First the radiation is on the dust not in the air unless the dust is in the air. Also radiation is not a chemical, so you do not need the charcoal. All you need is the filter to keep the dust out. remember the radiation is on the dust and dirt. .
I agree the HPEA filter removes the bulk of the radioactive contamination. However, radiation is not on the dust. Rather radioactive isotopes can combine with dust but some doesn’t. The radiation comes from the radioactive isotopes which are chemicals. Although the charcoal will filter some of the particles, that is not the primary function of the charcoal. Some of the fission products of a nuclear detonation and even more from a nuclear power plant are fission product gases. The HEPA filter does not remove these gases. So one reason there is charcoal for a nuclear event is to hold the fission product gases until they decay to fission product particles which can then be captured by the HEPA filter. So the HEPA filter is the most important part but the charcoal makes it more effective. Also this filter is also designed from chemical and biological events. The design is the same.
Thanks for sharing this filtration idea. You can make your own activated charcoal from hardwood bbq charcoal. Radon is a gas that is radioactive. Your shelter is blow ground where radon is known to naturally creep up through even concrete foundations. We’re getting from all sides!
@@ruidadgmailcanada8508 thanks for the reply. The activated charcoal I’ve seen made is questionable on it’s effectiveness. There maybe a way but I would want to be able to test it. I think I saw a good video on TH-cam where a chemist tried to make it but when testing it he found it wasn’t really very effective. So just be ware. Also we do get naturally occurring radioactive radon from the ground in many areas but this is a very long term exposure issue and the levels are very very low. The test for radon has you put a couple of absorption material in the basement and leave them for 90 days just to collect enough for the testing. In fact to reduce the levels in homes they will use a blower to take a suction from under the floor of the basement or crawl space and just vent it outside with no filters. If your sheltering due to an emergency the basement is typically but not always your safest area. Of course everyone has to evaluate their own situation.
@@ruidadgmailcanada8508 Activated charcoal requires a specific protocol, it is not cahrcoal from BBQ at all. Aquarrium pellets work fine against organic vapor, at least (tested agaisnt fumes from a burnt down industrial site)
@@edwardjackson9791 A team from an US university succeeded to make activated charcoal with low expense common items, for Latin low income polluted areas - aimed to filter the polluted water. Worked fine. agaisnt acid gases and other stuff, more difficult, components must be added ...
I love the design of the pump. Couple thoughts/concerns. 1. Most people will not have electricity after a nuclear detonation so how do you plan to power it? 2. Would the benefit really be there? By pumping air pressure into the house in one location it seems like you could potentially cause additional inward suction of dust into the house if the pressure isn't equalized throughout the space. Seems like just not disturbing the air might be a safer option. 4. Assuming that you plan to hunker down for a couple weeks at least I would be a bit concerned that the noise of the unit could draw attention from looters who were not educated on how long they need to stay inside. Im not intending to poo poo the idea. I am just wondering if you have thought about these things.
I plan on making more detailed videos thanks for your questions I’ll try to quickly address them. 1. This is not just for nuclear attacks but is also good for nuclear power plant events and biological and chemical events. Also due to the design of the blower you can manually draw air through it with a manual bellows style air pump. This will also allow quiet operations if needed. 2. It would best be used in an area within the house that is sealed off so air flow would be to a room or two to maintain air quality in that area. If operated in manual mode you would just be able to replenish the air and manage the CO2 and humidity in your shelter area. A CO2 monitor would be very important. I will post some new videos soon and hopefully touch on your question and others. Just to let you know this is the basic design of NBC filters used at nuclear plant for protection of the control room and other areas for personnel protection. It has the same functional characteristics but at a rudimentary level.
Solar panels produce power from radiation so you you get a boost!! seriously solar panels to run it would need to have battery backup system to support it overnight or cloudy day's. The big problem with Solar panels is they do get dust covered and it seriously reduces input power. You would also need a reasonable inverter to run the motor as inductive loads on cheap inverters can cause failures. Use lithium batteries as they don't produce hydrogen from charging, you could put the lead acid ones outside but if you get a problem? positive pressure ventilation system is best and a basement would be good. I live in the mountains of Spain off grid on everything. I like the idea of the filter system. Thanks for your time and work.
@@barrymayson2492 Depends on how much you're willing to spend on solar panels, Cause my solar panels on a cloudy day draw 60% of what they would on a Sunny day, Severe rainstorms is another story, I got enough batteries to run my bunker for 7 days without any power, I I don't have hundreds of batteries, depends on how much you're willing to spend Is the quality you get,
You can hook up a manual bellows to the discharge of the blower and provide air flow manually. However, it will not keep your shelter area at a positive pressure long. It would provide filtered air for makeup though. I plan on a follow up video soon to discuss more detail on how to provide a safer protected area.
@@edwardjackson9791 I'm planning a very small filter/fan setup on 12v and hook it up on a solar panel and a battery. Just to provide clean air and overpressure in a small room or basement until they get the power back up.
This is a great design. Love the bucket. Thanks for this idea. I'm not worried about charcoal but use a 12v motor and place it INSIDE the bucket, with only the exhaust coming from the bucket - fewer areas to worry about sealing up on/around the motor. Also consider the type of fan as most blade fans don't do well under the load of filtering. Impeller fans do pretty good.
The HEPA filter for a nuclear even is very effective. The activated charcoal helps with fission product gases but also makes the design a chemical and biological filter. The activated charcoal adsorption of chemicals and biologicals helps clean up the incoming air. The air fan for this is a squirrel cage design and provides very high flow rates, actually I would have to block about 80% of the flow to allow for effective contact time as the air flows through the activated charcoal. That allows more contact time for the adsorption in the activated charcoal. Thanks for the feedback👍
Solar panels produce power from radiation so you you get a boost!! seriously solar panels to run it would need to have battery backup system to support it overnight or cloudy day's. The big problem with Solar panels is they do get dust covered and it seriously reduces input power. You would also need a reasonable inverter to run the motor as inductive loads on cheap inverters can cause failures. Use lithium batteries as they don't produce hydrogen from charging, you could put the lead acid ones outside but if you get a problem? positive pressure ventilation system is best and a basement would be good. I live in the mountains of Spain off grid on everything. I like the idea of the filter system. Thanks for your time and work.
You Will really needed a manual air mover as a last resort. Power would be nice but not always possible. I made a video on a simple hand operated air mover that could easily hooked to the discharge of the blower as could a dc blower. Positive pressure would be hard to maintain with a hand pump but at least you could control makeup air flow through the filter. Thanks for the comment.
