Learn how to build a nesting house for native mason bees in this DIY video with Audubon Rockies Community Naturalist Keith Bruno. See part 1: • How to Build a Mason B...
Thanks! Keith bought mason bee cocoons from Crown Bee and released them by sliding the box into the uppermost portion of the nesting structure, slightly ajar). The bees are mailed just as they are starting to emerge from their cocoons and some should take up residence in your nesting structure.
Thank you for doing this video tho. I moved on to farm land almost three years ago. This year was my crash course in Carpenter bees. I don’t want to kill them. Many people don’t know how great of Pollinators these guys are. Now with that said these old barns here wouldn’t take another year of these guys drilling. My question is would I need more than one house. After a few years how would their population look? Would I need to add a house every year? I’m asking bc I seen a great increase from this year to last year (didn’t know anything about these guys at that time. ). I got to get on the ball and get this house/ hotel done for these guys. My landlord (also my kids grandpa on her dads side wants them going and he does care how they get gone.
Hi Jennifer, we have limited experience specifically with targeting carpenter bees in solitary bee houses, but here's our best advice: 1. Pay attention to the size opening of the holes/nesting reeds; make sure they're 1/2" at minimum, as carpenter bees are bigger than masons and other solitary bees. If attracting to a bee house, use building materials and interior blocks of unpainted, raw, untreated wood (cedar, redwood, etc.). 2. Research appropriate plants and provide desirable native plants for the carpenter bees to source their pollen and nectar from; perhaps consider setting up multiple solitary bee house complexes and planting this accompanying native plant garden AWAY from the barns that are being perforated with their inclinations); you may be able to coax the bees' interest elsewhere.
The big question would surround the size of your used birdhouses. Solitary bees typically seek out (whether in nature or artificially) a nesting cavity/reed/stem that has 6+ inches of depth. If you can fit that kind of depth into your birdhouse and still keep the ends of the reeds covered out of the dripline and protected from the rain (roof length), then we think you could use it. But, if the reeds will get wet or sun-blasted, then we would consider either alteration or starting over.
Great video! What does "releasing the bees" mean/look like? I'm not sure about that part. Thanks!
Thanks! Keith bought mason bee cocoons from Crown Bee and released them by sliding the box into the uppermost portion of the nesting structure, slightly ajar). The bees are mailed just as they are starting to emerge from their cocoons and some should take up residence in your nesting structure.
Thank you for doing this video tho. I moved on to farm land almost three years ago. This year was my crash course in Carpenter bees. I don’t want to kill them. Many people don’t know how great of Pollinators these guys are. Now with that said these old barns here wouldn’t take another year of these guys drilling. My question is would I need more than one house. After a few years how would their population look? Would I need to add a house every year? I’m asking bc I seen a great increase from this year to last year (didn’t know anything about these guys at that time. ). I got to get on the ball and get this house/ hotel done for these guys. My landlord (also my kids grandpa on her dads side wants them going and he does care how they get gone.
Hi Jennifer, we have limited experience specifically with targeting carpenter bees in solitary bee houses, but here's our best advice:
1. Pay attention to the size opening of the holes/nesting reeds; make sure they're 1/2" at minimum, as carpenter bees are bigger than masons and other solitary bees. If attracting to a bee house, use building materials and interior blocks of unpainted, raw, untreated wood (cedar, redwood, etc.).
2. Research appropriate plants and provide desirable native plants for the carpenter bees to source their pollen and nectar from; perhaps consider setting up multiple solitary bee house complexes and planting this accompanying native plant garden AWAY from the barns that are being perforated with their inclinations); you may be able to coax the bees' interest elsewhere.
Leafcutters use 5-6mm hole nest. Mason bees - 7-8mm hole!
Great video. The simple design is fantastic. What nesting reeds did you use?
Keith ordered the reeds from Crown Bee. He thinks they use Phragmites stems from invasive plant removal.
Nice couple of videos, thanks.
Do you have problems with birds eating the front-most eggs/larvae?
Nope!
Can I just put the reeds in the hole of an old birdhouse? I have several of them and want to put them in my garden. Where do you get the reeds???
The big question would surround the size of your used birdhouses. Solitary bees typically seek out (whether in nature or artificially) a nesting cavity/reed/stem that has 6+ inches of depth. If you can fit that kind of depth into your birdhouse and still keep the ends of the reeds covered out of the dripline and protected from the rain (roof length), then we think you could use it. But, if the reeds will get wet or sun-blasted, then we would consider either alteration or starting over.