Not sure which model you are asking about, but Honda used the same petcock across many different models for many years so I would expect that if your original looks like one of these it will be the same. Good luck.
That would have made a better end, but sometimes you just don't shoot everything. If you look at one of the later vidos , the JB Weld one, I had a little leak form a pinhole behind the badges. The cap and petcock sealed up fine.
Can you explain/show how to route the fuel lines to the carbs? I had an old petcock (which is now replaced) on mine with the 2nd line closed off and I'm not sure how to best do it.
That is a great question. TBH I feel like I have never done it the same way twice on the CB750s I have had. I do know that it can be fiddly, also the front hole in the petcock never seems to flow as freely as the back one, but doesn't seem to cause a problem. I believe that the best way is to try to make sure that there are no hanging loops in the line, so that gravity is pushing the fuel towards the float chambers all of the time. I have tried for this, but in making sure the lines are not touching the fins on the head or getting caught in the carburettor mechanism it isn't easy to achieve. Sorry I can't give you a difinitive answer. Maybe when I get to this stage with my Cafe Racer build I might try to show a bit more of it, assuming that what I do works out. Good luck.
Thanks for your encouragement. I haven't come across a lockable oil cap, but I take your point. But we might not need to lock our oil up if we can't afford to buy it, which looks like it may be soon :)
It isn't as slick as an original one. You have to press the cap down then the hook to release it. The one on my K0 would just pop up when you pressed the hook down. I actually think it is more secure with the new one, but not as satisfying to open :)
On my petcock. I font have a return nipple, whatever the brass fitting is that the fuel lines go onto. Is there a way i can add one, or would it be better to buy a new petcock with 2 of the brass nipples?
It all depends on where you are and what you decide to look for. An original Sandcast tank, in good condition could be very expensive. However a solid CB tank, which might need cleaning, painting and sealing could be quite cheap. I would expect to pay £150 or so for something useable, but that would be in the UK>
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Well done. Thank you! Helped me a lot.
Glad it helped!
Can't wait to see you ride it!!
Feels imminent now, a bit of tarting around with the advance mechanism to round off and I'll be filming a ride vid. :)
Very helpful and nicely done. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Lovely stuff, glad it wasnt just me that found the cap a bit of a swine to fit! Keep em coming mate
Thanks Roo, the cap is certainly a pain :)
Rock on and thanks!
Cheers Cotton!
Good explanation, thanks
You're welcome, I am pleased if seeing what I get upto helps others.
Great work.
Would replacing the old petcock of a CBFour be the same (leaving aside for some reason it is placed on the left side of the tank)
Not sure which model you are asking about, but Honda used the same petcock across many different models for many years so I would expect that if your original looks like one of these it will be the same. Good luck.
@@SPANNERRASH thanks. It is a k 1972
Sad to see you not put fuel in it. Thanks for the videos.
That would have made a better end, but sometimes you just don't shoot everything. If you look at one of the later vidos , the JB Weld one, I had a little leak form a pinhole behind the badges. The cap and petcock sealed up fine.
Can you explain/show how to route the fuel lines to the carbs? I had an old petcock (which is now replaced) on mine with the 2nd line closed off and I'm not sure how to best do it.
That is a great question. TBH I feel like I have never done it the same way twice on the CB750s I have had. I do know that it can be fiddly, also the front hole in the petcock never seems to flow as freely as the back one, but doesn't seem to cause a problem. I believe that the best way is to try to make sure that there are no hanging loops in the line, so that gravity is pushing the fuel towards the float chambers all of the time. I have tried for this, but in making sure the lines are not touching the fins on the head or getting caught in the carburettor mechanism it isn't easy to achieve. Sorry I can't give you a difinitive answer. Maybe when I get to this stage with my Cafe Racer build I might try to show a bit more of it, assuming that what I do works out. Good luck.
Thanks - and good luck!
Hi great info as usual. Do you know if there is a lockable oil cap . I think it would be a good idea nowadays .
Thanks for your encouragement. I haven't come across a lockable oil cap, but I take your point. But we might not need to lock our oil up if we can't afford to buy it, which looks like it may be soon :)
@@SPANNERRASH
That is so true . You would think there would be a lockable cap of something that would fit . Cheers
Newer models like my K6 have a "false lock". It looks like it requires a key, but any key, even a flat tip driver will open them.
Mine wouldn't release after I fitted it, so was hoping you'd test it before fiddling with the spring. But it went well 😎👍
It isn't as slick as an original one. You have to press the cap down then the hook to release it. The one on my K0 would just pop up when you pressed the hook down. I actually think it is more secure with the new one, but not as satisfying to open :)
Nicely done! Is there a bolt or something through that rear rubber to hold the tank in?
No, it just goes through the rubber and is held in place. Seems to work OK. But I wonder if there would be an issue in a heavy accident.
On my petcock. I font have a return nipple, whatever the brass fitting is that the fuel lines go onto.
Is there a way i can add one, or would it be better to buy a new petcock with 2 of the brass nipples?
The tubes/nipples just push in so if you had the right tube you could replace it. But I suspect it would be a lot easier just to buy another.
sir what is the cost of this spare tank
It all depends on where you are and what you decide to look for. An original Sandcast tank, in good condition could be very expensive. However a solid CB tank, which might need cleaning, painting and sealing could be quite cheap. I would expect to pay £150 or so for something useable, but that would be in the UK>