Edward, could you also please explain the installation process in the shelter? Additionally, how does one use the system manually in the absence of light? Have you created any videos demonstrating these processes?
I have done other videos on what you asked about just look at the videos on my channel. But it would be best to install it outside the shelter I’m a protected area for example if your shelter is in the basement installing the filter in the garage would protect it and you would not have to exit the house if something needs adjusted. There are many ways to manually pull air through the filter. I did a video on one I built with a large PCV pipe and connections. Again if you look at my videos on my channel you can find them. I don’t have that many.
Awesome information. I wish i could see the inside of the charcoal filter. Also at approx 8:20, whats a .25 inch of water pressure? Not sure if you mispoke (maybe mot, im utterly ignorant of this subject). Maybe something to do with positive air pressure? Also, what percentage of the time would these need to run? I'm thinking at this level of emergency wed have to assume no power and wed be looking at car batteries and inverters or something. Thanks again for the info! Liked/subscribed.
The .25 inch of water is a good pressure to make sure to don’t have unfiltered air in your safe space. If you keep the inside air pressure .25 inch of water above outside air pressure it will prevent in leakage. If you look at my channel I have another video covering just the filter. It has an orange bucket in the video. Also I did one on how to set it up and another on a cheap way to make a hand air pump. If you can’t manage a .25 inch of water you can just try to only bring air in through a filter so all make up air is filtered. Thanks for the comment.
Just to clarify a common misunderstanding about nuclear contamination. The air itself is perfectly safe. It's the DUST and particles floating on the air that are dangerous. If you see heavy fallout particles on the ground, but the air is clear, then it's perfectly safe to breathe the air without a filter as long as you don't disturb the dust on the ground, or there's no wind kicking it up. The risk is when the "lighter" smaller particules fall or hang in the air. These are actually so small that even if you do inhale them, lifetime exposure is fairly low, only about 2 rads. Of course, it's better to NOT inhale them at all, but treating the air like literal poison is a big inconvenience and can do you more harm than good if for example you need to move out of an area due to heavy ground fallout, but you are too scared to move thinking the air is dangerous. The filter in the video will work, of course, but most of the time it will be un-necessary unless there's heavy wind and lots of airborne dust.
For a nuclear detonation like a bomb you are for the most part correct. For a nuclear power plant there will be much more fission product gases which will be the big portion of the exposure. The hepa filter is the part that removes most of the dust. The activated charcoal the gases. So for a nuclear attack where you are trying to survive then exposure of
@@edwardjackson9791 of course the filter itself is very effective from the looks of it. And if there is a chemical or radiological reak the charcoal will help.
2 Rads IS NOT a trivial dose. It won't kill you dead immediately, maybe not before something else gets a chance to, but the whole idea behind survivalism is to have the best chance to survive that you have. Obviously a 2 rad dose in an area that gets 3, 4, 500 rads is going to help you a lot. But if you're in an area that takes a direct hit you might be better off getting smoked immediately because there won't be any help coming to save you.
This is a really great idea. One question please: If there is nuclear fallout it will accumulate on ground. So having that bucket sit on the ground is going to expose you to those accumulated radioactive particles more. Wouldn't it be better to set that bucket a few feet off the ground to avoid that situation?
Yes but inside an enclosure like a garage would really help. An elevated position is a good idea also if you have to have it outside. Thanks for the comment.
do you not want the inlet and outlet switched so the filter stays indoors to keep out sound and then have the inlet on a hose so you can more discreetly route it? others will hear your filter and come wanting it
You could but that would place the filter inside closer to you and that would expose you to more radiation from the filter. There are many ways to position the filter you just have to think through the consequences. Thanks for the comment.
I would like to see a video on adding manual bellows if that's feasible for you to do. Also, considering that I have very little idea of how any of this works-- I am only learning through your demonstration, could you explain the last portion of this video when you talk about water? Thank you so much! Great video.
Thank you for the comment. If you look at my channel I build a simple air pump with 6 inch pvc drain pipe which can be used basically as a bellows. The water I talk about is a measure of differential pressure normally used on HVAC systems. If you have a filter for example and measure the pressure difference from one side to the other it is in inches of water. So if you take a clear piece of tubing and make a loop (like a p trap under a sink) in it and connect it to the inlet and outlet of the filter then water when air flow goes through the filter the water in the tube will displace based on the inlet and outlet pressure. If you measure the difference in the water level with a ruler it gives you the inch of water. There are plenty of TH-cam videos. Here is one. th-cam.com/video/DdK8g5X_XAo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LMQJuRvbp7HkEekM
The fan I used was not a shop vac but that could be used. The full flow would likely be way too much. The air needs to be in contact with the activated charcoal for about .25 seconds or more so you can throttle the discharge to reduce the flow. I used an old squirrel cage fan from an old gas furnace. If you look at the other videos on my channel I cover manual operation and some design ideas. The good part of the squirrel cage design is there is little resistance to air flow and if you need the manually operate a air pump it is much easier to pump air through. Thanks for the questions.
Could you make a video on how to go from the electric blower to the manual air pump you made? I would love to see them work either in tandem or having the manual used as a backup system. I am thinking of making my own system and seeing yours helped me come up with ideas. Maybe a smoke test or practical application would be neat to see as well 😊 awesome work.
If your fan/blower has an open impeller design like a squirrel cage or propeller type you can just draw the air flow through the blower. So all you need to do is attach a non-collapsible hose to the exhaust of the blower to the suction of your manual air pump. You will want to insure there are no leaks between the manual air pump and the electric blower so you are not drawing in contaminated air bypassing the filter. I may be able to put together a simple test.
Very well done. I was looking for a filter, which seems about the right time if not too late, and I was not able to find anything to my liking other than binding an NBC gasmask cartridge filter to a bilge blower, but that's so small and all. This is pretty great, I might give this a try. Did you have any other ideas before starting on this system? Thanks!
Yes I was going to do another video and update the filter. I took the hepa filter and turned it upside down and glued it to the outlet of the charcoal filter. This has backward air flow through the hepa but it will not really change the filtering. It makes the filter elements fit in a 5 gal bucket and is easier to change out filters if needed. The parts are all the same but it is much easier to build. It allows more flexibility in the way you provide the air flow. The blower I used was 120 Vac but you will probably need some form of manual air movement like a bellows arrangement. Removing the hepa filter from the lid makes this much easier.
