before, so its impossible to advise fully. Volumes wise check out this video:- th-cam.com/video/vBjD124jkIo/w-d-xo.html
Another great video David. Would a beta-glucanase rest be ideal for brewing a hefeweizen? That's my main brew and I am a bit worried when I go all grain I'm going to be fighting with a stuck sparge every 2 weeks!
+Ross A Cairns Yes thats a time to use it, though a small amount of rice hulls will work wonders :)
How much rice hulls would you say is sufficient for a Wheat bier with the following Grain Bill?
3,47 Kg pilsner malt
3,47 Kg Wheat malt
200 grams Red Ale Malt(melanoid malt)
Cykelsnubben Cykelsnubben you shouldn't need much as the wheat is under 50% of the grain bill.
+Cykelsnubben Cykelsnubben I wouldnt use any as you are under 60% which is really the start of the point that it becomes an issue. I am working on a video to do with this right now actually :)
Hi David, have you tried multi-step mashing overnight with the grandfather? I'd really be interested to see a video on that.
I would be concerned on the wear on the pump. Seems to me this is an easy way to shorten the life of it.
Thanks for replying so quickly. I guess you're right David, I hadn't thought about that point. Like many, I'm just trying to find a way to shave a bit of time off my brew day. all the best.
No problem John :)
Hi David, thank you for your informative fun video. We have brewed a reasonable Belgian Tripel with the following mash schedule. (65 c for 65 minutes and 75 c for 10 minutes) Now I would like to add some sweetness to the beer and based on the information in the video would like to introduce an intermediate step of 68 c for 30 minutes. (65 c for 35 min, 68 c for 30 min and 75 c for 10 minutes) Does that sound like a good move and should it result in a sweeter beer? Thanks in advance for your response!
Thank you. I would go 62//68/75. Be sure to back this up with a middle attenuating yeast.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew We are currently using the White Labs WLP500 for our Tripel with an Attenuation of 75-80% and do not know exactly under which category this falls. We are a bit confused with low / middle / high Attenuation yeast. Is there a standard for this? The internet often shows different standards.
Yes, the Internet is certainly not united on this and many other things. Attenuation for beer yeast is generally going to be between 65-85%. Low is around 65-70%. High is 80-85%, so middle is at 75%. With various Belgian styles inverted sugar is often used which will leave unfermtable sugars behind. Also the bitterness added via hops is usually low. So all this put together leads to a beer that tastes sweeter. Naturally the combination of all 3 gives the sweetest result but for many 2 out of 3 is enough.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your help, we are one step closer to our perfect Triple ;-)
I have a full guide to the Tripel (one of my favourites ) coming on Sunday. I hope you find this interesting. There are many more pointers there.
Hi David. Excuse me for asking stupid questions, but I have to ask to be sure. The "mash out" step people do for about 10 minutes typically at 75 degrees, do the circulation pump still run for those 10 minutes ? And afterwards you shall sparge with 75 degrees water ? Is it important that you complete the whole sparging before you set the grainfather to a boil ? Because I noticed that my grainfather automaticly started to heat up to a boil after the "mash out time" was finished.
No problem at all. Yes keep the pump on throughout. Boil heating wise its fine for this to start while you sparge. It saves time :)
David Heath thanks for the clearification :-)!
I am tinkering with the idea of a step mash for a helles with 100% floor matted bohemian pils malt, what would you suggest to get that good body for helles?
You could use the old traditional “Hochkurz step mash” 1) 144°F/62°C - 30 mins 2) 158°F/70°C - 30 mins 3) 170°F/77°F - 10 mins. Hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew going to give it a whirl , thanks David
Are you supposed to pause your timer while you increase temperature between mash steps?
Hi, yes. Each step has its own time but heat up times are not included.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew excellent, thanks
:)
Would your pilsner mash schedule work for Belgian Pilsner malt
Yes, no problem.
I have a problem/question that I just cannot figure out. Basically, my problem is all of my beers are finishing to dry. My FG reading seems to be always around 1.000, no matter what I do. I meticulously clean and sanitize. Keep my temp in range; I even bought a precise thermometer to check against the system. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance
Hi Scott, how are you measuring this and with what type of device? Do the beers taste that dry?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hey, David! I'm doing BIAB, with an Anvil kettle. I use the kettle thermometer, which I've calibrated and recently started using a thermoworks probe thermometer to insert into the mash. I have noticed that the temperatures can be different in the two locations (kettle thermometer is lower than probe in mash), so I think the one in the mash would be the one to go by? I do stir every 15 minutes and if I need to add heat. The beers generally taste good and I guess how intended (since I have no way to compare to yours), with the exception of the NEIPA style. These are the beers where I notice the particular dryness and lack of body/"juiciness". Most recently, my goal for mash temp was 152; maybe I need to go higher? I've become really frustrated and determined to conquer it, so I just ordered stuff you recommended for small batch/trial sizes in an effort to discover and correct my mistake(s). My thought is if it is temp (likely?), the sous vide stick will immediately identify that problem. Any recommendations or thoughts are appreciated. Enjoy your trip to the states!
Thanks Scott, my flight out is early tomorrow morning. In regards to temp by location in the mash, this is normal. The new Brewzilla GEN 4 units address this with a couple of optional extras but I would be surprised if it is causing this. How are you measuring the gravity instrument wise? Are you using a hydrometer or refractometer?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have used both for OG and only a hydrometer for FG. Even if the numbers would be wrong, the proof is in the taste and thinness of the beer. Any thoughts?
My guess would be wild yeast. Not much you can do about either sadly.
I chuckled with the Acid Rest joke :)
Haha :)
Is it true a protein test helps with clarity
Yes, though there are various other methods for clarity also. Check this out:- th-cam.com/video/xwtJtBAj5uY/w-d-xo.html
After watching this i have more questions than answers... onwards the journey goes
Its a massive topic for sure. This gives a grounding in the basics. Should be enough for homebrew though.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Oh don't et me wrong, I definitely love the information and I am very much appreciative of your sharing it, My problem i that now i have even more stuff to take into consideration...
I moved from Extract to All-Grain a while back (just following other peoples recipes), and now I'm malting my own grains and making my own decisions, and the rabbit hole is getting deeper and deeper... when does it stop. I liked it more when I was just following other peoples recipes (except my beer is better now that I'm making my own recipes).
Great but yes I see your point. I would suggest not over thinking it at this point. Just get used to the process and then look further in :)
David Heath Homebrew hey thanks for the kind advice. I’m really digging brewing with grain i’ve malted, roasted, and milled myself. And in a couple of months I will have my own home-grown barley to use as well. Can’t wait.
David Heath Homebrew hey one more question, should i expect lower efficiency with my own malt? Because i got quite low efficiency yesterday compared to bought malt. What should properties should i be looking for in grain to make sure i have a good grain for malting and brewing? I’ve been using stockfeed barley, because it’s readily available and very cheap.
Whaaaaaat? No, no. If I had not already guessed from your accent that you were not from the US, I would have been certain when I heard you suggest "acceptance of everyone's right to their own opinion." That's not the modern American way. Don't you know that you are supposed to demand that everyone else listen to your opinion and threaten or even use violence against anyone who does not agree with you?
Haha, thats never been my way :)