@@edwardjackson9791 I can see the advantage of that, on the other side, the activated charcoal, I'll have more to say on that in your new video, is there to catch the rare radioactive gasses released from the radioactive material from what I understood while the hepa does the filtering. So if you follow that reasoning, you want some charcoal on both sides of the hepa (hepa 14 or 13), but at least after the hepa. The Hepa catches the fall out material and the charcoal absorbs the gasses released from the radioactive material that is stuck in the hepa. So you need to charcoal the air after the hepa. I would also have charcoal on the other side just for when you shut off the filter to replace it, the charcoal on both sides will keep absorbing the gasses to some degree while you expose of the unit. I'll report some more findings at your new video when I find the time.
@@denniskatinas this is the design used at nuclear plants as far as order of filtering. The ones at the nuclear plants are much more complex which makes them much more efficient. But the actual process is the same. Fission releases fission product gases in a predictable pattern. The gases pass through the hepa filter and are not trapped because they are gas and not particles. The inlet filter sometimes are hepa filters to capture particles before the activated charcoal bed. The gases that enter the activated charcoal beds are held up due to the enormous surface area of the charcoal. This causes the fission product gases to take a very long time to work their way through the charcoal bed. During this long time period the fission product gases decay into fission particles. The particles that exit the charcoal bed are then captured buy the exhaust hepa filter that can now capture and hold them. The inlet filter on some units are hepa and some they are not. They key is to have a hepa filter after the charcoal bed for maximum effectiveness. But that being said there is no reason you could not put filters in series for added filtering. This design is by no means perfect but will help a bad situation be not as bad.
@@edwardjackson9791 Thanks for the feedback, you bring up some interesting points here, I may have made the mistake of believing the gasses en particles pass through the filter at the same speed as the air does. The gases breaking down into particles was also unknown to me. I was planning to have multiple hepa's in series, just to be sure. Also, the charcoal is another point for me, activated charcoal used in nuclear plants is treated with ZincChloride and heated to catch way more particles and gasses, you're everyday household charcoal isn't as effective, actually, the difference is big, so I think I'll go with bigger charcoal beds just in case, since making the ZnCl2 treated charcoal is tricky to make and get right. Well, back to the drawing board, thanks again.
My bilge blower runs 130 cfm, that's pretty substantial for the small space I am working with. It would be adequate to exchange the air in my shelter completely about every 10 minutes. And it's fairly quiet.
I will try it. I'm gonna put it in a room full of tear gas and connect a hose going outside and test the fresh air side to get an idea how well it will work and how often the charcoal will need replacing after contamination.
Sounds good. One thing is make sure your flow rate is low, just enough that would keep the area you would be in to about 0.25 inches of water above outside air pressure. The contaminated air needs to be in contact with the activated charcoal for at least 1/4 of a second to remove the contamination. So, too high of flow rate would not allow the contact time needed. Thanks for the comment.
to avoid the lack of electricity you make a generator with neodymium magnets ( I show how a transformed car alternator works on my channel ) moved by a bicycle to be able to charge the batteries in relation to the filter to avoid any air pollution before the filter that you present here you have to pass the air through water for example; How do you oxygenate water in aquariums? the water itself filters the air from the radiation in the dust and after this process put this filter
The water will filter some but the fission product gases will pass right through and a percentage of the small particles also. It also will add a good deal of back pressure to overcome.
Could you use a shop vacuum for a in-line charcoal filter on the on-take side? A secondary filter could be attached to the outlet tube. Also a pre-filter before the charcoal filter made to be changed readily! I would think that placing your filter outside after a NBC event would open up you and your shelter to contaminates. I'm assuming that you're planning on being in a bunker of some sort since most houses are far from being air tight, perhaps having a long horizontal (4"+ diameter) PVC pipe (or two) with a 180 degree elbow at the top end with a wire filter to block out larger particles. Perhaps a water trap could be incorporated into the system before the vacuum cleaner. I don't know if a hand crank could be attached to the top of the vacuum motor for manual turning!
There are many ways to make the filter so a vacuum could be used. The important design though is that the contaminated air all goes through the filter elements and there is no bypass flow. A pre filter is a good idea and I call that a roughing filter. Having the filter outside of you bunker or safe area is important in that the filter my become a radiation source because the contaminated material will concentrate in the filter. It can be located inside the house but away from your safe area, like in the garage. The filters used at nuclear plants don’t us a water filter because they are ineffective for gases and introduce a large differential pressure that has to be overcome by the fan or blower.
Problem is your filter will be radioactive. Can't change it without getting fatal dose of radiation. If your filter is in doors near you, then you gotta shield yourself from the filter or housing.
Every filter will be radioactive if used to filter radioactive fallout. This type of filter will probably not need to be changed out for a single event. It should last for several weeks or months. Yes you need to have it far away, like outside or very well shielded if inside. If the filter adsorbs radioactive contamination that could give you a lethal dose when changing it you probably have already received a lethal dose from the event. You must remember the filter is decaying just like the radioactive fallout. It is a fairly rapid decay. So the filter will last several weeks and changing will be unlikely and if it is needed a lethal dose is not a real possibility again unless the contamination radiation levels were so high that you would have already received a lethal dose from fallout itself. Thanks for the comment.
Question. When you are isolating from the blast. Would you run this device all the time? And how long will it run before you have to change the hepa filter or the charcoal? Thanks.
If you have power which is unlikely you run it to maintain about .25 inch water pressure in your shelter if you can. This would be ideal. However, you are not likely to have power. Then you just make sure as much as possible that the makeup air you draw in (like via a mechanical bellows) comes through the filter. As for the time it will last, as long as you are able to draw air through it, the filter should be good, “If” you have it where it is not drawing in very dirty air (like an elevated area or have a good pre filter) it should last for weeks. The one we used at our nuclear plant for our control room building was designed for at last 30 days and the filter and carbon would probably fit inside a 55 gallon drum and they were designed for continuous flow. They also were designed to maintain a .25 inch water pressure in the control building. Thanks for the comment and questions.👍
I'm going to try something like this. I was able to get some free buckets from a local restaurant, they're square but I don't see what difference that will make. There's no way I am going to try to use a shop-vac motor though, that is too loud and obnoxious. I'm going to use a 12v inline bilge blower for a boat and solar panels for the electricity. I've got most of what I need except for exhaust hose because my plan is to take outside air from a protected location, run it through my shelter and have it flow back outside so I am not drawing in radioactivity into my home.
Good idea. The shape of the bucket or container really doesn’t matter as long as you don’t have leakage past the filter media. The only requirement for flow rate is it provides enough makeup to supply your shelter with makeup O2. The air flow should be in contact with the activated charcoal flow >0.25 seconds. So slow flow is better if it provides the correct amount of makeup O2. I bought a CO2 monitor to check the air in our area.
Best place is outside under cover but inside like a garage would work. You just have to realize it will be drawing contamination inside the area you put it. Also away from people. The filter itself may become radioactive as it filters and present a radiation hazard. Thanks for the question 👍
Yes I know but the filter is an NBC filter and could be used when the grid is still available. I did a video of a manual air pump that could be connected to the discharge of the blower and would be able to pull air through the blower. You could also use a dc powered blower. I also did a video diagraming a way to set it up to supply your shelter. Thanks for your comment.👍
Your entire contraption has to be in the contaminated environment. Your intake needs to come from a distance so you’re not handling contaminated hardware when you have to reseal or repair.
Correct. The filter should be in an area that is outside the bunker and will likely be in the contaminated area. The filter will become a radiation source as it filters the radioactive material. So, you have to preplan how to handle it before you place it. It would be best to have it under cover from the elements but in a location you can stay away from until you are ready to move it to a more secure location following the event.
The blower is open and a manual bellows can be attached to the discharge. Manual operation can be used to draw air through the filter and provided. Not all events will have a grid down scenario. The design was to show the concept. Implementation will be dependent on actual conditions.
Not all nuclear events will have a loss of power. Nuclear power plant events can occur without the loss of the grid. However, the design allows you to connect a manual operated air pump if needed. I made a video on a simple manual air pump that can use for air flow. Also if you have a dc power source you can connect dc powered blowers to the discharge of the blower. My intent was to show a design that could be made in expensively. I looked up the current price of a “safe cell” NBC filter which are functionally the same and they run around $4000 and were out of stock.
I did another video on building the activated charcoal filter which adds some detail. The import thing is to build it so there is no bypass flow around the filter elements and the fan has no holes that would allow unfiltered air to be drawn into the fan without going through the filters. Thanks for the comment.
Not quite sure what you mean, but going outside would not be the best idea. Unless you are within a couple of miles of a nuclear detonation you are likely to survive by sheltering and controlling the makeup air you bring into you living area. Within 48 hours outside radiation levels will not be immediate life threatening. Nuclear detonations are really a local event and radiation levels drop rapidly. There is much less long lived radioactive isotopes produced during a nuclear detonation than a power plant event due the smaller mass that becomes irradiated. Even during a nuclear plant event like Fukushima sheltering will protect you. Long term there may be issues but the less exposure you get the better. Leaving the area is not likely during a nuclear detonation and depending on the area it may not be possible during a nuclear plant event, depending on traffic and lead time from notification.
I understand the ingenuity. but if a nuclear bomb goes off the radiation is not only in the dust that will be traveling in the wind. It is also attached to atoms that are floating around which are microscopic that will pass through your filters. The best thing to do is to take iodine liquid drops to fill up your thyroid because you will be in contact with radiation no matter what The question is how much ..so on a microscopical scale your air filter is useless
Yes some radioactive will pass through the filter. No filter is 100% effective. The point of a filter is to reduce the radioactivity you receive to a level that is not unacceptably high. Radiation does not attach to atoms it is the property of the atom itself. The decay of a particular atomic isotope is where the ionizing radiation comes from. (i.e. Beta decay, Alpha Decay, or gamma decay) The way these type filters work is the activated charcoal has a massive surface area (small pours which trap the atoms for a time, then the atom may escape only to be trapped in another pour) This holdup time allows the atoms to decay to stable atoms which are no longer radioactive or to become radioactive particles. HEPA filters will not trap gases, that is why the charcoal is first. The fission product gases are trapped in the charcoal long enough to decay to particulates which can be trapped by the HEPA filter. As far as iodine is concerned, this is a big misconception. Yes, radioactive iodine is a fission produce but it is only one of many. The thyroid does take up iodine and it helps to saturate your system with none radioactive iodine to help prevent up taking radioactive iodine into your thyroid but it is only recommended for people less than 40 years old. It is a long term issue. There are many other fission products produced other than iodine. This filter design is the design used at nuclear power plants to maintain habitability of critical areas like the Control Room, Reactor Building, and Emergency Command and Control facilities. Although those systems are more sophisticated in design and function, the process is the same. Use activated charcoal to hold up the radioactive atoms until they decay into particulate or stable atoms and HEPA filter to remove particulates. This issuance of KI (potassium Iodine) is way, way down on the emergency procedures at nuclear plants.
@@edwardjackson9791 Charcoal = Protection agaisnt subproducts of the blast and fires, as toxic fumes, soot, VOC etc. Lot of toxic chemicals in our modern environment. A french engineer from a facility designing pro shelters for industry, administration (and wealthy individual) explained me why.
I’m not sure what you’re saying there? Are you saying you can’t hear me mumbling or because I’m mumbling you can understand, or can’t hear me because someone is mumbling too loud? Appreciate the feedback but not sure what to fix.
If you look up the design of NBC (Nuclear, Chemical, Biological) filters. This is the process that is used. This is the same design we used at nuclear power plants for our emergency filter systems in the event of an event. The control room, reactor building, emergency command and control center each had a filter system designed like this, of course those cost hundreds of thousands of dollars but the process was the same. Based on specific design requirements there were some variations like some would have Hepa-charcoal-hepa but others were just like this. The key in building your on is to make sure that you have no leakage paths from the filter to the suction of your air pump (electric or manual) if you are not drawing the air through your filter you can suck in contaminated air bypassing the filter. Minor air leaks like around bearings are acceptable but you want to avoid large leaks.
@@edwardjackson9791 well that definitely answers my question. I think videos like this are very important in the times we're living in. I don't think people realize just how close we are to a nuclear world war III
First the radiation is on the dust not in the air unless the dust is in the air. Also radiation is not a chemical, so you do not need the charcoal. All you need is the filter to keep the dust out. remember the radiation is on the dust and dirt. .
I agree the HPEA filter removes the bulk of the radioactive contamination. However, radiation is not on the dust. Rather radioactive isotopes can combine with dust but some doesn’t. The radiation comes from the radioactive isotopes which are chemicals. Although the charcoal will filter some of the particles, that is not the primary function of the charcoal. Some of the fission products of a nuclear detonation and even more from a nuclear power plant are fission product gases. The HEPA filter does not remove these gases. So one reason there is charcoal for a nuclear event is to hold the fission product gases until they decay to fission product particles which can then be captured by the HEPA filter. So the HEPA filter is the most important part but the charcoal makes it more effective. Also this filter is also designed from chemical and biological events. The design is the same.
Thanks for sharing this filtration idea.
You can make your own activated charcoal from hardwood bbq charcoal.
Radon is a gas that is radioactive.
Your shelter is blow ground where radon is known to naturally creep up through even concrete foundations. We’re getting from all sides!
@@ruidadgmailcanada8508 thanks for the reply. The activated charcoal I’ve seen made is questionable on it’s effectiveness. There maybe a way but I would want to be able to test it. I think I saw a good video on TH-cam where a chemist tried to make it but when testing it he found it wasn’t really very effective. So just be ware. Also we do get naturally occurring radioactive radon from the ground in many areas but this is a very long term exposure issue and the levels are very very low. The test for radon has you put a couple of absorption material in the basement and leave them for 90 days just to collect enough for the testing. In fact to reduce the levels in homes they will use a blower to take a suction from under the floor of the basement or crawl space and just vent it outside with no filters. If your sheltering due to an emergency the basement is typically but not always your safest area. Of course everyone has to evaluate their own situation.
@@ruidadgmailcanada8508 Activated charcoal requires a specific protocol, it is not cahrcoal from BBQ at all. Aquarrium pellets work fine against organic vapor, at least (tested agaisnt fumes from a burnt down industrial site)
@@edwardjackson9791 A team from an US university succeeded to make activated charcoal with low expense common items, for Latin low income polluted areas - aimed to filter the polluted water. Worked fine. agaisnt acid gases and other stuff, more difficult, components must be added ...
This is fantastic, thank you for putting this info out into the world!
My pleasure!
It's very good idea to add sort of prefilter at the top, that will stop all the dust. It will help keep your filter life longer.
Great tip!
I love the design of the pump. Couple thoughts/concerns. 1. Most people will not have electricity after a nuclear detonation so how do you plan to power it? 2. Would the benefit really be there? By pumping air pressure into the house in one location it seems like you could potentially cause additional inward suction of dust into the house if the pressure isn't equalized throughout the space. Seems like just not disturbing the air might be a safer option. 4. Assuming that you plan to hunker down for a couple weeks at least I would be a bit concerned that the noise of the unit could draw attention from looters who were not educated on how long they need to stay inside. Im not intending to poo poo the idea. I am just wondering if you have thought about these things.
I plan on making more detailed videos thanks for your questions I’ll try to quickly address them.
1. This is not just for nuclear attacks but is also good for nuclear power plant events and biological and chemical events. Also due to the design of the blower you can manually draw air through it with a manual bellows style air pump. This will also allow quiet operations if needed.
2. It would best be used in an area within the house that is sealed off so air flow would be to a room or two to maintain air quality in that area. If operated in manual mode you would just be able to replenish the air and manage the CO2 and humidity in your shelter area. A CO2 monitor would be very important.
I will post some new videos soon and hopefully touch on your question and others.
Just to let you know this is the basic design of NBC filters used at nuclear plant for protection of the control room and other areas for personnel protection. It has the same functional characteristics but at a rudimentary level.
Generator You can get them to run on gas propane and hook them up to solar panels I got one they're great,
Solar panels produce power from radiation so you you get a boost!! seriously solar panels to run it would need to have battery backup system to support it overnight or cloudy day's. The big problem with Solar panels is they do get dust covered and it seriously reduces input power. You would also need a reasonable inverter to run the motor as inductive loads on cheap inverters can cause failures. Use lithium batteries as they don't produce hydrogen from charging, you could put the lead acid ones outside but if you get a problem? positive pressure ventilation system is best and a basement would be good. I live in the mountains of Spain off grid on everything. I like the idea of the filter system. Thanks for your time and work.
@@barrymayson2492 Depends on how much you're willing to spend on solar panels, Cause my solar panels on a cloudy day draw 60% of what they would on a Sunny day, Severe rainstorms is another story, I got enough batteries to run my bunker for 7 days without any power, I I don't have hundreds of batteries, depends on how much you're willing to spend Is the quality you get,
And hope the power stays on. I like it.
You can hook up a manual bellows to the discharge of the blower and provide air flow manually. However, it will not keep your shelter area at a positive pressure long. It would provide filtered air for makeup though. I plan on a follow up video soon to discuss more detail on how to provide a safer protected area.
@@edwardjackson9791 I'm planning a very small filter/fan setup on 12v and hook it up on a solar panel and a battery. Just to provide clean air and overpressure in a small room or basement until they get the power back up.
@@denniskatinas that sounds good. If the 12Vdc works it would be good if you post some details. Good luck.
@@edwardjackson9791 Thank you, I will post the details when I got it to work.
This is a great design. Love the bucket. Thanks for this idea. I'm not worried about charcoal but use a 12v motor and place it INSIDE the bucket, with only the exhaust coming from the bucket - fewer areas to worry about sealing up on/around the motor. Also consider the type of fan as most blade fans don't do well under the load of filtering. Impeller fans do pretty good.
The HEPA filter for a nuclear even is very effective. The activated charcoal helps with fission product gases but also makes the design a chemical and biological filter. The activated charcoal adsorption of chemicals and biologicals helps clean up the incoming air. The air fan for this is a squirrel cage design and provides very high flow rates, actually I would have to block about 80% of the flow to allow for effective contact time as the air flows through the activated charcoal. That allows more contact time for the adsorption in the activated charcoal. Thanks for the feedback👍
Solar panels produce power from radiation so you you get a boost!! seriously solar panels to run it would need to have battery backup system to support it overnight or cloudy day's. The big problem with Solar panels is they do get dust covered and it seriously reduces input power. You would also need a reasonable inverter to run the motor as inductive loads on cheap inverters can cause failures. Use lithium batteries as they don't produce hydrogen from charging, you could put the lead acid ones outside but if you get a problem? positive pressure ventilation system is best and a basement would be good. I live in the mountains of Spain off grid on everything. I like the idea of the filter system. Thanks for your time and work.
You Will really needed a manual air mover as a last resort. Power would be nice but not always possible. I made a video on a simple hand operated air mover that could easily hooked to the discharge of the blower as could a dc blower. Positive pressure would be hard to maintain with a hand pump but at least you could control makeup air flow through the filter. Thanks for the comment.
This is great. You need more subs, my friend. Subscribed!
Thanks
Edward, could you also please explain the installation process in the shelter? Additionally, how does one use the system manually in the absence of light? Have you created any videos demonstrating these processes?
I have done other videos on what you asked about just look at the videos on my channel. But it would be best to install it outside the shelter I’m a protected area for example if your shelter is in the basement installing the filter in the garage would protect it and you would not have to exit the house if something needs adjusted. There are many ways to manually pull air through the filter. I did a video on one I built with a large PCV pipe and connections. Again if you look at my videos on my channel you can find them. I don’t have that many.
Awesome information. I wish i could see the inside of the charcoal filter.
Also at approx 8:20, whats a .25 inch of water pressure? Not sure if you mispoke (maybe mot, im utterly ignorant of this subject). Maybe something to do with positive air pressure?
Also, what percentage of the time would these need to run? I'm thinking at this level of emergency wed have to assume no power and wed be looking at car batteries and inverters or something.
Thanks again for the info! Liked/subscribed.
The .25 inch of water is a good pressure to make sure to don’t have unfiltered air in your safe space. If you keep the inside air pressure .25 inch of water above outside air pressure it will prevent in leakage. If you look at my channel I have another video covering just the filter. It has an orange bucket in the video. Also I did one on how to set it up and another on a cheap way to make a hand air pump. If you can’t manage a .25 inch of water you can just try to only bring air in through a filter so all make up air is filtered. Thanks for the comment.
@edwardjackson9791 Thanks for the response and great info on your channel. Subscribed.
Just to clarify a common misunderstanding about nuclear contamination. The air itself is perfectly safe. It's the DUST and particles floating on the air that are dangerous.
If you see heavy fallout particles on the ground, but the air is clear, then it's perfectly safe to breathe the air without a filter as long as you don't disturb the dust on the ground, or there's no wind kicking it up.
The risk is when the "lighter" smaller particules fall or hang in the air. These are actually so small that even if you do inhale them, lifetime exposure is fairly low, only about 2 rads. Of course, it's better to NOT inhale them at all, but treating the air like literal poison is a big inconvenience and can do you more harm than good if for example you need to move out of an area due to heavy ground fallout, but you are too scared to move thinking the air is dangerous.
The filter in the video will work, of course, but most of the time it will be un-necessary unless there's heavy wind and lots of airborne dust.
For a nuclear detonation like a bomb you are for the most part correct. For a nuclear power plant there will be much more fission product gases which will be the big portion of the exposure. The hepa filter is the part that removes most of the dust. The activated charcoal the gases. So for a nuclear attack where you are trying to survive then exposure of
@@edwardjackson9791 of course the filter itself is very effective from the looks of it. And if there is a chemical or radiological reak the charcoal will help.
2 Rads IS NOT a trivial dose. It won't kill you dead immediately, maybe not before something else gets a chance to, but the whole idea behind survivalism is to have the best chance to survive that you have. Obviously a 2 rad dose in an area that gets 3, 4, 500 rads is going to help you a lot. But if you're in an area that takes a direct hit you might be better off getting smoked immediately because there won't be any help coming to save you.
This is a really great idea. One question please: If there is nuclear fallout it will accumulate on ground. So having that bucket sit on the ground is going to expose you to those accumulated radioactive particles more. Wouldn't it be better to set that bucket a few feet off the ground to avoid that situation?
Yes but inside an enclosure like a garage would really help. An elevated position is a good idea also if you have to have it outside. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you, I think this gives the drier vent a dual purpose.
😁👍
Good idea! And if not, you pointed out an outside vent that I need to put on my list to seal.
do you not want the inlet and outlet switched so the filter stays indoors to keep out sound and then have the inlet on a hose so you can more discreetly route it? others will hear your filter and come wanting it
You could but that would place the filter inside closer to you and that would expose you to more radiation from the filter. There are many ways to position the filter you just have to think through the consequences. Thanks for the comment.
I would like to see a video on adding manual bellows if that's feasible for you to do. Also, considering that I have very little idea of how any of this works-- I am only learning through your demonstration, could you explain the last portion of this video when you talk about water? Thank you so much! Great video.
Thank you for the comment. If you look at my channel I build a simple air pump with 6 inch pvc drain pipe which can be used basically as a bellows. The water I talk about is a measure of differential pressure normally used on HVAC systems. If you have a filter for example and measure the pressure difference from one side to the other it is in inches of water. So if you take a clear piece of tubing and make a loop (like a p trap under a sink) in it and connect it to the inlet and outlet of the filter then water when air flow goes through the filter the water in the tube will displace based on the inlet and outlet pressure. If you measure the difference in the water level with a ruler it gives you the inch of water. There are plenty of TH-cam videos. Here is one.
th-cam.com/video/DdK8g5X_XAo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LMQJuRvbp7HkEekM
Won’t that shop vac motor pull too fast? Would it be okay to put a variable speed switch on it? Also, how will it be powered in a SHTF situation?
The fan I used was not a shop vac but that could be used. The full flow would likely be way too much. The air needs to be in contact with the activated charcoal for about .25 seconds or more so you can throttle the discharge to reduce the flow. I used an old squirrel cage fan from an old gas furnace. If you look at the other videos on my channel I cover manual operation and some design ideas. The good part of the squirrel cage design is there is little resistance to air flow and if you need the manually operate a air pump it is much easier to pump air through. Thanks for the questions.
Could you make a video on how to go from the electric blower to the manual air pump you made? I would love to see them work either in tandem or having the manual used as a backup system. I am thinking of making my own system and seeing yours helped me come up with ideas. Maybe a smoke test or practical application would be neat to see as well 😊 awesome work.
If your fan/blower has an open impeller design like a squirrel cage or propeller type you can just draw the air flow through the blower. So all you need to do is attach a non-collapsible hose to the exhaust of the blower to the suction of your manual air pump. You will want to insure there are no leaks between the manual air pump and the electric blower so you are not drawing in contaminated air bypassing the filter. I may be able to put together a simple test.
Very well done. I was looking for a filter, which seems about the right time if not too late, and I was not able to find anything to my liking other than binding an NBC gasmask cartridge filter to a bilge blower, but that's so small and all. This is pretty great, I might give this a try. Did you have any other ideas before starting on this system? Thanks!
Yes I was going to do another video and update the filter. I took the hepa filter and turned it upside down and glued it to the outlet of the charcoal filter. This has backward air flow through the hepa but it will not really change the filtering. It makes the filter elements fit in a 5 gal bucket and is easier to change out filters if needed. The parts are all the same but it is much easier to build. It allows more flexibility in the way you provide the air flow. The blower I used was 120 Vac but you will probably need some form of manual air movement like a bellows arrangement. Removing the hepa filter from the lid makes this much easier.
@@edwardjackson9791 I can see the advantage of that, on the other side, the activated charcoal, I'll have more to say on that in your new video, is there to catch the rare radioactive gasses released from the radioactive material from what I understood while the hepa does the filtering. So if you follow that reasoning, you want some charcoal on both sides of the hepa (hepa 14 or 13), but at least after the hepa. The Hepa catches the fall out material and the charcoal absorbs the gasses released from the radioactive material that is stuck in the hepa. So you need to charcoal the air after the hepa. I would also have charcoal on the other side just for when you shut off the filter to replace it, the charcoal on both sides will keep absorbing the gasses to some degree while you expose of the unit. I'll report some more findings at your new video when I find the time.
@@denniskatinas this is the design used at nuclear plants as far as order of filtering. The ones at the nuclear plants are much more complex which makes them much more efficient. But the actual process is the same. Fission releases fission product gases in a predictable pattern. The gases pass through the hepa filter and are not trapped because they are gas and not particles. The inlet filter sometimes are hepa filters to capture particles before the activated charcoal bed. The gases that enter the activated charcoal beds are held up due to the enormous surface area of the charcoal. This causes the fission product gases to take a very long time to work their way through the charcoal bed. During this long time period the fission product gases decay into fission particles. The particles that exit the charcoal bed are then captured buy the exhaust hepa filter that can now capture and hold them. The inlet filter on some units are hepa and some they are not. They key is to have a hepa filter after the charcoal bed for maximum effectiveness. But that being said there is no reason you could not put filters in series for added filtering. This design is by no means perfect but will help a bad situation be not as bad.
@@edwardjackson9791 Thanks for the feedback, you bring up some interesting points here, I may have made the mistake of believing the gasses en particles pass through the filter at the same speed as the air does. The gases breaking down into particles was also unknown to me. I was planning to have multiple hepa's in series, just to be sure. Also, the charcoal is another point for me, activated charcoal used in nuclear plants is treated with ZincChloride and heated to catch way more particles and gasses, you're everyday household charcoal isn't as effective, actually, the difference is big, so I think I'll go with bigger charcoal beds just in case, since making the ZnCl2 treated charcoal is tricky to make and get right. Well, back to the drawing board, thanks again.
My bilge blower runs 130 cfm, that's pretty substantial for the small space I am working with. It would be adequate to exchange the air in my shelter completely about every 10 minutes. And it's fairly quiet.
I will try it. I'm gonna put it in a room full of tear gas and connect a hose going outside and test the fresh air side to get an idea how well it will work and how often the charcoal will need replacing after contamination.
Sounds good. One thing is make sure your flow rate is low, just enough that would keep the area you would be in to about 0.25 inches of water above outside air pressure. The contaminated air needs to be in contact with the activated charcoal for at least 1/4 of a second to remove the contamination. So, too high of flow rate would not allow the contact time needed. Thanks for the comment.
to avoid the lack of electricity you make a generator with neodymium magnets ( I show how a transformed car alternator works on my channel ) moved by a bicycle to be able to charge the batteries in relation to the filter to avoid any air pollution before the filter that you present here you have to pass the air through water for example; How do you oxygenate water in aquariums? the water itself filters the air from the radiation in the dust and after this process put this filter
The water will filter some but the fission product gases will pass right through and a percentage of the small particles also. It also will add a good deal of back pressure to overcome.
Could you use a shop vacuum for a in-line charcoal filter on the on-take side? A secondary filter could be attached to the outlet tube. Also a pre-filter before the charcoal filter made to be changed readily! I would think that placing your filter outside after a NBC event would open up you and your shelter to contaminates. I'm assuming that you're planning on being in a bunker of some sort since most houses are far from being air tight, perhaps having a long horizontal (4"+ diameter) PVC pipe (or two) with a 180 degree elbow at the top end with a wire filter to block out larger particles. Perhaps a water trap could be incorporated into the system before the vacuum cleaner. I don't know if a hand crank could be attached to the top of the vacuum motor for manual turning!
There are many ways to make the filter so a vacuum could be used. The important design though is that the contaminated air all goes through the filter elements and there is no bypass flow. A pre filter is a good idea and I call that a roughing filter. Having the filter outside of you bunker or safe area is important in that the filter my become a radiation source because the contaminated material will concentrate in the filter. It can be located inside the house but away from your safe area, like in the garage. The filters used at nuclear plants don’t us a water filter because they are ineffective for gases and introduce a large differential pressure that has to be overcome by the fan or blower.
Problem is your filter will be radioactive. Can't change it without getting fatal dose of radiation. If your filter is in doors near you, then you gotta shield yourself from the filter or housing.
Every filter will be radioactive if used to filter radioactive fallout. This type of filter will probably not need to be changed out for a single event. It should last for several weeks or months. Yes you need to have it far away, like outside or very well shielded if inside. If the filter adsorbs radioactive contamination that could give you a lethal dose when changing it you probably have already received a lethal dose from the event. You must remember the filter is decaying just like the radioactive fallout. It is a fairly rapid decay. So the filter will last several weeks and changing will be unlikely and if it is needed a lethal dose is not a real possibility again unless the contamination radiation levels were so high that you would have already received a lethal dose from fallout itself. Thanks for the comment.
Question. When you are isolating from the blast. Would you run this device all the time? And how long will it run before you have to change the hepa filter or the charcoal? Thanks.
If you have power which is unlikely you run it to maintain about .25 inch water pressure in your shelter if you can. This would be ideal. However, you are not likely to have power. Then you just make sure as much as possible that the makeup air you draw in (like via a mechanical bellows) comes through the filter. As for the time it will last, as long as you are able to draw air through it, the filter should be good, “If” you have it where it is not drawing in very dirty air (like an elevated area or have a good pre filter) it should last for weeks. The one we used at our nuclear plant for our control room building was designed for at last 30 days and the filter and carbon would probably fit inside a 55 gallon drum and they were designed for continuous flow. They also were designed to maintain a .25 inch water pressure in the control building. Thanks for the comment and questions.👍
I'm going to try something like this. I was able to get some free buckets from a local restaurant, they're square but I don't see what difference that will make. There's no way I am going to try to use a shop-vac motor though, that is too loud and obnoxious. I'm going to use a 12v inline bilge blower for a boat and solar panels for the electricity. I've got most of what I need except for exhaust hose because my plan is to take outside air from a protected location, run it through my shelter and have it flow back outside so I am not drawing in radioactivity into my home.
Good idea. The shape of the bucket or container really doesn’t matter as long as you don’t have leakage past the filter media. The only requirement for flow rate is it provides enough makeup to supply your shelter with makeup O2. The air flow should be in contact with the activated charcoal flow >0.25 seconds. So slow flow is better if it provides the correct amount of makeup O2. I bought a CO2 monitor to check the air in our area.
Where would you position you device to filter the air?
Best place is outside under cover but inside like a garage would work. You just have to realize it will be drawing contamination inside the area you put it. Also away from people. The filter itself may become radioactive as it filters and present a radiation hazard. Thanks for the question 👍
That will consume high wattage..if fallout comes so does the grid..if thru offgrid power 80 to 100 watt i prefer
Yes I know but the filter is an NBC filter and could be used when the grid is still available. I did a video of a manual air pump that could be connected to the discharge of the blower and would be able to pull air through the blower. You could also use a dc powered blower. I also did a video diagraming a way to set it up to supply your shelter. Thanks for your comment.👍
Your entire contraption has to be in the contaminated environment. Your intake needs to come from a distance so you’re not handling contaminated hardware when you have to reseal or repair.
Correct. The filter should be in an area that is outside the bunker and will likely be in the contaminated area. The filter will become a radiation source as it filters the radioactive material. So, you have to preplan how to handle it before you place it. It would be best to have it under cover from the elements but in a location you can stay away from until you are ready to move it to a more secure location following the event.
Do you need to wash the activated charcoal before use
No.
How are you going to make this work after an EMP that was caused by the device that caused the radiation?
You will need a manual air pump for that. I did a video on one but there are several different designs.
Not a bad idea but how are you going to run this if there is no electricity?
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The blower is open and a manual bellows can be attached to the discharge. Manual operation can be used to draw air through the filter and provided. Not all events will have a grid down scenario. The design was to show the concept. Implementation will be dependent on actual conditions.
off grid generation
from where the energy power after nuclear explosions?
Not all nuclear events will have a loss of power. Nuclear power plant events can occur without the loss of the grid. However, the design allows you to connect a manual operated air pump if needed. I made a video on a simple manual air pump that can use for air flow. Also if you have a dc power source you can connect dc powered blowers to the discharge of the blower. My intent was to show a design that could be made in expensively. I looked up the current price of a “safe cell” NBC filter which are functionally the same and they run around $4000 and were out of stock.
Ive asked around and no one sells Hee pa filter only HEPA filters. lol
😂 yea I’ve worked in the nuclear field for years and you just get use to the terminology and forget it is not something people use all the time.
Still a bit difficult to build from what you could display or didn’t show. But thanks 🙏 anyway
I did another video on building the activated charcoal filter which adds some detail. The import thing is to build it so there is no bypass flow around the filter elements and the fan has no holes that would allow unfiltered air to be drawn into the fan without going through the filters. Thanks for the comment.
ROFLMAO…… I’ll go outside with a catchers mitt and wait…
Not likely anything lives…
Not quite sure what you mean, but going outside would not be the best idea. Unless you are within a couple of miles of a nuclear detonation you are likely to survive by sheltering and controlling the makeup air you bring into you living area. Within 48 hours outside radiation levels will not be immediate life threatening. Nuclear detonations are really a local event and radiation levels drop rapidly. There is much less long lived radioactive isotopes produced during a nuclear detonation than a power plant event due the smaller mass that becomes irradiated.
Even during a nuclear plant event like Fukushima sheltering will protect you. Long term there may be issues but the less exposure you get the better.
Leaving the area is not likely during a nuclear detonation and depending on the area it may not be possible during a nuclear plant event, depending on traffic and lead time from notification.
@@edwardjackson9791 uh. Like duh.. I lived through this sh1t once..hide under desks. All that.... now at my age .. no biggie . Rather it be quick
I understand the ingenuity. but if a nuclear bomb goes off the radiation is not only in the dust that will be traveling in the wind. It is also attached to atoms that are floating around which are microscopic that will pass through your filters. The best thing to do is to take iodine liquid drops to fill up your thyroid because you will be in contact with radiation no matter what The question is how much ..so on a microscopical scale your air filter is useless
Yes some radioactive will pass through the filter. No filter is 100% effective. The point of a filter is to reduce the radioactivity you receive to a level that is not unacceptably high. Radiation does not attach to atoms it is the property of the atom itself. The decay of a particular atomic isotope is where the ionizing radiation comes from. (i.e. Beta decay, Alpha Decay, or gamma decay) The way these type filters work is the activated charcoal has a massive surface area (small pours which trap the atoms for a time, then the atom may escape only to be trapped in another pour) This holdup time allows the atoms to decay to stable atoms which are no longer radioactive or to become radioactive particles. HEPA filters will not trap gases, that is why the charcoal is first. The fission product gases are trapped in the charcoal long enough to decay to particulates which can be trapped by the HEPA filter.
As far as iodine is concerned, this is a big misconception. Yes, radioactive iodine is a fission produce but it is only one of many. The thyroid does take up iodine and it helps to saturate your system with none radioactive iodine to help prevent up taking radioactive iodine into your thyroid but it is only recommended for people less than 40 years old. It is a long term issue. There are many other fission products produced other than iodine.
This filter design is the design used at nuclear power plants to maintain habitability of critical areas like the Control Room, Reactor Building, and Emergency Command and Control facilities. Although those systems are more sophisticated in design and function, the process is the same. Use activated charcoal to hold up the radioactive atoms until they decay into particulate or stable atoms and HEPA filter to remove particulates.
This issuance of KI (potassium Iodine) is way, way down on the emergency procedures at nuclear plants.
I'd look into under which scenarios Iodine is usefull....
@@edwardjackson9791 Charcoal = Protection agaisnt subproducts of the blast and fires, as toxic fumes, soot, VOC etc. Lot of toxic chemicals in our modern environment. A french engineer from a facility designing pro shelters for industry, administration (and wealthy individual) explained me why.
It's more than I got but I'm afraid you're going to need 2 hold your breath homeboy are you going to die
Thanks for the comment. Not sure your thought process though 🤔
Can't hear you mumbling
I’m not sure what you’re saying there? Are you saying you can’t hear me mumbling or because I’m mumbling you can understand, or can’t hear me because someone is mumbling too loud? Appreciate the feedback but not sure what to fix.
How do you know it'll work?
If you look up the design of NBC (Nuclear, Chemical, Biological) filters. This is the process that is used. This is the same design we used at nuclear power plants for our emergency filter systems in the event of an event. The control room, reactor building, emergency command and control center each had a filter system designed like this, of course those cost hundreds of thousands of dollars but the process was the same. Based on specific design requirements there were some variations like some would have Hepa-charcoal-hepa but others were just like this. The key in building your on is to make sure that you have no leakage paths from the filter to the suction of your air pump (electric or manual) if you are not drawing the air through your filter you can suck in contaminated air bypassing the filter. Minor air leaks like around bearings are acceptable but you want to avoid large leaks.
@@edwardjackson9791 well that definitely answers my question. I think videos like this are very important in the times we're living in. I don't think people realize just how close we are to a nuclear world war III